The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, December 10, 1916, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 67

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tions as described is very apt to be
JENNY FROCK, DRAPED IN APRON FASHION,
IS PRETTY PARISIAN MODEL FOR DANCING
doubled and thus end in complete
WOMEN OF MANY PARTS OF WORLD WIN
PROMINENCE BY THEIR MANY ACTIVITIES
disaster to the side making it.
If second bidder has doubled either
a no-trump or a suit bid. fourth Did
der overcalla in. the first case with
'two no trumps," or two of his long
est suit, according to the character
of his hand, and as in his judgment
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Apron Motif Is Particularly Stylish and One Creation Is in Silver Embroidered Drapery at Back - and Front.
' Touch of Fur Adds 'Beauty to Semi-Formal Dance Gown.
French Countess Comes to America to Raise Money for War Widows and Another Seeks Aid for Blind Soldiers.
Nancy Keen Perkins to Be Bride of Field Heir. '
seems best; m the second case, with a
no trump if holding a stopper in the
adverse suit and some outside strength;
otherwise, with two of his longest
suit. If his strength is such that, in
connection with his partner's hand, a
better score seems assured by letting
the double stand, and it be not the
rubber game, he may do so. In such
case there is always the danger, how
ever, that the adversaries may chance
the bid, so the policy would be un
wise unless one were prepared to
double any bid to which they might
shift.
M- -
The double of "one no trump" or a
one-trick suit bid. made by the dealer
or his partner, applies equally to fourth
bidder, as to second, under similar conditions.
THE - STTXDAT. OltEGONIAN. POKTLATTO, DECEMBER 10, 1916.
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ONE of the prettiest Paris models
for dancing wear is a Jenny frock
of Du Barry pink faille matinee,
draped in apron fashion at front and
back, and with puffed panniers at the
sides, lifted to show a petticoat of gold
lace flounces. Appliques of Nattier blue
velvet ribbon, embroidered in pale pink
cilk (lowers' are laid ag-ainst leaf em
broidery done with gold thread. The
Kauzy sleeves of flesh pink chiffon sug
gest concealment of the arm, but re
veal the lines of shoulder and arm
most gracefully.
The apron motif is particularly fash
ionable this season, and is used in one
model in silver embroidered drapery at
back and front. Silver embroidery ap
pears also on the bodice and festoons
of tiny pink and silver roses trail
down the hips along a floating drapery
of the chiffon. The frock is in a deli
cate flesh pink tone, most exquisite
with the glint of silver in the em-
broidery and roses. A ready-made
model of exclusive type this, made of
beat materials and silk sewed through
out. A dainty frock for afternoon dancing
or for dinner dance wear at an occa
sion where full evening costume is not
demanded is a golden brown silk net
draped over soiree silk of the same
hade. Brown velvet ribbon and seal
fur complete a seasonable color scheme
for all the brown tones are exceed
ingly fashionable this Winter. There
are touches of gold embroidery on the
bodice and the golden yrown chiffon is
laid over flesh pink tulle across shoul
ders and bust. Flesh pink silk stock
ings and glazed kid dancing slippers
accompany the frock.
Worn Linien Tablecloths May
Be Cut Into Napkins.
Initial Can Re Worked Into Corner
of Each It Cloth Seems Strong
Knough to Warrant It.
TURE linen damask is soaring to
such dizzy heights in cost now
with a prospect of soaring still further
that it in the part of wisdom to util
ize every scrap in one's possession.
Linen tablecloths that saow badly-worn
places may be cut up for tea napkins,
the best parts around the edge being
taken for 12-inch hemstitched squares.
These squares should be cut carefully
by a -drawn thread and an inch and a
half allowed on each side for t.ie hem.
Draw six or seven threads and put in
a double hemstitch, taking up the same
Trroup of threads at opposite sides of
the drawn space. An initial may be
worked in the corner of eacli tea nap
kin if the linen seems strong enough
to warrant the extra trouble. Of
course, with linen as high as it is just
now. no good housewife will neglect the
mending of her tablecloths the moment
thin places appear. Darning a table
clot;i is a delicate operation and should
not be attempted, carelessly or hur
riedly.
Stretch the linen over small embroid
ery hoops and use very fine mercerized
cotton and as fine a needle as possible
for the work. Some women can darn
table linen bo that the repairing is al
most invisible, after the cloth has been
jctiqnBrido
1 BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY.
BY the time it Is fourth bidder's
ture to make an announcement,
he has heard from the three other
players and his course should be com
paratively easy.
If all three have passed and he, too,
Is weak,, he also should pass. In such
case the hand is thrown up and- the
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laundered and pressed, but the darning I
must be done the moment a thin spot I
ppears before a liole has developed I
deal passes to the player next in turn
to deal.
The rules given for third bidder ap
ply equally to fourth, bidder under
similar conditions.
If the dealer bids "one -no trump,"
and second and third players pass,
fourth player, if holding an estab
lished or nearly established five-card
suit, though little else, should gener
ally call the suit. - Even though- the
or the darning threads will so blur
the damask pattern that the effect will
be entirely obvious. v
suit be a minor, one with but little
chance of winning the game, such bid
directs the partner, what to lead in
case the dealer goes back to no trumps,
and often saves the game. This bid
is especially important at the rubber
game when every effort should be
directed towards saving the game, if
there is no chance of winning it.
If the dealer bids a no trump, second
player two of a suit, and third player
"two no trumps," fourth bidder should
be exceedingly cautious about raising
his partner's bid, though he hold the
conventional number of tricks usually
justifying the raise. The cases are
rare where a three-trick suit bid wins
against a no trumper made by one
adversary and supported by his part
ner. Besides, if it be not the rubber
samea. bid-of thia value-under condi
Subsequent Bidding:.
So much has already been said in
connection with the policy of the vari
ous bidders in regard to inferences,
and their bearing upon a player's sub
sequent bidding, that it is unnecessary
to say much additional on the subject.
If a player's bid has been on the
minimum strength only' of the hand.
he would rarely be justifiable in in
creasing the bid save to the . score
when, as has been explained, one may
to a certain extent overbid the hand.
Better in such case that the Increase
come from the partner.
If players iwold form the habit of
counting their losing as well as their
winning tricks, and not be so carried
away by 'an apparently glittering array
of high cards or trumps, there would
be fewer fiascos at auction and the
bidding and the game generally would
be on a sounder and more rational
basis. Take, for instance, a hand like
the following: ace, king, queen, 7. 6,
4 and 2 of spades; 8 of hearts; 5 and
2 of diamonds; 7, 5 and 4 of clubs. At
first glance it would almost seem that
the spade bid could be carried to an
indefinite figure, but let us consider.
Assuming that every spade will win.
there are but seven winning tricks
in the hand; six losing ones. 'Beyond a
certain figure, therefore, save to the
score, it would be folly to carry the
bid. To be sure such h"''. In conjunc
tion with the partnei night result
in an exceptionally hig) core; it might
even happen that the singleton heart
and one or more diamonds or clubs
could be discarded on winning cards
of his- To raise the bid on any such
gamble, however, would be entirely at
variance with the principles of sane
or sound bidding, and if the practice
were continued would eventually end
in total disaster. In such a case the
increase, if any, should be left to the
partner, who on the. assumption that
we are good for as many tricks as the
bid represents, will raise as many
times as his hand warrants.
The Adversaries' Play.
When the bidding and. all prelimi
naries have been settled, the player to
the left of the highest bidder, other
wise known as the "declarant," leads
to the first trick. Thereupon, the de
clarant's partner, known as "dummy,"
who has no say whatever as to the play
of the hand, places his cards, carefully
sorted as to value, face upwards upon
the table and the declarant plays the
hand in conjunction with his own. As
the general scheme of play at a trump
and at no trumps is entirely aissimnar,
I will consider first the adversaries
play at a declared trump.
What is known as tne dook, mat is.
the number of tricks the adversaries
nrrust take before their tricks begin to
score, is determined by subtracting the
number of tricks the declarant has bid,
from 13, for instance, if the bid is, say.
three hearts, the contract is to take
in all nine tricks. Four tricks, there
fore, represent the adversaries' book.
When these four tricks have been se
cured, they close them, just as the
declarant closes his book when he se
cures six tricks (this number always
representing the declarant's book) and
every trick taken thereafter scores 50
points; at a doubled declaration, 100
points; at a redoubled, 200.
The first lead is known as the "blind
lead," inasmuch as it is made before the
dummy hand is exposed. The adver
saries, no less than the declarant,
should carefully note dummy's hand
and take advantage of it in every way
possible. The controlling motive of
the adversaries play throughout is to
defeat the contract and secure penal
ties. One's first inference, naturally,
is that the declarant has more than
the average number of cards in the
suit he has declared and is correspond
ingly short in' one or more of the other
suits. Because of this, and the danger
that he may be able to discard what
card or cards he may hold of short
suits, and thus be in a position to
trump the suits when led, we should
aim to make our high cards early in
the game, before such contingency has
the chance to develop.
Undoubtedly the best suit to lead is
one containing the two master cards,
ace and king. If holding ace, king
only, ace should be led; if more, king.
In either case, we hold the leadi for
the second round, when, guided, by
dummy and at times the fill to the
first round, we may lead the remain
ing high card of the suit; a singleton,
if we hold one; the suit partner has
indicated, or resort to any expedient
that promises- to the best combined in
terests. Next to the lead from an ace-king
combination, a singleton lead is-perhaps
the best lead. If partner wins
the trick and returns the lead, we are
enabled to trump and thus save one or
more of our small trumps. In the
greater number of cases the declarant's
policy, as soon as securing a lead, will
be to lead and exhaust us of trumps.
Any trumps, therefore, that we may
save are just so many tricks gained.
The proper first and second leads.
with the inferences they convey, will be
discussed' in the next issue.
The following incident, though hav
ing reference to whist play, will never
theless appeal to the majority of auc
tion players:
Scene: Rooms of a prominent whist
club in the days when whist held su
premacy. Four men playing lucky
whist. North leads his fourth high
heart. His partner, a. Jolly fat man.
piayed ace from ace. queen and one
small. He chuckled aloud as he caught
the lone king from the player sitting
west. After- the deal was finished, the
man who lost his lone king looked
puzzled. Finally he asked: "Don't you
finesse the queen on your partner's
original lead when you hold ace, queen
and a little one?
"Not always." was the reply. "It de
pends on cirks."
"Oirks? Oh. yes. You mean circum
stances, or developments of the play?"
"Just so."'
"Under what circumstances do you
refuse to finesse on such a. combina
tion as you had?"
"When I catch the lone king to my
left."
"And what system, may I ask, do you
follow in making such a play?" contin
ued the man who had lost his lone
monarch, with'a look of pity and a tone
of disgust.
"Oh. .we call that the "rubber-neck
system: an old system, my boy; and
one that gains many a trick' from, your
book players."
Keeping Sandwiches.
It's often necessary.
They must be made up early.
And they dry and curl so soon.
Yet they are very easily kept good.
They should simply be placed in an
earthen receptacle.
This earthen affair, is covered and
set in a pan of cold water.
In this way they will keep for hours
as fresh as when first" made.
Candidates who
lot of experience.
"also ran"' acquire 4
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THE Countess do Montagnac has
come to America to raise money
for the war widows of Frarce.
She Jias brought with her a collection
of-" rare laces contributed by French
women to sell for their benefit.
Winifred Holt, a New York woman.
hsa returned from Paris to raise money
for the support of the "Phare de
France" or "Lighthouse" for the blind,
which she established there. Since
the beginning of the war the "Light
houses" at Paris, Bordeaux and other
cities established under the plans of
Miss Holt have cared for 300 blind
and 3000 partly blind French soldiers.
Mrs. Charles-R. Dillingham, the wife
of the well-known theatrical manager,
is a devotee of society and is a New
port News visitor in Summer, while
in the Spring and Fall she is seen fre
quently at the horse shows on Long
Island. She is a particular chum of
FRENCH DRESSING IS EASILY
MADE IF THINGS ARE HANDY
Table Set Is Offered for Those Who Do Not Like Boarding-House Mixture
and Prefer to Make Their Own.
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' PRESENTABLE FRENCH DRESSING SET.
SOME people prefer to mix their own
French dressslng at the table be
cause no other dressing is quite
equal to theirs; other folk prefer to
mix their dressing at the table because
they are among the unfortunates who
board and most salad dressings mixed
in. -boarding-house kitchens are either!
Insipid, or so strong wnn vinegar mat
the flavor is completely spoiled.
for - the ' convenience ' of- such -ealad
Mrs. Reginald Vanderbilt. Mrs. Dilling
ham is often seen on the ice. at the
Hippodrome, where society teas are
given every Sunday.
The tide of tourist travel is turning
toward the West and Pacific ships are
reported booked full of Americans who
want to travel and who cannot go to
Europe. Those who go to Australia will I
be interested in "seeing the natives of
that country and they will be fortunate
if they run across a Maori girl. The
Maoris are a fine race physically, but
mixers the dainty little - Individual
French dressing set pictured, is offered.
In cut glass and beaten silver the set
should be an attractive addition to any
table, and will not take up much space.
The glass-stoppered bottle is for vine
gar, the little Jar for French mustard.
Salt, black pepper and paprika will so
Into the square, metal-topped bottles.
And here is the correct, recipe for
French - dressing;" made' at the table.
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the feminine type does not realize as
a rule our idea of beauty.
Nancy Keen Perkins is to be married
to Henry Kleld. grandson of ManihA.l
Field, of Chloo, and one of the heits
to his milltrns. Miss Perkins is a
daughter of Mrs. T. Moncure Perkins,
who was one of the Langhorne sisters
of Virginia a'.d niece of Mrs. Charles
Dana Gibson. Mrs. W. W. Astor and
Mrs. Reginald Brooks. She has been
visiting at Mrt Gibson's home in New
York.
Mrs. Mary Davis is 80 years old, but
she is playing a part regularly in "Old
Lady 31." Rachel Crothers' new play,
in which Emma Dunn is starring. No
makeup could be as realistic an is
nature with "Granny," the part which
Mrs. Davis plays. Mrs. Davis was with
J. Wilkes Booth at one time and dur
ing the Grant administration she was
with Charlotte Cushman.
Pour out a tablespoonful of claret vine
gar, stir a tiny bit of mustard in with
a fork and add salt and paprika or
pepper if you prefer and shake the
mixture over the leaves of lettuce on
your plate. Two tablespoonf uls of oil
will improve the dressing for some, but
without oil and with plenty of paprika
and a. trine of mustard the dressing is
Just right for others.
Xo Wonder They Left.
'A correspondent who wishes to be
known as Hick has traveled as far as
Chicago, of late, and he tells us of an
incident that occurred in a South
Clark-street restaurant. We understand
that South Clark street is one of the
well-known thoroughfares of that
town.
In the restaurant referred to, a few
nights ago, these two lines appeared in
juxtaposition on the bill of fare:
"Bankers' Special Steak Dinner, 35c"
"Special Chicken Dinner 40c."
And these two dinners seemed very
popular on the evening in question. A
well-dressed middle-aged gentleman
entered the dining-room escorting a
lovely young lady of 20 Summers and
no visible Winters. Just as the hand
some couple stepped onto the floor, the
sweet-voiced waitress sang out an or
der to the cook:
"One banker ana one chicken!"
The young lady and her escort re
fused to be seated, but left in a high
dudgeon and a taxicab. Cleveland
Plain Dealer.
New friends and old enemies are not
above suspicion.
"URIC ACID
NEVER CAUSED
RHEUMATISM"
I WANT to pror It to your mm
faction. If you bave Rheumttlim
oi Neuritis, acute or chronic no
matter what your condition writ
to-day for my FRL BOOK on
'RHEUMATISM Ita Cauaa and
Cure." Thousands calltt "Toe moat
wonderful book ever written." Don't
end a stamp it's ABSOLVTLLY
FREE. JESSE A. CASE
lept. 16
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