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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 2, 1916)
TTIK SUNDAY OREGOXIAN'. PORTLAND. APRIL t. 1910. SWALLOWS ARE POPULAR CONCEIT ON PRETTY NEW SPRING COSTUMES Fetching Set of Hat and Neckpiece of Blue Taffeta and Lisere Straw Are Designed for Beach Wear Modish Suit of Green Silk Is Proper Thing for Easter Sunday Sports. I: ; zz f y sfk- v r" 2f 1 1 : - -J - j f a ill C i ; 5 !--: 1 iSS: 1 ; ikii - - - ' ' ' ' " ! '1 tF two swallows do not make a Summer, assuredly four do, three on her Kaster sunshade and one on her Easier hat! This pretty conceit is the newest fad in fashion-Jom, and swallows are as popular now as bluebirds were last eason. The blue taffeta frock is tucked on skirt and tunic and sash-end and collar are trimmed with blue fringe to match the silk. Parasol and hat are blue also, with the appjiqued white swallows, and buttoned walking boots with white l;Ul tops complete a charming Spring costume. Tt always blows at the beaches: therefore, on a Spring morning one must have some sort of a smart ruff or ruche to protect the throat. From Alaria Guy comes a fetching set of hat and neckpiece, both made of blue taf feta, blue- and white lisere straw, and picot-edge blue ribbon. The hiKh crowned directoire hat accords well with the tall collar and cape of the neckpiece. Ripple collars of this sort nre lightly facfd with a resilient stif fening so that they stand out crisply over the shoulders. Tf one will in-.lnlge in sports on Kaster Sunday, oit must wear a mod ish sports suit. This one is of green silk jersey with collar and cuffs of a new silky velotir fabric. The soft skirt of silk jersey is worn over a green silk netticoat well stiffened with witchtex, the pew crushless distending fabric. A white panama straw sports hat, with "crown of green and white striped linen, matches the suit. Hair Is Done High to Help Tilt of Hat. furl and Puffx famine In Again, hut They Mum He Little Puffa In CluMterN Built I p High. BKCAl'SK hats are tilted over the nose, coiffures are built up at the back to assist the Jilt. Most women look well with the hair done high; and to women with irregular features this style is much more becoming than the knot low at the back which suits only the classic type of face and the small, wei l-sha ped head. The hair is not puffed out at all over the ears but Is waved low enough to cover them all except the ear-lobe, which is sometimes cociuettishly rouged, since rosy ears 61'orevt health and youth. When the face can stand it. the front hair is dragged back in a flat pompa dour, a curl or two escaping at the temples, but the average woman Is wise to part hr waved tresses and droop the waves slightly over the forehead, for it is the exceptional brow that can show itself clear to the hair line. By catching the waves at the parting together with an invisible hair- l'i int; lui rucou tan ue maue lo JOOK i lower: for though a lofty brow is said to be a sign of intelligence there is no doubt that a low forehead is re garded as a sign of beauty. Curls and puffs are coming in again with the high coiffure, and there is no prettier or more feminine and be witching hair-dressing than the clus ter of soft puffs arranged high on the head. The puffs must he small ones the old style sausage roll puffs do not appear at all and eight or 10 of the soft little puffs are clustered together over the flatly coiled ends of the natural hair. ' -AV- "7, rpiVJr i, . -' ST-1. 'I " . ' 1 ' . jiS PC ; .1;'! s- i-- it iirirrtin.iri mum" .xmumJ Tilings to Know IVoitli Knowing. To prevent cakes, pies and puddings from scorching place a dish of water in the oven. Stick a pin through the corks of bot tles containing poisons and this will prevent tragic mistakes when seeking medicine in the nght. When you' suspect that your cooking has been scorched because you have neglected it fcr just one moment too Jong, lift the vessel holding the food quickly from the fire and stand it in a pan of water for a few minutes. In al most every case the scorched taste will disappear. RED IS PREVAILING TONE IN WAISTS THIS SEASON Delicate Colors Show Best in Sheer and Semi-Sheer Fabrics Hand-Made Trimmings Feature of Gowns and Suits Lace Also Popular. velvet ribbon, while below this a cape" portion spreads out over the shoulder in a round line somewhat similar to the Puritan style collars, so fashionable a year ago. A second cape-collar model is of washable chif fon, in bright mulberry color, and hats the edge cut in big picot-f inished scal lops. This collar is semi-low in the neck and falls over the curve of the bhoulder. Some of. the more transparent cape collars are made in double or triple tiers, one falling below and beneath the other. Later in the season the low neck, it is said, will return, and there is al ready a foreshadowing of thitj comfort able warm-weather style in the wide chevalier collars and the Puritan and Quaker sets in handsome batiste and embroidery inset styles. The guimpe and vestee styles are ofteli designed to stand high in the neck, or at least high in the back of the neck. Small pearl buttons, narrow ribbons, flat bindings and hemstitched hems are employed, and here, as in every department of dress, we see all those new bright shades of "cherry color, mulberry, flame red and rose, which are so characteristic of the pres ent season, 1 Stocks Are AVnrn. There are many high "stock-' models alvso among the new. Spring neckwear. Of white pique. with outstanding points, and a striped nscot below, is -a model suitable for Fports or street wear. Other models button close up about the chin and ears, while a third variety in transparent materials stands out in a circular form around the -chin and sides of the face. The new wide-striped sport materials are attracting considerable attention and are being given prominent display in many windows. This material is of coarse linen weave, like canvas, of a heavy pongee character, or of a flannel nature. We have called your attention before to the fact that this wide-striped fabric was to be a coming note of the Spring for separate sport skirt wear and are now glad to be able to inform you that the material itself is'on view. Wide awning stripes, in two colors, as well as- the more comnllcated strips. called the "Callof stripes and which are made up not only of various color combinations, but also of various width stripes used in conjunction are used with the Ftripes running around or in diagonal linea. on the Spring sport skirts. This gives them a decided air of dashing newness indeed. We note, top, that shallow yokes are more often than not employed on skirts of this design. "Wln Stripca In Kavor. These same wide stripes are being used in Jersey cloth and other knitted fabrics for sport coaU. with skirts of a plain tone: as the fashionable method 6f utilizing these bold stripes seems to be to combine them with a plain tone garment, either coat or skirt, as the case may be. The silk frock still holds its place in the well-dressed woman's wardrobe. It is much too convenient and becoming to be supplanted by a tub frock, no matter how quaint and charming that may be. Taffeta and georgette are combined effectively in these dresses: net, too, Is being used more and more for the transparent sleeves and bodices now so modish. Two unusually attractive afternoon dresses of taffeta and Georgette are cleverly designed to display several interesting new features. One dress is a hand-embroidered blue taffeta, with transparent sleeves. A bit of colored embroidery on the wide revers adds the touch of contrast which makes the frock chic. The other dress combines a flowered Georgette with plain taffeta. The sleeves and pointed bodice are un usual, and .effective, and pink taffeta ruffling adda a quaint, pleasing note. A soft lace collar, combining in its ar rangement the modish high dressing with the comfort and softness of the open throat, completes a most attrac tive frock for almost any daytime func tion. Hand-Made TrlmmlnEa lined. Hand-made trimmings will be a fea ture of gowna and suits this season; many of these trimmings are machine made, but they have much the same ef fect as the old-time quillings, shirrings, smockings, puffings and cordings, over which our grandmothers spent so many long hours. This trimming idea is quite in keeping with the full skirts. simple bodices, quaint sleeves and other old-time ideas now being revived by Dime Fashion for the Spring and Sum mer of 1916. Lace and flouncings of all kinds will be used considerably on Summer dresses, in fact, one might call it season of lace and net. Both are being used extensively for gowns, blouses and millinery purposes. Any bit of lace one may possess this Summer may be employed advantageously on hat or gown. Some of the most fascinating of the new Spring hats are made of colored straws draped with thin black lace. The thread laces are favorites, and Valenciennes lace is used quite as much as ever on tub. frocks. i Cutting and Puling. Kansas Pity Journal. "Cutting and fitting go together dressmaking, 'hut not necessarily tpeechmaking." " hat s wrong at your club, dear?" "We asked Mrs. Flubdub to make feme fitting remarks, and she made some cutting remarks." my SPRING waists are numerous in de sign and in color, though as to the latter, variations of red are just now strongly in "the lead. There are fellow-reds, called "flame." pur plish reds called mulberry and rasp berry, the wild cherry reds, and the many rose tones, all of which are dis tinctly "new" colorings and have a rather futurist air about them, as though eacn one was so sure of its own fashionablenees and equally sure there wasn't one ordinary red among them. These colorings are seen at their best advantage in sheer and semi-sheer fabrics, with the result that there are any number of waist models in or gandie, chiffon, sheer crepe, marqui sette, voile and mousseline. ae well as examples in crepe de chine, silk mull, chiffon taffeta and wash satin. A well-liked Spring waist design has been brought out in colored linens of rose shades, blue, violet and green. In this model the double-breasted button ing is ueed and there is no trimming save big white pearl buttons and flat, tape-worked buttonholes. Above the four buttons and big buttonholes, which close this waist in the front, the linen is folded back In two rounded revers. which are. buttoned onto a cir cular collar with pearl buttons and two buttonholes of white tfipe. The tailored models are showing" shallow fchoulUer yokes in front, below which the waist is laid in pleats. A wild cherry crepe de chine design of this nature has a row of material cov ered buttons and real buttonholes as an ornamental touch to this yoke. The waist itself is buttoned -with eimilar buttons up the center front, which forms a wide box pleat between the two side pleatings. This buttoning continues straight up the front of the high choker collar. Another design shows the waist really fastened by means of this yoke, buttoning at the shoulders, where the buttoning continues around the arm hole and down the under-arm seam. Another Spring waist model, which is taking well, is that of the quaint pointed fastening, where, two shaped points are buttoned over, one on each side of the waist frunt in a sort of "dove-tailing" manner. Natural-colored pongee and natural colored linen models have buttons of the material on which there have been embroidered some small flower or fancy design in bright wool or wash silks. Cape Walstx Shown. Many "cape" waists are also being shown. These take the form of the cape neckwear, save that the cape col lar is here part and parcel with the waist iteelf. A pretty model, of the cape-collar effect, is of French biue organdie, with an edging of white, and has a standing coll-'V i.tl-.i Bi't'ii. th'- ti-ck with r. 'iue Reversible Petticoat Is Frill for Economical Women. Lat Seanon'a Silk Frock Mar Re H roll gilt Down to Date ! I Be of Tunic and Full Sleevee. ISLANDS OF HAWAII AND VOLCANO OF KILAUEA TERMED WONDERLAND Laura Baldwin Doolittle Express Delight at Finding Marvelous Garden Spot of Nature, Where Delightful. Cul tured People and Hospitable Natives Extend Every Courtesy and 'Where All Conveniences Are at Hand. 9 S i . r a V' va av I " t"- -S , -x N Xk ' x v I " .7- x x - . x r 1 1 t T '' .'. -A-s S . . x.. -t r -t? : 7-75 . rz t-T o 77r : VC3 Vx' i,fAt.--- l. - - v i , s - - 1 ifTV. iv5r. .. J- at-" .- io.? -X- v FOR the economical woman there is a new reversible petticoat for wear with evening frocks. The petticoat Is made of flesh-pink debutante satin and has a 12-inch flounce, faced within the deep hem with light, resilient stiffen ing material, so that there is crisp flare at the edge. Rows of inch-wide ribbon are stitched on the flounce and the ribbon matches the color of the pet ticoat. On the reverse side of the flounce are rows of ribbon In a daintily contrasting color, stitched exactly over the rows on the other side. These pet ticoats come also in. white and in pale corncolor, the corn-colored model hav ing self-toned ribbon on one side and lavender ribbon on the other. Hip hoops are for wear beneath dance frocks having panniers or puffed draperies at the sides. The hoops supple, ones of featherbone are run into the full net petticoat at the hip and about six inches below and the edge of the petticoat Is finished with a lace frill. These petticoats are worn under more elaborate ones of silk or lace. Pale gray veils are smart, but should be avoided by women with colorless skins.. Brown veils are universally be coming except when the hair is very gray. Most becoming of all Is the white veil with black hand-run threads or a small black leaf design. These may be had in octagon and open lattice mesh and with narrow border patterns. A, good -way to bring last season's silk frock up to date is to combine it with new silk, which will furnish a full tunic, some sort of girdle and long, full sleeves. The original frock may be used for the foundation skirt and bod ice, the new silk girdle, fitted and f eatherboned. drawing in the bodice to this year's slim, trim line. Widen the skirt by setting in gores made of tunic that was almost surely a part of last year's silk frock, or, if It was a tucked skirt, let out the tucks and use the upper part of the skirt to widen the lower part, hanging the foundation from a "drop" of thin lining fabric. The new silk will furnish an ample tunic, pleated at the waistline and falling in deep points over the widened foundation. To Deodorize Pans Kasily Done. After cooking onions, cabbage or fish try this plan: Wash and dry the pan. then place a piece of thick brown paper on the stove, set fire to It and turn the saucepan over the blaze. After a few minutes remove it and the odor will not h- noticed, - BY I.AITR.V BALDWIN nuOhlTTLK. HIL.O. Hawaii. March 28. 1 special.) Hawafi Island, largest of the Hawaiian group, was seen at ith best when we anchored in Half Moon Bay. It was about tt o'clock in the morning, and as we came in we had a perfect view of the mountains, Mauna Kea and Mauna l.oa : Mauna Koa snow clad, gleuming white against the azure blue sky of the tropics. It was an ex quisite picture with all the middle dis tance in soft pnstelle sondes of gray, violet, blue and green, while in the immediate foreground was a dash or brilliant red in the roofs of the houses, and in the native boats that came out to meet the big ocean liner that brought several hundred people to see the great1 volcano Kilauea. The steamer makes a stopover of a day in Hilo, that ail may see this active crater both by day and by night. A ladder was lashed to the side of the steamer and we were taken out In small native launches to the wharf, where each one was decorated with a lei. a native ceremony that to me Is both charming and artistic. The leis are long wreath necklaces of yellow, or red and yellow, with a card of wel come from the Chamber of Commerce. The natives w.elcome all alike, and their "Aloha" means welcome, love and greetings. The kindly, rffectionate dispositions of this people is felt at once. They as sist you with your luggage, direct you to your train or carriage, and in every way show such courteous attention that vou enter into the holiday spirit of it and laugh and chat with them. They are gentle and they are happy, and they wish to make all guests Teol welcome and at home. Hotel Site Brnutifnl. At the wharf you take your train, an engine and five or six small cars about the size of streetcars, for the village of Hilo, where autos or another train are taken for the volcano. First you have luncheon at the" Hi;o Hotel, a very modern up-to-date little, hotel, that accommodates all in the very best way. It is beautifully situated among luxuriant ferns and tropical trees. An auto takes you for a spin about town, and up to the volcano and back for $S or $10. By railroad it costs $.".. The auto trip is by far the best, giving a much finer view of the scenery. Hawaii is a "country in the making." where the infatuated were all the luxuries of any well-appointed town in the States. The town of Hilo has about 10.000 .inhabitants. There are no streetcars, but instead there is the modern "jit ney." although they do not call it so here. Instead it is the "auto bus," and they charge you 15 cents or 25 cents for a short or long trip about town. Hoarding Hounc L nlqur. , Mrs. Weight has a very pleasant boarding house. She has taken one of the fine old homes, the Lyman house, and fitted it up for a boarding house. It is big and roomy. My room is on the tirst rioor at the end of the long ver anda, and opens out upon it with Just French doors of green slats, the regu lar old-fashioned Colonial blinds of the ;iouth. The lumber of this house, which was built for one' of the first mission aries. Mr. Lyman, or Father Lyman, as he was affectionately called, was br6ught around the Horn in 1!32 in a sailing vessel, and is perfectly gO"d yet. Kacli room has a big bed 'with a snowy white ennopy of cabel net that reminds me of the old French Colonial bed in Louisiana. There are electric lights, good furniture, and everything immaculately clean. There are bath rooms, and a telephone, so one does not lack Tor modern conveniences. A tiny little Japanese woman takes care of you and your room. She tidies up everything, and smiles at you and makes you feel sure that nothing will be out of plaee nor disappear while you are there. We never lock a door nor a window, and I never even lock up any of my personal belongings. There is a perfectly kept lawn with a walk bordered with flowers, violets, roees, lilies. hibiscus, and numerous other flowers. All the different va rieties of the tropical trees of the IsImhH can he found here. tall, stately mateur geologist is quite ( ,.ocoanlJj trees whose tuft of leaves at The lava overflows ni the top are outlined against the sky. changes the contour of the island quite j often. It did so even as. recently as 1907. There was a great river of lava that overflowed the island in places, covering up trees, piling up in other places and rolling to the sea in others, completely changing the appearance or th" place. This trip to the crater of the greatT est active volcano in the world is the feature of the stop at Hilo, but I would advise every one to stop off at least for a month, for it is very much worth one'i time. There is only one large steamer that stops at Hilo first. The others all go direct to Honolulu, and then one makes a short tri; of the is lands by way of the Inter-Isla'nd Steamship Company's smaller boats, seldom stopping long enoifgh to see the interesting places on this wonderful island of Hawaii, the largest of thein all. This is the birthplace of the kings and nobility of the islands. Here the greatest of their Kings. Kamehameha. was born, and lived until he de cided to conquer all the islands, thus forming an empire and founding the line of their noble Kings. Comfort Shop I'lrMni. T stopped off at Hilo for a month, having a letter of introduction to the Misses Pomeroy. who have the Comfort Shop, and I wondered all the way over why it was so named, but I soon found out. I went there immediately upon landing, and was given a delicious cup of tea. They serve tea. sandwiches and little cakes, to all who wish. It is a comfort to the wives of the rich plant ers and the few tourists that are fortu nate enough to hear about it. Also, when I wanted a new invisible hair net, and could not get light blonde at any of the stores, I found it at the Comfort Shop. Their policy is to carry the little things that others do not, mostly pretty little things, little book lets, pretty laces, friendship cards, bits of pottery, pictures, beads and the most fascinating small boxes, made by a na tive girl, and exquisitely done in white bamboo and dark brown of the tree fern. There are also mats and floor cov erings of Lahola, woven in a plain geo metric pattern that is most artistic. From Japan there are suitcases and traveling bags, also innumerable things that I did not expect to find here. I was not sure when f c:tme but that 1 should find only natives and no con tinental conveniences, bit instead there and are most artistic; dark luxuriant mango trees. guavas wnose iruu makes the most delicious jelly, papaia. alligato- pears, bread fruit, coffee, and several other trees and shrubs. Tablr Im C.ood. The table Is very good, just whole some home-made things with plenty of salads and fresh fruits and vege tables. I pay $12 a week, or $2.30 a day for lees than a week. One can get a good auto and a Japa nese driver for $1 an hour, and there are so many attractive places to see. The "Boiling Pots" is a most interest ing place. Miss Pomeroy and Miss Charlotte Hapai took me there. They brought me a lei of violets to wear, a gift of friendship that is lovely I think. We spent the forenoon there taking pictures, and it would make an idea, all-day picnic place. Here the Peepee l"a!Te rush down over a lava ledge some 75 feet into a round basin that is called the boiling pot. There are several pots, some connected by the stream. Snow-capped Mauna Kea is in the distance, and with the fieecy white clouds in the " intensely blue sky It makes a picture that one wants to paint as well as photograph. On the way out to the Falls one passes numerous fields of sugar cane, and just now the men are cutting it and sending it to the mills in flumes of running water. It. is a most inter esting sight to one not familiar with the sugar industry. .It takes IS months or two years for the cane to grow again to maturity ready for cutting, but it starts growing at once, and the fields are cut over and over, year after year without replanting. the- new growth springing from the old roots. Hock Prove Interesting. Along the road was another Interest ing sight. There was a running brook and in it were large stones with a-few hieroglyphics cut into them that meant nothing to me, until I saw a Portu guese girl bring out the family wash ing. She stood barefooted in the brook and did her washing on these - same stones that are made useful by those same hieroglyphics, rubbing the clothes with soap on the stones, and then boil ing them in a pot over an open fire at the side of the brook, afterwards rins ing them and then spreading them to dry on the low growing bushes. Nearer town in the same direction is another most interesting place to see. in fact within walking distance. anI tin's is Rainbow Falls. where any morning when the sun shines, about S to lo o'clock, one can see the lovely rainbows made by the spray of the falls. A very modern little Slimmer house lias been built here for the ben efit of the visitors, who run sit her3 and watch "the waters come down at Hilo" instead of "I. adore." The waters rush down over So feet in front of iL deep dark cave in the lava rocks that makes one wish to explore farther. There is another most interesting place near Hilo. This is the Kaumano. Caves. They are about four or fiv miles back from the village, and ex tend for miles under the old lava flow. The brilliant coloring where the water has filtered through, together with th streaks of rainbow colored enamel on the sides of the caves against the back ground of dark lava that has formed c-oth m stalagnites and stalactites, all make it most interesting. Natural Arch Viewed. A drive of about six miles northward, along the shore. crossing gurgling streams that dash flown over lava, ledges in small picturesque waterfalls that soon. flow inio the sea. over an old-fashioned briogc that spans Hon olii (Sulch and tliat just fits into the picture, past plantatiou villages of quaint little houses and big school buildings, past cane fields of the fresh est Springtime green, along hiiih cliffs where the waves of the sea dash and foam, and then there is the Arch! Ono mea Arch A perfect natural arch un der a cliff covered with foliage that extends out into the ocean. This is a, scene worth driving many miles to see. This arch extending into the ocean makes a bay where the dark rocks, tlio luscious green of the distant can fields, the tall co-oanut trees, the dark er green of the breadfruit and guavas, the knotted. straggling. picturesque monkeypod trees, the green and blue of the water with its purple shadows, and pale green and frosty white crest ed waves 'dashing in on the shore, makes a picture for an artist to rave about. 4'ocoanutM Are Kcat. Cocoa nut Island, in the Bay, Is an other interesting place. It is a good, place to go for a swim. After your swim one. .f the native boys will clim a ctHOannt tree for you, get a coi-oa-nut and crack it for you. for 10 cents, and then you will have a little feast of fresh milk and sweet, fresh cocoa nut meat. There are many fine bathing places near the town, and many people havo their little cottages along tne beach where they can go for a day's outing and a swim or for a week end. The bathing is giood the whole year round. We had a delightful afternoon at one of these cottages, owned by tiie Misses Hapai. They took me out there for an afternoon to meet a number of their friends. The young people all went in bath ing. Afterwards we all had tea under the Lahola trees. Amoncst the guests were Mr. and Mrs. I-aughttm. formerly of San Francisco, where he substituted for Dr. Aked while the Rev. Ir. Aked was in Kurope. They came, here for the little daughter's health, and he is preaching in the Foreign Church here He is a very hrilliant man. and to hear hint preach is a treat indeed. One could not find a more cultured lot of people any place than one meets right here in Hilo. They dress equally as well, are up to date in the fashions, and all the little formalities of society are followed the same as in other places of culture and refinement. Japanese Cureall Advertised. China is overrun with Japanese patent medicines. The ignorance of the great mass of the people makes them par ticularly gullible. On a poster scat tered widely over the province of Ku kien is a list of all the diseases a cer tain medicine will cure. The claims" are exceedingly comprehensive. Then at the end of the list the poster goes on to observe: "If thi re ;ir any other diseases not mentioned in the list above that are peculiar to your locality, be sur it will ' lire them, too." World, outlook, 1