TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 2?, 191G.
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MwB HflHunP 1 UEy BY Wine uniim s
Government to Use
New Machine That
Will Print Currency
in Continuous Strip.
BY RENE BACHE.
WASHINGTON'. D. C Feb. 26.
Money by the mile. Think of it!
Just imagine what It would
be like to have a mile of paper dollar!
to spend. That many ought to last
even the most extravagant person
quite a while.
facie Sam is setting ready to print
his paper money in that wayr that is
to say, in continuous strips a mile Ions.
Such a strip will be exactly 7 inches
wide, its breath being- equal to the
length of a dollar bill. Which means,
of course, that the notes or certificates
will be printed crosswise on the paper
ribbon.
Each not Is 3'4 inches wide; so
that, as a Simple calculation will show,
a mile of dollar bills would represent
$20,275 a fairly comfortable little for
tune for the average hard-working;
man. A mile of (100 notes would make
one more than twice a millionaire, '
Until very recently all of our paper
money has been printed on hand
presses. It is an old-fashioned method,
and unnecessarily expensive. But the
influence of organized labor in Con-,,
press has prevented the substitution of
automatic machinery for doing the
work. ,
It was only a short time ago that
Congress was at length persuaded to
authorize the use of machinery for
printing the backs of the notes and
certificates. The faces are still printed
by hand, on old-style presses.
The bureau of engraving, which is
the Government's paper money mill, is
anxious to do away with this wasteful
system, and, in expectation of favor
able action by Congress, Is getting
ready to revolutionize thlpgsj entirely
by the employment of new machines
for printing both faces and backs with
out Intervention by human band. Some
of the machines, which will turn out
the dollars in continuous ribbons, are
already built, and space for 36 of them
enough to print all the paper "cash
required by the Government has been
set aside in the bureau's new build
ing1 at Washington. , .
The director of the bureau, Joseph
E. Ralph, asserts that by this mechani
cal method, putting the dollars through
by the mile, the paper money can be
much better, as well a more cheaply,
printed than by expert hand labor.
The cost of printing the money by
this new mile-strip method will be less
than half what It is today. A roll of
paper a mile long will be put into an
aluminum box that opens in halves to
receive it Then the box will be locked.
When the machine is operated, the
paper will come out through a slit in
the top of the box, in a strip exactly
as wide as a dollar is long, and, carried
along by rollers, will pass, over a steel
cylinder on which the design of the
face of a note is engraved. Further
along, it will pass over another
cylinder that is engraved with the
design for the back.
By this simple process the ribbon of
paper wiil be converted into a con
tinuous strip of Unci Sam's printed
promises to pay, arranged side by side.
As it passes through the machine, the
ink will be dried by steam pipes; an
automatic attachment will number the
notes or certificates consecutively, and,
incidentally, they will be counted.
As recently announced la the news
dispatches, the Government money mill
has succeeded in obtaining from Ger
many a cargo of pigment materials
enough to print the paper currency
and postage stamps for a whole year.
vQk 7sy?: I i V1 7 - fill -wrV-Y-" - r i
i ' V " - W2iWlll Ami' &J i i;J -r-r "
I hi Ufr t . -y4W' y0sr- . c W
, . g 4crN""- V-
"IpSlvffik - 1 1i lilt' F A J 1
II' . -X .v l . II lammmmmmmmMmmmmmmmBBxmmmnmmaammnmiii 111 1 usinn 1
Jei tin y OV 0 7Yz IVi 'th P?m s-n i& br
grease, but the above-mentioned in
vention raised its market value sud
denly from almost nothing to 500 a
ton.
Carbolic acid (a coal tar product so
useful as an antiseptic and disinfect
ant) yields a valuable series of colors,
Recently, for th stamps, the bureau of In former days red lake was obtained
entravlna- has been obliged to use from the madder plant; and carmine
American pigments, whioh were found was derived from cochineal insects to pigment and paper,
very Inferior for the purpose, lacking (found on certain tropical cacuj. tu,-
the brightness of the imported product. 000 of which were required to make a
Back of this statement is quite an pound. Those bugs., by the way. na-
interesting story, which has to da with tive of Mexico, were largely cultivated
the reason why German color stuffs a while ago in the V est Indies, the
are so superior to our own. Much has Canary Islands, and Algeria. But at
been said in print on the subjoct. but the present time both red lake and
nobody has explained that the prin- carmine are produced from coal tar.
cipal cause of our failure to produce The blue pigment used by the Gov-
qually good coloring materials is that ernment money mill la Prussian blue
the patents taken out by German con- (prussiate of potash), and, like the
cerns In the United States stand in the carmine and red lake, is imported from
way. Soma of the older German pat- Germany. Green is obtained by mix-
ents have run out, and the processes ing this same prussiate of potash with
they covered are the ones now being yellow chromate of lead. The black ia
used experimentally by manufacturers a composite, its chief ingredient being
in this country. . " "vine black," made In Germany by car-
Fpr the printing 6f our paper money, bonizing the "pomace" (residue) from
as well as postage stamps, the colors wlno presses.
chiefly employed are red lake, carmine. All these coloring materials reach
blue, green, and black. The reds are the Bureau of Engraving in the form
used for seals and the backs of bonds, of dry powders, packed in barrels.
Green is for the backs of -greenbacks." They are converted into printing inks
Black la for the faces of notes. The by mixing them with linseed oil" and
main use of blue is to give, intensity grinding the compound to a homo-
to the black. " geneous fluid between steel rollers.
The oil, before being used for this pur- factured is rejected and returned to the
pose, is heated to a high temperature contractor who furnished ltv
In huge Iron pots and then set on fire. For each of the 300 and odd grades
It is allowed to burn from 20 minutes and tints a standard sample is kept in
to threa hours, according to the kind stock, to afford means of comparison.
of Ink that- is to be made the object The "gold tint" used for the faces of from gorgeous yellow to reds, oranges
of this performance being to render It gold certificates, by the way, is chroma and browns. But the great discovery
thick and sticky, so that it may cling yellow a mixture of lead chromate in this line was "aniline," which. In
Ink thus made and red lake. For the gold figures on 1856, was accidentally obtainea irom
will not blur. these securities chrome yellow is like- coal tar by a German chemist w-no
The money mill maintains the larg- wise employed. was trying to get an artificial quinine
est plant In the United States for tha For the pigments required for our out of that fruitful material.
During the last year that establish
ment consumed (of the manufactured
inks), 1,300,000 pounds of the mixture
of Prussian blue and l-ad chromnto
called "chrome gree-n" (mainly for tho
green backs of notes); 600.000 pounds
of "note black." for the faces of note;
100.000 pounds of "power-press black";
50,000 'pounds of "Internal revenue
green"; 250,000 pounds of "poHtnKe 1
cent green." and 200,000 pounds of
"postage 3-cent red."
As above mentioned, all of the paper
money is now printed on Fheets exact-
of the very bent
lengthwise IhrouKh
manufacture of printing Inks, more monev-Drintinir we deDend uoon the The first aniline color produced was ly big enough to make lour notes rai n.
than 300 different grades and tints of Germans because it was they who first mauve. Aniline red. one of the most The paper is mado by a private c-on-which
are employed for printing cur- worked out the problem of getting col- brilliant hues known to the dyer, fol- cern at Pittstleld. Mass.. under rigid
renrv nnatitt nbtmnii. inH internal . tar Th itir hv. tnn.-arf In l5S. Then in Quick succes- supervision by agents of the 1 rcaaury
revenue itimni. Etamns. of course, ira indiirt and fnrmnrlv a waute. nrodupt. lion rum a greens, violets, and yellows Department. It in
i . i - j .v. .. - u . i . .. , i.. i i u tint, nf ih, rifnhflW. linnn ra STM. and
VL 4i VVIUIB, KUU IUO I C UUCfl HIV Q I g&S WOma H 1X11 AVCCUlU5tjr will- tXkl Ills " ...w . - - .
much mor varied, anaeial ones helna nl.r anhstnncn. admirably adantnd aa Tk. n.rmnna an fast as they in- each sheet run two bands of scattered
used for playing cards, cigarettes, etc a base for chemical manipulation. vented these processes, patented them fibers of red and blue silk a d.-vlco
The "postage 2-cent red" is an aniline In igjo "naphthaline" (the stuff In their own and every other country, the Imitation of which Is a most norl-
(coal tar) pigment, guaranteed not to m0th balls are made of) was separated including the United States. Many of ous difficulty to the counterfeiter
fade under any circumstances. out from coal tar; and, later on. the the older patents, as already stated. Ninety millions of theKe sheets et
All tho Inks used, indeed, are under- most beautiful colors wore derived have run out, but the newest and used last year for the printing
stood to ba fade-proof. "Whenever a from It. ranging from buttercup yel- most valuable ones are still in force, money, and the total lolJ"l 01 nr
fresh batch la made, a print is made iow to reds, greens, and scarlets. and American color makers do not currency turned out during trie xw
with Jt on a paper strip, and the latter Then came "anthracene," from which, dare Infringe them. Hence their in- month by the .7'1"" r, v" nil
Is exposed to powerful ultra-violet in 1858. two German chemists obtained ability to produce pigments that vie was about Il.SOO.ooo.ouu. evn o
rays In an electric cabinet. Part of the the beautiful pigment called "Turkey with the German in brilliancy and per- lion postage stamps were pnntea au -
strip Is covered, to protect it against red" (previously derived from the manence the later being, of course, a ing the same lrloi. the numner
the rays; and if after several hours the madder plant), thereby revolutionizing very important requisite. these required by the peopio 1
covered portion and the exposed por- the dyeing and calico-printing Indus- It takes a lot of pigment powders to United States being approximately .-
tion aro found not to match, the pig- tries. Discovered In 1832, anthacene meet the requirements of the Govern- 000,000 for every day. tnciumng
ment from which the ink was manu- was -long employed only tor wheel- ment money mill for a twelvemonth, days.
TOURING AMONG
THE. STYLE
SHOPS
STERLING HEfLIG WATCHES FPSr
sSP&ING HATS BLOSSOM IN. PARIS.
I
BT STERLING HEILIG.
WENT with a lady to a famous
Paris milliner's.
"Please don't hurry me." she aatd
outside.
I didn't.
Immediately on entering, we passed
the inspection of a stylish blonde
cashier, whose desk leaves Just room
for it. in a narrow passage flooded with
electric light, before you reach, the
"parlor"; but the latter are discreetly,
softly lighted some with filtered day
light, even against white-lacquered
panels and pale-green sik hangings.
It gives a sense of peace.
"She looked me in the eyes!" the lady
said; but, in reality, she didn't. Who
can know what's in that blonde head,
wise with the wisdom of all women
and a lot of men, too? How does she do
it? The deferential welcome never
changes. Who can read its modula
tions? Yet I have known shabby ladies
from Seattle, passing to the parlors, to
find the whole shop at their disposal,
while smart women, with the "man
ner," in adjoining salesrooms, eat and
viewed today's styles, their hearts rag
ing never seeing the styles of tomor
row! ,
"Morning hats? Traveling hats? Af
ternoon hats?"
"Yes," the lady answered. . (It is a
good old American standby, to pretend
not to understand completely).
We were in one of those small rooms
you've heard about, a dozen in a suite,
all emptying Into each other, yet sep
arate. They bring the hats from Blue
beard's Chamber.
"Traveling hat," the salesgirl mur
mured, "Angora . straw, silver-gray,
lined with dark blue satin, very effect
ive for traveling."
Did you ever see a fluffy, woolly
straw? The thing looked whooping on
the lady: but she sighed and passed it.
She looked whooping in a round hat,
kind of sailor, crow-blue taffetas, lined
with blue straw, ribbon-trimmed and
bouquet of flowers; but she sighed and
passed it. They brought a black taf
feta sailor, half-lined with turquoise-
a r 1 .1.,-ni.i.. in- M X- e
Mvenf'n ?J-fet. S?y2e- 87a,
Slack Chaniz'Ihr lace,
7rzhnmec rveh V-aiiisr
&Ztze7?z'blxoTi aiicTTZizer-
Got that? Beaded roses, petals Just
outlined with tiny beads. Put down, a sailor-forms."
growing craze, smart hats for sports.
Golf hats with little jackets to match.
Excuse us Just a minute, Mary!" (bzzz!
bzzz!) "Bamboo faced with silk. I told
them, it's manllla! (bzzz! bzzz!. Says
Zrlue. Taffeta. Z,zri
and youthful dressy toque, made of Du
barry pink straw and with wreath of
shaded small pink rosea and some green
leaves "
"Are these the colors?" asked the
lady.
"Many grays, pigeon-gray, a darker
gray called "mitraille," also dark green,
black with turquoise, black with tilleul
(weak tea), black with silver-gray in
The lady said she meant the toques.
"The toques of horse-hair straw, all
mixed with lace or tulle, giving fluffy
effects," replied the patient creature.
"Many horse-hair large hats, also which
he bought 250! (bzzz! bzzz!) Has no look lacey and transparent."
confidence in the small high shapes." I could almost hear the lady's brain
(bzzz! bzzz!) "The Angora has been work.
blocked, I tell you!" "I know. Keep . "Friends of mine," she said, "wear
it dark, I have bought 40! Just the early Victorian and Empress Eugenie
thing for traveling!" periods."
My companion motioned me to si- The slender brunette gin wun purpie
blue taffeta; and a nice, black, manllla lence. npitiKeo w we uui".
sailor bat lined with light gray taffeta "I am listening!" she murmured; but with an 1830 hat of "starred straw, or
trimmed with erav taffeta ribbon, the conversation died out in the dis- "straw horse-hair
"Not these. Toques." explained the tance, as a premiere led the important
lady. "Afternoon hats." buyers to some show-room. We heard:
The two salesgirls started off. "Large, flat, graceful hats for large,
In the next room, a party of Ameri- .flat, graceful women..." Silence,
cans had entered. Evidently they were My companion grabbed the hat.
buyers for some big firms. Going on "It's this Angora." ahe said, as the
the good old American principle that good girla came back with five nice
nnhnriv in Paris understands our lan- toques. .
"PJlce. aressy anernoon tuque, saia
brown eyes, "made in draped lace
horsehair straw, and trimmed with a
small flower. This other, very elegant
Their
guage, they were talking shop.
words came vaguely to us.
"Leather and kid roses, never seen
before, two shades of thd same color.
lace" of the new
color. Rose Dubarry, very dark rose,
trimmed with flowers and Nattier blue
ribbon. "Framing the face nicely," she
said. "All sewed by hand. Not blocked."
"I know." the lady said, "I know."
Brown-eyes came up.
'This 1870 hat is very newest," she
affirmed with gladness. "An evening
hat. habille, and now coming for the
Victory! Black taffetas covered with
black Chantilly lace, trimmed with.
Nattier blue ribbon and Nattier blue
tffriJfjFoses, Green Leaves
roses. Tho length of the veil covers
just the eyes."
I eould almost feel the lady's nerve
train.
She reached out and picked up the
Angora straw for traveling, sweet sliver-gray
'woolly" straw, lined with
dark blue satin.
"Very smart," the lady said, "but why
has it been blocked already? Next
week it jvlll be for sale upon the coun
ters of the Galeries."
"It has been blocked?" murmured the
sales girl, politely.
"It has been blocked!" replied the
lady, firmly.
Nothing could show better the march
of Paris millinery during the war. Two
years ago the great straw houses still
originated all the straw forms, which
they dealt out to the milliners in vary.
Ing categories of aristocracy. A middle-class
milliner could not buy, for any
money, the straw forms allotted to some
10 or more "creating" milliners, whose
names are famous. Our American firm,
however, could procure them, because,
buying the trimmed" model they ob
tained from these foremost milliners a
"devis" list of materials and ad
dresses, "with permission." All right
Little by little the great Paris depart
ment stores obtained them also the
exclusive straw forms which is quite
another story! This is said to be the
reason why. In the past two years, the
great milliners have made their own
straw forms.
"We buy straw by the piece of 10
II
..."
JVyJe 7330, oJEry
yards." said the good girl, "and 'cre
ate' each form by sewing it round wires
of esparte-matting. It began with silk
and velvet hats on forms of matting.
Now it's straw, too every hat is a
creation. No more forms bought!"
Yes, but when a straw "creation"
turns out to be very succ-esfi:l, a real
"type," and women clamor for it, they
send out and have it "blocked" by a
great straw house. It is complicated
like all business. The straw house ac
cepts, because it gets a good form.
"They depend upon us milliners for
their best shapes now," while the mil
liners can give out their "devis," as
heretofore, to good American buyers.
"The form is already blocked" it
means two weeks gained, ordering a
dozen. And everybody knows that the
greatest designers have trouble to du
plicate their own creations by hand!
Only for Paris does the combination
JanBle when the blocking strawhouse
prematurely throws an exclusive form
on the popular market!
"Monsieur Gaston." said the sales
girl, "madame says that the Angora
straw has been blocked!"
It was at Lewis'; and the slightly
bald young man, immaculately dressed,
with twinkling eyes, small black mous
tache and smile that won't come off,
was "ilonsieur Gaston," consultins
r V
r v
i.-V-'- ' . 4
master in form and color, nephew and
heir of the whole shop.
"It won't be on the Tarls market,"
he said, reassuring.
The lady did not seem reassured.
"Perhaps not now," she said, "but
when I want to use it In the Summer?"
"No." he answered, "they'll keep that
material for the popular trade next
year. It's too beautiful to be wasted."
Obviously she hesitated.
Monsieur Gaston seemed to have a
momenj to spare.
"Madame." he said, "do not worry.
It is so difficult to copy a hat that the
best milliners' designers, even when
the form is blocked for them to work
on, cannot reproduce their own orig
inals, unless they have thom under
the eye."
She answered cheerily that she could
understand It might be difficult to
drape a toque with horsehair lace, and
supposed that many of the big trans
parent, fluffy forms would never be
blocked, becnune they couldn't; but, all
the same, the quantity of graceiui
straws we see, where It's all 1" the
shape and very little trimming, ought
o be within the reach of lmltatorx.
"Madame," answered the man-milliner,
"the simplest hat is the most dif
ficult to copy. You may have the form,
but not the tint or the exact material.
Where there are few trimmings you'll
observe that they are very novel, beau
tiful, or Just so. If you can't unit"
the very same elements, you fall Into a
new creation. Take the simplest of
all. ribbon trimming. Do you know
that we have women who do nothing
but make ribbon bows? If they suc
ceed 10 a day, we are satisfied! I
could tell you of one who never touches
any other work than shirring."
The lady tried to look pleased.
"For the coming Summer season."
said the master, warming to his ut
Jcct. "there Is Just one great chsnco
for successful copying so great that
It is half the mode! Sailor forms!
We began the season with them, aro
continuing, and shall end with them.
Silk material, more taffetas than satin,
and in ail shades. I'm glad i it. Any
lady can copy a sailor hat. It Is tho
only hat that a lady can copy. It Is
suitable for all ages. Taffetas lined
with straw, straw lined with silk, any
thing! I'm delighted when the Indies
get a chance to copy!"
The ladv took philanthropic Interent.
"Really," he 'd. are you quite
sure?"
Then:
"That little traveling Annora. I nhll
take it. It 1 too sweet. I'll pay for It
now. and wear It. Thank you so much.
Good-bye!"
On the street. I told her I had not
quite caught her drift. When a lailv
goes to Lewis' to buy three dressy hM".
with preference for Karly Victorias
and Empress Kugenles. and comes out
with Just one wholly straw
"Hut Isn't It a duck!" she interrupted
"I have some better than three hats. I
have a system for the Summer. I'm
going In for sailor forms. I'll slick l'
sailor forms. Of course. I ire It now.
It is Inevitable. After all. what tnascs
the Paris hat I mean the Paris hut
that takes? Why. Paris! Paris women
slmplv must wear something linpl
this year, to keep In the i ensure of
good taste, not to ba ostentatious: ami
what Is so simple and good taste. et
varied, as the sailor? When 1 heard
Monsieur Gaston going on, I understood
at a glance. The great milliners have
got to keep sailor forms a-aolng. I've
got five hata. 10 hats! I know where
and how to get them!"
"You have stolen a style! I told her.
"Yes," she laughed, "but he don't car'"
"It's a good year," 1 said, "(or hODest
women,"