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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 5, 1917)
THE "SUXPAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, AUGUST 5,' 1917. INFORMAL EASE AND DAINTY NEATNESS FOR COLLEGE GIRL SUGGESTED IN NEW FROCK Modest V of Draped Silk Bodice Is Deeper in Back Than in Front Half Dozen Smart Separate Skirts and Many Pretty Blouses Proper For Girl Students. i 0 fevvA r t' III! .A v 1 r rrV' , VHI 111 ifl'l h' If V? " I k sJ t ? lit I I Li " ; Vt: 1 3 "8 . V- ? -I j Cfhl - 'Pn It Jmh - l$j :, , V. , - Ai I l V: 'V M 1 tJ4 Mil 1 v ? v - V '1 I Ml J ' li: &s-rs& It--""- "111 ' 1 I - JTStm , I It Xf ' 1 BUILT according to the new svelt line method which adapts modern fashions to large as well as slim figures, one frcck with its straight, Bimple lines and excellent proportions suggests the informal ease yet dainty neatness which should distinguish the college woman's workaday costume. The frock is of golden brown mohair, with flat soutache braid trimmingr overlaid here and there with small hand embroidered flowers in rich nas turtium tones. The collar has turned back ends faced with tan cloth to match the tan cloth vest. The draped silk bodice Is mounted on chiffon and the decolletage is j. really modest V, deeper at back than in front. This dainty little evening frock illus trates the Paris whimsey of the season j tor combinations of silken stuff with -washable fabrics. The skirt has Xlounces of machine embroidery with pink dots and scallops on a sheer mull frround; and the draped overdress with Its gay little puff at the hip Is of pale pink taffeta. Slippers and stockings match the pink overdress. Every college girl this year will have lialf a dozen smart separate skirts and a. host of pretty blouses to accompany them. With the blue mohair and worsted skirt which partly reveals it self here goes a blouse of fine white voile, tucked in cluster effect down front and back and put together with hemstitching. The long sleeves and square, lace trimmed collar are of au tumn newness. Clever, is it not the notching out of the white hatbrlm to show a blue ribbon bow that matches the separate skirt? Summer Motor Veil Adjusted Like Nurse's Headgear. Patriotic Touch Added by I'isr Bine Silk Stars on Uackgrwuiil of White. PERHAPS it is not quite respectful, but the Summer girl is adjusting her motor veil to suggest the headgear of the Red Cross nurse. Such an en viable and interesting personage is the Red Cross nurse these days; the soul of all femininity yearns to look the part at least, if nothing more. So Summer automobile veils are white, perchance just by coincidence, and, being white, they are thrown over a very close-fitting turban and the fold that comes across the front of the tur ban is carried smoothly back around the sides and pinned fast, under the flowing ends and side drapery of the veil. If this arrangement bears a marked resemblance to the headgear NEW FALL FROCKS ARE DELIGHTFUL TO WOMEN WHO ARE INSISTENT ABOUT JLINES AND CHIC Silhouette Most Desirable Now Suggests Straightness and Slenderness, the Boyish, Undeveloped Figure Rather Than the Much-Curved Feminine. ENTER the Fall frock, all ready to be slipped on with the first cool day of mid-Summer and lend a pleasing suggestion of up-to-dateness not only to one's outward appearance, but also to one's satisfied inner con sciousness. There has been so much talk of rig idly simple styles for wartime wear that a good many women have waited fearsomely for the new Fall models, half expecting them to be wrapperlike affairs buttoned down the front and cut with the engaging proportions of a -gunnysack. But the new frocks are delightful; they are more pleasing Just because they are new than last season's frocks. And they are attract ive enough n themselves to merit the favor of women who are insistent about lines and chic, those two mysterious qualities that are so much more im portant than mere material or color in terest. Straight Silhouette Maintained. The Fall frocks approach the once familiar princess lines very closely. In fact, they are princess frocks, minus the sheath effect always associated with princess ideals. All the new lines sre straight and the silhouette most de sirable now suggests straightness and slenderness the boyish, undeveloped figure, rather han the much-curved feminine figure which was supposed to "set off" a princess model to advan tage. The modern frock eliminates curves at bust and hip and its straight lines are interfered with very little by the inevitable sash or girdle which draws in the soft material above or 9 a V ... ... V-."" "-" a - in jj J.'! im' m "itjpj'wwwwwygcyya wwju.-',i -i f - " T ''''' v'; . 1 i 2 of the Red Cross nurse, the motor maid appears to be serenely unconscious of it. She just wears her white veil as she likes and finds most convenient; that is alL A new white motor veil is given a patriotic flavor by big blue silk Btars below the natural waistline Just enough to relieve the silhouette of any sug gestion of clumsiness or angularity. Sometimes the skirt is attached to the bodice two inches or so below the waistline and a narrow sash is drawn around the unfitted bodice at the waist never snugly, but Just enough to show that the figure is really trim and shapely and not "straight up and down." A frock of this type is of black satin with a panel running from the neck opening to the edge of the skirt. The bodice, fastening at either side over the panel with covered buttons, is at tached without gathers to a rather deep yoke and falls in unfitted lines to the hip. Here the tunic is shirred on. and the tunic also buttons to the front panel, giving a long line from neck to ankle. A narrow sash of the material passes around the waist, crosses at the back and comes around to tie loosely at the front, over the panel. This frock has coat sleeves with turned-back cuffs of white wash satin and a turnover collar of the white satin finishes a. V-neck opening. At the edge of the tunic is one of the new, very deep hems, turned up 12 Inches on the outer side and then stitched in rows and rows with black silk. Of course one expects a satin frock to be stitched with silk in such a conspicuous place as a turned-up hem, but equally important is silk sew ing in the seams and all minor details of making. Most ready-made frocks now show silk sewing, for women have learned to be fussy about this little pointafter trying experiences with frocks whose stitching faded or made puckery breadths by shrinking in dampness but now and then one runs " - ' t v: J $ . J - . 1 r ( r FV.V.i.M II '.V.U iPWiii 1 - appliqued in the four corners, and the edge of the veil is hemstitched in matching blue. Gray motor veils seem to be fashionable also. In exaggerated size and length, they float behind ton neaus this Summer like pale mist wreaths against the landscape. across a model sewed with cheap thread, and it is well to be on the look out. The thin woman is glad to see the new pleated skirts; and so is the fat woman. Pleats are always graceful, al ways becoming; the lines achieved with pleats are always .satisfactory. Draper ies have not always been as becoming, but it is wonderful what charming ef fects the frock builders are producing with blende! pleats and draperies. Many of the frocks for Fall show this alternation of pleats and drapery with no apparent detriment to' the straight unbouffant lines now insisted upon by fashion. One notable model of gray faille silk has box pleats at front and back of the skirt, and two layers of drapery at either side, yet the gown is intended for a woman of stout pro portions and has most beautiful, dis tinguished lines on the figure. It was planned according to the new sveltline idea, and so perfect are its proportions, so skillful the arrangement of its dra peries, its .waistline and its trimming details that it makes a stout figure look actually slender. The frocks planned on this new sveltline idea are among the most in teresting of the Fall models. They usher in a new era for the stout wom an who has, heretofore, been obliged to purchase styles planned for slim fig ures and enlarged by several inches in each direction, but utterly out of pro portion for a stout figure. Fat added to the bony structure of the body changes the silhouette radically, and no stout woman was ever a 'size 34" enlarged to the nth degree. But before the ad vent of sveltline methods she had to get along with her badly fitting "sire 44" or do without! A new idea is the embroidering of mohair. This invaluable fabric for be-tween-season wear is very fashionable this year. Of mohair and wool Jersey and not of serge are the French trot about frocks of this season fashioned. Serge is a great extravagance in Paris these days and one feels as guilty wearing it when the soldiers need it for uniforms as American women will soon be feeling about wearing very tall boots, now that the Government has set a ban on boots over seven inches in height, in order to conserve shoe leather for the troops. But if the buttoned walking boot of Fall is lower, the skirt of the Fall frock is longer, so everything is satisfactory from a stand point rf harmony. Naturally, the but toned boot is fashion's choice, both for utilitarian and for formal footwear, for only a buttoned boot looks well In the lower-top style. But one was speak' ing of the new mohair frocks. Attract ive trotabout models have pleated tu nics to the knee, loose bodices with shaped yokes, and bodice and tunic are joined by a wide, smart leather belt, passing under stitched straps. Such a frock, of dark blue mohair, has a deep band of silk floss embroid ery in black and pale buff on the tunic. and cuffs and oblong breast pockets are embroidered to match. A collar of buff chiffon finished the neck. Soutache on chiffon in allover pattern is seen on afternoon frocks of more formal type. Some of these dresses have the Turkish skirt, with a "cuff' at the edge and drapery caught to this "cuff" here and there. Bridge Apron Is Newest Society Fad. Article Are Provided by Hostess 'With Pocket for Tally. THERE is a use for every apron now, and every apron. has its special use. The latest is the bridge apron, which is quite the fad at informal afternoon card parties. A bridge set includes a large square of linen to go over the card table and four linen aprons, all finished at the edge in colored crochet or hand-embroidered scalloping. The table square has tapes at each corner to be tied to the edge of the card ta ble, and the aprons have ribbons to tie about their wearers' waists and pockets across the front for the safekeeping of tally, pencil, scorecard, etc Women who have their war kitting always with them and knit a row or two while acting as "dummy" during the progress of the game can slip their knitting ball into the apron pocket. Good table cloths for the porch, when breakfast or luncheon is served out thsre, can be made of Indian head linen. - Mark rather large scallops around the edge of the cloth .with a thimble or small spool and embroider the scallops by hand with heavy em broidery cotton. Luncheon cloths of Indian head, hemstitched and Initialed, are really very good looking and strike the economy note, now that pure linen is so distressingly high in price. Charming also for the luncheon table are strips of blue and white Japanese cotton toweling, which may be had in ten-yard lengths for a trifling cost. M.-iko two strips of the blue and white cotton, crossing them at the center of the table under a glass bowl of nastur tiums. With blue and white china and tall glasses of amber iced tea, you have a delightful color scheme for a, warm midsummer noon. , Pickled and Spiced Fruits Appeal to Many People. Recipe for Cnrranta Has Come Dot From Revolutionary Days. PICKLED and spiced fruits appeal to some people more than the cloying sweet of preserves and jams. The good housekeeper -puts up preserved straw berries, cherries and peaches in their season, and a goodly number of jars of jelly, for the furnishing of tooth some sweets next Winter, but it is well to have also a fair supply of pickled and spiced fruita to give zest to the meat course after the time of fresh salads has gone. Here is a recipe for old-fashioned spiced currants which has come down from Revolutionary days. And the best of it is. the pickle needs no sealing, a covered stone crock will be all that its necessary. Four pounds of currants, washed and well drained. Add two tablespoons of cinnamon, hree tablespoons of cloves, one teaspoon of salt, two pounds of brown sugar and one cup of vinegar. Put on the stove and when boiling allow the mixture to cook for 20 min utes, stirring constantly so that It will not burn. When partly cooled pour into a etonn crock and keep in a cool, dark place until needed. The spiced currants should be dark and thick in consis tency. If it is preferred not to havi the spices scattered through the pickle, they may be placed in a cheesecloth bag during the cooking process. "Visiting" Set of Toilet Be longings Is Dainty. Each Article Has Seal of Parisian Approval, and Will Do Honor to Guestroom of Moat Fastidious. Dreaainic Case for Overnlicht Ijae. WHEN one goes avisiting, one tucks into trunk or suitcase a special "visiting" set of toilet belongings; just as one takes a specially charming negli gee and one's very best nightie for a sojourn in the dainty guestroom pre pared in honor of one's arrival. Here is a weekend "visiting" set of beauty paraphernalia, distinguished enough to be arranged impressively on the guestroom dresser, since every thing in-the set came from Paris and has the special daintiness and cachet of French beauty trifles of the sort. The equipment includes a decorated jar of vanishing cream, a square box of face powder, a round box of dry rouge and a cake of soap. The box covers have scorn handles in green gilt and the decorations are in green and black on heavy cream paper. The cake of soap is green to match. ii i t jt hi " tf ' . f'i ! t T SUCCESSFUL APARTMENT FURNISHING BECOMES QUESTION OF MAKING MOST OF LIMITATIONS Extreme Care in Selection and Arrangement Is Necessary Many Schemes of Decoration 'Attractive in Pictures Are Found Impossible. O i d II si-"!" , -fn v ; HrJ I ! f 1 r a (Copyright. 1916. by Good Furniture Mag azine, all rights reserved.) DESPITE . the fundamentally arti ficial conditions which confront the furnisher of an apartment, much, may- be done to mitigate these conditions and because the problem is a difficult one it is distinctly inter esting.' Also, because it is a problem, it calls for a considerable amount of care in the selection of furnishings, and considerable foresight if a future home in the country or suburb is contem plated. Perhaps it should have been stip ulated at first that we are speaking of the average or "moderate" apart ment. Apartments renting from $3000 to J4000 a year, and upwards, are a very different story, and present very different furnishing problems. They usually show, in varying degrees of in terest and merit, how much money may be spent in furnishings. Such, however, is not the purpose of this ar ticle. living-Room Is Keynote. In considering the average apart ment we must contend firstly with a comparative smallness and fewness of rooms. Many schemes of decoration which have seemed attractive in pic tures or in memory are found to be quite impossible. Successful and at tractive apartment furnishing becomes a question of making the most of lim itations. In the compass of an article which is as much restricted for space as the average apartment-house floor plan, the most beneficial outline of sug gestion may best be made to proceed from one room to another, assuming, for the sake of being definite, that these consist of a living-room, dining room, two bedrooms and a maid's room, besides the kitchen and bath. One expects to find the keynote of the apartment, the reflection of its oc cupant's character, in the living-room, and it is this room which may best be made to express some of the atmos phere of a home. Its color should be harmonious walls, rug. furniture and hangings all in conformity. The furniture need be of no specific style or period the im portant consideration is one of creating an impression of domesticity.- The presence of books will aid in this, and for tfce apartment-house (which is rarely a place of permanent abode) the sectional type of bookcase is to be recommended. ' There should be as large a reading table as space will per mit, as well as a few really comfort able chairs. To make up for the usual absence of a fireplace, lamps with "warm" colored shades of red or yel low or orange silk should be selected to create, in the evening, a "firelight" Impression in the room, a certain re poseful mellowness. Desirable Effects Sought. Other than accommodation for books, a good reading table is the most im portant piece in the room and a few home-like chairs: selection may be al lowed considerable range. If there be a piano, there will be room for little else. A phonograph "fits in" almost anywhere, as do various useful and at tractive bits of "incidental'" furniture, such as tea tables, magazine rack, rec ord cabinets and a small writing desk. A desirable effect may often be had by introducing at least one piece of furni ture of some unusual degree of interest a piece of red or black lacquer a decorated piece or a richly carved cab inet. Every one such piece may save a room which is well but uninterestingly furnished from the sad fault of being commonplace. Since the average apartment is not bless d with too many windows, hang ings should be selected according to the amount of light in the room. Printed chintzes are sometimes pleasantly ap propriate, or other lightweight ma terials in yellow or tan or light blue. The rug in a room which does not re ceive much light should not be of a dark tone, for such rugs absorb light and tend to lower the key of the whole scheme. As the dining-room usually opens from the living-room through a wide doorway, there should be maintained some agreeable relation of color scheme between the two. The scheme may often be attractively kept identi cal in the two rooms, giving a sense impression of one large room, though in some cases a variation is desirable. A harmonious relation, however, is es sential. DlnlnK-Itoom Often Problem. . The furnishing of the dining-room is often, a problem. In many cases the room is too small to admit the usual matched suite table, chairs, large side board, serving table and china closet. If one contemplates eventually moving to a house, it is a mistake to acquire only part of a matched suite which, in a few years' time, might be difficult or even impossible to complete. The living-room furniture can always be "worked in" to the future house, since it consists of odd pieces. Why not fur nish the apartment dining-room with odd pieces? Many distinctive and un usual arrangements will be found most attractive. The table may be a large gate-leg destined later for a corner of the living-room, or for the dreamed-of "breakfast-room"; the chairs a selec tion of simple rush-seated chairs of good design which will do later for use in upper halls and bedrooms. The side table may be a lowboy, a console or drop-leaf, any of which 'will fit in readily in- hall or living-room of the house, while the sideboard may consist of a larger console or a sofa table, with a long, horizontal mirror or a large picture hanging over it. The household china and linen, for the time being, may be kept in the capacious built-in dresser,, which forms one of the very few convenient provisions of the apartment. The bedrooms, - unfortunately. - are I - 4 1 . - ---v-rn ,N An If one ia so fortunate as to possess a fireplace in the living : atmosphere will be created by grouping the furniture JT'j "V The use of inexpensive .dd pieces produces individual charm and gives . the dining room the appearance of greater size. " 1 'ii ' f ill In n i t i j' " .w iJ l. ' - i - --i'i , ia-r;,nriir t ixn Jisaw MiiaisiasnBsfc f -MT- i m lwaner.triifl1ilifiiiffliimirrnfci In this room pleasant curtaining has made the most uf . window on a. disagreeable light court. usually quite small, but modern furni ture designs offer many attractive pos sibilities, even though there may not be room for the complete suite. The bedroom essentials of light and cheerfulness are often attained by the use of gay figured chintzes, the same material being used for curtains, chair cushions and beneath plate-glass dress er and table tops. Perhaps a bedspread and bolster covers may be made, as well, and slip-covers for the chairs in Summer. A word about wall papers may be taken as applying throughout the apartment. A paper with a conspicu ous figure or pattern always makes a room seem smaller, so that plain tones or, in the bedrooms, a vertical self-tone stripe of gray Is most advisable. Maid's Room Ia Simple. The maid's room presents no very great problem, but if more thought were given to making it a bit cheerful and "smart" looking, the time-honored joke of the ever-departing maid might lose some of its reality. There is usu ally but one window, and for this a dollar or so expended in a cheerful chintz will do wonders; the same chintz, perhaps, being used to cover a chest for the odds and ends, and for the curtain of the shelf which usually serves as a hanging space. A brass bed is neat and cleanly, a comfortable chair and a reading light are humane considerations, a chest of drawers a necessity, and an inexpensive triple glass dressing table a stimulus, per haps, toward keeping up a desirable "smart" appearance. Perhaps the usual failure to attrac tively furnishing an apartment is due to mistaking it for a house. The re sult is, naturally, an expression of nei ther. An apartment is not a house, and its peculiarities of space and room arrangement demand special considera tion accordingly. The problem is more difficult than that of furnishing a house and results depend upon the un derstanding of existing possibilities and, even more, of the inevitable limi tations of the apartment. Apricot Is Fashionable Tint in Lingerie. Pleata In Skirts, Are Xeeeasary to Autumn Smartness; Moongla Silk Is Made for Dancing Frocks, APRICOT is the fashionable tint in lingerie now. New combinations of chemise and pantalon from Paris are of apricot crepe de chine with hem stitching in black, frills of pleated black net and tiny black velvet bows. Many of these garments fasten at the back, for new frocks are flat and straight over the bust and button or ribbon fastenings beneath might spoil the flat line. There are special com binations for stout figures, built along the sveltline idea so that right pro portions and graceful lines are pro duced on the overdeveloped figure as is never the case when ordinary garments in enlarged sizes must be resorted to. - A chemise and pantalon ; ii 1 ' room, a home-lke around it. us 1 combination of the sveltline type has the pantalon attached to the upper gar ment at the hipline, and the combina tion is of apricot silk crepe with plisse frills of net in black. Pleats one simply must have now. In one's skirt," to be smart and up to the Autumn moment. All the new frocks and separate skirts are pleated from the belt.' though there are many ways of arranging these pleats and often the pleats alternate with . long, bur noose draperies that fall in soft folds below the hip. There are even com binations of side pleats, box pleats and draperies in the same skirt. When a material is too soft to look well pressed into crisp pleats, the' pleats are left to fall softly in unpressed effect: but gathers are observed less and less as the Summer wanes. Lovely . frocks of moonglo silk in shlmmery tints are being noted at Sat urday night dances, and the soft, grace ful silk draperies seem to be replacing floating skirts of tulle and net in fa vor. There are many white dancing frocks, of moonglo silk and of satin, and a classic simplicity of draped lines lends these white evening frocks much. di"nitv. SUFFERED TERRIBLY WITH SKIN TROUBLE CUTICURA HEALED All Over Body and Face. Burned and Itched. Scratched and Became So . Irritated Hadto Remove Clothing. "I suffered terribly for years from a breaking out and an awful burning and itching sensation all over my body and lace. ine itcning was so intense that I scratched un til my body became so irri tated that I would have to remove my clothing thre or four times a day. I could not work when the weather was warm and I could not rest at night. If I became heated I seemedtobeworse. "A friend advised me to use Cuticura Soap and Ointment, as they had healed her of a skin irritation. I immediately purchased the Soap and Ointment and now I am completely healed." (Signed) Mrs. R-. A. Lasater, 11 12-1 1th St., Denver, Colo. While Cuticura works wonders in most cases of skin troubles its proper ties are so mild and so delicately com bined that it is also ideal for every-day use in the toilet, bath and nursery. For Free Sample Each by Return Mail address post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." Sold everywhere. Soap 25c. Ointment 25 and 50c. ) 4
