Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 11, 1917)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 11, 1917. V V DEBUTANTE FROCKS GLEAM WITH WHITE BRILLIANCE OF SILVER; GOLD FOR MATRON Splendor Is Keynote of Young Matron's Evening Gown Garment for Winter Bride's Formal Dinner Wear and Later Dancing Is Gleaming White With Lovely Lines. Iftl 1 sj mil ' rx 2JmO- - W' I . : If -r v LJ rr;i : jig r; ir---4 - l"a-r'1 , ' ' "11 Jl I -:: .JS::-::5'!- t - ' "'. . " - ! : t'",-,J- '31 DEBUTANTE frocks gleam with the white brilliance of silver; gold is for the matron. One lovely dance frock from Lanvln has three flounces of silver lace on a foundation of gathered white tulle; the youthful bodice is of silver lace over tulle. Skirt and draped sash are of pale blue faille matinee silk and the skirt shows an elongated section at the back the new "half train" which does not touch the floor but falls considerably below the hem of a short dancing skirt. A rose in the new cyclamen pink shade gives a smart note of color contrast at the waistline. v v The youthful matron is resplendent in her evening gown; never were cos tumes designed for appearance by candlelight so gorgeous and draped over a petticoat of silver lace; this in turn dropped above a foundation of silver net edged with silver fringe. Bllver lace veils the shoulders and the d-aped girdle is of silver brocade. Small silk roses in shades from pale lavender to deep heliotrope are fes tooned across the bodice and along tue edge ofthe train, which Is of pale lav ender tulle over silver brocade. Lovely lines indeed has one gleaming yhite gown intended for formal dinner wear and perhaps dancing afterward, for the costume was designed for a youthful bride of the Winter. Silver brocade forms the bodice and upper skirt drapery and the sweep of line, beginning at the graduated edge of the bodice is continued in the skirt which slopes downward toward the end of the train. To the brocade overdress Is attached a flounce of crystal beaded net weighted with crystal-encrusted balls arranged In groups. Below is a flounce of crystal-beaded net. The train is of silver brocade. Sewing Terms Many. - Ehlrrings consist of a number of rows of gatherings either on tucked or plain material. Ruching is made like ' ruffles, but usually is not wide, and is hemmed on both edges and gathered or pleated In the center. Cording is made in the same way as hirring or gathering, only the mate rial is folded in tuck effect, over a cord and is stitched with a 'running stitch. Seams are bound with a small run ning stitch, the tape or other , binding being held down over the seam edge while sewing. Catstitching forms a sort of seam stitch from left to right, with a short stitch frfom right to left, having tRe needle point in the dlrectjon opposite to the direction of the thread. The needle is drawn out and the slanting and short stitch continued alternately. O'Scz-.r' Lcgz j-ocAr Sy&t S'd' 7-eV3 quest from the Parent-Teacher Asso ciation. Raisins are both wholesome and nourishing. They increase the nu tritive value of the bread and help It to keep moist longer: Whole wheat raisin bread Sift three and a half cups of whole wheat flour or two cups graham and one and a half white flour with one teaspoon salt and three and a half teaspoons baking pow der. Work in two tablespoons Crisco, and one-fourth cup sugar, one well beaten egg mixed with one cup milk, one cup seeded raisins cut in halves and dredged with flour. Cut and fold mixture, adding more milk if needed to make soft dough that may be easily molded into a loaf. Put in oblong' bread pan, cover with oiled paper, let rise 20 minutes and bake in moderate oven about one hour. Corn meal raisin bread No. 1 Sift together one and one-fourth cups flour, three-fourths cup corn meal, scant ta blespoon sugar, one-half teaspoon salt and two tablespoons baking powder. Add two tablespoons melted butter, one and one-fourth cups milk, one egg well beaten and one-half cup seeded raisins cut in small pieces. Bake in thin lay ers in hot oven. Steamed raisin bread Sift together one cup each of corn meal, rye meal and graham flour, one teaspoon salt and one and one-half teaspoons soda Add three-fourths cup molasses, two thirds cup seeded raisins cut small and two cups thick sour milk. Beat well and turn Into one pound or half-pound baking powder cans. Steam one to two hours, according to size of cans used. i i n n v,.AaH Annie two- UHLUlCftl lisa " thirda cup. chopped raisins in two cups cold water for one ' hour. Then let come to boiling point and pour over , nnt. fver and let Stand one hour. Add one tablespoon butter. one ana one-nan leaapuuua !.. m . i i nnA.hotf cake lourill cup 1M U V U nuui , vuw - - compressed yeast dissolved in one-half cup water. 5eat ana aaa iwur half cups flour. L.et rise in the bowl until very light, then beat again and turn into greased bread pan. When lignt DaKe'aooui one anui. a i ...n., .A milra white j. Biuijjc, cna; maj .v raisin bread is to reserve some dough i rom ordinary HrpBmiiHRiu. It as many raisins as your taste and purse may determine, with or without a little sugar, shape and let it rise in the usual way before baking. Raisin roll loaf may be similarly made from ordinary bread dough. ready for shaping. Pat or roll out tne dough about three-fourths of an Inch thick and sprinkle with raisins and sugar, adding a little cinnamon or grated, lemon rind if liked. Roll it up like a jelly roll and place in a ring in a tube cake tin or an ordinary brick loaf pan. as preferred. . Brush with I 1 1. 1 n. i . V. . . cm Tkt rise to double, bulk before baking. If you want It ricner wont a nine cu shortening into the dough and let rise before adding the raisins, or add a few "dots" of butter with the raisins. i - ii tm n j l . v. l..tl.p n-i a Ira peui&iiy ii. uiciuts i ii" imk ... a good "carry lunch" In place of meat sanawicnes. LACES GIVE BRILLIANT EFFECT TO NEW GOWNS THIS SEASON Fabrics Imparting Diamond Metal Luster Much Used and Neta Make Latest Fashion Creations of Remarkable Deljcacy. PERHAPS the most'brilliant even ing gowns that the 20th century will set are In vogue at this mo ment. At any rate, it Is impossible to imagine evening gowns of greater bril liancy than those now in fashion. Only frocks sewn with diamonds themselves could glitter more splendidly than this Winter's dancing costumes and, well, one can scarcely believe-that diamond encrusted gowns will become the uni versal mode yet awhile. It is a metal lace gives the brilliant effect metal lace and spanglee. A Jet spangled black gown Is the next most brilliant thing' in the costume line, to one flounced with silver or lace or stomachered with crystal paillettes and beads; and black gowns gleaming with Jet trimming are very fashionable this season of brilliant evening costume. The metal lacts come in all widths and in many qualities, but even the least of them is expensive. A .few years ago the fashion began with the lovely llama laces introduced by Paris but used only occasionally to give brightness to dance frocks. The craze for scintillating lace grew and grew and now no evening gown may deem itself completely mod ish unless it has at least a modicum of sliver or gold lace somewhere in its make-up. Soft Silks Draped Above Lace. Sometimes the metal lace appears only In the petticoat in gleaming flounces overdraped with metal bro cade or flower-tinted soiree silk; again, the whole costume may be a-gllmmffr with luminous light, the light thrown out by countless threads of silver or gold run In intricate patterns in finely meshed net. There are tulle "dance frocks over petticoatts gleaming with metal lace: there are even camisoles designed for evening wear and made of metal lace with shoulder straps of pearl beads. Some of the couturiers combine gold and silver with gorgeous effect. Beer, in particular, is fond of sumptuous col ors and gleaming trimmings, and Cal-lot-Soeurs have produced eome wonder ful evening gowns, almost dazzling in color and brilliance. A new Beer dance frock has a pleated skirt of eld blue soiree silk with a twin train of the silk dragging at either side toward the back. Short aprons of ohiffon bordered with gold and silver-threaded lace fall at the back and front of the skirt, and these aprons, like the bodice, are" of paler blue chiffon over rose-colored chiffon. The girdle is of gold and silver lace and bands of the lace with turquoise beads placed at Intervals form narrow shoulder straps. Bermirtt'a Achievement Brilliant. One of the most wonderful evening gowns sent over from Paris this season is by Bernard. It has not only one, but several glittering fabrics, yet its lines are so simple that it has been called the Madonna gown, and it its supposed to be early Italian style. It is made of metal gauze in blue and silver weave over green chiffon and below the hips there is a band of sliver embroidered net supporting a flounce of metal lace. The wide girdle, below the waistline, is of jet beads, and a heavy Jet rope neck lace, caught to the edges of the bodice, forms shoulder straps and then drops In a long loop to the waistline not so long a loop, after all, for In the modern evening gown there is not great dis tance between edge of decolletage and walsline! It seems a dreadful extravagance to make a train out of silver lace, but more than one evening gown shows this fine contempt for economy. A dance frock from Jenny is of cyclamen tulle (and, by the bye, cyclamen Is the new shade of shades for the dance frock!) with a draped tunic of cycla men faille matinee silk above the tulle flounces. Each flounce is edged with silver galloon and there is an odd train of sliver lace which may be removed entirely from the frock when its wearer desires. The train does not start from the waistline, but from a tucked-under drapery of the silk tunic, and broad sash ends of silver lace, rdnning from the waistline down either side of the back and turning under with the drapery of the tunic, appear to sup port the train. With sash-ends and' train removed the costume Is a short. dainty dance frock of cyclamen tulle and silk with silver galloon trimming. Dance frocks of silk and there are many this year have at least sleeves of the fashionable silver lace. When a dance frock has any sleeves at all they are transparent ones and there la a new sleeve called the Grecian sleeve which is kind to the arm that is not perfect, with Its half-revealing, half concealing fall of filmy drapery. Most lovely Is a dance frock of rose-colored soiree silk embroidered across the bod Ice and on the upper part of the skirt with gold thread, and having Grecian sleeves of gold-thread lace. Couturiers are particular about sewing silver lace and gold lace with silk of the proper shade, and another shade is used for the seams of the silk part of the cos tume. A much lighter, more delicate effect Is given to such a frock by the use of silk thread In seams and details, and no woman of fastidious habit cares to wear a cheaply put together costume, however beautiful its lines or Its color. One should be particularly critical about this matter of seaming and sewing in gray frocks, of which there are so many this season. The shades of gray are innumerable and If a gray used with another gray Is even a bit off color the effect is most un pleasant. Only silk thread comes In all the shades of gray that fashion en dorses, and gray frocks sewed with substitutes for silk thread too often show the cheap makeshift with painful effect. And speaking of gray frocks, one must not forget to mention Lan vln's lovely gray dance frocks this season; most exquisite little frocks made, of gray tulle and gray net em broidered with sliver threads. Gold and Black; IaMO Uaed. One sees little white lace on evening gowns It is all metal lace! But a deal of black lace is used in combina tion with black tulle, black velvet and gold lace. Black lace and black span gled net make another modish combi nation. Indeed jet is the only gleaming trimming permitted to share the field with the luminous silver and gold laces; even Iridescent paillettes are not now as fashionable as the more airy metal laces and nets. There Is a new spangled net Just ap pearing In Paris, called canard. Its color Is bluish green which gives out a wonderful luster and brilliance by candlelight. With silver lace it is suggestive of shadowy woodglades lit by glimmer of moonlight. Barrel Skirt Is Latest Spring: Style From Paris. Circular June Tonneau Is Hard to Acta it vr L raped Effect, However, Is Easier and Graceful. EVERBODY Is going to have a barrel skirt this Spring, najr that the style has been established In Paris, and new arrivals In barrel effects are coming over weekly. . It will take a very clever home-dressmaker to achieve a pleated jupe tonneau, as the barrel skirt Is called by the couturiers, for the pleats must manage to fall straight at front and back and bulge decidedly at the sides. The circular Jupe tonneau, cut in two circular flounces and sewed together along the wide edges of the flounce sections, so that .here is an extremely bulging effect at the center of the skirt,. is even harder to achieve. One may obtain the bulging center sue cesRfully, but the "hang" at the ankle will baffle any but expert skill. A draped barrel skirt, however, is easy enough to concoct, and this type of drapery Is really graceful. A good example is furnished in a tailored frock LEATHER BELT IS MODISH AFTER SEASON OF STITCHED-ON EFFECT Smartness Is Increased With "Width and Patent Leather la Most Fashion able of All NaturaT Lines Maintained. Answers to Correspondents PORTLAND.' Or., Jan. 6. Would you kindly give recipe for light graham gema made with baking powder or sour milk? Thanking you. MRS. C. I TRT the following: " -" Graham gems with egg One cup graham flour, one cup white flour, three teaspoons baking pdwder, one-half teaspoon salt, one-fourth cup sugar, three or four tablespoons melt ed shortening, one egg, beaten light, three-fourths to one. cup sweet milk. Sift the dry ingredients, mix to a "drop batter" with the egg and milk. Beat in the melted shortening. Put Into hissing hot, well-greased muffin pans. Bake about 25 minutes. The exact amount of milk will vary a little with the kind of flour used. If sour milk Is used, omit the bak ing powder and use one scant level teaspoon soda and substitute - one fourth cup molasses for the sugar. Or If the molasses flavor , is not liked, use one teaspoon cream of tartar with the soda and' sour milk. A few seedless raisins may be added for variety and for additional flavor and nutriment. . . Wasco, Or., Jan. 7.' Here I come again for sumo more information. I would like to getTa recipe that would tell how to pre pare piga feet in the best manner on the same plan and style as they do at the slaughter-houses. If you can give me the above Information you can send it direct to me or perhaps you may wish to publish it for the benefit of your subscribers. If so, send me card so 1 may know when to look for it. Thanking you In advance for the above Information. In casyou cannot give me the above information can you tell me where I might be able to get a recipe to preserve pigs feet? H. R. I do not know if the following Is the way used at the slaughter-houses, but it is satisfactory for domestic use: Pickled pigs' feet Scald and scrape the feet. Spit them, cover with luke warm water, bring quickly to boiling point, then simmer very slowly until thebones can be removed. Take out the bones, then set the feet in a deep pan and sprinkle with salt. Remove all fat from the liquid. Take one quart of the cleared liquid and one quart good vinegar, boil 10 minutes with one teaspoon cloves and pour boiling hot over the feet. Cover the jar closely. The feet may be eaten cold from the pickle or wiped dry, dipped in . flour or egg and crumbs and fried in deep fat or dipped in melted butter and crumbs and broiled. It will take about three hours to cook the -feet tender. Slow simmering Is most Important. . , 'The following recipes for raisin bread are given in response to a re- Vvvy JntEzzssj? I PATEXT LEATHER BELTS IX VOGUE AGAIJT. AFTER a season or so of stitched on belts of the skirt material, leather belts are back In fashion and the patent leather belt is most fashionable of all. The wider such a belt Is, the smarter the effect, and the belt is worn rather loose, so that a natural figure line ts maintained and not a drawn-in effect. One smart new belt for sport wear is made of patent leather with stitched strappings of white leather. At the back is . an ornament of black and white leather; at the front, ' a large buckle of the patent leather. ETa ki r, a R L WONDEROFT tts) ) Woks Wonders 1 i.HtT 2 te-Ja-riS . iif . lifted int. normal M?&0S$2 -W. O Swsr bsek tU,KS t. I$Mif (rxfl..r,lilum. fTt vests iittuu is: pro- W9$c!ffS easts deep breathing and 'yWStA Wonderlift Corsets are not "something like," nor a mere "improvement." They represent an Original, Distinctive Patented Invention Rendering an Invaluable Service Wholly New The Wonderlift Bandlet copies Nature. It does the work !of tired, relaxed abdominal muscles in Nature's way. It is elastic, and f ully adjustable. By restoring fallen organs and ligaments to healthful position, the Bandlet re-establishes natural symmetry and produces the best style-effect possible to the individual figure. By relieving strain on nerves and muscles, it tones up the whole system; brings back youthful vigor and good looks. There are eight distinct Wonderlift models for every type of figure, from bony to super-stout S5.00. $7.50, $10 and $12 A very large number of women probably a majority if once properly fitted in the right Won derlift will never be persuaded to wear any other. BE A WISE WOMAN INVESTIGATE! CotU Stmrm Eomryttihmrm H Hyrfaait-Fsalues Iastirsta. Haw Trk Or of putty-colored gabardine which has delightfully simple lines and a very pretty drapery in the skirt. This -drapery is made of two sections of the material, seamed at 'the sides and at tached to a plain, gored skirt about four Inches below the belt line. The two sections measure, up and down, about 36 Inches; across, about the width of the material, and each section is sloped in toward the bottom, at the side seams. With the under skirt on the figure, two sections are pleated at the top, a box pleat in the center and two side pleats at either side, and the pleats are attached straight across ' the underskirt, four Inches below the belt at front and back, leaving the hips undraped. The material at either side after the pleating is made will fall loosely in long loop-drapery. The yoke and hip portions of the underskirt will show when the pleated drapery Is in place. but all the rest of the skirt will be covered. This underskirt is cut a little short, and finally the edge of the drapery is caught up underneath and gathered to it. giving the finished skirt the new bloomer edire. n In the model of putty-colored gabar dine Just referred te the underskirt showed small plntucks running up and down the yoke and hip portions; the part of the skirt that was hidden was of taffeta silk, making the gown much lighter and daintier. And the pintucka, the pleats at back and front for a few inches, and all the seams were care fully stitched In silk matching the gabardine exactly, a mark of the ex clusive model, for only mediocre tai lored wear is sewed with cheap substi tutes for silk. Efficiency of Lightning. The Continent. Enos Mills, conversationist and au thor of many well-known books on Western America tells a story of how a pioneer settled an old discussion. "One day in the mountains of Mon tana I took refuge with a pioneer. It was a rainy day. At last the storm was breaking, but the lightning frequently struck here or there. We were stand ing in the open door of his house when suddenly the lightning struck a tree nearby. So terrific was the bolt that the tree appeared to have been sud denly dynamited. "That brought to my mind an old discussion of why lightning never strikes twice In the same place. So I turned to this old pioneer and asked, 'Why is it. Jerry, that lightning never strikes twice -in the same place?" " 'Gosh, It don t need to! was the prompt reply.". Stern. Doty. The following story of the late Dr. Timothy Dwlght appeared recently In the dally press. In his early days, when he was a tutor in charge of stu dent discipline at Yale a sort of proc tor, apparently he was called out of long legs he soon found himself gain ing rapidly upon them. Thereupon a solemn voice rang out suddenly in the night: "Gentlemen, If you don t run a little faster, I shall be obliged to overtake you!" Youth's Companion. SEVERE CASE OF ' ECZEMA OH LITTLE GIRL'S SCALP Large BlisterrTAppeared. Hair Fell Out in Handfuls. Cuticura Completely Healed. "My little girl, two years old, devel oped a severe case ot eczema; large blisters appearing on her scalp, a dozen at least in number. 1 nese broke causing rough, red, scaly blisters the size of a dime, from which the hair fell out in handfuls. She was feverish and constantly irritated the eruption with her nails. Her rest was v broken and she was al ways cross, and the breaking out also spread over her face and neck. "The case was three months standing when I sent for a free sample of Cuti cura Soap and Ointment. From the firtt she began to get better so I bought more and two bars of Cuticura Soap and one box of Ointment completely healed her." (Signed) Mrs. C. W. Andrews, Bowie. Ariz., July 24. 1916. dear the pores of impurities by daily nse of Cuticura ' Soap and occasional touches of Cuticura Ointment. For Free Sample Each by Return Mail address post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." Sold everywhere. This Frees Your Skin From Hair or Fuzz v - - (Toilet Tips) The method here suggested for the removal - of superfluous hair Is quick and certain and unless the growth is extremely stubborn, a single applica tion ddes the work. Make a stiff paste with some powdered delatone and wa ter; apply this to the hairy surface and after about 2 minutes rub it off. his room by some midnight escapade. 1 wash the skin and the hairs are gone. He was obliged as a matter or duty to To avoid disappointment, be sure your pursue the disturbers, and .with his J druggist sells you delatone. Adv.