Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 5, 1916)
TIIE SUNDAY OltEGONIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 5. 1016. money. A woman writes about her son and says: "My 15-year-old son. having com pleted the course in our rural echool without being prepared for college, boarded year before last in a city 10 miles away and attended the public school. I was worried about him all the time, because, besides the 20 a Portland Piano Tuning, Repairing & Mfg. Co. PRETTIEST OF TOGGERY IS DONNED FOR MATINEE AND TEA AT RESTAURANT Typical Tailleur Is of Pale Tan Broadcloth With Trimming of Seal Fur Coat Appears to Be Slashed Under Arms to Reveal Part of Moyenage Frock, but Coat Is Really Moyenage ModeL . FACTORY REPRESENTATIVES FOR THE month he spent for board, he got to going- about at night spending- money and neglecting his studies. The neigh The BALDWIN ELLINGTON HAMILTON HOWARD and MONARCH Pianos are all manufactured complete by the Bald win Co. in its large fac tories at Cincinnati and Chicago. In purchasing a' Baldwin-made Piano you are certain of obtaining an instrument of which you may be proud and which will give you pleasure and satisfac tion for a lifetime. In every instance you are sure of getting "The Best Piano for the Least Money. MATCHLESS boring -farmers who had eons and daughters attending the city school proposed that this last year we send the boys and girls in every morning, agreeing to pay me 10 a month each if my car was used. One man had -a son and daughter, another a daughter. nd two others a son each, making five paesengers besides my son; thus I re ceive $30 a month. What I save on my son's expenses more than pays for gasoline and repairs, and I have the use of the car in the afternoon and the satisfaction of having my child We are located on the East Side (just at the east end of the Hawthorne bridge), where our expenses are less than one-tenth of what the West Side houses are compelled to pay, and our prices are accord ingly lower. Investigate our East. Side Lbw-Price Plan of selling and save money by purchasing here, instead of paying for high rent, expensive fixtures and a corps of salesmen, etc., as you must when buying of the West Side firms. LOW EXPENSE with us means LOW PRICES on HIGH QUALITY PIANOS for you. We offer you Better Quality at a Smaller Price than any piano store in Portland. Any prejudices you may have against the "mechanical music" produced by most Player Pianos, are over come when you play and hear a with me at night, besides $350 in the bank." Black Satin Frocks Made on Voluminous Lines. lrt I ' v i (' ,n ? ' f 4, tit - If t , . "sSpC' ' , ,. ill THE matinee girl gets herself up in her prettiest toggery for an after noon at the theater and tea after ward at a smart restaurant. A typical matinee tailleur is of pale tan broad cloth with trimming of seal fur. The coat appears to be slashed under the arms to reveal part of the Moyenage frock; but it is really a Moyenage coat, all in one piece, the separate skirt be- i ing worn with a laoe blouse. A girlish hat of velvet with a supple brim and correct walking boots of tobasco brown glazed kid with buttoned tops of cloth accompany the suit. All shades of gray are high in fash Ion's favor, and this alluring costume is in a certain shade of gray that is loveliest with moleskin. Graceful iris designs are brocaded in satin on the crepe fabric, all in self tone, and the simple lines of the gown are suited to such a handsome material. CufC, belt, trimming band and square collar are of moleskin, and the collar has long ties of gray faille silk. The dainty boots are of gunmetal gray glazed kid with buttoned tops in pale gray. One of the most charming examples of the fashionable Moyenage lines, brought out this season, is featured in a frock for matinee wear, a dainty model in coffee brown crepe meteor with collar of cream satin and vest of the same satin veiled with coffee brown chiffon. The band of otter fur on the tunic weights down the soft folds of the fabric, giving emphasis to the tuck run in midway, and buttons oddly placed at the hip accentuate the lons waisted effect, though a cord girdle defines the natural waist line. A daiNty frock of this character should be sewed with silk throughout cotton stitches in the tuck or at the shirred hip would ANU un or , NULLO as a pre-emptive bid is iwise, as the unknown quantity. rather quality, in the partner's hand may contain a serious menace and yet by reason of the high bid he be unable to indicate it. To be sure, if the hand assures but one or perhaps two tricks, it may be ventured at a critical score, but such policy calls for subtlety and fine discrimination and should not be attempted by any but the expert player. Contrariwise, pre emptive no-trump or suit bids are per haps more frequently made in nullo circles than among players generally, with the intent to shut out a possible nullo bid which might redound materi ally to the opponents' score. A partner at nullo does not always prove an unmixed blessing. Indeed, there is' no bid which more impera tively demands for its successful out come the co-operation of one's partner than the nullo, and a player having named the bid should give his partner every possible chance to indorse it, or call it off before raising the bid on his own cards alone. As can be inferred, no bid imposes a greater obligation upon the partner in the respect of show ing his hand than the nullo, and he should not fail to sound a danger signal if at all possible in any and ail cases where his hand is not suited to the re quirements of a nullo. This he can do in one of two ways, by refusing to ad vance, or by making a legitimate bid of his own, in cases where the opponent has made an overcall, or by naming aome other bid if the opponent has passed. The latter course is, to be sure, not always practicable, as his hand may not admit of a bid and yet be danger ous for a nullo. This will not be the case often, however, and in the greater number of cases almost any bid will turn out better, or. to speak more to the point, less disastrously, than a doubtful or dangerous nullo. An orig inal nullo bid does not by any means deny assistance for a declation to win, even a no-trump declaration, as the player calling off his partner's nullo will have frequent occasion to realize. At all events, by sounding the danger signal and thereby denying a nullo as sist, the partner has shifted the re sponsibility from himself to the orig inal bidder and if he persists in the nullo, which, however, no sound player would be apt to do, he does so at his own risk, and will alone be responsible Auction Bridge- lf' 1 I? , i & ' . t i, detract from the effect of distinction and women should loolc carefully to this matter of silk sewing in buying ready-made models. for the fiasco which is almost sure to follow. It will occasionally happen that your hand will not hurt "one nullo," and so when the chance first offer for sound ing a warning, you do not give it. Your partner should not be unduly encour aged by this fact, however, but if pos sible should give you another chance before advancing the bid himself. An example: Your partner bids "one nul lo." second hand passes; you also pass; fourth bidder calls, we will say "two hearts." nullos being played at 10, Though you failed to warn when you had the chance, your partner should give you another chance to do so before raising the bid. If you call "two nul los," well and good. Your partner may then advance as often as he deems ex pedient. If, however, you pass, or make some other bid, it will prove in th majority of cases that you are well out of any impossible contract and your partner will have cause to applaud your act and his own caution. To encourage your partner's nullo, your own hand should not assure more than three tricks; a smaller number is preferable. Some authorities affirm that your hand as well should be an ideal nullo hand, but by the very na ture of the nullo bid, this is not always practicable. Your partner, the original bidder, to Justify the nullo should have at least three suits well fortified in small cards, deuces, treys, fours, etc, This being so, your hand per force must contain higher cards. If, however, you have fives, sixes, sevens, etc., it will not infrequently turn out that they are in sequence with the smaller cards held oy your partner and are therefore safe guarded. As in the hand of the original bidder, missing suits are of the great est value. Before leaving this phase of the sub Ject I wish to call the attention again of the partner of the nullo bidder to the importance of sounding a warning, if at all possible, whenever his hand will prove a menace to the bid. As has been explained, no bid goes as badly wrong as a nullo bid when it does go wrong. He should bear in mind also that his hand is the hand that will be exposed if the bid carries, and will nec essarily be the target at which the shafts of the opponents will be persist ently directed. All his strong points. in nullo parlance, his weak points, will be taken advantage of to the utmost, and a card or cards which in the ordi nary game would be valueless will often be forced to win tricks. In the closed hand dangerous cards can often be dis carded, such card or cards in the ex posed hand will generally be forced to win. Second bidder should bid nullo on the same holding required for the dealer; third and fourth bidders also. Third and fourth bidders need not be deterred from bidding a nullo because the partner has made a no-trump or a suit bid in cases where they are un able to assist the bid but have a le gitimate nullo bid. A player win at times hold a com bination nullo. that is. a hand which equally warrants a nullo or a suit bid. In such case, conformably to the ruling which recommends the higher valua tion first, he should name the nullo (the nullo being played at 10). If at the 8 value, he should call the suit if the suit be spades or hearts, but the nullo if it be a minor suit, diamonds or clubs. If he calls the nullo and the partner denies a nullo assist, he can subsequently call the suit: if he cajls the suit and developments make it seemingly'inexpedlent to go on with it. he can subsequently call the nullo. There is no game which develops prettier or more subtle play than the nuno. Adapablllty, card sense, the abil ity quickly to size up and take advan tage of situations as they develop and many other intangible but brilliant qualifications are necessary to the suc cessful nullo player. Nullo play dif fers from all other play in that It is impossible to formulate any set rule or rules for its guidance, even as re gards leads. As has been said, it is full of surprises, and a line of nlav which would be effective in one case may prove entirely the reverse in the other. The choice of one lead rather than another by an opponent as the opening lead, both apparently good may ln tne one case work to the dis tinct advantage of the player. In the otner to nis complete overthrow. Ye it would perhaps be impossible to as sert that the one was wrong or the other right. A singleton lead is usually advisa ble as a blind lead, especially if it be a card or such value as will compe a trie at some stage. The onlv ob Jection, perhaps, to such a lead is tha it may perhaps enable the declara to bunch two high cards upon it. The intermediate card of a suit of three, o intra or fourth best of a suit of five or more is also generally advisable as it leaves one with a lower and high er card or cards of the suit, both o all of which may come in effectively at a later stage, the lower perhaps as exit caras, me higher as re-entrv card in cases where it may be desirable to secure a lead in order perhaps to force nuverae exit card. j. nese leads are generally advisable for the declaran as well. He, however, sees his part ner s caras ana can better nlan th particular line of play he thinks will be most effective. The moment dummy's cards are upon me taDie me player should take a ran 1.1 mental inventory of their vulnerable points and by any means that may oc cur to mm endeavor to safeguard the against me snarts or the opponents. e snouia carefully note the cards 1 sequence with his own, should work ror discards in the two hands, should studiously endeavor to prevent them o the part of the opponents, should ge rid of re-entry cards, hold on to exi cards, at the same time endeavoring to force them from opponents, bunch high cards together on tricks that must be won, etc. When it is evident that certain number of tricks must he won it is generally well to win them early, oeiore mere is the danger of being 1 the lead when one has perhaps parted witn nis exit cards and has only -vln ning cards to lead, when a player gets the bid at a nullo he does not contract to lose all 13 tricks, as, judging by his feverish and often ill-advised haste to avoid all tricks, one would som times imagine he thought was the case The various policies suggested above are applicable to the opponents as well as the declarent. In fact, the underly ing motive of play for both the declar ant and opponents is practically the same. In all games, whether the ob ject be to win or lose, it is important that the strong player be on one'? right. In nullo play this enables you just to underplay him. Woman Stakes $350 in 7 Months. The . October Woman's Home Com panion tells of an easy way to make Attractive Piece ef Feminine Ap parel Thin Fall Is Ularnle Veil. T) LACK satin frocks are voluminous in the quantity of satin used, yet are graceful and smart because of the controlled fullness and good lines. A double choker collar edged with mole skin "may be turned down into a deep cape, and there is a broad belt of the moleskin which passes all araund the waist except six. inches at the front, where it is held together by a silver chain and two big fur buttons. These smart and practical coats of black satin are interlined with wool for warmth, faced deeply with wltchtex stiffening for benefit of silhouette, and lined with soft-tinted soiree silk for daintiness. Chemise and Jacket blouses are ever so much smarter than the old-style blouse which tucked itself under the top of the skirt. The chemise blouse falls to the hip and is girdled at a very low waistline; the Jacket blouse has a belt at the natural waistline and the blouse falls not more than two inches below though it may have longer postilion back. Most of these new Diouses are or crepe de chine or soiree silk, with embroidery in silver threads on the soft material, or silk stitching in two-tone effect. A coffee brown soiree silk blouse stitched in cream color is charming; so is one of soldier blue crepe de chine with silver embroidery. And the feature of soe cial interest in everyone of these pretty blouses is a ' cunningly placed breast pocket. Prettily named and as charming as its cognomen is the blarnle veil, which has a most becoming mesh and irregu larly scattered starfish figures, so fine in their handrun pattern that they blend with the mesh rather than standing out in harsh obviousness of effect. The blarnle is becoming in black and in brown: In taupe shade it flatters eve a middle-aged complexion. One matches one s veil now to one's boots; if they are trim wanting Doots of brown glazed kid, one's veil is trimly pinned oacK ana Drown; if they are smart buttoned dreas '.boots, with light kid top, one s veil matches the tops. Pleasure fiefore Business. When a man marries a woman with money, his business usually begins to head for the rocks. In the October Woman's Home Companion, a writer tells why. He says: "And there is another danger that reaches out for a man who marries money, and clutches him unless he be of superhuman strength. He is lifted by his wif e s money out of the atmos phere of achievement. I have seen it happen again and again. " 'Oh. let's run down to Palm Beach for a month,' she says. But I can my dear; It s the busi est time of the year for us. I must be at the office.' " 'Oh, business, always business. What's the use of driving yourself so hard at business. We don t need tha old money anyway.' " ORNATE RINGS ARE WORN NOW INSTEAD OF GLOVES IN EVENING Jewelry Need Not Necessarily Be of Most Expensive Type, but Must Be Showy and Match Costume in Shading of Colors. i f : ; i: hr" -r ' . - K ,"." ' I 4 --T '. :-.vh ' :.-. : 'It I j . v ' i t 2 V ! t a : S -f.VA'lA Jtr - - v . I ' - i -"'"- , 4 I V - K X 4 ' 2 - t t ' f S ? "V I I ' - : j Li- j 1 FAX RINGS IX VOGUE, f 4 I GLOVES are seldom worn in the evening now and the bare hand offers opportunity for the display of gorgeous rings. The fan ring is a special type designed for theater or restaurant wear It is almost too con spicuous for a quiet game of bridge or an informal dinner. Fans are enormous affairs of plum age and the big rings seen to match them in impressiveness.- The color of the ring is an important feature also; M The It is faultless in repetition, its design and construction- are so perfect that it plays with the slightest pressure on the pedals and enables you to play the music of your favorite composer with all the feel ing he intended you should put into it. You give it the same human, personal, individual interpretation that you would give it if playing by hand on the piano. There is absolutely nothing better, nothing more perfect on the market than the Manualo Player Piano.. It is found exclusively in pianos of Bald win make and is sold in Portland only at our store. Come and try the Manualo. There are many points of excellence. . You should not fail to examine these instruments before buying and compare the Baldwin Quality and Our Prices. We assure you the best, service and convenient terms. Booklets, Catalogues and any desired information regarding our Low-Expense, Low-Price Selling Plan upon request. Portland Piano Tuning, Repairing & Mfg. Co. THE HOUSE OF LOW EXPENSE LOW PRICE HIGH QUALITY 244-46-49 Hawthorne Avenue Just at East End of the Hawthorne Bridge. Tel. East 1072 MATINEES AT METROPOLITAN THEATERS OFFER BEST CHANCE TO STUDY STYLES Fascinating Fur Wraps Are Easily Disposed of in Orchestra Seats New York Girl Wears Her Host Attractive Garb Saturday Afternoons Velvet and Silk Frocks Follow Moyenage Lines Pretty Boots Are Noted. THERE is no place where the out-of-town woman may with more pleasure and profit study the sea son's afternoon fashions than in the foyer of a Metropolitan theater after the Saturday matinee is over and the thronsr of well-dressed women pour out. to disburse, on foot and in limou sine, to various smart restaupants for tea. The New York Elrl wears her bonniest toggery to the Saturday mati nee; the sort of tOKKery her grand mamma used to don for the paying of formal afternoon calls velvet and fur, dainty boot and glove wear an alto gether fetching ensemble. The midweek matinees bring out charming toilettes, too; smart hats and taileurs and luxurious furs; but there is a distinct difference between the midweek matinee and the Saturday matinee. The former enjoyed after a morning's shopping and a hasty lunch eon: one wears one's tailleur and a pretty blouse and afterward hurries the stone inclosed in the handsome setting need not necessarily be price less, but it must carry out the color scheme of the costume, and especially of the fan it accompanies. A feather fan described is in amber and brown tones and on the hand that manipulates it are two stunning fan rings. One is of yellow gold, with a fiilasree carved setting, containing an enormous catseye in the tawny colors of the fan. The second ring has a double setting with topaz and pearls. ANUALO Player Piano That Is All but Human home to dress for dinner and the even-' ing. The Saturday matinee is an event in itself. One puts on one's best for it. and for the afternoon tea and dance that will follow, at some popular res taurant. Bridge parties, musicales and "coming out" teas 'are rarely given on Saturday that afternoon is held sacred as "matinee day" for theater and in cidental restaurant refreshment. In its own way the theater foyer after a matinee is as Inspiring a spec-" tacle as the opera-house carringe foyer of an evening. Instead of glittering jewels, almost equally brilliant gowns and gorgeous wraps, one sees costumes for the street; but street costumes that are the very essence and expressions of beauty and elegance. A. great many of the matinee-goers step into waiting limousines, and one of the interesting features of matinee day to the afore mentioned out-of-town visitor Is the arrival of the little dogs in the big limousines. The luxurious equipage draws up at the carriage entrance, chauffeur and footman on the driving seat and within on the pale gray or plum-colored or fawn-tinted cushions. Fldo, or Toko or Lillypop, ears cocked. little nose pressed against the glass. come to meet his mistress. Llmonnlae Wraps Are Dainty. When one is whisked to the matinee in a heated limousine and then whisked away to a restaurant and so on home again, one does not absolutely require a heavy, warmth-giving coat; so mati nee wraps are dainty affairs, just heavy enough to give the Winter suggestion to a light frock. It is easy to take care of these little wraps in a'crowdtd orchestra seat where one must stow away wrap. hat. muff and handbag somehow or other in order to enjoy the play with an undivided mind. Charming matinee scarves are of col ored pontine, the waxed. , leather-like side trimmed with appliques and strap pings of the reverse side, in silk, satin or cloth. A wrap of rich blue pontine. reverse of gray satin, has a border in the Greek key pattern done with the gray satin and outlined with tiny steel beads, and gray fox fur edges the wrap, outside the appliqued design. Another fetching matinee wrap is in cape form and is made of black velvet, a straight strip of velvet falling below the cl boas, fitted to the shoulders by rows of corded shirrings. This wrap has a collar of skunk fur and a shirred vel vet muff to match has a single band of fur running around its middle, the shirred velvet on either side a new fashion whimsey this, worthy of note. Sometimes wrap, muff and hat match; the milliners are all putting out these captivating three-piece sets for mati nee wear, and the lining of the cape, pelisse or scarf is always an important detail, for such a wrap shows off its inner side conspicuously at the theater and in the restaurant afterward. Flow ered linings, or silks with bold, bi zarre patterns are not as fashionable for wrap linings now as pastel tints or self-toned brocades. Soiree silk inn orchid, tulip and coral shades, satin in flesh tone or daffodil yellow, and other soft, satiny stuffs are used for linings. Frorka of Silk and Velvet. One notes, at the tea places where dancing is Indulged in after the mati nee, that frocks are decidedly longer. Silk hosiery is not as obvious as it was on the dancing floor a year ago; still the edge of the frock scarcely more than covers the top of the buttoned boot, even now, though some advanced models show skirts to the instep. Pret tier and prettier grows the formal boot, and of course the matinee cos tume calls for the very prettiest boots one owns. Dancing boots these, though they venture out of doors even upon damp pavements and your bred-in-the-bone New Yorker disdains "rub bers." One wonders Indeed, who does wear the thousands of gum-shoes sold by the shops rarely are they met with on Fifth avenue or the adjacent streets in the region of the big theaters. Women used to go to the extravagance of caba to protect their hats; now they hop into taxis when wet pavements threaten their exquisite shoes. Formal footwear with matinee costumes Is al ways of the buttoned type, and the smoothly fitted, buttoned top of glazed kid or cloth Is unusually, lighter than the vamp of tobasco-brown, gunmetal or black glazed kid. Moyenage lines prevail In the arter noon frocks one sees at the matinees. Some' wiseacre darkly predicted that the Moyenage. overdone in September, would not outlast October, but it has been retained for afternoon costumes, though evening frocks show the high, small waistline. Brown, gray and taupe are the colors of distinction for afternoon. It appears; satin, crepe me teor, solres silk and velvet the dis tinctive fabrics for "little frocks." Many of these models are trimmed with fur and when there is a small fur wrap to accompany the costume the ensemble is charming. Tucks in all widths, from one-sixteenth of an inch to three inches, are fashionable and a word of warning is in season for tha woman who buys a ready-made silk frock. Be sure that the tucks are sewed with silk thread, not cotton a deplorable method of some manufac turers who take advantage of woman's carelessness to make a petty profit out of the cheap cotton stitching. The well dressed woman, accustomed to the best that big dressmakers produce, will In stantly dotect such a medicore detail of workmanship and judge a frock and its wearer thereby even if the wearer be serenely unconscious that her cos tume advertises itself in this manner. The quality of the lace of chiffon used in the chemisette and collar is another point of importance. No bodice should bear upon lace that shames the costly brooch that fastens it. Close to Marjorle. "Penurious? What does that mean, dad?" "Penurious means close, my lad." "You're richt then, dad, in telling us That Mr. Brown's penurious. Last nisht well. I can tell you he Was awfully so to Marjorie." Kucene C. Dolson, in "Fun and Frolic," in the People's Home Journal for October. DON'T HAVE YOUR CHILD SUFFER As This One Did. Try Cuticura at Once. It Quickly Soothes and Heals. "When my little girl was about two years old, eczema broke out on her face and hands. It broke out in a rash, itching and causing her to scratch and irritate it till she was verv cross. ' 'Several different rem edies were used but she got no relief as it grew worse and disfigured her lace very much. Altertwo years I got a cake of Cuti cura Soap and a box of Cuticura Ointment and in about three weeks her face was healed and no trace has appeared since." (Sijrned) Mrs. Charles Miller.W ebb, Colo.,March616. A little care, a little patience, the use of Cuticura Soap and no other on the skin for every-day toilet purposes, with touches of Cuticura Ointment, now and then, to any pimples, rashes, redness, roughness or damlruff often means a clear, healthy skin, clean scalp and good hair through life. Sample Each Free by Mall With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad dress post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. H, Boston." Sold throughout the world. Just Try This When Hairy Growths Appear (Modes of Today) A smooth, hairless skin always fol lows the use of a paste made by mix ing some water with plain powdered delatone. This paste is applied to the hairy surface 2 or 3 minutes, then rubbed off and the skin washed, when every trace of hair will have vanished. No pain or discomfort attends the use of the delatone paste, but caution should be exercised to be sure that you get real delatone. Adv. M 'id K'llll!1'-