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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 11, 1917)
TITC SUNDAY OREGOXTAX, PORTLAND, FEBRTTARY 11, ,1917. STUNNING BLACK EVENING GOWN BY WORTFL IS OF SOFT SOIREE SILK WITH LACE AND JET Grecian Lines and Skillful Cut Are Features Glint and Gleam of Metal Laces Are Found in Boudoir Negligee. Lovely Morning Mantle Is of Chiffon and Silver Lace. Cl! - U.X5' XT II 5 y r ;x'vw " f I ll ' J iJ& i&ir i&'yx' "'a. 'rfl I . ' V 4 1 , , -i. f ' bS 'Hill 31 - iX ,1 - 4 -I J I WORTH lias been turning out some stunning: black evening; gowns this season and' one or them is a masterpiece of line, with soft black soiree silk heavily weighted by jetted lace and ropes of jet- The bodice, made of a straight strip of Ten Ice point, is supported by strings of jet over the shoulders and there is no attempt at defining the curve of the waistline. Like many of the Worth models, this has long, clinging Grecian lines, lake all Worth models, it is exquisitely jnade, a skillful cut producing the fine lines with least possible sewing, and that sewing of course done with silk thread to the last detail. Because of the wonderful lines and the exquisite finish of Worth costumes, this coutu rier is popular with women of high distinction. The glint and gleam of metal laces are found in boudoir as well as in ball room. . A lovely morning mantle of chiffon and silver lace trails downward toward the back, reaching quite to the hem of the tucked chiffon skirt. The negligee falls in straight lines from tha shoulder, but a knotted gir dle of silver cord draws in the soft chiffon slip at the waistline, giving slight definition to - the figure; and above the lace mantle flows loosely from the shoulder to ankle at the back. With such a negligee milady abjures her smart buttoned walking boot and dons pretty mules of silver cloth. Figured satin is a feature of this Summer's styles in waists. This dainty blouse of Paisley figured satin com bined with white Georgette is just the right weight and cut to make it a prime favorite for Summer wear, es pecially while walking on the board walk. The skirt is of Khaki-Kool. with broad stripes of colored plaid. Novel shirred pockets add to the attractive ness and are quite convenient for the outdoor girl who is summering at one of the resorts and who does not care to be encumbertd with the conven tional bag. ApcnoNBRiDG& j4aMlaatcz Shelby. HAVING discussed at greater or less length second hand play as ap plying chiefly to the eldest hand, though in some instances applying to both adversaries, I will now take up briefly a few cases which apply exclu sively to the player sitting at dummy's left, otherwise known as pone. In this position we reckon as se quence cards not simply the cards in "fquence held by us, but such-in dum my's hand as form a sequence with ours, and play accordingly. For in stance: We hold ace, queen, etc., of a suit to which dummy, holding king, leads low. As our ace, queen are in sequence with dummy's king, we play queen. So, also, to low card lead from dummy of a suit of which he holds queen, we, with king, jack, etc., play jack, the lowest of the sequence. At a declared trump we play king from king and others . when dummy leads with a low card, holding the ace. More than ever should we observe this play if both our bands are long in the suit and there is a good chance it will not go a second round. The same prin ciple applies when we hold queen and others of a suit to which dummy with both ace and king, leads Mow. At no trumps unless our own or partner's suit be established, it is generally well to hold up the queen, so long as it Is safe. If we hold two cards only of the suit led, one an honor (not the ace), we generally play low, save when we knowthe higher card will win. as when we hold king and one other andi dummy the ace. While we should usually cover an honor with a higher honor (not, the ace), when once or twice quarded only, it is useless to do so at & no trump dec laration when dummy leads queen from efeen. jack, ten, etc In such case it is better rather to hold off in the hope the declarer has ace and one other only of the suit, in which event our king will be in command for the third round. When we are longer than dummy in the suit he leads, holding off often gives us an added trick, as the declarer has eventually to lead up to. rather than through, us. Therefore, when we hold king and two low of the suit to which dummy leads a singleton queen, jack. or ten, or when we hold king and three low, of a suit to which he leads queen, Jack, or ten, holding two cards only of the suit, it is better to hold off the king, and retain the control. In neither case can dummy lead through a suffi cient number of times to capture our king. Third Hand Play by the Xdveraarln. The old rules "second hand low," and "third hand high," which obtained In whist, but which even in whist were subject to more or less important mod ifications, especially after the advent of "American leads," in bridge and auc tion are practically dead letter laws. This is not saying that there are not cases where the rules should be strictly observed, but to imagine that the play either of second or third hand can be summarily dismissed by the formula of so simple and primitive a rule, one the observance of which calls for no skill and .is utterly void of the finer and more scientific features of play, is not only erroneous but to the skilled player too absurd to admit of discussion. The exposed hand In auction natural ly has an important bearing upon the play of the adversaries throughout. whatever position they may occupy with regard to this hand that Is, whether they be leaders, second or third hand player. Third hand play to the lead of a small card is subject to a two-fold consid eration: The desire, first, to take the trick: failing this, to force a higher adverse card and thus work to the earlier promotion of the remaining cards of the suit in our own or our partner's hand. Therefore, to the lead of a small card, as third player, we play the highest card of the suit we hold, unless such card is lower than the card led, or-the one played: by second player, or unless our highest card is in sequence with one or more other cards, when, in the first two cases, we play the lowest card we hold: in the other, the lowest pf the sequence. It is perhaps needless to state that this rule applies in its entirety to third hand when he plays after the dummy. When we play before the dummy we play simply such card as will hold the trick, or, failing this, compel as high a card as possible from the dummy. That is to say, from a holding of king, ten, etc., the play of king rather than ten, if dummy holds nothing higher than ten, would be puerile and a willful waste of strength. So, also, would be the play of our highest card, the declarer not having so played as to compel it, when dummy Is void of the suit led. As has been explained under second hand, when we sit at dummy's left, we Include as sequence cards all such cards in dummy's hand as form -a se quence with those held by us. and play accordingly. To the lead, therefore, of a low card of a suit of which dummy, holding Jack, etc., plays low, we, with queen, ten, nine, play nine. Dummy's Jack being in sequence with our queen, ten and nine, the nine will hold the trick or compel the king or ace. The play of the lowest of cards in se quence should be faithfully observed, as it is one of the most fruitful means of conveying inferences, the one part ner to the other. In other words, it is one of their surest means of defense against the declarer who has the ad vantage not only of knowing but of playing his partner's hand. In .view of its manifold advantages it is surpris ing how few, comparatively, even among players who are rated as above the average, observe the play, or are apparently conscious of its value. It is a lamentable fact that the greater number of players play their own hand alone, quite regardless of, or oblivious to. the fact that they have a partner who Is as much interested in the ven ture and its successful outcome as themselves. Instead of by the use of certain conventional methods enabling the partner to infer as to their holding and thus make the game as simple as possible for him, at the same time that it enables him to work for the best combined interests, their aim rather seems to be to make it as difficult as possible to keep him guessing. Even where it seems important to deceive the declarer, it should never be resort ed to at the risk of deceiving the part ner. This cannot be too strongly em phasized. Take the following. Illustrative of the value of the play of the lowest of cards in sequence: We lead a low card; dummy plays low; third hand (our partner) holding queen, jack, etc.. Plays Jack, the lowest of the two se quence cards; declarer wins with ace. We can infer to a certainty that queen is with our partner, otherwise declarer would have taken jack with queen. Ace. ten. being with us, we therefore know that our suit is established. An other low card from us brings down our partner's queen, we recover the lead with the ten. and if it be a no-trump declaration, bring In the suit. Had partner, on the contrary, played queen rather than jack to the first round we would naturally assume the Jack to be with the declarer. While in this particular instance the true situation would sooner or later reveal itself, and save under unusual con ditions, our suit doubtless would even tually be brought in, we would never theless have had wrong Inferences and, pefhaps worst of all, have lost confi dence in our partner and his ability to play in harmony with us and thus make the most of the combined hands. Third player should take no finesse in his partner's suit, but religiously play his highest card (second player not having played a higher one than he holds) and return the next highest, leaving finesse to the partner. In other words, we should take no liberties in our partner's suit. but. on the contrary aid him to the best of our ability In his efforts at establishment. Take the fol lowing: Partner leads a small card; second plays low; we, with ace, queen, etc.. or king. Jack, etc., in each case play the card heading the suit. To be sure, should the intermediate card In either case appear with dummy. We play the lower of the two high cards, in conformity with the principle al ready explained of playing the lowest of a sequence. Such play would not be a finesse. Finesse is the effort to take a trick with a card lower than our highest and not in sequence with it. A play, there fore, constitutes a finesse only when the location of a card or cards inter mediate between the one played and one or more higher ones held by us, is unknown. Note the distinction. When partner's lead is a strengthen ing card we may use our judgment in regard to finesse, basing our play to a greater or less degree upon what dummy holds of the suit, what we hold, and our certain knowledge of the higher cards of the suit, held by the declarer. Especially at no trumps, and more than ever when the lead is to our long suit, whicti has been indicated by a bid or perhaps a discard, it is usually best to pass the card and force a higher one from the declarer. Particu- GROUP PORTRAITS OF WOMEN WHO HAVE v WON PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN NEWS New York Society Woman Active in War Relief Work Texas Congressman's Daughter Is Washington Beauty. Lady Paget Devotes Time to Nursing Wounded Soldiers in England. W 4-i A I- . "- V i t ; t xi - I - l . v " ' jN 1 L;;v V ' i -A i ' I? & 3 v - ' ' "4 V ' I V hi' l , -x-; i V I y . - s$ .V x JCl I V' sT'( 1 MRS. ADRIAN ISELIN Is, a well known society woman of New York and Paris. She is deeply Interested Just now in charities con nected with the war. Before her mar riage she was Madeleine IVEngle. m m m Mrs. Gordon Knox Bell is one of the prettiest and most hospitable of the hostesses of New York society on the fashionable East Side. he has a love ly home, where she entertains fre quently. he was Marian Crafts be fore her marriage. Mildred Hardy is the pretty daughter of Representative Kufus Hardy, of Texas. They have a beautiful home in fashionable Sixteenth street, Washing ton. Miss Lucille Miller, who Is reputed to be the most beautiful girl In Mon tana, is wintering at Palm Beach. So ciety folks from all over the United States are gathering at Palm Beach, and one of the gayest seasons is ex pected. Ethel Harriman is the debutante daughter of Mr. J. Borden Harriman, well known In New York and Newport. . Lady Victor Paget is giving her whole time to the care of the wounded In England. She a member by mar- 5 ..... m s : . " .J riage of the family which has so many connections in this country and is a conspicuous figure in London society. larly should we do this if he holds a card or cards as must win in any event. A strengthening card is a card of high or medium value, as king, queen, jack, ten or nine, led in the hope of strengthening one's partner's hand; that is, of forcing higher adverse cards, and thus working to the establishment of the suit in the partner's hand. A strengthening lead may be made at any stage of the game. It is perhaps often- est made, however, by the eldest hand when, having no particularly good t-uit of his own, or perhaps because he wishes -his suit to be led through, ue leads the highest card he holds of the suit his partner has indicated by his bid. Unblocking tactics, which constitute one of tho most fascinating, as well as important features of third hand play, will be taken up next Sunday. PRETTY NIGHTINGALE USEFUL WHEN BREAKFASTING IN BED Dainty Little, All-Wool Sacque Slips on Easily, and Protects Arms and Shoulders From Cold Directions for Pattern Are Given. ................. ......................... .......... J imwK.iiiim n.m im.ji.mj umi.i. n i i ui iirnui immni u unoiiwui m wuw muii niiiimimmiw n.'i t i t v. .. .'..a. rmiia '' """""" '""" - "Him m it-v-aa n.- , f -jrtw wjj-t n 'jt, -.?. ... j ,,""'KVi i : . M h ' x :', .... ;.'::VCit Ai5-:--. -r r-.'. fT . V ' 4 t ' -k: ' Ki&f t Sr : , : h DAINTY BED 8ACUUE . TRIMMED WITH CROCHET. FOR breakfast In bed on Winter mornings nothing is so convenient or so pretty as a nightingale made of -'. light, all-wool fabric The little sacque .slips on easily and protects arms and shoulders; one does not have to climb out of bed to adjust it com fortably as .one would a longer dress-ing-sacque or kimono. The picture shows the shape of the nightingale very clearly. The material is doubled over, the fold coming at the shoulder line, and front and back are exactly alike, except that at the front, the neck Is rounded out a little and the fabric Is slashed from neck to edge to make the front opening. Cut the pattern first from a newspaper. If you are not an expert at "cutting by eye." The ends of the sleeves will come at the selvedge of the material and the V-shaped slash which divides the sleeve from the sacque Is two-thirds of the distance from center to selvedge. This sacque. or nightingale, is made of white cashmere with a crocheted scallop done with pink silk for edge- trimming. The cuffs and the collar and revers are separate pieces, also edged with crochet work and they add to the warmth of the sacaue. The sleeves and sacque are tied to gether at t te points with narrow pink ribbon, but a few stitches catch the material together at the point of the V between sleeve and sacque. These may De put in with pink sewing silk. Tortoise Shell in Favor. Now that tortoise shell has once more come. Into public favor it is well to know a way in which to clean and polish it. When tortoise shell loses its li'Ster from wear the polished surface may be restored to its original condi tion by carefully rubbing it with pow dered rottenstone and oil. The rotten stone should be very carefully sifted through the finest muslin. When all scratches on the surface of the tor toise .shell are thus removed a brilliant polish may be given it by applying friction with a piece of soft leather to which some Jewelers' rouge has been applied. Texas Grew Under Six Flags. New York Telegram. Six flags have floated over Texas, including the banners of three foreign powers France. Spain and Mexico. First came the French flag, which was carried down the Mississippi River to the Gulf of Mexico by the intrepid La Salle; following thi3 was the Spanish emblem, first thrown to the breeze un der the direction of the Franciscan priests; then came in succession the American flag and the Lone Star em blem of the Republic of Texas. The Stars and Stripes followed the Lone Star, but was supplanted for a time by the stars and bars of the Confed eracy. In the struggle for ascen dancy among these various groups much blood has been spilled and count less tragedies have taken their places on the pages of history. The history of the Republic of Texas Is one of the most unique examples of national sovereignty that the world has ever seen. A province of 30.000 peo ple won independence from a Nation of several millions. But these 30,000 were generally men of sturdy Anglo American stock. A few years later these same fearless and independent Texans voluntarily gave up their sov ereignty to become one of the galaxy of stars under the banner of the United States. The Railroad Station. Just a very common thing Shouts and whistles, bells that ring-. Just a platform in the rain And a slowly-moving train: Just a woman dresaod In black Standing by a station hack. Gazing with her eyes profound s As the train goes outward bound; And her bearing does not say Who It was that goes away. One who made her pulses stir. Or a guest who wearied her. Alice jDuer Miller, in the New Republlo. Touches of Embroidery Given. Touches of embroidery or soutache are used to relieve the severity of walking suits. Knocks Obstinate Coughs in a Hurry A. Slzaple Home Made Res that Gets at the Cause. Thousands of people normally healthV in every other respect, are annoyed with; a persistent hanginfr-on bronchial cougli year after year, disturbing their sleep and making life disagreeable. It's to needless there's an old home-made remedy that will end such a couh. easily and quickly. Get from any drucrsrist "2 ounces al Pinex" ( 50 cents worth ) , pour it into a pint bottle and fill the bottle with plain granulated gucrar syrup. Begin takiajr it at once. Gradually but surely you will notice the phlegm thin out and then disappear altogether, thus ending a cough that you never thought would end. It also promptly loosens a dry or tight cough, stops the troublesome throat tickle, soothes the irritated membrane that line the throat and bronchial tubas, and relief comes almost immediately. A day's use will usually break up an or dinary throat or chest cold, and for bronchitis, croup, whooping cough and bronchial asthma there is nothiag better. It tastes pleasant and keeps perfectly. Pinex is a most valuable concentrartetl compound of genuine JS'orway pine ex tract, combined with guaiacol and is used by millions of people every year for throat and chest colds with, splendid results. To avoid disappointment, ask your druggist for "2 ounces of Pinex" with full directions and don't accept anything else. A guarantee of absolute satisfac tion or monev promptly refunded poet with this preparation. 3The Pinex Co Ft. Wayne, Ind.