6
THE STJXDAT OREGOXIAX, rORTLAXD, JANUARY 21. 1917.
MILES OF SOUTACHE ARE TO BE USED ON THIS
SEASONS GARMENTS, PARIS EDICT SAYS
Spring Blouses Are AH Gracefully Loose and Soft, Giving Attractive Outline of Figure
Cuffs Are Trim and Correct Small Pearl Buttons Are Used.
-Few Snaps Are Used but
f A f "a r- '
I ' - If? ' ;
$ s- - - - - , i i
for no
enough
through
All
' fully
times saddled and. with What "show of
srrace" they can command, nust for the
time being accept. - If such players
would but rouse from their lethargy
and concede that their own play is de
ficient, that auction is a game of de
velopments and that if they play at all
they should keep abreast of the im
provements, the standard of play
would be immeasurably raised and
good players would not find themselves,
as now, constanly harassed and handi
capped. The fault is not in the game
nor in the system, but in the players:
not in the genuine players, but in those.
and their name is legion, who "play at
the game." and with the amazing com
placency which .seems to attach to cer
tain people in all phases .whose knowl
edge of a subject is exceedingly lim
ited, are' as serene and Felf-satistied
as though they in reality knew all or
more than they professed to know.
This is a surprising trait of many of
the would-be players of auction and
Just how to cope with t is somewhat
difficult to determine.
The foVowing from a well-known
Eastern paper will perhaps give added
emphasis to these comments:
"A. curious feeling exists among
some auction players regarding the
quality of the game they play. In all
lines of science and . art there have
been few men or women who have not
had to recognize someone as superior
to them. . Why auction players can
not recognize this and. instead of
showing Jealousy and 111 feeling, strive
by study to ascertain wherein others
are" stronger and then apply them
selves to improving their game, is a
hard question to answer. Good plays
by opponents should be cheerfully ac
knowledged. To defend poor play by
one's self is ndt a sign of genius. The
player who knows it all is never
sought after, either socially or as a
member of a team.""
Having received a number of re
quests, many of them from out-of-,
town people, that I put in book form I
the series of articles I am now r-n- '
tributing to The Oregonian. I take
this occasion to say in response that
while it is possible I may do so. I
have not as yet giv.en the matter any
serious attention and it is indefinite.
1 should suggest in the meantime clip
pings being saved from The Oregoftian
and, as can easily be done, arranged
in some convenient form for easy ref
erence. I am sincerely grateful for
these marks of appreciation on the
part of my readers and shall be glad
of any co-operation they may be dis
posed to give me. Questions or points
on which special advice is wanted, as
well as any newsy or interesting items
bearing on the-game, will be gladly
received and given careful attention. I
can be reached in care The Oregonian
or at 415 Yamhill street
GROUP PORTRAITS OF WOMEN ACCORDED
PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN WORLD EVENTS
Eleanor Painter, American Singer, Is Wife of Louis Graveure, Belgian Baritone Princess of Pless and Duchess of
Westminster Are Daughters of Mrs. W. Corn wallis-West, Implicated in War Office Scandal. ,
New Spring Skirt Shaped
Like Barrel.
Garment Is I.onK and liaises
tween Hip and Knee.
F
iKESII as Springtime itself is the
airy organdie blouse, put together
with hand etitches and simple in
design as a wash blouse should be.
Paris sends this model of flesh-pink
organdie with collar and cuffs of
white organdie, the cuffs fitted trimly
by rows of tiny pin tucks, run not
quite to the edge, so that a little frill
makes a crisp finish.
The panel down the front is treated
In the same way and very small pearl
buttons, placed closely together add
an entirely new and strikinpr trimming.
A very pronounced decolletage is noted
the new French blouses and some
times a narrow ribbon tie emphasizes
the effect.
Miles of soutache will be used on
this season's costumes and the thin
ner the fabric on which the soutache
is placed, the smarter the effect. Here
is a new costume blouse of blue
tan and brown georgette with
soutache embroidery in lighter brown.
The pointed", cuffs are of brown satin
matched to the georgette inserts in
blouses and collar. The blouse fastens
with two snaps, one at the bust and
the other at the waistline and is very
easy to get into. Time must be taken,
however, to fasten the cuffs firmly.
cuff is smart that is wide
to allow the hand to slip
without subsequent fastening.
the Spring blouses are grace
loose and the soft, fine mate
rials give them lovely lines on the
figure. The ubiquitous touch of color
is present in this model of fine wash
able voile, for the collar is embroid
ered in the new disc and ring pattern,
done with white and rose silk on a
flesh-tinted blouse. Box pleats,
pressed, but not stitched flat, and
groups of small pin tucks run clear
across-the blouse back and front, and
there is hemstitching in addition to
the embroidery on the collar.
THfe new skirt for Spring, is barrel
shaped, bulging decidedly between
hip and knee and small at belt and
hem. In order to be graceful . such
a skirt must be fairly long to the
ankle at least, and the new models in
this style show the ankle length. Boots
of exclusive type are coming in with
lower tops, though there is no diminu
tion . In the prettiness and daintiness
of footwear. The buttoned -top of cloth
with vamp of eoft glazed kid has the
favor for formal wear, and with sport
and walking suits are worn lower
heeled buttoned boots and laced 'boots
of very dark brown glazed kid.
Muffler la Attractive.
An attractive sport muffler, with hat
to match, for southland wear, is made
of ribbon braided in basket effect. The
ribbon Is blue with a narrow edge of
white, and In the basket weave the
blue and white stripes show up effectively.
The edge of the muffler, which is cut
at the ends- in tab shape, is bound with
narrow white ribbon, stitched securely
with blue sewing silk. The hat. of
white straw, has a high crown cbv
ereti with . the braided ribbon and
cockade in blue and white Is set at the
front.
Skirt Are 'Pleated.
The sport girl of the South is wear
ing a. separate skirt of pleated white
serge or rajah silk and looee sport
blouse or "skirt" of soft, washable
satin, also white. A wide sash of the
blouse material with fringe on the
ends is knotted over the waistline and
hips and the ends fall at one side.
The effect is graceful, and, of course.
the white costume is matched by a
white sport hat and boots of white
washable kid.
Superlatively smart with such a
sport costume is a loose belted coat
of white pontine, the waxed outer sur
face being broken by tiny white pearl
buttons and handsomely silk stitched
pockets, cuffs and revers. The pon
tine coats are much fancied for motor
and sport wear because of the warmth
with perfect lightness of this material,
which is also snappy and smart with
its glossy waxed outer surface and
the silky-soft facing on the inner side.
liV ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY.
THOSE who have compared the 1917
laws with those of 1915 will be
impressed with the fact that but
few changes have been made and those
minor ones, bearing upon some contin
gency not hitherto provided for. or
perhaps incorporating as a law and
making subject to a penalty some re
striction formerly appearing in the
rules of etiquette. The wording,
though not the sense, of several has
been changed to do away with any pos
sible ambiguity or chanct of misinter
pretation. No change relative to values
or form or bidding has been made.
This is entirely the reverse of the
outcome of the revision of 1915. At that
time and for some years previous there
had been a decided spirit of unrest
among the players of the country. No
uniform system of bidding was in
vogue and fads, innovations and isms
of all sorts were being constantly ex
ploited. Almost everyone apparently
was afflicted with what might be called
the auction inventor's fever, the desire
to formulate or invent some form or
play, no matter how illogical or illy
adapted, it might be to the requirements
of the game in order to be hailed as
an authority and looked upon as a
player separate and apart from the or
dinary run of players. The game was
in all respects erratic and undependa
ble. What was learned today had to
be unlearned tomorrow. The best of
players playing with a , group of
strangers was compelled to ask. and in
his turn answer, question alter ques
tion before he could play at all satis
factorily either to himself or the re
maining players.
- This was the condition at the time
the committee, the lawmakers of the
game, met for their annual revision in
June, 1915. The time had come, as they
fully realized, for drastic action, for the
unlimited exercise or Judgment, tact,
power and authority.
Not only were radical changes de
manded In values and many of -the
laws, but a system to meet the require
ments of these changes had to be
evolved, and its universal adoption ur
gently insisted upon or the game would
die a natural death and be known no
more. In a word, the game had lit
erally to be made over, rescued from
its impending doom and revivified,
given new life and force and vigor.
So radical were many of the changes
at that time made that many doubted
they would be adopted. The reverse,
however, has proven the case, and, re
peated tests having demonstrate that
they apparently fill all requirements,
it may at last be truthfully said that
the game is standardized. Those fa
miliar with the adopted system have
a sense of security now when playing
that hitherto has been missing, a feel
ing that their tactics will not be mis
understood; that their several bids, or
lack of bids, will be estimated at their
true worth and acted upon by the part
ner accordingly. Above all. one is im
pressed with a delightful sense of .the
permanency of ,the system, a convic
tion that what they learn today will
not have to be speedily unlearned, that
auction as at present played is not only
the game of today, but of tomorrow
and of many tomorrows.
Auction, bridge, whist, all scientific
card games, are not unlike a delicate
piece of mechanism in that the several
parts must be thoroughly tested, not
only separately, but as to their rela
tion the one to the other; balance and
equilibrium must be secured and per
fect adjustment attained before the
greatest good of which the game is
capable may be said to have been se
cured. In an earlier issue I discussed
to some extent the various stages of
evolution through which auction has
passed, how it gradually . evolved from
an exceedingly crude and immature
stage, in which there was much left
to be desired, to the highly scientific
and satisfactory mode in use at the
present.
Auction is & partnership game. One
player alone does not reap the benefits
or . bear the losses,- but both share
equally in these respects. The primary
object of a bid is not necessarily to se
cure the bid best suited to the partlcu
lar hand, but the bid best suited to the
two hands. This, the form of bidding,
as formulated by the standard system,
Is supposed to accomplish. If a play
er s bid does not suit his partner, he,
the partner, must "so advise the de
clarer, not by word of mouth, but by
the observance of certain principles as
set down in the standard system. The
original declarer, having received his
partner's message, and. knowing the
amount of help or lack of help he may
expect from him in the bid he has
made, is then in position to judge what
seems best for the combined interests;
whether, perhaps, despite his partner's
warning, to persist with his own
declaration, whether to leave his part
ner in with bis bid or, the partner
having been overcalled by an oppo
nent, to support his bid. In this. too.
he is not dependent upon his indi
vidual judgment, though Judgment is
lways a potent factor, b.ut definite
rules and principles are laid down for
his guidance.
In view of the immense advantages
accruing to the partnership from the
knowledge and use of the standard
system, it is surprising how few, com
paratlvely. of our players take pains
to inform themselves on the subject.
At a recent auction party a player of
unquestioned ability who had bid a
no trump one of the light no trump
ers which are now freely bid on the
assumption that the partner will come
to the rescue if his hand is not suited
to the bid. at the completion of the
deal asked her partner why she had
not made tne rescue bid. Atthe no
trumper the hand went literally to
pieces; the rescue bid would have
fallen little short of game.)
Bid Often Invited.
"With an air of conscious superiority
she replied that she made it a prin
ciple never to interfere with her part
ner's bid. Yet Interference, if that is
the proper word to use I should cal
it self-preservation, defense, rescue
was precisely what the declarer want
ed: what the bid invited, in case it did
jot suit the partner's hand. It is play
ers of this caliber who are the para
sites of the game, the incubus witb
which the , best of players, especially
if playing a "social gaine, axe at
7' ' ' v ' s.. V"' 1 !? & '--fl
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I in , , ; V fsv I ( (fcd.
f. .: i ': . . w i i W . , ''-f rmri-i " ' ------
Xlght In Japanese Newspaper Office.
Archie Bell in .World Outlook for
December.
Eleven o'clock at night In an Amer
ican newspaper office is the rush hour.
Typewriters click frantically and copy
boys haven t a minute to sit down and
digest the baseball scores. It's the
time of night when editors are widest
awake. r-
I chose that time, therefore, to visit
the office of the Nichi-Nichl in Tokyo.
-?res
ELEANOR PAINTER, the singer. Is
in private life Mrs. Louis Grave
ure. wife of the Belgian baritone.
She is an American girl who made a
reputation in grand opera abroad be
fore coming to this country. She has
devoted herself since to light opera,
which is far more profitable in thl
country than grand opera abroad.
...
The Princess of Pless is one of the
daughters of Mrs. William Cornwaills
Wesf, who has Just been found guilty
f "discreditable conduct" In using her
influence with men In the War Office
to have young Lieutenant Barrett dis
graced because he repelled her ad
vances. Her husband is. a German
Prince, but has lived long in England.
The Duchess of Westminster Is a
daughter of Mrs. William Cornwallis
Yeit, Just implicated in the nasty War
Office scandal in England.
.
Ellen Gates Starr, of Hull House,
Chicago, is taking ah active and sympa
thetic interest in the clothing workers
who have been on strike in New York.
It was reported that she was to come
to New York to organize the social
workers who were assisting the strik
ers, but all that Miss Starr did was
to express the wish that she were in
New York to help.
"I am very proud to have been made
an honorary member of their union,"
she- writes to the Bain News Service,
"and regard them as my adoptive
brothers and sisters. May they speed
ily win their just demands."
Mrs. Virginia M. Spinks. of
fornia. is one of three women
Cali-from
- v v i. - u
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I y ' it ' " 4 V" 1
I ' - - t . K '.V-r
1 i. 4 - - V t I
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that state elected to the Electoral Col
lege to vote for Wilson.
. m
Comtesse de Olivera arrived in New
York recently for her first visit to
America to tour with Mme. Simone
Puget. She brought with her "Billy
Toss." her French bulldog, which was
a general favorite with the passengers
on the trip.
I wanted to find things moving at their
height. The N'ichi-Nichi is a big morn
ing daily, popular with the masses but
not because of any particular leanings
or tendencies.
Presenting myself at the sidewalk
entrance of the big building in which it
ISIS AND OSIRIS PROMISE TO
BE DIVINITIES OF TEAROOM
. -L)UIJ.ml.lM1.1 uci
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i
EGYPTIAN, TEA,TR AY OW FAU.
JAPANESE motifs have been the
craze in tea room furnishings
for a long time, but they
are threatened now by the strong
favor for Egyptian decorations that
is growing apace. ' lsis and Osiris
promises ere long to be the divinities of
the tea room and by the tea room is
meant, not the public tea place where
one stops in for a cup of one's favor
ite beverage after shopping, but the
cosy nook at home set apart and spe
cially, f urnifch-sd ior tea hour.
The tea tray in the picture is of con
venient square size with mahogany
rim and metal handles. Glass over
hand embroidered silk in a tapestry
design reproducing an ancient Egyp
tian pattern, forms the bottom of the
tray. It would take an individual well
versed in Egyptian symbols and
heiroglyphies to decipher all of 'the
design, but a superficial knowledge
picks out the ancient Egyptian beetle,
the lotus flower, the sacred bird, and
other emblems.
is published. I aroused a couple ot
sleeping porters, who allowed me to
pass. Everyone I encountered in ' the
anterooms was asleep, with the excep
tion of some office boys, who were pre
paring tea. It was like walking through
the palace of the Sleeping Beauty,
where everyone had been sent to sleep
in the midst of his task.
1 was taken to the office of the tele
graph editor. Fortunately he was
awake.
"The first edition has gone to press,
so practically everyone has gone to
sleep," he said to me, "but we will take
a look around."
And what he said was true- We went
to editorial sanctums; one after an
other, and when we didn't nearly stum
ble over on editor asleep on the floor
we found him setretched out asleep on
his desk.
Japanese editors do not believe in
keeping awake at night, when waiting
for late news to come in. If they do
not publish it today or tomorrow, they
may be ablf to get It in the next day.
What is the use of killing an article
because something of greater impor
tance arrives later in the evening? The
newer stuff will make good "copy" for
another day.
Toggery for Small Boy Most
Attractive.
-Trim Little
KnoaKh to
Mather.
Suit
IMenae
Are
Moat
Dainty
Dotlns
M
OST engaging are the little suits of
white washable satin for small
boys of from four to seven years.
With none of the objectionable Lord
Fauntleroy "girliness" which the mod
ern small boy abhors, these little suits
are dainty, enough to piease the most
doting mother. The trim knee Dreeches
are garnished with a few pearl buttons
on the outer seam and the short, single
breasted jacket is belted loosely at
the wrtistline.
A turnover, round, collar and cuffs
are not conspicuous enough .to make
the costume fanciful in- style. 'These
suits, of washable satin, are beautifully
made. . Btitcned and seamed also with
white sewing silk so that there is no
danger tf the material puckering in
the wash, as a silk fabric might it
stitched with a substitute for silk
thread. There must br white acces
sories with such a smart -white suit
buttoned boots of while washable- kid.
ribbed stockings of white silk or very
fine cotton (.for mothers will not put
silk hosiery upon children) and one
of the fetchingly boyish hats of soft
white velour felt.
Smart also are linen suits in the new
mustard-yellow shade with collar and
cuffs of black satin trimmed with- sev
eral rows of fine white braid. These
suits have also the short rather tight
knee breeches; but the tunics are in
slipover style with sailor collar open
ing low at the front and a tie of. black
silk slipped through a .ring of white
cord.
c Good Old Home-Made S
a Family Cough Remedy a
K SInrh Better than the Ready- Qj
fjJ Made Kind Easily and re
p Cheaply Prepared. rG
If you combined the curative proper
ties of every known "ready-made cough
remedy, yon would hardly have in thorn
all the curative power that lies in this
simple "home-made" cough syrup which,
takes only a few minutes to prepare.
Get from any drugjrist iV ounces of
Pinex ( SO cents worth ) , pour it into a
pint bottle and fill the bottle with plain
granulated sugar syrup. The total cost
is about 54 cents and gives you a full
pint of really better cough syrup than
vou could buy ready-made for $2.50.
Tastes pleasant and never spoils.
This Vinex and sugar syrup prepara
tion gets right at the cause of a cough,
and gives almost immediate relief. It
loosens the phlegm, stops the nasty
throat tickle and heals the sore, irri
tated membranes that line the throat,
chest and bronchial tubes, so gently
and easily that it is really astonishing.
A day's use will usually overcome the
ordinary couprh and for bronchitis,
croup, whooping cough and bronchial .
asthma, there, is nothing better.
Pinex is a most valuable concentrated
compound of eenuine Norway pine ex
tract, combined with puaiacol and has
been used for generations to .break up
severe coughs.
To avoid disappointment, be sure to
ask your druggist for "2ta ounces of
Pinex" with full directions, and don't
accept anything else. A guarantee of
absolute satisfaction or money prompt
lv refunded, coes with this preparation.
The Pinex Co., ft. Wayne, lnd.
I
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