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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 4, 1917)
-THE - SUNDAY " OEEGONIATf, PORTLAM), - MARCH 4, -1917. SMART AND ATTRACTIVE SPRING GARMENTS ARE DESIGNED FOR BUSINESS GIRLS' WEAR Little Tailored Suit of Checked Material Is for Downtown Use Suitable Coat for Office Is of Light Bolivia Cloth. , Saturday Half -Holiday Frock,Is of Tan Tussah, in Simple ModeL J i nL r w "rt t " ' V t "" l $Jr fp ' " iVl ; mwi fi - 4 V U . A I - c V f: 'il 7a 'r-- i;"'"A I .tffiwmk f 1 V NOTHING like a smart little tailored suit of checked material for Spring freshness down town. If the business grirl buys one good suit, mad e of reliable material, and stitched with silk In the seams so that there will be no ugly fading or puckering of the cloth from dampness, such a suit should last the season through. One model has the new slot pockets, and a knowing little waistcoat, truly Parisian, decorated with silk embroid ery. The hat is a practical knock about sailor of dark straw. The gloves are of white fabric, the buttoned boots, like all smart boots now, have light tops. Every business woman needs a coat. Not too fine for a rainy day, and light enough to carry over the arm when not slipped on over a cool frock, com fortable In the office, but a bit too light for street appearance, down town. One such coat is a ready made model of bolivia cloth which comes in navy, tan, olive and mustard. The wide collar may be turned up. In close, Incroyable effect. Under the coat is a. separate skirt of striped flannel, with m. tailored blouse of linen. A Saturday half-holiday frock that ts quite presentable for office wear, yet possessed of the. gala day dainti ness the business girl likes for mati nee day. Is of tan tussah, and the model Is a simple one, the gathered skirt In the correct length over the top of the buttoned walking boot. Olive green embroidery over white faille matinee silk, with an edge trim ming of olive green faille matinee. Is used on belt and pockets. The toque of violets and roses has a brim of tan straw. All Around the- World. Many of the ostriches In South Africa re now batched in incubators. The term, "yankee" is supposed to Stave been derived from a corrupt pro nunciation of the word "English" by the Indians. Wireless telegraphy was discovered fcy Marconi in 1897. and he conducted experiments in England the same year. On December 20, 1902, a message was ent from Canada to Cornwall. Quito, the capital of Ecuador, on the equator, has no regular water-supply. Water carriers bring water Into the city in Jars. "vegetable silk." which, like silk cot ton. Is only suitable for stuffing. Is made from the covering of the seeds of a Brazilian tree called Chorisia. speci osa. An old Japanese prophecy says, "When men fly like birds, ten great Icings will go to war against one an other." Leaes of the manaca palm, probably If l J J I it "4 ? h U Q I u J : " if If- V N . J- I ' - it . i the commonest forest plant In Central I bling violently when no wind America, have a queer habit of trem- I that the human faculties can is stirring detect. Answers to Correspondents most savory flavor, -the oil the -most "Spanish" and the drippings or suet may sometimes be the most easily available. Put. the browned pieces into a casserole, bean pot, or stew pan. In the same fat brown sliced onions, al lowing about one-half cup raw sliced onions for 2 pounds .meat. More or less onion may be used as liked. Be careful not to over brown them. If you have about three tablespoons fat add three tablespoons flour and cook until light brown and bubbly, stirring all the time. Next add two cups canned tomatoes or the equivalent amount of sliced raw "Ones, and about one-third cup cold water. Stir and cook' until It bolls up and dissolves all the "brown part" on the pan. Pour this over the meat, cover closely and cook very slowly at the back of the stove, or in the oven, or In a tireless cooker for 214 to 3 hours. A few minutes before serving add one teaspoon or more Spanish pepper mixed smooth In one tablespoon water witn salt to taste-and a few grains of sugar. Stir this well into the sauce. Serve from the casserole. Chopped fireen peppers, or canned pimentos, or chopped parsley are optional ingredients. . A few pieces of thin sliced carrot are sometimes browned with the onion. If a hint of garlic is liked, cook one slashed clove of it In the gravy, re moving it before the gravy is poured over the meat in the casserole. Two whole cloves and a bit of bay ffeaf are added by some makers. Sliced ripe olives may be put' into the sauce Just before serving but, of course, this in creases the cost of the dish. A pot roast or a thick piece of round steak or a rolled and stuffed flank steak might be similarly treated, the steak requiring about two hours In the casserole and the pot roast more, ac cording to size and thickness. v When potatoes are high, nicely baked or fried "polenta" (a form of cornmeat mush) or boiled rice might be servea with this. If a very hot Spanish sauce Is wanted add cautiously a few drops of labascu or a few grains of cayenne pepper, and increase the amount of Spanish pepper to taste. PORTLAND, Or.. Teh. 1. Would you kindly write a recipe In The Sunday Ore ironlan for graham crackers made with fine graham flour? I thouKht the home made would be better to. give to my baby thaa the bought ones. Thanking you. MM. H. Not . knowing the age or digestive habits of your baby, I. cannot say whether or not the following wafers would be suitable. They are. however, quite good for older children. They are slightly laxative In effect and en courage chewing. Graham wafers One cup sifted gra ham flour, two level tablespoons corn starch, two level tablespoons brown sugar, two tablespoons butter, one fourth teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon baking powder. Milk to make a very stiff dough. Mix like baking powder biscuits. Turn out on a floured board and beat with the rolling pin. Roll out evenly, less than one-eighth inch thick. Cut neatly into- squares or "fingers," prick all over and bake in a medium oven watching the baking very carefully so as not to brown the edges or over-bake the wafers. PORTLAND, Feb. 20. The texture of the caramels waa - "chewy," but not "sticky." They were called "caramela that do not tick to the teeth." They were light col ored and had no nuta. If you do not have this particular recipe will you please send me one that you con- alder good ? Thanking you. MRS. C. H. W. 1 " A good caramel recipe appeared Feb ruary 24. I hope you saw it. If you did not, or if it was not what you wanted, please write again. SALEM, Or., Feb. 21. Several weeks ago you gave number of books on food values. Washington, D. C. Unfortunately, I mis laid . my., paper. Will you kindly give it again , ana greatly oblige? ai M. The list of bulletins on food values obtainable from Washington D. C. is too long to be given in this column. At your public library you can obtain a list which will Indicate which bulle tins are free and which must be paid for. You do not' say what line of food study you are interested in. A very good book for the housekeeper who is Interested In nutritive values is the recently published "Feeding the Fam ily," by Marie Schwartz Rose, of Co lumbia University. It is published by McMillan & Co., and costs something more than' $2. Any book store would order It for you. 'CANBT. Or. Will you kindly give me a menu to be used at a banquet given by the church, price -per plate &0 cents. - MRS. M. I fear the advice of - a perfect stranger who knows nothing of your local prices or supplies, and has no idea of the number of people you wish to serve', and their probable likings. can be or absolutely no value to you. Baked ham. if properly done is usual ly popular. So is fried chicken If you can do It for the money. Scalloped potatoes with grated cheese are easy to keep hot and usually popular. Any fruit or vegetable salad likely to suit local taste would be good, provided It is not too sweet or too heavy. Cake and ice cream are always safe to be popular. Good coffee and Irreproach able rolls and butter are essential. If you are serving a fairly large .number you may be able to serve a menu something like this if you buy well and cook economically. i Decide how much profit you must make on each plate, then calculate your prob able numbers and get your prices on supplies, or promises of donations, as the case may be. Then cut down if necessary or add a few extra "frills" if you can afford them. No one at a distance can possibly do your planning for you. Write again if you need any special definite information or recipes. PORTLAND, Or. Would you please give me a recipe for cranberry Jelly that will unmold ? Thanking you In -advance. I asked for this recipe last week and failed to find It in The Sunday Oregonian. so think my letter miscarried. Miti. A recipe for cranberry Jelly has been given since the receipt of your letter. I hope you saw It; ft not, let me know. Mrs. J. W. M.. Estacada. requests the address of Mrs. L. C, who recently sent a soap recipe for this column. As I have not kept Mrs. I C.'s address, I shall be obliged if she will send It to me, so that I may send on the letter from Mrs. J. W. M. I hope H. R-, Wasco," Or- saw the recipe for pickled pigs' feet February 11 in this column. PORTLAND. Or.. Feb. 25. Would you kindly describe some simple dishes that I could cook in a casserole? Being a young. Inexperienced housekeeper, I would greatly appreciate - your advice. Thanking you in advance. MRS. M. D. The casserole is especially, good for stews of meats and vegetables, or for scalloped dishes, or for reheated dishes, such as macaroni in tomato or cheese sauce, "fish pies" or thick chowders, or combinations of vegetables add re heated meat or. legumes. Following is a typical dish wfflcn should give you a general idea of the method for dealing with fresh meats. See also the answer given to Mrs. P. B. above. The long, slow cooking makes tough meat tender and the seasoning and vegetables tend to make uninter esting cuts of meat palatable and at tractive, besides facilitating their serving. Lamb stew In casserole with rice- Cut up 2Va pounds neck of lamb in pieces suitable for serving, removing excess fat, sprinkle with vinegar or lemon Juice and roll In flour, highly seasoned with salt and pepper. Put into a casserole and cover with a peeled and sliced onion, a little chopped green pepper (if available) and a cup of canned or fresh slioed tomatoes. Add water to come only half way towards covering the meat. Leave space ia the casserole for the rice. Cover and cook two hour. Then add Vi cup blanched rice (with more water if needed), cover and cook another hour. Serve from the casserole. The rice should be white and tender and there should be "Just enough" gravy. Many variations are possible by the use of different flavorings and vege tables. For a brown stew the meat may be lightly browned in a heavy iron pan before being transferred to the casserole. One cup peas (with a little finely chopped mint, a level tablespoon of sugar and two or three tablespoons vinegar) may replace the tomato and pepper In Spring or Summer, giving quite a different dish. Or a "Spanish effect" may be produced by a touch of garlic, ripe olives and Spanish pepper. Smartest Suits Are Narrow, Short and Youthful Lanvln Puts Ont Garment With .Straight Coat Buttoned ' Kl Collar to Edge Which Scores. THE smartest suits are narrow and short and have an air of Jaunty youthfulness that appeals to feminin ity. Lanvin has brought out a pretty little suit with hip-length, straight coat buttoned straight down from col lar to edge,, the buttons set closely together. There is a narrow, turnover velvet collar and the sleeves are in mannish coat style, stitcned In rows of sewing silk at the wrist. - 1 The skirt is two yards wide, stitched in rows at the edge and Just covers the buttoned boot top. Barrel pockets be low the hips give the correct bulging silhouette, and these pockets are also decorated with rows of sewing silk stitching. Lanvln's suits, like those of all the good couturiers, show silk sew ing in the seams and details of lining and facing. It is imperative that a tailored suit have this nicety of finish, for cheap thread substitutes are apt to fade a different shade from the ma terial, and to shrink from dampness and cause the seams to pucker. Bright-colored silk waistcoats add to the effectiveness of some new suits, and since Paris fancies the buttoned Jacket, left unbuttoned almost from the throat, the gay waistcoat serves to hide the blouse beneath as well as fur nishing a natty style touch. These waistcoats are double-breasted and are made of bright-colored moire or faille silk. Some of them have a high open ing, with narrow revers that turn over the revers of the coat. The oak-leaf veil is one of the new Spring patterns in veilings. The oak leaf design covers the edge of the veil to a depth of several inches and shows upon the face from nose to chin. An other pattern much liked is the ivy leaf. The designs are delicately wrought in hand-run effect on fine mesh veiling, and are not ugly or gro tesque as some of the heavier veil de signs have been. Cold Cream Substitute. Those who fear that the use of cold cream or skin food will induce a growth of superfluous hair can substitute warm milk. This should be applied in exactly the same manner as the creams. If you value complexion, never use hard water in which to wash. Hard water contains mineral salts such as lime, which, when combined with the fatty acids of the soap, form what is known as stearate of lime. This clogs up the pores and makes them large and opens and coarsens the skin. Should rain water not be available, soften the hard water with borax or oatmeal. Now Use for Paper Clips. When sewing long seams use wire paper clips to fasten the edges of the cloth together and no basting will be necessary. Turn up a hem at the bot tom edge to hold it in place. BT LILIAN TIXGLE. UOBTLAND, Or.. Feb. 2. Will you kindly print directions for making bran cookies? Thanking you. MRS. C. P. M. BRAN COOKIES Cream one-third cup butter with one cup sugar (white or brown, as preferred), then add the beaten white of one egg, and, alternately, one-half cup water, with one-half cup flour in which one half teaspoon soda, 14 teaspoons cream of tartar and one-half teaspoorf salt have been sifted. Then add choice bran, enough to make a ' rolling mix ture. - Roll out very thin, cut into squares or diamonds, prick over with a fork, and bake until crisp and very lightly browned In a moderate oven. Use as little flour as possible in rolling. Use a very light hand with the rolling pin, and make the mixture as soft as can be rolled or you will have hard Instead of crisp cookies. PORTLAND. Feb. 18. Would you kindly give recipe In The Sunday Oregonian for flaky pie crust; also for beef Spanish, and eblige a young housekeeper. Thanking you la advance. MRS. P. H. Following Is a very light, flaky crust, if well made. "Knack" and skill In the use of the rollingp"pin is essen tial. Never try to make paste in a Warm room. Flaky crust To every eup flour al low one-third cup shortening (if lard or butter is used; less if any of the more concentrated fats are used. A Xalacture of equal parts lard and butter gives very good results.) One-quarter teaspoon salt (or more If unsalted shortening is used); one-fluarter lea' spoon baking powder, and about one quarter cup water, hot or-cold, as may be most convenient. Use pastry flour, or, if bread flour must be used, try one or two tablespoons corn starch (according to the strength of the flour) in place of a similar amount of flour in each cup used. Sift the dry ingre dients into a "bowl, chop or work in one-half the shortening, until lost in the flour. Add the water cautiously, mixing with' a knife and keeping a good, even consistency by cutting through and through the mass of dough. The paste should be of a stiffness that leaves the bowl perfectly clean. If hot water is used, let stand to chill before rolling. If cold water is used, the dough may be worked at once, but improves by standing a little in a cool place. Next place the lump of dough on a lightly floured board, pat lt-lightly into a smooth, square shape with your floured rolling pin, so that there is a thin film of flour all over the dough. Now roll evenly into a long strip (with nice square corners to prevent a messy fold), and spread this strip with the other half of the shortening. This should he Just soft enough to spread. Hard lumps of butter may tear your film of crust and stick to the rolling pin. Shortening too soft -will give a heavy, putty-like mass. Instead of "flakes." Fold in three, press the edges together to keep in both air and short ening, turn the cut edges to you and roll again into 'a neat, long square edged strip. This is Just as easy as rolling it -like a ragged map of South America (as some beginners do), and it makes folding much easier. The folding incloses air and divides the layers of dough and fat, thus making the desired flakes. Roll and fold once more (three times in all) before roll ing to fit your pietins. Chilling the paste before the last rolling helps to make it "puff" in the oven. If a less rich paste is desired use five level tablespoons shortening to every cup flour. . ' One-quarter cup (four level table spoons) shortening to one- cup flour, and other ingredients as above, makes a nice, light, economical short pastry, much easier to prepare than the so called - "flaky" kind because no roll ing is required, except to shape the crust for the pie plate. In this case mix as above, working in all the shortening instead of half of it. The mixture for short crust should look like light, well-sifted bread crumbs before the water is added. "Beef Spanish", is a name given to almost any kind of beef .stew, pot roast steak or Hamburger loaf that is served with a sauce containing onions and o matoes. seasoned with Spanish pepper. Tabasco and garlic are optional ingre dients. Spanish beans may also be included. From this you will see that a large number of variations are possi ble. Following is a typical recipe. Beef Spanish (short ribs) Quickly brown the ribs (cut and cracked across into pieces about 2Vj inches square) in an iron skillet, using two or three tablespoons of bacon fat, olive oil, drippings, or trled-out pork fat or suet. The bacon or pork fat will give the CROCHET WORK POPULAR LATE IN EIGHTIES IS NOW IN VOGUE Machrame, Once Used for Decorations of Table Covers and Bedspreads, Is Coming Into Use for Bags and Reticules. iTa KirAR These weekly announcements tell why the Nemo Wonderlif t Service stands alone. No other corset combines such ultra style with healthful support, extreme figure-reduction and supreme comfort WONDERLIFT 1 L. UPLIFTING SUPPORT "ZVe 1 H fcy WH EN .SEATED B II IN THE late '80s every woman was making machrame articles, and the gentle handicraft had a tremendous vogue, along with plush lambrequins embroidered with chenille golden rod and cat-tails. Machrame was at that time almost wholly used for household decoration, and there were table covers, chair backs and even bed spreads of this sturdy crochet work, which ' is strong enough to last' a lifetime. Machrame Is being revived now In bags and reticules for. use with Sum mer costumes. A wrist bag is pictured and shows how effective this heavy cord crochet work can be. Though most machrame is done in the drawn-work fas trio n. by catching together the cords and weaving apat tern between them, one uses a crochet hook rather than a needle to draw the cross threads In and out, and the f rings of cord at the bottom of the bag is heavy and handsome. Fashionable Figure of Today. . In the March Woman's Home Com panion Grace Margaret Oould de scribes the figure likely to be most fashionable in 1917. "The fashionable figure is long and straight. ,A11 the puffs and ruffles have been pressed flat. All the short waists and skirts have been pulled down. There are no flares or protrusions. It is alight and girl ish and vigor and dash go with it. Whether it is artificial or not, it doesn't seem to be. It is the figure -of the ca pable young woman who can do things and enjoys doing them.'" ' tew 'Ar t 1 . 4 I v'-v-; r.,-Vi:.N.v ..'1,.. ' Re tarn ow to Blachrame. "Wonderlift" Works Wonders! Do you see how it is done ? Put on your Wonderlift Corset in usual way (front steels must reach to lowest point of abdomen). Pull Bandlet Iacers (on each side) slowly and evenly straight down, until the Bandlet (inside) gently lifts up the sagging flesh into normal position. Tie laces. This will give you: Healthful support; comfortable reduction r(you will lose inches and pounds); smooth, unbroken, youthful, fashionable lines; your best possible figure. MODELS SKETCHED Nov 555, for the tall ) full figure; No. 554, for a fuller figure of medians (. K V height; and No. 553, for the very stout, stocky f 1 figure. All ia size up to Other Wonderlift models for other figures, from lean and bony (different form of Bandlet) to the extremely large and heavy $5 to $10. One model de luxe $12. Good Stmtmm Etmt jrmhmrm Ksbs HTsMe-FssUm lastihrta, Hew Tstm CKr M I Old Candlesticks Proposed j for Desk Adornment. Good Copies of Historic llellcs Are lielnir Reproduced. "Hc i OW far that little candle throws Its light so shines a good deed in a naughty world!" How often has each one of us heard that familiar quo tation; yes, and labored over it in our early copy-book days. But though the candle has been lauded in song and story, how little has ever been said about the candlestick! Yet the can dlestick is much more a matter of sen timent than the candle, which in a few hours at most lives out Its brief exist-' ence. Old candlesticks are treasured as heirlooms, yet who ever gives a thought to the stubs of burnt-out candles that once lived in them? I know a pair of charming old silver candlesticks real Sheffield plate; the silver worn off in patches, showing the copper beneath, a rare proof of the age of these candle- ksticks, which were brought to Dutch Amsterdam before the Revolution. Lucky are the owners of . the little brass candlesticks of Colonial days,, the short standard set in a shallow saucer base and the standard having a mova ble "device to be raised as the candle burns low. One of these ancient can dlesticks, accompanied by a pair of brass snuffers, is an ornament in a thousand for an antique desk or dresser. There is a concern in Connecticut which makes a business of reproduc ing famous old candlesticks. ' One may possess a candlestick du plicating the candlestick which lighted Joseph Jefferson to bed. or a pair of tall brass candlesticks exactly like the pair that held Nathaniel Hawthorne's tapers when he read over his manu script of the "Scarlet Letter." The originals are, of course, treasured as family heirlooms in most cases, but for some of the candlesticks made by this concern prized originals have been loaned to serve as models and shapes and patterns are authentic in every instance. Spanish Mackerel a la Biltmore. t-The following ' recipe for Spanish mackerel is in the March Woman's Home Companion: "Spanish mackerel, one stalk celery, two slices onion, bit of bay leaf, four slices of carrot, canned tomato, one teaspoon vine gar, one-half . cup boiling water, three tablespoons butter, two table spoons flour, one and one-third cups fish stock, lemon Juice, one egg yolk, pepper, salt, three tablespoons cream. Fillet a Spanish mackerel, put in but tered pan with celery cut in thin slices, onion, carrot cut in small cubes, bay leaf, one-fourth cup liquid drained from canned tomato, boiling water and. vin egar. Cover with buttered paper and bake until filets are tender. Melt two tablespoons butter, add flour and ' stir until well blended: then pour on grad ually, while stirring constantly, one and one-third cupfuls liquid in which tish was cooked and stir until boiling point is ro -ched. Add heavy cream, egB yolk slightly beaten and salt, pep per and lemon Juice to taste; then add remaining butter, bit by bit. Place fish on serving dish, pour sauce around and sprinkle with chopped parsley, and, if desired, with small cubes o firm to mato." " Creamed Potatoes. Cold potatoes, one-half ounce"; of flour, one ounce of grated cheese, one pint of milk, one-half ounce of butter and pepper and salt to taste. Cut the potatoes into slices a quarter of .'an inch thick and drop them into boiling milk which has been thlcKened with the flour and delicately seasoned with pep per and salt. When the sauce bolls up stir in the butter. Serve at once in a very hot dish, with grated cheese scat tered over. Itching Pimples Kept Mr. Simpson Awake for Hours.. Suffered Badly. Healed By Cuticura. "I suffered very badly with my head which came out in little white pimples. They would go away in a week and then come back again. They festered and came to little white heads and my scalp was sore. It itched and burned so badly I would just lie awake for hours with the pain and I used to have big eruptions on my head from scratchinc. My hair was also thin and dry. "I was told to wash my head with salt and water, but it did no good and I tried but with no relief. Then I sent for a free sample of Cuticura Soap and Ointment. I afterward bought more and when I used two large boxes of Cuticura Ointment and two bars of Soap 1 was healed." .(Signed) Charlie Simpson, Oak St., River Grove, lil., June 7, '16. When Cuticura has cleared your skin of pimples and redness keep it clear by using the Soap assisted by the Pintment for every-day toilet purposes. Abso lutely nothing better. For Free Sample Each hy Rettrrn Mail, address post-card: Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." ScM evrrvwhere. fir 1 i. I v; i . r- r. - i t - i i r
