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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 3, 1917)
TJIZZ SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, - PORTLAND, JUNE 3, -1917. TULLE IS MUCH IN EVIDENCE IF, SATIN IS USED FOR WEDDING GOWN OF JUNE BRIDE Traditional Costume Is Adopted to Modes of the Moment Mechlin Lace, Bordering the Veil, Usually Is Interest ing Feature in Trimming Many, Dresses This Year Have Trains. - . i ; - . . . r- . . - ' & - J- r-'.' . ' ' v' ' '-'i r-,V' . r ' - 1 f.W a. ; ' , - C& 's--'-Z?L :-.' t 4 L . - tfJ'futS' . i S . ' c":f - ''9. : utw W ywMM 8.1 n hi u iKIMIW U Mj ITflf'.1A' : . yi: ,, . : i 5;V?: t;xxjWu.lpJ ' : . '.6 ' 4"" WHEN- satin Is used for the June wedding- gown, much tulle Is employed to give the airy, di aphanous effect" better suited to the Reason than plain, rich material. Ideal Ihougrh the latter be for the Winter bridal costume. , This traditional bride's costume Is adapted to the modes of the moment. The draped skirt and bodice are veiled with long folds of tulle end . the tulle bridal veil floats down over the satin train. Mechlin lace, bordering the veil, is an interesting . trimming feature. Like many wedding veils now, this one is attached at the back of the coiffure and the face is not covered. Many of this year's -wedding dresses Rave' trains of lace instead of the con ventional train of satin and the inno- i --aA; ..." (' vation Is pleasing: for a Summer wed ding, at least. There is a classic sug gestion about this gown of white satin, draped around the limbs: and with the simplest of little dlrectolre bodices. ' 'if $ , t- ' iZ' . . s? , M'l, ; j myyy:y:my y--y made of lace and extending Into short, frilled sleeves. The bride wears her wedding flowers at her corsage Instead of carrying a large bouquet In her hands. Lightly clasped, as she walks up the aisle, small prayer book bound'ln white lum. Is s vel- FINE CREATIONS DEVISED TO MAKE JUNE I WEDDING EVENTS OF ARTISTIC INTEREST Diaphanous Effects in Lace and Tulle Find Greatest Favor Maid of Honor Wears Tints That Intensify Color v Scheme of Bridesmaids' Gowns Bride's Mother Must' "Fit in Picture" Traveling Frock Is Important. have trains made entirely of lace; this fashion has great favor just now and the idea is rather a charming one for a Summer wedding when lace and tulle seem more pleasing- than - yards - and yards of heavy white satin. It Is mar velous how, year after year, the tradi tional bridal robes of 'satin, lace and tulle are made to meet the require ments of a current mode. Every bride looks more or less, in- silhouette, like every other bride for generations and generations that Is the traditional feature of bridal raiment yet every season's wedding gown Is distinctively of that season, and a wedding gown of even five years ago would be hope lessly out of style lor a - bridal . this June. The short, empire bodice . has been noted In several very authoritative wedding gowns of . late. From the raised waistline the satin skirt sweeps down in rich, draped folds, and some times the train is of the satin, some times of lace, the skirt of the gown In front cut ankle length. The bride wears with her golng-away .gown the daintiest buttoned boots she can af ford, but with the wedding gown white satin slippers are imperative. Whether white satin. or lace is used for the wed ding costume, it must be perfect of Its kind and every detail must.be ex quisitely fine and beautiful. Some of the shops have special departments where wedding raiment may be pur chased ready-made.' Here one may find a perfect bridal gown in shimmering wnite satin and filmy lace; here are orange blossom coronets, tulle and lace bridal gowns' draped In the most fash ionable ways: here are . the bride's white silk stockings and satin slippers. ner gloves, even her white vellum bound prayer-book. Cheap Thread in Boys', Suit Causes Poor. Appearance. Pressing Falls to Remedy What Manufacturers Attempt to Save Mm Done. , "I HAVE pressed and pressed Tom my's new suit and It Just won't look right," complained Tommy's mother, holding up the little Jacket and breeches disconsolately for the inspec tion of Tommy's father. "They looked so cunning on him his first real suit of clothes from 'a tailor; but now since they have been pressed, they seem to have no lines at all. ' They look cheap on him not fit to wear to Sunday school." Tommy's father took the suit and In spected it carefully. It was a rood little suit and on the proud day Tommy nau iriea it on is naa Deen paid for its blue serge newness. "It ought to press all right." mused Tommy's father, looking it over inside and out. "It seems to be good material hello, did you notice this? The thing is sewed with cheap thread In stead of silk. Look at these seams!" "You bought the suit," reminded Tommy's mother. - "Sure, I did: but it never occurred to me it would be sewed like that an $8 suit, too! A man takes it for granted his clothes will be stitched up with silk thread how in the world d'ye ex pect "em to press decently, unless? No wonder Tom's pants look shapeless and his coat puckers across the back! And will you look at the collar and lapels how they bulge!- O say. wouldn't a man cut up some row with his tailor or with the shop that furnished his clothes if cheap thread was sewed into the seams? I dare say those manufacturer chaps save a few cents this way in the making of boys' clothes think they can put it over because women, mostly, do tho shopping for the kiddles. Dare say," continued father sarcastically, "they even sew up suits for ycu women with cheap thread, and you never no tice it." "I dare say they do." admitted the mother. "But, here is one woman who will never be fooled that way again." Utilizing; Economical Cuts of Meat Is Urged. Roll of Round Steak. Stuffed With Bread Crumbs and Seasoned With Herbs, Is Good ' Substitute for Beef Stew." ' i HE voice that breathed o'er tlcularly appealing In Spring and early bridesmaids and maid of honor. The Eden," the wedding ring even 1 - the bridegroom himself must tike second place In Importance, so far as feminine guests at the wedding are concerned, with the vital and thrilling Interest of bridal and bridesmaid rai ment. No wonder the average bride plans and. dreams of her. wedding pageant, from the time, she enters her teens: no wonder she visualizes every detail of that prospective picture, her self the central figure, the note of in tenBest Interest: for the bride's day Is the great day of her life. All events before It lead up to It: all memories afterward tend backward to It. Most brides have ' rather decided Ideas about the decorations, the colors and the grouping of their own wedding pageants. "I shall have a pale pink wedding'--or. ,'"a daffodil yellow wed ding," states one little boarding-school miss to another in flapper, years. . It is all settled, even to the kind of bouton niers the ushers will wear, long before Prince Charming arrives and slips an engagement, ring on a slender finger; It is the exceptional bride-to-be who has. to think twice about the proposed color scheme of her wedding. It is the fashion now to have wedding colors rather subtle; the definite shades rep resented in the "pink wedding" or the "'yellow wedding" of a decade ago have changed to faint blush or blossom tints or sombre shadings, or artistic and un usual combinations of. tone. Sweet-pea weddings have been popular for several seasons Summer seasons, when the dainty flowers are in bloom, and this year sweet-pea weddings seem, as much fancied as ever. Judging from the number of bridesmaids who are walk lng up the aisle In delicate combina tions of mauve, lilac and pink. One has only to read the list of sweet-pea varie ties in any seed catalogue to realize what a wide choice of tints there Is for a' sweet-pea wedding:' one catalogue gives no less than 134 varieties, and very color Is different from every other. So the June bride who favorB sweet peas for her wedding, need 'not confine herselfN to pinks,- blues and mauves: there are salmon pinks and coral pinks, blush white veiled with rosy pink, silver-blue, wedgewood blue, blue lavender, apricot and even such gorgeous shades as carmine, flame and orange. This year there Seems to be an espe cial preference for lilac and pink -combinations In June bridesmaid costumes. Lilacs and lavenders are always par- Summer, and these tints are better for day than for evening weddings, for gaslight-seems to take the life from lavender tones. Because - of the late season and cold weeks of May. lilacs have been delayed In their blossoming everywhere. Usually the. lovely, lilacs are gone by May 25; this year, at May 20. they are scarcety out in most sec tions of the. East, and the early days of June will see many a lilac wedding a most unusual happening. . Lucky the ' June :brlde, this-season, who . has planned pale lilac, pink and mauve, or pink frocks for her bridesmaids, for such frocks will be exquisitely lovely against masses of banked lilac blossoms in church and in the home parlor. : The color scheme of pale pink and lilac, planed by a bride-to-be for an early' June wedding, is carried out so charmingly that it is worth telling about. The six - bridesmaids are to wear frocks of white net and filet lace over slips of sweet-pea lavender silk. Stockings and slippers are in shades of pinkish -lilac and the bridesmaids will, have leghorn hats wreathed with pink ' roses oyer which are arranged clouds , of palest lilac tulle, long streamers of the tulle trailing down oyer the shoulder to veil partially the big bouquets of pink roses. You see though these' bridesmaids will wear sweet-pea tints, the flower Itself does not appear In their costume. One prob lem to be solved by a Jealous devotion to the cause is the perfect matching of colors, in materials and findings and In every detail from the silk thread In the seams to -the clouds of tulle. No thread but pure silk can possibly be relied upon to match the -delicacy of sweet pea and lilac shades. Maid of Honor's Costume. : Rarely does' a maid of honor wear a frock paler in color than the frocks of the bridesmaids. " Her costume Intensi fies and focuses the color note of the wedding pageant and throws Into high er relief the spotless white of the bride's panoply. At the wedding just referred to, the maid of honor, walking behind the six maids In white lace and pinkish lilac, 'will wear a frock of lilac .tulle over pink georgette, the tulle embroidered with little designs in pink, lavender and crystal beads. Her sash of lilac ribbon strikes a still deeper color note; her hat is trimmed with pink roses and lilac sprays. : Even the mother of the bride dresses "up" to the picture,"' as one might say; her gown is carefully -chosen to har monize with the costumes worn by the color of the maternal gown never used to matter, so long as the costume ex- there was a sufficient amount of "realserve for a second day's dinner. lace on it; but now the bride's mother is correctly considered part of the wed ding pageant, though at the ceremony she takes.no active part in the pro ceedings, and her costume Is quite as Important in the complete picture as the maid of honor's. Some of the June wedding gowns TUST now, when the Government is (J admonishing every good housewife to look to the matter of saving in her kitchen, some women are racking their brains over the question of whai to serve If porterhouse, capon and rib roasts are to be cut offthe menu. The usual alternative that occurs to mind Is ' "meat ' stew" a most unpleasant sounding possibility to a ' porterhouse and capon taste. Instead of planning ; a "stew" for economy's sake, try this Buy a , large - slice of steak off the round (a most economical cut) and roll the slice round a stuffing made of bread crumbs seasoned with herbs and melted butter. Skewer the Toll, lay It in a dripping pan, dredge with flower and place small pieces of fat In the pan. Roast an hour, basting frequently; and make a thick gravy when the roll Ja done, as you do after roasting a more expensive cut. The round can be cut In slices, a ring of beef around a circle of Btuffing. and, with the rich gravy, Is really delicious. It is always more economical when buying lamb to purchase tho fore quarter, which Is usually Several cents less, a pound 'than the leg. Have the butcher remove the chops, which will The Dortlon at the neck will make & rich soud. and the roast Itself, If - well browned and basted and served in thin slices, is most toothsome. And many a fool has acquired a rep utation for wisdom by accidentally do lng the right thing at the right time. SMART MOIRE SILK RETICULE ATTRACTIVE FOR JUNE BRIDE Handle Is Made of Heavy Grosgrain Ribbon Run Through Carved Metal Rings. . THE June bride selects a smart moire silk reticule like this one, to carry with her honeymoon travel ing, suit. The shape Is correct and the bag Is a capacious and practical model with its inner frame and the two deep side pockets, into which may be thrust gloves and handkerchief or a guide book or railroad folder, perhaps. When carried by its handle made, by the way, of heavy grosgrain ribbon run through carved metal rings the bag looks like a reticule of gath ered silk; but Inside the shirred silk headings at the top one discovers the convenient frame-bag for coin and bills. The bag pictured is of black moire silk with a lining and frame pocket of shrimp pink faille. The narrow ruffles on the reticule are of moire ribbon and a handsome silk tassel finishes the bag. Armour Executives Rise From Rank - J. O. " Armour, in an article on busi ness success in a, recent number of American Magazine, says: "Almost every executive in our com pany has risen from the ranks. M. IX Harding, general manager of our Chi cago plant, started in as a boy of 11 the youngest of a dozen children as an office boy in our Kansas City plant. C. H. MacDowell. president of the Ar mour Fertilizer Works, was my father's stenographer; William E. Pierce, who built-our plant In La Plata, Argentina, began as a timekeeper. And so it- goes all along- the line." . ...:: ::::... V . ........ . .-. St. I v. - V . :H I- W ''-! Hattdbaff of tbe Mom rat. I ........... , ,4 WOMEN'S PART IN WORLD NEWS OF. DAY CATCHES ATTENTION OF PICTURE MAKERS Dr. Hamilton Rice and Wealthy Wife Return From Exploring Trip in South America Jeanne Tardy Is First Woman in France to Be Named Attache in Cabinet Member's Office. y i-T V v i 7) -' f'y vvv fas- '... -. . v.. t - -iii' .7 U x ? .v RV I j J W :: ) rtY ' -4 'hi hM4v mr i. f -A ' v "Jj J hit ).f , - "J V j w . CI I i Pa -J I . : :-& j Jyj , J .- -. I I - - - '' I yVjTiS: jY. & 5rz&n6: j sic MA-DAME URIU Is the wife of the Admiral who Is coming here as a commissioner from Japan, and she will accompany him, no doubt. Mrs. Phil Lydig was one of the soci ety women who made successful the garden party in Greenwich Village. She sold toy balloons. A Belgian war dog. "Caesar." wss one of the features of the Greenwich Vil lage garden party. His appeal was for the most part mute, but It was effective. Estelle Thomas was the coy cierarette seller of the Actors' Fund fair. "Smoke up," is Estelle's motto. Certainly, even a non-smoker could not resist Estelle's appeal. Dr. ' Hamilton . Rice and his wealthy wife have Just returned from an explor ing tour In South America on their pri vate yacht. The first woman in France to become an attache of a Cabinet office is Jeanne Tardy. She has been named attache of the new Sub-Secretary of State for Fi nance Albert Metin. She is 23 years old and is described by the French papers as modest In appearance with an agree- . .. -ur y?yryyyj 1 , yy pair of the new patriotic boots with buttons showing the American ea;l. , d otA able face and eyes luminous with intelligence. Silk Jersey Bathing; Suits Are I Indeed Captivating. ! I American Women Amazed at Foot wear Affected by Parisians. SILK Jersey bathing suits are capti vating affairs. ' A pretty model in rose-color is trimmed with black nnH white block check, the check forming the short sleeve, the edge of the knee- tights and following a Vandyked or pointed scallop around the edge of the tunic, also cut into points. These SUitS are verv limtrmln nnri hAnuiifiil when wet. but they cling like an eel skin and under them must be worn a one-piece garment of knitted wool or cotton. so that, the lines of the figure may not be too emphatic for modesty. A new bathin&r ti?ht. lepvelKft and coming only to the knee ' has a rein- Torced section over the bust which may bo laced . snugly. This excellent gar ment retails for about $1.25 and gives the popular silk or wool jersey bath ing costume a much neater, trimmer and more pleasing silhouette than an ordinary undergarment which does not confine the figure as trimly. Paris women are wearing low shoes made of two leathers, or of leather and fabric combined, with tailored street costumes. A favored combination seems to be patent leather with gray ante lope, and there are shoes of black velvet with white antelope trimming. High sandals of gray or mustard col ored antelope are cut out in conventional designs to show a lining of white ante lope, and patent leather sandals are cut In the same way to show an underlay of white satin. The American woman is amazed at the eccentric footwear affected by Parisians. " Such shoes never obtain favor over here, though there Is noth ing to be missed In the way of dainti ness and prettiness in American boots and pumps for Summer wear. It Is to be a season of white foot wear undoubtedly; there are high heeled white buttoned boots, trim slender white pumps, smart tennis ox fords, also white, and a new white canvas boot . with Cuban heel or military-heel and buttons of brass stamped with tiny American eagles these for the girl who goes in for pa triotic effects in dress. Hidden in a Poppy. Great big silk and velvet poppies, six Inches across petal, tip to tip. in all of the dainty thades. carry hidden under their yellow centers a vanity case fas terued with a snap-catch satin lap. They have -two-little Ivory rings to slip on the first and little finger, so that they lay on tte back of tb hand while their owner Is dancing. They are very new and useful to repair the ravages in the toilet by aid of the tiny glass caught in the flap, thus saving a trip to the dress ing-room when dances are near to gether and partners are waiting. There is, also, an effort being made to revive the old-fashioned handker chief rings to wear on the fingers; and while they are Infinitely prettier than those formerly worn, they do not seem to make a big hit. They are in silver, gold and Russian enamel. Silk Is Best for Stitching Stretchable Material. Charming Colors of Georgette Crepe Less Crude In Coloring Than Many 'ew Patriotic Wearables. IT IS most imperative that anything of a stretchable nature like Jersey ellk or cloth, should have seams stitched up with sewing silk which "gives" with any strain on the material in almost an elastic manner, whereas ordinary thread is likely to snap and spoil the looks of a seam. Every woman who does her own dressmaking knows how much easier it is o press seams that are sewed with silk, and how much less danger there is of puckering and draw ing of the material alongside the seam. This is because silk thread never shrinks under a damp cloth . and hot Iron as cheap thread does. Of course frocks and sktrts made at home can bo sewed with silk and usu ally are since the silk is so much easier to handle on a sewing machine: but one should look out for substitutes for silk In ready-made costumes espe cially in sport suits of stretchable Jersey: for cheap thread In the seams may mean ruination to the costume after exposure to a damp Summer fog and consequent pressing of the gar ment. Less crude and sensational in color ing than many of the new patriotic wearables so called are some really charming collars of Georgette crepe which fly the National colors in chast ened effect. There are broad collars of white Georgette with hems of red Georgette set on with hemstitching, and these are mounted over larger collars of blue Georgette. The white portion of the upper col lar has tiny stars embroidered with blue silk. above the red hem. There are also red Georgette collars with white hems and red stars over larger collars of plain blue, and blue collars hemmed in white and embroid ered in white, over red Georgette foun dations. These dainty and pretty col lars look well with trotter frocks of navy serge or taffeta and, to go with , them, the patriotic maid picks out . a Worked Both Ways. The Christian Herald. "Madam." said the conductor during the recent infantile paralysis epidemtej "you can not travel on this- train unless! you have a health certificate for xu child." "The law does not require a child 16 to have a certificate." said mother as she tossed' her bead and tered the car. ..When the conductor again con fronted the haughty mother he returned! to her a half-fare ticket which she hdj just tendered for the child, making thiai observation: "But the law does require that chll-4 dren over 1! years of age pay full fare. The woman's eyes flashed fire, hed bosom registered her emotion. han clinched and her feet tapped- but shel paid. Ksr Gives a Finish. To make kid gloves look like ne after they have been cleaned, rub o with white of an egg. Good luck Is the most popular brand of rjrve tonic. J Girls! Use Lemons! Make a Bleaching, 1 Beautifying Cream I k"V-x II'1 : I 'fr The juice of two fresh lemons strain Into a bottle containing three ounce of orchard white makes a whole quar ter pint of the most remarkable lemo skin beautlfier at about the cost on must pay for a small jar of the ordln ary cold creams. Care should be taken to strain the lemon juice through a fine cloth so no lemon pulp gets In. then this lotion will keep fresh for months. Every woman knows that lem on Juice Is used to bleach and remove' such blemishes as freckles, sallowness and tan and Is the ideal skin softener,' smoothener and beatifler. Just try It! Get three ounces of orchard white at any pharmacy and two lemons from the grocer and make up a quarter pint of this sweetly frag-, rant lemon lotion and massage it daily' into the face. neck, arms and hands. It naturallv should help to soften, freshen, bleach and bring out the roses and beauty of any skin. It is simply marvelous to amoolhsn rourh, rei nanus. Aat,.
