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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 23, 1917)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAST, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 33, 1917. PARIS MODELED DANCE FROCKS ARE SIMPLE IN LINE WITH BLACK AS PREVAILING COLOR Laces Exceedingly Popular and Evening Gowns of -Filmy Material Are Veritable Craze Straight Lines From Shoulder to Heel Feature One Much Admired Creation That Is Strikingly GracefuL r - - 'writr v;cv -1 I - "Cr .. - TTPICAL of the simplicity of line which Paris favors for dance frocks just now is a little dancing dress of satin with the inevitable touch of sparkling trimming. And here again is the black dance frock! One will note many of them this year, for black evening- gowns promise to have a tremen dous vogue. The black satin skirt is gathered at the waist and again at-the edge Into a narrow hem, and the drapery is a length of gold lace, caught at the hips and weighted in front with a jet tassel so that It drags down into graceful folds. Jet bands and bands of petunia velvet cross the shoulders and petunia velvet edges the top of the bodice. A petunia flower with gold leaves is caught against the corsage. , laces are extremely popular this year, and black lace dance frocks are a veritable craze. A very handsome bor der lace of Calais design is draped over black satin liberty in one charming TnodeL The transparent yoke and long sleeves are of black tulle, and the bodice is most gracefully draped. This Is one of the costumes designed after the sveltline principle for large figures and the proportions, as well as the drapery and the arrangements of lace and tulle have been carefully consid ered. The stout women can now buy a ready-made dance frock and wear it the same evening without alteration, so well do these sveltline-lnspired models 'adapt themselves to the large figure. An extreme type of the straight-line vening gown is a model from a French house. Few ordinary dressmakers could achieve such beautiful simplicity of line but this gown is masterly. Flesh-tinted metal brocade forms the foundation of the costume and over this is flung silver fishnet. Silver roses lielp to weight down the drapery into Vhe flat lines that are so strikingly graceful, and where the roses are not sufficiently heavy, long tassels of sil ver cord lend their dracging weight. An Eye for Bargains. Touth's Companion. "Sire, said the grand vizier of a certain Oriental potentate, "I suggest that in tbe future we buy our automo biles from txe Western company that has Just ottered us a 30 per cent dis count." "Good ! said the potentate. "Order a consignment of 500 automobiles, as sorted sizes, at once, and tell the com pany to send us a check for the dis- i ' V'-- - "ir It '"sV I ": . - ' Air h VT '' -"s 1 i i 1 ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENCE FIRWOOD. Or.. Aw 25. Desr M!u Tins!: Would you plras cive m a rcipe for ripe tomato preserves? Yours truly, MRS. G. S. S. HOPE the following is what you HI rant: Tomato Preserves No. 1 1 quart ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut into small pieces, 4 cups sugar. 1 lemon, two oranges. Cut the rind of the oranges and lemon into very small strips. Boil these in water until tender, and drain. Cut up the orange and lemon pulp and add the sugar and the cut-up tomatoes with the cooked shreds of peel. Boil about 2 hours, or until firm. The peel should be transparent. Seal like jelly. Yellow tomatoes are perhaps best for this, but red ones are also good. . Tomato Ginger Preserves. Select large rather under-ripe tomatoes, wash end cut In halves, remove the seeds and place the tomato halves in alum wa ter, allowing one ounce alum to one half gallon of wer. Meanwhile, make a syrup, allowing 14 cups sugar and 1 4 cup water for each pound of pre pared tomatoes and -ounce ginger root to each pint of syrup. Boil the water with the ginger until it is well flavored, then add the sugar and make the syrup. Drain the tomatoes from the alum water and wash to remove all trace of alum. Drain, and add to the syrup. Cook gently nntil the to matoes seem saturated with the syrup, then remove them to the Jars. Boil down the syrup to the desired thick ness. Pour over the tomatoes. Place a small piece of the ginger in each Jar ard seal. The alum water may be omitted, but in that case the tomato halves will be less firm, though pos aibly more digestible. VANCOUVER. Wash. Iear Miss Tincle Hbr It i U ; fxxp -hi 1 M" .-"''ijf : J-? - ' M is rt i " 1 i t . . 'V " :i: . ? ' -'; M " V i 1 f . ' j I ! j ;: mi . i if. ; nJrp; 11 i- 1 ? v x count by return mail, and tbo bills will be settled in due course." Please send me a recipe for watermelon pre serves. Thanking you la advance for an Immediate reply. B. C. I am sorry to disappoint you. but it Is never possible for me to "send" re cipes, though I am always glad to answer questions as eany as possible in this column. Directions for mak ing watermelon sweet pickles were giv en recently. I hope you saw them. Fol lowing is a recipe for watermelon pre serves: Watermelon Preserves. Remove the outside shell and all the pink part from the rind, cut it into suitable pieces cubes or fingers." or slices, or fancy shapes, as preferred. Soak in weak brine over night, then rinse and drop into alum water. Make a syrup in the proportion of cups of sugar to 1 quart of water and flavor by boiling with ginger, or orange and lemon juice and grated rinds, or mixed spices, as preferred. Drain the rind, wash to remove all traces of alum. Cook in water until parboiled, drain and cook in the flavored syrup until transpar ent. Put into Jars. Boil down the syrup, pour it over and seal. A more wholesome but less firm preserve is made without the use of alum water. GEAR HART. Or., Auf. 29. Dear Miss Tin- Zle: Will you please give tne a recipe for sauerkraut, and also how to can It? Can 1 use Crlsco cans? I bave quite a few and would like to utilise them In some way 1 hooe to see this in the earliest paper pos slble. Thanklnc you for the many favors 1 have received through your column. MRS. D. W. r. I hope you saw the sauerkraut direc tions given last Sunday. w nen ler mentation is complete the sauerkraut mav he out uo. like pickles. In stent ized screw-top Jara. If "Economy ta.ra axe ueL treat according to the n rV directions accompanying the Jars. Sauerkraut, however, will keep in the barrel, in a cool place, for a reasonable length of time, provided that the air is excluded from the kraut by the brine and weighted board, that "yeast scum" is not allowed to collect, and that care is exercised In taking out supplies of kraut. "Crlsco" tins could not be used for kraut on account of the action of the acid on the tin. If, however, you can lacquer them properly Inside, they could be used for canning fruits and vegetables by the "cold pack method, the lids being sealed perfectly air tight when taken from the boiler by treating them with paraffin or bot tllng wax. "Crlsco" cans. Just as they are, are excellent receptacles for dried products. PORTLAND, Ant. SO. I would like to know how to combine tana fish and rice. I thank you for any suggestions you might give me regarding same. JUKb. K. A. l. Tou might make a tuna fish and rice loaf, following any good salmon loaf recipe. Or a tuna kedgeree, mixing 2 to 3 cups hot, dry boiled rice with 1 cup flaked tuna fish and 1 or 2 hard boiled eggs with a tablespoonful or so of butter and seasonings to taste. A rice and tuna souffle would be good, or you might cream the tuna, or curry it and serve it in a rice border, or combine the tuna with any preferred sauce and use it as filling for a rice casserole or timbales. Or you could use cold tuna and cold dry boiled rice together with chopped celery and very finely chopped pickles. parsley or green pepper twitn or witn out hard-boiled egg) in a "main dish" Balad, using any preferred dressing. Or you might make a tuna and rice chowder, using tuna in place of clams and boiled rice in place of the pota toes of an ordinary cnowder. PORTLAND, Aug. 28. I would like to give, you a brine recipe. Have been using this aame recipe tor years as a house keeper and bave never yet had a soft, mushy pickle as a result. It may be used on botn "mixed" and "straight" pickles alike! Measure your water, then make a brine to bear an egg. To every gallon of water add t level teaspoonful of powdered alum. Bol your brine and keep skimming it till it is perfectly clear. Have cucumbers ready, pour boiling brine over them in the mom ins. Cover and let remain until the after noon of the next day. then place in clear cold water. Let remain till next morning. They may then be prepared according late. only heat the vinegar good and not. but not boiling, and pour over the cucum bers in jars. I have taken several prizes on my pickles prepared this way. I am an ore gonian subscriber and have benefited greatly through your column. MRS. F. Many thanks for your receipt. I am very glad vou find this column helpful. I have no doubt that your pickles will keep beautifully crisp (if they are kept well below the vinegar or brine), but it is always to be remembered that the use of alum in pickles is marked "very doubtful" from the point of view of wholesomeness. Such pickles may per haps be eaten in strict moderation by persons of robust health and strong di gestion, but should never be given to children or persons with delicate or abnormal digestive systems. SALEM. Or.. Aug. 24. Dear Miss Tingle Will you please give me a recipe for pickling small onions, plain. Respectluliy yours MRS. II. Directions for pickled onions were given quite recently. I hope you saw tbem. If not. you might perhaps like to follow the directions given in the preceding letter, or you might write again and I will repeat the recipes as soon as the time limit expires. PORTLAND. Aug. 23. Dear Miss Tingle Three or four days ago I canned several nuarta of beans, using the blanching method. packing the beans in the cans hot. Then laid them on their side in a boiler of boiling water. I filled the cans to overflowing with hot water as directed. Then I put them in to boil., but did not seal them tightly. Now the water boiled out. so that there is very little In each can not nearly enough to cover the beans. What shall I do? Will they keep as they are. or shall I qpen them, put In more water and boll them again? They are in glass cans. One more question: How can I can cucumbers in bot tles. . I don't want them to be sour, but want to make sweet pickles and put them In bottles to save the Jars. M. C If you sealed the cans of beans tight lv as on as they were removed from the boiler they probably will keep; but if not then you should reboil them. Tou could test one jar, if you like, by keeping it a week or 10 days in a warm place (suc'i as a warming oven) and noting whether any spoiling takes place under these adverse conditions and then act accordingly, ou should not have laid the Jars on their sides, but set them upright with water cov ering them one inch deep. If you mean sweet picklffd cucum bers, you simply can put them up while hot in sterilized wide-mouth bottles and seal with a well-boiled, well-fit-lng corks, dipping them overhead in melted paraffin or bottling wax after driving into the bottles as firmly as possible. I am glad to hear from you again. . . , PORTLAND. Or., Aug. 31. Please let me have a recipe for a good cornmeal bread or gems without eggs. Thanking you. MRS. C. S. R. The following Is easy and Inexpens ive and while, of course, not as "good eating"- as if made with eggs, is easy to make, wholesome, and palatable: Plain Cornmeal Gems. 2 cups corn- meal. 2 cups well soured milk or but termilk. 1 teaspoon (level) soda. 1 tea spoon salt, 1 cup flour. Soak the corn meal over night in the sour milk. When ready to bake beat in the flour sifted with the salt and soda. The exact amount of flour may vary slightly with the kind of flour used. One or two tablespoons each shortening and sugar are optional ingredients. Bake in hissing-hot, very-well greased gem pans. RAINIER, Or.. Aug. 80. Dear Miss Tingle: Would you please give me directions for starting what we call everlasting yeast? It is a yeast where a starter is kept out each time at bread making. Is there dangr.r of putting too many potatoes in yeast ? I think too many makes the bread seem doughy. Is this so? Thanks for past favors MRS. H. J. Home-Made Teast 4 medium-size potatoes washed and pared, 1 quart hot water. -cuo sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 1 cake dry, yeast soaked in one-fourth cup cold water, or 1 cake fresh com pressed yeast, or 1 cup llquia yeast tor starter"). Grate or grina me pota toes into the water and boll about S minutes, stirring all the time. Add the sugar and salt and allow the mixture to cool to lukewarm. Then add the veast and keen in a warm room (at about 70 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit) for 24 hours, when it should be "light' ana ready for use..- Take out one cup, put into a separate scalded-out glass Jar, cover, and keep In a cold place as a utirter" for the next batch. Jieep tne rest in a covered crock or enamel pail in a cool place and use as needed, one cup will be about equivalent in use to one fresh or dry yeast cake. If the yeast after a while seems less active and gives heavy or sour bread, throw away the old "starter" and make the next batch with a new yeast cake or good active "starter" from a neign hnr. Some makers like to add -cup of flour with the sugar, others' boil a tKi Annnnnful of hoDS or a teaspoon of ginger in the water, but the simpler recipe will usually be louna quite sat isf actorv. There is little danger or HKennooa that you will put too many potatoes In yeast. Too many potatoes in Dreau will tend to make it too doughy. An allowance of one medium-size pota to to each cud of liquid Is a very gen eroi one in ordinary bread making; but for "war bread." where plenty of potatoes are available and wheat flour is to be conserved the allowance oi po tatoes may be increased up to 3 pounds for potatoes to 2 pounds or Hour Imakine four loaves of aDout one pound each), and still retaining a fairly good texture. cT.iTSTriKlVF;. Or. A n it 24. Dear Miss Tingle: Being a constant reader ot 1 ne Oregonlan and having received a great deal of benefit from the questions and answers in the cooking department, I am calling on vftn trt hfln me out. ISOW mat meal isi ao high and we must save all we can. I would be more than pieaaeu it you win ven m vour columns how to dry beef. We often have a little left over from meals or some times I wish I had some way oi nrymg uei. w -L-ei-v fdnii nf it. But it Is quite ex pensive to buy it dried. I have a dryer and ftniH iiha ft to good advantage in the meat case. Will you also tell me how long prunes have to be dried and II tne neat naa to us great or not during the process of drying? Please try and publish my answer as soon as you can, for I am a very busy woman now and I don't want to lose any time. As the fruit comes on I want to dry lots of it. If you will also tell me how to make good waffles (not an expensive kind) I will be grateful to you. Thanking you. MRS. J. J. K. I am afraid I do not quite under stand your question. If you mean, is it possible to convert Into "dried beef" meat left over from a meal. I should say "No," but you can use It econom ically in nice left-over dishes, so that there would be no advantage in dry ing it, or you could can it for future use. If, however, you mean how to prepare dried beef from fresh beef, I should say that you might do bo, but I doubt if it would be profitable, unless you are killing your own beef. It would have to be pickled and smoked and although I do not know what kind of a dryer you may have, I doubt whether you could use it for this pur pose to make a product resembling the commercial dried beef. Perhaps some reader may offer suggestions as to this. Of course, you can cut cooked meat into strips and dry it Just as you might dry sliced potatoes or carrots or beans, later soaking it and using it in soups or stews: but this would not resemble the commercial product that you say you like. Write again and let me know which you had in mind. Prunes should be dried from 4 to 6 hours at a temperature of- from 110 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. They should not be "bone dry," but leathery. "Con dition" well before storing. For fur ther details write to the Oregon Ag ricultural College for a bulletin on prune drying and on the preservation of vegetables and fruits. Waffles Two cups pastry flour, four level teaspoons baking powder, one level teaspoon salt, two egg yolks, one and one-quarter cups rich milk, one half cub melted crisco. three egg whites beaten separately. Mix to a smooth batter, beating well and adding the egg whites last. Bake in hot. well-greased waffle irons. The success of waffles depends really more on jkill in baking than in the particular "recipe" used, so If you are not successful, take a practical lesson from some skilled friend. ... . You might like to use the following to economize: Wheat flour and eggs and making a larger "batch." Corn meal waffles Three cups flour, one-half cup corn meal, one and one half teaspoons paking powder, one and one-half teaspoons salt, three table spoons sugar, one and one-half cups boiling water, one and one-half cups sweet milk, two eggs, three tablespoons shortening. Add the meal to the boil ing water and boil 20 minutes, turn into a bowl, then add the milk and-remain-ing dry ingredients mixed and sifted, beating well. Then add the egg yolks well beaten, the melted shortening and the egg whites beaten stiff. Bake in a hot. well-greased waffle iron. Waffles should be regarded as a "lux ury" in war times on account of the amount of butter and syrup usually eaten with them, even if a "plain" recipe is used. American Woman Friend of Bulgaria's Queen. Mrs. Theodore S. Holivtay. of Seattle. P, Poetic Tribute to "Eleanor the Good." mHE death of Queen Eleanore. of Bui X garia, has recalled to a number of Portland women the tributes paid to that sovereign by Mrs. Theodore S. Holway, of Seattle, her close personal friend, who visited In this city last year at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Fred erick Eggert. For eight years Mrs. Holway and her husband resided in Bulgaria, where they were in charge of mission work of the Congregational Church. . and where Mrs. Holway and Queen Eleanore contracted a warm friendship. During her visit to this city Mrs. Holway told many delightful anecdotes of Queen Eleanore. of her graciousness, her broad charity and her love for her people. Particularly was the Queen in terested in the work of the American Red Cross, and when the Hoi ways left Sofia she rented and equipped their large residence as a training school for nurses. Mrs. Holway. who Is known among her friends as the author of charming verse, recently sent to Mrs. Kggert a tribute to Bulgaria's late Queen. Jhe poem follows: K lea no re. She comes from distant, royal towers. True daughter of a knightly race. And In her high-born soul there flowers A heritage of queenly grace. No shallow pride of rank, or birth. E'er mars her soul's serenity. She proves her higher, truer worth. By simple, sweet amenity. "Noblesse Oblige" she counts the high Prerogative of majesty. And lifts life's burdens, far and nigh. With unassuming modesty. She quits her pleasant palace halls Fair courts oi ease and dignity To enter humble cottage waU. With mien of sweet benignity. She moves with words of reverent praiss Amidst the wounded and the dead. In Mercy's guise; nor scorns to raise . A peasant soldier's dying head. Where'er within her kingdom's bounds The voice of suffering wakes the land. She goes to heal pale Sorrow s wounds. 2vor ever goes with empty hand. She seeks within the nation's life. To raise the standard of the pure. Enthrone fair Truth, cast out foul strife. And Righteousness and Peace insure. Thus on her tender Ffeart she bears The burden of her peoples needs; And on her brow, unconscious, wears A diadem of noble deeds. Let Bulgar mothers emulate Her character's nobility. And Bulgar daughters Imitate Her exaulsite humility. Let grateful subjects e'er proclaim Her sacrificial womanhood. And on Bulgaria's Roll of ' Fame, Inscribe: Eleanore the Oood." E. Ft. Waistcoats Made in Every thing; From Pique to Seal. Broadcloth Fashionable for Tall in! rs and Fn Used More Spar ingly. w AISTCOATS are the rape and they pique to sealskin. A topcoat of brown wool velour from Martial Armand shows, beside the broad trimming band. cuffs and exaeg'erated Incroyable col Iar of sealskin, a very natty sealskin waistcoat that covers the front from neck to hips and extends around the waist in a sort of curving" belt. A dark green cloth suit from Jenny has a waistcoat and collar of black satin, and there are splendid waistcoats of Chinese embroidery giving- color to otherwise somber-hued tailormades. - Knitted worsted trimmings, heavy braidings and cords are conspicuous on the new Fall frocks of wool material Embroideries of chenille or beads dec orate models in silk or georgette. m m m In spite of the tremendous vogue of wool velour, broadcloth will hold Its own this Winter as a material for handsome and distinguished tailleurs. Very often satin or velvet are com bined with the cloth effectively and less often than last year one notes the touch of fur. Fur is distinctly rash ionable, but furry effects are not to be overdone, as they have been in the past two seasons, when any self-respecting street costume and most frocks and negligees sported more or less fur of any quality obtainable. . Pleated skirts are more fashionable than they have been for years, and nothing pleats more satisfactorily than mohair, which is being used quite ex tensively for trotter and morning dresses for all-Winter wear under long topcoats. Sometimes there will be a long-walsted bodice of satin, joined at the hip to a pleated mohair skirt; sash, cuffs and collar of the mohair. Some times skirt and jumper bodice are of mohair with sash and sleeves of satin. The new mohairs are very attractive in rich, plain colors and in hairline and stripe effects. Parisians wear a good deal of this practical and satisfactory fabric, finding it Ideal for indoor wear all Winter long and for smart little street frocks in the between seasons. Brassiere Has Become Arti cle of , Beauty. : Newly Developed Piece of Feminine Apparel Boost to Stout Woman. PERHAPS next to the clever svelt line method of cutting and draping which has brought about a metamor phosis in the stout woman's dress, there has been no more important adjunct to feminine costume in the past decade than the brassiere. Even the thin woman has adopted it; to her 'of curves and embonpoint it is the actual sine qua non of presentable costuming. The brassiere began as a etout, uncom fortable garment made of fabric strong as sailcloth, warranted not; to "give whatever the strain put upon it: and it has developed into an airy affair of sil-v and lace, soft as u hand kerchief yet capable of holding the most overdeveloped figure in firm and grace ful lines. There are hundreds of styles, from mere wisps of gauzy fabric to beautifully cut models whose daintiness of appearance belies their reliable qualities of sturdiness and firmness in controlling superfluous flesh. ' If the corset is the stout woman s stay, the brassiere should certainly be called her mainstay, for without it she cannot hope to achieve a fashionable and graceful silhouette. There are brassieres to wear over the corset, in place of the old-style corser-cover or camisole. There are even camisoles with brassiere attachments, and the large woman who has not looked care fully into the brassiere question will spend a profitable day making a study of this type of garment and selecting the -models particularly adapted to her nwn needs. She will certainly find them and. once found, they should never be missing from her wardrobe. The beautiful sveltlin-inspired frocks and tailleurs that have changed the stout woman's once-dreaded shopping for-ready-mades into hours of delight ful rase relv for their roundation. spe cial" corsets and brassieres which bring the large figure down to trim outlines. Over these controlled contours the per fectly proportioned sveltline garments fall In such distinguished and grace ful lines that the woman who weighs 200-odd pounds scarcely knows herself as she sees the gracious, well-proportioned figure confronting her in the mirror. Making Mango Chutney. One quart vinegar, two tablespoons ginger, two tablespoons mustard seed, two cups brown sugar, two tablespoons salt. Boil the above ingredients together for a few minutes. ' One cup steamed chopped raisins, two green peppers, two oni ns. 12 sour apples. ' Remove the seeds from peppers and chop with onions: simimer two hours in the vinegar prepared above: then add the apples, pared, cored and quar tered and stew until apples are soft. Saving the Floor Is Advised. If hot grease is spilled on the floor, dash oold water on it at once and harden the grease. Then scrape It up before it . has time to soak into the floor. TREATMENT FOR BLEACHING .: , TAN FROM SKIN IS GIVEN Steaming Process Recommended to Make Complexion Fair, but Warninff Not to Use Rouge During Process Is Most Emphatic. . fca a."sa'x ..y v . . v... ;-w s."qwvv''ajm', . MMmmw.'..i'.wjs'M MsM't'y'ayywv'!ywggs?,Jsi ! v ... . f',"4r ' " ; :: r - W; : H ) - & Vs. i fW 7 " , - -V- I 1 I v '1 Hi X i - V I : "If"-" 3 - -NlW - i - . - j BLEACH OUT SUMMKR. TAN SOW. B BUTTERNUT-COLORED akin is all very well agrainst an out-of-door background, but no one wants It above a pastel-tinted evening gown in October. It is better to bleach out tan than to allow it to "wear off." The latter process may take until Christmas and the skin will never be as fine and fair again. A thorough bleaching and softening now will restore the complex ion much more satisfactorily, though, or course, each Summer of exposure to wind and sun takes "its toll out of a lovely complexion.. Two nights a week, treat the face to a thorough steaming, holding the head, covered by a large towel, above a basin of hot water until perspiration streams freely. Then work cold cream well into FASHION DECREES NO CREPE FOR RELATIVES OF WAR HEROES American Women Are Urged Not to in World T HE wives, the sisters, the sweet-, hearts, the mothers of men -Who have zone out to fight for the E-reat cause of democracy have been asked to sink their own personal feel- j tnES when comes that dread day when the inevitable lists of the wounded, and the dead, shall bring sorrow to our shores and to put the cause of patriot ism first. And patriotism in this in stance will mean refraining from ex hibiting the evidence of personal woe in the form of black trappings; tnat me courage and the high intentions of oth ers who must go forth to battle, or who must send their loved ones forth to bat tle, may not be affected by depression of spirit. One of the leading traae journals 01 the country, the Dry Goods Economist, whose close relationship with the sar torial interests of Paris and London give indisputable authority to all its expressions on the matter of dress, was interviewed recently in regard to this new non-wearing-of-mournlng . move ment. ' Britain Adopts Principle. - "We cannot win the war by wearing crepe." declares the Economist." Lon don realized the importance of this sac rifice of the personal 'Luxury of woe." early In the war, - and. discarding of mourning apparel throughout the peri od of the war, waa a, principle adopted by Oreat Britain shortly after that country's entrance into the conflict. And this principle is in keeping with th. snirit which has animated the Eng lish people throughout three years of terrible struggle and anxiety. "But France ,has worn, mourning," It was suggested. "Yes, France has and the utter sor row, the' depression' of spirit that the black garb of Paris has helped to cre ate has had its reacting effect. Paris is sad, unutterably sad; England is stout-hearted, optimistic, bravely as sured. In London the theaters and the music halls are all open. People go flhnut aa thouErh oursulng every-day af fairs with gladsome, or at least intrepid spirit. If there are sad hearts they do not prbclaim themselves by banners of crepe. Personal Feelings Set Aside. . Personal feelings are covered up for the sake of the feelings of those wno must win the war those whose high purpose of endeavor might be affected If ever so little Dy a general evidence ui sorrow and depression around them. "Surely," insists the Economist. "No argument is needed to convince the pa triotic American that the wearing ot mourning just now, while It might soothe personal sorrow, would militate against the efforts this country is mak ing to bring this world struggle to a swift and early close." "But would not the wearing of mourning and the necessary purchasing of new wearables and new fabrics tend to increase business prosperity through out the country?" the Economist was asked "On the contrary, the refraining from mourning apparel will have a decided economic value. It Is a time for the conservation of resources in the home; and in many homes money would be put into swathings of black and the trap pings of crepe that ought to go Into food and fuel. Economy Is Good Reason. The result would be to Increase the shortage of materials, already growing serious, and to raise prices of garments still higher than they are now. The poor follow afar off. but follow never theless, the fashions of the rich. If the rich will not adopt mourning for the sake of patriotism the poor are likely to follow the lead; and many, a poor family will be relieved of the necessity of laying out for mourning a sum badly needed for the needs of living." "But surely," came the doubtful ques tion, "you would not advise gay colors for the sake of patriotism T' On this point the Economist spoke with authority. "There are no gay colors in street dress now. Paris has seen to thatl All the new street shades i f the pores. In the morning, dash coo water on face and throat and spat (no rub, dry with a soft towel On alternate nights, apply cold crear plentifully, bathing the face first n warm water, softened by a pinch of bor ax. Do not use any face rouge durln: the treatment, and only a little taleun powder, if necessary, to take off th' "Shine." Bandages wet with cucumbe juice, laid over the face while one rest in the afternoon, will hasten the bleach ing process, but it would be difficult t keep these bandages on at night durinf sleep. Be careful to use cold water 01 the face in the mornings, for the skirl softened by steaming and cold creani must be made resistant to oust an' winds before it is exposed to the out door air. Put on Mourning for Soldiers Killed Conflict. are dark or neutral. All the effects 1 dress are quiet and dignified. Extrem fashions are now considered the heigh of bad taste. And undoubtedly tner will be some suitable device, like black band on the sleeve or somethln of the sort which will set apart as sip nificantlv as yards of crepe veil, th Individual to whom bereavement ha come." Aids to Economy Given.-- If you have a wooden baby carrlapi that is not in use. don t sell it ortnro It away, but take off the spring wheels and shade and buy a sled. C course it has to be the size of carrlag and fastened securely onto earnag then, with a little painting and vai nishing. you have a nice sled lor did Make a taffeta dress I00K HKe new u usins? tea that is left over. To prevent, cake; from burning spriri kle a little bran in bottom ot f as. If cake sticks to pan after It Is doi turn on bottom side, still In pan. Wrir. out cloths in cold water, put on Dotto of pan, for a few minutes and cake wl come o'ut without breaking. . : Two hundred and nine years ago th province ol. New York put .a. close season upon deer, partridge, quail, wil turkeys and heath hen. - ' 'I WOMEN! IT'S CHEAP! USE LEMON JUICE TO MAKE BEAUTY LOTION I In all weathers the skin and corrf plexion can be kept wonderfully clea soft and white by the use of this lnes pensive lemon lotion, which any gii or woman can easily prepare. - The juice of two fresh lemons strain? Into a bottle containing three 01-ncfi of orchard white makes a whole quai ter pint of the most remarkable lemo skin ben-utifier at about the cost or must pay for .a small jar of the ordirf ary cold creams, care snould De taste to strain the lemon juice through a fin cloth so no lemon pulp get3 In, the this lotion will keep fresh for month) Every woman knows that lemon juid is used to bleach and remove sue blemishes as freckles, sallowness sr.! tan, and is the ideal skin softenel smoothener and beautlfier. Just try it! Get three ounces ! orchard white at any pharmacy an two lemons from the grocer and matl up a quarter pint or this sweetly rraJ rant lemon lotion, it naturaiiy snou helD to Boften. freshen, bleach an bring out the roses and hidden beaut of anv skin. Those who will make It habit to gently massage this lotion int the face, neck, arms and hands ones or twice daily may be repaid with skin that is flexible and young lookln and a peachlike complexion. Adv. t 'v " ' ft I- ' i v -, "- - , f