6
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, ' PORTLAM), OCTOBER 21. 1917..
WEEK'S SNAPPY WEATHER REMINDS MADAME
AND MADEMOISELLE FUR-COAT TIME IS HERE
Fur Woven Swiss Velour Coat Will Be Appreciated When Mercury Drops a Little Farther and Fur Sets Are
IS'ot to Be Despised Now, With It in Forties.
PREPARATION'S are already . under
. way for the warm clothes that will
be necessary when biting: days of
"Winter get here. This street coat, de
signed for Winter use, will be a warm
garment indeed when the mercury in
the thermometer starts trying to crawl
out of the bottom of the tube. It is
made of black Kurwovc Swiss velour
coating, with a large collar and loose
panels on the sides. The trimming of
the panels, cuffs, collar and belt arc of
furwove moleskin bands.
An exquisitely pretty four-piece set
that will surely make all the fashion
able young misses wish for is shown
above. The set, hat, neckpiece, muff
and ba?, match perfectly and are all
made of Persian satin, giving it the
Oriental touch, and trimmed with seal
ptripings on the edges of each piece.
The lining is of gold.
-
Ail of the fair sex who look at huge
fur coats, fur neckpieces and muffs and
despair at their not being able to pur
chase such expensive articles are in
for a great surprise and a pleasing one.
The latest designed "fur pieces" are
altogether just . as pretty, perhaps not
as warm, but very few women wear
furs for the warmth they give, and
Vleir cost is negligible in comparison
-ith the cost of the real thing. The
?et shown in the 'picture is made of
Ispahan ribbon trimmed at the edges
and with bands of fur running through.
The stole, muff, haf and even the purse
are made of the same materials in the
same way.
The decidedly pretty effect is un
mistakable and the set will surely win
popular favor with the. younger set.
for. Traveler.
Make a list of things in the trunk and
their location.
Every delicate garment should be
wrapped separately.
For this towels, or sheets of tissue
paper will serve, but they should be
pinned into place.
Folds of newspapers should be placed
between the layers of the mpre perish
able things.
The newspaper is very good, because
It Is so unyielding that wrinkles and
r.umps cannot dent it enough to mark
the fabrics 'beneath.
It Is useless to try to keep all the
heavy things at the bottom, the light
ones at the lop. The trunk will prob
ably be stood on end or upside down
half of the time.
All one-can do is to keep a smooth,
even surface for each layer.
Newspapers are better than anything
else for stuffing out bows and sleeves.
Tie in bottle corks well and put the
bottle in the middle of compartments,
nd, if packed solidly, they will carry
11 around therworld.
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Auction Bridge
By Aanie Blanche Shelby.
AC. SIcClurg Jb Co., of Chicago.
. the publishers of Charles Em
met Coffin's late work, "The
Oist of Auction Bridge," have-issued a
leaflet in connection with the work
containing' a series of "Auction. Bridge
lont'B'." They are, so pertinent to the
average player that I herewith give
them:
"Don't read 'The Gist of Auction
Bridge' unless you want to learn and
play the scientific system.
"Don't play the 'guessing game. Get
out of the 'bumble-puppy class.
"Don't fail to read the books as well
as play. Both are essential in learn
ing the real game.
"Don't talk shop or discuss outside
matters after the deal is completed.
Play the game.
"Don't" pick, up a 'card during the
deal. It annoys the dealer and costs
you -2n points.
"Don't make foolish bids. Stay , out
until you have a proper declaration.
"Don't use mannerisms, such as un
due hesitation or undue haste. nor
play a card in a specially impressive
way.'
"Don't play a card and gather the
trick in a way that hides your card.
All cards must be played in full view
and quitted.
"Don't draw a card from your hand
until it ' is' your time to play. 'Good
Dlayers do not even touch, a card until
it is their time to play."
Mr. Coffin. In answer to the Inquiry,
why. after having written so success
fully on whist, he contributed noth
ing to bridge literature, but finally
came out with a work on auction
bridge, made the following reply: "I
did not like bridge. It encroached too
much on whist without possessing any
of the merits of whist, and I did not
become interested In it. When the auc
tion .features were added there seemed
to be room, for more skill and In
dividual judgment, and so I fell in
with the domestic crowd and enjoyed
it. But the careless and indifferent
manner in which most would-be play
ers played at the game made me some
what weary and I was driven, to write
a book in self-defense. The thing now
Is to get the Indifferent player to
read it or to read and digest any
good book on the subject."
Leads Are Misunderstood.
Mr. Coffin holds large . interest In
the Indianapolis Star, .of which paper
Ernest Bross, at one time prominently
associated with The Oregonlan and
well known to Portlanders, is ..editor.
Notwithstanding that there are def
inite rules to guide one on the subject,
many players seemingly fall to grasp
the difference between opening leads
at a no trump and at a trump declara
tion. The difference la in reality very
marked and the reason for it Is pl&4n.
At no trumps the declarer has deprived
himself of the ability to trump a ault,
and one suit is as good as another so
far as trick-taking preperties are con
cerned. All a player haa to do in order
to take tricks is to get his suit estab
lished, then regain the lead and: run
the suit.
At a trump declaration. . the trump
suit of necessity possesses a trick
taking value in excess of that 'of all
other suits, and as the player naming
the suit hafl usually more than the
average number of the suit, he Is gen
erally more or less short In other suits
and these suits are liable to be
trumped. As a rule, therefore. It is
folly for the adversary to try to es
tablish a suit as at no trumps, and
in the effprt to do so to hold back
high or commanding cards. Rather.
his effort should be to make his high
or commanding cards early, to play
a forward game and take all the tricks
possible before Xhe declarer gets In
the lead.
Opening Lendu Important.
As has been often stated, there is
no better suit to open at a declared
trump than a suit which contains both
ace and king. It matters not whether
the suit be long i or short. If long,
there is all the more reason for the
lead, as otherwise the 'declarer may
discard what cards he holds of the suit
and both ace and king fail to make.
When leading, from this combination.
lead always the king, unless It so hap
pen that you hold the ace-king only.
Then reverse the order. Lead ace and
follow with king. You thus show your
partner that you hold no more of the
suit and request hi mto lead It as
soon as he obtains a lead, in order that
you may make one of your trumps.
This is on the assumption that the de
clarer has not himself been in the lead
and had one or more rounds of trumps,
when, generally, your trumps are ex
hausted.
When, the lead is from ace, king and
one or more other cards, lead king
and follow with ace. This enables
your partner to read that you still
hold one or more cards of the suit.
but not the queen. If you held the
queen as well, your follow snouia ue
queen rather than ace, to enable your
partner to place the queen. The fact
that your king held the trick In the
first instance should be proof positive
to him that you also hold ace, he him
self not holding it.
When, however, you have not an
ace-king combination, but both you
and your partner have shown a suit,
the adversary to your right finally se
curing the bid. It is often a question
which Is the better suit to open, your
own or your partner's. Generally, un
less you hold the combination alluded
to, or it is likely your suit may be
established in one round, the better
opening, especially if it be a trump
declaration, is your partner's suit. At
a trump there Is always the danger
that you are leading up a declared
stopper in the hand of the declarant.
When leading your partner's suit, lead
the highest you hold of the suit, to
enable him 'to infer as to the special
distribution.
A singleton lead at a declared trump
is often a good lead, especially if you
have it in your power to stop a trump
lead before you are exhausted of
trumps, and, more than ever, if the
single card in your hand stands for
your partner's suit. Even so. think
twice before making such lead if you
hold an ace-king . combination in your
hand.
Dad Example Illustrated.
The following, played "in duplicate,
illustrates an error In opening, which
cost the leader 141 points:
V
K J 10 6 4 2
2
A Q 8 6
I
KQJI C 2
A Q 8 i
J 10 7
3
10 9 3
3
A K 6 5 4
10 9 4 2
Z. the dealer, started with a dia
mond (not a sound bid). I overcalled
with "two clubs." and B with "two
hearts." B secured the bid. The play
went as follows:
A 7 5 Y
8 7 5 A B
Q 8 3 . Z
K J 7 6
Trick. A Y B Z
1 6 K A 3
2 A 4 2 3
3 7 2 J 9
4 5 5 J ll
6 3 2 J K
6 6 Q 3 2
7 7 J Q 44
8 84 94 104" A4
9 7 . A 6 4
10 Q 8 74 5
11 K 4 8 9
12 J 6 8 10
13 9 10 KW 64
Denotes winner of trick.
B makes four by cards, which, with
32 for honors and 125 for game, gives a
net score of 189.
Now for the hand as correctly
played by all: .
Trick.
I
I
1 3 94 7 K
2 84 24 104 A4
3 Q4 J4 4
4 5 10 Q 3
5 A 2 2 3
6 B 5 J 9
7 7 4 K 10
8 7 6 A 2
9 9 J 8 B4
10 6 A 3 4
11 7 K S 64
12 J 8 8 9
13 K Q Q 10
Denotes winner of trick.
B makes two by cards, or 16. which,
with 32 for honors, gives a score of 48.
Trick 1 Z correctly 'leads his own
suit rather than his partner's. He is
desirous at once of making his two
commanding cards. Moreover, he has
reason to think his partner is short in
the suft and may soon be in position
to trump.
Trick 2 Y, having played to the
first round a higher and then a smaller
card of the suit, has made an echo,
saying he has no more of the suit and
can trump the third round.
Trick 3 Z, therefore, continues with
a small diamond, Y taking the trick
with a trump.
Trick 4 Y opens his suit (clubs). B
taking trick with the queen.
Tricks 5, 6 and 7 B has three rounds
ELABORATE AFTERNOON GOWN OF PLUM SATIN
SUITABLE FOR ANY BUT MOST FORMAL AFFAIR
Evening Gown Is Designed for Stout Woman. Accordinj to New Method. Producing Effect of Sh;nderness.
Simple Creation of Peach Georgette Made Distinctive" by Use of Long Sleeves With Extreme Deoillete.
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THK large woman, with good cause,
has . always considered surplus
weight a detriment to her figure.
Lately she has begun to change her
opinion and think of excess avoirdu
pois in the light of an asset instead
of a liability, for now the sveltline
system of designing provides her wyh
gowns that give thu figure of generous
proportions slim lines.
An evening gown designed according
to that new scientific method produces
the much desired effect or slender lines.
It is a pretty model, trimmed with
beading, and cut "to convert all excess
avoirdupois to an aid in forming good
lines.
.
In the vaiVguard of the season's styles
comes ' a bit of elaborate feminine
adornment, and no onewill dispute its
right to come first. It is a stunning
afternoon gown of plum satin. The
whole effect4 of the dress is one of
elaboration. In fact, though an after
noon gown. It is suitable for almst
any occasion except the' ultra formal.
Wide gold lace banding forming the
shoulder straps and collar and cuffs
is but one of' the distinctive features
of this creation. . The same banding is
gracefully arranged to trim the tunic,
and a deep cuff of rich fur finishes the
tunic. Even the georgette' sleeves are
elaborate. They are trimmed with gold
lace cuffs and gold ball buttons.
.
Though it is simple, .and of necessity
war times will make for simplicity in
Winter gowns and Winter functions,
the creation shown above for both
formal and Informal wear is ador
able. It is of peach georgette grace
fullv draped and richly trimmed with
bands of silver fox. A distinctive fea
ture is the use together of long sleeves
with low decollete. A dainty cell-blue
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ribbon encircles the waist and a nose
gay combining,' all the colors of the
gown is coque ttishly placed on one
shoulder.
of trumps, exhausting the opponents.
All B ean make 'now is ace of clubs
and the three' rerhainin'g' trumps.
Reticules of .To'day Assume
Gorgeous Shades.
Chinese Dragons and HleroKlyphtcs
Grace Afternoon Bags.
TTIVEN the paisley bag of last Winter
Pi could not claim for Itself ( such
distinction as Is accorded to the Chi
nese affair of this season. Very.' very
smart is the Chinese reticule for use
with formal afternoon frocks worn at
the matinee, at luncheon parties and at
bridge affairs.
The reticule described is a most gor
geous one. of rich, dark blue faille
silk embroidered with Chinese dragons
and hieroglyphics in gray and blue
and with a delightful Mandarin done
In salmons, apricots, flesh tints, flame,
nasturtium and black. ' The handles of
the bag are also embroidered' in Man
darin colors.
Concerning Women.
Women voters in the world number
15.13S.236.
Women are fast replacing men in the
printing trade.
Every woman in Cologne, Germany, is
forced to work.
Over 3000 Breton women earn their
living as sailors.
Miss Elizabeth Markland is the only
woman surgeon In the British army.
Twenty-four lumber yards in Wiscon
sin now employ .women as lumber
handlers. f
Heavy motor trucks being used ln'the
devastated regions of Northern France
to transport children and old persons
from the areas where misery reigns e
being driven by Smith College gixls.
The Massachusetts minimum wage
commission has recommended a mini
mum wage of $9 for experienced' wom
en employes in men's clothing factories
in that state.
"Women will be employed in the Car
ney's Point plant of the DuPont Pow
der Company.' It is proposed to employ
at first 200 women, who will be placed
In the cuttina-liouses. where the work
is light.
As a resuft of work done by agents
of the home economics bureau of the
Department of Agriculture, thousands
of Southern women are now practical
and successful farmers in many of the
Southern states.
Drop Muffins.
The inelegant name for a corn bread
muffin. ! dropped, in the South is
"scratchback," probably because the top
or back - presents a sketchy and
scratchy apprance. However inele
gant its nickname, the drop muffin is
one of the best brealcfast breads for
children as well as grownups.
This Is the way old Aunt Dilcey, the
queen of a Southern kitchen, made her
drop muffins.
One pint of sour milk or buttermilk.
One pint of sifted cornmeal (white
meal, not- yellow "seconds").
One teaspoonful of baking powder.
Four eggs.
One dessertful of lard, butter or any
preferred shortening.
One saltspoonful of salt.
Beat the eggs separately. Make a
batter of the milk and meal and beat
the eggs into the mixture. Add the salt.
Drop from a kitchen spoon to a hot
pan or griddle and bake quickly till
brown.
' The top should be slightly corru
gated if the drop muffin is properly
made and baked.
, OUT OF THE MO IT US OK BABES.
Charles received a wagon on his
birthday and promptly broke a wheel.
His father soon mended it. "Papa," he
said, "you are smarter than you look."
"How much is the watermelons, Mr.
Brown?" asked a ragged little miss of
4 years.
"Oh, go long with you," replied the
grocer. "Your mamma hasn't given
you any money to spend on water
melons." ".Well.". rejoined. the child'haven't I
got as good right to go shoppln' as tht
other ladies?"
L.ittle Tobin "Mamma, didn't you say
we should always try to make othel
people happy?"
Mamma "Yes, dear."
Little Tobin "Well, I know a littla
boy that I could make very happy if j
had 5 cents to buy candy with."
Mamma "Who -Is the little boy?"
Little Tobin "It's me."
HOUSEHOLD HELPS.
All raw foods should be thoroughly
washed.
Before painting furniture be sun
that it is clean.
Jellied Prunes can be served with
boiled custard.
Sweet corn and popcorn should not i
be planted together.
The longer the tomato sauce is cooked
the better the. flavor.
New peas are improved by a little
susrar and so is cut-off corn.
Don't salt steak until ready to serve
it, if you would have It tender.
A' heavy wire double broiler is most
convenient for steak broiling.
Nothing is more delicious than chick
en smothered in fresh mushrooms.
In case of burns apply powdered
charcoal; it soothes the pain and heals
the sore.
ABSOLUTELY
NOTHING
BETTER
THAN
CUTICURA
FOR
THE SKIN
The Soap to cleanse and purify,
the Ointment to soothe and he
all skin troubles that itch, burn,
crust and scale. They prevent littk
skin troubles becoming serious,
and used for, every -day toilel
purposes have no superior -for
maintaining the purity and
beauty of the skin, hair and hands.
For Trial Free by Return Mail ad
dress post-card: "Cuticurm, Dept. 24,
Boston." Sold throughout the world.
Soap 25c. Ointment 25 and 50c
An Instantaneous
Wrinkle Remover
The average woman is always sur
prised to learn, after experimenting
with all sorts oi patent ho - canea
"wrinkle removers," that the most ef
fective remedy In the world is a simple
face wash which she can make herself
at home in a jiffy.
She has only to get an ounce of
pure powdered saxolite from her near
est druggist and dissolve it in half a
)int or witch hazel. Apply tnis retresn
ng solution to the face every day for
l while. The result Is charming mar
velous. Even after the very first treat
ment the wrin-kles show less plainly
and the face has a nice, firm, comfort
able feeling that is thoroughly delight
ful and lends self-confidence in one's
appearance. This harmless home rem- -edy
is used by thousands of women to
obliterate the unwelcome traces of
time. Adv.