TIIE SUNDAY OREGON! AN, PORTLAND. NOVEMBER 26, 1016.
VELVET SKATING COSTUME IS ATTRACTIVE FOR
FORMAL SPORT WEAR AT RINKS OR IN PARKS
Dashing Suit of Mulberry Red With Trimming of Australian Opossum Cap Has Neat Boots of Reddish-Brown
Glazed Kid to Harmonize Ready-to-Wear Models Are Short-Coated and Short-Skirted.
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ALTHOUGH the velvet skating cos
tume is rather impractical for
country wear, it is attractive in
deed, at the rink or park where skat
ing is more formal sport than away
out in the wilds. Very fetching and
entirely correct is this dashing skating.
suit of mulberry red velvet with trim
ming of Australian opossum, cap has. a
gathered crown of mulberry velvet and
the neat skating boots are of reddish
brown glazed kid in a tone" harmoniz
ing with the suit. .
Short-coated and short-skirted is
the skating costume and there are doz
ens of alluring ready-to-wear models,
all garnished with fur, of course for
'what would a skating suit bo, minus
its touch of fur? The costume pictured
is typical of the best models and is
built of broadcloth in a pretty shade of
moss green, with bands of beaver fur.
The Russian skating cap is trimmed
With beaver and a strip of orange and
silver metal brocade: a cluster of pale
green grape is tucked in at one side.
Boots of tobasco brown glazed kid com
plete the skating outfit.
Of marocn colored wool velour, and
cut on simple lines, this skating suit
will fit the picture at city rink or
country pond. Beaver faces the high
collar and trims the square patch pock
ets and the maroon velour is stitched
in rows with silk to match
a very distinguished mode of trimming
just now, although of course any cos
tume that claims distinction for itself
has plenty of silk stitching in its seams
and hems. Cotton-sewed clothes, in the
estimation of Dame Fashion, are be
yond the pale. This skating maid wears
a maroon velvet and sealskin skating
cap with odd. metal embroidery.
Concerning Women.
The women of Australia, having the
right. to vote, will help to decide the
Question of conscription, for which a
bill recently passed calls for a referen
dum vote. o
Miss Ella M. Haas, of Ohio, has spent
33 years in a factory, and for the last
seven years has been a member of the
board of factory inspectors of her state.
Mother Oertrude, of the Sisters of
Charity in Dubuque, la., has been a nun
for 75 years, having joined the sisters
in Philadelphia in 1841, when she was
14 years of age.
Miss Margaret Karnes, head house
keeper of the McAlpin Hotel in New
York City, is responsible for the clean
liness of 1100 bathrooms and the proper
performance of the duties of 300 house
maids, in addition to 2000 or 3000 other
euch details of housekeeping.
There is a woman abroad who makes
a business of funerals, where she takes
photos of the mourners and other inci
dents of the occasion. These photo
graphs she makes up into albums and
then sells them to the family of the
decedent. She makes as high as $35 a
week from her enterprise.
Proof?
From the Birmingham Age-Herald.
'Tuibwaite larks imagination."
"Are you sure?"
"Yes, he spent the Summer at an
Bastern coast resort and he was the
only person there who didn't see a
;hark."
Apctiqn
HAVING considered the factors in
fluencing the dealer's policy as
regards a bid, or the lack of a
bid, I will now take up 'the considera
tions governing the policy of the sec
ond bidder.
Second bidder is influenced not alone
by his own holding, but to a greater
or less extent by what the dealer has
announced. The theory is fast gaining
ground that a player is rarely Justi
It.. ...
4 ! y
Bridge
fied in overcalling an adverse no
trump unless with a major suit, spades
or hearts, and when the suit is so
strong as, with slight assistance from
one's partner, practically to assure
game, or unless, the suit being a minor
suit, diamonds or clubs, game is prob
able because of an advanced score.
The time when a player made a bid
simply in the belief that he would
make good his contract and get a
slight advance on the score is rele
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gated to the past. The expert players
of the day play for big things only,
and, save in cases where the bid would
likely insure game, or the adversaries'
score is such that they would proba
bly go game if left to play the hand,
or, save again, for forcing purposes,
the better chance one would have for
an overthrow, perhaps a double, if the
bid were raised, prefer to pass and
play for penalties.
Conformably, then, to this principle,
we, as second bidder, should rarely
overcall the dealer's no trump with a
two-trick suit except under conditions
as above stated. .Especially would
this be unwarranted if the suit were
an established or nearly established
minor suit. Such overcall would
either leave us to play the hand, in
the majority of cases with no appre
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clable advance on the ecorej or would
drive the adversaries to some other
bid at which we would likely be de
fenseless. On the ther hand, if we
leave the adversaries at tneir no trump
bid, not only will it be unlikely that
they will go game I am talking from
the standpoint of love score but we
stand a good chance to defeat them
and thus pile up penalties, this depen
dent upon the .particular strength of
the suit and the assistance our part
ner may give.
The value of penalty points cannot
be overestimated, yet there are many
players, even among those rated as
above the average, who without rhyme
or reason bid up and np in apparently
blissful unconsciousness of the big
score they are building up for the op-i
ponents. Penalty points are morkl
than ever valuable now, because of the
ruling that the winners of the rubber
are not necessarily the players who
have won the two games, but those
whose score shows the higher when
the scores of each side have been
added. It should constantly be borne
in mind that each trick by which the
adversary falls scores a 50-point pen
alty, while an undoubted declaration
at best can score but 10 points.
If the dealer has passed, second bid
der is in practically the same position
as the dealer and subject to the same
rules, modified perhaps by the knowl
edge of the dealer's comparative
weakness. If he also is weak he
should pass. If the dealer has called
a suit and second bidder has one or
more stoppers in the suit and no trump
strength in at least two of the three
remaining suits, a no trump bid is gen
erally in order.
If the dealer has called no trumps
and second bidder has a. hand on which
he also would have called no trumps.
one of two bourses is open to him a
"two no trump" call or a "double."
Such double, which is a convention
adopted by the New York Whist Club
at the time of the late revision of the
laws, informs our partner as to the
true state of our hand and directs him
to call "two no trumps," If he has an
assisting no trump hand, otherwise,
two of his best suit. Whichever pol
icy he adopts, it gives us the advan-'
tage of position as the principal no
trumper, the strong adversary, will be
at our right. To be sure, in such case
if partner's hand is so strong as, in
conjunction with the strength we
have declared, to Insure the chance of
big penalties, and it be not the rub
her game, he may if he choose let the
double stand.
If the dealer calls a suit and we hold
a no trump hand, lacking protection In
the suit, again we double, the double
in this case directing our partner to
call no trumps if he has one or more
stoppers in the adverse suit, otherwise
his longest suit. In either of these
cases the final decision usually rests
with us, and we may accept our part
ner's declaration or adopt some other
expedient (dependent to a greater or
less extent upon what the dealer may
do) as in our judgment seems best.
Save in these cases and the rare
case where we are so strong In every
suit that we may double any declara
tion to which the adversaries may
shift, the double of a one-trick con
tract is unwise and should be avoided.
If the dealer calls a suit, we should
overcall with a suit of a higher, trick
valuation if the suit is such that we
would have called it originally. If it
is desirable to show exceptional
strength in the suit, a two or higher
trick bid may be called.
If we overcall the-dealer's suit bid
with two tricks of a lower suit valua
tion, such bid Is a "forced bid"' and
does not necessarily show the , name
strength that is shown by a "free bid."
Such bid may be made on length lack
ing the tops, as six or more to the
queen. Jack. If the suit is exception
ally strong, we may indicate it ' by a
higher bid than the simple overcall
would demand.
I may here explain that bids are of
different natures and are classified as
follows: free bids, forced bids, busi
ness bids (otherwise pre-emptive bids),
informatory bids, warning bids, sec
ondary bids, etc.
A free bid, as its name indicates, is a
bid which is made freely, without com
pulsion. It generally applies to the
first bid of the dealer or any player
when the intervening plays have
passed; also to the onetrick bid of a
higher trick valuation over the one
trick bid of a lower. It shows high
card and numerical strength and a
minimum number of tricks.
A forced bid is the bid of a greater
number of tricks than would other
wise have been called to overcall a
previous bid. It can be made on
length, six or more, lacking the tops.
A business bid is the bid of a great
er number of tricks than necessary to
show exceptional strength and the de
sire to play the hand at that bid. Such
bid often serves as a pre-emptive bid.
effectually shutting out an adverse bid.
Informatory bids are bids made not
in the hope or with the desire to se
cure the bid, but to inform our part
ner as to a certain strength. In the
hope that he may be warranted in de
claring something better, a no trump
or a major suit. Under this heading
come the on-trlck diamond or club at
love score.
Warning bids and secondary bids
will be considered in a later issue.
The many admirers In this city of
J. B. Elwell, the eminent bridge au
thority, may be interested in learning
that a suit for separation brought
against him by his wife, Mrs. Helen L).
Elwell, herself a teacher and no mean
authority on bridge, has been called
off because of the satisfactory adjust
ment of money matters.
Mr. Elwell, it will be remembered,
was considered the "bright, particular"
authority on bridge; no one else
seemed ever quite to take his place. To
have had lessons of him was supposed
ly to have given one great eclat and
to put one in the front ranks as a
player. Many, too, were apparently
under the .delusion that it would sup
ply them as well with a certain modi
cum of brains. Unfortunately, as it hap
pens brains are a negligible factor,
an intangible something which cannot
be supplied upon demand, though there
tan be no doubt that the systematic
studj and practice of scientific card
games, especially when under the di
rection of a skilled teacher, can do
much towards training the reasoning
powers and strengthening the percep
tion. Mr. Elwell Is the author of a num
ber of works on bridge and also of
"Elwell on Atiction Bridge." For some
reason his works on auction did not
seem quite to measure up to the stand,
ard of his bridge books. It is esti
mated that his income for many years
from classes alone amounted to $18,000
per year. -
latest advice from Xew York re
port much Interest in bridge, large
bridge functions, many of them for
charity, having recently been given at
the Waldorf-Astoria, the Ritz-Carlton
and many other well-known hostel
ries, as well as at several private
homes. At one function at which a
number of prominent women took part
a decided sensation was produced when
it was learned that thoroughbred dogs
would be awarded as prizes.
Portland Is little behind New York
as regards a revival of interest In
bridge, the past week having wit
nessed an unusual number of bridge
luncheons and teas.
Prominent among them are the large
bridge tea given by Mrs. Oscar O.
Menefee at the Hotel Mallory, the
bridge luncheon at which Mrs. John F.
Dickson was hostess recently at Alex
andra Court, the bridge tea given, also
at Alexandra Court, by Miss Edith
Nickolson, the large function in which
23 tables participated and of which
Mrs. R. L. Aldrich and Mrs. Julia A.
Anthony were Joint hostesses, given
at the Hotel Portland; the bridge tea
given by Mrs. Charles McBride Scott
at her home in Irvington and the two
bridge teas, at each of which nine ta
bles took part, given by Mrs. A. C. Cal
lan recently at the Hotel Portland.
ENTRY OF DR. JOHN MIOUGHLIN
INTO OREGON HISTORY PICTURESQUE
Eva Emery Dye Relates Romance Centering Around Hudson's Bay Company and Tells How Men Destined to
Become Notable Traded With Indians and Found Diplomacy a Big Asset.
STORIES OF" OLI? OIIFGUX BY
EVA EMERY UVE.
The stirring tales of old Ore- 1
gon. with all their wonderful I
color, life, romance and historic I
accuracy, as related by Ev.
Emery Dye In her famed book,
"Stories of Old Oregon." are be-
ing presented in installments In t
The Sunday Oregfnian. with 11- I
lustrations provided by the au- T
thor. I
Mrs. Dye. who la a resident of
Oregon City, has written a num-
ber of remarkable books, lnclud-
ing "McLoughlln and Old Ore-
gon" and "The Conquest." These I
books brought Into life and be- a
ing the treasured characters o? I
Lewis and Clc.k, Dr. John Mc-.
Loughlin, Sacajawea and others.
The stories of old Oregon are
made simple for the special ben-
efit of children. Other chapters I
will be published in succeeding I
issues of The Sunday Oregonian. I
The Story of Mr Look hi In.
BY EVA EMERY DYE.
THE grandest flotilla that had yet
appeared at Fort Astoria came
down the Columbia in 1824, bear
ing the new Pacific commander of the
Hudson's Bay Company, Dr. John Mc
laughlin. Far to the nortneast McLoughlin was
born. Just north of the Maine border.
In the days of our Revolution. When
his father was drowned, his young
mother returned with her children to
the home of her father. Malcolm
Fraser. These are the Frasers who
named Fraser River In British Colum
bia: the Frasers whose daring captains
have led Scotch Highlanders over half
the "world. The old stone mansion
stands yet, overlooking the St. Law
rence, the home of McLoughlln's boy
hood. John McLoughlln's brother. David,
went into the wars against Napoleon,
but John himself studied medicine and
Joined the Northwest Fur Company.
Very soon his talents led to posts of
command. The very year that his
friend. Alexander McKay, went away
to Join his fortunes with Astor. Dr.
McLoughlln was in command at Sault
Ste. Marie. In common with his com
pany, he had met Astor. faced him.
fought him In the fur trade on the
Lakes: now. no Northwester watched
more eagerly the Oregon adventure.
News came of McKay's d.jfith In that
far Northwest, but another foe had
ris?n, nearer and harder to meet, a foe
that could not be bought out. as Asior'a
men had been. It was the Hudson's
Bay Company. In real feudal fashion
these rival fur companies, the North
west and the Hudson's Bay. fought on
the plains of North America, and be
sieged each other's castellated forts.
The old. aristocratic Hudson's Bay
Company claimed the earth. Did they
not date back to King Charles in 1670.
who gave to his "beloved cousin."
Prince Rupert, a monopoly of all the
furs of Hudson's Bay? And who were
these upstarts, the Northwesters, that
dared to set their traps on Hudson's
Bajf preserves? But Mackenzie. th.e
greatest o' the Northwesters, had even
followed a great river to the Arctic and
given to it his name. He had crossed
to the Pacific, opening up a whole new
world of fur-land. The King had
knighted Mackenzie. The Northwesters,
proud of their laurels, bold In exploits,
defied the Hudson's Bay.
Parliament Takes Hand.
But when Parliament, over in Eng
land, heard that the two British fur
companies In North America were fight
ing, they put a stop to It. reace must
reign in Britain's dominion. The rival
fur companies were persuaded to com
promise, to unite: and so John Mc
Loughlin, the Northwester, became a
chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Com
pany, and was sent to Oregon.
In that Oregon of the olden time Mc
Loughlin had an empire. Alaska
touched it on the north, and California
on the south. Its eastern wall was
the Rocky Mountains. its western
boundary the Pacific. When McLough
lln reached Astoria it was in sorry de
cay. A recent fire had destroyed most
of Astor's stronghold. So, up the
Columbia, 100 miles. Just beyond the
mouth of the Willamette, on a beautiful
sloping plain facing Mount Hood and
the blue sweep of the river, a new fort
was built, Vancouver. . -
Fancy can picture old Fort Vancou
ver as a medieval castle beside the
blue Columbia. The moated wall was
the lofty palisade. 20 feet high, with
great chained gates and padlocks.
What, warder, ho! let the portcullis fall!
rings in the ear as we think of that
guarded gate, cautiously opened to let
the trader In. In a little room, close
by that gate, slept old Brure. the por
ter, who sometimes was roused from
his slumbers at midnight by a signal
gun and thumping on the portal. It
might be a belated voyageur, but. as a
rule, everyone was within when the
gates were locked at sunset. Within the
great gate there was a small one. Just
large enough to admit one person; this
was a precaution in the case of Indians,
who might, take advantage and crowd
in and seize the fort.
The donjons were log bastions at the
corners, watch towers and arsenals,
wherei a few old guns and a sentinel
guarded the forest fortress.
Within this strong Inclosure extended
a broad, green, grassy court, where the
Indians came to do their trading. The
Governor's residence loomed grandly
beside It, the house of Dr. McLoughlln.
There are people living yet who saw it.
a grim old structure, built Canadian
fashion, with an ample porch In front
Tradition says it was weather-boarded
once and painted white, but to the
memory of the oldest immigrant it was
weather-stained and gray.
- Famto Men In Set .
In the center of the residence was a
spacious dining hall, a sort of council
chamber, where all the- Pacific fur
traders met for annual consultation.
Around Its oaken board high dignita
ries sat and loyal banquets were spread
In the palmy days of the Hudson's Bay
Company. McLoughlln was always at
the head of the table, a sort of mon
arch, a survival of the medieval
baron. At his right sat Douglas,
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chief aid. afterward Sir James Doug
las, the first Governor of British
Columbia, knighted by Queen Victoria.
And with them. In various years, were
Peter Skeen Ogden. afterward chief
factor; Drs. Barclay and Tolmle, Hud
son's Bay physicians; William Glen
Rae, the doctor's son-in-law: Flnlay
son. Allen, John Dunn. Ermatlnger and
others famous In Oregon story.
In a vast kitchen connected with the
residence Basil, the baker, held sway,
who sent to his master's table the!
rarest canvasback ducks, chinook sal
mon and daily venison. In a great,
oven, built of fire bricks brought from'
England, he baked bread for the bri
gades ai:d sea biscuit for ships going
home to England or up to Sitka; for
McLoughlln carried out Astor's old
scheme of trade with the Russians in
Alaska.
Around the Governor's residence
clustered quite a village of store
houses for merchandise. furrooms.
blacksmith shops and barrack rooms
for the employes. One of these. Bach
elors' Hall, was the scene of many a
backwoods carnival. Here the gen
tlemen retirel to smoke, and with trophies-
of the chase adorning the walls,
these knights of primeval time dis
cussed the day's adventure.
In time other cabins grew up outside
the stockaded wall, the homes of voy
ageurs and their halfbreed families,
close under the guns of Fort Vancou
ver. Then from this central emporium
went the annual brigades north to
Fraser River, south to the Spanish land
of California, northeast to Fort Hall,
to the Yellowstone and to Great Salt
I.ake; some followed the Cowlitz to
Nlsqually and the Sound. And when
these returning brigades came home
with the fruits of a season's hunt, how
the hospitable old portals opened to
receive the returning caravans! For
days their advent was waited. With
glass In hand. Dr. McLoughlin would
scan the Columbia for the first glimpse
of the swinging boats. Sometimes an
ifidlan would come to the post with
word that they had been sighted far
up. Forthwith the fort put on its
gala dress, the British flag fluttered
from the pole, the old chimneys roared
with bigger fires than ever and Basil
piled his ovens for the coming ban
quet. And when the long line of
bateaux came in sight, what shrill
music broke the forest silence! With
every paddle dipping in time to some
quaint melody, with every voyageur
dressed In his gayest bonnet, with the
chief trader's flag fiylng, down they
swept to Fort Vancouver. It was the
great carnival of the year. Rough,
weather-beaten voyageurs leaped to
greet their Indian wives and kiss their
Indian babies. Many a treasure from
the far Canadian land was pulled from
pouch and pocket for these little dark
eyed cherubs of the forest. Night
brought the great banquet and floors
ringing to the tread of dancers. Over
all. through all, and in all vibrated the
violin, for every French Canadian was
an artist with the bow. Scarcely could
his faithful squaw believe him home
until she heard the violin.
Lrave-Taklnsr ImpreMlve;
Then came the day of departure,
with new outfits, new goods and new
festivity. The bales that brought
home furs went out with beads and
blankets and all the thousand brlght
hued fabrics that' delight tne savage.
Dashing away a tear, Jean and Gabriel
and Francois kissed their babes, and,
leaping to the rowlocks, struck up the
resounding song of old Canada
Fly away, my heart, away,
and with fluttering pennons and flash
ing oars the boat brigade went gliding
out of sight.
Some of the Columbia Indians were
treacherous. Robber tribes dogged
the white man. fought and made him
pay tribute at every portage. In very
early days, when the Northwesters
were here, some traders wore leather
armor and fur brigades brought the
Cascade tribes to terms by firing a
small brass cannon. They even de
manded tribute when McLoughlin came
and attacked him once at Fort Van
couver, with whoops and yells, at mid
night. McLoughlin armed his men
and called the chieftains in. Striding
through the narrow gate, no doubt
they expected gifts and bribes to buy
them off. McLoughlin had a wiser
plan. He summoned old Colin Fraser,
in Highland kilt and plume, to play
the ba.gpipes. Strutting up and down,
the old Soot played his wildest. So
charmed were the savages that they
forgot theier warlike errand, and while
the painted warriors surged outside
their chiefs within signed a treaty,
drawn up by McLoughlin, to never
more molest Vancouver.
Diplomacy l ard on Sat age.
McLoughlin was a diplomat. Very
well he knew the effect of pump and
color on the savage heart: never ild
his baree float on the stream without
the insignia of power tlaus and pen
nants and royal music. McLoughlin
had a daughter. Just a tinge of Indian
in her cheek, that, clad like a princess. '
rode by her father's side when the gay
brigades of Autumn wound up the
Willamette on their way to California.
Only a few miles he accompanied thosa
horse brigades of Autumn, but all th
Indian world trooped out to see the
state and splendor of the White-headed
Chief who ruled so grandly at Van
couver. And on the waters the best
voyageurs in the world were his, the
most skilled at the paddle and the
shrillest singers. Oregon was vocal
with their chansons In the forest, ring
ing at moonlight in the valley and
startling dayliirht up the Columbia In
the shadow of Mount Hood.
No Indian dared defy the magnate
at Vancouver. His arm was swift ana
terrible; the disobedient slunk away
before those fiery eyes as from a
wrathful god. Mrloughlin had a
quick and passionate temper, perhaps
even exaggerated for effect upon his
savage subjects. A consummate actor,
his very hair seemed to spread and
swell like a halo In his fits of wrath.
A caike in his hand was more to be
dreaded than a gun In any other. But
oh! how mild and sweet and fatherly
he was when pleased and calm. The
Indians consulted him, brought him
gifts; the first salmon of the season
was brought to Fort Vancouver, the
choicest otter, the blackest beaver. He
settled all their difficulties, forbade
their waging war. put a stop to many
a barbarous practice and sold them
guns and traps until they forgot the
use of the arrow.
The French voyageurs feared and
loved MoL,oughlin, though he ruled
them with a rod of iron. "Eef man
haf more nor one wife, 'e old Dogtor
would 'ang eem." said the old voy
ageurs. And very good wives the
Indian women made for those happy-go-lucky
Frenchmen, whose chief aim
in life was to have a good time. But
all their song and dance and levity
was a blessing in the hardships of the
laborious hunter's life. Sleeping night
after night in damp and rain and cold,
cordelling canoes along rocky paths,
leaping cataracts and sweeping cas
cades the Jollier they were the less
they realized the dancers of their lives.
A vehison steak, a cup of tea. an hour
of sleep and all were ready again for
another day as burdensome as the last.
When his voyageurs grew old Mc
Loughlin did not ship them home to
Canada- If they wished he let them
settle with their Indian families at
Champoeg. a garden spot of prairie up
the Willamette, where, in their" little
cottages, they passed the peaceful
evening of their lives. Sometimes Mc
Loughlin visited old Champoeg, mov
ing like a father among his children.
Whatever he said, that was law in the
(Concluded on Pace 11.)
TODAY'S BEAUTY HINT
It is not necessary to shampoo quite
so frequently if your hair is properly
cleansed each time by use of a really
good shampoo. The easiest to use and
quickest-drying shampoo that we can
recommend to our readers may be pre
pared very cheaply by dissolving a tea
spoonful of canthrox. obtained from
your druggist, in a cup of hot water.
This rubbed into the scalp creates a
trick lather, soothing and cooling in
Its action, as well as beneficial to scalp
and hair. After rinsing the scalp is
fresh and clean, while the hair dries
quickly and evenly, developing a bright
luster and a soft fluffiness that makes
it seem very heavy. Adv.
V