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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 22, 1916)
THE SUNDAY OHEOOXTAX. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 22, 1916. PROMENADE OF HORSE SHOW WEEK EXPECTED TO SHOW REVELATIONS Fur Season Due to Open and Superb Creations Are Predicted in Wraps One Mink Coat Recently Designed la Regarded as Among Handsomest of Models, Though Not Calculated to Attract Undue Attention. - 1 ' ? i Klll: J Jill Iff - ff 4 Am U A f; f .' - "4 .yc 7v-ocf THE vogue of frocks accompanied by furs is so pronounced this season that the afternoon promenade at the Horse Show is bound to reveal a great many costumes of this type. The velvet and sil kfrock pictured here Is typical of New York's smart afternoon costume at present. The straight Moy enage silhouette is carried out in dark brown velvet and self-tone soiree silk, a new satin-finished silk of soft, rich quality An embroidery in brown silk on the velvet basque emphasizes the long- line, and the brown frock is trimmed with mink. A brown hat, touched with gold, and buttoned boots of brown and ivory tinted glazed kid complete the costume. In less sumptuous materials a most Informal model might be mistaken for a wrapper, and the gathered front at tached to a shoulder yoke, the row of buttons and the narrow belt distinctly suggest the ancient and honorable Mother Hubbard, parent of the kimono as a boudoir garment. In taupe faille matinee, however, with bands of Hud son seal and a beft of gold brocade, the frock is indubitably the last word in Moyenage costume and the simple lines are rather pleasing, to be sure! The smell hat of black velvet has spiky pour a aigrettes. The fur season, according to fashion, begins with Horse Show Week, what ever the weather, and some superb fur coats will surely attract attention In the boxes, in the morning and after noon sessions. One mink coat has noth ing striking about it to attract atten tion, but few handsome fur coats will be noted this winter. Rich, dark mink Is shaped into a conventionally correct and very graceful garment, trimmed at neck, wrist and hem with the same fur. Brown glazed kid boots, with buttoned cloth tops and a brown velvet hat re peat the warm tones of the fur. Tips on New Styles Given GRACE MARGARET GOULD, in the October Woman's Home Compan ion, says: "Sometimes I really think it is the little touch, the something different from last year, in the costume that gives the whole dress its style. That is why I want to tell you of the many little fashions that are really big. "Of course we are all familiar with the idea of combining a transparent fabric with cloth, for the serge dress with Georgette crepe or chiffon sleeves has long been "popular. But now the transparent Idea Is used a bit further. There are serge dresses trimmed with bands of mousseline de soie or Georg ianna crepe. These bands graduate in width and are preferably in the same tone as the serge though they may be lighter or darker. In such dresses, the sheer material is also used for a very deep collar, equally deep cuffs and long sleeves. ' Satin will not only be the vogue for dresses this Winter, but tailored suits. The suits are given warmth by hav ing a gray-colored wool lining. These satin tailor-mades frequently have the collar, cuffs and perhaps a waistcoat ofTancy vel-w Velvet printed in the cashmere design of an old Indian shawl 4 :;tt' for- I J?s h i III rU : ' v 1 ft I ? ' I - .f lit i t& " ' i ' - ' ' - ' i; : S k i f ? - v- : :-S'S :V , vr .1.-; - 'J ' : '...,1 . ;.( ':'" , . y l " ' ; " I is considered smart for such a purpose. "Velvet suits and many of them are to be worn are trimmed with plain cloth, velour and broadcloth being favored. Braid-trimmed velvet suits will also be modish." LA LI A& STRAIGHT whist in course of time was 'superseded by duplicate whfst, so straight auction prom- ises sooner or later to be superseded to a great extent by duplicate auction. There are some players, however, who contend that the element of luck which obtains in the straight game, at tlmee completely overturning the plans of the better players and giving the spoils to the poorer ones, adds to the inter est, and that without it the game would become reduced to the level mo notony of chess, which is entirely a same of skill. Others, too. object to the' duplicate form- because, forsooth, as it is no respecter of persons, their own bad play stands glaringly re vealed. "Among the greater number of play ers, however, and especiallyxamong the more scientific players, the duplicate form strongly appeals. In the dupli cate game the elements of luck be come reduced to a minimum, and the play, as a rule, resolves itself into a contest of skill, the better players gen erally coming out the winners. In no form of play. However, can luck be said to be entirely eliminated. In pairs &ad teams the chance of cutting in with good or poor partners, or against good or poor opponents, is ever pres ent. Also, as the strength of a chain is its weakest link, so the strength of any pair or team is the play 'of its weakest member, and the score of any frame cannot therefore be a fair test of the skill of all the players. Then, too. the choice of one suit rather than an other, apparently equally good to open, when the bidding; has given no infer ences as to which may be the better, as well as many other plays which are good in principle and judgment, at times results in great differences in the score. Duplicate Fair Teat. Generally speaking, however, the duplicate form is a fair tet. not, of course, as the result of one sitting, but as the result of a series of matches or sittings under absolutely equal condl tion as to partners and adversaries. In scientific circles the duplicate form i to be preferred: for social purposes the straight game is the better. When 1 speak of duplicate auction I do not refer to single table or mnemo nic duplicate, where the play becomes usually more a test of memory than of skill, but the tables of two or more. The players of duplicate in this city will be interested in knowing that a new code of laws governing the game was enacted on August 23 last by the Knickerbocker Whist Club, of New Vork. The New York Whist Club, the recognized official authority for scien tific card games In the United States, deferred In this matter to the Knicker bocker Club, as they claimed they had not had sufficient experience with the duplicate form to enable them to legis late regarding it. The open season for duplicate auc tion in New York begrins on Thursday. October 19, at 8 I. M.. in the rooms of the Knickerbocker Whist Club, and all players who may happen to be in New York at the time are invited to partici pate. The crack players and the mem bers of the championship team will be present and it promises to be a most interesting session. The new code, which I append below, it will, of course, be understood, is supplementary to the complete code of official laws which governs all sucn things as leading out of turn, correct ing revokes, calling exposed cards, etc. New Rule Given. Laws of auction bridge in duplicate, authorized by the Knickerbocker Whist Club, New York, as are follows: "The laws of auction bridge govern the play except as modified by the fol lowing special laws: "1. The arrow on the board in play must point north before a card Is re moved therefrom. The boards. must be played In regular order at each table, beginning with the lowest number. "2. Count the cards in each hand, both before and after playing each board. If at any time any hand con tains more or less than 13 cards, the course to be pursued Is as follows: "a. When the irregularity is discov ered during the original deal, the hand must be redealt. "b. When the irregularity is discov ered subsequent to the first round and before the dummy hand is laid on the table, the hand must be sent back to the preceding table and there rectified under the direction of the card com mittee. Each pair at the preceding table whose hands contain an incor rect number of cards will be penalized 50 points. "c. When the Irregularity is discov ered subsequent to the first round and after or during the play of the hand, the hand must be rectified as provided above and passed to the next table without further play at the table where the error was discovered. In such case. If both pairs held hands that contained an incorrect number of cards, they shall take average score for that hand: ir, however, the incorrect hands were held by one pair only, that pair shall take the lowest score and their opponents the highest score for that hand. "3. Each player, when It is his turn to play, must place his card face up ward on the table before him. The cards must be allowed to remain face upward on the table until all have played to the trick; if he or his partner win the trick, the cards should be turned over and point to his partner: otherwise they should point toward the adversaries. "4. A trick is turned and quitted when all four players have turned ant. quitted their respective cards. "5. The cards must be left In the order lr which they are played until the score of the particular deal has been recorded. "6. Check each score with your op ponents at the completion of each round and. if correct, initial same. Scores so initialed as correct cannot be changed thereafter except with the con sent of both pairs. In case an Incorrect score of any ound is recorded and initialed both, pairs shall be penalized 100 points. 1 "7. A nenaltv for a bid out of turn. other than passing, shall be 60 points in the adverse honor score, inis in cludes a double or redouble out of turn. A bid out of turn, however. Is void and does not affect the correct order of bid ding. "8. A revoke may be claimed at any time before the first bid of the follow ing board is made, or if there is no other board, before the score of the deal In which the revoke occurred has been made up and agreed upon. Only one revoke may be claimed in any one hand. "9. Each deal shall be considered complete ir Itself, and all points shall be scored as in straight auction. No rubbers shall be played, but any pair winning a game in single deal with out the assistance of a previous score shall add 100 points to their honor score. "10. No pair shall score over 300 points penalty on any one board. Any excess over 300 points shall be placed by the winning pair in their excess column. The losing pair, however, must bear their total loss. This limita tion does not Include the penalty for a revoke. , "11. At the completion of each round the scores of each pair shall be added .nrf th difference betweeVi them ob tained. The pair having the higher score shall take 'plus the ctitrerence so obtained, and the other pair 'minus that amount. At the end of the game each pair shall add up their scores of each round and record the net total. A mistake of addition or subtraction, in recording the net total shall be penal ized 50 points. "12. The score of any pair is com pared only with that of the other pairs who have played the same hands. A pair obtains a 'plus' score for the con test when their net total is more than ho .voi-.ir- "minus score for the contest when their net total is less than the average. The pairs having the largest net 'plus' win the contest each way of the table. ""13. Any dispute arising as to the interpretation of these rules shall be referred to the card committee and their decision shall be final." AVhen Rooms Open Into KaeU Other. Introduce warm tones in your hang ings, rugs and cushions. Mahogany furniture is attractive, but arts and craft style in gray stained oak. with gray-stained wicker chairs, would be in better taste. Of course the built-in seats and bookcases will match the woodwork of the rooms. Hang por tieres of gray or rose either In repp, heavy linens or velours in your open arch from a pole set In sockets. The living-room rug may be of plain chenile or wool weave in deep rose or plain gray with simple border in darker shades if preferred; or several small rugs in oriental design with rose tones predominating, can be scattered on the floor. Upholster your window seat or settees In repp or velour in rose color, with cushions in figure cretonne, plain poplin and silk in tones of rose, black and deft blue. Vary the shapes of your cushions by making them round, oblong and oval. A black cushion, or one in black and white is a fashionable and effective note. Your fireplace should be of gray stone or dull rose brick which is old brick of a more artistic shade than the usual bright red. While your dining-room should harmonize with the living-room, the upholstering and hangings may be of figured material, such as little rose and blue flowers on a black back ground, or a gray, rose and mauve. An artistic rug would be a plain deep gray. Simple white scrim or net curtains may be used In both rooms. Dorothy Verril Yates, in "Interior Treatment, in the People's Home Journal, for October. FAME ACHIEVED IN MANY WAYS BY WOMEN OF VARIOUS COUNTRIES Margaret Ilawkesworth, Well-Known Society Dancer, to Be Married Divorce Due to War Leaves Oldenburg Princesses Motherless "Mother" Jones Advice to Strikers' Wives to "Raise Hell" Causes Wreck. L -r V' I I -' e-r? ' --4 i y ' j h r - i ' . -J o' v Ur f . -V r f 3 ; I U t i .JJ f . . - - , A : " u Wu :-- MARGARET HAWKESWORTH, the well-known society dancer, is about to be married. Miss Ilawkesworth is the daughter of Mrs. Hawkesworth, famous for her manage ment of society functions in New York. The Hawkeswortbs belong to a" very excellent family In New Jersey, but they cave up the Idle enjoyment of so- ciety when the need arose and capital ized their knowledge and experience. Miss Hawkesworth has become very well known at the more select dancing places as an exponent of modern danc ing. The Oldenburg Princesses have lost their mother. They are Ingeborg Alix. of Oldenburg, and her sister Altburg Mathilda. Their mother is a sister of the Czar of Russia and their father is the reigning Grand fluke of Oldenburg, which is a part of the German Empire. Because of the feeling growing O'lt of the wr1heir mother has gone to Rus sia and there has got a divorce from her husband, which tha Czar has jutt confirmed. There are three children of the Oldenburg family who are made motherless. The third is Prince Nicolas, the elder brother of the little princesses. For the first time in the history of Presidential elections, a woman has been named for Presidential elector. he is Catherine Waugh McCullougii. of Evanston, 111., a long-time advocate of suffrage. m "Mother" Jones. labor agitator, re cently took a hand in the street railway strike in New lork. "Mother" Jones is militant and she did not sympathize with the orderliness of the strikers. She advised a meeting of strikers' wives to 'raise hell" and they promptly went out and wrecked a streetcar. Nancy Power, a pretty Knglish ac tress, has been selling flags for the benefit of the Bed Cross in London. She will do some Bed Cross work while in America, where she arrived recently. Llna Cavallerl. the famous beauty, wife of Lucien Muratore. has arrived in New York for a tour with the Boston National Opera Company. She is look ing' as beautiful as ever and she says she Is singing even better. When the Cavalieri first visited these shores, she was noted chiefly for her beauty. But hard work has made of her a fine singer as well. Cheerful Color for Kitchen Walls Recommended. llonnrnlrra I rued to Pay More At tention to Humble Cookroom. ' Sparks of Kronomy. New York Times. Hokus Does your wife ever have any spasms of economy? Pokus Well, she's always talking about how much carfare we could save if we only-had an automobile. IN the Autumn redecorating the kitchen is likely to be the last thing thought of. Perhaps It receives a casual, coat of paint and new washers are put In the faucets; but it is the new cretonnes for the bedrooms that absorb most of the housewife s attention. This seems a pity particularly if it is tne home mother herself who attends to the household dirties. Two-thirds of her day will be spent in the kitchen, and there is nothing like a charming kitchen to make the labor of cooking and washing dishes seem worth while. And, indeed, a kitchen may be charm ing without a great outlay of expense, either. If sunshine comes in at the windows it may be made the most de lightful room in the home; but since only the occasional kitchen is blessed with sunshine the apartment-house kitchen almost never one must do the best one can without it. Why is putty gray so often selected as the appropriate color, for kitchen walls or yellowish tan or a sickly pale green? Try, this year, a clear, wafm yellow, the yellow of tulips and of the earthenware bowls in which cake is mixed. This yellow earthenware comes now in various shapes, and the bowls, jars, covered dishes and cas seroles ranged along the kitchen shelves will Intensify the sunny color of the room. Paint the woodwork yellow, too; hang yellow and white silkolene wash curtains in the window and fasten white table oilcloth to shelves, tables and, tub-lids with brass-headed tacks. The floor should be painted a brownish yellow and varnished, and may have brown and white linoleum rugs. In this sunny yellow and white kitchen blue and white crockery will add an artistic note of contrast. If sun streams In .at the windows, hare window boxes by all means, planted with parsley. When Summer comes put the window boxes outside and till them with nasturtiums. A blue kitchen is charming also, but blue should be used for a color scheme only when the kitchen has the advan tage of sunshine. Paint the walls delft blue an1 cover the floor with blue and white linoleum. Hang blue-striped muslin sash curtains in the windows and hang a blue and white crash roller towel against the door. Between meal times the kitchen may be covered with blue and white crash also. The rower of blue crockery and enamel cooking utensils will do the rest. - When Husband Starts Teaching AVlfo Arnold Bennett, the distinguishes! Knglish novelist,, says in the October Woman's Home Companion. about young husbands: "The terrible thought shoots through his mind: It is a human being that 1 have married!' He had fancied It was a divinity, or at least a superhuman being. Then he thinks: 'I am morally responsible for this poor human be ing. It is my duty to- improve her. and on her behalf to strive after that perfection which she lacks.' And also he thinks: 'She is not making the best of herself. She ia not putting her best foot foremost. And the public will mlsesteem her. Se means well, but the cannot see herself as . I see her; moreover, she falls short of me In knowledge of the world. A few dis creet hinte will be enough. . . I will give them at the first opportunity. 1 ought to give them. . -. Indeed. I am not the man to be matte a fool of.' - The trouble then starts. No matter how tactful the nusband. how teachable the wife, the trouble then starts." An Indian tribe In Bolivia ' shuns the whites and lives as in the stone aire, mak Inc tooli and weapons of Mono, bone and wood. DARKEN YOUR - GRAY HAIR Have Beautiful, Soft Hair of an Even Dark Shade. Not even a trace of gray shows in your hair after a, few applications of Q-Baa Hair Color Restorer to hair and scalp. Q-Ban is no dye. is harmless, but makes scalp and hair healthy and restores the natural color glands. If your hair is gray, streaked with gray, faded, dry. bleached, thin or falling. ppt Q-Ban as directed on label. Soon all your gray hair and entire head of hair gradually turns to an even, beau tiful dark shade, leaving all your hair healthy, fluffy, soft, radiant, thick, full of lif;, fascinating; so evenly dark and handsome no one will suspect you used Q-Ban. Also stops dandruff and fall ing hair.'Sold on a money-back guaran tee. Only BOc for a big bottle at Hunt ley drug store, Portland, -O.v Out-of-town people supplied, by parcel post.
