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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 29, 1916)
V TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 29, 1916. V MO YENAGE TUNIC HELD ON SHOULDERS BY STRAPS OF JET BEADS IS OF BROCADED SATIN Beneath Snperb Overdress Is Skirt of Heavy Gold Lace Clouds of Golden Tulle Seem to Have Poised About the Shoulders, Forming Bodice, and Floating Tulle la Caught at Wrist Under Bracelet of Jet. : k- .11' ( . I I r f II j . - v -1 i ; u I M: : mr WW - r - era -i .- : 9 1 I ? - ,. J II r - . i n 1 1 1 1 mi i L . i i II I " ! - f r I Ml! Ml' B ; 4 5 ' I I -.vim: . i r , - i 1 1 ii ii ; : m ' i - : ' v , , - . - : I ;n 1 1 1 if 1 t t tx f fl ;ll ' , A i I MMIM I I'l t - v , , f ' I II Ml II If ri .11 r.v -.rv. ?i i Mill ii i a 4 i , i- I I "l" I i ' ! I I - x 1 - . 1 1 1 MM I I c J,' I I "i - l AIL 11 I i X i ill -f x K 1 t ? - - i 1 nun t - fa- v j . ... ;Y ! H ! . ) y f 7 - i 1 1 'ill r 'f s - r a k- On! t,4ii v' . . r m- 'm um - ; if '-e-- f -:io - r- .....- I ' i I i THE Moj'enagre tunic, held to the shoulders by straps of Jet beads. Is of black satin brocaded with splendid golden roses. Beneath this superb over-dress is a skirt of heavy erold lace. Clouds of golden tulle seem to have poised about the shoulders to form a bodice, and the floating- tulle Is caught at the wrist under a bracelet of Jet. Even the great feather fan is in golden tone, and, with her gorgeous gown, she wears gold-colored stockings and slippers of gold cloth. If one cannot have a fur evening wrap this season, velvet is selected; in deed, some of of the new velvet even ing wraps are far more beautiful for evening wear than fur could be. A chasuble wrap, with its graceful ripple drapery at the back, is of sapphire blue velvet with a lining of gold-colored eatin, veiled with chiffon of the same shade. The lining makes a splendid background for gold and black brocade, when the wrap is thrown open. The collar and cuffs in, the typical muffler Style of the season, are of chinchilla. There Is such distinction In a mink coat that it may be worn with propriety as an evening wrap over an opera cos tume. The very epitome of elegance is a mink coat made of beautiful, dark, matched skins arranged in striped pat tern at the border, on the sleeve, and In a daep, pointed yoke effect. Mink, is the fur of furs to carry out the gold collar scheme of this season; the pelt shades from golden brown to deep brown, almost black, and -the gra dation of tones is most beautiful. A fiie frock is of white tulle and gold lace, with slippers of white glazed kid decorated with little gold buckles." "one no trump" overbids "one nullo-,' if the heart value be used, "one heart' overbids "one nullo." Two nullos," however, are required to overbid "one no trump," and "two nullos" to overbid "one heart." The successful player of a nullo can never win the odd trick. The number of tricks you name in your bid repre sents the number of tricks (tricks over and above the book, be it understood) that you expect to force upon your op ponents. To state it differently, by subtracting the number of tricks you name in your bid from seven, the odd trick, you get the number of tricks you may win and yet be successful at a nullo. A bid of "one nullo," for in stance, means that you may take six tricks (the book), one from seven be ing six; a bid of two "nullos, that you may take five tricks, two from seven being five; a bid of "three nullos," that you may win four tricks, three from seven being four, and so on. If you take a greater number of tricks than the number you contract to lose, you are penalized 50 points per trick, as Uk losses in the game proper. If you take fewer tricks than the number you con tract to lose, you get value for each under trick. As to what cards should constitute the honors at nullo has been tae sub ject of more or less controversy, some contending they should be the four deuces, others the four aces (as in the positive no trumpet), others again that it be played without honors. The ma jority favor the four aces; however, they are scored Inversely, that is, to the side not holding them; the four aces, therefore (divided) are held by the opponents, the value 40. Is record ed in the honor score of the player, and vice versa. As at the other declara tions, one double and one redouble are permitted. In view of the facility with which l tricks get away from one under ordi nary conditions, at first blush it would seem that nullo is an exceedingly simple game, one in which the veriest tyro would Inevitably come out to the good. No greater fallacy can possibly exist, as numbers who have had their fingers burned in the attempt can fully attest. In reality, it is one of the most difficult of games, and in thi very fact lies perhaps the chief ob jection to Its adoption in the game proper, one of the underlying motives influencing the committee who revised the laws being a desire to simplify the game, and thus make it attractive to beginners. It can but be admitted. however. that nullo Is an exceedingly diverting game, unique in conception, brilliant in possibilities, and replete with sur prises, unexpected contretemps, un looked-for developments. though losses may be piling up against you, and you find yourse taking trick after trick with cards that you had supposed were invulner able and you had thought to force upon your opponents there Is no game, by the way, which can go so badly wrong as the nullo, when It does go wrong there is something almost ludicrous, even mirth-provoking at times, in the startling, unexpectedness of it, and you involuntarily catch your Dreath and wonder how it all hap pened. Contrariwise, the feeling of ex ultation you experience when you make gooa at a nullo is so much greater than that you experience when making good at the ordinary bid as scarcely to De compared with it. In auction proper it is usually easy to detect your errors, to put your fin ger, as it were, upon the special play or plays responsible for your defeat. In the nullo this Is not so, and herein lies another point of objection to it adoption, it being claimed that you ge no experience from the play which will be or help at some future time. It Is computed that the chance to bid a nullo develops perhaps once in the course of an afternoon or evening's piay, or once in three ordinary rubbers. You will bid a nullo much oftener than you will play it, and in this very fact, its effective use as a forcer, lies one of its special claims to distinction. You will not infrequently score pen alties as the result of your nullo bid on hands which, without the nullo. would Inevitably demand a pass, and so enable- the opponent, by securing Husband Complains About His Wife's Figure. N the October "Woman's Home Com panion, tne fashion editor prints some interesting letters she has re ceived from women telling her their dress troubles. She says: "Here Is another woman, with a rea sonable husband. At least, so he prob ably thinks. She writee: "I am turning to you in despair. Miss Gould; do help me to dress stylishly. once my four babies come I have grown quite stout and have lost my girlisn figure, yet my husband expects me to look Just as I cia wnen we were married.' "Really, I should like to have writ ten this husband and, if I had, this is about what I would have said: 'If your wife has no longer the slender figure of her youth, remember she has the dignity of motherhood, aid with a little more time and money to spend on her clotr.es might look Juet as fascinating as the young girl you married. " 'But how about yourself, my poo l sir? Are you still the handsome, trim young fellow she fell in love with? I.n't iheie a little bald spot now wh re the abundant locks used to be? And J Fh V OF Corsets 'AND Service TIIE great fame and world-wide popularity of Nemo Corsets is due to EXCLUSIVE, INTRINSIC MERIT alone. We have never had to tell you that Nemo is the favorite corset of this or that artist or actress, or other professional 'recommender," whose approval of almost anything costs little and is worth less. The troth it that the best-dressed women in America, as well as in the fashion capitals cf Earope, have long preferred Nemo Corsets; and that the Nemo has been sold for years, in ever increasing quantities, in the greatest high-class store in Paris, ahere no other American corset has ever gained a foothold. NEMO STANDARD is the INTERNATIONAL Standard. NEMO MODELS FOR THREE DISTINCT FULL TYPES CC3 W0NDERLIFT, for very short, heavy women with much excess flesh. Adjustable WonderliftBandlet upiits abdo men, reshapes and reduces the figure. Great for the stocky woman who "just can't wear a long corset," Sizes fcr rr 22 to 36 4J.UU 2 O A SELF-REDUCING. for -'(J stout women with much flesh at back and on hips. Self Reducing Straps control and reduce excess flesh, reshape the figure. Elastic gores at back make the skirt easy and com fortable in any position. 7C Sires 22 to 36 JpJ.J GOOD STORES EVERYWHERE ACyi SELF -REDUCING. for fuii figures of medium height, flesh evenly distributed. Nemo Relief Bands take up, reduce and support the abdomen from underneath; elastic bands at back insure ease. Medium in all proportions. Sizes j. qq Tkt Nem Hytitnic-FmshioK Institute, New York, V. S. A. G-P 11 his bid at a low contract, to make good. A nullo bid should not. as a rule, be ventured unless all four suits are protected. A chance, though, may be taken on three protected suits, provid ed the hand is not the one to be ex posed, and does not assure more than two, or, at the most, three, tricks. Pro tection at nullo means protected weak ness, hirrh, or dangerous, cards so well guarded by small ones, twos and threes, that you may play under whenever the suit Is led. As aces and kings are essential in a positive no trumper, so deuces and treys are essential to the nullo. Missing suits are a valuable asset, as they often admit of the dis card of high, or dangerous, cards of other suits; cards which otherwise might force you into the lead. Two card suits also are desirable, long suits, topped by high, or commanding, cards are no deterrent to a nullo bid, provided, as has been explained, they are so well guarded by low cards as that you may avoid taking a trick in the suit. The bete noir of the nullo playir are hands wherein the lowest cards are cards of intermediate -value, as sixes, sevens, eights, etc. One of the maxims of the nullo play er is that if you must take tricks with certain cards, you should take them early, before there is the danger of being in the lead at a critical stage when you have only winning cards to lead. As it Is Important to retain the com mand of the opponent's suit at no trump, so in nullo it is of the utmost importance to hold the exit, or get away, cards, as the deuce, the trey, or the lowest unplayed card of a suit, whatever its value, so long as you still hold cards of the suit. Converse ly, it is often well to continue the lead of a suit, provided there is no chance that you may be able to discard it, until the lower cards of the suit held adversely have been forced, lou are never safe so long as the exit cards of a suit are held against you. As this subject requires more elab oration than I had anticipated, de spite the fact that 1 am treating it as briefly as possible, I will reserve the remaining features for another issue. MIDDY BLOUSE IS BASIS FOR NEW MODELS DESIGNED BY FAMOUS PARISIAN MODISTES Favorite Style of Summer Apparel Being Adapted to Use in Fall and Winter by Being Made of Heavier Ma terial With Sash of Same Material Dark Colors Are Receiving Most Attention. Or hasn't the strap of your vest grown v bit longer? "'Suppose you had borne and brought up four children. Do you think you wcuZd look Just as you did when yoj w arc married? It seems to me you have missed the secret of happy married life, which Is. reciprocity. " 'Try ' lc put yourself, sometimeu in your wife'-s place, instead of cn t-nuaily trying to put lier In com nlacb in -which she does not fit'" Ns UI ! ,Q, that is, a declaration to lose tricks was brought to the 1 attention at the auction-playing world in 1913, the first articles written On the subject appearing in the Chi cago Tribune in February and March of that year. They were from the pen of A. R. Metcalfe, a well-known au thority on auction and kindred games and the author of a number of Impor tant works on the subjects. Fred C. Thwaltes, of Milwaukee, at one time president"" of the American Whist Whist Ijeague, was the originator of the nullo. Nullos, whereby you contract to Ipse rather than to win tricks, were a de cided innovation, and, as might be ex pected, created quite a stir. In some sections of the country, especially the Middle West, they at once sprang into favor and were universally adopted. By others they were received coldly from the start. Perhaps no subject which came up - for consideration by the New York Whist Club at the time the laws of auction were revised in 1915 received more careful and serious attention than the nullo. In spite, however, of their exceeding fascina tion and the many strong points ad duced in their favor, the decision was almost unanimous that they be not adopted as an integral part of the game. Notwithstanding this verdic. so great was their hold upon certain players they they are still played to a greater or less extent, always, how ever, with the understanding that they are supplementary to the game, not a part of it. and never without the sanc tion of all the players engaged. Because of their continued popular ity and the fact that many of the re cent books on auction give them more or less space," I feel a1 brief discussion concerning them will not come amiss. As has been started, nullo is a dec laration to lose tricks; it Is an inver sion of all the other calls: a negative no trumper. Miss Florence Irwin, the brilliant auction correspondent for many years of the New York Times and one of the ablest exponents of the nullo in the country, refers to them as "an artistic triumph." Nullo owes its inception to a desire as far as possi ble to equalize hands; to give the poor holders a chance; as nearly as can be done to eliminate luck and make the game one in which all players, whether holding good or bad hands, may have something to say as to the bidding and play of the hands. The value best suited to the peculiat requirements of the nullo has always been more or less a subject of contro versy. Numberless values were sug gested at the start, but after betnif tried and found wanting, the matter j piece finally simmered down to a choice De tween 10, the value of the no trump, and eigTit, the value of the heart. Of the two-values, the no trump value, 10. has perhaps the greater number of adherents. Whichever be used, the correlative- value- takes the -precedence: , that is, if the no trump value be used. F THE many blouses made to wear tslde the skirt, the sport blouse middy or coast style, with the fullness held in at the waist by a sash of self material will be given its share of attention, for after a Summer's trial it has proved itself an extremely wel come and ha"ndy form of separate waist, and as a Winter blouse it ought to be as suitable in crepe de chine or soft woolen as was Its wash sister on the Summer fields of sport. In fact, a marked favor he's been shown this Summer to the separate waist. It has been worn .with suits, with the popular sport skirts, and as fashionable adjuncts to most any kind of sport or dressy costume. This vogue promises to continue into Fall and Win ter, and new ideas are already being in troduced in dark tone waists to blend with the new somber suit colors, which are to be characteristic of our Winter garb, for from Paris the word has gone forth that dark colors are to predomi nate. To Join the simple and practical type of sport blouse. Paris has- launched some more extreme models built up on the middy and basque styles, the most ultra of which are the taffeta designs, close-fitting, and reaching to the knees In length, while fastening down the front with a row of buttons. Both outside and inside finishes will be warm, and the styles will be as vari ous in type as are other items of . fash ionable apparel now, when no one land or one period seems to be able to focus the attention of fashionable designers. There are also, models on the basque order with fitted backs and dark fronts quaint and unusual in character. The basque type by the way, both name and style come from the Spanish peas ant Is of much more medium length than are the middy and coat models. Another design which Is being given some attention by such Parisian design era as Chrlstlane is that where the out side finish is but little longer than a girdle and extends only a couple of inches or so below the waistline. This model is usually made with a lining which Blips in under the skirtband and holds all in decorous place. There Is knee-length model in two shades of light and dark gray taffeta. It is combination of the Russian blouse and those models of sllp-over-the-head silk Jersey blouses worn In the Autumn Here the blouse is opened aown as lar as the waistline in front and fastened with taffeta-covered buttons. The col lar falls into a peasant hood shape in back, lined with the darker gray and the sash belt of taffeta crosses In back. A hem of darker gray completes the buttons. Sleeves Set Low. The sleeves are set low in a roomy armhole and are closely fitted btlow the elbow, while long over the hand. Another blouse Is of navy blue chif fon, trimmed with rows of fine tucking and blue taffeta. The outside finish of the girdle is here obtained by means of fancy straps buttoning over a set-on of taffeta. The center front, however, buttons quite down to th edge of the waist, and there is a tiny chemisette vest and fancy stock col lar of cream color satin. A novel touch is the use of a short full puff of taffeta at the upper part of the long and close fitting sleeve. A third model la a basque of black taffeta a material much favored for the Fall waist and is cut with a mod erately long basque skirt at back and sides, but with the front line curving up to the waist belt. The back is tight fitting, though there is a flare to the basque below the waist. The sleeves seem to be cut down into a slight cap hape over the shoulder while follow ing the curve of the arm underneath. The sleeve itself is of a three-quar- er length, and this is a bit unusual in season when long sleeves are said to be about to prevail almost exclusively. The little frills set in at the lower edge of the sleeve are characteristic of a rimming scheme now in vogue; one which has been made use of for outlin ing placket holes on dress skirts as well as for sleeve openings and for ancy waist slashes. Dark Co lorn Modlnh. As has been said, the colors for Fall and Winter will tend very strongly to ward dark and rich hues. Such colors in suits and dress goods as mahogany, dark blues of a greenish cast, dark greens, taupes and grays, purples and the purplish reds, such as catawba. plum and mulberry, as well as dark browns, on the order of Java and Af rican brown, are mentioned freely. That separate waists will also partake of this movement toward dark colors Is predicted by Paris, and already the darker waists are being shown here in America, for suit and dress colors are so closely connected with waists that a Btrong influence is always exerted. Such dark colors, then, as navy blue. steel gray, brown, and deep red. are being made- use of for semi-tailored taffeta and satin waists, while the lighter blues, grays and tana are em ployed for more dressy models In chif fon and crepe de chine, and the pastel shades are retained for sheer models in chiffons, laces and nets. Dark-colored silks with white or bril llant colored stripes are among the novelties being employed for the long blouse models, as well as for those on the basque order. Color is also often introduced In trimming of contrasting fabrics as well as in the new wool em broidery stitches and braiding in Bilk or metal threads. The all-white blouse in lace and chif fon for dressy wearing will also be used, and white blouses trimmed with a touch of color will come In for some hare of attention. Pastel Shades Popular. Then, too, the pastel shades In wash satin and wash crepe de chine have quite endeared themselves to the gen eral public In such practical models as require washing and they will likely be retained. Of these light shades, gray, blue, maise, wistaria, pink and flesh color are favorites. The leading waist fabrics will prob ably remain without any very novel In troductions. Crepe de chine has no rival for the practical all-around blouse and will hold its own place, as it has for season after season. We will likely see the reflection in the waist field of the renewed favor about to be shown the satin-surfaced silk, so that the waists of satin, messuiine and charmeuse will outnumber the silks having a corded weave, such as faille Wash satins will be used for the white and pastel waists ani regulation satin for darker models. Dark colored taf fetas promise to be much In demand for those newest of Paris models in long outside-the-sklrt styles. For these and for the basque blouses fancy dark patterns in taffetas having a vivid stripe of color running through the lomber ground are advocated. These, too, will doubtless prove attractive lor the severe tailored waist for wear with walking and street suits. Sheer silk crepe de chine, chiffon, silk Jersey cloth, lace, net and voile will be made use of for the dressy waists. aists of colored voile will often show white collars, cuffs, vests, buttons or embroidery. MATCHING OF TABLE LINEN WITH CHINA IS NOVEL IDEA While Critics See Good Qualities in Novelty, Danger of Monotony Is Point ed Out as Striking Disadvantage. Displays, However, Are Attractive. Too Much Jam. Our boys went down to Mexico To fight for Uncle Sam: Straightway some Joker sent back word The lads were needing Jam. Sweet sympathy crept in the hearts Of every soldier's "mam": At once they sent by fast express Their treasured stores of Jam. Some two carloads In full was sent; 'Twas more than they could cram , Into those lads already full Of good corned beef and ham. They "Jam'd" until they couldn't rest. And it became a bore; Till home they wrote with aching hearts "Please don't ship any more. "We're filled up with good solid food. Potatoes, beef and Iamb: For goodness sake, whate'er you send. Don't send us any Jam!" K. N. COY. V; . t J LINENS TO MATCH OXE'S C1IISAWARE. THE display of dinner sets for Autumn brides in a big shop win dow recently was accompanied by a companion display of dining-room linens embroidered to match the va rious patterns on the chinaware. The idea is attractive, though there Is dan ger of monotony in this notion of hav ing linens and crockery alike. For occasional luncheons or afternoon tea tables, however, linens embroidered to match the china would be rather de lightful. The Interesting display included lunch cloths, table runners, sets of doilies and even table cloth. ered at the center and in border effect. me ooraer aestgned to come Just Inside the plates on a round table set for six or eight. The embroidery was dainty rather than heavy, and the colors re produced those on thegchina; delicate pink rose Bavarian designs, Japanese porcelain effects, Limoges patterns. with gold, colored silk embroidery to imitate the gold always used so plenti fully on Limoges china, and English patterns, some wnn oiras. and one beautiful set of linens In the blue Eng- us a weagwooa color. SkinTortured Babies Sleep After Cuticora It's really wonderful how quickly a hot bath with Cuticura Soap followed by a gentle anointing with Cuticura Oint ment relieves itching, burning eczemas, rashes and chafings, permits sleep tor infant and rest for mother, and points to speedy healment in most cases when it seems nothing would do any good. This is only one of the many things Cu ticura does for the skin. Use them for every-day toilet purposes and have a clear skin, clean scalp, good hair and soft hands. Samples free by return mail for the asking. Address post card: "Cuticura," Dept. 15F, Bos Ion. Sold everywhere.