& . tions as described is very apt to be JENNY FROCK, DRAPED IN APRON FASHION, IS PRETTY PARISIAN MODEL FOR DANCING doubled and thus end in complete WOMEN OF MANY PARTS OF WORLD WIN PROMINENCE BY THEIR MANY ACTIVITIES disaster to the side making it. If second bidder has doubled either a no-trump or a suit bid. fourth Did der overcalla in. the first case with 'two no trumps," or two of his long est suit, according to the character of his hand, and as in his judgment ' 1 Apron Motif Is Particularly Stylish and One Creation Is in Silver Embroidered Drapery at Back - and Front. ' Touch of Fur Adds 'Beauty to Semi-Formal Dance Gown. French Countess Comes to America to Raise Money for War Widows and Another Seeks Aid for Blind Soldiers. Nancy Keen Perkins to Be Bride of Field Heir. ' seems best; m the second case, with a no trump if holding a stopper in the adverse suit and some outside strength; otherwise, with two of his longest suit. If his strength is such that, in connection with his partner's hand, a better score seems assured by letting the double stand, and it be not the rubber game, he may do so. In such case there is always the danger, how ever, that the adversaries may chance the bid, so the policy would be un wise unless one were prepared to double any bid to which they might shift. M- - The double of "one no trump" or a one-trick suit bid. made by the dealer or his partner, applies equally to fourth bidder, as to second, under similar conditions. THE - STTXDAT. OltEGONIAN. POKTLATTO, DECEMBER 10, 1916. 1 r' 1 I ' V.-"- ' Y ' f ' V ; V-,?'- . ,j JLJ , sT" 'U - J fxz'' X , ' ! ( - ; ' f - 'If' ?-!-'- i t ' ' ' I ONE of the prettiest Paris models for dancing wear is a Jenny frock of Du Barry pink faille matinee, draped in apron fashion at front and back, and with puffed panniers at the sides, lifted to show a petticoat of gold lace flounces. Appliques of Nattier blue velvet ribbon, embroidered in pale pink cilk (lowers' are laid ag-ainst leaf em broidery done with gold thread. The Kauzy sleeves of flesh pink chiffon sug gest concealment of the arm, but re veal the lines of shoulder and arm most gracefully. The apron motif is particularly fash ionable this season, and is used in one model in silver embroidered drapery at back and front. Silver embroidery ap pears also on the bodice and festoons of tiny pink and silver roses trail down the hips along a floating drapery of the chiffon. The frock is in a deli cate flesh pink tone, most exquisite with the glint of silver in the em- broidery and roses. A ready-made model of exclusive type this, made of beat materials and silk sewed through out. A dainty frock for afternoon dancing or for dinner dance wear at an occa sion where full evening costume is not demanded is a golden brown silk net draped over soiree silk of the same hade. Brown velvet ribbon and seal fur complete a seasonable color scheme for all the brown tones are exceed ingly fashionable this Winter. There are touches of gold embroidery on the bodice and the golden yrown chiffon is laid over flesh pink tulle across shoul ders and bust. Flesh pink silk stock ings and glazed kid dancing slippers accompany the frock. Worn Linien Tablecloths May Be Cut Into Napkins. Initial Can Re Worked Into Corner of Each It Cloth Seems Strong Knough to Warrant It. TURE linen damask is soaring to such dizzy heights in cost now with a prospect of soaring still further that it in the part of wisdom to util ize every scrap in one's possession. Linen tablecloths that saow badly-worn places may be cut up for tea napkins, the best parts around the edge being taken for 12-inch hemstitched squares. These squares should be cut carefully by a -drawn thread and an inch and a half allowed on each side for t.ie hem. Draw six or seven threads and put in a double hemstitch, taking up the same Trroup of threads at opposite sides of the drawn space. An initial may be worked in the corner of eacli tea nap kin if the linen seems strong enough to warrant the extra trouble. Of course, with linen as high as it is just now. no good housewife will neglect the mending of her tablecloths the moment thin places appear. Darning a table clot;i is a delicate operation and should not be attempted, carelessly or hur riedly. Stretch the linen over small embroid ery hoops and use very fine mercerized cotton and as fine a needle as possible for the work. Some women can darn table linen bo that the repairing is al most invisible, after the cloth has been jctiqnBrido 1 BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY. BY the time it Is fourth bidder's ture to make an announcement, he has heard from the three other players and his course should be com paratively easy. If all three have passed and he, too, Is weak,, he also should pass. In such case the hand is thrown up and- the ' xf ylf IP Jiff tSy v Ji i f trS Hsu-' -pW ; ' y . lA 8? -: iv i : ff ',r4ii -1 . : I 1 , v " if ; . ; HiHiiVaHMiVTIt lmrlTim,liiiit,iri m J- " :;":;:i:.:j-aivrtiffwriiii iMiliiiiiiTniiiiiMiiinMi laundered and pressed, but the darning I must be done the moment a thin spot I ppears before a liole has developed I deal passes to the player next in turn to deal. The rules given for third bidder ap ply equally to fourth, bidder under similar conditions. If the dealer bids "one -no trump," and second and third players pass, fourth player, if holding an estab lished or nearly established five-card suit, though little else, should gener ally call the suit. - Even though- the or the darning threads will so blur the damask pattern that the effect will be entirely obvious. v suit be a minor, one with but little chance of winning the game, such bid directs the partner, what to lead in case the dealer goes back to no trumps, and often saves the game. This bid is especially important at the rubber game when every effort should be directed towards saving the game, if there is no chance of winning it. If the dealer bids a no trump, second player two of a suit, and third player "two no trumps," fourth bidder should be exceedingly cautious about raising his partner's bid, though he hold the conventional number of tricks usually justifying the raise. The cases are rare where a three-trick suit bid wins against a no trumper made by one adversary and supported by his part ner. Besides, if it be not the rubber samea. bid-of thia value-under condi Subsequent Bidding:. So much has already been said in connection with the policy of the vari ous bidders in regard to inferences, and their bearing upon a player's sub sequent bidding, that it is unnecessary to say much additional on the subject. If a player's bid has been on the minimum strength only' of the hand. he would rarely be justifiable in in creasing the bid save to the . score when, as has been explained, one may to a certain extent overbid the hand. Better in such case that the Increase come from the partner. If players iwold form the habit of counting their losing as well as their winning tricks, and not be so carried away by 'an apparently glittering array of high cards or trumps, there would be fewer fiascos at auction and the bidding and the game generally would be on a sounder and more rational basis. Take, for instance, a hand like the following: ace, king, queen, 7. 6, 4 and 2 of spades; 8 of hearts; 5 and 2 of diamonds; 7, 5 and 4 of clubs. At first glance it would almost seem that the spade bid could be carried to an indefinite figure, but let us consider. Assuming that every spade will win. there are but seven winning tricks in the hand; six losing ones. 'Beyond a certain figure, therefore, save to the score, it would be folly to carry the bid. To be sure such h"''. In conjunc tion with the partnei night result in an exceptionally hig) core; it might even happen that the singleton heart and one or more diamonds or clubs could be discarded on winning cards of his- To raise the bid on any such gamble, however, would be entirely at variance with the principles of sane or sound bidding, and if the practice were continued would eventually end in total disaster. In such a case the increase, if any, should be left to the partner, who on the. assumption that we are good for as many tricks as the bid represents, will raise as many times as his hand warrants. The Adversaries' Play. When the bidding and. all prelimi naries have been settled, the player to the left of the highest bidder, other wise known as the "declarant," leads to the first trick. Thereupon, the de clarant's partner, known as "dummy," who has no say whatever as to the play of the hand, places his cards, carefully sorted as to value, face upwards upon the table and the declarant plays the hand in conjunction with his own. As the general scheme of play at a trump and at no trumps is entirely aissimnar, I will consider first the adversaries play at a declared trump. What is known as tne dook, mat is. the number of tricks the adversaries nrrust take before their tricks begin to score, is determined by subtracting the number of tricks the declarant has bid, from 13, for instance, if the bid is, say. three hearts, the contract is to take in all nine tricks. Four tricks, there fore, represent the adversaries' book. When these four tricks have been se cured, they close them, just as the declarant closes his book when he se cures six tricks (this number always representing the declarant's book) and every trick taken thereafter scores 50 points; at a doubled declaration, 100 points; at a redoubled, 200. The first lead is known as the "blind lead," inasmuch as it is made before the dummy hand is exposed. The adver saries, no less than the declarant, should carefully note dummy's hand and take advantage of it in every way possible. The controlling motive of the adversaries play throughout is to defeat the contract and secure penal ties. One's first inference, naturally, is that the declarant has more than the average number of cards in the suit he has declared and is correspond ingly short in' one or more of the other suits. Because of this, and the danger that he may be able to discard what card or cards he may hold of short suits, and thus be in a position to trump the suits when led, we should aim to make our high cards early in the game, before such contingency has the chance to develop. Undoubtedly the best suit to lead is one containing the two master cards, ace and king. If holding ace, king only, ace should be led; if more, king. In either case, we hold the leadi for the second round, when, guided, by dummy and at times the fill to the first round, we may lead the remain ing high card of the suit; a singleton, if we hold one; the suit partner has indicated, or resort to any expedient that promises- to the best combined in terests. Next to the lead from an ace-king combination, a singleton lead is-perhaps the best lead. If partner wins the trick and returns the lead, we are enabled to trump and thus save one or more of our small trumps. In the greater number of cases the declarant's policy, as soon as securing a lead, will be to lead and exhaust us of trumps. Any trumps, therefore, that we may save are just so many tricks gained. The proper first and second leads. with the inferences they convey, will be discussed' in the next issue. The following incident, though hav ing reference to whist play, will never theless appeal to the majority of auc tion players: Scene: Rooms of a prominent whist club in the days when whist held su premacy. Four men playing lucky whist. North leads his fourth high heart. His partner, a. Jolly fat man. piayed ace from ace. queen and one small. He chuckled aloud as he caught the lone king from the player sitting west. After- the deal was finished, the man who lost his lone king looked puzzled. Finally he asked: "Don't you finesse the queen on your partner's original lead when you hold ace, queen and a little one? "Not always." was the reply. "It de pends on cirks." "Oirks? Oh. yes. You mean circum stances, or developments of the play?" "Just so."' "Under what circumstances do you refuse to finesse on such a. combina tion as you had?" "When I catch the lone king to my left." "And what system, may I ask, do you follow in making such a play?" contin ued the man who had lost his lone monarch, with'a look of pity and a tone of disgust. "Oh. .we call that the "rubber-neck system: an old system, my boy; and one that gains many a trick' from, your book players." Keeping Sandwiches. It's often necessary. They must be made up early. And they dry and curl so soon. Yet they are very easily kept good. They should simply be placed in an earthen receptacle. This earthen affair, is covered and set in a pan of cold water. In this way they will keep for hours as fresh as when first" made. Candidates who lot of experience. "also ran"' acquire 4 - tss ? - 1 rV1- - "vu:4r 5 fa ' JL2 f r 1 - i- ik J u if ml d 13 : ! ''''HH f ' 4 'i ( v C k IS.. 'JT ' , lr. ' g,....L.,' .. 1 . . -K S VSV 0 ; t ill rA ' W W J J THE Countess do Montagnac has come to America to raise money for the war widows of Frarce. She Jias brought with her a collection of-" rare laces contributed by French women to sell for their benefit. Winifred Holt, a New York woman. hsa returned from Paris to raise money for the support of the "Phare de France" or "Lighthouse" for the blind, which she established there. Since the beginning of the war the "Light houses" at Paris, Bordeaux and other cities established under the plans of Miss Holt have cared for 300 blind and 3000 partly blind French soldiers. Mrs. Charles-R. Dillingham, the wife of the well-known theatrical manager, is a devotee of society and is a New port News visitor in Summer, while in the Spring and Fall she is seen fre quently at the horse shows on Long Island. She is a particular chum of FRENCH DRESSING IS EASILY MADE IF THINGS ARE HANDY Table Set Is Offered for Those Who Do Not Like Boarding-House Mixture and Prefer to Make Their Own. tfi - ".I Ik.-; ' PRESENTABLE FRENCH DRESSING SET. SOME people prefer to mix their own French dressslng at the table be cause no other dressing is quite equal to theirs; other folk prefer to mix their dressing at the table because they are among the unfortunates who board and most salad dressings mixed in. -boarding-house kitchens are either! Insipid, or so strong wnn vinegar mat the flavor is completely spoiled. for - the ' convenience ' of- such -ealad Mrs. Reginald Vanderbilt. Mrs. Dilling ham is often seen on the ice. at the Hippodrome, where society teas are given every Sunday. The tide of tourist travel is turning toward the West and Pacific ships are reported booked full of Americans who want to travel and who cannot go to Europe. Those who go to Australia will I be interested in "seeing the natives of that country and they will be fortunate if they run across a Maori girl. The Maoris are a fine race physically, but mixers the dainty little - Individual French dressing set pictured, is offered. In cut glass and beaten silver the set should be an attractive addition to any table, and will not take up much space. The glass-stoppered bottle is for vine gar, the little Jar for French mustard. Salt, black pepper and paprika will so Into the square, metal-topped bottles. And here is the correct, recipe for French - dressing;" made' at the table. " ' - ' ' - ' - -- - - - v - : -: the feminine type does not realize as a rule our idea of beauty. Nancy Keen Perkins is to be married to Henry Kleld. grandson of ManihA.l Field, of Chloo, and one of the heits to his milltrns. Miss Perkins is a daughter of Mrs. T. Moncure Perkins, who was one of the Langhorne sisters of Virginia a'.d niece of Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson. Mrs. W. W. Astor and Mrs. Reginald Brooks. She has been visiting at Mrt Gibson's home in New York. Mrs. Mary Davis is 80 years old, but she is playing a part regularly in "Old Lady 31." Rachel Crothers' new play, in which Emma Dunn is starring. No makeup could be as realistic an is nature with "Granny," the part which Mrs. Davis plays. Mrs. Davis was with J. Wilkes Booth at one time and dur ing the Grant administration she was with Charlotte Cushman. Pour out a tablespoonful of claret vine gar, stir a tiny bit of mustard in with a fork and add salt and paprika or pepper if you prefer and shake the mixture over the leaves of lettuce on your plate. Two tablespoonf uls of oil will improve the dressing for some, but without oil and with plenty of paprika and a. trine of mustard the dressing is Just right for others. Xo Wonder They Left. 'A correspondent who wishes to be known as Hick has traveled as far as Chicago, of late, and he tells us of an incident that occurred in a South Clark-street restaurant. We understand that South Clark street is one of the well-known thoroughfares of that town. In the restaurant referred to, a few nights ago, these two lines appeared in juxtaposition on the bill of fare: "Bankers' Special Steak Dinner, 35c" "Special Chicken Dinner 40c." And these two dinners seemed very popular on the evening in question. A well-dressed middle-aged gentleman entered the dining-room escorting a lovely young lady of 20 Summers and no visible Winters. Just as the hand some couple stepped onto the floor, the sweet-voiced waitress sang out an or der to the cook: "One banker ana one chicken!" The young lady and her escort re fused to be seated, but left in a high dudgeon and a taxicab. Cleveland Plain Dealer. New friends and old enemies are not above suspicion. "URIC ACID NEVER CAUSED RHEUMATISM" I WANT to pror It to your mm faction. If you bave Rheumttlim oi Neuritis, acute or chronic no matter what your condition writ to-day for my FRL BOOK on 'RHEUMATISM Ita Cauaa and Cure." Thousands calltt "Toe moat wonderful book ever written." Don't end a stamp it's ABSOLVTLLY FREE. JESSE A. CASE lept. 16 8 lirucktun. Mm. . r - ... r r : : '- 1 9 V '4 '. . 0". . . r 9 i :