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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 29, 1917)
6 THE SUNDAY O REG ONI AX, PORTLAND, JULY 29, 1917. LITTLE BLACK SATIN MODELS ARE FAVORED BY OLD AND YOUNG, STOUT AND SLENDER One Frock Described Has Snowy Collar and Cuffs of White Washable Satin Which May Be" Removed for Launder ing Buttoned Walking Boot or Buttoned Cloth Gaiters Are Much in Evidence This Season. 1 Cx s if A ) J5-. I i)zVMa,fJ'jv V-l$Ni F i f TjLtxi meted out. I should here state that t v. fc- v tlba$. Z- 'i the grame -was for heavy stakes. 25 MMMaBaHaaHBrW' E;''. 'iSt cents a point. In the words of Miss " t s ' K J Irwin, only men who are "mighty good t faf "i.i ' " ' J players or mighty big fools" ever play Jjrc S'yjfT . "-I'll 4 L' for such stakes. or-CJT ?cr j-rscr L- Tne hand was as follows a very in- J v Jt- ' -' Jf teresting Hand from a Diacung stana.- 1 "ww i -r "?,,-.' f point; JT I J9 4 3 2 if- ' In for the four master diamonds. On tricks E. 6 and 7 he threw three of his clubs and as the result of his play made all tricks but one. The flagrant unfairness of the re voke and its underlying motive were so palpable that there could be . but one opinion concerning it. Even .the most charitably disposed were forced ts admit that it was a deliberately worked-out scheme to save himself a much bigger loss. Someone has since told of a case quite similar, where the revoking player made no bones of .the fact, but rather boasted of hla sagacity and the ability to reduce losses in so smooth and clever a way. He maintained that as the laws establish a revoke penalty and the adversaries are thus permitted a redress, a revoke made voluntarily is entirely lawful. Further, that where penalty is fixed, it becomes optional with a player whether or not he will incur it voluntarily; that if the adver saries had no redress, a revoke made voluntarily would come under the head of cheating, but that as it is no stigma whatever should attach to it. Were auction and kindred games played on this basis and a player felt himself lawfully entitled to make a revoke or to infringe in any manner upon the laws, when it suits his In terests to do so, conceding redress to the adversaries and thus salving his conscience by the mere payment of a penalty, they would soon lose the high chacater they now enjoy and degen erate into gar.ts where the more un scrupulous the methods employed the greater o:ie's chances of success. There surely is a fundamental law underlying Infringements of such nature which no honorable or right-minded player can feel ho dares to disregard, looking at the case, from the standpoint .of his reputation as a player and as a man. LIBRARY OFFERS GREAT OPPORTUNITY FOR EXPRESSION OF INDIVIDUALITY IN FURNITURE Creation of "Atmosphere" Is Especially Important and Color Scheme Should Have Good Deal to Do With Selection of Articles Jarring Notes or Discord Must Be Avoided. Boots for American Women Limited to Seven Inches. "War Boots" Som DaT May Be Famous an Tax on Tea. NEAT as a pin and chic as Jt can be is a frock of black satin with snowy collar and cuffs of white washable satin; and the best of it is that the collar and cuffs can be re moved easily for necessary freshening. The straight, graceful lines, following the fashion for Autumn and also the clever sveltline ideal which adapts modern modes to all figures, should be becoming to even a stout woman, for ty means of the knotted sash the frock can be adjusted gracefully at the waist line on any figure, Covered satin but . tons, rows of silk stitching and fringe and beads on the sash end, furnish, the trimming. Here again in a pleated skirt and apron tunio the straight, simple sil houette that Paris now decrees, is em phasized. This frock is built of dark brown worsted in hard twisted weave, and the embroidery is in gold, nastur tium red and black silks, Carrying out the color scheme, the collar is of ecru satin with a border of golden brown darning stitch done with silk floss, and buttons are of brown bone flecked with grllt. Both the skirt and tunic are pleated and the skirt just covers the upper edge of a buttoned walking boot - or buttoned cloth gaiters. The latter promise to be more fashionable than ever this Fall. Besides the three materials men tioned above, there is also a collar of broadcloth, pinked at the edge, and pilk tossels afford an extra trimming touch, bleeves and skirt are of black satin; jumper, tunic and sash of black wool jersey, the jumper embroidered all over with gold-colored soutache, and the soutache design is carried down one side of the slashed tunic. The broadcloth collar is in old gold shade. matching the tone of the soutache em broidery. Summer Afternoon Frocks of Pink Voile Are Pretty, Stnnnlnar White Talllenrs Are Made . Attractive fc.ven on Stout 'Woman, (jTT WAS Dick Whittington'B cat. was J. it not. who wore the wonderful seven-league boots, and acquired there by a place in history? Not with seven league boots, but with seven-inch boots, will the American woman win a place In the history of this war of the nations. Some day. perhaps, "seven inch war boots" will be as famous as the tax on tea, which every schoolroom chronicles. "How much lower the tops of shoes are!" women are exclaiming, as they look at models of Autumn footwear dis played in shop windows. "Probably it is because skirts are going to be long er.' And that is an some oi incm know nhout it! Skirts, are longer, to be sure, but maybe that is Just a happy coincidence. Boots are less tall for more serious reason because of a stern decree of the United States Government, no less! In. these grave times, when all resources must be conserved for the feedinir. housing and clothing of our trooDs at the front, shoe leather is valuable thing, and with thousanas ana thousands of men requiring shoes, the exaggerated boot top, purely an item of vanity and fashion, is too frivolous a matter to consider. So Uncle Sam has set a regulation height limit for feminine footwear, and seven inches marks that limit, the measurement being from the extreme top of the boot at the back to tne point where the heel is set on. uncie cam has reallv been very considerate, too. The new height is graceful and pleas- ng. and the button hoot for .rail is very trim and smart. The Autumn foot coverine- might have been given a iie or six-inch height, which would not have been nearly so graceful and smart. Seven inches allows for 14 but tons', and that is surely a fair allotment for anv boot! Buttoned the new boot must be. however, to look just right in proportions.' and the new models fof Fall wear are almost mvariaDiy in ine buttoned style from observations made, at least, in the shops where ex clusive foot coverings are sold. PRETTY frocks for Summer after noons are of pale pink voile, A few tucks !n the gathered skirt, a surplice bodice with elbow sleeves, a white embroidered net fichu and net sleeve frills,, a sash of pale pink rib bon," and, behold, the daintiest little afternon frock imaginable at almost no expense at all. The beauty of these little pink costumes is that when one or two launderlngs have stolen the delicate pink color away, a dipping in "pink water" will restore the frock to pristine beauty. There are preparations to be had at every drug store which will make "pink water" for the redipping of frocks, blouses and lingerie, of one may cut pink crepe paper into bits and color the water to just the right shade of rosiness. All voile or wash able silk dresses in dainty shades should be sewed with silk, and this point should be made sure of when buying such a frock, for in washing s?e?Ss j&S'crcrA SersT je- s- srrr Isroy- or redipping the costume one is never sure what will happen to cheap thread. It almost certainly fades in ordinary laundering and in redipping in pink or any other color is likely to take on a violently clashing shade. Now that white Is so fashionable for street wear, even in town, the stout woman is concerned lest this dainty and desirable Summer garb will In crease her too ample proportions, in effect at least. But there is a" new standard for "stouts." as women of larger than average measurements are disrespectfully called in trade parlance, the sveltline standard; Since manu facturers of feminine apparel have been persuaded to treat garments in the large sizes from a new standpoint, and with artistic perception, and since "good lines" has become the fetish in preparing such garments, the stout woman has discovered that stunning white tailleurs are for her as well as for her lithe and lean sister. The white suits in linen, in tussah and in mohair are charming and the sveltline iuspired models for large women are so well cut and so graceful that one is Impressed ' with dignity, distinction, presence, rather than- with any sug gestion of over-ample proportions. 10 7 6 4 2 4KQJ11653 A K Q 10 8 6 5 10 9 6 3 3 A Z, the dealer, started with "one heart." A passed. Y. in the hope to shut out an informatory bid from B. went to "two hearts." In this, how ever, Y was disappointed, as B called two spades." A, who held beautiful assistance for his partner at a spade trump, called three spades. x, whose hand was quite similar in make up to A's, . said "four hearts." to which B promptly responded with "four spades." Though his own hand assured seven tricks only (he counted upon the 10 of diamonds as being ultimately good for a trick), his partner had shown at least two tricks, and his honor score, 72. would, he reasoned, more than offset the possible failure of his con tract by one trick. Z. who had cause to credit his part ner with more than two tricks and who had reasoned much the same as B regarding his honor score, went to "fiv hearts." A went trf "five spades.' Y to "six hearts." A doubled and Y redoubled. Both Z and Y expected A to lead spade in response to his partner's bid. Y counted upon Z's trumping the trick in his hand, and then utilizing any further spades he (Z) might hold by leadine- them and allowing him to ruff. He thus counted upon making several of his trumps separately from his part ner's. Z reckoned upon winning the spade trick with his ace. at once ex i..tiT,ir th aHversA trumns and then utilizing, the rest of his own and jiost Expensive Railroad In WrorId dummy's hands as developments migui seem to make pedient. Club Lrad Is Helpful, A, however, reasoned the situation from an entirely different standpoint. He himself held five spades and his partner had shown five or more, thus making 10 or more In their two hands. This being so. one of tne opponents doubtless was void of the suit and counting upon the ability to ruff. He was further strengthened in this belief IIOt'SEWIFELY HIST. Rhubarb is one of the best Spring tonics. Workers should always relax and rest before eating. French fried potatoes should always be salted after frying. The waxed-paper drinking cups can be used for gelatin molds. All fruit salads should be tnorougn lv chilled before serving. A bread with nuts ana cnoppeu prunes in it is very wholesome. Before cooking rice, grease ue ja" anrt the rice will not stick. Anv form of brown breaa, pretty nearly, is preferable to white bread. Aromatic spirits or ammonia win re move iodine stains lrum m uiiimo. Kruit should never ne classed as i luxury it is emphatically a necessity, To banish roaches use equal pans of Dlaster of paris and powdered sugar. If you keep cnickens in a inan iuh be sure to give them plenty oi green food. The. most expensive railroad in th told in the March Ameri ar. Mairminp. is the Garfield and Rine-hnm Railroad that carries ore t tha s-ie-antic cooper mine oi u. - locHini? at Blnsrham. Utah. It cost lano C00 a mile and is all tunnels and rr-oction Tt was built for the sole pur pose of insuring an adequate supply oi ore lor tne mm. Softening; Flannels. . ..... i t .. . . . .1 t V.. wa t A by the fact that he held but one heart a n a , wa.ed will and. in accordance with the doctrine of In which baby flannel, are ;a HUllCU HiCUt. o LAST week I gave an example of an unwitting revoke made by a player, who, notwithstanding that It passed byunnoticed, was never theless covered with confusion on account-of it. I use the word "unwit ting" advisedly, as there are cases on record where revokes have deliberately been made in order to save an im pending loss which would amount to considerably more than the loss at taching to the revoke. A case of this kind has just been brought to my notice, a case which has recently occurred in one of the prom inent Eastern clubs and has aroused widespread comment and discussion. As a result the question has arisen as to whether In such case the adversaries have not some equivalent redress, whether the laws do not provide some punishment sufficient to meet the of fense and serve as a deterrent to play ers who might -be disposed to adopt such course. The answer is that there is not; that restrictions and laws, with the penalties attaching to their in fringement, have been framed not for "crooks" or with the intent to prevent dishonest practices, it being presup posed that none such will be attempted, but to serve as a safeguard to a game founded on a scientific and solid basis and supposed to appeal only to players of innate honor and honesty. Hevoke Coats Friendship. Thee revoke in this case cost the man making it the friendship and re gard of the three other players at the table and most likely his member ship in the club. Aside from this the affair has been given wide publicity and no attempt has been made to con ceal the name and Identity of the of fender, so when these factors are taken into consideration, to say nothing of his remorse of conscience (if. indeed, he possesses a consicence), it would almost seem. in this particular' instance. as if punishment sufficient had been probabilities, when you are short in suit, some other player also is liabl to be short in suit; when you are void of a suit, someone else is liable to be void of a suit. The great danger. A realized, was in the declarer's getting in the immediate lead, so as the spade lead would doubtless accomplish this. he departed from the usual custom of leading one s partner s suit, and in stead led his king of clubs. This lead, he thought would also serve the pur pose of giving him a look at dummy (which, in view of dummy's high bid ding, was of more than usual impor tance) while he still held the lead Two tricks only were needed to de feat the contract, and the club suit undoubtedly offered the best assur ancn of securing these two. The club lead was precisely what Z did not want the one lead for which h was totally unprepared. Dummy, as well as himself, he found, held four clubs and was therefore compelled to follow to four rounds of the suit. unis. he quickly computed, meant a loss of three tricks, aside Irom tne one con stituting the opponents book. These tricks, at the rate or zuu poini trick, would mean a loss of 600 points, or, at 25 cents a point, 150. The only way. therefore, he found, to save him self and reduce his losses to the mm imum was to refuse to follow to the ninhi in other words, to make a vol untary revoke. Apparently the moral status of the play did not 'phase him in the least: his one and only thought was' to reduce his losses. The revoke, to be sure, would cost him 100 points and he would be debarred from scoring on the game save for his honors. His honor score, however, amounts to 72. so his loss in reality would be simply the difference between 100 and 72. or 9B b. mere bagatelle In comparison ith fhe loss he would incur were the adversaries to win the four club tricks, Hooka la Deliberate. He. therefore, deliberately trumped the club king, led one round of trumps, exhausting the adversaries; at trick S led his ace of spades and at trick 4 his small diamond, putting his partner very hot water and a gooa wnite soap and when lukewarm wash the flannel out, but do not rub soap directly on th flannels. To whiten lannela, mane solution of one and one-half pound shaved white soap, one-third quart am monia and 12 gallons of water. Hs !' 'lb I. t ; i ' i )VVl'rn -I' ! ' ' ' V :fcW. ' 1 J 'CP - e A 1 I "el A large readintr table is essential and-may be made the decorative feature of the room. Tin .-wing chair beside the fireplace is typical of a very popular style. F1 BY ALWYN T. COVELL. (Copyright, 1916. by Good Furniture Maga zine, all rights reierved.) EW rooms in the house offer great er opportunities for the quiet ex pression of individuality than the library. Here may appear the most in timate personal reflection of the own er's personality, and here, too, is the logical place for many of the most in teresting and "livable" pieces of fur niture which are made. It is specially important, in furnish ing a library, to create an "atmos phere," and this should be thoroughly expressive of repose and comfort, for this room is a retreat where one may withdraw from whatever activity may exist in the other rooms of the house. and may read, write or think in peace and quiet. Such is the mental picture most of us have always had of the library. Of course, there are books perhaps lining the walls from floor to celling, or in smaller bookcases. The color scheme should have a good deal to do with the selection of the furniture, since the library, even more than any other room in the house. should be perfectly harmonious. There must be ho Jarring note, no discord to disturb the visual or mental repose. Brown la Appropriate. Perhaps brown is the most generally appropriate color brown for the wood work and furniture, and a dull color for the Upholstery, rugs and hangings. These might be dark blue, dull green or old golden yellow carefully toned in with the brown. Most often one thinks of oak as the fitting wood for the library; oak pan elling and oak furniture, stained a rich dark brown, usually called "Old Eng lish," or with the almost black stain that is called Flemish. In the matter of a rug. a good Ori ental may well be introduced in the library in place of a one-tone rug. but if an Oriental is used, it should be se lected with due regard for harmony with the curtains and -upholstery aud should be dark and rich in tone. In considering the furniture, certain styles Feem pre-eminently suitable. We think, first of all, perhaps, of Jacobean, then of Flemish, Flanders or "Mtion" style. All these are of oak, all are characterized by more or less heavy and substantial lines, all are in har mony with the spirit of this particular room. Let tis consider them in detail, and make something like a selection of pieces. Big Tnble Knnentlal. First, there is the table for we must have a big table for the current mag azines and a few books. Here the Jacobean style serves us well, for there is the "refectory" table long and not very wide-exactiy tne taoie to dick a deep and thickly upnolsterea daven port against. Here already is the cen tral keynote of the furnishing a great table with a davenport against it. be fore the fire. A convenient thing about the long Jacobean table is that it may be had of comparatively reasonable proportions, or 15 feet long, depending upon the size of the room- A suitable and interesting companion piece to the Jacobean table is a long bench, in the same style, to be placed on the other side from the davenport. The chairs in the library, of what ever selected style, must have one property in common comfort. Natur ally we think of those low. deep-seated leather-covered chairs, which do not conflict in style with Flemish, Jaco bean, Cromwellian or "Mission" pieces. Then, too, there are deeply upholstered chairs in dull-toned tapestries, and these may be covered in the same ma terial as the big davenport. It has been happily said that: "A house without books is like a room without windows." BooknMH Depend Upon Tute. The bookcases, the real substance of the library, depend for selection partly upon taste, partly circumstance, and partly on the number of books to be housed. Perhaps one has a special tj.Mii ; .n iujin..iininiini v.u'w',y, 1 .. b '-"" i ' miwyywuww; w. 1 "J !t . . .... - ., .. " , . Every library should contain a number of extremely comfortable chairs hS UwSj, convenient to agreeably shaded reading lamps. Py& Ciyu w.w3eBPiyi"l'W'g!IWWtT-"-'MM"-" v-) ; IPD "-r:V-" ' ; NEW STYLE OF LEATHER BELTS FOR WEAR WITH SPORT SKIRTS Five Buckles to Single Belt Seems Generous Proportion, but Many Waist Lines Are Well Fitted for Them. - BELT DIVIDED AtiAI.XST ITSELF. H ERE is one of the new leather belts for wear with Summer sport skirts or one-piece linen frocks. Five buckles to a single belt does seem a generous proportion, but the little buckled straps at the sides give the belt an extra smartness, do they not? And they give the waistline a more graceful appearance also. Time was when the stout woman could not wear a leather belt: it cu her in two" and emphasized her stout ness: but stout-women frocks of even white and pale colored linen, cut ac cording to the new sveltline standard (which being interpreted means em phasis put on proportion and lin rather than on style or trimming) look well with belts of patent leather o colored leather. And nowadays on may secure a belt In the right length no matter how large one 8 waist meas urement may be. Sectional bookcases will ht practically any available wall space and Can W PUTVIIMACW . u"C i.u, si 9 CAy.inil fondness for the idea of built-in Bhelves 11 around the room perhaps the house is not owned, or an apartment. n which case movable bookcases are more advisable perhaps there are too few books to fill built-in shelves, and these are better placed in movable cases which form part of the library urniture. An essentially American furniture eveiopment is the sections! bookcase an instance where etticieiiey lias been brought into the home. The sec- ional bookcase, built up of uniform units, may now be had in a wide va- iety of styles and finishes, so that may readily be introduced even in a period" scheme of decoration without discord. A feature of the sectional idea, and a peculiarly excellent point that one's shelf space may grow with one's library, while the units are so devised that they may be built up in many different ways to conform o existing wall spaces. Thus they may form a low case under a window, ris- ng twice as high on each side. They may be massed all on one wali, or dis posed about the room a very agreeable arrangement is to place them about hree feet high (three shelf units) all around a room, forming a convenient shelf for pictures, magazines and small objects, and literally wainscoting the room with books. Let us give a brief consideration to styles in library furniture, r irst, the Jacobean a style already noted as ap propriate in its massive and reposeful ines. This may be had in heavy pro portions, suitable for larse rooms, or with its members cleverly lightened and refined by modern designers. Flemish Furniture Ved. Flemish furniture, as a rule, dis plays more carving than Jacobean, is a more ornate expression of Renaissance art, and demands furnishings of rather elaborate kind. Furniture known today as "Flan ders" is of Dutch and Low-country French origin, simple and sturdy in its lines and serviceable in design by all means a suitable style for the library, Being of oak. It is adaptable to dull tones in staining. There are complete library suites in style less known than any of these, and very pleasing the Cromwellian style. There is. too, the graceful yet substantial William and Mary, and even though a library were not fur nished entirely in these, it is interest ing to introduce a desk or gate-leg table or cabinet here and there. Departing from "period" styles in fur niture. there is a wide and very pleas ing variety from which to choose in the different expressions of "craft" furni ture which the have sprung from the original "Mission." Heal "Mission furniture is no longer on the market it fulfilled its "mission" in develop ing appreciation of things simple quaint and honest in place of things meretricious and ugly which were in vogue in the late '80s. Today there is unlimited choice in library pieces in different kinds of "craft" furniture, mostly quite inex pensive, and in excellent taste for the home of moderate means. It is an easy matter to select simple rugs and hang ings for conformity with this kind o furniture always dull-toned fabrics, with little figure or pattern. There I always a reposeful atmosphere abou a room well carried out in this style, , which is still popularly called "Mis sion as an unconscious trmute to its original source. In the matter of small accessory pieces of furniture, the library is spe cially favored, for there are bookracks, book-ends and lamps for the table, small book and magazine stands, humi dors, cellarettes, small tables and stools, most attractive in design, and distinctly contributory to the comfort of the room. The library, in homes where the goddess Nicotine presides is usually tacitly understood to be the moking room, whither retire the men for their cherished after-dinner cigars, so naturally one finds there the smok ing table and cedar-lined humidor. 'eft-haps there is a small gate-leg table for the after-dinner coffee, and later or cards. The library, appropriately furnished. may be said to possess a quality some thing like personality, unlike any other room in the house, and expres sive of the innermost and deepest char ac'.er of the household, and for th moment forgetting our esteemed vis itors "books are the best of friends, the same today and forever." Rami box Bag Popular. A traveling bag displayed next to a gray Jersey sports suit takes the shape of a round hatbox and is about that size. Black leather is used for the binding and handle, while the bag itself is of black and tan, narrow- striped clazed leather. Protect Baby's Skin With Cuticura Soap If mothers would only use Cuticura Soap and Ointment for every-day toilet and nursery purposes how much suffer in? niiht be avoided by preventing little skin and scalp troubles becoming serious. Cuticura Soap is so pure, sweet and cleansing and Cuticura Ointment so soothing and healing, that it is a pity not to use them all the time. Give baby a hot bath with Cuticura Soap, dry and apply Cuticura Ointment to any rashes, irritations, chafing, etc Instant relief usually follows and baby falls into a re freshing sleep. For sample each free by return mail address poFt-card: "Cu ticura, Dept.l3G, Boston." Soldevery where. Soap 25c Ointmen.t 25 and 50c r
