TIIE STJXDAT OREGOXIAX, TOUTLAKD, MARCH 2G, lOlC.
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SOMETHING entirely new is shown
in the straight-across yoke from
which falls a tulle frill that de
clares itself a sleeve. Pointed draperies
of tulle in two shades of blue float
over a skirt of silver tissue. Beneath
is a skirt of gray satin, faced with a
resilient lining material that Insures
the light, airy flare desirable in this
eort of frock. Blue ribbon brocade
with silver gray and white is arranged
in girdle draperies with bewitching ef
fect. Like all exclusive models for mourn
ing wear, one of the latest frocks owes
its distinction to handsome materials
combined in an effect of rich sim
plicity. The tucked skirt and bodice
are of white Georgette crepe embroid
ered with dull white beads in a dainty
outline design. The apron drapery at
the skirt front bespeaks a couturier
who advocates the peasant, or Breton,
styles, which are in favor in Paris. The
pointed euff. over which bags a full
bishop sleeve, is a notable detail. Cuff
and girdle are of dead white pussy
willow taffeta.
Enchanting, truly, i3 a little after
noon frock for a bridge hostess. White
Georgette crepe and pussy-willow silk,
with a pink rose and black stripe pom
padour pattern on the white ground,
are combined in the model, and all the
color is focused by a narrow sash of
nattier blue ribbon.' which also seems
to draw in the soft fullness of the
Irock to reveal a trim waistHne. Light
resilient lining fabric is introduced
under the panniers so that they main
tain their flare over the hips even
after being crushed in a chair.
Models along the latest lines featur
ing designs such as these are being dis
Tlayed this week in all of the leading
retail houses of the city which deal in
women's apparel.
The retail merchants' bureau of the
Chamber of Commerce has long been
carrying on a firm campaign to im
press upon the minds of the people of
Portland that there is no occasion to
have their apparel produced outside of
Portland, but that the shops and stores
of this city are fully prepared to give
the people the best that can be ob
tained anywhere.
Especially toward the women shop
pers the campaign has been directed,
end the Spring styles exhibit, which
opens today in the stores of the city,
is the biggest feature that has been
developed in the campaign.
The latest and most attractive East
ern models are being shown in wom
en's apparel throughout the exhibit and
the merchants of the city are chal
lenging the feminine shoppers especial
ly to come to the stores with a single
fancy in the matter of dainty and up-to-date
wearing apparel which cannot
be met from the stocks of the Portland
ctores.
Citron Is Shade of Shades in
Paris Just Now.
Grajlxh-Grrfii Tan and Pinkish Tel
low Harmonize Smartlj- A skirts
Grow W ider, Bodicea Become Nar
rower, v
CITRON is the shade of shades in
Paris Just now. It is a grayish
green tan with which a certain pinkish-yellow
harmonizes smartly, and one
fees much of this salmon pink also on
young women -"to the middle-aged it
is sadly trying. Citron topcoats of
gabardine are accompanied by little
hats of salmon-pink silk: and black
straw sailors are banded with citron
crepe, a tiny Falmon-pink flower rest
ing against the brim in front.
As skirts grow wider, bodicee grow
narrower; as must be the case if the
silhouette is to be symmetrical. The
Spring corset is built to give the fig
vire a trim look above the waist; that
Is. it is somewhat higher than last
year's model, and a carefully-fitted
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brassiere keeps the line at the bust
flat and youthful.
If a little more flesh goes into the
hips than was permissible last year it
does not matter, pince all skirts are
distended at the hips Bodices are fit
ted with extija care also, many of them
having darts and corded eeams at the
back and f eatherboning in the seams
helps to give the desirable trim appear
ance. Even the , draped bodice is
drawn over a fitted and featherboned
foundation, usually of silk, but Home
times of net, when the outer fabrics
are soft and sheer.
Now that bulky fur collars are be
ginning to be laid aside on days when
the breath of Spring can be felt, veils
are coming into their own. With the
tall fur collar the only possible veil
is a close one, drawn under the chin, or
a fluttering "skirt" veil falling no low
er than the tip of the nope. But with
the bulky collar gone, floating veils
appear, and some of these are rarely
becoming.
The favor is for a rather fine hexa
gon mesh With a dainty hand-drawn
or hand-run pattern straying up from
an equally dainty border design; and
the veil that falls longer at the front
than at the back the Spring style it is
called is smarter than the straight
vtil with long ends at the back.
Take Care of Your Veil.
The appearance of a veil depends on
its freshness, and its freshness depends
on the way it is taken care of. So it i
well worth everybody's time to keep a
veil free from wrinkles. Koll It, it
possible, on a cylinder especially kept
for the purpose. This can be covered
with silk or cretonne and it should be
a little wider than the veil kept on it.
Never fold a, wet veil, as the folds
will stick together if you dr.
Blue veils of lace and net are smart
with blue suits and frocke, and plum
or purple veils, too, are worn with
suits of those colors.
Dictates of Fashion Told.
Coats of the new cream fabric prom
ise to be popular.
Broadcloth evening shoes always
have a. definite charm.
Very soft woolens seem to be in fa
vor for Spring skirts.
Dainty robes of embroidered flounc
ing are again in vogue.
Leather belts and trimmings are a
feature of many sports suits.
Long transparent sleeves are often
used for tulle theater frocks.
Black velvet is said to be as uni
versally becoming as blue serge.
The inexpensive evening wrap can
be made rich by velvet trimming.
Becomingness and style are indis
pensable nowadays for motor coats.
Tucks on the new chiffon dresses are
run with ribbon of a contrasting color.
Picot edged taffeta, as well as taffeta
pinked as to edges, forms a substitute
for the inevitable fur trimming.
Fashion Lines Demand Tight
Bodice and Full Skirt.
Silhouette Gives Effect of Smart
neaa Moderate Decollete Permit
ted for Before-Dinner Costumes.
IN ADDITION to trot-about frocks
and simple but dainty silk frocks
for restaurant wear under the motor
coat, the woman of fashion must be
supplied with a-few very dressy after
noon costumes for occasions of a
formal nature. ,
There are as many sorts of bridge
frocks as there are kinds of bridge
parties. Where four or eight are gath
ered together for a quiet afternoon
game and a cup of tea, the simple little
silk frock, or even a tailored skirt and
dainty lace blouse will be quite en
regie; but there are large bridge par
ties where very elaborate costumes are
the rule, where hats are retained
through the afternoon and the women
dress and act exactly as they would
at a very formal reception. At such a
"bridge" one may wear one's very best
in the way of afternoon frocks.
Each Affair Has Its Costume.
There are, also, afternoon sweddings
and receptions and formal luncheons
and club breakfasts, all- of which de
mand distinguished costumes. At high
noon weddings, followed by a wedding
breakfast, one dre3ses as for a late
afternoon reception. In May come the
country club openings and the yacht
club openings. So. it will be seen that
the woman who takes her part in so
cial doings will require at least one or
two very handsome and elaborate after
noon costumes of an entirely different
type from frocks designed for gaslight
wear.
. Of course, silk Is the correct material
for the formal afternoon costume: silk
with an introduction of airy stuff like
chiffon. Georgette crepe, net of the new
will-o'-the-wisp, which is a particu
larly beautiful fabric, lustrous and
silky Jn addition to its diaphanous
weave. Coffee-colored Georgette crepe
and orange will-o'-the-wisp are com
bined in a bridge gowr recently or
dered by an April bride-to-be-Quaker
Shade Fashionable.
On. the orange ground are embroid
eries in silver and brown and there is
a drapery of orange will-o'-the-wisp
dragged down in points by silver tas
sels. Another frock is of dove gray
pussy willow and will-o'-the-wisp in
the same shade, broad bands of the
sheer material being set into the full
taffeta skirt with hemstitching. The
upper part of the bodice is of gray taf
feta in bolero shape, hemstitched into
the will-o'-the-wisp of the lower bod
ice. The sleeves are of the sheer ma
terial with pointed taffeta cuffs.
Perhaps half of the formal afternoon
frocks being turned out just now are
in one tone of gray- or another.; Never
was the Quaker shade so fashionable
and the best of it is, one does not tire
of gray.
Silhouette Is Secret of Style.
Not by daring color combinations or
by combinations of material is modish
ness achieved these'days combinations
of color and fabric are only secondary
in consideration. The true secret of
smartness lies in the silhouette. It
must flare widely below tfce waist and
above it be as snug as possible. The
new bodices are fitted over foundations
shaped to the figure with f eatherboone.
and sometimes bones are inserted in the
bodice itself under darts or seams em
phasized conspicuously so that no one
may doubt that they are the last word
of the new. The waistline is placed at
the normal position and below flares
out the bewltchingly full skirt, layers
and layers of skirt if the material is
airy; gathers and gathers of skirt if
silk or other new uutransparent stuff
is used. . . y
All Are Distended Now.
A great deal of skill is reuired to
make the skirt full enough at the hem
without bulkiness at the waistline.
Sometimes the skirt is niade in three
gathered sections which are joined un
der tucks or bands of horizontal trim
ming. This is an excellent method
when the figure is not slim enough to
stand very full gathers at the belt line.
All skirts in costumes of the formal
afternoon type under- present consid
eration are distended in one way or
another to give the flaring silhouette
so imperative. Skirts of tulle or net,
or of chiffon, are worn over petti
coats run with featherbone hoops; a
petticoat flounce of lace or embroid
ered net falling from the lowest hoop.
Where it is possible to introduce a
facing of stiffening material this is
done, for the resilient facing is more
comfortable than the actual hoop. It
can be crushed into a chair or taxi,
springing out immediately to the flar
ing effect intended by the dressmaker
and since it is so flexible despite its
resilient character, the frock can pass
between groups of people or through
a narrow doorway or between pieces
of furniture more gracefully than when
hoops are used. '
For a bridge hostess is an adorable
pompadour frock with pannier drap
eries of flowered pompadour silk, (the
flower clusters grouped against black
and white stripes) lifted above the
skirt of pale blue taffeta. The basque
bodice points below the waist at back
and front and is piped and corded at
seams and edge. This tight little
bodice has elbow Bleeves with frills
and coquettish ribbon bows of black
velvet to carry out the pompadour ef
fect. Although the hostess may affect
three-quarter or elbow sleeves on her
dainty afternoon frock, guestB who
come in formal costumes accompanied
by hats, have long sleeves; and all
such sleeves Just now are of transpar
ent fabric matching or harmonizing
with the gown. In fact, sleeves give
the afternoon or evening character to
a handsome silk gown. Very often
the afternoon decolletage is quite pro
nounced, but long sleeves prove that
the costume is intended for afternoon
and not evening wear.
Many of the smart afternoon models
are obtainable in dull black or in
chalk for half-mourning wear, for in
the second year of mourning one may
attend informal bridge affairs and
weddings. Black or white Georgette
crepe and will-o'-the-wisp, or layers
of net make these mourning gowns
verv graceful and beautiful. The
white models are the favorites' now
that warmer days ara approaching.
SMART BOYS WILL WEAR
RAH-RAH CHAPEAUX
Youngsters Styles Now Hold Important Place in Spring Clothing
Displays Dad's Cut-Downs No Longer Recherche.
Devoted la he
JIEAITHXOMFORTBEAUTY
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Trade inthe" Self-Help"
Nemo Wonderlift Corset
Nourishes like a green bay
tree. In less than a year, tbei
number of delighted wear-'
ers has run into hundreds;
of thousands. i
As a hygienic adjunct, '
the Nemo Wonderlift
Bandlet hasbeenendorsed,
we believe, by every phy
sician Tvho has seen it.
No corsets ever had finer
fashdon-Unes.
This diagram roughly
shows the position and ac
tion of the Bandlet after'
adjustment:
Tha adjustment, by the inside'
lacing, LIFTS UP a saggingabdomen;
restores the internal organs to
proper place; gives firm and com-
fortablo support; prevents, re-1
lieves and often cures many of tha !
painful and dangerous disorders of j
womankind. j
This "Self-Help" Corset en- j
ables every woman to HELP
HERSELF to health and good
looks. It is an effective aid in I
many cases that medicine can- j
not reach, as any doctor will
tell yoa. j
Models for all figures. Thes j
are most in demand:
THERE is -a growing tendency to
ward diversity of distinctive styles
in Juvenile clothing as in the
clothing of adults, and this condition is
being given its share of attention in
the Spring Styles exhibit of the retail
merchants of the city, which is be
ginning today.
The time when the growing boy re
garded it as one of the workings of
Fate that he should be the direct heir
to the castoff apparel of his father or
elder brother, began to vanish with the
vanishng of the era of homespun and
home-knit wear, and has developed to
the point where the Juvenile depart
ment of the clothing business is quite
as important as the department that
caters to father and elder brother.
The boy's fashions follow, on more
restricted lines, the movements of the
fashions in men's clothing and are sub
ject to as many changes, though on a
lesser scale.
Little boys between the ages of 2
and 6 years have graduated, for in
stance, from theera of bloomer effects
in trousers. For Spring wear they will
have a short-belted coat, a short Jacket
and their pants will be cut straight in
stead of full like bloomers a faint
echo, perhaps, of the straight, close
English cut that has come into vogue
in the trousers of the grown-up.
Common Sense Shoes in Vogue.
Little top coats, with patch pockets
and belted or box backs are in order
for boys from 2 to 10 years old, and
the prevailing type of hat is the round
crowned, turn-dywn-brlm, rah-rah hat.
Cloth is the style for little boys' hats,
in preference to felt.
The suits for older boys tend all to
ward the belted or pinch back, and
knickerbocker trousers. All boys' suits
now are belted.
As for overcoats, fashion takes no
cognizance of them in connection with
the wardrobe of the older boys. For
Winter wear the mackinaw is the ac
cepted form of overcoat for the boy.
In shoes the variety of materials is
almost as great as in the footwear of
adults, but in both boys' and girls'
shoes the general tendency is toward
broad-soled common sense patterns and
light leather..
FASHION HAS RULES
FOR MERE MAN, ALSO
Care Is Needed in Study of "Just What They re Wearing Now," if One
Is to Be Dressed in Correct Smartness.
THE fashions of American men are
not European, not American, but
cosmopolitan and take' their in
spiration from that coterie of favored
individuals who practice the fine art
of leisure ana to whom smartness of
attire and perlect grooming of the per
son are articles pi: lann.
The average man does not care to
be told about fashions in business
clothes. He knows pretty well what
these are and rs apt to dress in the
very best business style he can afford
and in conformity with the style limita
tions' of the particular burg which he
inhabits.
What would be quite the proper thing
on Wall street in New York might be
deemed an affectation i tt Montpelier,
Vt., or Sandusky. O. a bit of harmless
vanity tolerated by his confreres; per
haps even a real menace to his busi
ness success in a community not so
tolerant. It is in the formal niceties
of apparel that the average man desires
illumination.
There arises a oclal occasion which
demands of him the formality of cut
away or full dress costume, and though
he hates to admit it most of all to his
women folk he is a litrle at sea as to
"just what they are wearing now."
The proper cutaway for formal after
noon wear has two buttons, a well de
fined waistline, full skirts and a good
sized waistcoat opening so that plenty
of tie. may show. Cutaways are braided
and unbraided and have peaked and
notched lapels these are minor details.
The important thing is that the cut
away shall fit so perfectly and so easily
that its wearer feels absolutely at home
and unconstrained in it. ---
Trousers for formal day wear are
always gray in striped effect and care
should be taken not to have the gray
too light.
With the cutaway one wears an over
coat similar to the overcoat worn with
evening dress. It should be of dark
Oxford or black, single or double
breasted and slightly curved in at the
waist. The silk hat has a pronounced
roll of brim . and a slightly belled
ocown. To look smartly correct it
must be worn over hair cut in the
smart fashion; that is no closely
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WNDERUFI
554!
woNDERLlfT
Es)E?
555 taller full figures C "J
One model. No. 998, is for1
very large women with heavy,
hanging abdomen the only ready
made corset for women of that
type. Large sizes only 30 to 44.
A great value at $10.00.
Another, No. 557, is for slim
women - with concave abdomen;
novel supporting pads. Nothing,
like it $5.00.
A PREDICTION
In due time, nearly all women
who wear corsets will wear a
Nemo Wonderlift.
NEMO SELF-REDUCING
$3.50, $4, $5, up to $10
NEMO MILITARY-BELT
For the Slender.. $3. oO
BE A WISE WOMAN
Wear.the RIGHT Nemo!
GOOD STORES EVERYWHERE
Nna Hniuic-Fuliiea Uatitala. Nw Trk
cropped below the crown of the head
that the hat seems almost to be ad
justed over a bald pate.
As to boots; for formal afternoon
wear with the cutaway suit, they must
be of patent leather with buttoned tops
of dull calf, or buttoned spats of pearl
gray cloth.
As to gloves: Tellow chamois ones
are correct with the cutaway; or putty
colored kid with dark stitching. A,
few faddish young fellows affect white
buck with black stitching; but this is
rather farther than the average man.
cares to go.
Black or dark gray silk socks with
black clocks will be the best choice In
hosiery. . '
The average man puts his dress
clothes away with the beginning of
the warm season, but finds use for his
Tuxedo or dinner coat all Summer. At
most of the Summer resorts evening
clothes are replaced by common consent
through July and August, by the dark
blue coat and white flannel : trouser
combination which Is worn even at
large affairs where the women are in
the glory of full evening dress. The
waistcoat always accompanies such a
costume for formality's sake . and for
footwear, white buck Oxfords or danc
ing pumps of gunmetal.
The snappy Spring overcoat does not
curve in at the waistline. That style,
say the authoritative tailors, is pass
ing. The new coat has easy sloping
shoulders, a soft full drape around
the limbs, broadish collar and lapel and
deep patch pockets obliquely placed.
It is made of tweed or rovert. Faddish
topcoats for young chaps have ehoul-der-capes
which t fasten, Inverness
style, closely to the throat.
Spring suits, however, retain the
waistline curve in very apparent de
gree. They are three-button and two
button, with soft roll, English notched
collar or a soft roll collar with peaked
lapel. The waistcoat is high and favor
seems to run toward ties of bright
color; in contrast with the omber
hues in vogue since the beginning of
the war.
For sport wear the Norfolk Is fa
vored, the best model having belt across
the back only, with English notch col
lar and patch pockets. Many of these
coats are of knitted fabric, worn with
striped white serge trousers and soft
tweed hats or with tweed knickers.
The accepted straw hat for 1916 has a
moderate crown and brim a trifle
wider than last season. It is worn
rather high on the head, showing the
closely cropped hair at sides and back.
Young men are selecting the alpine of
panama as most expressive of the ex-,
treme in style.