6
TITE SUNDAY OTIEGONTAX. rORTLAXD, MARCn 20; 191G.
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THE most advanced styles show that
this is to be .a buckle season in
slipper and pump wear. And the
bigger and more conspicuous the buck
les the smarter they will look on d-ain-tily
cut little pumps of the modern,
thin-soled, slender-tied and high'heeled
variety, fashioned of soft, fine kid.
Some stunning buckles are being shown
by the exclusive shoe shops and one
buys one's buckles separately, paying
for them anywhere from half a dollar
to half a score of dollars and, 'of
course, the more expensive the buckles
the more eclat to one's costume! Of
cut steel, etched silver and oxidized
silver with jewels are the new buckles,
the jeweled effects being intended, of
course, for evening war.
Pretty and becoming as was the
glove-fitting, unornamented pump of
last Summer, it has been adjudged "too
plain" and "too bare looking." Hence
the sudden return to Colonial and buck
led effects. Most of the new buckled
pumps have the Colonial tongue, which
makes a background for the buckle,
now set far back against the instep
so that not a whit of the fashionable
length of toe may be sacrificed. The
Spring pumps, as well as slippers, show
very high curved heels, slender, taper
ing lines and utmost lightness and flex
ibility of sole. Heaviness and sturdi
ness are reserved for certain types of
country club and golfing footwear: the
street boot or pump must be fairyl'lke
In its daintiness.
That most demure and modest of
shades, dove gray, is the whim of fash
Ion this season and in every gathering
these days several gray frocks stand
out with an appealing charm among
the brighter tints now in vogue. But
dove gray footwear is worn with every,
thing and looks well with everything,
too. Another footwear color Is mouse
brown: and sometimes this grayish
mousey brown is combined with the
pale dove gray.
But with the exception of these two
shades of the moment white is beyond
rerad venture ' the footwear choice for
Spring and Summer. The windows of
the fashionable boot shops, where dis
plays of new Spring boots, slippers and
sport shoes are tetmptlngly on view,
have the effect of having been exposed
to a snow flurry overnight, for every
where is snowy white: high white but
toned and laced boots for wear with
sport frocks and afternoon dresses,
white pumps and slippers, white ox
fords buttoned daintily at the side,
white sport shoes of buckskin and can
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vas fancifully strapped and stitched.
The white footwear is very charmins
and for a pair of eight or ten-inch-bigh
white street boots, for wear under one
of the short skirts of the season, one
may pay a correspondingly high price
in two figures.
One must wear a skirt eight or ten
inches from the ground and it is not
considered good taste to show even a
half inch of stocking above the boot;
hence boots must be high. Some of the
extreme models have ten-inch tops with
1 buttons to' be fastened on each boot
before one finishes dressing.
Women who dress in the best taste
prefer beautifully made but rather plain
boots, all of one material, or with a
vamp of contrasting kid: but for those
who fancy conspicuous footwear there
are models that have an almost theatri
DAINTY SEWING BASKET
MATCHES FURNISHINGS
Elaborate Receptacle Keeps Mending and Stitching for War Sufferers at
Hand for Leisure Moments, Fitting in Well in Boudoir.'
THE busy little house-mother who
fills In "leisure" hours with darn
ing and mending for husband and
little people, would regard a very elab
orate workbasket with amused con
tempt. A workbasket, forsooth, made
of pink silk, lined with paler pink silk
and trimmed with yards of expensive
gold lace and little flowers of French
extraction!
What work of family mending, won
ders the busy little house-mother, will
ever be kept in this extraordinary
workbasket? For my lady's boudoir it
Is. of course, and its rose tints and
gold lace match the boudoir furnish
ings. Now, that everybody is sewing for
the Belgians or war babies, one must
do one's daily stint of stitching; and
sewing materials must be kept in a
cal prettiness; vamps running up In
sharp points over tne instep and deep i
cuffs at the top of the boot ornamented
with arabesques of contrasting leather
and slashes down the side laced with
silk cord. A good-looking boot for
wear with street tailleurs has a toe of
patent leather, with curved heel also
black, and a high-buttoned top of
polka-dotted black cloth. the polka
dots white and the boot buttons white
also. Military boots of white kid have
ankle straps of the kid stitched around
the buttoned top midway of the height
and a very smart new model of white
kid with white-covered French heel has
a novel button device, alternate tabs
to right and left of the front being
provided with large, fiat white pearl
buttons.
There is no sign of aforetime clumsi-
receptacle that will not make an in
harmonious note In one's sitting-room.
One of these pretty baskets will make
a dainty gift for the Spring bride.
J Mllady'a Sewing Basket. ' I
t i
ness in the new white canvas oxford
for Summer wear with simple dresses
of lawn and linen. Very dainty and
slender of line are these attractive foot
coverings, some With buttons far around
at the outer side and others with an
arrangement of openwork straps, also
buttoned, that show the stocking over
the instep. Curved and straight Cu
ban heels covered with canvas make
these oxfords less formal than the
French-heeled boot or slipper A fash
ionable New York bootmaker has
brought out a new patent leather ox
ford, which is distinctly mannish, with
Its long pointed toe. broad, low heel
perforated strapping. This smart
shoe will be worn with sport suits of
the mannish tailored type and is dis
tinctly in the exclusive class.
"White for little feet this Summer,
and how pretty are the new buttonec
boots, oxfords and . strap slippers for
the youngsters! Mothers seem to prefer
the buttoned type of boot, since once
on, it is safely fastened, while the lacfed
boot is always coming untied, with
danger of tripping small feet in peril
ous places. The buttoned play boot is
of tan calf, the dress boot of white
buckskin or kid. White stockings
will be worn with these boots through
the Spring, but socks are always cool
est, prettiest and most convenient for
midsummer wear. Outing oxfords for
FLOWER TOQUES HINT '
OF SUMMER'S APPROC AH
Turbans Covered Entirely With Leaves Are Another Feature of Spring
Headgear Some Hats Especially Built for Graceful Apron Veil.
FLOWER toques are everywhere
these early weeks of Spring. The
flower toque Is a perennial arrival
foretelling millinery appropriate for
balmy days; but this yeaij the little hat
made, of flowers seems to bo enjoying
special favor. One finds it in every
milliner's window and each model
seems prettier and daintier than the
last. Not only the bluish Knglish vio
let is used for these toques, but also
the reddish violet of France, a shade
that matches the plum-colored cos
tumes so fashionable these days. In the
reddish violet tone also are big. soft
petaled velvet pansies with pale yel
low and black hearts. These are used
to cover the crowns of turbans and
small hats having brims of bluni-col-pred
straw or silk.
Turbans covered entirely with leaves
are another feature oCthe Spring sea
son. Sometimes the leaves are green,
sometimes plum colored, sometimes
grayish green or even a metallic
bronze. They are arranged closely
over the crown, the edges overlapping
and the whole hat fits closely over hair
and head. - Nothing prettier than these
tiny leaf turbans has been seen in mil
linery for years.
There Is- no betwixt and between in
millinery . this Spring. Either the new
headgear is impressively high, tower
ing above Its wearer's head like the
bonnet of a drum , major, or it is
crifshed down on the top of her head
with scarcely any trimming to suggest
an effect of height.
Very like the tall drum major hat In
deed is the straight, high-crowned tur
ban of straw with a stiff bunch of
flowers -set at the "front.- These rather
rigid hats have the favor of Paris Just
now and there is no denying their trig
smartness, especially when accompa
nied by a trim, closely drawn face veil.
Every Paris hat is, veiled these days
and the Spring -hat will lose half Its
effectiveness if the proper veil does not
add the final note of distinction intend
ed by its creator.
Some hats seem especially built for
the graceful apron veil, which is quite
short at the back, but falls almost to
the waist in front. An airy frill of the
net flutters from the edge, all around.'
SPORTS SUIT IS PROPER
ALLtDAY SUMMER GARB
Costume Sturdy, but Permits Dainty Touches Silk Jersey Favored
Material Leather Trimmings Popular.
IT was a happy day ior lemininny
when fashion prescribed sports
clothes as the proper all-day rai
ment during the Summer time. So com
fortable they are. so cool, so ready-for-
anything that may come up in the way
of outdoor fun and so spic-and-span in
aspect. The Summer girl lives in her
short sport skirt and blouse with shady
hat and fetching, bright-colored sport
coat, from early morn till eve and
sometimes all through the evening, too.
except on special nights when a dance
frock is in order, and if anything comes
up in the way of golf, tennis, a motor
spin, a tramp through the woods or a
skim over the bay insall or motorboat.
she is. ready for it without having to
change from frills and furbelows Into
something sturdy.
And the sports costume Is sturdy
even when it is daintily pretty ana
charming. This year a good deal of
silk-wove-n stuff goes into it. Silk jer
sey is the favored sports material and
the Summer- girl this season will have
not only 'a stunning silk sweater in her
favorite color, but also a silk jersey
skirt to match and perhaps a silk Jer
sey 'sports hat, too.
Paris advocates leather on faummer
sport costumes the soft, supple glazed
kid which comes in rich colorings; and
many of the new separate skirts and
coats have strappings and trimmings
of this glazed kid with 'snappy accom
paniment of buttons.
For the tennis girl who will wear It
with white pique or linen skirts is a
French Boot Goes to Great
Length in Fantastic Style.
LarrK In Front, Battonfl on Side,
Flaps, Taba and Stays Are Com
bined In ew Fad.
THE French boot goes to great
lengths In fantastic style. The
only length noticeable In the Ameri
can boot Is the length of toe. Long,
slender, pointed toes are the fashion
and the short-vamp shoe has entirely
disappeared from the fashionable hori
zon. '
Despite its length of toe. however,
the Spring walking boot does not look
long; in fact, it makes the foot charm
ingly small and dainty. This "is be
cause of the soft, beautiful kid used
and the exquisite cut, every detail of
the flexible boot conforming to -the
contour of the foot.. Paris has brought
out what Paris considers an excessively
chic boot of unique style. ITp the front
goes laces and down the side go but
tons, the buttons attaching themselves
to flaps, or tabs, that reach back from
the front stay.
This" hybrid arrangement does not
commend itself to the woman who pre
fers her street boot either laced or
buttoned and chooses to have it but
toned if her taste is very fastidious, for
the buttoned boot Is pronounced the
correct model for formal wear by best
authorities. These smart boots give
such an air of finished distinction to
a tailored costume that many women
who habitually lay aside high foot
wear with the first Spring days for
pumps, are investing this year in new
Spring boots "for wear all through April
and May. The Spring boot is light and
cool because it is made of such soft
leather and has a thin, turned sole.
Its -heel is 'rather high and its- but
toned top is aiso high sufficiently
high to disappear beneath the hem of
the short tailored skirt-
children are of white buckskin or can
vas in blucher style, with extension
rubber soles.
Laced sport shoes for golf, tennis
and general wear are both high or low,
but the high ones have the favor of
women who dress smartly. Sport boots
have low, broad heels, though models
designed especially for tennis and
yatchting are often heeelless and rub
ber soled, as these sports demand. "But
most women find that the slight lift of
the low heel is a great relief to the
foot and also a protection to the arch
of the instep. Both canvas and buck
skin sport shoes are worn and there are
good-looking models of chocolate-colored
calf for wear with wool sprt
skirts.
In sport oxfords for men both tan
and white are shown, but white has the
favor. For town wear the high tan
shoe has smarter style than the oxford,
though many men cling to the lower
shoe because of its extra coolness in
warm weather. Dress boots in button
style are of black gunmetal calf with
tops of gray cloth and there is a new
all black glazed kid laced boot with
invisible eyelets that is having a vogue
among smarMy dressed young chaps.
"With evening dress the correct boot
is of patent leather with a perfectly
fitting buttoned top of twilled black
cloth.
Then there is tho convenient 5 o'clock
tea veil which falls just to the mouth
in front and then slopes downward
gracefully into long points which float
about the shoulders. The little petti
coat veil, coquettish as veil could be,
is a mere flounce of veiling, prettii
bordered, which falls from the hat
brim, casting a shadow over the eyes
but not pretending to hidethe dimples
around an alluring mouth. The mask
veil, of fine hexagonal mesh, with a
hand-run pattern of sprawling design,
takes its name from the masks 'worn
by soldiers as protection from insects,
and swathes head and chin. Its .lower
edge disappearing under the tall collar
or neck ruche. With large hats float
ing veils are liked best and one of the
prettiest of these is the bacchante veil
with a delicately wrought grape and
leaf design on fine mesh.
If th tall drum major hat is impres
sive and cnic, the tiny, low-crowned
Tiat is the very spirit of coquetry. These
little hats suggest the Second Empire
period and some of them are almost
exact replicas of models worn by the
Empress Eugenie at the height of her
reign of beauty and fashion. A band
of ribbon, a bow. a tiny flower or
buckle that is quite enough trimming
f6r the Eugenie hat, .which must be
worn above a pretty and youthful face
to express its full alllurement.
. Moost of the Spring hats are a com
bination of straw and silk; a few all
straw shapes are shown, but these are
not nearly as graceful and pleasing as
the straw and silk combinations. And
one notes how many colored hats there
are. too. Mack and white millinery
will not have its usual vogue this
Spring, it appears, for the colors of the
new hats are so charming -no one will
be able to resist them. Veils come in
matching colors and the favored shades
are dahlia, petunia. French blue, tap
estry green, gray and a new tan called
in Paris "burnt bread."
Some of the hats for sport and travel
wear are made of pastel tinted felt in
shades of fawn, gray, rose and blue.
The alpine shape seems a favorite in
these, a broad, flat band of black rib
bon almost covering the sloping alpine
crown. There are felt sport sailors,
too, some having straw cleverly com
bined with the felt.
sports coat of very lustrous wool and
artificial silk weave with a texture like
ribbed plush. This coat comes almost
to the knees and has draped sleeves,
soft draped pockets and two strap belts
across the front. For the tennis girl
also is a sports coat of silk jersey in
bold black and white block checks,
with collar, pocket motifs, trimming
band and sash in white silk Jersey.
This is the heyday of the smart sep
arate skirt a sports skirt, it is called
these days; and it may be gored, circu
lar or pleated. Pockets it must have,
and set obliquely at the hip. or in
patch-pocket style at the front, they
have a very jaunty, swagger effect, es
pecially when the sports girl thrusts
her hands within them In imitation of
her big brother. The sports fkirt may
be of tweed, of serge, of wool plaid, of
shepherd checked worsted, of linen, of
pique or even of silk: but whatever Its
material, it flares smartly und is short
enough to show the buttoned walking
boot or the low-heeled sports shoe in
its entirety. Skirts of wool materia;
are faced at the hem with a light, res
ilient material not affected by damp
ness or even an occasional drenching,
to give the proper flaring line.
The sports skirt of silk or wool Jer-
RETAIL MKRCHAXT"' fOMMIT
TEK IJIRECTS WUIXti
' STYLES EXHIBIT.
Z. Svrett, Manager Portland' Em
porium, Chairman of Committee.
The plan for the Spring Styles
Exhibit wae launched by the Re
tail Merchants' Bureau of the
Chamber of Commerce in the lat
ter part of February, when J. C.
Knglish. chairman of the bureau,
appointed a general committee to
work out a plan and to obtain
the co-operation of the" various
merchants of the city in the
movement.
The general direction of the
mpvement has been entirely in
the hands of this committee,
which consisted of the following
representatives from leading re
tail houses of the city: V,. Swett.
chairman: T. J.,. Adams. Will I.ip
man. Aaron Frank, 1. A. Mc
Mullen. Will Roberts, 15. N. Bots
ford, II. A. Pollpck. 1U. L. Baum
and O. A. Dinemoor.
4
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k ' -WW CORSETS'
: ysyBuy the Corset
WW (i That Gives You the
u 11 vjreafesf Corset Value
Ask yourself these questions (a
sMS??' v 1 before you buy any corset. f
Illptjr ' How smart is the style ? l
'XwriV III llTv How good are the materials ?
Vffl III J How well is it constructed?
Ifi&il H II III I How comfortable is it ? $
""jirek' 111 I 111 3 How much service will it give? jl
'':-''-Vyr'&J ill II Then consider the price. I,
Sfift 111 111 When those five questions (
' W ill 111 ture answered regarding a I
Ml 11 111 a 'a Sp'rite corset, the I
111 ill Pnce comes always as a dis- j j
j jjgj! Ill I tinct surprise.
r I sS? Ill J' And it is this test that has 1
U I - II lU given the CB the reputation Ijj
V tT 111 I In - in the trade of being "the I
11 111 greatest corset value for the ft!
!W&Aill i 1 iL- Look over the smart new E
j Ak flT i season's C'B models at any -j!
ffPl -'M L "J K&X corset counter today
Wi r I
C.f iT Panama-Pacific Exposition
!pman Voffe & (3d.
C-Mercliandiso of J Merit Only?
Exclusive Port and A gents
sey does not flare, but falls in soft
folds. Particularly smart are pleated
sports skirts made of striped serge.
The stripes determine the width of the
pleats and ' usually the stripes are an
inch and a half wide. Skirts of this
style show dark stripes pleated out
side, the flare of the skirt revealing
the inner white stripes and the stitch
ing of the stripes down to the hip
makes the upper part of the skirt a
solid color. Sometimes the white stripes
come outside and thin, effect is also
excellent.
If the sports skirt and coat are boy
ish and simple in style the sports hat
and blouse make up for it by being ex
tra dainty and feminine. There are
DYE SCARCITY BRINGS
WHITE INTO POPULARITY
Advanced Prices o Fast-Color Wash Fabrics Cause Change in Summer
Garb for Children Gray Coloring Combined in Apparel.
BECAUSE of the scarcity of fast
color dyes and the consequent ad
vanced prices of fast-color wash
fabrics, many mothers will keep their
children entirely in white this Summer.
Of course white play frocks mean sub
stantial bills from the laundries, but
of two evils it is wisdom to choose the
lesser, and it will be wiser, most moth
ers will find, to pay a bit more on the
laundry account than to cling to col
ored fabrics that will very possibly fade
badly, or. worse still, "run" when sub
mitted to the test of soap and water.
The higher priced ginghams and plain
colored chambrays may be relied upon
for fast colors; but when the cost of
these materials is considered and bal
anced against -the -laundry expenditure
it will be found that white frocks are
quite as economical as colored ones
and will continue to be 'while the pres
ent condition exists with regard to dye
stuffs.
There is nothing like serge, that
standbv of English and American moth
ers, for school wear.' Any navy blue
serge continues.. to be the favorite for
practical school dresses, though many
smart little costumes this Spring are
being made of gray serge for gray is
fashion's pet color just now. Skirts are
pleated or cut in gores with fullness
added by box pleats or inverted pleats
here and there, and except in the mid
dy models, dear to the heart of young
girlhood! waists are mounted over
gulmpes of washable fabric, like pique,
handkerchief linen or batiste. Much
style is given to the little frocks by
braid bindings, lacings of silk cord
through embroidered eyelets and by
original cut of th. waist, showing the
guiinpe in a deep oval or square at the
front.
A pretty way of introducing white In
a childish school frock is shown in the
model of gray and white striped ging
ham which has a novel laced Jacket of
white pique, cut sharply away above
the waistline in front and sloping down
to a squared-off edge at the back of the
hips. The jacket has a round, turnover
collar and white pique cuffs are basted
in the sleeves so that they may be re
moved for laundering with the pique
jacket.
The idea can be carried out most at
tractively In connection with a frock of
dnrlt s-r--sc or mohair: one extremely
s narl little model along these lines Is
of hunter's green worsted, and mohair
'CORS-&TS-
for These Famous Corsets
sports hats of shirred" mousseline and
Georgette crepe trimmed with tiny,
conventional posies, hats of Italian
basket straw and Georgette crepe com
bined; and other simple sports hats of
Panama, milan and felt with tailored,
pleatings and bows of ribbon.
Everything sheer and lovely except
lace goes into the sports blouse. It is
of handkerchief linen, of embroiderer
batiste, of flesh-tinted Georgette crepe,
of striped pussy willow silk, of tine
silk jersey material. It is tucked and
hemstitched, smocked and embroidered,
and always it has long sleeves except
the purely practical tennis model,
which has sleeves slashed off above the
elbow like a man's tennis shirt.
mixture a lustrous, flexible material
ideal for children's dresses with a.
laced jacket of tan-colored faille class
ique silk, the laces dark green to match,
the costume.
There is something about fresh,
crisply new shepherd checkl material
that makes it most satisfactory for
children's wear in springtime. Coats and
little suits of shepherd checked wor
sted have white pipings and whita
pearl or bone buttons and color is . in
troduced into the costume by a charm
ing hat; and by a gay silk coat lining
to match the hat. Pussy willow silk in
a brilliant coral shade is a favorite lin
ing for smart little coats: bright gera
nium red is another popular color; rese
da, tan and Nattier blue have favor
also.
Party dresses and afternoon frocks
of airy lingerie material for the little
girl imitate the grown-up silhouette in
bouffancy. Sheer frocks are worn over
one or two petticoats made to stand out
by ruffles starched lightly before the
ironing: but reel stiffening is intro
duced in little coats by facings of a
new resilient material that has a flexi
ble, elastic quality combined with ex
treme lightness. Party frocks of silk;
are distended by many cordinsrs run
close together. A pretty notion is to
set six or eight of these cordings just
above the hem and two cordings at the
waistline, these upper cords drawing
In the full skirt to- a trim fit around,
the waist in lieu of sash or belt.
Georgette crepe and pussy willow
taffeta in pastel shades are combined,
in dressy little frocks and the same ef
fects are achieved with plain and flow
ered cotton voile in wash frocks.
Socks and strap slippers will be worn
by girls and boys under 11 years old.
but in the street long stockings and.
buttoned boots, either black, white or
tan color, look best with Spring coats.
New Petticoats fcliannliiK.
A charming petticoat for the dancinpr
frocks is of pink pussy-willow taffeta
with a deep flounce in which are set
many hands of white net embroidered
with tiny black four-leaf clovers. A
pink Jersey silk petticoat has three full
flounces of cream oriental lace, each
flounce spread at the edge by a. strir
of featherbone run underneath. Three
roses with attending leaves decorate
the three flounces at their headings
uli on the leit side of the petticoat.