THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 1G, 191G. " 7 GIRLISH WRAPS FOR EARLY SOCIAL FUNCTIONS ARE DELIGHTFULLY CHIC Dashing Motcr Coat for Young Women Is Admirably Simple and Smart and Is Accompanied by Little Hat of Milan Straw Pale Blue Blouse Appears. 2 XL --- w ' E" F : X the Jun fille who i not "out' In the conventional Ffnso and po only to mall and early froriai affairs, must have a dainty wraj lo wear over her party frock. A new cape wrap of (shimmering, pale pin k taffeta, is youthful, because It is trimmd with much narrow velret rib bon and jrlazed kid across the back of the collar anothf-r touch . of French chic. Tile .wrap is trimmed with box Mailings of cilk. fdsrod at top and bot tom with black -velvet ribbon. The Jining- is white meteor. There is plenty cf youthful da.h about a boldly checked motor coat with Its saucer-like buttons in black and "white. The lines are smart, too, and admirably simple and the edse of the wrap has a facing of resilient lining material so that it flares from the tkirl. With the black and white check roat poes a neat little motoring hat f black milan straw, trimmed only with a green ornan:ent at one id.s and eraped with a fine black lace veil. Be low the wrap is a hkirt of blue and "white plaid; and buttoned boots of "white kid complete the costume. The soft trills at each sid" of the front of a new blouse, relieve an over fle,idr effect and the bis" sailor collar, also frilled falls well away from the pretty, tirlish throat. The blouse is made of Keorgette crepe in the pale blue shade so fashionable Just now. and a hit of a black bow. cripsly tied, jrives a smart note where the blouse fastens. All seams and the hems of the Heated frillj are finished with liemst itchinpr- MOTHER AND DAUGHTER TO BE ATTIRED MUCH ALIKE THIS SEASON JIany Debutante Frocks of Mohair and Taffeta Combination Are Increasing in Popularity Young Girls Are Wearing Gray Tulle and Flowered Silks for Evening. IT MAY be contended with a good deal of truth t!:at all ft; l.t are jouthful now; but it is no l5s a truth tiat fome styles are more youth ful than others, and the mother of a ? ounsr cirl will iie much di:crimina tiou in selecting modes that are pirl ish anil suitable rather than modes t'nf are merely irn v nnrl 'otithflll. for her ch.irming joun,' ijaulitcr Jut this! aide of -u. It usually liapnens that suh Myles as are too extreme And danns for sensilile. middte-ased women to adopt, are termed youthful styles: but not all fU'-h styles, ty any means, are tuitable for the d:ni?:hter of a lady wlio wishes Jier offspring to form ladlike habits in flress. In the present fasnionts of t-'prin there is mu h that is sweet and demur.- and disrnified and alto aether charminir. even when combined wit'i fetchins: pictirestieness. and mother and dauehtr are likely to come to an acreerrenl very easily, a state of peace not always to be achieved with out some heated arguments, as every mvtlier of a pirl can testify. .lrl Want to lie I.Mkeil at. In the depths of every youthful soul lurks the destre to make an impres rlon, to be distinctive, to make people turn and look, to thrill less Kif'ed. or lovely or fortunate folk. This perfec tly natural instinct, unrestrained by oldr and wiser heads, often leads the younic Kirl to wear the extreme and bizarre fas'-.ions that, becominc to her fresh prettineFs and prace tlioUKh they un doubtedly are. often cause her to.be c-ritized unpleasantly by more conven tional spirits. fc'o the careful mother oversees her daughter's wardrobe zealously, not cheikiniT the youthful enthusiasm for charming? and smart raiment, but exer cising a wholesome restraint where euch enthusiasm tureatens to overstep the boundaries of feood taste. Kroiks of youn? Kirls are all a flut ter with ribbon bows and "follow me" streamers this Pprinc Like the faci natin? tulle frock covered with little rose pink bows, worn by Miss Billi .Burke, the debuntantes' inspiration in matters of dress, party frocks are now decked out with these little bows at shoulder, at elbow, down the bodice front and at the sides of th skirt. A dainty little afternoon frock for a rirl of 1 show this bowknot Rar nishment manaed very prettily by ;eor?ete. There is a rather rinse little iiouice rippling below the waist in a - I I I IB " IIB 23 V.'i - full frill below the bodice, which Is of navy blue taffeta, a very full gath ered tunic of cream fillet lace, and under this a flounced tkirt of the blue taffeta. Mohair (rowlnff In Favor. On the cream lace tunic, four inches above tbe hem. and ajcain four Inches below the peplum of tho bodice, are tailored bows of the blue taffeta, set at eriual distances apart all around the tunic More of the little bows at the wrists of the Ions sleeves, and one a trifle larc at I he back of the waistline below the line of tiny but tons, which fasten the bodice. Much of the smartness of this cos tume is owing to the silhouette", a close bodice." fitted-with featherbone. and the widely flaring skirt, its flounce laced for se-eral inches with witchtex, the stiffening material, whic h many French couturiers have adopted because of lta crushless and damp-proof quality. there is a growing favor for mohair, in company with other resilient fabrics even alpaca seems to be coming to the fore aain': and Lanvln and one or two other couturiers who specialize in frocks for young girls are bringing out charming trotter frocks of mohair and taffeta in combination. A particu larly pleasing model is of vapor gray moiiair and navy blue taffeta, the silk appearing only in the bodice in pin tu'ked sections at front and back aboe the waistliihe. and In narrow corded frills upstanding from deep cuffs. With this costume goes a girl ish hat of navy blue straw with a blue taffeta bow and a cluster of small pink roses. Ptncheck taffetas are also liked for young ay iris. A delightful little frock of grteh and blue pincheck pussy wil low taffeta has a gathered skirt scal loped, piped peplum. Crisp frills of a close-fitting bodice slashed and fall ing over a green silk girdle in a scal loped, piper peplum. Crisp frills of cream batiste eaige the round neck and long sleeves, and a smart bow of black velvet accentuates the center front of the neck frill. Young ;lrls "Wearing Gray. It is surprising how much gray young girls are wearing these days and very lovely is the dove-like shade with their pink and white complexions. Really, gray is a color for girlhood rather than for blanched or sallow middle-age. Black evening frocks, are also much in vogue with debutantes Just now; but black as it is, such a frdck'ia essen ' "V ' 'Will I m.iW.W - V ' ..y -C . . . .. " . V"- i Ui<s r- i lirU tially young in .treatment. Yards and yards of airiest tulle go into its skirt and its sleeves, and it fairly seems to float about its young wearer. The flow ered taffetas, draped up in Dolly Varden and Watteau effects, also make en chanting party frocks for girls; and even these frocks are made to flare out in billowy fashion by hidden fac ings of resilient lining upder hems and draperies. The lingerie frock that visits the laundress every week must have its (tare, too. and this is given by ruffles and gathers, the five to seven breadths in the skirt being held out over a pet ticoat distended by featherbone hoops at hip and knee. Such costumes are suitable, however. only for ballroom or veranda use, and will not be worn in the street. l'or a girl of 17 has Just been completed a dainty afternoon frock of line white batiste and Val lace; three ruffles on the side, gathered skirt, each ruffle edged and set in with Val lace, and a simple, surplice bodice with elbow sleeves frilled with the lace and a deep cape-fichu edged with Insertion and lace crossed over the bust and tucked into a girdle of ciel blue ribbon. Kx quisitely girlish and appealing, this lovely little frock, and the amount of lace used was quite appalling. Of course the girl must have lier sports outfit, and doubtless will give more thought to it than to all the rest of her Summer wardrobe put together. In this branch of costume let her. fancy have its way, for she can hardly select anything too striking or too gay in color to be fashionable. Fashion Tips Are Found in Realm of Woman. Silk Krorkn for Little Clrla Flare " IlewltchlnKly Spring; Ilata Are Veritable Flowr I'otm. SILK frocks for little girls have stiffened hems so that the ruffled or tucked skirt flares bewitch Ingly over petticoats of lace. A strip of witchtex. the light, resilient lining material of the moment, is cut about half an Inch narrower than the pro posed hem and Is inserted under the hem when the latter Is basted In place. Such a skirt will have a pretty flare not affected ' by. crushing" or exposure r i j- ; ; r to dampness the latter an excellent feature in any costume that will be Worn on Summer evenings by the sea. If ever Spring hats were likie flower pots, they are this 'year, whn every one sprouts a rose frdm the top of its crown. Sometimes there are two or three roses, rising on leafy stems and nodding several inches above the top of a tall crown. Sometimes the arrange ment is more conventional, as in a tur ban of taupe colored milan covered over the crown with bronze and green leaves, having a spiky floral and fruit ornament emanating from the crown. In, the tall growth are pink roses green leaves, a bluish green flower and a bunch of cream satin berries. Fichus seem peculiarly appropriate with the Quaker gray frocks of the season. Any woman can look demure, no matter what her type, in a little frock of dove gray crepe de chine or pussy willow silk, with a fine batiste or net fichu crossed over her breast. Some of these fichus are daintily hand embroidered; others have tiny - frills of pleated net at the edge'; and usually there are cuffs to match the fichu. Worth presents an afternoon frock of plain and striped taffeta whose bodice is almost hidden under a big, crossed fichu of sheet embroidered batiste. The three-quarter sleeves have deep cuffs of the same material. Theatrical boots of white and cream kid are everywhere on the streets, but it is noted that the best-dressed women wear more conservative footwear- of patent leather with buttoned tops of light-colored kid, tall enough to hide their tops under the edge of the short skirt; or buttoned spats neatly fitted over patent leather pumps. TO THE CROCODILE. Oliver Herford in the Century. O crocodile, I never thought till now To pen a sonnet to the likes of you. But since a sonnet has been written to All else on earth, I will, if you'll al low, , Entwine about your corrugated brow This wreath of rhyme which, though it sets askew,-. Is none the less becoming. It is true You'd much prefer a fatted kid or cow To twenty sonnets, still. O crocodile. You must admit I wield no poisoned pen. "When have I eyeV hinted there was guile Behind the crocodilian tear? Oh, when Have I descended to a makeshift vile To rhyme you with the obvious River X ? Our Civilization. (From the Boston Transcript.) Sunday School Teacher Children, do you know the house that is open to all the poor, the rich, the sad. the happy; to man and to woman, to young and to old do you know the house I mean? Small Boy Yes, miss the station house. Too Itisky. . (From Life.) The Merry On- Cheer up, old man! Why don't you drown your sorrow? The Sad One She's stronger than I am, and, besides, it would be murder. METROPOLITAN GRAND OPERA SEASON CLOSES; COMPANY GOES TO BOSTON "Taming of the Shrew" Is Novelty to Be Presented Run in New York Ends- After Successes Are Scored by ' Bevy of Artists, Including Several American Singers. . BY EM1LIE FRANCES BAUER. NEW YORK. April 15 (Special.) The season of 1915-16 closed at the Metropolitan Xpera House Saturday night with "Siegfried," in which Mme. Oadski eang the part of Brunnhildc. Urlus. the title role and Mme. Homer the part of Erda. In the afternoon "Carmep" attracted an audi ence that ended in a lin-e that reached entirely around the block, Mr. Polacco conducting in the afternoon and Mr. Bodanzky in the evening. Mr. Ciatti-Casazza has, no doubt, heaved many a sigh of relief as the season came to an end without more disaster than it did. There were large audiences, of that there can be no doubt, but there was constant shifting in so far as the artists were concer-ed and there were a number of make shifts all through the season. The absence of Lucretia Bori wae one of the most serious conditions that the organization had to meet. It began at the opening performance, which had to be changed on this account, and there were any number .of operas which could not be sung at all. Notable among these was "'L'Amore del tre Re." "Iris" and. perhaps, "L'Oracolo" might have been offered again this season. Scottl'a Illnraa Interferes. In adidtlon to the incapacity of Mile. Bori. Scotti was seriously ill and was taken out of the line at the time When some of his greatest roles were to have been given. It was expected all of the time preceding the opening of the season that he was to have had a re vival of "Falstaff" and of "Don Gio vanni," 'in which the great artist is supreme. Practically Scotti had only a few appearances as Scarpia. Lescaut and perhaps once or twice Marcello and when he did sing he was in ad mirable condition as to voice, to say nothing of the extreme polish of his art. This series of events also reflected upon the best appearances of Botta, who in addition to this was seriously ill for several weeks with an infection on his leg which kept him confined to his room and which only lifted in time for him to appear in the leading tenor part of "Prince Igor." Outside of those who were incapaci tated through illness, the arrangement by which the "stars" were only engaged for a limited number of performances placed them out of reach for the man agement and no one was more seriously missed than Mme. Hempel, whose ap pearances were limited. Mme. Homer, who did not come to the house until a few weeks before the season's close; Mme. Destinn, who was altogether off the list until her re-engagement be came Imperative and helped the direc tion out of a disagreeable predicament, to say naught of Geraldine Farrar. who had also been- placed on the "guest" list, "Whltehlll Ever "Welcome. In the list of Wagnerian singers, the fact that Clarence Wrhitehill only ap peared at the end of the season was to be regretted, because this fine art ist contributed eome of the greatest delight of any of the singers. His ex quisite polish, his noble bearing, the dignity and poise of his dramatic art. together ' with tho great beauty of his voice, made him unusually welcome when he appeared. Another unfortunate detail was that hardly any of the new engagements were successf ul, and the company con tained among its "old reliables" many who would have been infinitely better equipped to sing the roles that were allotted to others. One case in poinX was the Musetta of Mme. Cajatti after Lenora Sparkes had so often proven her charm in this role, to say naught of the immaturity of Miss Zarska, on account of whom it was deemed nec essary to call Mme. Matzenauer into the role of Santuzza. Summing up everything which went at sixes and sevens, what was accom plished by Giorgio Polacco, on whom all the responsibility fell that was not shouldered by Mr. Bodanzky in the Wagnerian repertory, was not short of miraculous. Prod actions Given Abl?-. Mr. Polacco took over some of the greatest successes of last season, and it was' not" noted that 111 - productions LATEST IN VEILS JUST . MISSES WEARER'S LIPS Raising for Five o'clock Tea Is Avoided, Since Crisp Affair Is Short and Stands Well Out From Hat. IT will not be necessary to unpin the new veil and push it up over the hatbrim when one partakes' of 5 o'clock tea or the apres midi ice cream soda of which young American women are so fond. The new veil hangs out- away from the hat because it is a crisp affair with a border of Jet spangles and as many spangles scattered overi its sur face of fine hexagon mesh. And its chief recommendation. as an afternoon tea veil is its shortness Just in front of the mouth; at the sides and back it slopes down to the shoulder. The new spangled tea veil is draped over a smart Lewis hat of Joffre blue with a mammouth shall one dare say cabbage? of beige colored silk poised at the front of the crown. Children Should Be Trained Early in Neatness. Teaching Tld.v Habits Can Be Started at Age of 2 Insistence la Mecea aary. THE mother who deplores the care lessness and untidiness of her big boy of 14 has not begun early enough to train him in neatness. Boys as well as girls can be taught to hang up their coats when they come in, to fold and place towels neatly on the nickel towel rack In the bathroom instead of fling ing them down in a wet heap, and to see that clothing removed for the night, is neatly adjusted, coat on a coat-hanger, trousers folded and laid across a chair-back, shoes together and under-garments placed where they can air during the night. These little habtts of neatness will be a help to the mother and will also be appreciated by the future wife, for the careless, untidy boy will grow in to the careless, untidy man who flings down soiled collars anywhere and leaves scraps of dirty shaving paper on the washbasin in the bathroom. Train the baby of two years to put his little shoes together and to carry them to the closet the moment they have been removed. He may also be taught, when three or four years old, to pick up and fold his little under garments and' hang them over chair backs before he goes to bed. There should be some trifling pun ishment for the child who flings down a wet towel in the bathroom instead of hanging it over the rack, and boys should be taught to wash off the grime from face and hands before using the towel. Every mother knows that, it isva trick of boyhood to transfer dirt from face and hands to the towel, in stead of using time and sufficient water first. Do not expect wee people to hang up suffered In any way. "Boris Godou now" retained its brilliancy and its sweep, "Carmen" had perhaps a more virile, more stirring presentation, as did "Prince Igor," which had as its greatest claim on the popular taste the folk music, the dances and a lovely role for Mme. Alda, who more than enhanced it. and one which was hardly big enough to carry the splendor of Amato's singing and .impersonation. He brought much that made for the suc cess of "Samson and Delilah," particu larly during the latter half of the sea son. Mme. Matzenauer's glorious singing was a feature of the first presentations and Mme. Homer's Delilah of the see on 1 with Caruso and Amato through out as hugely successful in their 'roles. It was strange to note as a feature of this season the revival of such operas as "Lucia," "La Sonnambula," and in a certain sense the stress that- was laid upon the "Barber of Seville" and "Rigoletto." The last named has al ways been duly successful, but that there should be no standing room for these old-timers requires the explana tion that Mme. Barrientos was the di rect magnet. This Spanish colorature came to the Metropolitan Opera-house in time to supply several sensational features and to establish for herself a position in the light colorature roles for next sea son. She made a - happy debut in "Lucia." which had four performances, and she had five appearances as Gilda, three in "La Sonnambula" and three in the "Barber." and she only arrived at the end of January and made her first appearance January 31. Mme. Hempel la Successful. "Marta" was " brought- forward De cember 11 with Mme. Hempel, Caruso, De Luca and Mme. Ober. but it only had four performances. Mme. Hempel was also equally successful in her role of the Marchioness in "Per Rosen kavalier," in which part Mme. Kurt was heard twice after Mme. Hempel'a term at the Metropolitan was over for the season. For the first time on any stage the Spanish opera "Goyescas" was sung with the composer and librettist present. It Is unhappy to have to say that up to the present time no news has been heard from Enrique Granados and his estimable wife, who were both on the ill-fated Sussex when she was sunk. Granados' was received socially and professionally with the greatest dis tinction and honors in New York. This opera, which had five perform ances, served for the engagement of the American singer, Anna Fitzlu, whose, experience in the opera-houses of Spain made her available for the leading soprano part. As a singer Miss Fitziu achieved no small degree of suc cess and brought into the limelight her teacher. Arthur Lawrason, whose con scientious work made it possible for this singer, whose early career was a brilliant one in musical comedy and through whose work she was enabled to make a grand opera career. Miss Fitziu was only heard in this opera. Incidentally it may be said that the role had been intended for Mile. Bori. Edith Mason One of Beat. Among other new singers at the Met ropolitan one of the most successful was Edith Mason, who has been heard in German and Italian repertory witi instantaneous and enduring success. M. de Luca proved satisfactory, and during Scotti's illness a mighty boon to the opera-house and to Amato, upon whose shoulders fell most of the re sponsibility. Julia Heinrich. Mme. -,Perini and Henri Scott all established their posi tions at this house, and Mme. Rappold had the opportunity to prove her value as an attractive artist, both in the Ital ian and in the German repertory. Her Aida and her Leonora were of especial significance. The Metropolitan Opera Company left on Sunday morning for Boston, where they will present as one of the novel ties "The Taming of the Shrew," which was brought forward in New York at the very end of the season. This work, by Goetz. prepared with great care and skill by Mr. Bodanzky in its two per formances, served as a splendid medium for Clarence. Whitehill. whose Potruc , cio was a- dashing;, brilliant impersona - 4 V - J ... o. '4 ; t."j... : : f ": ..?:-!.-'.;-t.'."- Vf coats and caps when the hooks in the closet or hall are impossibly nut of reach. Have a set of low hooks' for the children's use, and then see that they are used. lie Cornered Pa. (From the Argonaut.) All this talk of hyphenated citizen ship has evidently had its effect upon a San Francisco youngster. American born, who recently rebelled fiervely when his Italian father whipped, him for some misdemeanor. "But, Tomasso. your father hlas a right to whip you when you are bad," some one of the family said. Tomasso's eyes fished. "I am a citizen of the United States, he declared. "Do you think I am going lo let any foreigner lick me'.'" BIT OF AO VIC K. From the Kansas City Journal. 'Tis always well. Or so 1 guess. To plunge right in And get success. But here's another view Don't dedicate Yourself to strife, Foregoing all The joys of life. Don't let success get you. tion, and Mme. Ober ably seconded him in tlie role of Katherine. This work also gave some opportunity to Robert Leonhardt, who. is one- of the most thoroughly .routined artists and one of the most beautiful voices at the Met ropolitan, who will probably come into his own next season. No greater interest was ever mani fested on the Metropolitan stage than on the occasion of Mme. Schumann Heink'a appearance to sing Erda in the "Siegfried" performance of the after noon cycle. Mme. Homer came back during this time and it seemed like olden glories to welcome the two great favorites. Maude Fay Impresses. Marked interest was also shown when Maude Fay, the American dramatic so prano, who has for some years been famous in Munich, where she has been one of the leading favorites, sang the role of, Sieglinde. in "Die Walkure." Miss Fay was not in the best condi tion, as she had crossed the continent, arriving only in time to go on with the performance. She created a deep impression for the beauty of lines, her fine stage routine and her personal beauty. At the close of the perform ance she was more successful Vocaiiy than at the beginning, and there is little doubt that if Miss Fay had the benefit of a few years" stage experi ence in this country she would bring her singing to a much higher plane than any singer brings from a Ger man career. Fundamentally Miss Fay is a great artist and she has a voice of singular beauty. She suffers from the produc tion which for the want of a different terminology is designated in this coun try as "German method." CUTIOM MORIS SKIN TORTURED SLEEPLESS FRETTED LITTLE CHILDREN Bathe with Cuticura Soap and hot water. Drv and apply Cuticura Oint ment to affected skin. Nothing more cooling, soothing and healing. Sample Each Free- by Mail with 32-p. book on the aktn. Artrlrms post-c&rd: "Cuticura, Dept. 22G, Boston." Sold everywhere. 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Rinsing leaves the scalp spotlessly clean, soft and pliant, while the hair takes on the glossy richness of natural color, also . a fluffiness which makes it seem much heavier than it is. After a. canthrox shampoo arranging the hair is a pleas ure. Adv. Phone Your Want Ads to THE OREGONIAN Main 7070 A 6093 - 556