THE SUXDAT OREGOXm, TOKTL'D, JANUARY 21, lOll
KOTZEBUE AND THE K0BUK
'fCopyrisht. 117. by Frank G. Carpenter.)
NOME. Alaska. There's a '.and above the
Arctic, they call It Kotzebue;
I seem to hear it caliin'. it's callin' me
and you.
It ain't no place for children, nor .for wom
en, understand;
TaIn't no place for mollycoddles, but for
men with lots of sand.
Seems a thousand miles from nowhere and
a million from a sound,
A-Judgin' from the silence that's a-hangin'
all around.
But again I hear it call In.' It's callin' me
end you.
So I'm sailin' in the mornln. sail In' north to
Kotzebue.
Edgar C. Raine.
This letter relates to Kotzebue and
the Kobuk. It deals with Arctic Alaska,
that vast area which lies between the
Arctic Circle and the Arctic Ocean. It
treats of one of the least known coun
tries of the world and one of the
strangest. My Information concerning
it eomes from talks with its prospect
ors who have drifted to Nome for their
Winter supplies, and with the miners
and traders who live there and who
have taken advantage of open navis,
tion to pay their annual Summer visU
to this metropolis of the North. Last
night, for Instance, I had a long talk
with a man who has a etore and trad
ing station on Kotzebue Sound, nd
during my stay I have had several in
terviews with Judge M. F. Moran. who
represents our farthest north in the
Legislature of Alaska. He lives so far
away from Juneau, the capital, that his
mileage allowance is J900. His home
is at Shungnak, on the Kobuk River
above the Arctic Circle, and eo far
north that during the Summer he has
broad daylight for three months in suc
cession, while for a part of the Winter
his home is almost shrouded in dark
ness. But before I give the gist of these in
terviews, let us take a bird'seye view
of the- country . to which they relate.
Arctic Alaska comprises about one
fourth of the territory. It is almost
half the size of Illinois and three times
that of Ohio, Virginia and Kentucky.
If you could lift it up and drop it down
upon Europe, it would more than cover
the half of France, Germany or the
Spanish peninsula, and it would entirely
hide the British Isles with its blanket
of enow.
Arctic Alaska may be said to begin
a little south of Bering Strait and to
run from there eastward to the Ca
nadian boundary, and northward to the
Arctic Ocean. The country comprises
some parts of the northern watershed
of the Yukon, and it includes the
Rocky Mountain system, which, extend
ing from the United States through
Canada, runs almost to th Western
end of Alaska. This range in Alaska
is nearly 100 miles wide and it slopes
down into the plains which border the
Arctic Ocean. The mountains are a
mile and a half high where the range
leaves Canada, and they fall to the
height of the Alleghanies, or lower, on
their way westward.
The coastal plains are a part of the
tundra belt that encircles the Arctic
Ocean. Much of the ground is low and
swampy. It has great lagoons and mo
rasses and many slow-flowing rivers.
The plains are covered with moss, upon
which the Eskimos graze their rein
deer. There is practically no timber,
except the stunted trees in the moun
tains, and the alder and willows, which
grow along the banks of the streams.
The vast country has less population
than any other under the American
flag. It has a few white men living
Innir TT n i 1 1 lr T-f i v t r nnrl Ihpr nrf. nil
told, perhaps 3000 or 4000 Eskimos.
The Eskimos are scattered along the
Arctic Ocean in little -settlements, the
largest of which have only 300 or 400
souTs. There are several Eskimo vil
lages in the inter.ior. The Government
has established schools at nearly all
of these settlements and many of the
Eskimos are growing rich in the rais
ing of reindeer. They also hunt walrus
for their ivory tusks, which they sell
to the traders, and they deal largely in
furs.
One of the chief trading stations is
at Kotzebue Sound. The white men in
charge there tell me that they have
during the Summer 500 native families
lving in canvas tents, . and that the
Eskimos come in by sea from as far
north a Point Barrow. They use great
skin boats, called omiaks, which are
five or six feet in width and 30 feet
long." Such boats will carry from five
to eight tons. They have square sails
and are propelled lso by. paddles.
The natives bring with' them the furs
they have caught in the Winter and
trade them for calicos, ginghams and
other cloth. --They buy all kinds of
hardware and especially needier for the
sewing of parkas and mukluks. They
want the best of guns, knives and
hatchets. They buy canned foods of
various kinds and even stoves and win
dow glass to take back to their homes.
One reason for their coming to Kotze
bue its to catch salmon, the Winter
food supply for themselves and their
dogs.. ,
T asked the trader to tell me some
thing as to the character of Kotzebue
Sound. He replied:
it is a great Day, into wnicn now
some of the largest rivers of North
ern Alaska. One is the Kobuk. which
is 600 or 700 miles long; another the
1!
On poultry farms of any size,
especially those that make a spe
cialty of day-old chicks and cus
tom hatching, a suitable place
for the operation of an incubator
is highly important- Incubators
are run in a great variety of
places and under varying condi
tions, but for best results at
the least labor and worriment to
the operator a cellar or basement
provides the most generally sat
isfactory environment. The fol
lowing article contains a design
for an improved type of cellar,
with instructions for building it.
- BY ROBERT ARMSTRONG.
Expert Poultryman and Writer.
OME poultryraisers claim that an
incubator can be operated any
rJ where in the barn, attic, cellar,
loft, shed, springhouse, in the kitchen,
parlor or in a tent. Be that as it may,
authorities agree that the best location
is where the atmosphere Is to a great
extent uniform and cool and where it
is possible to obtain plenty of ventila
tion at the same time. The air in the
room for an incubator must be sweet
and fresh, or the eggs will not receive
the oxygen which they absolutely re
quire.
The above-mentioned conditions are
seldom found in buildings above ground,
especially in frame structures, hence
the custom of running incubators in
cellars and basements, and the popu
larly accented Idea that they must be
run In such place. Where only a few.
machines are used they are usually
operated in the cellar of the poultry-
man s dwelling, which Is a good idea,
except that.it is advisable to partition
off a tight room for the machines, so
that the heat from the furnace, if there
la one. or drafts from windows or doors
will not affect the hatches. Where the
incubator eauipment Is extensive, nar
ticularly where mammoth machines
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Noatak, which is almost as large, and
a third is the Selawik, which is more
than half the length of the Kobuk.
The port is an open' roadstead, but
there is good shelter for ships, except
when the south wind blows."
"What sort of a settlement have you
at Kotzebue?"
"It is little more than a trading sta
tion. It has a etore and a fish can
nery. The chief industry is the fish
eries, the Eskimos coming from long
distances to catch and dry their sup
ply of fish for the Winter.
"Are the fish of that region valu
able?" "Yes. . They are caught in the ice
bergs, and are fine and fat. Owing to
the intense cold, they have a coat of
blubber between the skin and the fleeh.
We have a great many salmon and
also speckled trout and Dolly Varden
trout. Our cannery has a capacity of
15,000 cans per annum,, and it has been
shipping salmon and salmon trout for
four or live years. The salmon Is of
a light color and it does not bring so
much for that reason. But to offeet
this we have the Dolly Varden trout,
which reaches a weight of 10 or 15
pounds and a length of three feet. The
trout are especially fine. They art
caught in abundance when running and
the output of the cannery mig"ht be
greatly increased."
at
O ri of the best authorities on Kotze
bue sound and the Kobuk River is
Judge M. F. Moran, who lives on the
Kobuk v two or three hundred miles
from the sound. Said he:
"It is three thousand miles from Se
attle to Kotzebue, and the steamers
make regular sailings thre every July
and August.- There are- small steamers
on the Kobuk, and goods are carried
up that stream into the heart of the ter
ritory. 1 live in the Kobuk Valley and
have been there for 12 years. Winter
and Summer. I have taken up a home
stead, of 320 acres about S00 miles east
of the Sound. It is the farthest north
are used, best results are secured when .
the apparatus is housed in a cellar spe-
daily Duiit lor me purpose.
It Is often desirable to hatch In the
late Spring or even in the Summer
months, but if the incubator is run in
a house above ground, which is quickly
heated by the sun s rays. It is difficult.
almost Impossible, for the operator to
keep the temperature of the egg cham
bers low enough. Because the tempera
ture t)f most structures above, ground
varies- widely, every 24 hours, and be
cause it is virtually out of the question
to maintain moisture in such places x
cept by radically artificial means, op
erating incubators unfler these circum
stances necessitates constant regulation
and watching. .
Essentials of at Good Cr-llar.
The ideal cellar or structure in which
to run a machine is built about two
thirds below the ground level, which
affords a fairly uniform, cool tempera
ture, and one-third above the ground,
which permits of adequate ventilation.
In selecting a site, the first thing to
consider is drainage, and on this ac
count a hillside or high, dry ground i
preferable. It is well, also, to consider
the "location of the cellar in relation to
the brooder house, dwelling and other
conveniences. Remember that it will
be visited often, from early in the
morning until late at night, and in
every kind of weather, which means
some very bad weather, consequently it
should be built with the idea of acces
sibility.
The cellar may be erected in con-
Junction w-ith a brooder house, laying
house, granary or other building, or it
may be built as shown in the accom
panying sketch, as a separate unit,
with a gable roof. For the conveni
ence of this article we will consider it
as an independent building, though it
is easily converted into any other
modification.
The cellar should be large enough to
allow the attendant to work around the
machine conveniently. If small ma
chines are being used at the time of
of any homestead In Uncle Sam's ter
ritory." "What kind of . a climate have you?"
I asked.
"I consider the Kobuk Valley one of
the most delightful parts of Alaska."
replied Judge Moran. We have four
months of very cold weather. J& the
streams are frozen solid by the 1st of
October and we have a steady cold
from then until about the middle of
May. Shortly after that the ice goes
out with a rush and Summer begins.
"How cold does it get during the
Winter?"
"The thermometer sometimes goes
down to 60 or 60 degrees below zero,
but as a rule it is much above that,
and we have weeks when it is only a
few degrees above or below. The air
is dry and there is but little wind, and
we have no trouble to keep ourselves
warm. There are. perhaps. 75 white
people who live on the Kobuk and its
tributaries. Many of the men have
brought their wives with them, and
children have been born in the oun
try. Among our people are emigrants
from North Dakota and Minnesota;
they say that the climate of the Ko
buk is quite as good as the country
from which they came." '.
"Give me an idea of your Summers.'
"They are delightful. We have many
days when the thermometer goes up to
80. and I have seen.it at 9 degrees
above zero. It is light all the time dur
ing the Summer. We put away our
lamps in March and do not bring them
out until late In September. You can
read a newspaper at any hour of t:-.e
night without artificial light. There is
so much sunshine that everything
grows twice as fast as in the States.
The grass along the river is as high as
your head and the land everywhere is
green rand spotted with wild . flowers.
We have great fields of blue forget-me-nots,
thousands of wild roses of a deli-
building the cellar, it is best to provide
for the installation of a mammoth ma
chine at some future time, that is. to
make the cellar1 wide enough to accom
modate one .of the large, coal-burning
tVDes. Mammoth machines reauire a
cellar width of aoout 12 feet, and a
ceiling height of 7 feet. Eight feet is
better. Most machines are of the two
sided type with compartments on both
sides. Passageways at least three feet
wide should be allowed for the handling
of egg trays. Two mammoth machines
a v be set up side by side in a cellar
20 feet wide, with plenty of room for
convenient operation. A 1200-egg ma
chine requires a Cellar length of 18
feet, and each additional section of
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cat pink, buttercups as yellow as gold
and sheets of f ireweed that wave under
the wind like masses of flames. We
have altogether 40 different varieties
-I of wild flowers. We have also many
wild berries. Our cranberries are only
half as large as those of the States,
but they are redder and their flavor is
better. We have wild raspberries,
gooseberries and currants, and salmon
berries of a pale lemon color. We have
'all kinos of moss, and especially that
upon which tne reindeer ieeas. mere
are now several thousand, reindeer in
the district. They are owned by the
Eskimos.
"We are now raising vegetables. We
used to bring our turnips, potatoes,
carrots and cabbages from Seattle, not
realizing that we could grow them our
selves. We now raise all we want out
in the open, and also lettuce, peas and
beans. We grow the finest of- toma
toes and cucumbers in our hothout -s.
"Tell me something about the game
of the Kobuk?" '
"It is of many varieties, and we are
so far north that no one bothers about
getting a license for hunting. There is
excellent fishing. The streams of the
delta are such that you can travel
hundreds of miles in a gasoline laurith.
Thejj are deep, but the water is so
clear, that you can see the bottom al
most everywhere.
"The whole valley is . full of wild
birds. There are great flocks of wild
gees, ducks and sandhill cranes that
come to feed on the berries that grow
on the banks of the lakes. These birds
arrive about May 1. sending out their
scouts in advance. The natives watch
for the first goose and then prepare for
the hunt.
"We have,two species of ptarmhran."
Judge Moran continued. "One of these
is the size of a quail and the other that
of a prairie chicken. These birds are
to be found the year around, and,
arrange to sav. they change their color
with the season. In the Summer the
about 300 eggs requires four extra feet.
. In order to save on the labor of ex
cavating, we recommend making the
finished floor level about three feet be
low the natural grade, and using what
earth is removed from the hole to throw
up an embankment around the cellar.
This will secure the desired depth be
low ground at the least expense. The
walls should be built of stone, brick or
concrete, and the floor should be made
ofcement. also the entrance steps and
areaway. In theaccompanylng dia
gram we present a design for a cellar
of concrete. 40 feet long and 14 feet
wide, outside measuremirits. with a ceil
ing height of TVz feet in the clear. The
structure is made of concrete, because
this material has come into general
f n rm lift, and mav he erected bv the
ipoultryman himself with the assistance
of ordinary farm labor. Anyone who
can handle a hatchet and saw and build
a wooden form can execute a satisfac
tory concrete Job, whereas a certain
amount of skill is required to lay up
stone or brick masonry.
- V... V
feathers are brown, the color of the j
tundra. In the Winter they turn to
snow white, so that it is difficult to see
the birds against the snow. This Is a
protection of nature. It is the same
with our rabbits. They are brown, in
the Summer and in the Winter snow
white. We have millions of rabbits.
They feed on the bark of the willow
trees, and they will eat the bark as
high as they can reach, standing on
the snow as they do so. This kills the
trees, and you ofteji see dead willow
thickets of vast extent."
"Have you any Dip; game?"
"We have moose here and there and
thousands of caribou. The caribou go
about in large droves in the Winter. As
to fur animals, we have otter and
muskrat, ermine and marten, and our
mink are noted the world over for
their fine fur."
"How about foxes?"
"We have the best that can be found
in the frigid zone," replied Judge
Moran. "We have every kind, includ
ing the red. the cross, the black or sil
vertip and the white and the blue. All
of these foxes belong to two families.
The red fox -Includes the cross and the
black. The white includes the blue.
Our red foxes average about 17 pounds
in weight. The white and blue foxes
will run about eight pounds."
"Can fur-farming be carried on at a
profit in that part of Alaska?"
"There is no doubt of it," said Judge
Moran. "We have the ideal climate for
fur production and we can breed foxes,
marten, mink and ermine. The Kobuk
was once the natural home of the bea
ver, but that animal is now almost ex
tinct. During one year we shipped
muskrat skins to the amount of 9100.
000. We are now shipping none. Musk
rats could be raised on farms all over
A laska.
"As for foxes. I have started a fur
farm at Shungnak and am breeding
whites, reds and crosses. I have had
as many as 72 foxes at one time, and
I am now rapidly increasing my sup
ply by buying breeding stock of the
natives. ' I pay them one and a half
times the value of the skin. Until late
ly I have lost a niamber of foxes be
'The work of keeping the floor water
proof should be taken up In connection
with the excavation. Excavate to a
depth of nine, inches below the finished
floor level, and fill It in with six inches
of broken stone, cinders, broken tile
brick bats or any other hard, porous
material that will obtain perfect drain
age. Never use ashes. Tamp this foun
dation material to- a solid bed. and it
Is then ready for the concrete floor slah.
which should be abou( three inches
Since the a.dvent of the incuba
tor a branch of the poultry in
dustry has evolved which was
never even ; dreamed of by the
most visionary, and which has
exceeded the most sanguine ex
pectations the day - old - chick
business. There will be an In
teresting article on this subject
for next week.
thick. The floor should be pitched to
drain, for cleaning purposes. And if
the cellar is located in particularly wet
ground, a line of agricultural tile may
be laid through the foundation material
and led away from t.ie building to
lower ground or to a dry well. We
would use a finishing coat of cement
on the floor, or else trowel the con
crete to a smoeth surface.
The walls should be about eight
Inches thick, as shown. For the con
crete throughout we would use the fol
lowing proportion: 1 part cement Zhi
parts sand, and 5 parts crushed stone
pebbles, cinders or slag. The sand
should be clean, sharp and coarse, and
the large aggregate must be free of
loam, clay or organic matter. We
would use cement that is guaranteed
to meet the United States Government
standard. See that it is fresh and in
no way affected by moisture. Needless
to say, it must be stored in a dry place,
as even dampness will cause cement to
set, and it is then worthless.
Measure the ingredient; for concrete;
don't. guess at them: and mix them
thoroughly. The secret of good con
crete is to have the ingredients so thor
oughly mixed that no two grains of
sand or pieces of stone lie together
without an, intervening coating or film
; f i;.Jp,
cause I did not know how strong to
make the pens or inclosures in which
they were kt-pt. I began with high
fences of chicken wire, but 'that wire
was too weak and the mesh was not
right. The animals walked right
through It. Now J have a 14-gauge
steel wire, with a two-inch mesh. It is
made for fox fencing, and it seems to
be excellent."
"What do you know about the-Kobuk
River "
"I ought to know something," said
Judge Moran. "1 have lived on the
Kobuk for more than a decade and have
hunted and fished and prospected for
gold all along it and its tributaries.
The Kobuk is about the best stream in
arctic Alaska. It is 600 miles long. It
flows from east to west, not far north
of the arctic circle, and empties into
the Arctic Ocean at Kotzebue Sound.
The stream winds about like the Yu
kon, and its delta has as many mouths
as the Mississippi. In normal times it
is navigable for 300 miles for steamers
of two and one-half-feet draft. It is
a better river than the Tanana. and
shallow draft boats can go further
up it."
"I the country, well mineralized?"
"Yes. there is more or less gold all
along the Kobuk. You can drive your
shovel almost anywhere into the gravel
of the creeks and find color. In 1913, a
nugget as big as my hand was brought
into the store at Kotzebue Sound and
traded for goods That nugget weighed
44 H ounces, and its actual value was
almost $1000. The miner who brought
it said he had found It when moving his
sluice boxes. He had it on his shovel
and had thrown it away with the other
rocks, when he noticed that the shovel
seemed heavy. He then went over to
where he had thrown the stuff and
found the nugget in the mud. He
washed the mud off and saw that the
lump was pure gold."
"Then your gold must be coarse?"
"Yes. it Is all free gold, some fine and
some coarse. We catch It in sluice
boxes and without quicksilver."
"Is there much mining being done?"
of cement, to insure perfect adhesion.
Forms for concrete, while they are
simply falsework , and afterward re
moved, should be securely built of
fairly good material. They should be
strong enough to hold the weight of
the concrete without bulging out of
shape. Plan them so there will be no
difficult measurements to understand,
and aim to use them over and over
again, as much as possible, which
greatly reduces their cost. They should
be adequately braced in sections best
adapted to the York, and in sizes that
are convenient to handle.
I nan re Perfeet Vestllatlon.
Proper ventilation is imperative. The
egg chambers of the incubator must
be generously supplied with fresh air
at all times, yet there should be no
risk of driving rains or direct cur
rents of air blowing on the machine.
The'windows are therefore fitted with
double sash, as shown, the inner sash
to open out and up. In this manner
a free circulation of air is established.
The windows are spaced about four
feet part. It is a good plan to
them with cellar-window wire or small
mesh netting, to exclude cats and other
marauders.
The roof lis framed with 2 by 4-inch
rafters, spaced about two: feet on cen
ters, overlaid by sheathing boards and
covered with a reliable grade of ready-to-lay
patent roofing; or. the rafters
may be shingle-lathed and a roof built
of shingles. The ceiling Joists are 2
by 4-inch material, secured to the
plates, which are "of similar material,
and spaced about two feet apart. The
loft space between the ceiling and the
under side of the roof should be ven
tilated in some way, either at 'the
gables or by a ventilator. If a half
story is built over the incubator cel
lar, this loft space makes a good stor
age room and a particularly suitable
place for drying and curing feathers.
Most mammoth incubators are heated
by coal-burning, hot-water furnaces,
consequently a chimney or flue of some
kind is required. A concrete chimney
may be built very easily, using terra
cotta tile flue lining for the inside
orm. and a wooden structure for the
outside form. Build the entrance steps
as shown, and provide a substantial,
generous door.
To estimate. Uie quantities of ingred
"We have a number -of prospectors
and miners who are working on the
creeks that flow Into the Koouk. There
are some also on the Squirrel and
Shungnak Rivers. I have a mining
property on Dahl Creek. In 1910 a
nugget was found there that was
worth 700. As to the gold of Arctic
Alaska our country is in the infancy of
its development. Many of the creeks
carry low-grade gravel that will some
day be dredged at a profit. We have
also good quartz in which you can see
the fine grains of gold with the naked
eye."
"What other minerals have you?"
"The oountry has never been pros
pected." replied Judge Moran. "It is
full of minerals, but no one knows
Just what there is nor the values. As
to copper, we have some large de
posits. Mr. Bradley, the. manager of
the great gold mines at Tread well, took
one option on a copper find near the
Kobuk River at a price of S400.000.
That was about 12 years ago. when
copper was low. The price continued
to decline and he finally gave up the
option. At the present time the de
posit could probably be 'mined at a
great profit. v.
"Among the other minerals we have
large deposits of asbestos, silver and
coal. Some of the silver is placer, and
can be washed from the streams. We
have also antimony and tungsten and a
Jade, which. It is believed, will com
mand .a high price in the market."
"Are the coal deposits of any value?"
"There is one mine on the Kobuk that
has supplied the local demand for the
past 18 years, and there are other beds
of fairly good coal near the Arctic
Ocean. There are some deposits near
Cape Lisburne that have been known
a long time. They were mentioned by
Henry D. Woolfe, who had worked in
them prior to the census of 1890. He
describes the coal as semi-bituminous,
and says it will make steam quickly,
although it has a large percentage or
ash. One of the deposits covers 25
square miles. It is also reported that
there Is a lake of oil and oil springs
northwest of Wainwright. The Gov
ernment has Ions known of an oil belt
there, but the region has not been sur
veyed nor prospected. In fact, no one
knows what we have in these far
northern parts of" Alaska. It may be
that the next great gold stampedelaWill
be to this region."
ients required for a concrete Job. which
will also give you an idea of the cost,
first figure tae cubical contents get
the actual volume or capacity of the
forms In cubic feet. Let this product
represent the quantity of crushed stone,
cinders or whatever is used for the
large aggregate. Then, if the desired
proportion or mixture for the concrete
is 1 2hi 5. since t Is one-half of
5. the necessary sand, or small aggre
gate, will be one-half of the large ag
gregate, ox crushed stone. Similarly,
the cement is one-fifth of the large
aggregate.
"J. Barleycorn' Named in Suit.
nwr.A Hnv riTY. Okla.. Jan. 14.
"John Barleycorn" was made co-respondent
in a divorce suit filed here
by Hazel Wadlow. seeking a separa
tion from her husbana. Charles Wad
low. The petition alleges that "'John
Barleycorn' has been an intimate asso
ciate of the defendant for three years
past, and has been" a frequent visitor
at the home, and at such times the de
fendant has been constantly with him."
Try This if You
Have ' Dandruf f
There is one sure way that never
falls to remove dandruff completely and
that fa to dissolve It. This destroys It
entirely. To do this,- Just get about
four ounces of plain, ordinary liquid
arvon; apply it at night when retiring:
use enough to moisten the scalp and
rub it in gently with the finger tips.
By morning most, if not all, of your
dandruff will be gone, and three or four
more applications will completely dis
solve and entirely destroy every-slngle
sign and trace of it, no matter how
much dandruff you may have.
You will find, too. that all itching
and digging of the scalp will stop in
stantly, and your hair will be fluffy,
lustrous, glossy, silky and soft, and
look and feel a hundred timed better.
You can get liquid arvon at any drug
store. It is inexpensive, and four ounces
is all you will need. This simple rem
edy has never been known to fall.
Adv.
4