THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND,' 3IAY 21, 191G.
BLACK AND WHITE VOILE ARE USED
WITH PLEASING AND ARTISTIC EFFECT
Youthful Model Fastened in Back Is Described as "Cool as a Breeze- It la Made of Black and White Printed
t Taffeta With. Bodice and Fluttering Skirt as Plain as House Frock.
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. L-VCK and 'white voile In sprawl-
lnx, modern dasiso. b ben used
to Droducft a n nnuxn&t Rummer
afternoon frock. Motifs of the black
and white voile have been clipped oat
and applied to plain white cleeve and
tktrt of Georgette crepe and a large
collar of the white crepe has alao cor
ner motifs of the voile pattern. The
eoft folds of the skirt are distended by
& petticoat of -white taffeta, run with
several rows of featherbane tubing- and
though longer than the short skirt of
Winter, reveals dainty buttoned boats
of washable white kid. I
.T W 1 1 T 4. I lit- WIW I
Jn the weave with a white silk ground
produces a soft. Krayi&h stripe effect,
makes a ccol and particularly smart
frock for Summer roomings. The skirt
is tuckerf hy band and pleated Into the
lselt. a. flexible wttcbtex facinsr ptvin
Just enousrh body to the hem. The
bod tee ts no more than a tailored shirt
waist wtth two collars, one of the
etriped silk and one detachable of
white Georgette. Buttoned boots of
-white washable kid and a white sports
Iiat trimmed with green grapes, accom
pany this cool and dainty morning cos
tume. There ia something suggestively
youthful in a simple little fasten-in-ck
frock. Cool aa a breese it is. too,
made of black and white printed taf
feta, in an all-over design: with bodice
and fluttering skirt as plain as a house
frock could be. But elaboration is
added m the handsome braiding at the
sides and back, which is so closely in
corporated with the silk pattern that
one has to look closely to tell where
,ne begins and the other ends. Under
the silk is a facing- of light resilent
stiffening which gives the soft silk a
modish flare.
He Was Sure of It.
1 (From the American Boy.)
A Bamegat schoolmaam had been
tilling her pupils something about
George Washington, and finally she
asked:
Can anyone tell me which Washing
ton was a great General or a great
Admiral?"
The small son of a fisherman raised
Ms hand, and aha sisnaled him to
epeak.
"He was & great General,' said the
boy. "I seen a picture of him crossing
the Eeiaware. and no great Admiral
would put out from shore standing up
in a skiff."
Prouiisins.
From London Opinion.
"Every time the baby looks into my
face he smiles. said Jlr. ileekinsu
"Well," answered his wifo, "it may
not be exactly polite, but it shows he
has a sense of humor.
. - " AO .Si..-.. 'ii.- . OL. ."-to' V'VV
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CARUSO'S FRIENDS WEEP AS HE SAILS
FOR ITALY THROUGH PERDLOUS SEAS
' ' " " 1 -' 1 - 1 " ' " ' "'" 1 ' 1 1 1 ' '
Tenor, Jolliest Person in Crowd at Dock Says He Would Take Up Arms if Necessary New York Music-Lovinj
Public Has Treat in Seriea of Concerts Open-Air Season Soon to Start.
BY EMEIJE PRANCES BAUER.
NEW YORK. May 20. (Special.)
There wera many who wept real
tears when Caruso sailed on the
Espagne recently. It looked like an
old-time sailing day. and the flowers,
flags and cheers for the great Idol of
the American public made it seem al
most impossible, to believe that the trip
is fraught wtth such danger. But Ca
ruso wai the jolliest of them there,
lie had no fear and was-only thinking
of his reunion with his two sens, the
actual cause for his making the trip.
Ho said he was ready to serve if
they wanted him, hut did not hesitate
to add that he was, not sorry for- the
extra years which would put him out
of the serving age. But he added that
bo was going to contribute largely to
the fund for the orphans and widows.
and the thing which seemed to cause
him the most pensive moments was
that his son Enrico, now IT years of
age. would probably be called if he was
reeded. However, he said that both he
and bis son would enter service if nec
essary, and that he would be back if
conditions and the crossing would per
mit. Mr. Gatti-Casaaza looked wistful
as ha bade him farewell, and there is
no doubt that be would have given
much to have been able to dissuade his
countryman, friend and "trump card."
The impresario himself ia not sailing
and will probably have enforced rest. -
Kany of the artists envied the tenor,
notwithstanding the danger of the
crossing, nothing bringing these dan
gers more effectively to mind than -the
great beneSt coneert given Sunday
night at the Metropolitan for the sis
children of the ill-fated Granadas and
his wife, who were sunk on the Sussex.
But it haa been understood that Mr.
Gatti-Casaxza has not favored their do
ing so. and many of them have been
positively requested to remain- in this
country if they wished to retain their
posts at the great opera-house.
Beginning with the great Granadoe
benefit concert Sunday night, the
music-loving public is having a number
of "gala .performances to enjoy, and
it may b that never in the musical his
tory of this country have these, per
formances been given by artists of such
rank, distinction and excellence.
An all-star musical benefit for the
Actors Fund ef America was given
Hay l. at the. Metropolitan Opera
House, with the Metropolitan Opera
House orchestra and ballet under direc
tion of Giorgio Polacco- Geraldine Far-
rar and Seoul wera beard in the great
second act from Tosca"- and In the sec
ond act from "Madame Butterfly," in.
which they had the assistance of Mad
ame Fdrnia. luica Botta. Anna Fitztu,
Bada. Xe Seguxola. Madame VlUanl
and Pietro Audisio. With these singers
were heard the eminent pianist. Go
do w sky. and Frits Ixreisler. violinist,
e
There la every reason to believe that
the open-air performance of Verdi's
"Requiem June at the Polo Grounds.
New York, will be the beginning of a
series of festival representations, but
these will be on such a scale that they
will attract audiences from miles away
throughout the Summer. Following the
"Requiem," which will be sung by Lu
cile Lawrence, soprano, Maria Gay?
contralto, Zenatello. tenor, and Leon
Rothier, basso-baritone, an open-air
performance win be given of "Aida"
under the auspices of the University of
Pennsylvania on the athletic field of
the university.
One of the happiest announcements
to make in connection wtth this event
la the fact thatthe part of Amonasro
will be sung by that rare artist and
distinguished musician, Giuseppe Cam
panari. who was for many years one
of the greatest attractions of the Met
ropolitan Opera-House. To digress a
moment from the subject in hand, be it
said that Campanarf was not only a
great singer and a polished actor, but
ho was a rare musician, having been
cellist of the Boston Symphony Orches
tra for soma years. Carapanari s return
will give the psesent generation of mu
sic lovers and students the opportunity
to see some of the most polished and
skillful acting that the Metropolitan
etag has known.
The cast will include Madame Rap-
pold. who is a favorite Aida with the
Metropolitan audiences; Madame Mat
senauer, one of the greatest interpret
ers of Anheris of all time; M. Zinowlew.
a Russian tenor: Leon Rothier as the
King; Jose Mardones as Ramlis; Juan
lta Prewett as the priestess, and Gio
vanni Porro as the messenger. It ts
understood that Polacco will conduct at
least this performance, if not several
which are expected to follow.
Pittsburg is to have a Joyous time
for the school children to say naught
of the music lovers of this great
center. "Si igfried" is announced for
an open-air performance in Forbes
ineld June IS. by a east from the
Metropolitan Opera Company under
Bodanaky who will have his own or
chestra and organisation including
Mme. Gadskt, Lila. Robeson. Johannes
Sembaeh and the great American artist
Clarence Whitehili. Prior to the
"Siegfried performance there will be
two choral concerts when 1000 children
and 609 adults from the day and even
ing-schools trained by Will Earhart.
director of music In the public schools.
will have the assistance of Clarence
Whitenlll. Miss Robeson and Mme.
Gadski together with the orchestra
under Bodanaky. . There is little doubt
that these three days of music will go
far toward awakening the musical
feeling in Pittsburg which in a certain
sense, like St. Paul, was supposed to
have died completely with the elimi
nation of the orchestra.
e e-
The Norfolk Festival, which will be
remembered as an entirely private af
fair given by the Litchfield choral sing
ers Tor the pleasure or Mr. ana Airs.
Carl StoeckeL will have as most dis
tinguished guest and artist Percy
Grainger. Grainger has several new-
works which will have "first hearings
in this country which delights to har
bor this creat artist during unhavpy
times in his own country. Mr. Grainger
will have an entirely new work pro
duced at the next Worcester Festival,
as well as at the Norfolk. The Wor
cester work will be a choral setting of
a Walt Whitman text and ia awaited
impatiently both by admirers of the
great old poet who is too little known
in bis own country and of the superb
artist Percy Grainger, who has been
a rare figure in the musical life of this
country during the past season.
It will be deep Into July before tne
festivals and the open air concerts Willi
be ever and by that time there will be
musical life in many of the Summer
resorts due to the presence of all the
concert and operatic artists who are
remaining in this country. It la said
that Seal Harbor will be the objective
coint of most of them and to bear tne
enthusiasm with which they all speak
of "being together during the bum
mer would put to flight the old-fashioned
theory tht there ia ne warmth
of feeling between them.
Seal Harbor will accommodate Har
old Bauer and Mrs. Bauer and the
pianist ia determined not to teach one
pupil Inasmuch as he has filled a sea
son that is well-nigh appalling. Ga-
brilowitch. who with his wife. Clara
Clemmena Gabrilowitch. and their lit
tle daughter. Nita. will -also go to Seal
Harbor, but no teaching for him aa be
ia not fond of so doing, even when he
has not bad one of the most strenuous
seasons ef hU career. Godowsky is an
other who will become a Seal Harbarite
where, with hts interesting family, he
will spend the Summer and prepare his
programmes for another tremendous
tour, warranted by the greatest en
thusiasm that has ever been mani
fested in behalf of this great master.
not only of the piano, but of music Mr.
nd Mrs. fireisier are also to be tn beai
Harbor where the violinist will take
tho rest which he will need to fill a
season which will be as full aa this
on haa been.
Mme. Barrientos. who was to have
sailed on the Dante Aleghieri. re
mained over to sing at the Granados
benefit. Immediately after, the singer
left for Cadis, going from there to
Buenos Aires where she will sing dur
ing the season there. Martinelli wltl
also sail for the South American port
shortly, but before so doing he will fill
some festival and concert appearances
ia this country.
Mme. Barrientos has had many
tributes during her professional career.
but she has never been more deeply
touched than she was when she re
ceived the following note which shows
what Impression she created in At
lanta; "Please da not think me presumptuous
In writing. I didn't know the birds had
a rival until I heard you sing Tuesday
afternoon. I wish to tell tne birds tnat
live in the same village with me to
practice some more. Your singing,
dear lady, helped me aa all truth does
it is truth in music God bless you
always. (Signed)
-A PLAIN GEOilGTA. WOMAN.
. At what ia said to be the largest
price ever paid any woman singer.
Mme. Barrientos will fill 40 engage
ments in South America for which
country she sailed May 10. immediately
followinqr the Granados benefit concert
where she sang several of his songs.
Among the singers who have arrived
recently in New York from German
music centers was Miss Beth Young,
with her mother. Tho young girU now
only It years of age. haa been singing
in some of the opera-houses of Ger
many and it may be said that she is
astonishingly proficient. Following her
early instruction which sho had under
the late Rose Bloch Bauer in Port
land. Miss Young eight years ago went
to Berlin where she studied under some
of the greatest masters of Europe, in
cluding the late Lamperti, the younger,
and then Moratti. MIm Young, who
sang under the name of Ellsaheth Jung.
appeared informally before some well-
known musicians of New York shortly
after her arrival and. they pronounced
her an astonishingly capable young ar
tist with one of the most beautiful
voices that has ever come back from
Germany. It is a clear, lyric high voice
of exquisite quality. There should be
a vlace in any opera-house of the world
for such talent, and there is no doubt
that should she make a concert tour
before, allying herself with any opera
company she will make an instan
taneous success.
Lucile Collette. the young violinist.'
also originally from Portland. Or., has
made a fine place for herself since her
return from Europe, a refugee, so to
speak. Miss Collette ts a really great
artist who is tne Better appreciated by
those who best Understand what a true
artist means.
NEW FOOTWEAR MADE IN
MANY FETCHING STYLES
Gaiter Effect Quite Modish With Buttoned Upper Made of Cloth Strapped
Over Patent Leather Vamp Other Novelties Are Offered.
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l VERY LATEST U GAITER. BOOTS. t
Ii." I
Inconsiderate Singer.
Baltimore American.
"What a strong voice that tenor
has"
"Hasn't he. I can hardly hear my
self speak when he is singing.
rocur Child
Life.
"What a lot of baby foods there axe
these days!"
"Yes. it is a wisa child that knows
this own fodder these times,"
AMONG? the fetching new footwear
styles for Summer are pretty but
toned boots of an entirely new
type. The buttoned top ia made of cloth
and straps over patent leather vamp to
suggest a neat gaiter effect. At the
back, this tall cloth top attaches itself
by two rows of buttons to a tall stay
of patent leather which, runs up above
the bee I.
This is only one of the striking new
styles in buttoned footwear which Is
now taking the lead in fashionable
favor. Some of the new boots in col
ored glased kid are delectable with
their charming lines and exquisite.
clinging fit. ,
FREQUENT FOCUSING ON
FILM AFFECTS EYES
Sooner or Later You Must Come to Glasses and "Light-Glasses' Are Rec
ommended as Most Beneficial Condition of Nerves Bettered.
SOONER or later one roust come to
it. the donning of eyeglasses, and
though some fortunate women may
defer the day until late in the '40s. or
even in the 50s. It arrives for the
majority before the 40-year mark.
Fine sewing, reading late at night,
playing fc ridge, in dimly-lit - rooms,
straining the vision from inexpensive.
far-back seats at the matinee, and.
worst of all, frequent focusing on the
flickering movie film, wear out the best
of eyes and. alas! these invaluable ser
vants are never considered until it ts
too late to help them, except -with
glasses.
If you find it difficult to thread a
needle: if the printed page dances be
fore your eyes: If you feel an Inclina
tion to avoid reading because it
"makes you nervous": if your eyes are
red-rimmed or perhaps puffy-rooking
after an evening of bridge, undoubted
ly the time has come when you need
glasses, not necessarily that badge of
declining years, "sight glasses," but
certainly the beneficent "rest glasses"
which make so much difference in
comfort and happiness, and. if women
did but realize it. In the condition of
the nerves.
Rest glasses take the strain off the
eyes, make needlework and reading
more enjoyable and. incidentally, help
to. put off the day when, "sight-
glasses' will be needed.
W hen yon need sight glasses yon
will know it; no one will have to tell
you that, you can no longer red news
paper print: but there are downs of
women struggling along, straining
their eyes over fine sewing, and trying
to read music in the light that always
used to seem good enough over by the
piano, who do not realizo that inex
pensive "rest glasses' would improve
their spirits and their tempers. Noth
ing makes one nervous and irritable.
even depressed and blue, like the need
of help for the eyes.
And when you come to select grasses.
let the oculist attend to the lenses, bat
choose the nose-piece carefully yourself
before a mirror. The. straight - across
nose-piece, which most oculists recom
mend because it may be removed so
easily with thumb and forefinger of
one hand, or adjusted In the same way.
ia certainly convenient, but it cannot be
said to be becoming. The straight bar
of metal, bisecting the nose makes the
eyea look nearer together and imparts
a hard, shrewd look to the face.
The nosepiece with an arch or curve
rising over the nose seema to blend
into the lines of the face and eyes
brows and glasses are not the - first
things one thinks of when gajing at
that face. The straight line of the
nose is not bisected with the arched
nosplece. the metal crosses over in a
line with the eyebrows where ic is not
half so noticeable.
There is something distinguished
about a narrow black rtbbon attached
to the eyeglass, provided one's face
la the intellectual type that this style
becomes; but the wearer of an eye
glass ribbon must dress up to It. so to
speak, and stick to tailored clothes.
simple hats and smoothly groomed hair.
A fine gold chain attached to the eye
glass and caught over the ear ts hope
lessly old-ladified In suggestion, bet
ter wear tortoise-ehetl gogglea at one
and be done with it, if you cannot keep
ordinary eyeglasses on.
These huge, shell-rimmed glasses are.
for some occult reason, youthful in ap
pearance. Hideous and grotesque as
they are. there is a certain smartness
about them, and among extremely
young people there ts a distinct fad
for then. But there la no reason ordi-
nasy eyeglasses should not stay on if
they have been rigiitly adjusted by the
optician, unless one's nose is hopelessly
retrousse, it Is surprising how many
times glasses fly off and never break;
at all. the exception being the time one
is a hundred mites from home and has
only one pair of specs with one.
It is always well to wear a face veil
over glasses in the street, then In even
the fiercest gale they are quite safe.
The most important point ef all is
keen eyeglasses scrupuously and tire
tessly polished. The lenses should never
show even a cloudiness at the edges
Speck lees, spotless, bright and clear as
crystal they often add attractiveness
to a face because the slight magnify
lng quality of the glass enlarges the
apparent size of the eyes and makes
them brighter, more wide open and
youthfully alert.
Trainee. Treepa. .
(Cincinnati Enquirer.)
"It says here that the recruiting
stations in England refused to ac
cept married men as volunteers." said
MAKING OF HANDBAGS
SUGGESTED FOR SUMMER
Description of Attractive Reticule, After Paris Model, Is Given and Hints
Made to Assist Needlework in Carrying Out Design.
WHY not make for yourself this
Summer a modUh handbag, irv
stead of putting la the piazza
hours hemming table linen or knitting
endless mufflers and afghans?
Soft, silken bags are fashion's man
date now and these bags may be built
by clever home-needleworkers wtth a
little ingeuaity and patience. A. bag
sugested is a Paris newcomer and is
of gunmetat gray moire silk of rich
quality with a lining of American
Beauty satin. Bath sides are embroi
dered with tiny steel beads and orna
muM of steel beads weight the cor
ners and the point at the center of the
bag. The handles are merely strips of
gunmetal ribbon, run through the
easing. The embroidery must be done
before the bag is put together, of
course, and the design on the bag pic
tured Is so simple that any woman
should be able to copy lt The figure
at the bottom is about a fourth as wide
as the width of the bag.
Experiment with pieces of wrapping
paper cut in the slxe and shape yon
desire your bag and when you have
the figures drawn in proportionate sise
and cerrectly placed in relation to each
other they may be reproduced on the
silk with transfer paper. Some bags
have two sides others are three
sided; still others are four-sided, all the
sides tapering down to a point at the
bottom, which should.always be weight
ed with an ornament of some sort. Af
. ter making a bag or two and getting
your hand in, you will soon be plan
ning bags for Christmas gifts for ail
your friends.
v
I i v :r .---A
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' &i t
t
VU'ONDERLIFT
wearers appear
to increase at the
rate of at least 1 0, 000
a month. This unheard-of
success is
based solely on unheard-of
merit
INVESTIGATE!
ffjl
556
WONDERLIFT"
The Wonderlift inven
tion creates ultra-style;
also prevents, relieves
and often cures ail
ments that; are beyond
the - reach joi medi
cal aid.
FOR. ALL FIGURES
$5, $7.50, $10
Good Stores Everywhere
Mrs. Gabb. as she looked up from the
newspaper. "I wonder why that is?"
The married men have had their
sharo of war, 1 suppose." growled
Mr. Gabh.
Mare ia. the Kitchen.
(Louisville Courier-Journal.)
"My husband says he would rather
fight cuan eat. Proves it. too."
"As to how?"
"He always spends the meal hour
strapping wirh the cook."
FRECKLE-FACE
Son and Wind Rrlng Out Vsly Spot.
Uew to Remove Easily.
Here's & chance. Miss Freckle-Face,
to try a remedy for freckles with the
guarantee of a reliable dealer that It
will not cost you a penny unless it
removes the freckles; while if it does
gtve you a clear complexion the ex
pense ia trifling.
Simply get an ounce of othine dou
ble strength from any druggist and a
tew applications should show you how
easy it is to rid yourself of the homely
freckles and get a beautiful complex
ion. Rarely Is more than one ounce
needed for the worst case.
Be sure to ask the druggist for the
double-strength othine. as this is the
prescription sold under guarantee of
money back It it fails to remove
freckles.
WATERY BLISTERS
MOVER HANDS
Spread Rapidly to Elbows. Very
Painful and Itched and Burned.
Nearly Crazy with Irritation.
HEALED BYCUTICURA
SOAP AND OINTMENT
Farta Handbags-Set Difficult to.
Repredeee.
"My trouble began when my hands broke
out all over ia little watery blisters and
ayieiid rapidly to my elbows. The breaking
out was red and unsightly
and my hands were extremely
bad with inflammation and
were swollen. They were -very
painful and both Itched
and burned and I was obliged
to scratch and then they
seemed to be Irritated worse
and I could not sleep. When
near any flra. I nearly went crazy with the
irritation.
"The eruptun came on a week before I
got CuUcura Soap and Ointment. In
twenty-one day I was healed. (Signed)
Mrs. George Forritt. Thorp, Wash. July
IS. 1913.
Sample Each Free by Mall
"With 32-p. Skin Book on request. Ad
dress poaft-card "Cuticom. Dept. T, Boe
ton. Sold throughout the world.
l V