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TnE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTL.VXD, FZTiRUART IS, 1217.
NEW. COAT-FROCK WITH TRIM LINES IS
ALL THE RAGE FOR WOMENS SPRING WEAR
Garment May Be "Worn Over Silk Frock, or Silk Sport Skirt and Blouse With It Go Tailored Sport Headgear
and Correct Street Boots of Buttoned Type.
GROUP PORTRAITS OF WOMEN WHO HAVE
, WON PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN NEWS
East Pittsburg Girl to Wed British Army Aviator Wilmington Girl Is to Inherit $60,000,000 Memorial to
George Washington Is to Cost $2,700,000 Dancer Has Wonderful Chinese Gown Created Especially for Her.
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DRESSES are so much more fash-1
lonable than suits just now for
formal wear that some astute
tailor has brought out the coat-frock,
which has immediately become the
rage. Like a coat, it covers one from
top to toe. or rather from throat to
buttoned boot, and like a coat it is
easily donned and has a trim, out-of-door
smartness.
The coat-frock pictured here Is of
blue cloth with white buttons effec
tively used as trimming and a very
clever strap-belt arrangement which
controls pleats running down from
breast pockets. The coat-frock may be
worn over a silk frock or silk sport
skirt and blouse. "With it go tailored
port headgear and correct street
boots of the buttoned type.
So graceful are the Spring coats
that woman Is, going to look her very
best this year. With a full swinging
flare below the waistline, the coat has
a semi-fitted effect above. There Is
no hint of tightness, but the aim
toward trim lines is apparent. A good
looking model is made of gabardine in
the rich mustard shade, now so fash
ionable. The panel section extending
below the belt at the back is a grace
ful detail; the cuffs are wide and the
collar has a curved cut 'that is par
ticularly effective. The coat shows the
edge of a blue serge frock and walk
ing boots with buttoned fabric tops.
Soutache touches everything with
the wand of -smartness Just now, and
many of the new coats show the sou
tache decoration. Not on collar and
cuff, as might be expected, has sou
tache been applied to this Spring coat
of dark blue cloth, but in an orna
mental motif around the pockets and
In smaller motifs on the sash ends.
The soutache is gray, and the coat
has a collar and cuff trimming of
gray faille matinee silk. It is most
essential that a coat be sewed through- dampness and fade in the sunlight,
out with silk, and not a cheap thread I and silk sewing is particularly impor
eubstltutes which will pucker from ' tant wheh soutache Is applied.
uctiqn
UNBLOCKING is a form of play by
which we try to rid our hand of :
such card or cards of partner's
suit as might otherwise block the suit;
that is, force us in the lead at a time
when we have no card of the suit left
to lead back to him. , .
Ignorant or careless play in the re
spect of unblocking often results in
the loss of one or more tricks, the
holder of the suit being unable to r
- gain the lead and the long cards of his
euit failing to make.
Unblocking applies chiefly to "no
trumps." At a trump, because of the
Inevitable trumping, an adverse suit is
rarely brought in. and establishment
of tactics are optional rather than
obligatory. One's first lead, therefore,
does not by any means necessarily
tand for one's longest suit.
At "no trumps' the conditions are
entirely different. All ' suits being
equal, so far as trick-taking purposes
are concerned, the lead, as a rule, is
from 'one's longest suit, if it be not
already established, with a view to its
establishment and final bringing in.
To aid in this effort becomes, there
fore, third player's first aim and con
sideration. It is the shorter hand, be
It distinctly understood, that unblocks
to the longer. When partner at a "no
trump" declaration leads a high card
(the lead not being to the suit we
have Indicated) he shows exceptional
strength in the suit, - high card o
numerical, or perhaps both. It be
hooves us, therefore, to be alert and
watchful and take all the precautions
possible to avoid blocking the suit.
Third-Hand Rales Given.
The following rules apply to third
band upon the partner's lead of a high
card at "no trumps."
If holding king and one other card
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Bridge
only of the suit to the lead of ace, play
king. If holding ace and one other
card only to the lead of king, play
ace.. .
These plays, it must be understood,
as are all plays in auction, are sub
ject to disclosures from the dummy
hand which would render them un
wise. Most decidedly they should not
be observed should dummy hold such
cards of the suit as because of their
observance would ultimately be in com
mand, as, for instance, jack twice
guarded or ten three times guarded.
If holding three cards. Including one
or more honors, of the suit to which
partner leads high, to the first round
we play our middle card, to the second
round our best, keeping the lowest
until the third round.
To Illustrate. We hold ace, king and
one small of the suit to which partner
leads queen. His holding must be
queen, jack, ten, or queen, jack, nine,
four or more. To the lead of queen we
play king, at once return the ace, and
then the small card, leaving our partv
ner in command for the third round
with, in the generality of cases, his
suit established.
If holding four cards, with or with
out an honor small cards may block
just as effectually as high ones of
the suit to which partner leads -high,
to the first round we play our third
best card, to the second round second
best and to the third round best. Thus,
as in the above-mentioned case, we
are left with the smallest with which
to put partner again in the lead, or
at least to avoid talcing the lead from
him in the event that he Is in the lead.
If holding five cards of the suit to
which partner leads high, to the first
round we play our fourth best card.
to the second round, up or down, as
developments apparently make ex
pedient. If indications point to our
being longer in the suit than partner,
we so play, it goes without saying, as
to establish the suit in our hand .rather
than in his.
While there are. no definite rules for
unblocking when partner's first lead is
a low card, the principles governing
the play are the same as those given.
If these be thoroughly understood a
player should have no difficulty in
recognizing and improving the oppor
tunities ap.Mey develop for unblock
ing. To partner's lead of king at a trump
declaration, third hand's play of a
higher, and to the second round of a
lower card of the suit, shows no more
of the suit and the ability to trump
the third round. The play is called an
echo and as seen from the above Is
made when two cards only of the suit
are held, one not an honor. Some
players observe the same form upon
the partner's lead of king when hold
ing queen and two small cards of the
suit. In either case the play shows the
aoillty to win the third round of the
suit either by trumping of with the
queen, and encourages partner to go a
tnira round, provided of course dis
closures from the dummy of the fall
irom the declarer do not make it
seemingly unwise. If It is likely 4hat
third hand, (the partner), helds the
queen and the-suit if ruffed at all will
be ruffed by the strong hand (the de
claror) the suit as a rule should be con
tinued.
Return TLead Is Important.
Another very important, play on the
part or tne adversaries .s the return
lead: the proper suit and card, that is.
to lead when we have won the trick
In the suit led by ov partner. This
play varies according as to whether
we are playing at a trump or a no
trurnp declaration. I will consider it
first at no trumps."
At "no trumps," unles- the lead be
to our euit. indicated or Inferred, we
assume It to stand for partner's suit;
the suit in which he holds the great
est number of cards and desires to es
tablish. Therefore, upon winning his
lead, or as soon thereafter as securing
the lead, we as a rule, should f-t once
return the suit and aid him in his ef
forts at establishment. In returning
his suit we lead the highest card we
hold of the suit regardless of its value.
This play is particularly effective when
such card is higher than any cards of
the suit held by dummy, as it "beats
the dummy" from the . tart, and gives
partner the advantage of position. Even
though the command of partner's suit
be held by the dummy, or it is evident
that a high card, perhaps the command,
be with the declarer, unless in either
case it ie known that they hold an es
tablished suit which may at once be
run off. the suit as a rule should be
returned. (Exceptions to the return of
partner's suit will be given below.)
To be sure If we hold an established
suit, we should first make our suit
and then return partner's. So, also, if
having reason to believe a reason ex
isting In fact and not simply in our
Imagination that our suit may be
more easily established than our part
ner's, we at the came time , holding re
entry, may usually shift to our suit.
In any case we should not fail to lead
one round of our suit (the king) from
a euit headed by an ace, king and
jack, and less than ever if queen of the
suit be with dummy, as it would fur
nish partner with a valuable clew later
for a lead through dummy's queen.
Partner's Salt returned.
Save in? exceptional cases, however,
we at once return partner's suit; the
suit which has once been led and is one
round nearer established than ours. If
there Is any ooubt on the subject the
benefit of the doubt should be given
to partner's suit. It is difficult to es
tablish one suit; to attempt to establish
two is usually the height of folly. Be
sides, In view of the immense advant
age enjoyed by the declarer In rising
enabled to see and play his partner's
hand, it is of the greatest Importance
that the adversaries concentrate their
efforts upon one and thj same goal. If
each of them works separately and in
dependently, their wjrk is uneven and
divided, and not only do they fall to
accomplish the greatest good for their
side, but they often contribute in no
small degree to the success of the op
posing side.
Cases where the return of the part
ner's suit would not be adviscble:
When ace, queen of the suit appear
with dummy. To do so save with the
jack, would doubtless kill partner's
klnr: when any tenance Is held;
by the dummy oyer a probable single
honor held by our partner: when
dummy shows such exceptional
strength In the suit that It would only
tend to establish the suit in his hand
rather than In our partner's.
As many considerations enter Into the
return lead at a declared trump, this
phase of the question will be reserved
until another Issue.
Just what headway Is being: made by
pirate bridge It Is difficult to say. So
far as I have been able to determine,
among- our local players there is very
little enthusiasm or even curiosity con
cerning it. everyone apparently wait
ing for someone else to take the initia
tive. R. F. Foster, by whom the game was
launched and who is most enthusiastic
over its reception, predicts that it, will
be a short time only before it will en
tirely supplant auction. On the other
hand. Milton C. "Work, chairman of the
card committee of the New York Whist
Club, and one of the best authorities
on scientific card games In the country,
refers to it as having created simply
"a ripple on the sea of auction popu
larity." A vigorous criticism of the
game from his pen appeared in a re
cent number of the New York Times
and was answered quite as vigorously
by Mr. Foster in a later number of the
New York Sun.
Private advices from prominent play
ers in the East refer to it as "impos
sible," "trash," etc.. and say that it Is
not being considered seriously In any
of the New York clubs.
However, the outcome is still diffi
cult to surmise. If the game over
comes the objectionable features in
auction, which It Is claimed to do,
without In Its turn developing greater
and more glaring defects, it should be
an ideal game and the game par ex
cellence of the not distant future.
Time and further experience only
will fully determine the question.
Shark Skins Being Tried Out
for Leather.
Smartest Boots for Afternoon and
Formal Wear Have Fabric Tops.
THE BUREAU OF FISHERIES of the
Department of Commerce has taken
up the possible value of shark skins in
making various kinds of leather, says
the Scientific American.
Shark skins have been used for some
years for the making of purses and
other small articles, ornamental and
useful, but now. with shoe leather be
coming such a luxury that all the
world is taking to wearing fabric boots
or at least fabric boot tops sharic
skin, or a certain leather which some
one has succeeded in preparing from
the skin of the sea monster, may ere
long be appearing in the smart shoe
dealer's window In tapered vamps and
smartly buttoned tops. Just now. ne
cessity, the mother of invention, has
made fabric boot tops- the rasnion as
many another tactful mother has im
pelled her family to find her make
shifts altogether desirable.
The smartest boots for afternoon and
formal wear have fabric tops but
toned, of course, for only the sport
shoe is permitted laces now by Dame
Fashion. Even men are taking to fab
ric boot tops in preference to leather
ones, and very few of the folk who de
mand, fabric-topped footwear of the
clerk In the shoe shop give a thought
to the fact that the scarcity of leather
and not the mode is Impelling their re
quest. But by and by, no doubt, fabric
boot tops may cease being so fashion
able and If the dreadful dearth of shoe
leather is to continue it Is devoutly
hoped that the advocates of shark skin
will be ready to supply all that Is
needed for milady's dancing slippers
and buttoned afternoon boots andj
lord's golf and wedding footwear.
Wooden Beads Are Smart
Idea for Spring Girdle.
Sort Frork, JLooaely Bound by Long
ford. Takes Most Trim and Grace
ful Ilnes Lsig Ends Left Dan
BJllnBT. THE smartest way to finish the
Spring frock at the waistline is
with a girdle of beads and here
is a picture of a new bead -girdle,
made of wooden beads and long enough
to go around the waist and tie(in a
knot, with long, dangling ends.
At the ends are handsome silk tas
sels with odd little metal discs above,
and those tassels and Oriental discs are
the notable features of smart new bead
sashes, The bead girdle, being rather
heavy, makes a soft silk frock, cut
loosely in the Russian or Moyenage
style, take trim, graceful lines at the
waist, and the girdle may be drawn as
closely, or left as loose as its wearer
finds becoming.
The girdle pictured is made of dark
blue wooden beads with tassels of gold
colored silk and discs in reddish orange
shade. It will look well with a frock
of citron or mustard faille matinee silk.
POINTED PARAGRAPHS.
From Chicago Daily - ews.
When a man talks much about him
self he has nothing much to talk about.
Many a man suffers painful exposure,
though all wrapped up in himself.
Some men are so unworthy of confi
dence that their own dogs distrust
them.
If you want a girl to respect your
Judgment tell her that you admire her.
A philosopher gains renown by en
during other, people's troubles with
resignation.
Innocence is like an umbrella. When
once it is lost it is useless to advertise
for it.
Girls learning to skate prefer fat
men as instructors because they are so
soft to fail on.
Life Is worth living except when the
girl in the next apartment is practicing
her piano lesson.
Son, learn wisdom from the tailor.
When he transacts business with a man
he starts by taking the man's measure.
Every one is presumed to know the
law except the Judge, and there is a
court of appeals to correct his mistakes.
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MARY E. Slawter. of East Pitts
burgh, is to marry Lieutenant
Reginald Charley of the Royal
Flying Corps after the war. He went
to England when the war broke out
and has been serving as an airman
since.
Miss Louise Wise, of Wilmington, is
to be the owner some day of $60,000.
000. Her aunt. Mrs. H. M. Flagler, in
herited that amount from her husband,
the Florida railroad man, and she has
said that she is arranging to have it
pass to Miss Wise. Miss Wise Is al
ready well-off.
Margaret Fahnestock. whose parents
have homes in Washington and New
port, has made her debut at the capl-
Sewing Cabinet or Screen Is
Aid to Tidiness.
Littered Appearance Can Be Avoid
ed When. Work Is Doae In Bed
room or Slttlnar-Room.
WHEN there Is no special sewing
room, and all the mending and
home dressmaking must be done in a
bedroom or general sitting-room, the
neatest woman is rather put to a It to
Weep her surroundings shipshape and
tidy. A litter of sewing implements,
scraps of fabric and unfinished work
does not add to the appearance of any
room, and even a tiny sewing-room in
which the workbasket and machine
may be kept and half finished 'garments
left without being disturbed when other
duties call. Is the greatest convenience.
If this is Impossible, a great aid to
tldinesst in the room where sewing
must be done, is a sewing cabinet or
small screen on the inner sides ot
which all the sewing paraphernalia
may be kept. Placed across a corner
of the room, or in an angle by the win
dow, the screen fences off a cosy little
space for the worker: and seated be
hind It in a low sewing chair she may
look over it, yet the work spread all
around her will not have any effect of
disorder in the room.
A good screen of this sort is about
32 Inches high, with two panels I
Inches wide. It is made of white paint
ed .wood with cretonne shirred or
stretched in panel effect in the white
frame. Across the inside of the panels,
two-thirds of the way up, are cross
pieces of the wood with small metal
pins set two inches apart, and over
these pins are to be slipped spools
one or two of cheap, thread for basting,
some heavy linen thread for sewing on
masculine buttons, and many . spools
of silk for dressmaking purposes.
It is always a mistake to put any
substitute for silk in the seams of a
garment of distinction, and most of
the manufactured models of the better
class are now sewed throughout with
silk, so insistent have women generally
become about this matter.
Above the, ledge with its spools of
silk are hooks in the upper cross-piece
for scissors. Hinged covers that close
up when the screen Is put away fall
forward and make convenient work
tables; under the spool rack are hooks
for bags in which small belongings are
kept; and across the lower third of
the panels are shirred pockets to hold
unfinished needlework.
Health and Beauty.
Facial gymnastics are responsible for
wrinkles that find lodgment over the
entire face, from forehead to the chin.
Well-poised women seldom have wrin
kles, because they have a firm grip on
both nerves and emotions.
Corns really are warning signs that
we are Ill-treating our feet, either by
wearing tight shoes which In time de
form the hones of the foot or by wear
ing shoes which permit the foot to
chafe, thus submitting the surface of
the foot to intermittent pressure. .
When the eyes are weak a green
shade prevents the glare from striking
in. Clerical workers, as a rule, use
this protection both for shielding the
eyes and keeping the muscles of the
face in a relaxed condition. The same
precaution should be taken by needle
women. For croup in children have ready at
hand a mixture of powdered alum and
sugar1 two parts sugar to one of the
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tal. She will figure in the Summer
news from Newport.
Mrs. Henry F. Dlmock has started a
campaign to raise S2.700.000 for a
memorial building in Washington to
George Washington. , Washington, left
$25,000 for "the diffusion of know
ledge." It was lost - through bad in
vestment. Now the George Washing
ton Memorial Association proposes to
realize Washington's wishes by erect
ing a great building for that purpose.
alum. Give a little of this (about the
size of a navy bean) as quickly as pos
sible when the cough comes on. and
you will find quick relief.
Dark rings under the eyes show that
the body in one way or another is being
overtaxed by worry, or that the physi
cal system is deranged. Lack of rest,
late hours, or an irregularity of the
kidneys will bring those gray, heavy
lines. Drink plenty of water every
day; get out of doors regularly; look
after the diet and get to bed early.
Chance and Authorship.
Fronl the New York Sun.
There Is. perhaps, no profession In
which the element of chance enters
more strongly than that of the writer.
It Is a slippery road to travel, and only
a few are sure of even a temporary
foothold that may or may not lead them
into the realm of the "best sellers."
An Interesting phase of those who
belong to our so-called literary world
of the past and present generation is
that few of them started in life with
the thought of becoming professional
writers. They were trained for other
professions or business careers, and it
was by chance they discovered their
abilities to write a readable tale.
There are those who fairly blundered
Into literature, and awoke to find them
selves famous overnight. A striking
instance of this was Edward Eggleston.
a successful novelist of a generation
ago, who figuratively fell down the
stairs into an income of $10,000 a year.
Giving up the life of a Western circuit
rider, he came to New York to become
the editor of Hearth and Home. A
regular writer of that periodical failed
on one occasion to forward a story, and
Mr. Eggleston volunteered to "fill in."
He wrote his experiences as a wander
ing Methodist minister in Indiana. The
story struck a popular chord, and his
renders wanted more. To supply the
'J3ach.
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Mrs. Dlmock is president of the organ
ization. Mrs. Allan Forbes is one of the love
liest of the young matrons of New
York. She was Miss Crosby befors
her marriage to Mr. Forbes.
Florence Walton, gifted-dancer now
In the "Century Girl." has a Chinese
dress. It is of orange net embroidery
and crystal with white flowers. It
was especially created for her.
demand, he wrote "The Circuit Rider,"
"The Hoosier Schoolmaster" and other
popular etories that are still on ths
book shelves.
No less interesting is the story of
the late E. I. Roe, whose stories are
still remembered by those of middle
age. A wandering preacher and lectur
er, he was In Chicago at the time of
the great fire. So strong was the Im
pression that the calamity made upon
him that he wrote "Barriers Burned
Away." It won Instant success and
was followed by several other popular
novels which are still on sale.
Grated Apple Pudding.
Four to six grated tart apples, eight
eggs, eight tableBpoonfuls granulated
sugar. Juice and rind one lemon, a
handful of chopped almonds and a level
teaspoonful of cinnamon. Beat ths
yolks of the eggs and the sugar to a
thick cream. Add the cinnamon and
lemon, apple and eggs, beaten to-a stiff
froth. Bake in a moderately quick
oven.
Very Effective Method
for Banishing; Hairs
(Modes of Today.)
At very little cost any woman can
rid her face of hairy growths if sh
will use the delatone treatment. This
Is made by mixing some water with
a little powdered delatone. This paste
is spread upon the hairy surface for
two or three minutes, then rubbed off
and the skin washed, when every
trace of hair will have vanished. No
harm results' from this treatment, but
care should be used to buy real dela
tone. Adv.
J3ace brSr'on
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