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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 18, 1917)
THE SUNDAY CTvC C PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 18, 1917. NEW COAT NOW BEING WORN FORESHADOWS RETURN OF MUCH-ADMIRED DIRECTOIRE MODE Model From Lanvin, Whose Designs Are Always Rage Because of Grace and Practicability, Has Bulging Lines Below Hip With Straight Line From Shoulder to Belt Another Is Admired With Gathers and Hanging Back. . li it XVxi JL f ' - X . 1 L V; V M : ' l f '- h X - ' f ,- i-v I; " i ; 1 ' i J ' S T " ? i ' - I 5- j-1 Z, ' .5 , -4 ? ' 4 ' X : -4 I i fit A 1 4- Jst y ii I i in ," - ' ": ' J y : '' T 1 -i S ' t't' 1 . O - ' ' ' ' J ; CT x J & l ' ' J 1 THIS coat for a young1 girl is more than suggestive of the Directolre influence which is just now strongly felt in Paris. The decided and rather high waistline and collar that may be turned into an Incroyable at a moment's notice, and most of all. the double-breasted fastening, are decided ly of the Directolre style period. . There Is a hint of the military also, in the etrap trimming on the sleeve, echoed by a triple-strap belt running back from the front panel. The coat is built of mustard brown serge and a most ar resting -feature is the long pocket op ening outlined with buttons. Bulging lines below the hip of this eoat are noticeable, in contrast with the Very trim, straight line from shoulder to belt. The coat is an authoritative model from Lanvin, whose coats are always prone to become the rage, so graceful and practical they invariably are. This one is of stone-blue wool velour with buttons of blue monolith in eelf color. The collar overlaps and turns under in a new draped fashion and the huge barrel pockets extend up ward in points to which button the ends of the crossed belt. Another coat is odd, with gathers and gathers and a back, section that hangs far below the cape-like fronts. Soiree silk in a wonderful shade of coral or flame, according to the light upon it, is subdued slightly by a deep cape collar of bronze velvet and & band of the velvet holds in the gathers of the tack panel at the knee. There is also a cording and tuck hair way Op the fcack so that the coat falls from neck to knee In a straight line at the back in spite of its great fullness. Over the bronze velvet collar is a second collar of rich gold lace. Rain or Shine Parasol Is Season's Novelty. Pantlea Worn by Smart Dreaaera With Bathing Suits. ANEW rain or shine parasol Is. on the market, and a practical and desirable addition it is to woman's Summer costume. Rain or shine um brellas have been obtainable for many years, but who wants to carry an um brella when the sun shines in expec tation of a possible shower? The pretty parasol, on the contrary, is never a burden, and when a shower does happen to come up, if it may be raised in protection against the ele ments, so much the better. The rain or shine parasol is really a parasol dainty and graceful in shape, made of bright-colored silk and edged with lit tie frills; not a particle like a stern. utilitarian umbrella, but its silk will stand the rain and the ruffles will emerge crisp and graceful after the most severe soaking. Pantie bathing suits are fhe latest things in bathing raiment. . Below an extremely abbreviated skirt of silk the straight, untrimmed panties are plainly evident; not bloomers, knee breeches or ruffled pantalets, but short, rather wide little panties that fall just short of the knee cap. Like the skirt of the bathing dress, they are made of silk. Answers to Correspondents PORTLAND, Or.. Feb. 4. Having read in this morning's paper that you had lost your prune cake recipes, 1 am sending some 1 got out of your paper some time ago. MRS. F. C. R. I THANK you very much for the reci pes and hope that they may be those asked for by my correspond ent Let me know if I can return the compliment" by giving any recipe In which you may be specially inter ested. Prune Sauce Cake. Three cups smooth unsweetened prune pulp as nlck as ordinary apple sauce. 3 cup. sugar, 1 cup butter, 4 cups flour, 2 level teaspoons soda, 2 level teaspoons bak ing powder, 1 teaspoon cloves, 2 tea spoons cinnamon. Boil the prune pulp, sugar and butter for 5 minutes. Let cool, then beat in the flour sifted with the spices, soda and baking powder. Beat up one minute. Bake in a large loaf or In layers as may be most con venient. One-half the amount makes - TH'-' I I f - ; - J , ?( " A .' V i cl :?t, 'A - t - -I x I PA i A z ; - T I ? -r . , s i i 3 - J c- 1 i - . ' 1 ' but for sake of contrast and extra ef fectiveness the silk is different in pat tern or in color. A bathing dress of block checked taffeta has panties in plain color; a dress of plain taffeta has panties of striped silk. Most mod ern bathing dresses are sleeveless, but there are fascinating little rubber capes and scarfs which may be slipped on to protect the arms from sunburn while one sits on the sand. The new bathing costumes are as care fully made as reception frocks, and show the same beautiful finish and silk sewing of seams that women demand in well-made street gowns. Indeed silk sewing is most important in a bathing costume, for cheap substitutes for silk thread soon fade when exposed to sun and salt water and spoil the good looks of a pretty silk costume. sea Belts are extremely fashionable this season, and wide patent-leather belts are coming in for wear with sport frocks and separate skirts. One must wear the belt as wide as possible very slender women can stand a four or even five-inch width, but the plump, short-walsted woman looks much bet ter in a narrower belt, especially when varnished leather is the material. a good cake. Frost with white frost ing. Decorate with nuts. Can be made as above without egg or one or two eggs may be beaten in Just before the flour. Prune Nut Cake. One-half cup but ter, one cup sugar, one-half cup milk, one-half cup cornstarch, one cup flour. two level teaspoons baking powder, three egg whites, one-fourth teaspoon almond or pistachio flavoring.- Mix in the ordinary way for butter cakes, bake in a loaf. Cut in half crossways, fi with one-half cup white frosting mixed with eight steamed or soaked stoned and cut up prunes, mixed with one fourth to one-third cup chopped wal nut meats, cover with white frostin and decorate with walnut meats. Danish Prune Cake. One cup of strained prune Juice, one cup etewed prunes,, one cup white sugar, three cups sifted flour, three eggs (yolks only), five tablespoons melted butter, one teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon baking powder, one teaspoon cinna- '5 mon, one-fourth teaspoon each of cloves, allspice and nutmeg. Stone and mash prunes fine. Put all together before stirring at all. Sift soda, baking powder and spices with flour. Add cup of prune Juice, beat together but stir as little as possible. Bake in layers. Fill with whipped cream, flavored with, mocha extract. The prune filling in the second recipe might be used with any of the fore going mixtures if they were baked in layers. LEWISTOX, Idaho. Feb. 1. My wife saw by buntlay OnKoDlun you want a prune cake recipe. Here is ono 1 use a great ileal and find It great. This is a cup recipe, which most women want instead of weights, which most of us cooks use: Prune cake One teaoupful chopped prunes (cooked), i scant cupful niiKur. l-.i cupful butter. '1 egKS. v-cupful sour milk, in which dissolve 1 level tfNiHponnful soda; 2 cups flour. 1 teaiipoonf ul each of cloves, all spice and cinnamon. ihls makes 'a fine three-layer cake. I ustt a plain icing for same. If this recip helps you any. all right. CHK1', L.. L. Hi W. CO. I am certainly grateful to the many "helpers" in this prune cake business. Here is another one from "K. M. C." who gives no address. Many thanks. Dried Prune Cake. Iwo and one- half cups of sifted flour, one large cup sugar, half cup prune Juice, one cup prunes, cut not too fine; three eggs, four tablespoons of melted butter, one- half teaspoon each cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg; one teaspoon soda. Put together prunes. Juice, butter and eggs beaten well, then add sugar, spices,' soda and flour; beat lightly, bake in two layers, put together with plain boiled frosting or any you prefer. 1 have used this five years and never had a failure. And when eggs are high I often use only two. but use one tea spoon of baking powder in flour (not omitting soda). I never bake it in a loaf, but think it would do for loaf cake. Prunes must be stewed, but not NEW DESIGNS IN SUNSHADES ARE FROLICSOME AFFAIRS Ruffles, Bead Embroideries, Shirrings and All Sorts of Piquant Arrange ments of Ribbon Lend Variety and Interest to Familiar ParasoL v;'' . i '-r. y ' , jt - -r.; t' - . . . 1917 SII.VSUADE FROLICSOME: AFFAIR. .. PARASOLS are gay and coquettish this fepring. Ruffles, bead em broideries, shirrings and all sorts of piquant" arrangements of ribbon change the familiar parasol outline and lend variety and interest. The plain coaching parasol will be carried only with severely tailored walking: costumes; even the sport cos tume has Its gay and frivolous eun shade and ruffles are not considered inappropriate for sport occasions so far as the parasol is concerned at too soft. Hoping- this may be of use. K. M. C PORTLAKD. Or.. Feb. . Mlra Tlnrle: Am enclosing soma prune cake reclpa asked for In The Sunday Oregonian of February 4. by Mrs. W. H. I These recipea were publlnhd In your column. I wonder If you would ale ma the recli for caramel candy that calls for three cupa augrar, to be melted to a light brown syrup; one-half cup white corn syrup or rlucoee. Have forgotten the ; other Inaredlenta. Thanking you in advance, (MRS.) C. H. W. I am very glad to have the recipes. I will try to give you the candy direc tions if you can tell me the texture. Was It creamy," "waxy," "chewy," grained" or brittle? Had It nuts or was it plain? Please write again. Prune Cake No. 1 One cup sugar. one-half cup of butter. -, yolks of three eggs. whites of two eggs, one and one-half cups flour. one teaspoon each cloves, nutmeg, cinna mon, sifted-in flour, one teaspoon soda sifted with the flour, one-fourth cup sour milk, one tablespoon prune Juice, one cup chopped steamed prunes. Mix like any buttercake. Bake in layers. Put together with boiled, frosting. Chopped nuts or a mixture of equal parts chopped wa'uts and chopped soft prunes may be used mixed with the white icing aa filling between the layers. , February 1 In last Sunday's Oreronlan I noticed a request by "Country Subscriber" for a aoap recipe. I, too. knew absolutely nothing about aoap-making until I found recipe In Cookery Craft." an excellent recipe book published by the Presbyterian women of Grants Paaa. I have tried the recipe twice and have made Xlne aoap very eaally. The following recipe may prove of Interest to others. MRS. 1. C. Many thanks for your recipe. I am sure my soap-making correspondent will be interested. In these days of high prices home soap-making has again become a worth-while small economy for many thrifty housewives. Borax soap. Mrs. L. C. Stir 1 can of lye and y cup of borax in 3 pints of cold water with a stick until dis COAT FROCKS ARE LATEST FOR JFASHIONABLE WOMEN New Coats Have Peaceful Lines That Fit and Flare Belt Becomes Knotted Pocket That Is Emphasized by Ornamentation. w HILE stunning coats over pretty silk frocks are the vogue women are making the most of the practical combination and so are man ufacturers. The garment manufacturer is the most adaptable being in the world; now that separate coats are the rage and alluring models by the score are being added to woman's wardrobe, attractive coats form a major part of Spring displays in the shops these days, and, verily, it is hard to choose among the fetching styles. The la. test addition to coat wear or should one say dress - wear? is the coat-frock. A hybrid garment, this: neither one thing nor 'tother, yet a little of both: a garment that is In dubitably a compromise, but such a delightful compromise that it is prom ised a tremendous vogue this season. The coat-frock looks like a frock, but is really a coat. It may even be donned over a frock, or over a skirt and blouse. It falls to the very hem of the skirt beneath and a little over the top of the buttoned walking- boot, so one may wear the coat-frock above a white , linen house dress if one pleases, or above a dance frock of silk and lace, and yet appear appareled for the street. These coat-frocks are -of rather light material, so that the frock semblance may be carried out. They are of chif fon broadcloth, of serge, of mohair and worsted mixture and of silk; but the favored models for early Spring wear are of serge, with trimming of but tons, silk stitching or embroidery, and, of course, the lines give the frock rather than the coat suggestion. An authoritative coat-frock is of navy blue serge and is trimmed only with white pearl buttons. The buttons are set very closely down the single-breasted front opening, from the neck (where there is a small turnover collar) to within five inches of the hem (which Just hides a buttoned walking bdot). At the sides the coat is pleated, the pleats running down from a breast pocket at either side. A narrow belt, attached to the front of the coat laps back over these pleats at the waist line, holding the garment in trim lines to the ligure. A second belt passes obliquely over the hips from the front section, controlling the pleats several inches below the waistline. Below, the pleats flare loosely, adding to the grace of the coat in the skirt portion. Grace Feature of Sprlnar Coat Wear. Grace, in fact, is the salient feature of the coat for Spring. Lines above the waist are trim and figure defining without in any way suggesting- tight ness,, and below the waist the coat has a pretty flare, accomplished by clev erly placed pleats or a circular cut and - occasionally by gathers. Of the latter type is a traveling coat of olive green wool velour, with very loose lines, confined into trimness by a nar row belt of the material. This belt is most cleverly arranged and attests the skill of its designer. Indeed, one must -J least. This new sunshade of mulberry colored eliK is trimmed with rose pat terned Dresden taffeta, the roses re peating the rich mulberry shade In various soft tones. One strip of the taffeta edges the cover and a second strip Is puffed and festooned above, the silk drawn to its widest extent at each rib and gathered under a covered button midway of the space between ribs. The parasol has a handle of black enameled wood tip ped with onyx and a silk tassel match lne the -rose printed taffeta. solved. Clarify and strain S pounds of grease; when cool, add the lye and borax; stir hard until weiimnw. j-.ua V. cud of ammonia and stir until tnicK, then pour into greased pans or wooden boxes. Keep in a warm place at first and cut when cool. Ashland, Or. Dear Miss Tingle: May I ask you to give through your column in the paper a recipe lor tomato jeuo saiadT Do you beat the tomatoes? I thank you. Youn sincerely. R. L. R. Several recipes for tomato Jelly salads have been given recently and therefore cannot be repeated. Following- is an easy recipe that can be varied to suit personal taste and decorated In any preferred way. Easier still is to use a can of tomato soup with stock or hot water to taste and combine the hot mixture with gela tine that has been soaked and softened aver hot water, using 4 package gela tine to 1 pint liquid. Use rather less liquid in hot weather, or. if you want a whipped Jelly or tomato Jelly, sponge in place of a plain Jelly. Another "canned soup" trick is to combine 1 cup' stiff beaten whipping cream. 1 cup undiluted tomato soup, and 2 tablespoons gelatine (soaked and dissolved over hot water). Mould In cups, rings or squares. Serve as "to mato cream salad," on heart of lettuce leaves with French dressing1 either alone or combined with such materials aa chopped celery of sliced stuffed ol ives, or peas, or asparagus, or chopped green peppers. Tomato Jelly salad Cook 1 pint to matoes, a slice of onion and a stalk of celery for IS minutes. Rub through a sieve, season to taste and combine with H-Tcka-e gelatine softened In 14 -cup cold water and completely dls solved over hot water. Pour Into small cups (wet with cold water), chill, un mould on lettuce or endive and serve with French dressing-. The salad may be left plain or deco rated with sliced em olives, very tiny pickles or nut meats. . Usually the plain service is in better taste. I hope to reply to "M."M. B." "Mr. C," "Young Housekeeper,' "Mrs. H. C. D." and others next week. admit that coat designers are artists these days. They handle materials with masterly skill, forming: back sec tions into pockets and running belts out from front planes In most clever ways, yet never interfering by a detail of cut with the flowing, beautiful lines of the complete garment. The olive wool velour coat has a back panel that points Bharply forward over the hips and along the lower edge of the point the skirt of the coat Is gathered, giv ing a full flare at the hip. A narrow belt, coming forward at the waistline from the back panel, crosses in front, ,and its ends button 'to the points of the panel. Huge barrel pockets on the skirt of the coat below the gather run up to meet the point and end at the button that attaches the belt. Barrel pockets give the proper bulge at the sides, below the hip. and inci dentally add much to the style of the Spring coat. French couturiers are bringing out barrel coats that bulgo decidedly twixt hip and knee, but the American woman, seems to prefer a coat with rather straight lines, the fashionable bulge given by a big bar rel pocket. Mustard and Olive Favored Colors. Many of the coats are navy blue; some are tan or gray in shade; but the color of colors seems to be a green ery-yailery shade called mustard, or live, or citron, aa one chooses. There is a decided smartness about these very conspicuous coats. They are very much more chic and also more strlk ing than ordinary blue or tan mod els; but one should beware of the mus tard shade, for once fashion has tired of it. it Is likely to go out with a rush There Is one excellent thine about these mustard and olive models they are usually sewed throughout with silk thread, as any coat ounht to be. but. alas, these days of unscrupulous manu facturers, too often is not. The subtle shades are hard to match in cheap thread substitutes for silk: silk must be used for the sake of appearance in the coat of unusual color, much to the benefit of the coat. For tailored gar ments sewed with silk in seams and details keep their shape better and have a more distinguished look, espe cially after a few weeks of wear, than garments seamed up with cheap-thread substitutes, which pucker and shrink after exposure to dampness and fade sadly after exposure to strong sun light. Soutache oa Spring- Coat Wear. . Soutache embroidery, so fashionable this season, is In its most appropriate place on ' the coat, and has been used most artistically on some of the new models. For example, there is a good looking1 coat of dark blue serge with collar and cuff trimming- of gray faille matinee silk and an ornamentation of gray soutache embroidery on the sash belt and pocket opening. The pocket opening, in fact. is. the conspicuous style feature of this coat. The open ing itself is merely a five-inch slash running: down from the belt, but the gray soutache embroidery outlining it runs far down the skirt of the coat in an effective pattern. Smart coats for sport, motor and traveling wear are of pontrhe. a ma terial waxed on the outer side, with a texture like supple leather, and hav ing an Inner sslde of silk or cloth a coat lining already attached. In gray pontine with inner side of bright red, blue or green silk, these coats are ex tremely stunning. There are leather- colored pontine models, too, with inner side of white silk or of orange silk. A pontine coat, with hat to match, makes a very smart and practical mo tor costume, for this material minds neither cold winds nor damp weather, keeping- its wearer warm and dry. Evening coats for Spring- restaurant wear are of soiree or faille matinee silk in most lovely shades of orchid, flame, coral, rose, hyacinth, and so on. Many of these coats have collars of metal lace, and the silk is corded and shirred to show off its shimmering- splendor of color. Hand - Drawn Blouses of Tinted Crepe Worn. Fleah-Colored Georgette Crepe Af fected la Latest Paris Modes. riHERE are lovely new blouses of I flesh-colored or mais georgette crepe with decoration of hand drawn embroidery the latest wrinkle from Paris.- Hand-sewn and always ex actly matching the material are these dainty blouses for any substitute for silk thread in the seams of an exclu sive blouse spell shame to its maker! The woman who can do simple drawn- thread patterns and has the patience and the good eyesight to draw threads in sheer silk crepe can have two or three of these smart waists for Spring wear at moderate cost; for of course the high prices asked for the French models pay for the hand work on them; two or three yards of crepe georgette do not cost an excessive sum. Hand drawn patterns must be done straight up and down or across the material they may pot follow curves. -rnereiore, inese Diouses nave very t ide armholes and '.he sleeve, wide at the top and tapering into a straight cuff, is put in with a line of drawn thread work. The turnover collar has drawn-thread work above a tiny hem: the same trimming elaborates the nar row, straight Ot 1 1 a. and the surplice iTa r WONDERLIFT' Hygienic Service Wonderlift device when adjusted' in correct position. Wonderlift Bandlet does the work of healthy abdominal muscles. Combination of front steels with adjustable Bandlets lifts internal organs into normal positioa. Curved front steels equalize, control, uplift and hold superfluous flesh on abdomen imposition. Garters, detached from front steels, avoid pressure over abdomen. 1 2 3 .4 5 The wonderful Wonderlift perfectly performs the two things a corset should do preserves health and enhances beauty. It has established a new .science in corset fitting and adjustment. Study the Wonderlift carefully and deeply. If you haven't done that, you know nothing of what it can do is doing for womankind. The patented feature that preserve health also produce unequaled style Eight distinct Wonderlift models for every type of figure, from lean and bony to super-stout $5.00, $7.50, $10 and $12 BE A WISE WOMAN! Study the Wonderlift closely. Get the model made for YOU. Enjoy the style, comfort and health made possible by this unique and super-valuable invention. ComJ Strwm Evmwywhmrm fronts of the blouse are finished with two and a half inch wide bands of the material, used double and trimmed with two lines of drawn-thread work and sprays of fine hand-embroidery be tween. Tiny plntucks, run by hand, are set across the shoulder at back and front to give the blouse that soft full- ea that is liked this season. Any thing like skimplness is to be avoided In the blouse of this year, but crepes and tub silks are so soft of texture that there is no fear of bulkiness. LITTLE BEXNV'S NOTEBOOK. My cousin Artis stayed at our house for supptr yestidday. wich we had veet cutlet and things, being all rite, and 1 was enjoying myself eating, and ma sed, Benny, for merseys sakes take your time, you .don't see your euzzln Artie eating like a famished lion, do you? Always eat slo, sed Artie. Like fun you do. I sed. Benny, sed pop. you mussent cast asparagus on your kumpanys table manners, its not dun in the best fami lies. Well, ma was casting it on mine. I sed. And I keep on enjoying myself eating-, and prltty soon ma sed. Benny, Im serprized. the ideer of taking a peece of bred in your hand and mop ping up your gravy, you dont see your cuzzin Artie doing that. That dont say he dont do It wen hes home, I sed. I never do, sed Artie. The heck you dont, I've saw you, I sed. Benny, thats not; hospltalbll. sed pop. Well its. troo, I sed. Truth is Impoliter than fickshin. sed pop. And him and ma and my -sister Qladdis finished thare suppir and went out of the dining- room and me and Artie stayed there eating our peece of mints pie. .and as soon as everybody was out Artie sed. G. I hate to eat Die with a fork. And wat did he do but pick his peece up in his hands and eat It that Way. O. you dont call that good manners. do you? I sed. Serteny I do, sed Artie. And he kepp on eating it that way with all the mints meet falling out. Proving you never can tell till you see sumbody wen nobody is looking. Lee Pape, in Chicago Daily News. An Impromptu Shade. When the side electric bulb is Jut a 111 " 1111 I m. tfvoA VI m r a P L Style Service Removes ing poise. "sway back by correct- Improves contour of body by uplift ing and reducing superfluous flesh. Flattens abdomen youthful lines. into normal. Reduces size 'of abdomen: ghrea proper "hang" and style to skirt. Holds corset dose. Insures smooth lines over hips and thighs. NSM HnSaaic-Fasataa latitats. Not Tark dry trifle too glaring for the work which! you are doing, or if it shines tool brightly in a bedroom where c softe glow is desired. Just try slipping plain manila envelope of business six over the bulb. The fact that you hav to press the envelope at the ends make it gap enough to be slipped over the bulb gives it enough resistance to keep it in place. Of course, this is not a sightly shade, but it answers the purpose when a soft light is required in a hurry. To Blacken Boots. Fasten the boots up, stuff them tight with tissue paper or soft rags. Brush well till free from dust and then ap ply the black liquid suede dressing. which is sold at all bootmakers shops for renovating black suede shoes. Let the boots dry thoroughly before re moving the stuffing. Then give a sec ond application. It may be necessary to (rive them three or even four appli cations of the dressing, and the boots should be dried thoroughly before each application. Sure Way to Get r Rid of Dandruff There is one sure way that never falls to remove dandruff completely and that is to dissolve It. This destroys it. en tirely. To do this. Just get about four ounces of plain, ordinary liquid arvon: apply it at night when retiring;- use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it in gently with the finger tips. By morning most, if not all, of your dandruff will be gone, and three.' or four more applications will completely dissolve and entirely destroy ever' sin gle sign and trace of It, no matter how much dandruff you may have. You will find, too, that all itching and digging of the scalp will stop Instantly, and your hair will be fluffy, lustrous. glossy, silky and soft, and look and feel a hundred times better. You can get liquid arvon at any drug store. It is inexpensive, and four ounces is all you will need. This simple remedy has never been known to fail. Adv.- mw CrEheMUlys VIOLET" li l a 4 S "win rrf ; ''A'SC-Vi - 'a VrV I- ! k