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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 10, 1917)
THE SUNDAY OJIEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE Hi; mn:. SIMPLE FROCKS DESIGNED FOR YOUNG GIRLS TO WEAR AT GRADUATION TIME Clothing May Be Inexpensive or Costly, but Care Is Recommended in Attending to Detail So That Finished Ap pearance Will Not Be Marred. - . ainJT" ! ' ' ' ": ! II j ?,)'( it V"5 ' 'ill i II I I I If Ml t I . r- . . s. t 4 1 ; - W w x T Wftvi2 THE simplicity of a little Irock well suited to Its wearer's youth com mends It. and It is a frock that may be inexpensive or costly, according- to the materials used. . The finest French lawn obtainable and bands of narrow crochet Insertion were used to fashion the pictured frock, and every stitch was set by hand. The waist and skirt fasten .at one side of the center front. Sash and hairbow are of white taffeta ribbon. While more elaborate than, the frock f French lawn, another model Is Just as youthful and Quite as suitable for a 15 or 16-year-old graduate. Val lace and fine orgrandy are combined and the top of the waist is finished by a little inset yoke of lace medal lions joined with narrow insertions. The circular tunic falls over a skirt that Is pleated and pressed crisply, strai&ht lines of the skirt forming an effective contrast with the floating, circular tunic. Elbow sleeves make this summery frock especially attrac tive. Though the material. Georgette erepe, is a bit more luxurious than the lawn or organdy of many gradua tion dresses, the simplicity and glrlish nesa of another costume are to be commended. There is a tailored sug gestion in the lines of the frock, with its pleated tunic, long sleeve and deep collar and re vers. The pleated tunic falls 'from the belt, .but a sash of white ribbon, passed twice around the figure, confines the pleats flatly at the hip. Sash, collar and turned-back cuffs, are of white satin. Such a dis tinguished frock as this is, of course, worn over a silk slip and is sewed out side and in with silk thread. It is a. private school, rather than a high school commencement costume. 1 Be Happy Is Plea. In the March American Magazine a writer says: "Men have been living on this world for many centuries. They have traded in their lives for many dif ferent things fame, money, power. But the consensus of opinion through the ages is that the thing most to be de sired is happiness. No man can be really happy unless his conscience is clear; therefore, fame and too much money either of which usually demand health In exchange are not to be desired. No man can have the highest happiness unless he can feel that he is doing a little good by living, that he Is going to leave the world a bit better after he has gone. Therefore, it pays to bring children into the world and care for them; it pays to be a good neighbor, and a good employer and a good friend." ! Dictates of Fashion Given. Buttonholes bound with a contrast lng color are a fashion feature. Blue stitchery is frequently the only ornament on black taffeta silk. Odd vests sometimes provide all the Interest for a simple costume. The prettiest dresses have used a touch of black which adds richness to any bright coloned frock. " . 7,--- $ . - , . i - -I: ' X 'VI na. WHEN SWEET SIXTEEN TAKES HER DIPLOMA ECONOMY FOR GRADUATING FROCKS PREVAILS THOSE of us who have reached mid dle life look back with something like amazement at the graduating dresses of the '80s and early "90s. Silks and Bating shimmered on the platform of learning when sweet girl graduates tripped up to receive their diplomas; diamonds and pearls flashed on girls' throats and on bodices that covered just as fast-beating hearts as are coyered by modern bodices of girl grad uates; even long trains rustled across the platform in those days of the '80s. ,4-ad the coiffures but over thoae coil- iii III t 111 z III sS v: ill- ! 1 vw l J -S 1 all the elegance deemed necessary to these simple little costumes, though sometimes even white slippers are not permitted, because, in a large city school, there are sure to be pupils who would find even white slippers too se vere a tax In expenditure. In one school in Greater New Tork last year there was an altercation over this ques tion of white slippers which almost ended in tears. The girls had la bored for weeks over their white dresses, dainty affairs of organdy and lawn with tucks set painstakingly by hand, and then came the decree from the faculty that black boots or pumps and black stockings must accompany these enchanting frocks. As more than one disappointed little girl graduate protested, "the whole day was spoiled," and fortunately not many schools are cruel enough to make such an ar bitrary rule for the supreme occasion of a schoolgirl's life. Georgette Crepe Frocks Lovely, Indeed. The girl who graduates from a -pri vate school is not so restricted in her choice of a frock, though in most pri vate schools now elaborate graduating costumes are discouraged and sim plicity insisted upon. While Georgette or white Chinese silk may be worn. however, provided the lines of the frock are correctly Jeune fille, and white kid slippers with silken hose may accompany the costume if its wearer pleases. A lovely graduating dress, Just completed for a maid of 16, is of white Georgette over thin white silk. There is a pleated tunlo over a skirt with the deep hem now fashion able, and a sash of wide, soft ribbon passes around the waist, crosses at the back and comes forward at the hip to tie. in a loose knot at one side. The bodice has long sleeves with narrow turned-back cuffs of white silk, and a deep sailor collar of the silk to which are attached draped revers of the Georgette that cross in surplice effect. A more lovely and girlish frock could scarcely be imagined, but, of course, white Georgette and a silk slip can not be purchased for a song, and the frock is a good deal more expensive than the graduating costume of or gandy or voile, which ths average school approves. - White voile makes a lovely frock for the girl graduate, and the model may be as simple or as elaborate as one pleased. Many of these frocks are trimmed with filet insertions or edg ing, and one very pretty model has a skirt tucked all the way from hem to belt In graduated tucks, a gathered apron edged with filet, falling over the skirt at front and back. The apron at the front falls to the top of the skirt hem; that at the back to the knee only. In selecting voile for a graduating frock, whether the costume is bought ready made or the material is purchased by the yard, be very sure to get pure white voile. A creamy tone will look off color beside the pure white of organdy or lawn frocks worn by other girls in the class. A voile dress will keep its lines better, and launder more successfully, if silk thread is used to sew up the seams and to put in the tucks and hems. Though of cotton weave itself, voile should al ways be sewed with silk thread, and you will discover that the more ex clusive ready-made frocks of this fabric are finished with silk, which gives more distinction of character and better lines a softer silhouette, in other words, to this soft, sheer ma terial. Low-Necked Bodice Not Permissible. Since youthfulness and simplicity are the first requirements for a graduat ing dress, y an extreme decolletage would be in the worst possible taste. The girlish bodice may be cut out in a rounded line or a shallow square, or there may be a little opening in V-shape at the -front and a wide, flat collar at the back. Many of the new graduating dresses have elbow sleeves, short, puffed sleeves coming Just to the elbow' and finished like a child's sleeve, with a band of insertion and a lace frill; but the long sleeve looks smarter, and most of the really distin guished commencement day frocks show the long sleeve. The girl of 15 or 16 wears her graduating dress al most to her ankles this year four inches above the ankle is a good length and for footwear she may have either white buttoned boots or slippers with white stockings. Perhaps the slippers will be prettier with this summery type of frock, the white buttoned boot sug gesting a more formal or tailored cos tume than the little graduating dress of organdy or lawn. With this simple white costume Jew elry should not be worn, though it is difficult to separate the 16-year-old from her wrist watch even for an occa sion. A pearl pin or necklace, perhaps a graduation gift, may be permitted, but any sparkling ornament would be in very bad taste. Gloves are not worn with graduating frocks now, even at evening commencements, and for this reason long sleeves seem best. Summer Girls Wear Ukulele Hat Bands. Red. White and Blue Crochet They Give Patriotic Note. : --it Summer Utrla Wear Ukulele list I Bands. - PHOTOGRAPHS SHOWN OF GROUP OF WOMEN WHO HAVE WON PROMINENCE IN NEWS Elsie Saltus Is Ardent Worker in War Relief Lady Pearson Great Aid to Her Husband in Aiding Blind Soldiers and Sailors Mayor Mitchel's Wife Leading Figure in Relief Work. ST r - X :. ,. . v.. :- .; ? . ; v v- v : x . -v. - Tnft-WifiWi-hiMfr ONE of the preTty society girls of New Tork who is devoting her self to war relief work is Elsie Saltus. She appeared recently at the garden party in Greenwich village. Lady Pearson has been of the great est assistance to her husband. Sir Ar thur Pearson, in establishing relief work for the blind lit England. Sir Arthur, although blind himself, is di recting schools in London where blind soldiers and sailors are taught useful trades. Withoutthe aid of Lady Pear son, however, the work would not have accomplished the good it has, and she has developed great enthusiasm and ability in aiding the movement. m m m Mr John Purrey Mltchel. the pretty wife of . the Mayor of New York, is much interested in all the war relief work now going on in the big city and Is a leading figure in all the en tertainments given for war purposes. Ethel Leglnska, the well-known English pianist, has sued her husband, Rey E. Whitherne, for divorce and named Martha Hedman as co-respon dent. Miss Hedman has sued Leglnska for libel. In his reply to his wife's suit, Mr. Wltherne is unkind enough to inform the public that her real name is not Leglnska. but Leggins. 1 1 K i -PS i f V TOT that they have the remotest X resemblance to the weird sound ing musical instruments of Hawaii called ukuleles, but all the same they are called ukulele hat bands and they are tne rage Just now for sport hats of white felt and panama straw. The bands are crocheted and the colors are extremely bright exactly .what the Summer girl wants for her tennis, sailing or beach headgear. The cro cheted band fastens around the hat crown with two fancy buttons and loops. In red, white and blue crochet they have a patriotic note which an- peais to tnis bummer s sport maid Dar ticuiany. and they seem exactly the proper accessory to accompany a white linen sport suit. red. white and blue knitted tie and white boots with little brass eagle buttons. A parasol of white silk with a border of red and wmte stripes and above it a border or blue sprinkled with white stars, will complete Miss Liberty's ensemble. fures one prefer-, to draw a veil; noth ing is more painful, even in memory, than the coiffure one misguldedly af fected 25 or 30 years age The girl graduate of . today Is not permitted white satin and diamonds. Even If she were allowed to ma-ze such a mistake in taste by over-Indulgent parents, the white . satin would be sternly debarred by the powers that be the faculty. And even if the white satin got by the vigilant eyes of the faculty, the members of the graduat ing class would take the matter in 1 nana, xa most msa scnoois now tile graduating costumes, by a vote of the class, are of the simplest style and material. In many cases the girls do the dressmaking themselves in the sew ing class, which forms part of the school course. ' A certain latitude is given In materials, but no frock may be of silken weave. White organdy, voile or lawn must be the selection, and the class sewing teacher, usually an expert needlewoman, assists with the cutting out- and putting together, though the actual stitches are set by the girl graduates themselves. White sashes, halt - bows ' and footwear ' lend The Wedding Ring. The Summer Is a ray coquette. The red. red rose Is hers. And she dispenses kisses warm To all her worshipers; And Autumn, wild bacchante, sits Beneath a scarlet vine. Inviting- lovers to her side With proffered cups of wine. A chilly spinster. Winter wears Her bridal white, behold! But no admirer yet desires To marry ono so cold. 8o Spring- alone of all the year Trips over vale and hill. And proudly shows her wedding ring. The golden daffodil. -Minna Irvine In the People's Home Journal. There are times when a pint of wit goea tarth.ee than a gallon o( wisdom. Novel Dessert Given. One TInt bread flour, one teaspoonful cream of tartar, one-half treaspoonful soda dissolved in cup of sweet milk; mix together to a consistency. where it may be easily handled, adding more milk if necessary. Form in rounds tne size of a small plate. Fry in deep, hot fat. When cooked cover the top of each with cranberry sauce. Pile on top of one another and serve. Delicious. - 4mv Answers to Correspondents BT LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAXU Or.. May 27. Will you kindly give directions for salted beans? X mean the kind you can put up in Keg's. Thanking; you. MRS. S. G. T. I hooe the following is what you mean. Beans put up in this way have a slightly different flavor from canned beans, being more like picKies man fresh beans. They may, however, be used very well as a vegetable, and the method Is a convenient one when the supply of beans exceeds the supply of Jars. Salted Beans. Use only young, very tender, fresh string beans. Free them from strings, but do not cut. or break them. Blanch by plunging into boil ing water for five . minutes, then into cold water. Drain and spread out to cool. Make a brine "to float an egg. boil it down five minutes, then let cool. Have ready a clean keg (or a crock) and a bag of clean scalded un bleached muslin about the size of the keg or crock. Put the blanched and cooled beans into the bag, place in the keg and pour on them the boiled and cooled brine. Close the bag and put a small wooden board with a weight on top to keep the bag under the brine. The object of the bag is to keep the beans free from the scum which will form. The beans must be immersed well bejow the surface of the brine or they will not keep. When wanted for Berving, soak over night and place in boiling water, boll 15 minutes, drain, rinse in cold water and return a second time to the fire to cook until tender. Then serve in any style suitable for fresh beans. If they happen to be too salt, change the water three times instead of twice. Sometimes they do not need more than one water after a good soaking to freshen them. Of course, these beans would not be served with any kind of salt meat or fish. They may be put up in cans in the brine if preferred, but as the ordinary canned beans would probably be pre ferred by most people, this method is best adapted for use as an "economy measure" to spare cans for materials that cannot be salted. DAYTON. Or., May 29. Dear Miss Tlngie: Would you please publish a recipe for glace fruits, such as you buy In confectionery stores? I am very Interested in your de partment and look In the paper every day, aa I save nearly all your recipes. Why are you not in every day? Thanking you In advance. UHS. H. R S. I fear you will not succeed in mak ing glace fruits "such as you buy in confectionery stores." The process is rather a tedious one and special ap pliances are required not found in the ordinary kitchen.. Candled fruits are easier, but they also require skill and patience. I can give you a trade recipe for glace fruits if you care to write again, but I do not think you will use It. In the meantime you might try your hand at candying some canned pine apple or fresh cherries, as these are easiest to do. The chief thing to re member is to have the fruit to be can died cooked in its own juice or In a little water until perfectly tender, but not broken. Next you add say one cup sugar to every cup liquid, boil up and let stand over night. Next day strengthen the syrup either by adding more sugar or by pouring it off and boiling down. Boil up the fruit and let it stand again. The number of times this is necessary depends upon the size . and density of your fruit. When you find the fruit thoroughly saturated with sugar, so that it is heavy and translucent, drain it, let it dry a little in a warming oven or in the sun, then roll in granulated sugar and store in boxes lined with wax paper. Cherries should, of course, be stoned. The commercial glace or candied cher ries are artificially colored and so are some of the other glace and crystallzed fruits. Many. leaders have reported excellent success with the above directions. Try them anyway before you attempt glaoe fruits. I am very glad you like this column. One reason that it does not appear every day Is that I have not always time to write ,lt. Another Is that it is sometimes crowded out by other matters. Buckles in Fancy Shapes Decorate Fall Frocks. Xew Design of Sport Skirt Capable of Three Changes for Girl on Camping Trip. BUCKLES in odd. fancy shapes are to be much the thing on early Fall frocks and some of the French cos tumes Just arrived for mid-Summer wear show these striking buckles. Usually the buckle is in two iparts In the form of a clasp and in many in stances ornaments of metal swing from little chains that dangle from the clasp. Black horn and silver are a favored combination and filigree effects In an tique silver are popular also. A strik ing clasp of antique silver shows two acorns of exaggerated size, with very tiny acorns swinging from silver chains. e e e Straw motifs on veils are the latest notion, for since hats have aban doned straw as a salient feature, veils have evidently taken it up so that it may still have a place in millinery. A big square veil with a delicate vine pattern and narrow border is decorated in the center with large popples made of fine straw braid appliqued to the veil's mesh. When the veil Is thrown over the head the straw poppies show up well over the crown and front of a small hat. The very small boy will have this Summer a soldier or sailor suit of washable material, the sailor suit in white, with loose blouse and tight knee breeches, and the soldier suit in blue or khaki color, with loose ankle length trousers and a high-collared Jacket buttoning down the front. Epaulets, sleeve-bands and star em broideries on the collar band decorate the soldier suit, and the sailor model has the broad, braid-trimmed collar and knotted tie of the usual Jack Tar costume. Of course the soldier laddie wears a visor cap and the sailor boy a white duck hat with upturned, stitched brim. A new corset for the athletic woman is in the comfortable girdle style with an extension rising three Inches higher than the girdle top at the front a de cided improvement on the stralght around girdle, which is apt to cut into the flesh on any but the slenderest of figures. e e Some confirmed objector has rushed Into print with a letter to one of the New York newspapers demanding why the red. white and blue should be al lowed to decorate balloons for chil dren. This seems rather far-fetched and decidedly unreasonable. If the Summer girl Is allowed to wear natty red. white and blue neckties and shoes buttoned with brass eagle buttons, why in the world should not her small brother rejoice in the thrilling red. white and blue balloon, soaring high and carrying Its stripes and its stars gallantly overhead? There are even rattles for the baby gay, delightful rattles of white pyroxylin painted in red, white and blue, which may be hung by red, white and blue ribbons from the perambulator. Invitingly ready for a groping little hand. Splendid for the girl who will carry only a suitcase, or take only a stoamer trunk to the Summer vacation spot, is a new tailored skirt which has three ways of its own. The first 'way is the way of an ordinary, well-cut sport skirt, opening down the front and equipped with attached belt and large barrel pockets below the hips. This is the skirt for golf, tennis or beach wear In the morning. The second way, the skirt becomes by an artful manip ulation of the overlapped fronts and the line of buttons a divided rwing skirt neat, smart and Just the thing for cross-saddle riding, in a formal bridle path or on a broncho in the Rockies. In its third incarnation the skirt (by yet another trick with the buttons and a drawing up and under the hem) turns itself into a pair of baggy knickers or bloomers, just the thing for climbing, camping or a fishing ex cursion. And, all of these useful skirts fold Into one small space in suitcase) or steamer trunk! When buying a Bklrt for roughing it. however, be Just as particular that It is seamed up with silk thread as you would in the case of a formal tailleur. The roughlng-it skirt has to contend with some hard treatment, to say nothing of Summer mists and showers, and Its seams should be safeguarded against pucker ing by silk sewing which will not shrink. Household Hints. Add a little drop of salad oil to mus tard when it is being made. Not only will it improve the taste, but it will keep It fresh for days. Rub the kettles all over with a cut lemon dipped In salt, then rinse thor oughly with clear water and polish with a soft cloth. An easy way to skin a beet without bleeding it and causing it to lose color la to put it in cold water as soon as it is cooked. Then draw the hand gently down the beet and the skin will drop off without trouble. When scrambling eggs for breakfast add one tablespoonful of fine bread crumbs and one tablespoonful of milk to every beaten egg. Season with pep per and salt and cook In the usual way. By this means stale bread may be used up and one egg will go as far as two. The disagreeable taste of castor oil may be concealed by giving the dose in hot milk flavored with salt and a sprinkle of black pepper. It is neces sary to have the milk warm enough to mix with the oil, or some of it will float on the surface. Castor oil can also be made more palatable by adding lemon juice. Salt and vinegar will remove stains from discolored teacups. Youth's Eternal "Dambitlon. "I am not less ambitious than I was at 20," says a writer in the March American Magazine, "but my ambition is more wise, more intelligent. I have invented a word to describe my mental condition at 20. It is perhaps not a polite word; it will probably never get Into the dictionaries. Yet it does the trick as no other word possibly can. At 20 I was not ambitious; I was dara bltlous. Dambitlon is that ambition which sees nothing in the world but fame, and is ready to sacrifice every where to that end. My dambitlon has been exorcised, not by any wisdom of my own, but by the transforming influ ence of my wife." A dead lion Is better than a live dog for rue making purposes. NO MORE GRAY HAIR! The free trial bottle b MARY T. GOLDMAN'S .HAIR COLOR RESTORER proves how quickly gray hair disappears when this aclentifio restorer is used. Simply applied with special comb; leaves hair clean, fluffy and natural: does cot interfere with washing. Make this test on a lock of hair and yoa will never accept a cheap imitation. Then buy a full sized bottle from your drug-cist or direct from me. Dot be ore that the bottle yon boy U the nal Mary T. Goldman': Send for trial bottle todav ana say wnetner your hair is naturally Clack, dark brown, medium brown or light brown. If pos sible, send a lock la your letter. Mary T. Goldman Goldman Bldg. St. PauL Minn. EttablithedSO Ytart Free Trial U! Bottle 11 New Method Removes Superfluous Hair Roots! Have you "tried everything" for that annoying hairy or fuzzy growth and about gl-ven up in despair? Well, there's Just one thing more to try. and you must try it, because it is the one home treatment that reaches the very root of such troubles. The new process is not to be compared at all with de pilatory, electrical or any other meth od you've ever heard of. It Is different because it actually removes roots and all you see the roots with your own eyes. Just get a stick of phelactlne from your druggist, follow the simple in structions, and if it doesn't do exactly as stated you can have your money back without question. Phelactlne is odorless, non-irritating, and can be used with entire safety you could even eat it with Impunity. It is an in slantaneous method. Adv.' r.
