-the
SUNDAY
OREGOXIAN, PORTtAJm, OCTOTJETt 29, I91C
DECOLLETAGE IS EXTREME THIS REASON; EVEN. .
FOR DEBUTANTES, ACCORDING TO VOGUg'S DECREE
Opera Costumes Open at Back Down to Waistline Black Evening Gowns All the Rage, but These Must Scintillate
With Jet or Iridescent Sequins Bead Shoulder Straps Carry Out Effect. .
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A RATHER extreme fashion is the
"hiked up" skirt, much fancied by
very young women Just now.
This opera costume for a debutante is
of flesh pink soiree silk and gold lace.
Tiny gold roses outline the skirt, which
is drawn up at the front over a petti
coat of gold lace. The wrap an im
portant item in the opera costume is
of pale turquoise velvet lined with
Bold colored soiree and trimmed with
skunk fur and gold tassels.
The decolletege of the opera costume
Is often carried to an extreme or
rather to the waistline at the back.
One model Just escapes that, but the
decolletege is sufficiently modish for
an opera appearance. The puffed skirt
of shimmering white soiree silk is
lifted to show sold lace dropped over
white chiffon. The trimly fitted bodice
of gold cloth fastens at the side under
a big' golaen rose. The ostrich fan is
in deep gold tone.
Paris has bestowed the nod of ap
proval on black evening gow'ns, but
there must be gleam and glitter to
break the blackness if the gown is to
pass muster as smart. Many of these
costumes are fairly loaded with Jet or
iridescent Bequins and one model is an
example. A band of Jet pallettes
weights the black tulle skirt and a
floating tulle overskirt is held in abey
ance by long swinging panels of Jet.
The bodice is entirely of Jet with slen
der bead straps over the shoulders. A
gold rose and gold colored feather fan
add the seasonable note.
8,000,000 Women
Every Day.
THE Business of Getting a Husband
has been superseded now by the
business of earning money. That is the
opinion of millions of women, and the
October Woman's Home Companion
tells how they do it. It says ,in part:
"As late as 50 years ago, a girl's life
was marked by a certain simplicity of
purpose. Her business was to get a
husband! Never mind what kind. Just
get him! It was a terrible thing to be
called an 'old maid.' Also, aside from
the ridicule of spinsterhood, there was
the added fact that it involved de
pendency on some tolerant relative.
Who doesn't remember the 'old maid'
aunts of our childhood, always busy,
flitting over the house in cap and
shawl, and getting their happiness in
the happiness of others. Why, they
were old women at 40!
"What else was there for them to do
except to marry? The professions and
trades were closed to them, business
had not yet opened its doors, and the
stage was regarded as not being 'quite
nice. Woman's one place was 'the
home,' and if she didn't have one, that
was her fault.
"Less than B0 years ago! Today
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one-half cup salt to one gallon water.
Let stand over night. Drain well and
steam a few minutes until tender. Mix
meanwhile one and one-half cups
sugar and one cup flour with two ta-1
Dlespoonfuls dry mustard, one table
spoon turmeric (or if liked hot, one
teaspoon turmeric and two teaspoons
curry powder), mix to a, paste with
water, dilute with two quarts boiling
vinegar and cook until resembling
boiled custard. Add steamed vegeta
bles, put into hot Jars and seal at
once.
India relish No. 2 Take equal parts
green peppers, green tomatoes and cu
cumbers (without seeds), all chopped zo
the size of peas. To each gallon of the
mixture- add one cup salt, mix thor
oughly and hang in a bag to drain over
night. For each gallon allow two I
quarts vinegar, one ounce cloves, one
ounce mace: boll these together 20 min
utes. Remove the spice and add one
tablespoon white pepper, two table
spoons ground mustard, one teaspoon
groound ginger, one cup sugar, with
cayenne to taste. Scald the chopped and
drained pickles in this and can while
hot. If preferred peppercorns, mustard
seed and whole ginger may be used in
stead of the ground spices. In this case
boll them with the cloves and mace in
small dabs, leaving one In each pickle
Jar. A little celery seed may also be
used, if liked, either loose through the
pickles or in the bags.
India relish Take two quarts each
firm, green tomatoes, chopped fine.
without seeds, fresh, firm pickling cu
cumbers, chopped nne, four nice fresh
ly seeded sweet peppers, chopped fine.
and six small red pickling peppers, one
fourth cup white mustard seed, one tea
spoon each cloves, peppercorns and al-
splce berries, two inches stick cinna
mon and a small piece of ginger, one
cup sugar,- one tablespoon curry pow
der, vinegar to cover. Cover the chopped
vegetables with brine to float an egg
and let stand 24 "hours. Drain and press
dry a little In a colander, steam over
hot water until tender. Meanwhile boll
the vinegar, which should be strong
and fine flavored, as much depends
upon It. with the whole spices tied in
a bag and the little red peppers, finely
chopped and loose in the vinegar. Mix
the vegetables thoroughly with the
mustard seed (a little more may be used
if liked), add to the vinegar with the
sugar and curry powder, boil up once
and seal In glass Jars. Taste before
canning in order to be sure that it is
sweet enough or acid enough, or hot
enough for your own preference, and
season acordingly. Use a little cayenne
if a very hot pickle is liked. If you
have a little more vinegar than is nec
essary for packing firmly into the Jars,
save it for another relish. The addition
of a little celery seed is liked by many
people.
LOXO BEACH, Cal., Oct. Jl. What ii
the recelpe for making maraschino cher-
rleT . MKS. W. M. .
Maraschino cherries, of the commer
cial color and texture, cannot be satis
factorily made at home. The fruit has
usually to be bleached in sulphur fumes
from six to 12 hours. It is then artifi
cially toughened and dyed. Glucose is
often used as filling in the Imported
cherries. A cherry preserve that tastes
good and is quite wholesome, though
not so brilliantly decorative as the
commercial maraschino cherry, is pre
pared as follows:
Homemade maraschino cherries
Stone firm, white cherries very care-.
fully, breaking the fruit as little as
possible. Allow three-fourths pound
sugar for each pound of fruit and one
cup of water for every two cups sugar.
Heat the syrup to boiling point and
skim it. Pack- the cherries into the Jars
and add some of the syrup, but do not
quite fill up the cans. Set on a rack in a
wash boiler In hot water. Adjust the
covers: cover the kettle and let boll IS
minutes, counting from when boiling
begins. When the cherries are well
scalded and tend to settle a little, the
Jars may be opened and filled up from
one Jar. Then and to each can from one-
half to one cup maraschino, seal and
boll 15 minutes more. Let the Jars cool
a little in the water before removing.
Pink fruit color may be added to the
syrup If liked.
Mint cherries may be similarly made.
navormg tne syrup witn spearmint or
peppermint extract or using some
creme de menthe in place of the maras
chino.
SUFFRAGE, STRIKE AND WEDDINGS BRING
PROMINENT WOMEN INTO SPOTLIGHT
Frances Jolliffe Heads Pacific Coast District of Congressional Union for Suffrage Margaret Hinchey Thinks
Labor Should Resort to Force Miss Norma Mack Engaged Margaret Draper to Be Italian's Bride.
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CES JOLLIFFE la chairman off II I . II II J
M the Pacific Coast district of the I I SZ"' ' " S. I III
JL. rAn.,.u.. tti A xr - I I I SJz..' Jill
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RANCES JOLLIFFE Is chairman of
the Pacific Coast district of the
Congressional Union for Woman
Suffrage. It was she. who. with Mrs.
Sara Bard Field, brought the enormous
Pacific Coast petition to Congress by
motor car.
The striking streetcar men of New
Tork held a mass meeting in Union
Square recently and 'were addressed by
Margaret Hinchey, one of the most
militant of the women Socialist speak
ers in New York. Miss Hinchey does
not believe in the peaceful efforts . of
the car men. Like Mother Jones, she
believes they and their wives should
win by violence. ,
.
The engagement of Miss Normal
Mack, of Buffalo, has .Just been an-1
nounced. the is the beautiful daugh
ter of Norman Mark, once chairman of
the Democratic National Committee.
Homemade maraschino cherries No. 2 She will marry Philln Metx. of Omaha.
Stone the cherries carefully, place in I a graduate of Vale, of the class of 1S15.
jars and nil up with maraschino. Let I
stand two days. Drain and add to the I Margaret Draper, whose father was
liquor an equal quantity of heavy sugar I AmDassador to Italy, and whose god
syrup boiled almost to the soft ball, I mother is Dowager Queen Margh'erita.
strain and pour this over the fruit, let
ting stand 12 hours. Fill up any re
maining space with syrup. Then seal.
I would not recommend the making
of maraschino cherries at home. Can
died cherries are easier to do and are
much more wholesome and useful and
less expensive. Candied cherries, soaked
a few hours in maraschino, make
good substitute for maraschino cher
ries, except of course, for the artificial
color.
LOS ANGFLES, Cal., Oct. 14. I once was
a pupil In domestic science but things do
not ork out now that I roust practice in
earnest, tl) In a reclpt for wjilie bride'
of that country, has been married to I
Count Boncompagnl. of Italy, In Wash
ington. Miss Draper was wooed by
several tiried Italians but hr fancy
chose Count Boncompagnl. whom she
has known since her childhood. Miss
Draper Is enormously wealthy and has
homes In Boston and Washington. She
has been in New York recently select
ing her trousseau.
The Countess Scheherr-Thoss was
Muriel White. She is the daughter of
Henry White, for so many years Sec
retary of the Kmbassy at London and
afterward Ambassador to Italy and to
France.
Mrs. Ellhu Root. Jr.. is the daughter-in-law
of the well-known attorney and
ex-Senator, who thought for a time he
was a candidate for the Republican
nomination for President. Mrs. Root
lives in New York, but she has spent
much of her life in Washington, where
she is now a frequent visitor. As Alida
Stryker she was considered a beauty
and was a grent social favorite.
recipe for good fruit cake. MRS. 8. F. 6.
Several fruit cake recipes have re
cently appeared. The two following
are both good. Let me know if you
wanted something plainer, or if you
wanted light fruit cake.
Dark Wedding Cake One pound
butter, one pound brown sugar, 12 eggs,
one cup molasses, one pound flour, four
teaspoon cinnamon, four teaspoons
alspice, one and one-half teaspoons
mace, one nutmeg grated, one-fourth
teaspoon soda, three pounds seeded
and cut raisins, two pounds Sultana
cake can you r" misprint? Two level raisin, one and one-half pounds citron
8,000,000 women are at work, figuring land telegraph linesmen. No avenue is
in every department of human en-1 closed to them; and society not only
deavor. There are more than 400 occu ' admits woman's right to a sane indi
pations, I believe, and women'are to be I viduality, but encourages her in the
found in all except railroad engineers I development of her capabilities."
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE. .
PORTLAND, Or., Oct. 1. Will you kindly
give at your earliest convenience some
rt-ctpes for chopped pickles, called pica
lillle? Thanking you. MRS. E. B. S.
Several other correspondents have
requested "chopped pickle" or "India
relish" recipes.
Folowing are a few "chopped pickle"
recipes, all classed as "piccalilli." "In
dia relish" 'and "piccalilli" are both
rather vague overlapping terms, and
capable of many variations. 1 hope,
however, you will all find something
like what you had in mind in this col
lection. Piccalilli ' 1 One-half bushel green
tomatoes, one-half peck green peppers,
one-half peck onions, two medium
sized cabbages, one and one-half - cups
salt, three pounds brown- sugar, one
pound white mustard seed, six ouncei
stick cinnamon, three ounces cloves,
two ounces allspice, vinegar to cover.
Wash the tomatoes ana peppers, peel
the onions, quarter the cabbage and
chop each vegetable separatelyi cover
and let stand overnight. Drain and add
the sugar and mustard seed. Place in a
preserving kettle, add vinegar to cover
and the spices tied in a bag. Simmer
six hours. Remove the spice bag and
seal the mixture in glass Jars.
Piccalilli 2 Three dozen small cu
cumbers, one small head of cabbage,
two quarts small string beans, three
bunches of celery, three red peppers,
three green peppers, tw,o heads of cau
liflower, one-half teaspoon ground
mace, one-half teaspoon ground al
spice, one-half teaspoon ground gin
ger, - one teaspoon - black - pepper.i two
ounces mustard seed, one clove garlic,
vinegar to cover. Chop all the vege
tables rather fine, after cleaning; cover
with salted water and let stand 24
hours. Drain and press dry in a col
ander. Pack into Jars, heat the vinegar
with the spices. Pour hot over the veg
etables and seal at once. 1
Piccalilli 3 One-half peck green to
matoes, sliced, two quarts "fine chopped
cabbage, six green peppers, chopped,
one quart small white onions, sliced,
one cup sugar, two tablespoons Eng
lish mustard, one tablespoon celery
seed, vinegar to cover. Sprinkle one
cup salt over the vegetables, let stand
overnight, drain, place in a kettle,
cover with vinegar, add all the other
Ingredients except the mustard, cook
one-half hour, then add the mustard,
mixed with a little cold vinegar. Cook
three minutes, then seal in small Jars.
India relish Chop, not too fine, four
quarts green tomatoes, one quart small
onions, one head cauliflower, one quart
cucumbers, six green peppers, one head
celery and a small head of' cabbage.
Cover with. a,'"brine" mader" by" adding
lost a portion of recipe of dark cake: kind
ly finish How long must it bake? lut
the pan be double lined with paper?. So
mny things trouble me. 3) Should co
coanut be soaked in milk before being used
in pie and cake. (4 My frosting for pin
flattens Instead of staylnc Duffed. (51 My
icings are not of the rignt consistency for
tne pastry bag could you give me both
a white and dark icing to use in It? I pre
sume though the whitu can be colored. 6)
I made a failure of candled pineapple and
sweet potatles. (7) I had several kinds of
salt fish to prepare for breakfast. I failed
because I chose the wrong recipe, but how
can I discriminate? (8) My muffins are
not dry enough. (9) Would you give
cake recipe for general purposes, using three
or tour esgsT iius. i. hi
I don't know where you can have
studied. domestic science without learn
ing that the formation of "Judgment"
and the gaining of power to "discrimi
nate" independently, are some of the
main objects of domestic science train
ing. Now for some of your questions.
1. I do not. know what recipe for
white bride s cake you have In mind
but I think that two teaspoons baking
powder would probaDly be correct, and
one-quarter teaspoon cream of tartar
would be used in beating up the egg
whites.
2. I think the recipe for fruit cake
given below is the one you had in in
complete form,
3. Very dry cocoanut may be soaked
in milk before use. Soaking is not
necessary with fresh cocoanut.
4. I presume that by "frosting for
pie" you really mean meringue, not
frosting at all. Meringue flattens if
overheated or underbeaten. Dry it.
rather than bake it. In a very slow
oven. . The oven should not be hot
enough to "puff" the meringue. It may
be slightly browned if you like after
It is dried and stiff.
5. Kindly let me know what kind of
icing you have used in your pastry
tube. Boiled icings are usually tin
suitable for use in a pastry bag. Why
use a pastry bag for ordinerry home
made cakes, when they can be made
so pretty and attractive with less ex
penditure at time and trouble? White
icing can. of course, be colored or con
verted into chocolate icing. Just let me
know the kind you want and how the
kind you are using is made.
6. Just how did you 'fall" with can
dled pineapple? It is difficult to pre
scribe for an indefinite disease.
7. "Discrimination" comes by thought
and study by the pupil, rather tharl
from the teacher.
8. Give me -your muffin recipe and
tell me what you do, and perhaps I can
help you. Do you always have your
muffin pans "hissing hot" and very
well greased? , That Is an important
point in making good muffins from
any recipe.
9. Do you want a cake of the "sponge
cake" or "butter cake" type? Both are
good for "general purposes." I shall
be glad to help you If you can give me
the details of your difficulties.
PORTLAND. Or., Oct. 8. Kindly give
chopped, one pound
currants, one-half pound candied lem
on rind, chopped, one-half pound can
died orange rind, chopped, one cup
brandy, four squares chocolate, melted
In one tablespoon hot water. Mix in
the usual way for butter cakes, sepa
rating the whites and folding in near
the end; or use the "whole egg"
method, as preferred. Have the pans
well lined with buttered paper. Let the
pans be deep enough to allow the cake
to rise without touching a carefully
adjusted "cap" or - cover of buttered
paper; or use covered tins if available.
Steam four hours, then finish by heat
ing one hour in a rather slow oven.
The cake may be finished if liked
with almond paste, made by kneading
togetner one part almond meal with
two parts sifted confectioners' sugar,
and Just enough unbeaten egg to make
a flexible paste. For richer almond
paste use equal parts almond meal and
confectioners' sugar, with egg to make
a flexible paste. If for keeping, use
egg-white, not whole egg. For im
mediate use egg yolk may be substi
tuted, as this is often convenient when
extra whites are needed for frosting.
After covering the top of the cake
with almond paste any depth (up to
one and one-third Inches), cover with
thick white frosting; either "boiled"
or "ornamental." as preferred.
Fruit Cake With Figs. One pound
butter, one pound sugar, 12 eggs, one
pound flour, two teaspoons cinnamon,
three-fourths teaspoon each nutmeg,
alspice and mace, one-half teaspoon
clove, three pounds raisins, one pound
currants.- one pound citron, chopped,
one pound figs chopped, one-half pound
candied cherries sliced, or one pound
Sultanas, one-fourth cup brandy or
orange Juice, two tablespoons lemon
Juice, two lemon rinds grated, one-half
teaspoon soda. Mix as above. Bake
four hours or steam three and one-half
hours and bake one hour. Finish with
almond paste or plain icing as pre
ferred. I have to ask many other corre
spondents to wait a little longer for
their replies.
said what she said about half a dozen
times not mad. only Just whining and
complaining like t-he expected It. The
trouble was, she said it so many times.
"'When you go on so, I don't care
how I track up,' says pa, and dropped
down to the table. He filled up his
plate and doubled down over It, and
ma and I cot ours."
Pa Tracks Cp Clean Floor.
In a story in the October Women's
Home Companion, the writer has a
character say:
"Pa come up on the porch in a min
ute. His feet were all mud from the
fields, and the minute he stepped on
ma's clean floor she began on him. He
never . said a word, but he tracked
back and forth from the wash bench to
the water pall, making his big black
footprints every step. I should think
she would have been mad. But she
ONYX BEING USED IN PLAGE
OF BRASS FOR WRITING TABLES
Onxy Has Qualities That Lend More Dignity to Handsomely Furnished
Library or Living-room. Cream and Amber Tones Are Suggested.
K Good. Old Home-Made jjj
a Family Cough Remedy a
n Mack Better thmm the Ready- K
qJ Made Kind Kaslly mm& rJ
n Cheaply Prepared. n
JUNE
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ONYX FOR THE LIBRARY TABLE.
M'
ORE! distinguished than brass Is
onyx for the writing table now.
The onyx belongings have a
heavy, solid suggestion that lends
dignity to a handsomely furnished li
brary or living-room. These desk
fittings come also in pale green, pink
and blue onyx for the boudoir. The
calendar and inkwell are of cream and
amber onyx, and would look well on a
brown blotter in a library done in gold
ana brown tones.
If yon combined the curative proper
ties of every known "ready-made cough
remedy, you would hardly have in thi-m
all the curative power that lies in this
simple "home-made" couch syrup which
takes only a few minutes to prepare.
Get from any drupsist 2Vi ounces of
Pinex 50 cents worth), pour it into a
pint bottle and fill the bottle with plain
granulated sugar syrup. The total cost
is about 54 cents and gives you a full
pint of really better cough syrup than
vou couM. buy ready-made for $2.50.
TaPtos pleasant and never spoils.
This vPinex and sugar syrup prepara
tion gets right at the cause of a cough
and gives almost immediate relief. It
loosens the phlt'gro. stops the nasty
throat tickle and heals the sore, irri
tated membranes that line the throat,
chest and bronchial tubes, so gently
and easily that it is really astonishing.
A day's use will usually overcome the
ordinary cough and for bronchitis
croup, whooping cough and bronchial
asthma, there is nothing better.
Pinex is a most valuable, concentrated
compound of genuine Norway pine ex
tract, combined with puaiacol and has
been usod for generations to break' up
severe coughs.
To avoid disappointment, be sure to
aslc your druggist for "2ta ounces of
Pinex" with full directions, and don't
accept anything else. A guarantee of
absolute satisfaction or money prompt
ly refunded, goes with this preparation.
The Pinex Co., Ft. Wayne, Ind.
'Complexion, Secrets
of an Actress"
In a recently, issued volume bearing
the above title, the author says: "Con
tinuous use of grease paints, rouge and
the like, had ruined my complexion. My
skin was colorless, wrinkled, coarse
and punctured with large pores. While
abroad 1 heard of the virtues of mer
collzed wax: my first experience with
this marvelous substance convinced me
it was more valuable than all cosmetics
combined. Now whenever my com
plexion begins to go wrong I get an
ounce of mercollzed wax at the nearest
drug store, spread on a thin layer of it
before retiring, washing it off next
morning. The wax, after a few such
treatments, seems literally to absorb
the worn-out cuticle, when a brighter,
healthier, younger - looking skin ap
pears. "For the wrinkles and enlarged
pores I began using a solution of
saxoiite, one ounce, dissolved in a half
pint witch hazel. Bathing the face in
this every day for a while soon re
lieved the condition most wonderful
ly." Adv.
t
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