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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 4, 1917)
TILE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 4, ".'1917. BLACK WILL BE FASHIONABLE IN SMART . FROCKS FOR AFTERNOON WEAR THIS SEASON Model in Satin and Georgette Shows Directoire Silhouette That Is Coming In, and Disposition of Black Satin Over Underdress of Pleated Georgette Is Exceedingly Effective Short Sleeves Are Indicated. i ; V- T m' ' - rl I K ; f . - V f . - ' M III 1 L - '' - - -" "s r " i I 1 - ' ' - i f.ss2SSs - i 1 ? ! ' s"; I II ill v s- i I - " - ' I r"Zf til - - '3 ! - w' i m li fils It h - 1 1 ; - - ;'S . , 1 K x T -' ' - 5 enr' - vV r I 7 W iKtJ.V A 1 I - . 1 I " r ,-s ? ! - J - i - ' it i r - t i'' i?1 f r? r -trV - . i -H : - . $ U THE woman who finds black becom ing and desirable will be glad to know that black will be fashion able in smart little frocks for afternoon wear this season. A model In satin and georgette shows the directoire silhou ette that is coming in.jand the disposi tion of the black satin over an under dress of pleated georgette is exceeding ly effective. A narrow collar of white washable satin and white topped button boots add just the desirable touch' 6f contrast, and the black hat of straw, lace and tulle, with velvet underbrlm. has one white gardenia effectively posed. A bujton-ln-back frock obviously new and chic Is of tan georgette and oft soiree silk in a golden brown shade combined, the soiree Bilk forming a deep flounce on the skirt and graceful aide panels that run up above the belt line. Bands of embroidery In shades of tan and brown add their distinctive trimming note and one must not over look the new' flowing sleeve an augur, some say, of shorter sleeves on dressy frocks. Boots in brown and tan tone with the new fabric buttoned tops ac company the frock. A type of the fashionable "sport" frock Is made of tussah in light tan shade, and with a fascinating apron front that laps across the skirt in but toned tabs and is lapped across in turn by straps of king's blue tussah, which latter forms, also, an effective band trimming on skirt, collar and gathered undersleeve. Another indication here, eay those, who know, that shorter sleeves are on the way. The typical sport hat is of king's blue straw with crown and bow, of taffeta silk, and, properly, white buttoned boots accom pany this dainty frock for the country dub. J A Fertile Topic From the Brooklyn Eagle. Perhaps some future Gibbon will Iwrlte "The History of the Rise and Fall f the Zeppelin." ApcnoBrnDGrR BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHE LB IT. TAKING up conventional play where I left it some weeks since to dis cuss the newly issued laws of 1917, I will treat today of second-hand play, considering it first from the standpoint of the adversary!. Second-hand play by the adversary is not only influenced in a greater or less degree by the nature of the declaration whether "no trumps" or a suit rbut by the position we occupy with regard to dummy, that is, whether we be on dummy's right or left. "We will con sider first when we sit at dummy's right. In this position we are told to "beat the dummy" if we can. This should not be observed too literally, however, or at the expenditure of too great strength when dummy's cards are low. It applies chiefly to cases like the following: Dummy holds perhaps guarded queen of the suit to which the declarer leads low. We hold guarded king. Especially at a trump declara tion, when usually the guiding motive of our play is to take all the tricks in sight, the play of the king is ob vious. This play should also be ob served at no trumps, queen being with dummy, if we hold king and one other card only of the suit. Cases will at times arise, however, where to "beat the dummy" would be unwise, though it is evident otherwise he will win the trick. For instance: We hold ace, jack, . etc., and dummy guarded king of a suit to which the de clarer leads small. The play of a low card will leave us with a direct tenace oer the declarer and generally result In our winning two tricks in the suit rather than one-. This applies especially of course to a no-trump declaration. At a. trump it is often better that we at once play the ace because of the in evitable danger that It may be trumped on the second round. This risk is espe cially great if we hold length as well 'as high card strength in the suit. If the dummy holds a major tenace xco, queen.), eta. over our minor ten ace (king, jack), etc.. we play low with the holding reversed, ace. How ever, with a high-card sequence, as king, queen, etc., in our hand as against ace, jack, etc., in the dummy, we play queen, the lower of the sequence cards. This to prevent the declarer success fully finessing the jack. The following cover general cases where a high rather than a low card should be played second in hand. Ex cept where stipulated, they apply equally perhaps whether we sit at dummy's right or left. . At a trump cover an honor led from strength with ace. At times also cover a small card led with ace. This when for some reason or another it seems desirable at once to get the lead. At "no trumps" hold up the ace even on honor led, and when it is known the trick otherwise will go adversely. (Exception: When there is an estab lished suit in our own or partner's hand, and. the latter being the case, we can give him the lead; or when we see enough tricks in sight to defeat the contract.) Aside from these -cases the ace as a rule should be kept back until it is likely the partner of the player who is long in the suit has no more cards left of the suit. This will make the 'bringing In of the suit de pendent upon the holder thereof having ing some other re-entry. -This rule applies with particular force "When the suit the declarer is trying to establish is held by dummy and he Is otherwise shy of re-entries. Though the rule should be observed as well with regard to the declarer's long suit, it is not generally so effective, as he, being, the maker of the no trump, is supposedly more or less fortified with re-entries. Cover an honor with an honor lower than ace if not more than twice guard ed though it is evident an honor higher still, perhaps the ace, is held adverse ly. This compels two adverse high cards to the one trick, and in conse quence often raises to command a card of the suit held by our partner which otherwise would be valueless. Cover a, nine or higher card when holding a fourchette (a card higher and a card lower than the one led.) The motive of the play as in the case just explained is to hold the trick, or to force a higher adverse card, and thus defeat the cbject of the lead. Fre quently also by forcing' two adverse high cards to the one trick it raises to command a card in our own or part ner's hand which would otherwise fall adversely. To illustrate: Jack is led. We hold queen, ten and one Bmall; dummy, ace, .king, and three small; partner, two small. Our play is to cover Jack' with queen. This compels the king,- ace is led to the second round, and we are in command with queen for the third. To the lead of jack, had we played small, jack would doubt less have been finessed, king would have won the second round, ace the third (our queen falling to this round) and the suit in dummy's hand would have been established. The cover from' a fourchette possesses .the additional advantage that it in no wise endangers the winning of a trick in our hand, but on the contrary, as in the case just cited, often promotes it. Cover the card led when inferences from the "eleven rule" show that we hold all the cards of the suit higher than the one led not held by the leader, playing the lowest of these cards. The card so ;played, barring a trump, will hold the trick. (The "eleven rule" will be explained in a later issue.) Cover the card led when holding two or more high cards in sequence, play ing the lowest of the sequence. To be sure if. playing before the dummy, we see that a smaller card will hold the trick, , the play of the one of the se quence cards would be a wilful waste and "we win as cheaply as possible. Save- in situations covered by the foregoing, generally play low; as a rule the lowest card of the suit we hold. Second hand play will be further con sidered in the next issue. " -Pirate Bridge. . As many of my readers may know, a new card game is looming up in the whist horizon.' Whether it is destined to gain the ascendancy over auction remains to be seen. Its promoters, and those who art sponsoring it, together with a numbet of other good players, and the vast army of irresponsible players who de light in novelty, say that it will. Oth ers again, among them some of the strongest and best players of the coun try, affirm that it will not Still oth ers, chiefly those who recall the stresuous objections advanced towards bridge when it first appeared and there was talk it would supplant whist, and, at a later period, towards auction, when bridge in its turn was threatened by auction, and how in each case they finally took up the gauntlet loyally in favor of the newer game, are more conservative in the expression of an opinion and merely say, "they do not know." The new game Is called "pirat bridge." Why It is so called I do not know, unless perhaps the methods a player employs in order to intercept other players and appropriate to him self as partner some one who has beei. previously appropriated by anothei player, may be said to be of a nature more or less piratical. Pirate is built upon auction lines and Is therefore a member of the numer ous whist family. As such, as well as because of the prominence of its spon sors, and the stir it is creating In the card-playing world, it is deserving of more than passing notice. The Idea of the name, the controlling motive of which Is to do away with some of the objectionable features of Auction, originated, it seems, with Aleister Crowley, the English explorer and whiter, and a former auction dev otee. After experimenting with the idea and becoming more and more Im bued with the belief that a game formu lated upon the new principles would possess great advantages over auction, he finally took into his confidence Frank Crownlnshleld, the editor of Vanity Fair. R. F. Foster, known to cardplayers the world over, was later called Into consultation, with the re sult that he further experimented upon and developed the game, introduced it Into several of the leading clubs, and finally launched it upon the card-playing world. The chief objections to auction which Pirate is supposed to overcome are in the words of Mr. Foster, "misfit hands," "uncongenial partners," and "long drawn-out rubbers." Pirate, like auction, is ' a blading game. There is no fixed partnership, and in making a bid a player considers his own hand alone., A bid to be valid must be accepted, that is to say, some player at the table who thinks his hand well suited to the bid, and therefore desires the particular bidder as his partner (a partnership is in force for the current deal only), indicates it by the words "I accept." By the use of this method "misfit hands" are sup posed to be eliminated, as presumably such hands only play together as are best adapted to each other. Thus the winning of each game seems' more or less assured, and. naturally, there are few, if any, long drawn-out rubbers. In the very fact that the hands are so well suited to each other lie many of the objections offered to the game. There is a certain zest and exhilara tion attendant upon the winning of a game, which is closely contested, upon the pivotal trick, the winning or losing of which means victory or defeat, which must necessarily be lacking when success is comparatively easy and the cards to a certain extent play them selves. The promoters of the game tell us. however, that In reality it is one of the .most difficult of games to play, that to play it successfully calls for skill . and finesse' of the highest order. No player can make a higher declara tion until the one previously made has been accepted. If a bid is not accepted it becomes void, and the bidding starts again with the player next in order to the left. When a higher bid Is made and not accepted, the bid reverts auto matlcally to the last accepted bidder. etc., etc, etc. When the preliminaries are finally settled and partnership established the player to the left of the successful bidder leads to the first trick, unless this player happens to be the acceptor, in which case the player to his left leads. Thereupon, as In auction, the acceptor who now becomes dummy, places his cards face upwards upon the table, and the declarer plays the two hands. A unique feature of the game is that your partner may be the player to your right, the one sitting opposite you. or the one to your left. Thus, instead of the two partners always playing alternately, as in other games, it will often happen that the one will play directly after the other. It would seem that this would tend to rob the game of many of the finer features as finesse, leading through, etc.. but its promoters affirm to the contrary. This, the dyed-in-the-wool whist player finds It somewhat difficult to believe, and. like the native Mlssourian. demands "to be shown." Difficulties galore, how ever, in the way' of correct play will doubtless present themselves to the student of the game as the game fur ther unfolds and Its Intricacies become better known. Values are the same as in auction. Individual scores are kept, special score cards being used. The acceptor shares the gains equally with the de clarer, only his score (trick score and all) is recorded in the honor score. A BO-point bonus is allowed for game, an additional 60 for the rubber game. The acceptor scores for game but not for rubber. Penalties are as in auc tion. This is but a brief outline of the game, but it will serve to give some idea of Its origin and underlying principles. ORNAMENTAL METAL FRAMES FOUND ON HANDBAGS AGAIN New Designs Are Straight and Wide in Half-Hooped and Peaked Pagoda Shapes Handles Are Attached Several Inches From Ends of Frame. MANY of the new handbags for Spring have ornamental frames, and silver is again a fashionable metal for the handbag frame. . The new frames are straight and wide, in half hoop shape and in a very peaked pa goda shape, one curve rising above another. Reticule effects have had a prolonged vogue, but women are beginning to tire now of bracelet handles and ribbons run through caeings or metal rings, and the neat and serviceable metal frame is surely coming Into Its own again. The bag pictured here has a frame of silver with a raised, engraved pattern on a dull finished background. The moire silk bag Is gathered in to pouch shape and supports a hand some silk tassel, and on , the ' black silk of the bag four pear-shaped 'motifs of Faisley material are appliqued under an embroidery done with silk thread. The handles are attached in a new way several inches from the ends of the frame. Smart Hats of Satin and Straw Make Big Hit. Between-Seaaon Sailors Come In Various Shapes, but All Are of Black With Black Ribbon. i JfTl WEEN season sailors of black JL satin with straw-edged brim are making a' great hit. These smart lit tle hats are cropping out everywhere and they seem to fill the"need of some thing Springlike, yet not too Spring like for wear when Summer emilea from the shop windows yet Winter frowns from the skies. There are sev eral shapes, all of sailor type, some with straight brims and - others in mushroom style, but all the brims have a straw edge and the straw is blexk, like the lustrous satin which covers the hat. Around the rather large, high crown goes a band of wide gros-grain ribbon, also black, 'made into a pleat ed tailored bow at the right side. If there is anything more luxurious than a satin-soft silk sport skirt, one cannot guess what it can be. The very sensation of playing golf and tennis in a shimmering silk skirt must convey a suggestion of well being. New sport silks for these skirts ha've diecs in plain or broken stripe colors and the skirt is smartest when pleated or gathered below a fitted yoke, a broad sash of the material going twice around and knotting below one hip. PICTURESQUE TYPE OF HAT IS BECOMING TO YOUNG GIRLS Crown of White Broadcloth With Brim of White Shirred Soiree Silk and Sage-Green Chiffon, Gathered Underneath, Is Admired. THEi picturesque type of hat looks best on some young girls; other little girls may wear small, smart dashing styles successfully. A pretty hat for a girl of 13 years of age; a hat for dress-up occasions, of course, and suitable for wear with a" velvet or cloth coat trimmed with white fur, is described. The hat crown is of white broadcloth, the brim of white shirred white soiree silk, with sage green chiffon gatnered Inside the deep, mushroom brim. Wide white satin ribbon is folded around the crown to hide the joining of crown and brim and a cluster of white hyacinths with spiky green leaves makes a pretty trln.ming in front. v In purchasing hats of this dainty character the mother should make sure that sewing silk and not 'some cheap thread substitute has been used to make shirrlngs and other stitches, for a hat sewed with anything but- silk thread is apt to look shabby, faded and clogged with dust before very long. ? 1 opi. &: :.. This Hat for the Flapper. 5 ISk " - Metal Bac Frames Return to Favor. Very fetching is a pattern with Roman striped discs on a wedgwood blue ground. Another pattern shows green discs on a pale tan ground this .in light shantung weave. Spdrt silks in the soft La Jerz weave .which will not stretch like ordinary Jersey silk, have rose-pink dots on a white ground, and one may use plain rose La Jerz for trimmings and coat. Of course, there are many other colorings, but the rose hue seems to be loveliest of alL Copper-colored blouses are gaining ground so fast that the fashionable mustard shade is beginning to look' a bit green from jealousy. The copper hued blouses are of lustrous silk, like soiree and faille matinee, or of satin meteor. They are simply made, for the gorgeous color Is a host in itself; hemstitchings or rows of machine stitching in self-colored sewing silk give a dainty rimsh and of course all high-class blouses are sewed through out in seams and all details of fin ish with matching silk and never with the cheap thread substitutes that so Retract from distinction. Stewed Beef Kidneys. Take a" fresh beef kidney and let it stand in cold water for about 10 min utes. Remove fat and skin, then cut or chop into dice. Put into a stew pot Just cover with cold water and put over a slow fire. Add a slice of onion, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter tea spoonful pepper, three dessertspoon fuls canned tomato, half a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce. Let simmer, not boll, for about an hour or until tender. Take about a teaspoonful of the gravy in a cup, and when cool mix it with a dessertspoonful of flour to a smooth, thin paste. Gradually stir into the stew until It seems thick enough. Let simmer a lit tle while longer, serve very hot in a covered dish. This can be prepared the day before and simply heated the next morning for breakfast. I X 1 I II' I I TANDARI Kvenlng Coats. There is no more graceful or beauti ful feminine garment -than the even ing wrap, if it is tastefully selected To the statWy woman it lends a truly regal air, while it enfolds the petite woman with a charm that beggars de scription. The new wraps are magnifi cent in fabric and trimming. The designers have gratified a long-suppressed desire to utilize the richest ma terials in the treasure house of fashion by transforming them into evening wraps. The indescribable beauty of the brocaded satins, silks and velvets can only be hinted at. In coloring they rival the peacock, opal and rainbow; in texture and design they equal the un surpassed beauty of Persian, Chinese and Japanese silks. jrx , iHnum -o, OF KUhidL. O-- A0 CjtKVH-C. WONDERLIFT" c7 v 1 Hygienic Service Woaderlift device adjusted in cor rect position. WonderHft Bandlet the counter part of healthy abdominal muscles. Combination of front steels with adjustable Bandleta, lifts internal organs mto normal position. Carved front steels equalise, control, uplift and hold superfluous flesh on abdomen in position. Garten, detached from front steels, avoid pressure over abdomen. 4 5 Style Service swy back by correct ins poise. Improves contour of body by trpllft in and reducing superfluous fleah. Flattens abdomen into normal, youthful lines. Reduces sixe of abdomen, gives proper "hang" and style to akin. Holds cuiset doee. Insures grrHwth lines over hips and 't-n The Nemo WonderHft Bandlet is the greatest and most valuable of all corset inventions. It produces ultra-stylish lines while promoting health and preserving youthful vigor and good looks. NOTHING IN THE WORLD LIKE IT! IT IS A GODSEND TO WOMANKIND Eight distinct models in WonderHft Corsets for cveiy type of figure, from lean andlbony to super-stout. $5.00. $7.50 and $10.00 Zfcr good to yourself! Srudy these marvel corsets. . Pii miii'i. tn Kipf.t I Vie mrtdel rIesiifnpH frr YD I I R firfiir and forget that you ever had any corset-troubles. 11 Cmt Jar.. aVi i Hmmm Hrnoic-FaiUra instforta. Nr Tfc Qty Reading in Rocker Is dared Pernicious. Caanse of Light and Presence of Shadows Hard on Eyes. AWELLKSOWN oculist declares that women injure their eyes sometimes seriously, by swinging back and. forth in a rocking chair while reading. This practise is especially injurious when one is reading by arti ficial light, or by daylight when the sway of the rocker makes shadows come and go on the printed page. Rigidly as one may think one's book is held, there is bound to be a little unsteadiness of the page as the chair goes forward and back, and the eyes must adjust themselves rapidly to the changing focus. Everyone knows the danger of read ing in a fast moving railroad train, but reading V1 a fast moving rocking chair is Quite as bad. Women who use a low rocker for sewing, seldom sway back and forth much when an Important bit of work is in hand. The chair stops and interest is concen trated on the problem of stitching or hemmingr but many a woman will read and rock; rock and read through a whole evening, and perhaps every time her chair comes forward the sha dow of the lampshade-fringe is cast across the page of her book this in addition to the continual change of focus made necessary for long-suffering eyes. ' A rocking chair is not really restful and most women rock from nervous habit, the more nervous they are, the faster they ' rock. Man really rests and relaxes when he Bits him down in a deep, rockerless arm chair. Who ever saw a man rocking violently and smoking a cigar at the same time? The woman who can sit perfectly still with folded hands while she rests, and spend an hour reading without rock ing or swinging one foot with knees crossed, will benefit in nerves and in eyes from the resting or reading; she who rocks and reads will certainly feel eyestrain from the practise soon or late. gravated cases after applying the lat ter for two or three nights, change to vaseline treatment and then, hav ing reclaimed the lips, so they have firmness, keep them, in good condition by drying them properly and by keep ing the tongue away from them. - Dictates of Fashion. Bar pins of silver set with rhinestones are in very good standing. The sports shirts of striped flannel are attractive and comfortable. A frock is not a frock this season un less it shows some embroidery. New evening slippers of black satin show bowknots of colored jet sequins. Short jackets of fur. reaching Just to the hips. ar worn with velvet skirts. Dry, Hoarse or Painful Coughs Quickly Ended. Eone-Mada Remedy that Saves) Hon 92 Don thr 'Work. Thoroughly. Excellent Lip Salve. An excellent lip salve for ordinary use is the old-fashioned camphor ice. Glycerin should not be used in any case. It has too great an affinity for water and is too drying, while the cam phor Ice is cooling and healing. In ag- The prompt and positive action of thii simple, inexpensive home-made remedy is quickly healing the inflamed or swollen membranes of the throat, chest or bron chial tubes and breaking up tight coughs, has caused it to be used in more homes than any other cough remedy. Under its healing, soothing influence, chest sorenese goes, phlegm loosens, breathing becomes easier, tickling in throat stops and vou get a good night's restful "sleep. The usual throat and Jiest colds are conquered by it in 24 hours or less. Nothing better for bron chitis, hoarseness, croup, whoopir . cough, bronchial asthma or winr coughs. Tc make thir splendid cough syrup, pour 2V ounces o. Pinex (50 cents worth), into a pint bottle and fill the bottle with plair granulated sugar evrup and shake thoroughly. You then havo a full pint a family supply of a much better cough svrup than vou could buy ready-made for $2.50. Keeps perfectly and children love its pleasant taste. Pinex is a special and highly concen trated compound of genuine Nonpar pine extract, combined with guaiacol and is known the world over for its promptness, ease and. certainty in over coming stubborn coughs and chest colds. To avoid disappointment ask your druggist for "2 ounces of Pinex" with full directions, and don't accept any thing else. Guaranteed to give absolute satisfaction or monev promptly refunded. The Pinex Co., Pt. Wayne, lad.
