The Sunday Oregonian., March 04, 1917, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 68

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-TITE STTXDAT OREGOXTAX; PORTLAND, MARCH -4, 1917..
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PRETTY COSTUMES MEET NEEDS OF BUSINESS
GIRL, WHETHER IN OFFICE OR AT PARTY
Sport Coat Worn at Work May Be Used Successfully at Beaches Girlish Frock Now in Shops Can Be Made
Easily by Clever Seamstress, Violet Velvet Ribbon Being Used. .
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A SMART separate . coat : will cov
this dainty costume In the strei
and 11 wln b worn ty a.luslnes;crai.h. trimmed with Ronmanlail
girl whose office environment makes
possible a costume 'of 'this 'delicate
Shade and silken material. The ekirt,
of gray soiree silk, shows the nWbar
rel drapery below the hips and gray
ilk stockings match the skirt. The
blouse is of fine white voile pin-tucked
across the front and back. Of course
the business girl's blouse , has long
leevea and the neck must not be too
decollete for office wear. ,
Almost every business girl keeps a
weater at the office, during, change
able Spring and Fall weather, " and if
the coat is a smart silk one which may
serve for Saturday wear at the beach
later on. so much the better. The busi
ness woman possessed of good taste
does not select vivid colors, if her sport
coat is to do double duty of this sort
A coat of tan Jersey like the model pic
tured, with trimming of darker tan,
will be Just the thing, especially If ac
companied by. a hat like. this, one of
Futmi atraw . with a crown of tan
broiderv in tan. v-reen and rri
When the business girl accepts 'an
evening invitation she likes to have as
charming an ' evening. frock - as any
other girl. This pretty frock is girlish
in line ahd a clever "business mid
could fashion its replica for herself.
Bodice and skirt 'are of silver embroi
dered net; the ' bodice mounted on a
yoke of orchid tulle is gathered in clus
ters at the waist and violet velvet rib
bon, run throughslashes in the tulle
below the clusters, draws in the filmy
tulle at the" hip. A knot of violet vel
vet finishes the bodice front.
Tne Discard. '
HEN. we ' have no card of the
sui) led "and do not trump, we
pla-?-a-card .-of another suit.
Such play constitutes a discard. The
discard, .is-a. very .important .play and
often conveys vaJuabla Inferences a to
what one may or may not hold in the
suit from which the discard ie made,
as well as to a certain extent in the
Jwo remaining suits, .
Many systems of discards have been
employed from time to time, but none
has yet been devised, which is not sub
leo to mora or laaa- limitations.. Baaao
discard from' weakness; otheri from
strength, the suit they wish led. Others
again make what la known as the odd-and-even
discard, odd to show strength,
even to show weakness. ' Still others
use the reverse discard, and ao on ad
libitum. . .
As a matter, of fact the informatory
features Of the -discard are not as es
sential, in auction as they are in whist,
as, if we have made a 'bid .our partner
knows as to our suit and no further in
formation on the subject should - be
necessary. Even though we have not
bid, he is often able to infer from other
bids and his own holding as to the suit
in which we presumably - have the
greatest strength. There are times,
however.' when there is nothing, to
guide him. and when the informatory
features connected with the dhscard en
ables him to pick up one or more tricks
which otherwise might fall to ma
terialize. -
It is important, therefore, that those
who play as partners should have a
definite understanding on the subject
and as far as practicable try to give
uniform inferences. , At the same time
because of the wide diversity of hands
and the ever-varying conditions of
play, no hard-and-fast rule can "be giv
en governing each and every situation.
Occasions will arise when the dis
card to show weakness will un guard
an honor which, intact, might prevent
I the establishment of the declarer's suit;
again, when the discard to show
strength robs us of a sure trick. the
one trick, .it may be, needed 'to save
the game, or at least defeat the con
tract. Then, too, one may not hold the
odd card necessary to show strength
in-a suit, or-the- even card necessary
to show weakness..
New Diaeai-d KxplalnedV
The latest and most up-to-date dis
card is what is known as the "encour
agement" and "discouragement" dis
card; that , is. the . discard of a seven
or higher card to encourage partner to
lead the particular suit; of a card lower
than the seven, to discourage his do
ing so, except, of course, for purposes
of hie own. This discard, it is per
haps needless to say, applies in its en
tirety to a no-trump declaration, or to
a trump after one's trumps are known
to be exhausted, for at a trump If our
partner fails to follow to a suit, our
best policy generally , is to go 'on with
the suit and let, him trump. . . -
Those who use this discard employ
a similar form of play to give similar
Inferences when following suit; that Is
to say, if to our partner's lead, we will
say, of ace of clubs, spades being , the
declaration, we play a seven or higher
club, we give him to infer we hold the
king and so encourage him to go a sec
ond round. Contrariwise, if-to the lead
of ace we .play a card lower- than the
seven, we deny the king and discour
age the continuance of the suit. The
higher the card we play either to the
discard of in following suit, the more
we empnasize the Importance, in the
one case, or the lead of the suit in
which we" make the discard; in the
other case, of the continuance of the
suit which is being led. It would be
Inadvisable as a rule, however, to em
ploy an honor, if it can be avoided, in
the endeavor to convey much inference.
This discard as well has its limita
tions and cases arise not infrequently
where it would be impossible to employ
it. It is generally believed, however,
to cover the situation more completely
than any of the other discards and the
form is especially favored by some be
cause of its power to convey a like in
ference in the follow to a suit.
Ktrst Discard Directive.
It Is the first discard, be it distinctly
understood, which is directive. Later
discards have for, their aim simply the
beet protection of the hand. The dis
card at all times, however, calls for
caution and discretion. The question
is not simply. "Shall we throw from
our strongest or our weakest suit?"
but, "How many discards shall we
make from the particular suit?" "How
much protection is necessary to other
suits?" etc. These are questions which
must be left largely to the Judgment
of the individual player. Having in
mind the point he has set out to at
tain, he must endeavor to Judge for
himself how long his efforts along this
line will be advisable, and be pliable
enough to change his tactics as de
velopments render expedient. The most
hopeless sort of player, perhaps, is tne
one who stubbornly holds to bis origi
nal scheme when . the entire develop
ment points to its utter failure. Bet
ter, far, gracefully to accept the situ
ation and try for the next best thing.
When it is evident that we will be
put to a,, number .of discards the de
clarer or perhaps our partner running
with a long-established suit it Is bet
ter as a rule to throw from one suit
altogether rather than to throw first
from one- and then the other and so lr-'
revocably cripple both. Take the case
of- two . three-card suits . headed by
queen, the two remaining cards small.
One card from either will cripple the
suit. Why, then, discard first from the
one and then the other, and thus ren
der both helpless? Throw rather en
tirely from the one and, there having
beenT nothing to guide you in the mat
ter, trust to your lucky stars that you
have made the right choice.
Clew Gained From Partner.
We may- often take our clew in the
matter of a discard from the suit our
partner is discarding (in the event
that he also is put to discards) and
hold the suit .which he is discarding
(unless utterly hopeless In our hand),
and conversely , throw the one which
he is retaining. Then in the event
either on of- the suits is led one or
the other of us may be able to stop it.
Occasionally it becomes necessary to
discard one or more cards of our es
tablished suit, as when our only chance
of getting In is dependent upon well
guarded honor in some other suit.
When this situation develops one
should take his medicine like a man,
and heroically throw from the suit. As
long as we can safely do so we should
hold one or more cards of partner's
suit the suit Jie has led or indicated
by a bid especially at a no trump dec
laration, and more than ever if having
reason to believe the suit Is estab
lished. When, however, it comes to
the point that in order to keep . re
entry we must give up the suit we
should unhesitatingly do so. When dis
carding from partner's suit, having be
gun to unblock in the suit, we must take
care to hold a low card and throw
such card as might otherwise block the
suit; that is. leave' us in command at
a time when we are without a. small
card to return him.
EaVly in the play of a hand, or at any
stage until developments perhaps make
the case seemingly unimportant, we
should avoid blanking an ace. unguard
ing an honor, or discarding a singlton.
Blanking an ace is throwing from a
suit composed of ace and one other
card only. Such play blocks a suit and
should it turn out partner has strength
In the suit, renders us helpless to put
him in. A similar disability follows
upon the discard of a singleton. More
over, in this case the situation becomes
exposed as soon as the suit Is led, and
enables the declarer to estimate both
the number and value of the cards ot
the suit held by our partner, and so in
many cases successfully to lead through
him. The folly of blanking an ace and
discarding a singleton apply partic
ularly to a no trump declaration. At a
trump they often serve as the best dls-
cards we cai make, guiding our part
ner as to a lead, and enabling us to
save small trumps.
Watch Exposed Head.
In considering our discard, the ex
posed hand should by no means be Ig
nored, nor- should, we be unconscious
of the fact that discards give as val
uable inference to the declarer as to
our partner, and often guide him as to
the side on which be can best venture
a finesse. In the hope to mislead him
on this point, at times, even when the
cards we hold of a suit which it is evi
dent the declarer must lead, and in
whlch.lt Is . likely lie will have to
finesse. - axe - entirely worthless, we
GROUP PORTRAITS OF WOMEN WHO HAVE WON
PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN NEWS DISPATCHES
Miss Angela Castro, of South America, Is Popular in Washington Florence Walton Due for Gown Every Week
From Paris Mrs. Myron Reynolds Startles Palm Beach "Visitors With Hawaiian Bathing Costume. ; - :
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KB of the most charming hostesses
from the southern republics at
Washington is Miss Angela Cas
tro.- She entertains for her bachelor
brother and is a great favorite in the
diplomatic set.
0
Florence Walton, the dancer, has
many new French gowns. Every wom
an in America may envy Miss Walton,
for each week when the ship service
is regular comes a new gown from a
fashionable Paris modiste consigned to
her. A new gown a week from Paris
means $15,000 to $25,000 a year. But
the devotees of the dance who pay
nightly to see Miss Walton and her
partner oh the dancing floor of a New
York hotel are said to contribute 1200
a night to their exchequer on a "roy-
dlty" basis, so Miss Walton caor afford
to dress as well as she likes. "
Mrs. Myron Reynolds startled society
at Palm Beach by appearing 4n a Ha
waiian bathing costume Truly Ha
waiian ways and costumes are becom
ing popular. The ukelele playing Ha
waiian strains for the dances chime in
well with the -Honolulu parasols and
Hawaiian bathing costumes.
.
Charlotte Ives, who was recently en
gaged by Edward Warren for a leading
part. In a coining production now known
as "The Transgressor," recently lost her
entire wardrobe in the Lenox Hotel fire
in Boston. Mass. Miss . Ives had a
miraculous escape- She was on the
sixth floor and made her way down to
the sidewalk on a scaling ladder iruher
night clothes.
. Immediately after the fire she was
on the long-distance telephone calling
to her friends in New York. Chicago
and Pittsburg for castaway clothes.
Within 48 hours she had such a hetero
geneous collection of wearing apparel
that her new rooms at the Copley
Plaza, at Boston, assumed the aspects
of a second-hand clothing store.
Ruth Law, the American aviatrjee
who made a distance record for- this
country in her flight from Chicago to
New York, is now in Paris inspecting
the war aeroplanes of France. She made
a flight recently in one over Paris.: She
may volunteer her services to. "the
French army or. In case we get - Into
greater trouble, she may offer herself
tq the Flying Corps of the United (States
Army. .
.-....
Madam Paul Ritter is the wife of the
Swiss Ambassador to the United States,
who is handling Germany's diplomatic
affairs in this country. .. .
, Madam Ritter is popular in the diplo
matic set in Washington and is known
for her gracious manner and personal
ity. - .
should refrain from the discard of a
single card of the suit.
As can. be seen there is no phase of
auction play which does not at times
Involve the deepest strategy and ob
vious departure from rule. Fortunate
the player who can recognize and suc
cessfully meet such occasions as they
develop.
In view of the heavy penalty which
attaches to a revoke, if made by the
adversaries, 100 points above the line,
or three tricks taken from their" side
and given to the declarer, as the de
clarer may elect, the adversary who
first refuses a suit should invariably
accompany his play with the remark,
"no spades." "no diamonds," as the case
may be. Should lie neglect to do so, his
partner should put the question to
him: "No hearts, partner?" "no clubs,
partner?" or whatever the suit to
which he renounces happens, to, be.. .The
observance of this simple form will
save many a revoke which otherwise
becomea hopelessly established against
one. - - .
While on the subject of revokes I
want particularly to deprecate the
habit,' common to nearly all players, of
at once claiming a revoke, thereby in
terrupting the j game, disturbing, the-4
chain of thougst, and bringing need
less confusion upon all, more especially
the player who has made the revoke.
Walt until the end ' of the hand ana
then, before recording the score make
and prove the claim. Should the claim
be disputed, gather . the tricks one by
one and search until it is either proved
or disproved.
Plain Cofckies.
One cup sugar, one-half cup butter,
two eggs, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg,
two.. small teaspoonf uls. baking, powder,
one cup milk, one-bait cup water, flour, genuine delatone. Adv,
Cream together tne butter and sugar,
add the well-beaten eggs, nutmeg, milk
which has been mixed with water, bak
ing pbwder and enough flour to -roll
without sticking. Roll thin and cut as
desired. Bake in a quick oven.
New, Positive Treatment '
to Remove Hair or Fuzz
(Beauty Notes) '- '- 1
Women are fast learning the value of
the use of -delatone for removing 'hair
or fuss from face, neck or arms. X
paste Is made with some powdered
delatone and water and spread on the
hairy surface. In 2 or S minutes It i.
rubbed off, the skin washed and every
bit of hair has disappeared. No failure
will result If you are . careful to .buy
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