The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, August 13, 1916, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 60

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Picturesque Frock Is Made so That It Can Be Slipped On Easily Material Is of Dark Blue Serge on Simple
Lines, While Bright-Colored Embroidery and Knotted Sash Suggest Peasant's Costume.
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1 Or., employed nine lawyers to recover
an old hen and 11 chickens from a
Mrs. Luther H. Gullck aided her hus
band in organizing the Camp Fire
Girls, which organization Is not a the
ory but a success.
A. bill allowing women to serve on
boards of health in towns and cities of
the state has been killed in the Massa
chusetts Legislature.
Through the efforts of Mrs. Cora Wil
son Stewart, moonlight schools are held
on moonlight Autumn nights in the
mountains of Eastern Kentucky.
Mrs. Hannah Wetzig-Droll. the only
bona fide announced candidate for
State Senatorial honors in Kansas this
year, is going to make her campaign
on better schools. t
Edith Helena, an opera singer, owns
1000-acre farm in New Tork state.
upon which she raises some of the
finest grain, fruits and thoroughbred
livestock in America. .
EASY to slip on of a morning is a
picturesque frock for the college
girl. The material is dark blue
serge and the simple lines, bright
colored embroidery and knotted sash
suggest the peasant style. The but
toned bodice has the new loose collar
and sleeves drawn in snugly at the
wrist by buttoned cuffs. Saddle-bag
pockets depend from the belt over the
hips, ' and these, like the skirt, sash
and collar, are embroidered in light
red silk floss. The hat is a new semi
sport model of red and blue pontine,
the material used in applique effect so
that both sides are shown off to ad
vantage. ,
The best combination for morning
wear at college will be this year a
smart, separate skirt, rather in sport
skirt suggestion, and a fresh blouse
of tub material. The skirt suggested
Is of striped worsted in dark green,
orange and black, and every girl will
pronounce the new sort of pockets
fetching in the extreme. Sensible yet
Knitting: Reticule Designed
on Ultra-Useful Lines.
Opening; Made With Strips of Featfc
rrbonr, Alakinsr It Kaar to "Unpack9
THE best knitting reticule Is simple
in shape and design, with no gath
ering or strings but an easily opened
top; for stitches are prone to slide of!
knitting needle while one is fussing
with draw-strinss, or pulling a half
finished sweater or afghan out of a
narrow opening. The best sort of
knitting bag is square and plentifully
wide, and deep.
One edge should be left open for the
top and two strips of featherbone, in
serted in the hem. will keep the top
of the bag in position, and will make
it easy to open; for a slight pressure
on the ends of the featherbones will
make the bar opening into a circle
and the knitting may be tumbled out
without pulling it. Linen crash makes
good bag and the lining may be of
A daintier bag may be made of two
squares of tapestry or silk brocade,
with a lining of silk. A smart-looking
knitting bag is of striped black and
white taffeta with an embroidered
monogram in green silk and a lining
of bright green to match. In the silk
lining are buttoned pockets for an
extra set of knitting needles and the
crochet hook, which is so useful in
picking up dropped stitches.
Chicago Daily Xews.
"Tommy." said the teacher, "can you
tell me what the son of a King is
"Yes. ma'am." replied the little fel
low. "He is called the jack.
Little Dorothy This paper says they
are not going to build any more sky-
sc i ape is. what is a skyscraper, any
Small Sammie Oh, a skyscraper is a
machine the weather man uses to
scrape the clouds off the. sky.
very pleasing boots to po -with the for Sundays, at college and for various
skirt are of tan glazed kid, with but
toned tops of brown and. black .twilL
It is all very well to travel in one's
campus coat while it is fresh and new
but by- the first vacation it will be
unpresentable in train or town. A
traveling suit in simple good taste is
described, and stlch a suit wilt answer
week-end visits. This tailleur for
youngr woman is of dark blue gabardine
with a new velvet collar topped by a
smaller collar of gray squirrel fur.
The cuffs are also of velvet and fur.
The coat is in the new thre-quarter
length, and the full, though not flaring,
skirt is stiffened a little with wltchtex
at the hem.
White Serge Smartest for Late Summer Pongee CrVercoat Is Sufficiently
Simple to Be Made at Home Georgette Crepe Chief Material.
LAST year's taffeta jacket will make
an excellent country or motor cos
tume. The original color scheme
of one jacket was of black taffeta,
with the waistcoat of white pique, the
collar of white organdie', and the skirt
of pink and white spotted muslin. If
an old blue taffeta jacket were to be
used a blue and white spotted muslin
ekirt would be more desirable. The
jacket should, in any case, be cut quite
short and the sleeves made exceedingly
tight. On these two points the whole
smartness of the effects depends.
Of course this type of suit is smart
est in white serge at this time of year,
but white serge is so easily soiled that
one hesitates to advise it for the lim
ited wardrobe. A suit of this type,
however, in a dark tweed would be use
ful for the cold, rainy days of Summer
and could be worn at the seaside or in
the country all through the Autumn.
Kxcellent and quite inexpensive jersey
suits for country wear are also to be
had now in a great variety of colors.
fcio many charming dresses have been
designed this year for sports and gen
eral country wear that the woman of
limited income who has hitherto con
sidered the informal portion of her day
covered by the standard combination of
sweater and tub skirt, would do well to
acquire at least one of them. One
model is a new design for a smock suit
of rough white linen. The stripes
around the sleeves are in three sec
tions. These stripes may be made in
three different ways by application of
colored tapes, by tiny strips of colored
linen, or by working in with worsted.
If 'the latter scheme is followed it is
better to use a linen of a very coarse
weave. The color scheme suggested is
arranged in tiny bands as . follows
Aiauve, yellow, green, black, red. yel
low, red. black red. yellow, red, black.
green, yellow and mauve. It is smart
to have stripes in colors in the same
order show in the lining of the skirt
as it blows in the wind, and to this end
it would be well to work them in from
the bottom to a height of about four
Sleeveless Jackets Coolest.
A costume made with a sleveless
jacket affords one of the coolest for
Summer wear. In a sports costume the
jacket is a combination of genuine
coolness with a trim tailored effect.
rare achievement. This costume, by its
clever combination of the striped with
' the plain material, is unusually strik
ing and smart, and it is not so difficult
rough open weave, ahd it is a model
which has found favor in Paris.
Mary Haberman, of Portland,
Attending to Business.
From London Tit-Bits.
You say the officer arrested you
while you were quietly minding your
own business?
"Yes, your honor. He caught me sud
denly by the coat collar and threatened
to truncheon me unless I accompanied
rum quietly to tne stauon.
"You were peaceably attending to
your own business, making no noise or
disturbance of any kind?' '
"None whatever, sir."
"It seems very strange. What is your
"I'm a burglar."
Plausible Enough.
From the Chicago Herald.
A traveling man was exasperated be.
cause the station in a certain Southern
city was so far removed from the busi
ness section. As he mopped the perspir
ation from his forehead he grumbled to
a negro boy at his side:
"Why did they put this station so far
away from town?'
The nesrro was plainly puzzled for
minute, then said: "I dunno. lest 'twas
'cause they wanted it 'longside der rail
to make as one imagines. The body of slender woman.
the irock is or Knaki-Kooi ana the
under waist is of batiste qr organdie.
In the color scheme shown the body
of the jacket, the skirt and the cuffs
were of champagne - colored material,
striped with black, the small lapel- and
the peplum were orange. The bodice
was tinted to match the champagne
color of the skirt. A less complicated
color scheme would be to make the
body of the dress of lavender material
striped with black and the lapels and
peplum of a darker purple, and to have
the under-bodice either white or tinted
to match the shade of the lavender.
A pongee overcoat of the regulation
smart motor-coat cut is sufficiently
simple to be made at home if desired.
Pongee coats of this nature are cool.
light and pleasant to wear, and they
afford the beat possible protection from
dust, . The buttons are covered, with
pongee. -
The plainer the smarter is still the
rule of coats for motor wear, and the
best of all Summer material" pongee
silk, which affords a light, cool, wash
able coat.
Many of the most charming midsum
mer dresser are of georgette crepe,
that material of which smart women
seem never to tire. There is, .indeed, no
other- textile which combines delicacy
with excellent wearing quality and
which, moreover, may be had In such
lovely colors.
Design Simple bnt UnmsoaL
It is unusuaT in this season of many
frills and ruffles to find a frock
smartly severe. A frock of this sortJ
seems especially designed for the
woman of exacting taste who appre
ciates a simple but unusual design
carried out with expert workmanship.
The frock is of striped La Jerz. and it
may be had in lavender and white, pink
and white, or green and white. The
belt it is such thoughtful details that
mark the frock well made is xX white
pique, as is the becoming turnover col
lar: and a long tasseled sash of the
k buttons to it at the back. The
buttons are of white pearl.
Another model is a cool frock of
georgette crepe. It is a combination
of white .and very soft tan, and tan
beads are trie, only trimming, tiny seed
like beads, very delicate in color, to
match the tan which borders the skirt
and appears on the collar and girdle.
One of the most charming details of
this frock is its sleeves, which are fin
ished with a pleasantly modern version
of the old-fashioned handkerchief frill.
In fact the whole frock has an old
fashioned air which is particurarly
feminine and smart.
Another soft gown of another-favor
ite midsummer material the ever prac
tical net is of ecru net, trimmed with
the simplest of trimming, bands of em
broidered net. This sort of embroid
ery is most appropriate for net, and it
is always a relief from the over-elabo
rate trimming which often character
izes net frocks of less satisfactory de
In the tailored frocks is one of
oyster-white tussur silk, and a frock of
tussur silk of this shade, is one of the
smartest which may make its appear
ance in the midsummer wardrobe. The
braid which distinguishes this model is
of exactly the same shade as the silk.
The frock is most appropriate for
The charm of anothe frock Is
due. in & measure, to the cleverly ap
plied soutache braid. However, the
frock does not rely for its smartness
on the braid alone, for It has another
asset in the shape of the extra sec
tion which is set on at the side of the
skirt and which flares at just the right
angle. It also depends on the unusua
low waist line at the back and the
crisp black taffeta bow at the neck.
The frock may be had in either white
or gray linen with self-toned braid.
This season the younger set has
taken up the fad of the slip-on sweater.
A sweater of ttiis sort may be drawn
on after a game of tennis and is ex
ceedingly jaunty and youthful on
young girl or a slender woman. This
sweater, which may be had in any
color, is woven o xery fins wool la a.
Marion Pomeroy Smith Is Declared Sane, Winning Right to Handle Own Money Duchess of Devonshire Soon to
Come to' Canada Baroness Von Hutteri, American, Arrested in England Eugenie Philbin Leaves Husband.
WOMAN' no longer hammers her
thumbs when she tries to drive
a nail. In these days of handicraft
and manual training she is often an
accomplished carpenter and needs to
call-in no outside help when a shelf is
to be put up or the piazza rail repaired.
- A-convenient- apron ia designed ior
carpentering Jobs about the house
The apron is of, khaki, with separate
sleeves that button on and there are
bandy .pockets for one's hamme
screwdriver, 'wrench and other tool
Of course the dainty woman, wears
loose gloves when ho goes In for
caxpeuterins, - - -
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been declared eane in a sensa
tional trial at Barnstable, Mass.
She is a young heiress living at Ilyan
nis. Her conservator. Charles C. Paine,
asked to have the care of her fortune
taken from her on the ground that she
was out of her mind, and that she was
immoral and evidence of her infatua
tion for a young married man named
Phlnney was brought against her with
the aid of her grandmother, with whom
1 T u- at nnv.i that t h.
grandmother had received a good deal
or money irom ner. ana tne evidence
leemed to snow that the grandmother
was trying to get possession of her
The Duchess of Devonshire and her
husband, the Duke of Devonshire. Can
ada's new Governor-General are in
London at present. The Duchess is
one of the. most popular of the titled
ladies of the Knglish court and Is said
to be Queen Mary's most intimate
friend. The Duchess is well known to
many Canadians and will shortly leave
England for her new home in Canada.
The Baroness von Hutten, an Ameri
can woman, has been arrested in Eng
land as an enemy alien and may be
Interned for the remainder of the war.
She formerly lived in Philadelphia, and
was well-known as an author. h
married a German but divorced him
eight years ago and has been living
6ince in Kngland.
It was less, than a year ago that
pretty Eucenle Philbin. daughter of the.
well-known - lawyer. Eugene PhPbin.
and a conspicious fieure In society.
Jilted her finance and married Louis
H. Wetmcre. Now Town Topics says
Mrs. Wet more has separated from her
husband and gone to her mother.
Marian A. Spratt has been appointed1
a member of the board of health oC
Lansing, Mich. Tnis Is the first tlm
a woman has held such a position in
Michigan. Miss fpratt is well informed
on the subject of sanitation and health.
A new stsr will appear in the the
atrical firmament this Fall. The new
star will be Emma Dunn, who played
with distinction with Mansfield in
"Peer Gynf and afterward appeared
In "Mother" and other sur-cessfu,! plays.
The new play for Miss Dunn has been
written bv Rachel Crothers and It Is
called "Old Lady SI." The play will
be "tried on the dog" for two weeks,
beginning Labor day and then will go
to New York.
Blue Serge Classroom Standby, but Plenty of Changes Are Needed, as Clothes Get Rough Usage Without Home
Care Stress Laid on Providing Plenty of Serviceable Apparel Frills Not Necessary.
W11A1J r.n else is proviaea ior
the college girl's wardrobe,'- her
provider should see to it "that
there are plenty of tubbable belongings.
A dozen smart frocks and as many pairs
of irreproachable boots will not keep
the active young girl well dressed and
well groomed as her mother assuredly
wjjuld wish her to be away from home
if her wardrobe Is not supplied with
a-plenty of the little things that girls
are careless about. It is the excep
tional maid of IS to 20 who looks to
the darning of her stockings, the mend
ing of her lingerie, the repairing of
little rips and tears in petticoats and
blouses, the pressing out of neckties
and ribbons. A college girl's bureau
drawer is apt to be a helter-skelter
place and. ever in a hurry, Bhe catches
from its chaos whatever seems to be
in condition to wear. Mothers who find
enormous piles of "mending" in the
college trunk at vacation times, will
testify to this. A girl at college, is
scarcely more to be relied upon than
her brother in the way of looking after
and "keeping up" her wardrobe.
Half a dozen each of underwear gar
ments will be none too many and some
will inevitably be "lost in the wash."
no matter how painstakingly they are
marked with the wearer's name or
initials. There should be at least a
dozen pairs of stockings, two pairs ot
silk for wear with pretty pumps of
glazed kid when the evening costumes
are donned. The college girl will wear
about the classrooms and campus, rath,
er sturdy shoes with welted soles, for
she will be running in and out of doors
at all hours and rubbers will be the
last thing in her mind. Slippers and
even pumps are discouraged, along with
negligees and boudoir caps, in the
morning hours. The- college girl must
appear of a morning, completely and
daintily, though ever so simply dressed
and ready for the day's work. Tn addi
tion to her sensible campus and class
room shoes, of tan or black leather in
neat buttoned style, she may have a
pair of stout, laced tramping or golf
boots, and she should have, by all
means, a daintier pair of buttoned boots
with, tops ot light kid, lor dxeso-UQ; oc
casions. These, with pumps or slippers
for the evening, the proper sort ot
shoes for her chosen form of athletics,
and a pair of warm room slippers, will
fill the footwear list satisfactorily.
Wet Skirts Must Be Chaniced.
Be sura that the girl has sufficient
skirts and petticoats to make necessary
changes even three times in a day
if she comes home with damp clothing.
There should be three petticoats for
everyday wear and these may be of
Jersey cloth with silk ruffles, or even
of mercerized material, with one silk
petticoat for dress-up wear. White pet
ticoats are superfluous for the busy col
lege girl, though there should be. of
course, a dainty white or light-coloreo
petticoat for' evening wear with the
dancing frock. This may be of silk,
with many crisp little ruffles or it
may be of net. with a featherbone hoop
or two run through a casing. Elaborate
chiffon and lace petticoats are as much
out of place in the college wardrobe as
Paris evening frocks. These may be
the heritage of the young student, but
there will be plenty of time for them
when her college coarse is over, unos
tentatious dressing Is preferred by the
faculty of every college for young
women and the girl who flaunts her
dollars, in silks and. laces, before her
less-favored mates shows off her bad
taste as well as her smart clothes.
Serne Frocks "Wora.
Th first requirement of a morning
frock for -college wear 'is that it shall
be easy to get Into. There is always
plenty of time between the first bell
and the second, but it is the truly ad
mirable young miss, only, who is not
scrambling into her frock as the break,
fast gong sounds its warning. There
is no better morning costume than a
middy of blue serge: either all in one
piece with a belt already stitched in
place, or with a loose slip-on blouse
and skirt. The smart Fall middy frock
has a pleated skirt and slip-on blouse,
worn over the skirt with a loose belt to
draw It in at the waist. Quantities of
silk stitching in rows and rows and
knowingly placed pockets in skirts and
blouse give the desirable up-to-dateness.
' There la new eUk -aiiddJY brought
out by Christiana this season, which
will appeal to the college girl. It is
loosely cut. of soft taffeta or falllo
matinee silk, and has a big monks'
hood collar at the back, the front open
ing in a comfortable V. This middy but
tons down the front and up the long
sleeves to the elbow, and the belt
crosses at the back and ties low at the
front. A very fetching garment it is.
withal. The college girl should have
half a dozen blouses at least; some of
them tailored and practical, with ac
companying skirts of mohair or mixed
worsted in plaid, check or striped pat
tern, and one or two blouses of daintier
sort for dinner wear at the college,
with a separate skirt of taffeta or dark
satin. Bright-colored silk blouses with
dark silk skirts are much worn now
and the college girl may revel in the
brightest shade she chooses. Soiree silk
has beautiful luster and in shades of
orchid, petunia, amethyst, gold or rose,
it makes very handsome blouses for
dinner wear.
Campos Coat la Sturdy.
All sorts and conditions of weather
the campus coat and hat will endure, so
they must be of the specially enduring
kind. Not for a moment should the
campus hat be expected to do duty in
any other capacity and by the time
Thanksgiving holiday has come around,
the college girl will be thankful she
has, hanging in her closet, a presenta
ble tailored suit with smart hat and
correct buttoned walking boots, for the
Journey home so rough and ready will
the faithful campus togs have become
in a few weeks. There is a new mate
rial this Fall for campus coats pon
tine, which is waterproof and weather
proof: light as angora itself yet warm
as toast- The outer side of pontine has
a smooth waxed surface and comes In
all colors. The reverse side is silk or
cloth. With stitching In silk, buttons
and patch pockets, a pontine coat is de
lightfully smart for sport and skating
One item the college girl must be
sure to provide an Inclusive item of
dancing frock, petticoat, slippers and
stockines. for evening affairs at col
lege. White or tinted soiree silk makes
a lovely and youthful frock. Whlta
gathered net la also charming.