THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 7, 1917. RIBBON SAILORS MARK POINT IN SPRING NEWNESS, AND NOTHING IS MORE CHIC New Fuzzy-Wuzzy Hat Also Is Exceedingly Smart Latest Models in Sport Hats Are Picturesque and Wide Range of Surprising Effects Are Achieved. I Wsrf "ti 4 fi . A ; ::::::::::::! , ,w ''f;l " vi v 2 I :::::::::::::::::::::::: I r , i hh 1 lhl??'f I ::::::::::::::$:::::: J ' :Vvr' 1 tifr'AtUl"1 ::::::I:::::::::::::: - Vr r ' 4 ::::::::::::::::::::J:i " " A ; ' ; -. ::::::::::::2 v , --. ' ,: ' V - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ' K, ,ffi::::::::::::::::: A X " v - - , r :::::::::::::: : XT - " v T VA f' " ."-v"' t:::"""::: I ' JTr, h ' f? - - '----'-:: 1 ' IJPJ Ji 111111111 I, ' AfAi Ni -' r :::M::;5:-i:i.-;.:::;5i T " ' x " H'? w t Jei ,7" .s - "il SO MANY other things than straw appear In the Spring hat that one Is not surprised at a whole hat made of ribbon; and these ribbon sail ors are newest of the new nothing is smarter for early wear with tailored street costumes. This hat has a straw brim; as for the rest, one sees nothing but black moire ribbon made into car tridge pleats for a trimming: ribbon fluted in more tiny pleats on the brim and projecting slightly over its edge in a dainty scallop effect. As a final touch, a bit of ribbon is tied Into a narrow bow, perched across the brim In front. There is the new fuzzy-wuzzy hat. made of a fuzzy fabric that is quite the rage this season, not only for whole hats, but also for hat trimmings. The cherries which trim it are made of straw. The shape is exceedingly smart, the bell crown rising from a curling brim that comes far down over the hair. The hat is In soft shades of blue with red and green straw fruit trim ming. Picturesque indeed are the new sport hats for southland wear, and all sorts of surprising effects have been achieved. After all, what is a sport hat, if not surprising, striking, and stunning? Shady also, to be sure, is our mushroom brim that dares to go to an extreme and hide milady's eyes. Over the hat, a fine white Milan, white faille matinee silk has been drawn in Answers to Correspondents BY LILIAN TINGLE. MOLALLA. Or., Dee. 2T. I am a constant reader of your column in tho paper and have received so much good out of your recipes that I am asking you for several. (1) Can you give me a recipe for Italian macaroni; (2) also, one for breakfast cafees made of buttermilk? (3 Can you tell me where in Portland I can buy Fannie Merrlt Farmer s cook book, and the price? I am almost a beginner in cooking and have trouble in combining foods; that is. I never know Juet what vege tables and desserts to serve with the dif ferent kinds of meats. 4) Can you recom mend a cook book for same. I will thank you many times for an early reply in The Sunday Oregonlan. Yours truly, MRS L. E. M. FOLLOWING Is a real Italian recipe for macaroni with tomato sauce. Tou must remember, however, that macaroni is served as a staple dish in Italy, and many are the varia tions in the sauce with which It is made palatable and "interesting:." Dur ing three months in Italy I ate maca roni or spaghetti at least once a day, and it was never twice exactly alike as regards flavor. Grated Parmesan cheese is usually passed with it. Frequently a hint of garlic (or, alas! often more than a "hint") is to be found in the sauce. The "tomato paste" referred to in the recipe is a "staple," too, with Italian housewives. I think It can generally be obtained at Italian grocery stores. The recipe given below is from an Ital ian friend; Maccheroni al sugo (Italian maca roni) Two quarts water, 9i pound macaroni (imported); boil the water until it makes big bubbles; add salt, break the macaroni and put it in. Cover the pan and boll 15 minutes. The pan should not be too small or the macaroni will stick to the bottom. .While it Is cooking prepare the sauce. Italian Tomato Sauce One good smoothly fitting lines and against the i white silk background are posed real- slice ham fat, one slice onion, one stalk celery, two sprigs parsley. Chop all very fine and put into a frying pan, cooking1 until the grease is colored. A small bit of butter may be added If de sired. When well colored add two tablespoons tomato paste dissolved in a little hot water. Boil all together tor about lo minutes. If no tomato paste is at hand, make the sauce as follows: Italian tomato sauce. No. 2 Chop very fine one-quarter of a medium large onion, one finger-length of cel ery, two or three basil leaves, three or four sprays of parsley. Cook in four tablespoons good olive oil or ham fat. adding seven or eight fresh or canned tomatoes with pepper and salt to taste. Cook until as thick as cream, then strain and use with the macaroni. When the macaroni is tender, drain and dash cold water over to prevent its becoming sticky. Shake all moisture from it and put into the frying pan with. the sauce. Mix well over the fire. using a spoon and fork so that the macaroni is thoroughly seasoned. Add three tablespoons grated parmesan cheese, mix again and serve, very hot, at once, passing grated parmesan cheese for those that desire more. Sometimes a little very strong meat gravy is added to the tomato sauce, For a quick American version of Italian macaroni, ' I find that a can of good undiluted tomato soup, sea soned with celery salt and grated par mesan cheese can be used as above with cooked macaroni with good re sults. For those that like it a slashed clove of garlic, stirred In with the sauce and carefully removed before serving, or cut and rubbed all over the frying pan, gives good "extra touch. A little chopped parsley may also be added. Any rather strong-flavored, , very dry cheese may be used if parmesan I lstic cat-tails made of brown velvet I and dull green ribbon. i. ,m.i,i v t,- .iit Beating makes bubbles and appears to Is not available, but the effect will not . L ; v . , . . ,, , . ., lr . , . , , tJ. . ., ,, I thicken the texture of the cake; stir be so good nor so 'Italian.' I , v..kki ,. lhis canned soup "Italian mac aroni is good for a chafing dish supper as all tne ingredients can be prepared Delorenand. 2. 'Buttermilk Pancakes. Two cups DuttermnK. two eggs, one-half tea- opuun iwo laoieapoons meiiea shortening, from one to five level umicspunns sugar to lasie (sugar may be omitted), about two and one- half cups flour. Sift the dry ingredi- ents, mix to a medium "pour batter" with the buttermilk and egg yolks, men 10m in ins sun Deaien egg whites, or beat the eggs all together as preierrea. look on a griddle in tne usual way. Be sure the buttermilk In using the "plain cake" recipe is well soured, but not bitter In flavor, given above you can economize a tiny Rice griddle cakes. Make as above, bit if you like by using sour milk or using two cuds of hot boiled rice and buttermilk if you happen to have it. In about two cups flour. Add one table- that case, in place of the baking pow spoon melted butter. der use one generous half level table Corn meal and rice griddle cakes spoon soda and a scant level teaspoon Make as above, using one-half cup cream of tartar (or slightly more cornmeal, one cup cold boiled rice, and about one-half cup flour, or as much as is needed to get a good "pour bat ter." Bread crumb griddle cakes Two cups bread crumbs, one cup flour, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one-half tea spoon salt, two cups buttermilk, two tablespoons melted butter, sugar to taste, one egg. Soak the crumbs in cold water; wring out all the water and beat the cru-nbs light, then mix with the flour and buttermilk and let stand overnight, . In the morning add the salt, the egg,, well-beaten, the shortening and the soda. Dissolve in one tablespoon water. A little more flour or buttermilk may be needed as the soaked crumbs are a rather "variable quantity" in determining the texture of the mixture. Add sugar, if liked. Beat well and bake on a griddle in the usual way. csunermiiK waines one and one- quarter cups flour, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon soda, one cup thick, well-soured buttermilk, two eggs, three tablespoons melted butter. Sift together the dry Ingredients. Make a smooth batter with the milk and I egg yolks. Add tha melted butter and fold in the stiff-beaten egg whites. Have both sides of the waffle iron hot and well greased. Put a good table spoon of batter into each compartment. Cover: cook first on one side, then o tne other. A little "knack" is required In waffle-baking, so don't be discouraged if your very first waffle looks (and tastes) more like an old-fashioned lamp mat than anything; edible. Breakfast corncake with buttermilk One-third cup shortening, one-half cup sugar, two small eggs (or one very large one), one cup buttermilk, one and one-quarter cups cornmeal. three-quarter cup flour, one-half tea spoon soda, one cup well-soured but termilk. Cream the shortening and sugar: beat In the yolks with the milk, add the cornmeal mixed with the flour. which has been sifted with the soda and salt. Add last the stiff-beaten egg whites. Bake in a hot. well- greased dripping pan or in muffin pans. xnree eggs will serve for double quantities of the other lngreditents. Entire Wheat Buttermilk Muffins- One cup white flour, one cup entire wheat flour, two tablespoons brown I sugar (or one tablespoon molasses),! yiree or four tablespoons melted ahort- I ening, three-fourths teaspoon salt, one! egg, three-fourths teaspoon soda, one- fourth teaspoon cream of tartar, about I one and one-fourth cups well-soured buttermilk, to make a good "drop bat ter." Sift the dry ingredients together. Beat the egg light and stir with the! milk smoothly into the dry ingredients. beating well afterwards. Beat in the shortening, and bake about 25 minutes in very hot, very well greased muffin pans. Miss Farmer's "Boston Cooking School Cook Book" can be ordered from any book store. I think it is carried in stock by the department stores and by the J. K. Gill Company. Tne price is $1.80, and the postage would prob-1 ably be about 10 cents. There is no "cook book that I know of that can guide you unfallibly in this matter. It is a question of study of knowing both the food values and the aesthetic values of your ma terials. You will find some sugges tions in the bulletin on "Planning and Serving Meals," which you can obtain from the Oregon Agricultural College. Feeding the Family," by Mary Swartz Rose, of Columbia University, (Macmillan Company) is a very valu able book for any housekeeper and will trive vou Just the sort of foundation information that you should have. If I you are responsible "for the ever-lm-1 portant "commissariat department. You will find it better tnan any cook book for this purpose. The cost is not more than, 2. I am glad you una tnis column helpful. OREGON CITT. Dec. 80. A friend iws t.Tlin. m nf tiirthriav eAlce she had Diece of which was Just as good to eat It wai In looks. It was a tnree-iayer. iwu white and one pink, and on each layer was a thick white K-lnit. tnen over mat a inicit i layer of tome kind of pineapple filling. I know about the coloring part. 1 have no recipe for Just three layers. My recipe lor white cake, even one-half to more than lor three Wavers. I don't know how much flll- ln It u-nuM take and don't know Just how the filling was made. Could I use the Juice from the pineapple, ana ould the grated be best, and wnat Kind or icing wouiu kj with that filling? Thanking you for your kindness In the past, I wish you a app New Year. aatta. w. I am afraid I can't help you, your description is so very vague. And how I can I tell the size of your cake pan. and how big a cake you want? Or how much or how little filling you prefer: Why not ask your friend to ask her friend for the original recipe; xou see. I have no means of knowing whether it was a rich or a plain white cake I foundation, and whether the pineapple filling you refer to was of the "mar-1 malade," marshmallow or "lemon pie f illiner." or Bavarian cream, or custard cream type, or whether it was simply chopped candied pineapple mixed with leintr Practically anv good white icing miirht be combined with pineapple in one way or another. As the sliced I pineapple is out of the question. I pre- I sume the pineapple must nave oeen either grated or chopped and probably the Juice was used either in tne irost- inir or in the filling, or in both. II am sorrv not to b able to help you. but I am not yet a perfect clairvoyant! and only a fairly good guesser. -wany thanks for your good wisnes. ome i to you. Write again. PORTLAND. Or.. . Dec 20. Will yon (1) Dlease publish a recipe for a butter cake for general use, one using about two eggs or so? (-) Also, pleaae tell me wnat makes a cake heavy, too much buttery (3) What 1 the difference between tne yolks? For Instance, a recipe which calls for four white, would two eggs do? I am not as successful with cake as I should like to be. Any Information concerning cake making will be appreciated by me. Thank ing you. MRS. P. C. P. Following is a useful plain cake with two eggs that can be baked either in layers or as a loaf or in small cups as may prove most convenient: Plain Cake One-third cup butter or one-fourth cup Crisco. one cup sugar (scant), (take one tablespoon level from'the full, level cup), two eggs, one- half cup milk or water, 1 V4 teaspoons baking powder, one-half teaspoon salt. 1V4 cups flour, flavoring ir liked. Cream the butter until nearly white. Beat in the sugar then the eggs, one at a time, with one tablespoon of the flour to keep the "creamed butter con sistency." beating very thoroughly be tween each egg; add the liquid In the same way with a little flour. Finally fold in the remaining flour. It is wise to have the flour warmed and sifted with the salt and baking powder on a sheet of paper. This makes the han dling easier and saves dishwashing. If bread flour must be used, take out. after measuring, one or two spoonfuls (according to its strength), and re place with a similar quantity of corn- starch. Use a flat-bowl" "wooden spoon for beating:. Do not "stir" the cake. thin the texture, so that you may even be tempted to add flour when none is necessary. If vou like vou can use a Ladd eee beater from the time you put in the first eBg to the time you are ready to fold fn the flour. It saves a little ef- fort in beating, but is one more thing to wash when your cake is done. if y0u use solid flavoring such as grated orange or lemon rind or ground sDlces. nut them in with the sugar or eggs. If youp use liquid extracts, put them in last. Bake by the "four-quarter rule" so frequently given in these columns. than one-half tablespoon soda and slightly less than one teaspoon cream of tartar. Heaviness in cakes may be due to any of the following: 1. vv rong proportions (too much butter, or sugar, or flour, or liquid). 2. Insufficient beating. 3. Too little baking powder. A more common fault, however. Is too much baking powder, which causes cakes to fall. 4. Wrong oven management. 5. . Chilling suddenly after removal from the oven. 3. The yolks contain some fatty material while the whites do not. The yolks are not exactly "half the egg," nor do they entangle as much air in beating as do the whites. Two whole eggs therefore, would not give at) ight a cake as would four whitest though In some recipes (but not all) such a substitution might give a quite good cake, though of different texture, If you are interested In cakemaking you might like to join the cake-baking class in the girls' school of trades, J which will besln March 6 (when eggs -oelt-Reduciks Back-Restin6 Self-Reducins . Three Distinct New Models for Three Distinct NEMO SELF-REDUCING with Auto-Massage QKK An entirely new form of the JtJ" famous Nemo Self-Reducing Corset. The girdle top is high at the front, and thus completely controls any superfluous flesh at the top. The semi -elastic Auto -Massage bands, directly under the end of the corset, in connection with the Self-Reducing Straps, support the abdomen and banish excess flesh quickly and permanently. Of fine white coutH. In $3.75 sues 22 to 36.. PLEASE NOTE obtainable again. Much higher Nemo prices are inevitable in the near future ; for we shall never lower the Nemo standard of quality, no matter how much we may be compelled to advance Nemo prices. OS SALE IN PRINCIPAL STORES EVERYWHERE Tha Nemo Hygienic-Fashion Institute, New York City IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT ADVANCED FROM JANUARY 1, 1917, THE STANDARD RETAIL PRICE OF Nemo Self-Reducing Corsets Nos. 402, 403 and 405 will be we hope will be lower In price). Tou pay for the materials used, but the teaching is free. iou may be interested in the follow ing inexpensive cakes sent in by corre spondents: Layer Cake (Mrs. II. S. H.) One- half cup butter, one cup sugar, two eggs, one-half cup sweet milk, two cups flour, two teaspoons baking pow der, one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon vanilla. Cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs, well beaten, then the milk, then the flour, with the baking powder and salt previously sifted into It; lastly the vanilla. This makes three thin layers or two thick layers. We prefer the three thin layers, as we like tilling and cake, especially with the following filling: Apple Filling One egg, one cup sugar, three apples (rather large ones), one lemon. Pare the apples and grate them; also grate the rind of the lemon and extract the juice. Beat the egg and the sugar together, add the grated apple and the grated rind and juice of the lemon. Cook over a very slow fire until it is thick, stirring often. When it is cool, spread between the layers of cake. Mrs. H. S. II. says of the apple layer cake: "It is not necessary to use any icing on the top layer, but sometimes I put on a white icing, the one most convenient to make at the time. This rather tart filling is a most delightful change from the usual sweet filling of a layer cake and is a great favorite in our family." One-Egg Cake (Mrs. J. A. P.) One egg, one cup sugar, one large table spoon butter, one cup milk, two cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, flavoring; cream butter, add sugar, which has been sifted twice before; add yelk of egg next without beating; alternately add milk and flour (In which baking powder has been sifted) lastly add the stiffly beaten white of egg. With a cocoanut icing this makea a nice cake for birthdays which come In Winter, when eggs are high. I have to thank Mr. F. K.. J. for a can of very delicious Italian "Ravioli.' which I greatly enjoyed. My Lents correspondent who inquired about "Ra violi" can have the name of this canned product by writing to me again and in closing a stamped self-addressed en velope. In my recent reply about "Ravioli' I note that one of my pages of "copy' was dropped, somehow, so that the "Ravioli"' appeared in print somewhat Incoherently as being "filled with Jam. There are sweet "Kavioli" filled with m or fruit, but more often they are lied with savory mixtures of vegeta bles, or meat, or fish, or cheese. I have several different recipes. Little Facts for Your Scrapbook. Mechanism whereby the music of a piano and phonograph can be com bined has been patented by a New Jer sey inventor. A newspaper In a Brazilian town 2000 miles from the mouth of the Ama zon gets its telegraphic news by wire less. Several French lighthouses have been equipped witn lenses that enable their lights to be seen from 50 to 60 mllee at sea. A mixture of iron fibers, sand and ce ment is being used experimentally In France as a top dressing for highways. Numerous economies are claimed for a new automobile that can be run by gasoline or electricity or a combination of the two. Oil obtained from the seeds of Bra zilian rubber trees has been found an acceptable substitute for linseed oil by British palntmakera. INTRODUCTORY $ALE sssssEsssssassscsB8SEsasaM.i urn mnmsaaBsmi n n 1 1 msiii in zjvzy To flintiest Development in (orvS et Service NEMO BACK-RESTING with Auto-Massage OAQ The Back-Resting invention prevents and relieves back ache by supporting tired muscles. It induces correct poise and an erect carriage. The welt Vnown and proved Auto Massage ,-ention automatically does the work of a skilled masseuse in materially reducing the size and weight of the figure, and gives effective abdominal support. Low top and long skirt. Light, but strong con til; graduated front steels. jo rrr Sizes 20 to 30 O.0U 22 ! THESE PRICES ARE BASED UPON OLD COST PRICES OF MATERIAL Equal values may never be Double-Choker Style Wrap Is Paisley Model. Moat Admired Models Hare Straight Llaes From Neck to Kite and Wide. Ilathrr Square Sleeves. rn O BE entirely smart, the paisley I wrap must demonstrate by its lines that It is a bona fide modern creation, despite Its ancient material. Any compromise with antiquity, such as draping the costly shawl In such manner that cuttlng-up of the material will be avoided, is frowned upon by Dame Fashion. The heirloom must frankly admit that it has been given over to the tender mercies of a skilled couturier, and slashed and ripped with fine disregard for value, to emerge a stunning coat of modern style. The most admired models have straight lines from neck to knee, and wide, rather square sleeves, coat and sleeves being edged deeply with kolin sky, mink or seal and. of course, a square collar of the fur spreads over the shoulders, rising in double choker style about the throat. Such a wrap cannot possibly be mistaken for a shawl artfully redraped into a coat; and, after all, its wonderful paisley coloring and weave are quite as beautiful to a modern taste in a 6inartly cut, fur-bordered coat, as they were in the ancient square, which was hung over the figure in a cumbersome shawl. Many smart motor coats are to be seen, worn temporarily as a traveling wrap, or carried over the arm of maid or footman and disposed of In the drawing-room compartment with the southbound hand luggage. It is sur prising how many of these coats are of the new material, pontine, which made its entree into polite society only a few months ago. A stunning material it Is, with Its glossy, waxed outer surface and its in ner surface of soft silk or satin some times of cloth. And the colors are wonderful. Pontine coats with borders of fur are especially in favor, and since this material is warm, as well as light and sheds water as successfully as any actual leather coat fabric. It is much in demand for motoring wraps. One of the handsomest pontine coats of the season is worn by Mme. Pavlowa and was designed for her by a great couturier. The coat falls In full rip ples below a graceful crossed sash girdle and Is edged at the foot with a broad band of beaver, matching the beaver collar and deep cuffs. Icelanders In America. TKe first colony of Icelanders to e tabllsh themselves on the American continent arrived at Lake Rosseau Au gust 30, 1872. and there began the pio neer Canadian settlement of their peo pie. This was the beginning of a con siderable immigration of Icelanders to America. The first party consisted of more than 150 men, women and chil dren, but only about a dozen families settled in the Canadian colony. The remainder scattered over Canada and a few went on to Wisconsin. Since then thousands of Icelanders perhaps in spired by the old Icelandic sagas of Eric the Red. whose eon Leif is said to have voyaged to America five centuries before Columbus have emigrated to America, most of them settling in Western Canada and the Northwestern states. They have made sturdy, intel I II Kent natrlotlc citizens. Vihliamar IStefansson. the distinguished evjtloier, RESETS Economy Real Economy All cor Bet materials now cost from tS to over JOO more than in 1911; yet these three corset represent val ues greater than those of two years ago. To mxplain this aem ing paradox; We still have some ma terial bovght at the old low prices, and are giving you the benefit of this saving. To buy now is to prac tice genuine economy. Nemo Service STYLE These cor sets produce the exact individual fashion -lines indicated Jor the Spring modes. HEALTH The ex clusive Nemo Back Resting, Self-Reducing and Auto-Massage features give a health and comfort service worth even more than the corset itself . These cost you nothingextra, nor can you get them in any other corset at any price. Types of Full Figure NEMO SELF-REDUCING with Back-Resting 40R '3 nappy combination of an improved Self-Reducing service with the new Back-Resting invention completely controls ab domen, hips and back, and produces a symmetrically reduced form. No. 408 has the modish low top and long skirt, producing an up-to-date fashion effect that no ordinary corset can give. It is a perfect model for the average full figure. Fine white'coutil, sizes to 36 $4.00 RETAIL PRICES ! comm of Iceland stock, his parents having emigrated from Iceland and settled in Manitoba a year or two be fore Vihljamar was born In 1ST9. Chicago Journal. AVliat Colors Dyes Produce. It Is a help for the beginning dyer to know something of the results which various colors will produce: Blue over brown produces dark seal brown. Ulue over purple produces dark plum. Blue over green produces bluish green. Blue over yellow produces green. Blue over red produces purple. Light blue over green produces pea cock blue. Light blue over pink produces lav ender. Cardinal over navy blue produce light purple. Maroon over dark green produces plum.' Maroon over navy blue produces dark purple. Red over dark green produces black. Red over orange produces scarlet. Red over green produces brown. Red over lavender produces wine. Red over blue produces purple. Yellow over red produces scarlet. Yellow over blue produces green. Tellow over green produces light green. Yellow over brown produces golden brown. Mines of some descriptions are found in -6 of the 31 states and territories in Mexico, and mining is the most productive Industry of the country. Baby's Face Disfigured With Eczema Scales. Itched and She Would Scratch. Spread Over Side of Face. Cuticura Healed in Four Weeks. Above are extracts from a signed statement recently re ceived from Airs. C. E. Out land, 351 Leggett Avenue Barnesville, Ohio. . If Cuticura did no more than soothe and heal eczemas, rashes, itchings and burnings, bringing speedy comfort to tortured, dis figured men, women and children it would be entitled to the highest praise. But it does more. By using the Soap exclusively for toilet purposes, allowing no other soap to touch your skin, with touches of Cuticura Ointment now and then to soothe and heal the first sign of skin troubles, you will in many cases prevent these dis tressing experiences. It is always a pleasure, not an effort, to use them, they are so pure and delicate. For Trial Free by Return Mail ad dress post-card : "Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." Suld tarouchout the world.