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THE STJXDAT OREGOXIAIT, PORTXANTJ, MAY 14, 191 G.
NET FROCK IS DAINTY CREATION
FOR JUNE HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATE
Embroidered Medallions Add Grace to Attractive Costume Which Features Bodice That Is Girlishly Simple.
Hoops Not Permitted, but Skirt Is Slightly Distended by Horsehair Cording.
THERE is no daintier fabric for a'
June graduating frock than net,
and, in one instance, white net
with embroidered medallions has been
used with special grace. A gathered
tunic of the embroidered net floats
over a skirt on which are several net
flounces. The bodice Is girlishly sim
ple, with a double collar of net, this
collar and the elbow sleeve having a
trimming of narrow plisse net. A sash
f white moire ribbon and buttoned
boots of white wash kid complete a
pleasing little costume that should not
prove unduly expensive.
Could anything be more delightfully
Jeune fille than the new little bodice,
drawn up at the modest round neck,
and just above the dimpled elbows,
with shirringrs? Very fine embroid
ery in a medallion pattern makes an
interesting trimming on bodice and
skirt, particularly on the bodice, where
eoft white sash ribbon is drawn under
the embroidery. The net tunic,
chirred at the hip, has a trimming of
the same white satin ribbon, its
oblique line accentuating1 the pointed
cut of the tunic.
The soft daintiness of a new hand
made frock, its distinctive bodice and
the cluster of petunias at the girdle
mark it as Parisian. Fine wash net
and shadow lace have been combined
and, though conspicuous hoops are not
permitted to the schoolgirl, the flounced
skirt is mounted over a petticoat just
a wee bit distended with horsehair
cording ex-rtiy cording it is some
times called. The little maid wears her
hair in the French way, without a rib
bon, and her slippers are of white
washable kid.
Manicuring; the Xails Is Easy.
To manicure the nailg successfully
soak the tips of the fingers in a bowl
of warm borax water. You can at the
same time put borax under the nails,
which tends to bleach them. File the
nails smoothly with sandpaper boards
"that are purchased for the use and re
move all stains with ammonia. A nail
polish too often applied has a tendency
to make the nails more brittle. The
professional manicurist advises polish
ing the nails with paste polish three
clays in successsion, then not again for
two weeks, though the nails must be
smoothed and rubbed with chamois
each day.
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about them without petting too deeply
Into an interesting matter? Maybe we
can confine ourselves to the new Rus
sian blouses. .
These novelties of the season are
made up in the most gorgeous of fancy
silks and reflect likely the afterglow
of the famous Russian ballet on the
fashions of New York. Anyhow, the
patterns used are of a wonderful rich
coloring, such as black with gay Japa
nesque birds and flowers, white with
huge variegated foliages, gold color
with terra cotta coin dots and the
like. They are fashioned peasant style
and worn over the skirt with some
sort of artistic sash fastening. In
colorful figured chiffons, too. of the
new reds and orchid shades, these loose
peasant blouses are worn over satin
frocks for evening. In wide striped
silk Jersey fiber they are being shown
in the sporting departments; also where
there is a liking this year for com
fortable sport waist designs which will
come down over the sport skirt. As
used here there is either a wide belt
slipped into loops or a quaint tied
waist sash of the material.
Sport Sweater Must Match.
The rage for matching up things has
also brought out the matched sweater
and sport , hat. Last year they were
matched as to color, but this Spring
goes them one better and is insisting
that they be of the same material. Of
the same material they are sweaters
which are of silk fiber, of wool Jersey,
of one color, or of blazer stripes, are
provided with a sport hat of the broad
sailor nature, where part, at least, is
of the same material. The rim in one
design, maybe, the crown in another, or
the whole upper part with a facing of
bright-colored hemp in the case of a
third. Some, Indeed, are of the flexible
kind you can fold up and stuff into
your pocket or your trunk, but others
are surf, wide-brimmed sport sailors,
with smart "stick ups" In front or odd
ornaments on their crown tops.
White shoes in extra high cuts for
wear with short skirts are being
shown In many novel strap and open
work front styles. They button or lace,
but mostly button, in the open-work
models of a perforated nature. White
buck skin, white kid. white calf, white
cloth and white canvas will all be
worn for the all-white shoe, which
promises to be a leading style for
Spring and Summer.
Ill- Cot Boot Imperative.
With the extremely short skirt,
which we still have with us. the high
cut boot is imperative, but skirts show
a lengthening inclination and with
that and the coming of hot weather
the low shoe and slipper is likely to re
gain lost ground. Already - we meet
with examples of the all-white Ox
fords (made on the same last as the
high boot) with a cut-out front of lat
tice work and five white pearl but
tons. The all-white Colonial pump
with a medium-sized tongue and
square white buckle is also seen. A
combination of pump and strap slipper
in which the last strap reaches almost
up to the instep is another new and
smart Idea brought out lor Spring.
The airy fan-shape Goura adorns
many of the mluseason hats of milan
and lacquered straw now in vogue for
early spring wear. It is extremely
smart on dark colored turban shapes
in black, brown, navy, purple and rose.
Sometimes it is set at the back or side
of the crown, but more often it is
mounted upon the crown itself, but
serves to give the ultra height now
so sought after in millinery.
We notice that both brown and gray
are being much used in this early mil
linery. The brown shades are unusual
tones, on the order of the dusky "nigger-heel."
WHITE GOWNS POPULAR
AMONG GIRL GRADUATES
Simplicity Is Insisted Upon by Most Schools in Consideration of Economic
Principles in Costumes for Commencement Day.
s
j Footwear Fashions Change.
While the street boot shows as many
buttons as possible, the pump shows
only one, knowinprly located at one side
of the instep. White pumps have
black buttons and stitchings and black
rumps have white buttons and stitch
ing. The black and white craze in
lootwear is marked.
It' '?T.iL 1 j
Sir
SPRING HAT MUST HAVE NECKPIECE
TO MATCH FOR PRESENT-DAY MODE
Spring Blouses Useful in Freshening Up winter Suits and Matching Coats Sports Sweater Must Match Sports
Hat and Range of Choice Is Varied Short Skirts Keep High Boots as Necessary Wearing Apparel.
ANEW Spring hat with a matching
neckpiece must come next. This
is a fad of the season which Is
fast ranging from the scarfs and sport
hats to evening chapeaux and taffeta
pelerines. The combination admits all
sorts of treatment. Some lovely
matched sets are developed in change
able taffeta, where the pelerine takes
the form of circular or draped shoulder
capes having edges of finely pleated
frills of the silk, and broad unfitted
collars. The hat to match may be com
posed of straw and be trimmed with
taffeta bows and pleatings, or it may
be a draped model made entirely of the
changing tinted taffeta fabric.
Then there are pokes. Lovely even
ing pokes of shirred chiffon., silver
lace and posies, with streamers of wide
satin ribbon and a companion piece
made ' like a neck, ruche of fluffy
chiffon shirred in rows and outlined
with tiny French flowers. Or, again.
pmall-sized flowers are pressed into
the same service and a flower toque,
with a wisp of airy, heaven-towering
tulle, will have a flower boa of the
same to accompany it with long.
Streaming scarf ends of tulle at side
or front.
Sets Made for Tailored Suits.
Of a more practical nature are sets
designed to be worn with tailored
suits and Spring coats. Here ribbon is
often made the connecting link be
tween the two pieces. Hats of lac
quered straws are trimmed with
modish windmill bows or huge pom
pons of wide moire ribbon, and the
same ribbon used for a ruche and neck
scarf of fancy design with tasseled
ends. Tailleur hats of satin and of
Spanish silk have matching collar of
the chin-chin order, simply tailored
and ornamented with buttons or braid.
Capes? Oh, yes; there are many
models w-ith capes. Some of them
hang only in back, being sort of half
capes, which open over the arm to
show the sleeve; others are like double
collars, which reach to the front in
rever shape; then, again, the back of
the coat hangs out in cape effect. But
mostly they are short shoulder capes
in fact.
A sport coat of black-and-white
blazer-stripe jersey cloth has a plaited
cape falling at the back of the shoul
ders from beneath a narrow turn
over collar of white. The sleeves are
made with the stripes running round
in contrast to the rest of the coat,
which has a full shirred skirt section,
as do many sport garments this Spring.
Spring Coats Are Xovelty.
Spring coats are one of first things
on the shopping list. These will be
, worn in place of the heavy top coats of
the Winter before it Is quite warm
enough to come out in an entire Spring
suit. Of covert cloth, of gabardine, of
wool poplin, of velour cloths, and of
club and sport checks, they are to be
had for the buying. There are modish
collars and cuffs (and even buttons)
of leather on many of them, and many,
too, are lined with novelty crepe de
chine or pussy willow silks in printed
patterns and colorings suggestive of a
Bakst background.
Mighty effective are such ornament
al linings when the Spring breezes
come whirling around a corner and
catch up the ample folds of these new
flaring models. The coat lengths are,'
well, all sorts! Short pony coats, half
coats and full-length coats. Satin is
being advanced as a Spring coat fab
ric, often in combination with some
heavier material. One model has the
whole upper part and sleeves of a
very heay black satin, and the deep
hem can we call It a hem? It is
more like a bottom the lining of the
collar and the cuffs are of navy blue
serge. The swagger lines of this full
length model makes it a masterpiece.
It is close-buttoned all the way from
the warm chin-chin collar to the very
edge of the wide serge hem.
Next in importance are the Spring
blouses. They will freshen up the Win
ter suit as well as consort well with
the new Spring coat. What can. we say
MANY schools now insist upon
tmost simplicity and a considera
tion of economic principles in the
costumes for commencement day that
the elaborate and costly frocks of silk
and lace, common enough a decade ago,
are almost never seen these days. At
a few very fashionable finishing
schools, perhaps, graduating costumes
may still be the imported-f rom-Parle
sort, but the average sweet girl grad
uate who takes her diploma for either
academic or college work, is quite will
ing to maintain the class spirit; i. e..
that no girl shall wear a graduating
dress that any other maid in the class
could not afford equally well.
In some schools the graduates make
their own frocks; others may buy them
ready-made if they will, but may not
pay over a stipulated sum; and in al
most all cases save in the fashion
able schools referred to silks, satins
and other expensive stuffs are debarred.
But when it is a June graduating
frock that is under consideration, an
exceedingly lovely effect may be com
passed with inexpensive material, like
organdie, rtencli batiste, net or a line
quality of cotton voile. White Chinese
silk, sheer and soft,' makee a dainty
frock and costs -no more than of net.
the latter material requiring two or
even more layers to have the desirable
floating, airy effect aimed at.
Other Factors Are Noted.
Usually there are other things to be
taken into consideration, besides the
mere Incident of commencement day.
If the graduating exercises take place
in the afternoon, for instance, the
white frock will be of a style that will
do duty for Summer afternoon and
evening wear. If an evening com-
encement is to be followed Dy a uance.
the girl graduate likes her white frock
to partake a little or tne qualities 01 a
dancing frock and will wear it as such
through the season.
Yet a regulation dancing frock, witn
filmy bodice and no sleeves, would not
be in good taste at all at a school com
mencement, for an overdressed effect ti
execrable on the young girl graduate
who even if she has been attending
younger set dances for two seasons Is
supposed to look simple and sweet and
jeune fille as she steps up lor ner naru-
won diploma. -
A charming little graduating frock
which a high school maid has made
herself is of white wash net and sneer,
crisp organdie, the net lending airi
ness and the orgabdie bouffancy to the
frock. There is, first, a foundation
skirt of net to which is attached at
the knee a deep, circular flounce of
organdie, hemmed by hand over
featherbone cording at the foot. A
similar flounce is set on at the hip. and
footing is used to Join the net and or
Handle fabrics. The bodice is of net
with a draped fichu drawn down Into
a wide sash of white moire ribbon, and
the puffed sleeves are of organdie.
Dainty Combination leed.
Another graduating frock, to be worn
at the class dance later in the evening.
is of net and machine embroidery
always a very dainty combination and
one that has been taken up by fashion
this year. Of course, the embroidery
must be of the finest Swiss quality.
almost transparent in its sheerness. so
as not to look clumsy on the floating
white net.
The frock referred to has a gathered
net skirt around which above a four-
Inch hem, is a band of embroidery in
medallion design. A tunic of net.
shirred over the hips, falls in two
deep points over the embroidery
trimmed skirt. The bodice is shirred
around the babyish little round neck
and at the edge of little puffy
sleeves, and strips of the embroidery
run up from the waistline over this
soft little net bodice. Under the strips
runs, a wide, soft white louisine silk
ribbon and the belt is also of this
ribbon.
It is quite a problem to make a sheer,
airy frock flare correctly, for there
must be no evidence of a stiffening de
vice under the transparent fabric.
Starched petticoats are out of the
question. The new lingerie petticoats
are wide end much flounced and frilled,
but the flounces are soft and un
starched and the petticoat is made to
flare by strips of skirtbone run into
casings under the flounces and remov
able for laundering.
FscIbk Often Is ITsed.
An untransparent frock or petticoat,
of course, may be faced for eight or
ten Inches with some resilient stiffen
ing fabric like witchtex. but the airy
net or organdie frock must rely for its
flare upon a petticoat supported by
hoops, as mentioned above. Organdie
has a crlspness of its own when new
that gives It a charming flare, but one
evening of dampness by the sea. and
alas for the billowy organdie flounces
Silk petticoats are much alike be
neath transparent frocks, and a white
taffeta or crepe de chine petticoat may
have a facing of the reliable witch
tex which dampness never affects. Bu
be very sure that the silk petticoat is
snowy white if It is to be worn under a
white graduating frock. White silk, laid
away for a time. Is apt to take on a
creamy tinge, and white silk petti
coats either washed 01 drycleaned are
often too creamy for wear under a
white net costume.
Graduate Needs No Gloves.
Fortunately for her comfort, the June
graduate is not required to wear gloves
whether her sleeves come to her
wrists or are mere puffs ending above
her elbow. She must not wear Jew
els either nothing would be in worse
taste! A pearl bead necklace is per
missible, or a small brooch gifts of
graduating season: but the new wrist
watch, long coveted and now acquired,
will xnalte Lha, costume more correct by
its absence If left at home in Its velvet
case for this one occasion at least.
Some schools will not permit white
stockings and shoes on graduating day,
but this seems rather a cruel depriva
tion, and most girls nowadays can
manage lo provide at least a pair of
white pumps for such an important oc
casion. Under the schoolgirl's short
graduating frock, white buttoned boots
of washable kid will be very smart but
if the majority of the class vote for
slippers, white washable kli pumps
will serve their wearer well all Sum
mer, as well as on the great day.
Most important is the arrangement of
the hslr to suggest a youthful effect,
free from vanity or conquetry the girl
graduate Is supposed to be thoughtful,
earnest and very young to have ac
quired so much learning.
Handkerchiefs Show Rever
sion to Antique Type.
Reatorlna; Delicate Shade to
Klne Garments, l'n of Colored
Crepe 1'aper lu Klnalng Water Is
SuKKrtlrd.
THE pale pink blouse seems to main
tain Its hold upon a woman's fanrv
and in spite of the scores of new mod
els In bisque, cream and pale blue,
three pink blouses are sold to every
one in another shade. There is some
thing peculiarly feminine and appeal-
ng aDout a delicate pink blouse, and
well does woman realize its becoming
ness. The only trouble about these
dainty blouses is their proclivity to
"wash out." not a good, wearable clear
wnne, out a dirty yellowish white that
is Dy no means bisque or cream. The
handy woman knows what to do about
this: she keeps on hand a supply of
ordinary rose-colored crepe paper, tears
on u. lew scraps and "pinks" the rina
ing water for her blouse. The delicate
tint will wash out again, to be sure,
out it is a simple matter to ' Dink" ih.
rinsing water each time the blouse is
laundered. This may offer a hint to
me woman wno fancies a pale pink
tint, aiso in crepe de chine undergar
ments or who has a pair of white silk
stockings that she would like to t urn
pale pink for use with a pink evening
II IV- IV.
Round-cornered handkerchiefs are a
new iancy or fashion. There is noth-
ng new under the sun not even In
tne moaes lor round-cornered ker
chiefs were in use before Marie An.
toinette persuaded Louis XIV to com
mand the use of square-cornered ones
n fashionable circles. Before tht
oval, triangle and even heart-shaped
iiiiiuiierciiieis naa oeen deemed the
essence of chic, and the square ker
chiefs opened a new ora of exclusive
fashion. Some of the new round-cor
nered handkerchiefs are scalloDed In
coior; otners have a tiny rolled and
wnippea hem with an edge of very nar
row lace.
Jenny Is using the Greek note to lend
Individuality to new Spring costumes.
ner tailored model, called Palikare. it
almost an exact copy of the Greek
auiuier s sftiriea uniform. The upper
part of the skirt is pleated, a plain
band lengthening It from the knee and
a natty little Greek Jacket forms the
coat. In Jenny's evening frocks Greek
lines are a notable feature.
Boot Fashions Allow Consid
erable Latitude.
Dnttoned Model Mont Favored by
Smartly Dressed Women, llelnir
Ilrgarded s More Exclnalve.
i wif ltf'I
I'" X . .
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Hello !
Is this Mme..
1
I
"Don't do anything to my
gown until I have had another
fitting. I have a new corset and
J am simply delighted with it. "
No, I did not have this
one" made to order. I bought a
CB a la Spirite at one quarter the
price I usually pay, and I like it
better than any corset I ever wore.
Why, you can get one in
any store up to 10 a pair."
a la Spirite
CORSETS
For the Woman of Fashion
Gold Medal Panama
Pacific Exposition
inn
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11'
B ff TT
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cJ "Merchandise of cJ Merit Ony"
Exclusive Portland Agents for These Famous Corseb
urgent that a serious operation should
be performed on a wounded soldier.
The surgeon was in great distress, for
he had no anesthetic, and the operation
was a grave one. With quick intelli
gence the nurse, a French lady, leaned
forward, kissed the wounded man and
placed her cheek caressingly next to
his. A gratified smile came over his
poor face and he submitted to the oper
ation without a murmur. Herbert
Ward In the Outlook.
REG
DARKEN
Great Quantity of Material
Required for Gowns
Wits Flare and FlonofM, SA and
F.ven 30 Yards of Goods Are ot
V n commonly I sed.
TT STER DAY set the Summer fash
M.ions In footwear, and now every.
body knows exactly what to buy
In the wsy of boots, slippers and sport
shoes. The tailored costume, whether
of serge, cloth, silk, mohair and wor
sted mixture, or llnen'crash. demands
the tall boot with French heels and
turned or welted sole, as one prefers.
These boots come In various shades of
glazed kid to match tailored costumes,
and in white washable kid for wear
with white tallleurs.
The buttoned model is the favorite
with the best-dressed women, as it is
more exclusive than the now rather
commonplace laced high boot: but.
whether buttoned or laced, the boot
must have a soft, glove-fitting effect
on the foot, expressive of utmost dainti
ness. As &ummer draws on, pumps
will be the choice with silk and lin
gerie frocks; and the smartest new
pumps have the colonial tongue and
buckle: but the lines are close over toe
and instep, so that the foot looks quite
as small and pretty as It did in the
unornamented pump of last season.
Sport shoes are invariably lace in
deed, this is one reason why the dis
criminating woman insists upon a but
ton boot for more formal wear.
Perhaps the high sport boot Is a bit
smarter than the oxford style, but the
latter has many adherents. White can
vas sport boots and oxfords have
snappy trimmings of white washable
kid or colored glazed kid, with stitch
ing and perforated edges that give the
shoes a very knowing appearance. Silk
stockings are demanded by buttoned
boots and pumps worn with formal cos
tumes, but sport shoes express greatest
smartness when worn with ribbed cot
ton stockings of fine weave, with clocks
or striping in color.
CAN It be possible that only two
years ago one was able to achieve
& really stunning evening gown out
of four yards of yard-wide material?
The very idea seems a mockery in the
face of what the polite salesman ad
vises now:
"Ten yards, madam, if you desire a
fashionable, full skirt." And it Is an
actual fact that 20 yes. and even 30
yards, go into some extra billowy cos
tumes. This seems fairly incredible
until -one realises how much tulle one
may use and still seem to have nothing
at all. A beautiful Jenny frock of
sea green tulle has eight square go
dets tailing from a hip-yoke and since
each godet has two-yard-long sides, the
edge of that skirt measures IS yards!
And the godet-tunlc is mounted over
a skirt with three tulle flounces, each
flounce eight yards around. Sleeves
must puff also and capes and collars
must tiare, to give the silhouette be
loved of fashion just now.
Tulle flares all by itself but soft silk
must be reinforced by facings of
witchtex or some other light, resilient
lining to make them stand out. The
French dressmakers approve of witch
tex because it is not crushable and Is
not affected by dampness an especi
ally valuable characteristic in a fabric
which will be exposed to sea mists and
mountain dews on Summer verandas.
Even sleeves are beginning to use
a fearsome amount of material and one
remembers with a qualm gowns of
1894 and '95 when sleeves reached their
final limit of magnitude.
FE TO
YOUR GRAY HAIR
Xot a Trace of Gray Shows After
Applying to Hair and Scalp. v
No Dye Harmless.
Apply like a shampoo to yc-r hair
andscalp t "Ian Hair Color T - "orer.
Do this every day for & week, then
three times a week. In a short time
all your gray, faded, prematurely gray
or gray streaked hair turns an even
beantiful dark shade with not even a
trace of gray showing. Q-Ban makea
scalp and hair healthy, leaving all
your hair fluffy, soft, thick, clean, free
from dandruff and beautifully dark
and lustrous. Q-Ban is not a dye. is
harmless. Ask for Q-Ban Hair Color
Restorer. It is ready to use. needs no
mixing. "Only 50c for a big bottle.
Huntley's Drug Store. 4th and Wash
ington Sts.. Portland, Or. Out-of-town
folks supplied by mall. Advertisement.
TODAY'S AID TO BEAUTY
Kiss Is His Anesthetic.
Especially In nursing the wounded
have women displayed an Immense de
votion. 1 recall an incident. It was
FRECKLES
Now Is the Time to Get Bid of Those
t- srly Ssois.
There"s no longer the slightest need
of feeling ashamed of your freckles,
as the prescription othine double
strength is guaranteed to remove
these homely spots.
Simply get an ounce . - othine dou
ble strength from any druggist and
apply a little of it night and morning
and you should soon see that even the
worst freckles have begun to disap
pear, while the lighter ones have van
ished entirely. It is seldom that more
than an ounce is needed to completely
clear the skin and gain a beautiful,
clear complexion.
Be sure and ask for the double
strength othine. as this Is sold under
guarantee of money back If it fails to
remove freckles.
An especially fine shampoo for this
weather, one that dissolves and en
tirely removes all dandruff, excess oiT
and dirt, can easily be made at tri
fling expense by simply dissolving a
teaspoonful of canthrox in & cup of
hot water. Four slowly on scalp and
massage briskly. This creates a sooth
ing, cooling lather. Rinsing leaves the
scalp spotlessly clean, soft and pliant,
while the hair takes on a glossy rich
ness of natural color, also a flufflness
which makes It seem much heavier
than It Is. After a canthrox shampoo
arranging the hair is a pleasure. Adv.
This Frees Your Skin
From Hair or Fuzz
(Toilet Tips)
The method here suggested for the
removal of superfluous hair is quick
and certain, and unless the growth is
extremely stubborn, a single application
does the work. Make a stiff paste with
some powdered delatone and water; ap
ply this to the hairy surface and after
about 2 minutes rub it off. wash the
skin and the hairs are gone. To avoid
disappointment. be sure your druggist
sells you delatone. Adv.
r