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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 5, 1917)
THE SUNDAY OEEGOXIAX, POliTLAND, AUGUST" 5, 1917. 7 "SLIP ON, SLIP OFF EASY" COAT DESIGNED TO CATCH FANCY OF SMART COLLEGE GIRL Dark" Khaki-toned Wool Velour Garment, With Collars and Cuffs Faced Deeply With Sealskin, Sets New Styles. Slanting Pockets Under Instead of Upon Coat Material New Tarn Has Suggestion of Military Air. MM MM ".. ' ; v.. ..:;:-:Lv - - . . S " ' II- ! : ' " J,-5 ;1 THIS Is the sort of "slip on, slip off easy" coat that a busy g-irl likes best for wear in a college town. The lines have the comfortable loose ness combined with trig smartness ap proved by Fashion this year. The coat Is built of dark khaki-toned wool velour with collar and cuffs faced deep ly with sealskin. The slanting pockets, placed under instead of upon the coat material, are notably interesting be cause they mark a new style. i Before the first term is over, a campus top coat usually becomes too rough and ready a garment for wear on special occasions or on week-end trips back home, so the well-equipped college girl has a- smart and correct tailleur: something like this one, per haps, of dull blue velour de laine with skunk collar and cuffs. The buttoned eraiters and a dressy but not too dressy UNUSUALLY FINE PERFORMANCES MARK FIRST OF CONCERTS. AT COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY Andre Messager, Greater Conductor and Composer, Is Expected to Bring to America Orchestra Composed o? Faculty Members of Paris Conservatory Beautiful Dancer Engaged as Singing Actress in Century Revue. . BY EMILIE FRANCES BAUER. NEW- YORK, Aug. 4. (Special.) "With the entrance of the short season of grand opera at Colum bia University, the Civic Orchestral concerts will probably pass out of the present curriculum of Summer events. It Is not unlikely that they may be resumed during the month of Septem ber under much happier conditions than could possibly exist at the Saint Nicho las Rink, at least if such is not the case it will not be the fault of Miss Martha Maynard, whose efforts have been untiring. . An audience of over 2000 persons heard "La Boheme" Tuesday evening a week ago at the gymnasium hall of Columbia University, where the grounds were lighted with garlands of electric bulbs and different color ef fects seemed to play through the trees. The performance was given under cov er, but there was an atmosphere of "out-of-doors'" and between the acts the people wandered about the beauti ful grounds and seemed to enjoy thor oughly this phase of it. Inasmuch as ' the proceeds are to go to the aviation fund of the National Special Aid So ciety, there were addresses by Rear Admiral Bradley A. Flske and Repre sentative Murray Hulbert. An unusually fine performance opened the series of operas which ended July 31. From the rise of the curtain on the well-known quarters of Rodolfo, who with his friends and Mimi. to say naught of the brow-beaten landlord, Benolt. there was a steady flow of the delightful Puccini music and the inter preters did the utmost credit to the work. Botta, who has been heard frequently 'the Doet. sang with opulence of vol ume and his usual beauty of tone and he lent sympathy or personality n tn fc&r- ; v? travelin tive cos g hat complete a most attrac tume. . - Every schoolgirl adores a tarn,' whether she be a wee kindergarten lassie or a "grave and dignified" senior at college. This new tarn has the nar row visor brim that gives a military suggestion and the big crown is very dashing, above a pretty and youthful face. Even young girls in their teens affect veils these days, and here -is a particularly captivating veiling with a grape-vine pattern which manages to display itself without hiding Its wear er's mouth or eyes. Chutney Sr ace Recipe. Twelve sour apples, two green pep pers, six green tomatoes, four small onions, one cup stoned raisins, one quart vinegar, two tablespoonf uls salt picture. Miss Teyte was no stranger in the role of Mimi, one of the most effective impersonations in her reper tory, lying- as it' doea so thoroughly within her best equipment and in the Marcello of Philip Bennyan, many heard for the first time a young Ital ian baritone with lovely, luscious voice and a thorough, routine whose every phrase was freighted with something of distinct interest and charm. Mabel Rlegelmm Applauded. The second act with Its street scene was especially happy and brought for ward Mabel Riegelman, whose rollick ing Musetta caused the audience to break into ripples of applause through out the' act. She has a clear, ringing soprano, perhaps too much like that of Miss. Teyte to be thoroughly effective as foil to the soprano part, a matter more of what is' understood as "color" than in anything else. , She was equally happy in delinea tion of the fourth act, which also gave opportunity to Virgilio Lazzari for the successful apostrophe to the old coat, one which he fully grasped as Colline. and Pompilio Malatesta as Schaunrad completed a fine quartet of artists. Paolo Ananian appeared as Aloindoro as well as Benoit roles in which he has been heard many times at the Metro politan. Pietro Audisio as Parpignol completed the cast. Marcel Charlier, always a favorite In New York and a most excellent repre sentative, of the French art of opera conducting, wielded the baton, achiev ing better total results on Thursday evening after becoming acquainted with the auditorium. Rodolfo on Thursday night was in the hands of Giuseppe Gaudenzi. "Faust" Im Sung. Perhaps the most interesting feature 'of the Saturday evening performance of C rrofi's t iT"-r--- -r ! Pi: -f itt two tablespuonfulls mustard seed, two cupf uls brown sugar, one table spoonful coriander seed. Chop the raisins, peppers, onions and tomatoes together, add the vinegar and sugar and boil slowly for one hour; then add the apples, pared, cored and shopped. -ook until the apple is soft; then add mustard and coriander seeds. Bottle while hot. MARRYING PREACHER SLIPS World's Record "Knotter" Xeglects Ceremony for Himself. CHARLESTON, W. Va.. July 27. An other "marrying preacher" with a rec ord of having tied the knots that I und 3047 persons for better or worse, tev. Henry Hill, neglected the formality of a wedding ceremony with Maggie Ad kins and now languishes in the bastile here. The woman in a signed state ment given the police said neither of them had -considered a ceremony nec essary. The police say Hill asserted that as soon as he could obtain a divorce from his wife he would marry his affinity. Hill has been a character for years. His stamping ground has been the Courthouse, where he could be seen daily approaching couples as they left the County Clerk's office with mar riage licenses. Through the Inducement of cut rates for his services Hill did a big business. He says he has the world's record In time for performing a marriage 57 seconds. THIS FUNERAL DIFFERENT Hicli Man Provides In Will for Wine Luncheon for Friends. DULUTH, Minn.. July 25. Provision for a wine luncheon and a band con cert for his friends during the time re quired to cremate his body was pro vided by William r . Norton, or J-ouis ville, Ky., whose will was filed for pro bate here recently. Norton died in Louisville, .Though he is often derided it is well to bear in mind that everybody s friend Is nobody's enemy. the Mefistopheies of Henry Weldon, an American basso.- whose art is so re fined and so compelling and his voice so beautiful in quality and in melliflu ous flow that it seems rather extraor dinary to be compelled to judge of him from the stage, so to speak, of a pass ing show. Mr. Weldon, 'who is the son of Ad miral Hughes, took the name which he now bears because it was simpler for French tongues, inasmuch as he was one of the greatest favorites of the French opera-goers. The reasonior this was apparent in his superb imperson ation of a role which will always be the standard by which all aspirants for basso .honors at the Paris Grand Opera House will be judged. Mr. Weidon's companions were Mag gie Teyte as Marguerite, Gaudenzi as Faust, and one who gave a most satis fying impersonation vocally and his trionically; Henriette Wakefield, whom it was good to welcome back as Siebel, after some seasons of absence from the Metropolitan; Marie Winietzkaya, whose use of a beautiful voice height ened the comedy part of Martha; Au guste Bouilliez, as a competent Valen tine, and Jean Roman! as Wagner. Miss Teyte's Marguerite has many excellent features and her singing of the florid music of the Jewel Song was among the most satisfying things she has done before the New York public. Charlier conducted the French opera con, amore. The stage direction throughout the series is in the hands of Luigi Albertieri and the soldiers' chorus came in for a special outburst of enthusiasm, as did the ballet. "Faust" had one more performance Thursday evening with the same cast, while "Tosca" was given Tuesday even ing and the following Monday with Luisa Villani in the title role. Luc a 'Botta as Mario. Auguste Bouilliez as Poart'1-' nH PhviH w i 1 1 sung the voice of the "pastore." The double bill Cavalleria Rusticana and Pagliacci" was given Saturday evening, July 28, and the following Tuesday evening with casts that included. Luisa Villani, Claudia Mnzio, Henrietta Wakefield, Maria v inietzkaya, Auguste Bouilliez, Riccardo Stracciari. Mario Laurent! and the tenors, Botta and Gaudenzi. alter nating. . Leon Rothier was the bright, partic ular star on Wednesday evening at the Civic Orchestral concert. His splendid repose, his noble voice and his distin guished bearing make of him a figure ! of unusual importance in the concert life of the country at the present time. At the opera. M. Rothier hides his per sonality under many roles, each of which this personality enhances, but in concert he lends distinction to every thing he does because in addition to one of the most beautiful voices of the stage he lacks all pose, affectation and theatricality and gives the impression of great sincerity and devotion to an art which he honors and for which he is duly honored. For this reason his singing of the Mozart Sarastro aria from "The Magic Flute." although in French, has never been surpassed as a noble and impres sive presentation, either in the opera or out of it. This he followed by an aria from "Robert le Diable" with all the art of the theater, but without any contortions.' "The Maraetllaine" Thrills Hearara. The singer, however, arose - to Tils supreme height when he appeared bear ing the French tricolors, and his sing ing of "La Marseillaise" thrilled every one present as was obvious from the deafening applause which greeted him. When he reappeared the audience arose of one accord offering him not only ac clamation, but the tribute of standing even before he began to sing a third stanza. Maurice Dambois, the Belgian cellist. played with the artistic finish which distinguished him in the concert halls last season the Boellmann variations and an encore. The numbers offered by M. Monteux were the Beethoven "Coriolanus" overture, an unusually dull section of the. Berlioz "Fantastic Symphony," Debussy's "Afternoon of a Faun," and a composition by Buzzi Peccia. The name of Andre Messager has al ways been one with which to conjure in America. The great conductor, com poser and finally impressario of the Grand Opera of Paris has had innumer able offers to pome to America in each of his capacities except perhaps that which was the one thing which kept him from accepting the offers to come as conductor and composer. Notwith-' standing the name of the organization, which seems to relate it to the grea. conservatory the orchestra is not com posed of conservatory students, but of the professors and it is the offical or ganization from which the students of the Paris Conservatory as well as the vast public which has always supported the concerts, received their musical Joya. This Soclete des Concerts du Conser vatoire with Andre Messager as con ductor will make a tour of this country if the plans go rightly with Arthur C Jeannotte, who during a short time was known in this country as manager of the Montreal Opera Company in that city. Mr. Jeannotte. who has just ar rived, said in regard to the project: "Either it can not be accomplished at all or it must be done with the greatest possible dignity and it is not desirable that a few individuals undertake to finance-the tour. The French govern ment is willing to call every man in from service and to subsidize the or ganization to an extraordinary extent taking into consideration what de mands lie upon the country under ex isting circumstances. "But France loves America, and if this country wants the orchestra suf ficiently to make it possible for it to come, it will come. There must be no chance for failure and again I wish to emphasize the fact that we do ndt wish the responsibility to lie With a few." Mr. Jeannotte has conferred with the Marquis de Polignac with whom he will cp-operate and he will also call into service an American manager whose in terest and dignity will be unquestioned and unquestionable. It is hoped to have the organization arrive by the middle of November and give its first concert in New York City. Society Haa Loiik Hlntory. The history of the Societie des Con certs is most absorbing and carries the reader back to primitive music in its most accepted . sense. On March 24, 1888, a committee which included Cher ubiul, Habeneck, Halvey and other names less known in the present era, assembled for the purpose of giving France an organization which would be worty of its place In the realm of art and letters. Very strong lines were drawn and to become a member made it necessary for the applicant to be an artist of the highest standing. Inci dentally it may be mentioned this mo ment that every man of the present or chestra is a member of the Legion of Honor. The first concert which was given shortly before the organization oc curred March 9. of that year, the first number of the first programme having been the "Eroica" symphony of Bee thoven. The second concert March 25, the day following the organization, the programme was entirely devoted to compositions of Beethoven and it may be added that there are few if any con certs given by this orchestra even at the present time without a symphony or an important Beethoven work upon It is understood that during th. forthcoming tour, this master's works will figure on every programme, the orchestra holding itself out of politics where the music of the great masters is concerned. The only time that this orchestra has been heard in Germany when it appeared at Bonn, in 1913. upon me occasion or a Beethoven celebration. and last year when it mada a. tnur in Switzerland was the only other time It nas ever played outside of its own con cert hall in the Paris Conservatoire Although he has not as yet begun hi3 campaign. Mr Jeannotte has already in hand a guarantee for 4000 from Mon treal and one for $6000 from Denver. Flore Revalles, the beautiful dancer who proved recently at one of the Civic Orchestral concerts that she is also the possessor of a very beautiful voice, has been engaged as a singing actress for the new Century Revue. It is under stood that Miss Revalles has set her aim for the Metropolitan Opera House and that all else she regards but a stepping stone in that direction. She is very beautiful in addition to being hghly talented, as is attested by those who saw her in the title role of Stra vinsky's "L'Oiseau de Feu" and heard her at the civic concert. PATHETIC TALE IS TOLD Prisoner Declares He Stole to Get Doctor to Visit SlcW Wife. ST. PAUL, Minn., July 25. An ill wife and a too mercenary physician made Elle Dupris a thief, he told Judge J. W. Boerner in police court. Dupris was charged with the theft of a carpenter's plane from the Beth seda Hospital. "I wanted to sell it for .60 cents. Judge," the prisoner said. "I had to have money. My wife was awful sick and the doctor would not come for less than $2. I had only $1.50. so I took the plane to get the rest." Judge Boerner continued the case to investigate, doubting Dupris' charge against the physician, whom he could not name. . . . v. . v. . . .j .a miic J 1 me IIUW UUI- 1 ors introduced in Butts and frocks. FACES SHOWN OF WOMEN WHOSE NAMES HAVE FIGURED PROMINENTLY IN NEWS Queen Mary of England Finds Time to Visit Hospitals and Nurseries Gilda Darthy's Name Brought Into Di vorce Suit Maggie Teyte's Name Is Really "Tait," and She's Irish. ,mm ' c-m (TI I r;tfi ; MRS. 'A. E. Captain daughter E. GRANT is the wife of A. E. Grant and the ghter of Major-General and Mrs. Edward Stuart-Wortley, of High cllffe Castle, Hampshire, Eng. As Miss Bettine Stuart-Wortley, Mrs. Grant was well-known in London society and also in New York and Washington. Her husband has command of a company on the western front. Queen Mary, despite the many de mands on her time, finds opportunity to pay visits to hospitals and nurseries where little ones are cared for while their parents fight at the front and toil in the nearby munitions factories. Queen Mary- frequently visits the Brit ish nursing homes of which she is a patron. While visiting Union Square to take COLLEGE GIRLS ABOUT New Topcoats of Stunning, Comfy SIX weeks fron now tne colleges will be opening and already the freshman-to-be. the experienced sophomore, the superior and the digni fied senior are thinking about Fall wardrobes. Perhaps nothing will ac tually be purchased for a few weeks but one likes to be ready with decisions when the time comes for a prolonged shopping orgy among the hundreds of alluring wearables from which it is so hard to choose. The senior is supposed to have -a mind above mere clothes; the sopho more and the junior know pretty well what will be required in the way of a wardrobe for work and play days at college; sb it is the freshman-to-be who is really most in need of advice on the important clothes question. It would be disastrous to make serious mistakes, and a girl who has been through high school or preparatory school knows that it is quite as bad to be overdressed . as not well enough dressed, among a lot of other t girls. There are a few things the college girl must have, to take her proper place among her mates and to fall heir to her share of . fun in college doings; though of course the little freshman will not require as many formal frocks and evening dresses as the older girl. established in college life. Topcoat or Tailleur la Question. There is no question which a college girl needs most, a topcoat or a tailored suit- The coat she must have; the suit she may have, and she will find it rather agreeable to alternate the cum bersome coat with a dainty suit upon occasions. Usually the college is situ ated in or near a town or more or less ambitious size, and one Is not always running around a campus. Social affairs demand something a little more formal than a rough and ready topcoat.- and there are week end trips home, too. Altogether, an attractive tailleur will be a useful item in . the wardrobe. . Such a suit, kept fresh and in good condition and ac companied by special sacred accessor ies, such -as hat and veil, buttoned boots and unmarred gloves, should see its possessor through the college year or at least until Easter vacation. Suits 'for young women have the long, straight lines that are favored this year, with coats falling quite to the knee and a pleated or plain, rather, skirt beneath. Sometimes there is fur trimming on collar and cuffs, but many of the more exclusive suits are without fur trimming and will be worn with handsome separate furs in muff and neckpiece combinations. Many of the suit coats are in uneven length, that is, panels at the sides may hang much lower than the front and PERFUME TABLETS GIVE TOUCH OF LUXURY TO SUMMER BATH Toilet Water May Be Used in Lieu pf Regular Preparation and Result Is Increased Enjoyment From Ablutions in Torrid Weather. FOR some reason or other a per fumed bath on a hot Summer day seems more refreshing than any other kind, and in Winter the luxurious sen sation imparted by a daintily perfumed bath is -not half as delightful as in sultry, torrid weather. A few drops of any good toilet water will give fragrance, and a suggestion of fresh daintiness to a bathtub of water. Better yet is a bath tablet, which dissolves readily and imparts a I most agree-.ble fragrance to the water. la look at the "recruits," Miss Garrison I -1 I inspected the model kitchen gardens; j. -A 1 which' have been laid out by the Park K Commissioner and gave a demonstra- ' v I1 $ tion of what she has learned of gar- S."' x Jf xl dehlng on her farm in Northern New t X ' York this Summer. f . f'""! Irene Bordoni, a lithe-limbed young French actress who is now appearing in New York, has sued her husband for divorce and brought the name of Gilda Darthy into the case. Miss Darthy is a French actress who has been in this country for two years. Recently she took part in a Red Cross charity at the home of Mrs. Arthur Curtiss James in Newport. Maggie Teyte, prima ' donna of the Chicago Opera Company, is singing in the season, of Summer opera being giv en in New York. "Tait" was her name ARE NOW THINKING WHAT THEY SHALL SOON WEAR Lines Are' Appealing Separate Skirts Sport Coats Will Be Seen on Campus. back of the garment, and skirts have a dignified length Just over the top of the buttoned walking boot. The Win ter boot, as perhaps you know, is to be lower than last year's model. Seven inches is height approved by Uncle Sam for boot tops, and all the new boots for formal wear in or out doors are of the buttoned type. Topcoats Show Straight Silhouette. The new topcoats are simply stun ning with their bulky cut that is cun ningly chastened into graceful lines by some clever trick of cutting the 'mate rial Sometmes a belt 'helps to give the long, flat line that is considered so ad mirable. These new coats make no pretense of defining the waistline, but somehow or other' one is sure there is trim slenderness under the big coat so beautifully does the material fall from shoulder to skirt hem. Even on stout figures the new coats seem to suggest slender lines. Fashion is kind to large figures this year, and the new sveltine idea in dress is kinder still, adapting current styles by a sys tem of right proportions for even the stoutest women. But fortunately for the college girl she is seldom troubled about difficulties in the way of fit. Everything looks well on her slender youthfulness, and she Is going to pick out a stunning, big topcoat of wool velour or bolivia cloth wth a belt dec orated with a huge buckle at the back, slanting pockets over each hip, and dozens of buttons to add emphasis to the swagger .lines of the garment. Campus Coata of For Popular. Fur sport coats are rather a novelty and the girl who can afford one is going to have It for campus wear. For example, there is a dashing coat of ringtail cat with deep hip pockets and trimming of sealskin a wide scarf collar whose end may be tossed over one shoulder, a seal belt with a fur button, seal cuffs and a deep band on the edge, of the coat, which falls Just below the knee. There is an attract ive campus frock, too. a little more informal style than the simple but charming dress for classroom wear. This campus frock for Autumn days is of lightweight wool mixture and haa a pleated skirt and a belted blouse which falls to the hip. The neck of the blouse is cut out in a deep oval, and is edged with stand-up collar of pale gray cloth. The gauntlet cuffs are cloth also, and the belt is of leather. One may select a campus frock in United States regu lation olive drab, in postman's blue, in forestry green. In Oxford gray, or in the new shade or rust, ?iicu is, n rather vivid, extremely smart. Plaid Froclca Are for Claaaroom. The college maid, like her little sis ter, the schoolgirl, is going to. wear a There, are 12 little tablets in the box and each one insures a bath delicately and delightfully perfumed. And the perfume lingers on the skin for some time afterward. The Dominent Idea. Mrs. Fathuna "I am going- to Palm Beach this Winter. It's a perfect Garden of Eden." Mrs. SllmmunB-r"Why. I Imagined It wan -more dreaay than that!" From "Pun and Fri'tic, in the People's Horn Journal. in her old home In Ireland, but when she went to Paris to study ani after ward to sing, she found that this was "Tah-eet" to the French so she changed the spelling to one to which the French could give the pronunciation to which she was accustomed. for Daily Wear Are in Vogue -Fur deal of plaid this season. The. new plaids are too delectable to be passed by, with their stunning patterns .and colors. There are whole frocks of plaid and smart separate skirts of plaid. The college maid will need several separate skirts; two, say for classroom arid campus wear, a dainty satin skirt for dinner wear . with crepe and silk blouses, and a mohair skirt. for general wear under the. topcoat.. Blouses are of voile, georgette, soft silk and cotton stuff, crepe de chine, madras and linen, and many of the finer models have filet lace trimming. The morning blouse of washable fabric is very trim and neat with a tall stock, collar over which deep points turn down. Satin will be ,much used for after noon and evening dresses this season, and always the .lines are simple, and straight, with graceful drapery on the skirt, at the sides and a. bodice suggest ing youth in its flat, unbroken lines. Hand . embroidery, soutache braiding and tucks in all and- sundry widths decorate these pretty frocks for Fall. WOMEN! IT'S CHEAP! ; USE LEMON JUICE TO MAKb BtAUl T LUMUra In all weathers the skin and com plexion can be kept wonderfully clear, soft and white by the use of this inex pensive lemon lotion, which any girl' or woman can easily prepare. The Juice of two fresh lemons strained Into a bottle containing three ovnees of orchard white makes a whole quar ter pint of the most remarkable lemon skin beautifler at about the cost one must pay for a small jar of the ordin ary cold creams. Care should be taken to strain the lemon juice through a fine cloth so no lemon pulp gets in, then this lotion will keep fresh for months. Every woman knows that lemon juice is used to .bleach and remove such blemishes as freckles, sallowness and tan, and is the ideal skin softener, smoothener and beautifier. Just try it! Get three ounces of orchard white at any pharmacy and two lemons irom the grocer and make up a quarter pint of this sweetly frag rant lemon lotion. It naturally should help to soften, freshen, bleach and bring out the roses and hidden beauty of any skin. Those who will make it a. habit to gently massage this lotion into the face, neck, arms and hands once or twice daily may be repaid with a skin that is flexible and young looking: and a peachlike complexion. Adv. fa fa Si 'v? . L. .iv V' - ' v. r , . n -
