TTE SUXD AT OITEOOXTAX. rORTLATTO, OCTOBER 22, 1916.
VELVET TAILLEUR OF NEW MODEL
DESIGNED ALONG DIRECTOIRE LINES
Rigid Tailored Lines Departed From With Extraordinary Effect Backs of Horse Show Frocks Regarded as More
Important Than Fronts, as Being in Range for Inspection More Frequently and, With Better Opportunity.
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THERE is just the happy departure
from rigid tailored lines that a
velvet suit ought to show in a
Lanvin model of dark brown velvet
with narrow bands of beaver for trimming-.
Do not overlook the beaver
edgred pockets, which are a feature of
special interest. This coat emphasizes
the Dlrectoire lines, which some of the
oourturiers insist will be more popular
than the already rather overdone Moy-enagre-
style by midwinter. A brown
velvet and gold cloth hat with a pale
ehrimp-pink rose is exquisite with this
velvet and beaver tailleur.
The back of the Horse Show frock
is even more important than the front,
for when one turns to gret a second
look at a costume the back usually
presents the longest view. The cafe
au lait idea, so fashionable this Au
tumn, has been carried out most 'pleas
ingly in this model of light brown
crepe -de chine and creamy tan georg
ette, with touches of beaver on collar,
muff and hip pocket. The brown and
cream tones are balanced with skill
and Indian-bead embroidery above the
pockets and on "the bodice front intro
duces warm tones of reddish brown
and ivory white. Tobasco brown kid
boots, with ' buttdhed tops and vamps
of ivory kid. match tne frock.
It would be difficult to find a more
beautiful hat than this picture model
for evening and restaurant wear. The
lines -are very graceful and the droop
ing brim manages to reveal the face
and part of its dark velvet lining. This
artful management of a Big brim and
crown so that the head does not seem
to be eclipsed is distinctly French. The
hat is made of pale gray velvet, faced
with dark maroon velvet. The rich
ostrich plumes are pale gray, shading
to Pink, and a metal burr in bronze
and purple tones tops a pin that is
thrust into the feathers.
COAT-DRESS EXPECTED TO REMAIN
IN VOGUE WINTER AS WELL AS FALL
Piece of Over Apparel Sometimes Has Skirt Simulated by Attaching Deep Band of Material to Drop Skirt of
Ch,na Sllk or Taffeta Wing Finish Being Used in Sleeves.
ONE of the interesting features of
new fashions is the coat-dress,
which, as its name signifies,' is a
coat that simulates the lines and gen
eral effect of a dress. They are con
sidered in excellent taste for Fall wear,
and it is likely that their vogue will
extend throxighout the Winter, and
that they will be worn beneath the
great top cont.
Sometimes the coat-dress has a sim
ulated skirt, which is really nothing
more than a deep band of the material
attached to a drop skirt of china silk
or taffeta. The "coat" extends almost
to the hem of this petticoat, and some
times it is weighted with fur. An idea
that was introduced a year ago is ex
pressed in a slightly different way in
a coat which has the belt run through
a wide self-casing, the ends being
drawn out at the back" and front,
crossed and then tacked down with
great buttons of fur.
Many of the sleeves have the wing
finish. They are cut wide at the wrist
and then caught in with a link button
to adjust them closely to the arm. Be
low them frequently appears a wrist
band of fur. Fur, by the way, is used
in a manner rather different from that
of last year. It Is the thing now to
put the fur on In the form of big
patches or to employ bands that ap
pear at unexpected places.
Many of the new suits ebow. the deep
cape collar or the great shawl collar of
fur In preference to the funnel ar
rangement of last year. This means
that a greater amount of fur is put in
the neck finish, and the same is true
also of the cuffs. In many cases the
latter extend quite to the elbow, and
it is . the fashion to have the lower
edge cut wider than the upper.
It begins to look a.s if the dlrectoue
fashions would take precedence of
those advanced a little earlier in the
season. The incipient styles laid stress
on long-waisted frocks and short
waisted gowns; the former for street
wear and the latter for evening af
fairs. Now it appears that a com
promise will be effected, and that the
suit and dress, with the merest sugges
tton" of a short waistline, and with the
broad revers. double-breasted fasten
ing and high turnover collar, will
finally win opt.
With this type of suit there is some
times introduced a waiBtcoat of con
trasting cloth. It is cut very long, after
the manner of Louis XV modes. As a
matter -of fact, certain of the newest
fashions evidently seek their inspira
tion directly from that period in French
history. This means that there is a
considerable amount of braid elabora
tion, as well as thfl employment of
fancy buttons and laces.
Pockets are again featured in all
their manifold shapes and trimmings.
There is a fad Just now for flannel
collars on serge and satin dresses.
White Is given the preference, but light
blue, pink, rose and purple are in evi
dence. These collars are simply enorJ
mous In sire, and they have matching
cuffs, which are also large. Tley may
he bought separately and attached to
the dress.
Ribbon Used Lsviiklr.
A great deal of ribbon tftms the new
things. It fashions the girdles, binds
the seams and outlines the scalloped
edges of flounces and of the drop skirt.
Ribbon is also shirred in various ways
and applied in bowknot design. It Is
particularly effective when used in
such colors as old blue, rose or orchid,
or either black or white backgrounds.
For women of youthful figures there
Is a dance frock with modified pannier
draperies.- Even the reed is seen, but
with much less insistence than six
months ago. Nearly all the evening
dresses show longer skirts, and some
of them have trailing lengths hanging
from the backs or from the sides.
Great quantities of tulle are' em
ployed over satin and over cloth of
silver or of gold to make gala frocks.
It is said that the supply of metallic
braids Is limited, and that is one reason
why the price has been advanced.
It is a fad just now to have the hat
match the dress or suit- That is. if a
fabric Is not of the identical stuff, at
least the trimming must be the same
in design and color. This is very good,
indeed, tor the millinery business, but
will prove an extravagant idea for the
average woman. Less costly is the
edict that says that the hat and the
handbag must have some distinct rela
tion in fabric, color and garniture. This
permits the girl who la quite clever
with her fingers to trim her own hat
and to make her own little wrist bag.
The matching idea Is further de
veloped to include the evening gown,
with its enveloping wrap made of light
fabric. A Paris model that exploits
this idea is of raspberry-colored velvet.
The frock is embroidered in gold
threads and hung over a deep flounce
of gold lace. The mantle is fully eight
yards through the hem and is, lined
throughout with old rose satin. It has
a deep yoke almost entirely covered
with gold-thread embroidery and
topped by a collar of ermine.
Sew Silks Brant ltd I.
The beautiful new silks that are
plaided or wide striped in self-colors
are used for straight-hanging skirts
with a little basqued corsage of plain
velvet- The sleeves of this little ad
junct are always long and tight, and
they are sewed Into the upper portion
that is cut in one with the shoulder.
A covered cord divides the seam. Even
ing dresses are all sleeveless and the
corsage Is cut very low, preferably Into
a deep V back and front. The upper
arm Is shielded by the prettily adjusted
lace of the corsage. The "chemise
dress" is the prettiest seen.
The little Uyzantine dress, with the
long, loose waist loosely sashed, long,
tight sleeves and a simple collar as a
finish to the round neck, has com
pletely fascinated all the women who
have seen it- The very full skirt is
gathered to the edge of the waist and
the joining covered by a sash.
Waists in novelty plaid silk of dark
colorings are making their appearance
in the shops. Taffeta silks having
plaid design in crossed satin strips of
not too brilliant colors are frequent
In style they are tailored and simple
with conventional shirt sleeves and
usually convertible collars.
Plaid silks of this, kind are used in
combination with dark serge and with
velvet for Winter house frocks. These
signs show the semi-fitted. long,
straight lines now coming in.
For Fall sports wear heavy Jersey
cloth is liked, and there are wonder
ful Jersey dresses, trimmed with fur.
which may be worn with a matching
sweater or under the big coat of sep
arate order. Yellow, old blue, rose and
purple are the colors liked. There are
sports suits, too. which are made of
peau de marmot and bordered with
wool plush, in plaided or striped de
signs. Such are. really, the successors
to the gay outing garb of the de
parted Summer.
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
CANBY. Or.. Oct. 11. Dear Miss Tingle:
Will you kindly give some reclpen for serv
ing bar le due. and Is It lerved. with any
thing excepting cheese and crackers at end
of meal? Is there any special way of mak
ing bar le due, or is it simply a very rich
preserve? I am very glad that we are hear
ing from you again and that you have .re
turned safely. - READER.
BAR LE DUC preserves are, as you
say, usually served very simply at
the end of a meal with neuchatel,
cream cheese, or even rich cottage
cheese. Crackers or crisp bars of toast
are the usual accompaniment. Bar le Due
being rather expensive is not so often
served as freely as other preserves,
with hot biscuits or waffles for an
Informal "Sunday tea" or simple sup
per, but, of course. It might be served
on such an occasion if you wish. Or
It misrht take the Dlaca of rod ptjrrant
Jelly, with'' lams, choice mutton or
venison, though, I think, most people
would prefer the jelly. It might also
be used In small fancy tarts of plain
or sweetened pastry. Following is a
recipe for making "imitation" Bar le
Due. It does not. of course, equal the
real Imported article:
Preserver!. Bar le Due (imitation)
I pound large selected currants or
gooseberries. 1 pint currant or
gooseberry, juice. 2,i pounds sugar. Se
lect the lragest and finest berries and
stem them carefully without crushing.
arm and crush enough ordinary cur
rants or berriee to give 1 pint clear
Juice. Boil the sugar and juice 5 min
utes. Bring It slowly to the boil and
skim carefully. 'Then put the selected
berries into the syrup and simmer 5
minutes. Take them from the syrup
without breaking and boil down the
syrup, skimming well, and straining
if necessary before pouring over the
fruit. Seal In small jelly glasses and
keep in a dark place.
Some makers use honey in place of
part of the sugar. Others use 3 pounds
sugar to 1 pound fruit and 1 pint clear
Juice. In the "real" Bar le Due each
currant or gooseberry is whol and
seedless, the seeds having been care
fully removed through a slit in the side
of the berry.
"Bar le Due" is the name of he
place where these preserves originate.
A peaceful little town as I saw it some
eight years ago: but now, alas! In the
French war zone.
The preserves are usually made of
red or white currants or gooseberries,
though I tliink strawberries are also
sometimes used.
Seaside. Or. Do you consider crfseo Just
as good for baking as butter and lard? I
like to cook by weight better than measure,
but erisco seoms much lighter than butter
or lsrd. Should I use more, and if so. now
much? J. 8.
Crisco is better than butter or lard
for all deep frying; as goosl as either
for some kinds of cake and pastry mak
ing; not so satlsfactotry as lard for
some forms of pastry; and Inferior to
good butter for any purpose where fla
vor plays a leading part. It Is, how
ever, one of the best buttet substitutes.
and while cheaper is far superior to
low-grade butter or lard. You must
learn to discriminate.
Crisco contains less water than either
butler or lard; consequently less crisco
Is needed whenever you try to substi
tute It for butter or lard. Use from
'i to 1-3 less, according to the purpose.
I think you can get crisco recipes by
writing to the manufacturers if you
are interested enough.
Portland. Or.. Sept. 27. Kindly rive di
rections for clarifying fat. Also for making
a snall quantity of sauerkraut. Thanklug
you. l. c r.
Suet or any clean fat from cooked
or uncooked meats may be clarified as
follows. Free the fat from any meaty
particles before clarifying:
Melt fat. add raw potato cut In
inch slices and heat gradually. When
fat ceaxes to bubble strain through a
double cheesecloth, placed over a wire
strainer into an empty can or pail.
Be caj-eful to avoid heating the fat
to frying temperature.- The potato ab
sorbs odors and collects to Itself some
of the sediment, the remainder settling
to bottom of kettle. Clarified suet
keeps better than fresh suet and needs
no chopping and should be wrapped In
waxed paper and "shaved" in thin
flakes when needed.
Sauerkraut Select large solid heads
of white cabbage, removing the
coarser outer leaves. Put a layer of
these leaves at the bottom of a barrel
and around the shies. A stone crock
does not need to be "lined" in this
way. Shred the cabbage heads very
finely with a "slaw cutter" and put a
layer of cabbage three or four inches
deep with one-half cup salt. Continue
to put cabbage and salt In layers
(using, of course, proportionately less
salt If the layers are in a crock In
stead of a barrel) until the vessel is
full. Cover with a cloth and put a
board and weight on top. Let stand
in a warm place to ferment. The
cabbage will, of course, shrink and
settle. The cloth should be washed
from time to time. Some German
housemothers put Juniper berries, car
away seeds, dill and horseradish
leaves on top" of -the mixture. The
horseradisti leaves are supposed to
check mold growth. When fermenta
tion is completed, remove the strum,
cover closely and store in a cool, dry
place. It will be ready for use in two
weeks.
Portland. Or.. Oct. 1.- Will you kindly
publish in The Oregonlan a recipe for fruit
enke rather rich and calling for eggs? One
that may be steamed before baking. I had
the "so-railed kill brother" recipe but must
have misplaced it. And oblige. M. G.
F.nglish fruit cake One pound or
two cups solid, best butter; one pound
(two cups) light brown sugar, pounded
and sifted if necessary: one pound of
eggs (usually nine at this season, but
eight If large), one pound flour, four
cups level, measured after once sifting;
two teaspoons mace, two teaspoons
cinnamon, one-half teaspoon cloves,
the grated rinds (yellow only) of
one large orange and one lemon,
one-fourth teaspoon almond essence,
teaspoon (strictly level) soda, two to
"PREPAREDNESS" EFFECT
LENDS TONE TO DENS
Patriotic Colors Used in Table Covers and Sofa Cushions and One Woman
Even Uses Them for Towel Embroidery.
PREPAREDNESS FOR THE DE.
THE slogan. "Preparedness," has
furnished Inspiration for many
new Ideas in home decoration.
There are "preparedness" scarfs and
table covers embroidered with. the Na
tion's emblem, and one patriotic house
wife has even gone so far as to cross
stitch her towels with a red, white and
blue flag. The good taste of this is
rather questionable, but there can be
no objection to the "preparedness'
cushion.
The cover is of tan linen, with a trim
ming of tan cotton fringe at the ends
and the gracefully draped flag is em
broidered in silk. The lettering and
wreath are put In with stencils, the let
ters buttonholed in color around the
edges and the green leaves outlined in
darker green hem-stitch.
R or C ORSETS and- rEH VCE 1
Jt Tresis Your
7$ackl
This ENTIRELY NEW Corset Service
Deserves Close Investigation by
EVERY WOMAN SLIM or STOUT
Nemo Back-Resting Corsets give lines of ultra-fashion.
Flatten the back. Expand the chest- Help to contract the
abdomen. Induce an erect bearing and healthful poise.
Nemo Back-Resting Corsets prevent and relieve backache by
strengthening and supporting the tired muscles. Produce
a feeling of restful comfort; soothe wearied nerves.
No '3R BACK-RESTING, for Very slim figures; wide unboned
OOO side-sections protect sensitive hip bon. Very aq r--
light weighs only 15 ounces. Sizes 19 to 26 pO. OU
"NJ0 Oprri BACK-RESTING, for slender to medium figures of
x KJm -HJKJ medium height Lightly boned weight IB ai rf
ounces. Very flexible. Sizes 20 to 30 44.UU
XJn CflQ BACK -RESTING, with "Invisible- Nemo Self-Reducing
OVC Straps; for full but not over-stoat figures. r ff
Light, flexible and comfortable. Sizes 22 to 36 JpO.UU
IN ALL GOOD STORES TV. Hasss Hyfisssc-Fsslhst sssdMs. RW Yssfc
B-R 10
four tablespoons brandy or spiced fruit
syrup, one pound sultana raisins, one
pound dark seeded raisins, one pound
best currants, one pound blanched
almonds, cut lengthwise, one pound
mixed crystallized peels (or one-fourth
pound orange peel, one-fourth pound
lemon peel, one-fourth pound citron
peel and one-fourth pound glace
cherries). If the maximum of frui
ts Oesired. another pound of raisins or
currants, or better, one-half pound of
each, might be added (making six
pounds in all), but t:ie five pounds of
fruit and nuts will usually eem rich
enough, and, with the four pounds of
cake foundation and the liquid will
give a large eight to nine-pound cake.
I generally cook 'his quantity in two
flat loaves and stick them together
afterwards with almond Icing. If you
prefer to bake the cake a narrow shoe
box or corset box, ltnevl with well
greased paper, is good Instead of a tin.
About four hours will be needed for
baking.
During the finst hour i rises, in the
second it rises and begins to brown, in
the third browns and stops rixing. In
the fourth cooks in center, and must
be protected from further browning,
but it should no, be removed until it
has been thoroughly tested (by eight,
smell, hearing, touch and skewer), or
It may have a heavy streak in it- Have
pans ready before you mix. Have
grease lining papers, well-fitting and
projecting one inch above the . pans.
Have the raisins and currants quickly
scalded, wanhed in several cold waters,
carefully picked over (for stones, seeds
or stalks), and dried in a warm place
where they will swell a little. Have
the flour warmed, sifted, measured (or
better, weighed) and reslfted with the
soda and spices;. Warm it on a paper
In the warming oven. Cream t.ie but
ter in a large warm bowl. Do not oil
the butter. Beat In the sugar. I'se
a long-handled flat-bowled wooden
spoon. Learn to use alternately dif
ferent sets of muscles in beating so
that you may continue, uninterrupted
ly, without getting tired. Have the
butter well increased In bulk and quite
white before adding the sugar. Add
the eggri. unbeaten, one at a time, with
about one tablespoon flour to main
tain the "creamed butter" consistency
and air-entangling quality of the bat
ter. Add liquids In tile same way. be
ing careful to keep the right con
sistency of the batter, not "thinning"
it and wasting your beating, as well
as making it easier' for the fruit to
sink. Add the other flavorings. Then
'.he fruit peel and nuw tossed in a
little of the flour, so that each piece
FACE WAS ONE
!E
SOR
ERUPTION
Covered With a Thick Scale. Skin
Very Much Inflamed On Surface.
Now Completely
-HEALED BYCUTICURA
SOAP AND OINTMENT
"A small pimple came on my face
and broke with a clear fluid coming from
it, and it spread until it covered my face
trom my eyes down to my
throat- I had three treat
ments with no relief and I
had to leave school. The
skin was very much in
flamed on the surface and
looked liked a piece of
meat. My face was one sore
eruption, covered with a
thick scale. '
"Someone told me to use Cuticura
Soap and Ointment and I did so. My face
began to look better and now I am com-
letely healed." (Signed) M. G. Water
ary, Sanger, Calif., Mar. 21, 1916.
Sample Each Free by Mail
With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad
dress post-card: "Cuticura, Dept. T,
Boston." Sold throughout the world.
Is separate. Lastly, fold In any re
maining flour. Put Into the prepared
pans, scraping t.ie mixture well from
the center to the sides.
The cake may be baked, but there Is
usually a difficulty with so solid a
mixture In getting the center baked
without Imparting a "burned currant"
flavor to' the outside eMces. Conse
quently many of the people (Including
myself) use steam to rook the cake,
and the oven for finishing only. Four
to five "lours steaming, followed by
three-fourths ,to one and one-half
hours in the oven, will usually be
enough, the exact time depending upon
the thickness rather than the size of
the loaf.
For Fteaming a cap of gceased pa
per should be used. Or If the tin
comes high enough above the mixture
to allow for all possible rising, a tin
cover or a second Inverted pan may be
used. A greased paper cap Is alxo
helpful, sometimes. In baking to pre
vent too rapid lop-brownlng. If there
Is any danger of too great heat from
below in the oven, an asbestos mat
may be used under the cake tin. Home
made candied peel and cherries not
only reduce the cost of the cake, but
also Improve ius flavor. The spices
may be varied to suit individual taste.
A Wisconsin Inventor has patented skis
with pivoted foot plet-es that seud a wearer
alutis over snow or ice as he presses his
toon down aralnst the runners.
Train Your Hair as
an Actress Does
No class of people devotes as much
time to beauty as do actresses, and
naturally no class must be more care
ful to retain and develop their charms.
Inquiry among them develops the In
formation that in hair care they find It
dangerous to shampoo with any make
shift hair cleanser. Instead they have
studied to find the finest preparation
made for shampooing and bringing out
the beauty of the hair. The majority of
them say that to enjoy the best hair
wash and scalp stimulator that is
known, get a package of canthrox from
your druggist, dissolve a teaspoonful
in a cup of hot water and your shampoo
Is ready. It costs less than three cents
for this amount. After its use the hair
dries rapidly, with uniform color. Dan
druff, excess oil and dirt are dissolved
and entirely disappear. Your hair will
be so fluffy that it will look much
heavier than it Is. Its luster and soft
ness will also delight you. while the
stimulated scalp gains the health which
insures hair growth. Adv.
The Loveliest Curly
Hair So Easy to Havel
Sueli pretty waves and curls, havlnc all
the appearance of "nature's own" yes. yon
can ha them, easily, quickly. If you will
Just apply plain liquid ailmerine before
rolling your hair In curlers. The hair will
have such a lively luster and wholesome
beauty. And it will be fine and flutty whet
combed out.
If you will ret a bottle of liquid sllmer
Ine at any drugstore and follow the accom
panying directions, you will be simply de
lighted with the result which will be la
evidence within three hours, and which
will bast a long time. The hair will be quit
manageable, no matter In what fashion it
Is done up. The liquid, vhlck is perfectly
harmless, will be appreciated also as a
splendid dressing for the hair. Adv.
How You Can Remove
Every Trace of Hair
(Toilet Talks)
A stiff paste made with some pow
dered delatone and water and spread
on a hairy surface about 2 minutes will,
when removed, take every trace of hair
with it. The skin should then be washed
to free it from the remaining delatone.
No harm can result from this treatment,
but be sure it is delatone you get and
you will sot be disappointed. Adv.