THE SUNDAY OREGOmiT, PORTIiAJOJ. NOVEMBER 14. 1915.
raw V v Your Nhn.
Ulf I m ' tWm fJ 7 will Make You Envied by All Women,
i ' Admired by All Men,
LILLIAN RISSKLL ARTICLES
TO BIS DISCONTINUED.
The Oregonlan expects to dis
continue the articles by Lillian
Russell at the end of the present
month. It will be impossible,
therefore, to assure readers that
any inquiries addressed to Miss
Russell and received after this
date will be answered in these
columns.
I Hubi,I1 at the end oC the present I I I ,11 f - I HIT SS
: i wi vx v-s
NECK DRESSING has the power to
bake or mar. beauty, and in these ,
days the choice resta entirely
with each woman individually, for
there is no set rule for either the high,
choking collars, nor the low-cut bod
ices. For several years the prevailing fash
Ion demanded the high, choking collars,
boned so firmly that proper breathing
was impossible and graceful carriage
of the head was unknown. One could
not move right or left without turning
the whole body, which gave a stiffness
to the appearance far from graceful.
The high collars that are in vogue
today are slightly softer in texture
than formerly and therefore less lia
ble to harm the breathing, but they
are no less damaging to the beauty of
the throat. They cause the same lines
to form around the neck, the same
little creases under the ears, and the
tame dark streaks under the chin. No
face gains in beauty of expression by
the wearing of a high collar. The
Rvanlike throat that poets rave about
is lost in a maze of ruching. if it is
rot enlarged in appearance by flaps
f linen or silk.
It is possible for every woman to
lake account of her own attraction
and .study the degree of becoming
Tiess to be found in her neck dressing.
Comfort should be considered, and that
Is always to be found in the wearing
of the open-necked bodice. If a wom
an has a long, thin neck she may wear
a high, turned-over collar of some
soft, white material with good effect,
but if she has a short, full throat she
should avoid wearing anything around
lier throat that destroys its outline. A
fat woman with a full ruching around
her neck looks positively grotesque.
The line of the back of the neck
from the hair line down to the
shoulder should be unbroken. It is
one of the beauty points of a well
formed woman. The chin Ehould never
be pushed cut by the wearing of a
ribbon band around the neck.
Freedom of the throat is a great
charm in a pretty woman. Too often
the throat is neglected and allowed to
"become yellow and lined long before
age has left its marks upen it. In the
care of the complexion the throat
.should have equal attention with the
face. The clearness of the skin should
extend from the forehead to the shoul
der. Tulle and fur boas are only for
Jong-necked women.
There was a time when the wearing
of an open-necked gown was considered
vulgar anywhere but in a ballroom.
Hut today every sort of gown, from
a blouse to a tailored suit, may be
worn open at the throat with impun
Ity. In art. beauty and grace are com
bined in serpentine lines. The most
beautiful woman is she who is pliant
of limb and flexible ot attitude
whose curve and motion are harmonious,
whose rhythmic bust and shoulders
need little drapery, and in their very
nudity are most chastely and practical
ly ciomi. it is oniy me women
whose forms are built up square and
FOlid like a brick house, or those who
look as though they had been cut out
of a block of wood by a turner, who
suggest vulgarity by decollete dress
ing. Covering the body utterly is an arti
ficial dtrcency, originating, of course,
in cold countries, for obvious reasons.
And for the woman whose scrawny
hape forbids what may be called "a
clean breasted avowal of what Nature
f jj f . ', iEll Hill
i VI A X - .- H - H Vs. CTSs''
So long as your throat is beautiful -and that
should be as long as you live keep it
uncovered.
might have more sumptuously adorned-
to cast the malicious eye upon the
charming disclosures of a more fav
ored rival is as feeble as her theories
of decorum are foundationless.
There is no more actual indecency
in lmre throat and shoulders than there
is in unveiled face and naked hand.
So wear your bodice open at the
throat: give freedom to the muscles
and glands and the air that attacks
them.
The wise will applaud you for seek
INTIMATE TALKS ON
FASHIONS FOR GIRLS
mllE new Winter suits which young
-1 0 simple that they will delight in
wearing them. The skirts are made
plainer and the jackets less fanciful
than they were last year, but their
simplicity gives them a smartness that
is very French.
For a suit for general wear, one
would not advise the severe tailor
made, lor school wear, shopping,
walking and traveling, the suit to be
correct should be a plain-tailored model
The best suit colors for the Winter are
navy blue, dark Drown, a clear oars
Italian green and the lighter blues or
the gobelin, "grance," a red (the color
of the French soldiers' trousers),
bordeaux, flag blue and gray.
If you can have two suits the ideal
arrangement is to have a rough woolen
suit for hacking ar.d a semi-taijored
suit for afternoon affairs. For a suit
of this type the Russian blouse or
short ripple blouses are trimmed witn
collar and cuffs of beaver, or the new
fur. nutria, which is so like beaver,
of Persian lamb, or other short-haired
furs. With this suit one would wear
a waist, made partly of the suit ma
terial, combined with satin, taffeta.
faille. gros-de-Loudres or chiffon.
For school suits one uses the rougher
wool materials. The tweeds, mixtures
homespuns, etc., are smartest for these
suits. They can only be worn with the
simplest blouses, a very simple hat.
walking shoes and heavy gloves. A
suit of serge, or gaDardine, checks ot
stripes, with a frilled blouse, a smart
hat, nice shoes and immaculate gloves
can be worn almost anywhere in the
daytime.
There is something very cozy and
lntimate about
Hi,i-iislon of
mother's and kiddies'
the latter's Winter
With an understanding- 01
rhiid nsvchology. which takes account
of the Imitative desire, the designers
of the Winter styles have used for the
children adaptations of many of the
features- of mothers' and elder sisters'
gowns.
Parrt- frocks fo- the tuvenile social
experience are most important matter., intimate as one's lingerie and corsets, hydrogen, one teaspoon of pure borax before she has her growth. It is well best hair-grower that I know of. Di
to the prospective wearer and a de- and the fastidious young woman and and enough rose water to make a pint, however, for her to be careful .f her luted witch-hazel will also Increase the
light to the maker. This season the
empire waist is very popular and there
W tS Tk. t i f r I d I I I 1 I I I 1 1 V I
v 'mil y
ing health in spite of fashion. So lone
as your throat is beautiful and that
should be as long as you live keep it
uncovered. You may not be envied by
all women, but you will be admired by
all men.
(Copyright, 1915. by Lillian Russell.)
are pretty lace-trimmed boleros for
depends the material, for crisp tulle
is especially adapted to a dress with
fullness and gainers, and lace or em
broidery f louncings . or bordered ma
terials for the dress which is to have
a skirt in several straight-edged sec
tions. For practical school dresses there Is
a multiplicity of pretty suspender
styles. The skirts, plaited, gathered
or rippled, are to be worn with sena-
rate biouses, which can be changed as
often as necessary . Thn mirtdv ntvloa
are always popular, but this year they
have a rival in the smock for everyday
dresses. A pleasant variety of skirts
has come, many of them from France.,
and the youthful enthusiast, assisted
by maternal judgment, will find her
heart's desire, either as accordion
plaited model or a graceful ripple skirt
which may be- single or double or a
skirt with two or three straight
edged flounces.
For the various models of coats there
are many suitable materials, some new
and standard favorites. Of course,
upon one s particular climate depends
the choice of materials and styles, as
well, but this season fabric makers
have provided splendid materials for
the variety of climates and for the va
riety of styles. For the coat on Nor
f;k lines, mixtures are good and also
are fancy suitings. The dressy coat
may be one of the models -made with
a yoke or a simple style belted at
the empire or lower waistline.
The coats on the whole have simple
lines. Most of the models may be made
with either the high -or open neck.
Many have convertible collars or they
may have a high stitched collar with
a very military appearance. Braid
trimmings may be used If a continuance
UI me muiutry note is uesii-eu.
Belts are shown in such an amaz-
ing variety of designs that they are
sure to please jivunile fancy. Lingerie
and corsets are not forgotten. There
is nothing that is auite as oersonal and
matron are as careful in choosing them
as they are in selecting their suits and
1 ft i-t V - - .- J
HP
u
.
For day wear the combination
dresse3.
or slip is made with a round or square
neck; for evening with a straight out-
line. The new underwear shows more
fullness below tne hips, and the roost
popular arrangements at present are
the short combination and petticoat or
tne pI.jnces3 sup an(j drawers or knick-
erbockers.
Longcloth is the most serviceable
and you get a daintier effect and bet
ter wear from good longcloth than
from cheap grades of other materials.
It is false economy to buy a cheap
quality, of any material.
Petticoats are particularly important
this year under the new full skirts,
They are made with deep flouices,
either circular, gathered or plaited. The
best silk material is taffeta, for it
stands out splendidly, especially when
it i corded. For Dractical wear, satin-
finished cotton material is excellent.
The new fashions mean a new silhou-
ette. With the wide skirts there is
no longer any necessity for submitting
to the discomfort of the very long cor-
set. With the extremely narrow
Lillian RiisselVs
TT1
B. L. I did not receive your letter
Pj containing a' self-addressed and
stamped envelope. Had I received it.
your letter would have been answered.
If you will send another I will answer
it-
Brown Eyes The formula for which
you ask contains equal parts of am
monia, distilled water-and peroxide of
hydrogen.
Minnie If you will send me a self- complexion brush. Then massage the drops of tincture of benzoin have been
addressed stamped envelope and ask face, using a simple emollient such as added. Be sure to beat ingredients can
ine again the questions I .will answer creme marquise or orange flower skin stantly until quite cold. Beating is
them, as there are too many questions food. For wrinkles across the fore- the secret of fine cream.
to answer in the paper. ,
M. G.i If your ankles are weak never
wear a low shoe or slipper, but always
wear a nign ouxton or lacea oool. i ou
will find that this" will also tend
make the ankles smaller.
A Reader A splendid astringent
for large pores: it is also fine to use
if you are reducing and find that your
face is getting flabby. One ounce of eau
de cologne, one-half ounce of tincture
of benzoin, one ounce of peroxide of
Apply after washing. Caro must be
taken not to get it on the hair or eye-
you have a
anything
outline.
dresses it was imperative that the flesh
of the thigh should be held in. as much
as possible, and the lower edge of the
short corset would have made itself at
once apparent. Now, however, the full
skirts do not touch the figure, the line
of the thigh is hidden and there is no
longer any need for the long corset.
This Autumn the new fashions are
closer-fitting. Coats and bodices curve
Into the figure at the waist line to give
a picturesque contrast to the flare and
flow of the wide skirts. The new lines
are not tight-fitting. They do not con-
fine or compress the figure. They sim
ply fit it more closely, bringing out
its curves and modeling it in a way
that sems wonderfully attractive aft
er the rather shapeless lines of the
past few years.
The new corsets are rather more
firmly boned than they were last year.
The very light boning of last year was
admirable for the slight figure, but did
not give enough support to the woman,
of average proportions. The new hon
ing is very well arranged, leaving tne
hip open and doing away with the old
discomfort of a bone pressing on the
hips.
. Witn the close-fitting coats and bod-
ices the debutante slouch has utterly
disappeared. The bust Is no longer
allowed to drop, as In the brief season
of the topless corset.
Beauty Answers
brows, as it is a bleach as well as an
astringent.
I consider a bristle brush, far supe-
rior to a wire brush to use upon the
hair. If the cream which you are
using upon your face makes it "scaly,"
as you say, you should stop using it
and try another.
- A Fond Reader, Collins, Mo.
Bathe the face every night with warm
water, using pure castile soap and a
head use a rotary movement, smooth
ing the lines crosswise.
M. G. B. I ehould advise you to run
olive on or a good cold cream around
your finger nails , every night. They
need nourishment.
Agnes M-, San Antonio, Texas If
you will walk three or four miles a
aay and drink no liquids with vour
meals you should reduce enough for a
girl of your age. It is very foolish for
a vnimw cHri tn An vai-v m .mH ,nni.
diet, and to take exercise and walks and
not, allow herself to set aa stout that
short, full throat avoid wearing
around it that destroys its
she will be obliged to reduce later.
If you will send me a stamped, self-
addressed envelope, I will send you a
diet anl set of exercises which will be
of benefit to you.
Dorothy For the condition of your
cheeks and complexion I should advise
a good skin food. Your face needs
nourishing.
The plain yellow vaseline will pro
mote the growth of the eyelashes. Put
it on every night, being very careful
not to let it get into your eyes. As to
the dark circles under the eyes, you
should consult your physician, as no
outward application can remove that
condition.
M. K. R. As a tonic for short, scanty
lashes there Is nothing better than yel
low vaseline melted and rubbed gently
along the roots with a tiny camelshair
brush. Use the vaseline at night and
allow it to relieve the soreness grad
ually. Take care that none enters the
eye, as the oil will irritate it. To make
tonic for the brows use one ounce
ot yellow vaseline and eight drops eat,n
Beatrice K., Honey's Point. W. Va.
You will fnd this exercise beneficial:
Double your fists as tightly as you can
md bring them together in front with
the arms raised to the horizontal. 4veep
the arms on a level with your shoulders
and slowly separate the fists as widely
as you can. Eat well and heartily;
sleep as long as possible, and stop
worrying. You will find gentle mas
sage with a skin nutrient round and
upward along the glands also bene-
ficial.
GIaay3Tne orange flower skin
,i ,. ivi.it teethe,- in a
water bath one-half ounce of white
wax, one-half ounce of spermacita, one
ounce of lanolin, two ounces of sweet
almond oil and one ounce of cocoanut
oil. Take off the fire and beat until
cold, adding, little by little, two ounces
of orange flower water to which five
Bab Line the gloves with a prep
aration made of four ounces of rose-
water into which has been stirred a tea-
spoon of powered Borax and live drops
of tincture of benzoin, with enough
finely powdered oatmeal and almond
meal added to .make a paste. In the
morning remove with a cleansing
cream.
Anxiety Use plain melted yellow
vaseline and apply to the roots with
small samelshair brush. This is the
growth of the eyeiasnes.
Mary Your, letter requires a per-
sonal answer. Write again and send a
stamped envelope for the reply which I
will be glad to send you immediately.
W7dou in Business
AN .anybody tell me why some men
take it for granted that marriage
coarsens a woman?"
The little widow with the blonde
hair put this startling question very
seriously, and her eyes, big with trou
ble, looked it even more seriously.
"And why is it that everything is
made so hard for a widow who must
support herself ?" she continued.' "Sure
ly a widow with a child to care for
needs help as much as any girl if not
more. Not every man can leave his
wife an income when he dies. There
are a great many women situated just
I am. But we are supposed to be
able to fight our way alone, and if one
of us ventures to apply for a haven at
any of the homes for working girls or
even at the Y. W. C. A., we are told
that, having been married, we cannot
be admitted.
"Of course I think it is perfectly
right to help the girls who "are strug
gling to make their way. They need
all the help that can be given them
and it is little . enough. But why con
sider that the girl who works lor her
li ing is less able to take care of her
self than the woman who has been
married and sheltered and loved and
who, in taking care of her husband
and household and child has been too
busy to learn much about "the outside
world?
"Such a woman, when she finds it
necessary to go forth alone and earn
a living, is not armored for the fight
even as well as the young girl start
ing out with her parenls' bucking and
a certain chivalry which clears the
way for her.
"Add to this that some men feel it
their privilege to say things to a
woman who has been married which
they would be ashamed to say to a
girl. In their opinion, apparently, a
married woman has no modesty.
"Since I have been out in the world
associating with men in business, I
have found it an almost invariable
rule that the average man will guard
his tongue in the hearing of an un
married girl of almost any age. but
he frequently takes it for granted that
he has a fuller liberty when speaking
to or in the presence o a woman who
has had a husband.
"One would think that a widow
would command a certain respect
that the dignity or her widowhood,
and particularly of h.-r motherhood,
if she has a child, would cause men to
pay her a certain deference. My hus
band was a clean, kindly man. who
thoroughly respected womanhood.
During the eight years or our mar
riage I never heard him say or knew
him to da a thing to coarsen me or any
other woman. There must be many
men like him. And yet I have learned,
to my sorrow, that there are a lot of
other men who think so little of their
own kind that they take it for granted
every married woman has been
stripped of refinement and modesty."
Dream Cakes Recommended
for Chafing Dish Suppers.
Toothnome Dalntien K.nolrr to Make
Tbun Itarebit Sandwiches Are
Browned in JUutter.
K easiest thing in the world to
make in a chafing dish are dream
cakes, and anybody who likes a rare
bit will rave over these toothsome
dainties, which are built of cheese,
cream and slices of bread. They are
less trouble than the ordinary Welsh
rarebit, which required a good many
ingredients and prolonged cooking, and
they are "hearty" enough to make a
sustaining supper after an evening of
bridge Two or at most three, dream
cakes, will be all the average person
can eat unless he is willing to risk
the possible weird dreams which are
said to have given the rich delicacies
their name.
Press half a pound of soft rarebit
cheese througli a potato curleT, or a
colander until you have a pile of light,
flaky cheese particles. Mix with the
cheese half a cup of sweet ream. Sea
son with a pinch of salt, paprika, a
dash of mustard and a teaspoonful of
Worcestershire sauce.. Have ready
6ucea f bread, cut rather thick and
with the crusts trimmed off. Spread
one slice thickly with the cheese,
another slice down upon it, and then
brown the sandwich thus made In a
chafing dish Mazier In which butter
is bubbling. When golden brown and
crisp, serve piping hot on a small plate.
a Do not have the sandwiches too large;
small ones will brown more quickly.
Ordinary slices of bread, trimmed h4.
the edges, may be cut in two diagon
ally to make three-cornered dream
cakes.