6
TTIE SUNDAY OliEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 2G. 1916.
SKATING COSTUMES FOR BOTH YOUNG AND
MIDDLE-AGED WOMEN ARE ULTRA SMART
Furs Are Feature, and High-Laced Boot Is, of Course, Prominent; Slip-on Blouse Recommended as Handy
Article of Apparel, and Tarn o'Shanter, With Rakish Tilt, Sets Off Becoming Ensemble.
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SKATING has become a sport pur
sued by middle-aKed aa well as
young women and costumes for
all are youthful and dashing; but one
particular little blue suit is for a de
butante and would be trying on an
older woman. The material Is wool
velour in a lovely shade of blue, dark
er than Copenhagen, yet not verging
on the navy. Australian opossum Is
the fur and the deep cape is matched
by pointed cuffs that are particularly
smart. Hifrh laced skating boots of
tobasco brown glazed kid are revealed
by the short skirt: the hat is trimmed
with a broad band of dull gold metal
ribbon.
As comfortable as an adorable "mid
dy" is the slip-on suit which has a
slash at the front so that it may be
drawn on over the head, and a knot
ted sash, so that it may be drawn in
to give a trim waistline. This fetching
slip-on model is of rose-colored wool
Jersey, with raccoon -uffs and collar
and balls of the fur swinging at the
ends of the sash. The fur-trimmed
pockets must not be overlooked. The
skating cap, with its pompon at one
side. is delightfully dashing and
Jaunty.
It is the wav a tarn is worn that
makes it smart or otherwise. With
clever art has an angora tarn been
dragged over at one side and pushed
flat up on the other, behind a pompon,
to give the rakish tilt of a ' Paris
chapeau of the moment. Both tarn
o'shanter and scarf are pink and white
angora. They should prove becoming
to a pretty girl and lend her costume
that Informal free-and-easy suggestion
that Is appropriate for fun in the country.
Bent Koot Foremost.
McKenzie Gordon, an English actor,
was talking in San Francisco about the
German Chancellor's speech at the
opening of the reichstag.
"The Chancellor." he .said, "had to ad
mit Italy's and Roumania's declaration
of war. He hart to admit the loss of
Thlepval and Comhles. He had to ad
mit the allies' superiority all along the
line. And yet he declared boldly that
Germany was going to win the war.
"The Chancellor was putting his best
foot foremost. He reminded me of the
fhap whom they tarred and feathered
in Graveyard.
" 'So they tarred and feathered you,
eh?" said a curious friend.
" 'Yep. They tarred and feathered
me.'
"How did it make you feel?"
"Like a bird.'" Washington Star.
The Other a liipcd.
Pat was servant of a farmer, and in
his charge was a donkev, which was
kept to amuse his employer's children.
The donkey was following the farmer's
wife around the yard one day, and the
farmer, turning to Pat, said:
"I think the donkey is taking a liking
to my wife."
"Och," said Pat. "shure an' it's not
the first donkey that's took a likin' to
her, sir.
Answers to Correspondents
PORTLAND. Or., N'ov. 1. Kindly Elvp re
cipe for A vegetarian mincemeat made with
out auet or liquor. Thanking you.
MRS. R. F. W.
I HOPE the following will suit you.
The spices may be varied to' suit
individual taste. Less butter may
be used if a plainer mixture- is pre
perred. Vegetarian mincemeat Two pounds
chopped apples, two pounds well
washed and dried currants, two pounds
washed, seeded and chopped raisins,
three cups brown sugar, two cups but
ter, one-half pound finely Chopped
mixed candied peel, juice and grated
rind of three or four lemons( accord
ing to size and personal taste), one or
ange, juice and grated rind, one tea
spoon cinnamon, one-quarter teaspoon
cloves, one-half teaspoon mace, one
half teaspoon nutmeg, one-quarter tea
spoon ginger, one-half cup syrup from
sweet pickled peaches or other sweet
pickled fruit. Soften but do not oil
the butter, beat in the sugar and mijfc
thoroughly with the other ingredients.
Cover closely and store in a cool dry
place to have the flavors well blended
before use.
PORTLAND, Or., Oct. 30. 'Will you kindly
tell me if the following menu is a balanced
one? I have a small Income and muat keep
my bills down. Breakfast: Oatmeal, cocoa,
waffles, with Jelly or syrup. Luuch: Creamed
p'a. baked potatoes with butter, stewed to
matoes, glass milk, fruit. Supper: Creamed
e-lt-ry on toaat. tea, rrult and cakes.
Thankin- you If you can let me kno
through The OreRonian, as this is a fair
sample of my dally menu. MRS. C. N.
Your menus tend to be too starchy
and are besides lacking in the "interest
center" or "flavor value." which is an
important factor, even if it cannot be
expressed in calories or "units of nu
trltion."
ir me wairies are made with eggs,
they would tend to be expensive for
tnis season, if not made with eggs
they tend to give, with their aceo
panyirg syrup, cocoa and oatmeal, a
breakfast too rich in carbohydrates. It
is not possible for me to work our your
menu scientifically in calories as the
details given are too vague. "Fruit."
for instance. might mean bananas
wh!ch contain starch and sugar) or
oranges (containing no starch and little-
sugar) or stewed fruit (to which
sugar has been added). "Cake," also,
might be egglcss or might contain sev
eral eggs.
It is not necessary for each indi
vidual meal, to "balance," but generally
a person is more satisfied with a meal
in which all the food principles are rep
resented than by a meal in which one
or more may be in excess. If your diet
is limited chiefly to vegetables and
flour or cereal products, be sure to use
milk very freely and some cheese or
an egg or two daily. Milk, cheese, eggs,
meats, fish, dried beans and peas, are
our food products richest in protein or
tissue-building material. Wheat and
nuts also are sources of protein. For
growing children more of these foods
are needed than for middle-aged people
at sedentary employment; hence it is
well to reduce their Quantity as one
comes to the later years. But thev
should always be represented in normal
diets. Plenty of fresh fruits and vege
tables should be taken at all agea.
I should advise you to write for some
of the many excellent Government bul
letins on food values and food mate
rials. You can see them first at the
Library, and so select those you need
most. You will find them a great help
in improving your menus. I fear this
does not seem a very directly helpful
answer, but there is no "patent medi
cine route" to a correct diet for any
particular individual. Nothing will
take the place of first-hand study of
food values and a knowledge of the
kind of practical cooking that secures
attractive form, texture, and flavor
from simple, wholesome material.
ASTORIA. Or., Oct. 31. Will you kindly
publish In your column of The Oresonlan the
recipe for your "Kill Urother- fruit cake
(the same one you put in some time agoT
Also can the oil or extract of spearmint
V p usee n m&Kins; mint Jelly,
" " ' i"e Krecn leaves lor same cannot be
obtained, and which la preferable? In mak
ing the almond paste to finish fruit cake
do you buy the almond meal in the drug
store or do you buy the almonds and ffrlnd
them yourself? Also what are the proper
things to be served with a crab supper?
HOHlnr this Will not t&lc. tnn mliKh nf
your time and space, and thanking you In
advance for answering above questions, I
am, your very truly. M J W
1. Since several correspondent hiva
asked for the "brother-killer" cake. I
am reprinting it by special permission,
although I do not think the "time limit"
has expired. It is a useful foundation
mixture. More fruit can be added If a
fruitier" cake is liked, and with 1 on
fruit is is still (to my mind, at least)
very pleasing mixture.
2. Oil of spearmint might be used In
making mint Jelly if fresh mint were
unoDiainaoie, put caution is necessary
using it. It is so easy to over-
flavor the jelly when the oil is used.
Add it, drop by drop, to apple or lemon
Jelly until the desired strength of
flavor is obtained. Peppermint should
not be used for this purpose. It .is
used only for sweet dishes and candies,
never with meat.
3. You may either buy a goort grade
of almond meal (for icing) from the
grocery, or you may grind the almonds
yourself. Drug store almond paste is
usually intended for external rather
than for internal use.
4. There are no particular "proper"
things for a crab supper. I presume
you intend to serve "cracked .crabs"
for a somewhat informal meal. They
would, of course, be accompanied by
mayonnaise or tartare sauce or any
preferred dressing and with sliced
lemons. A plain salad of cabbage, or
cabbage and celery, or lettuce hearts.
would be &. good accompaniment; or
serve celery separately, as well as a
green salad, if you prefer to do so.
Whole wheat bread and butter sand
wiches would be passed with the crab.
You might precede the crab by a fruit
cocktail (orange or orange and grape
fruit for choice) and follow it with
cake and coffee if you like; but it is
rather difficult to help you with def
inite suggestions for so undefinite a
purppse. You see, you give me no
idea of the number of -your guests or
the style of service appropriate to
the occasion. Write again ir I can
give you more help.
Knglish fruit cake (Kill orotnen
One pound or two cups solid.
best butter; one pound (two cups)
Ight brown sugar. pounded ana
sifted if necessary; one pound of
eggs, usually nine at this season.
but eight if large), one pound Hour,
four cups level, measured after once
sifting, two teaspoons mace, two lea
snoons cinnamon, one-half teaspoon
clover, the grated rinds (yellow only)
of one large orange and one lemon.
one-fourth teaspoon almond essence,
teaspoon (strictly level) soda, two to
four tablespoons brandy or spiced fruit
syrup, one pound sultana raisins, one
pound dark seeded raisins, one pound
best currants. one pound Diancnea
almonds, cut lengthwise. one pound
mixed crystallized peels (or one-fourth
pound orange peel, one-fourth pouna
lemon peel, one-fourth pound citron
peel and one-fourth pound glace
cherries). If the maximums of rrult
is desired, another pound of raisins or
currants, or better, one-half pound ot
each, might be added (making six
pounds in all), but the five pounds of
fruit and nuts, with the four pounas oi
cake foundation and the liquid will
give a large eight to nine-pound cake.
I generally cook this quantity in two
flat loaves and stick them together
afterwards with almond icing. If you
prefer to bake the cake a narrow shoe
box or corset box, lined with well-
reased paper. Is good instead of a tin.
About four hours will be needed for
baking.
During the first hour it rises, in the
second it rises and begins to brown, in
the third browns and stops rising, in
the fourth cooks in center, and must
be protected from further browning,
but it should not be removed aintil it
has been thoroughly tested (by sight,
smell, hearing, touch and skewer), or
it may have a heavy streak in it. Have
pans ready before you mix. Have
greased lining papers, well-fftting and
projecting one inch above the pans.
Have the raisins and currants quickly-
scalded, washed In several cold waters.
carefully picked over (for stones, seeds
or stalks), and dried in a warm place
where they will swell a little. Have
the flour warmed, sifted, measured (or
better, weighed) and reslfted with the
soda and spices. Warm it on a paper
in the warming oven. Cream the but
ter in a large warm bowl. Do not oil
the butter. Beat in the sugar. Use
a long-handled flat-bowled wooden
spoon. Learn to use alternately dif
ferent sets of muscles in beating so
that you may continue, -uninterrupted
ly. without getting tired. Have the
butter well increased in bulk and quite
white before adding the sugar. Add
the eggs, unbeaten, one at a time, with
about one tablespoon flour to main
tain the "creamed butter" consistency
and air-entangling quality of the bat
ter. Add liquids in the same way, be
ing .careful to keep the right con
sistency of the batter, not "thinning'
it and wasting your beating, as well
as making It easter for the fruit to
sink. Add the other flavorings. Then
the fruit peel and nuts tossed in
little of the flour, so that each piece
is separate. Lastly, fold in any re
maining flour. Put into the prepared
pans, scraping the mixture well from
the center to the sides.
The cake may be baked, but there is
usually a difficulty with so solid a
mixture in getting a "burned currant
flavor to the outside slices. Conse
quently many of the people (including
myself) use steam to cook the cake,
and the oven for finishing only. Four
to five hours steaming, followed by
three-fourths to one and one-half
hours in the oven, will usually be
enough, the exact time depending upon
the thickness rather than the size of
the loaf.
For steaming a cap of greased pa
per should be used. Or if the tin
comes high enough above the mixture
to allow for all possible rising, a tin
cover or a second Inverted pan may be
used. A greased paper cap is also
helpful, sometimes, in baking to re-
vent too rapid top-browning. If there
Is any danger of too great heat from
below in the oven, an asbestos mat
may be used under the cake tin. Home
made candied peel and cherries not
only reduca the cost of the cake, but
GROUP PORTRAITS OF WOMEN WHO HAVE
WON PLACES OF PROMINENCE IN NEWS
Lady Douglas Haig Is Leading Figure in AVar Relief Movements Ex-Queen Liliuokalani, of Hawaii, Reported to
Be Dying, Has Been Long Identified AVith Mid-Pacific Af fairs.
OSS--. . t xfr
w) ' bH k. v
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C?r-GG ' VvV (! , " S
4.J HI I
LAV K.NDKIl UI'.NLOP could tell
"What Muzle Knew" better than
Henry James ever did. Lavender
was in the excitement on the Kspagne
when that ship ran into a small vessel
In mid-ocean at night. After Lavender
had reached the deck with her parents
she suddenly remembered Mazie and
insisted on going below to rescue her.
Lady Douglas Halg. wife of Sir
Douglas Haig. commander-ln-clitef of
the British army, is working for vic
tory as hard as her famous husband.
She has been a leading figure in a ma
jority of the big war relief movements
started in Kngland recently. For tire
less work she is considered the equal
of her husband.
Ex-Queen Lllluokalini. of Hawaii, is
reported dying. She has long been a
prominent figure in mid-Pacilic affairs.
C. S. Pietro, known as "Society's
Sculptor," has completed a marble bust
of Mrs. Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt. con
sidered one of the most beautiful wom
en in America. It is -on exhibition in
the Gorham Galleries.
Art critics pronounce the bust as the
be3t marble portrait work Pietro has
ever turned out. The modeling is
subtile and has the air of exquisite re
finement which is characteristic of Mrs.
Vanderbilt's beauty.
One of the prettiest and cleverest of
the child actresses of New York is
"Babe" Green. ' She is a talented
dancer as well as actress and has won
many silver cups in dancing contests.
also improve its flavor. The spices
may be varied to suit individual taste.
PORTLAND. Nov. 4. Will you please give
In The Oregonlan the principles of making
vinegar with mother? For years we had
lovely homemade vinegar In a five-gallon
k.-g. Whenever one had fruit Juices or
honey -e added It with water. At any
time we could take off a half gallon and
It was good to use as soon as settled.
Np' I have had good material but the
vinegar simply doesn't sour. Should It be
kept near the stove? Is tea good to add?
If vinegar molds is the mother still good?
Is it necessary to add sugar? Is a stono Jar
a. rood receptacle? I have heard that the
acid ' acts on the tone. but I know many
people use it and also for kraut. KBADKH.
The principle of vinegar making on
a small scale is to make a "happy
home" for the minute organisms con
stituting the "mother." and then to
keep out other conflicting organisms,
such as the molds you complain of.
A keg is best, I believe better than
a crock.
The foundation may be fruit Juice,
diluted, if necessary, or water sweet
ened with sugar, molasses or honey.
"Mother of vinegar" is added and the
mixture should be kept slightly warm
at first, to start the acetic fermenta
tion. Your solution may be either too
weak or too concentrated or the "moth
er" may be weak. This is almost sure
to be the case If the liquid shows
signs of mold growth. Your keg may
need to be thoroughly scalded and sup
plied with fresh vinegar "mother" and
fresh fruit Juice or cider. Tea is of
no particular use except for color,
sometimes. I hope these suggestions
may solve your difficulties. Possibly
some reader with long experience in
vinegar making may offer further sug
gestions. PORTLAND. Or.. Nov. 4. Will you kindly
teil me the names of some good cookbooks,
suitable for two people; something with
plentv of salad and luncheon recipe, and
not too expensive books. Thanking you, 1
remain. MRS. R. J. M.
Go to the Public Library, if possible,
and inspect the many helpful cook
books there before making your final
selection. Miss Farmer's "Boston Cook
ing School Cook Book" is an excellent
one for general purposes, though not
intended especially for two. Most of
the recipes are for about six people.
Janet McKenzie Hill's "Cooking for
Two" is one of the best small-quantity
books I know.- It does not give ex
tensive salad and luncheon recipes, but
with a good general knowledge of cook
ing the type of recipes given should
make further "composition" of salads
and luncheons an easy matter. At the
library you will find a number of spe
cial salud and luncheon books, from
which you may get suggestions, even
If you do not care to buy these par
ticular books. The two mentioned
above, however, are the kind to buy
and keep for ready reference. The
first costs about $1.75, I think, and
the second $1.2o.
Over the trimly fitting lines of bodice
lining and skirt the outer bodice,
weighted by the tunic, falls in the
long-waisted Muyt-nur line so fat-h-ionable
just now.
And, by the by. the square tunic will
ripple ever so much more smartly If
you lay a narrow strip of wltchtex
stiffening inside its hem. Another
wltchtex facing should go inside the
hem of the skirt. This modern crino
line, which dampness or crushing do
not affect, gives the tailored costume
the right lines without anv suggestion
of rigidity, and the frock will keep
its style throughout the season, never
slinking Into limpness as unsttffened
material will surely do after the first
newness of the dressing, sponging and
pressing wears away.
ililoiie Not X-'lol.
From an Kxrhange.
They were dining off fowl in r res
taurant. "You mc," he explained as he
showed her the wihlne. "you take
hold here. Then we must both make a
wish and pull, and when it breaks the
one who has the biggest part of it will
have his or her wish granted."
"But 1 don't know what to wish for,"
she protested.
"Oh, you can think of something." he
said.
"No, I can't." she replied. "I can't
think of anything I want very much."
"Well. I'll wish for you." he ex
claimed. "Will you, really?" she asked.
"Yes."
"Well, then, there's no use fooling
with the old wishbone." she inter
rupted with a glad smile; "you can
have me."
A Surmise.
"I was Just reading about a hen that
laid 26 eggs In 27 days, besides taking
care of a brood of chickens."
"I'll bet that hen didn't belong to
any clubs." Louisville Courier-Journal.
Secret of Smart Ripple in
New Frocks Discovered'.
Blar Square- of Material Are l ard,
With Hole at Center to Form
Walxtline.
IN spite of the "do-not-handle" signs
conspicuously displayed on new Au
tumn frocks at the openings, surrep
tlously examine the graceful, rippling
tunica that give the smart silhouette
so charmingly and you will discover
if you have the experienced dressmak
ing eye that most of them are simply
big squares of material with a hole at
the center to form the waistline. Such
a tunic is very easy to cut at home
and cannot fail to hang correctly over
the skirt, but one must use very wide
material In 4 8 or 52-lnch width to
get a full ripple effect. The corners
of the square should hang at either
side of front and back and not at the
center front and back on either side.
Cut the hole for the waistline in a
very narrow ellipse, rather than a cir
cle, and the tunic will ripple more
gracefully. The placket -opening may
be slashed down at the back or at
one side of the front, according to the
fastening of the bodice, and should
be neatly faced with silk and fastened
with small snaps.
Observe the Fall models carefulls
and you will discover, also, that bod
ices and tunics are attached to each
other, while the skirt Is separate and
hangs from a fitted belt. This belt
is reinforced with featherbone girdelin
and Is attached to the bodice lining,
also fitted carefully with f tataerbunes.
Good Old Home-Made
Family Cough Remedy
Much Better than the- Ready
Made Klad Knwlly and
Cheaply Prepared.
If you combined the curative proper
ties of every known "ready-made coujrh
remedy, you would hardly have in them
all the curative power that lies in this
simple "home-made" con-rli syrup which
takes only a few minutes to prepare.
Get from any drut'siist 2'-j ounces of
Pinex (bo cents worth I, pour it into a
pint hottle and fill the bottle with plain
granulated buyar syrup. The total cost
is about 54 cents and rives yoti a full
pint of really better couch syrup than
vou could buy ready-made for $2.00.
Tastes pleasant and never spoil.
This l'inex and suar syrup prepara
tion pots rieht at the cause of a coujrh
and cives almost immediate relief. It
loosens the phlcjrm, stops the nasty
throat tickle and heals the sore, irri
tated membranes that line the throat,
chest and bronchial tubes, so gently
and easily that it is really astonishing.
A day's use will usually overcome the
ordinary couch and for bronehitiSj
croup, whooping couch and bronchial
asthma, there is nothing better.
l'inex is a most valuable concentrated
compound of rcnuine Norway pine ex
tract, combined with puaiacol and has
been used for generations to break up
severe couch s.
To avoid disappointment, be sure to
ask your druccist for "2'-j ounces of
Pinex" with full direction, and don't
accept anythimj else, A guarantee of
absolute satisfaction or monev prompt
ly refunded, cocs with this preparation.