NEW FROCK DESIGNS EMPHASIZE
FLAT, GIRLISH LINES AT BACK
.Pointed Coat Bodice of Tulle With Garnet Beads That Hang Straight Down is Feature Appearing in Dance
Model Silver Lace Used for Overskirt and Bertha.
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IN spite of the bouffant drapery, a
designer has managed to give a
pretty new dance frock a flat line
at the ' back, quite an achievement
anyone accustomed to handling fabrics
can understand. The looped-up wing
overdrecs is of white pussy-willow
Fllk and underneath is a petticoat of
white tulle with a border of garnet
beads. An apron of " tulle and garnet
beads mingles with the silk drapery,
weighting It down at trie DacK. unc
feature of the frock is, of course, the
pointed,-coat bodice of tulle and garnet
beads which hang straight down from
the edge of the decolletage.
It was not necessary to add aprons,
capes or sashes to give an exquisitely
simple frock a correct line at the back.
for its wearer possesses the long,
graceful lines of figure and the ad
mirable carriage and poise which need
no help from art.
The frock, a most beautiful example
of 1916 fashion, is of king's blue velvet,
with a bodice of tulle embroidered in
blue and white beads. This transpar
ent bodice Is draped .over flesh-tinted
net. The skirt suggests flower petals,
one overlapping the other, and there
is no belt or girdle to break the line
between bodice and skirt.
Not only is a new gay little danc
ing dress gathered at waist and hip,
, but it has. also a draped, crossed bodice,
and over this is a lace bertha shirred
on cords. Yet the effect at the back
Is girlishly flat, without a suspicion
of the dowdiness that an inexpert
dressmaker probably would achieve
with such a combination of gathers
and shirrings, one over the other.
The frock is built of pale pink faille
classique. and the little pleated frill
outline skirt scallops is an interest
ing detail. Silver lace forms the gath
ered overskirt and bertha. The sur
pliced bodice is of the pink faille
classique.
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
PORTLAND. Oct. Would you kindly
Riv a recipo fr Scotch oat cake? Please
publish it in The Sunday Oregonian, as 1
do not take the daily. MRS.. -K. B. O.
THE difficulty in making Scotch
oat cake lies in the fact that it is
almost impossible to get the
right kind of oatmeal here. Neither
' rolled oats" nor "steel-cut oats" will
do. The real Scotch oatmeal, for bak
ing purposes, is partly floury and
slightly granular. One Scottish friend,
here in Portland, compromises by re
grinding the oatmeal she buys, using,
I believe, a coffee grinder, but I don't
know how successful her cakes are.
Following is an "imported" recipe.
"Knack is essential for success even
with the right kind of meal.
Scotch Oatcake One pound fine
oatmeal, l J , ounces lard or drinnin-
Ja teaspoon baking soda. 1 1; teaspoons
salt. Mix all together with the short
ening melted in enough hot water to
make a dough which can be kneaded,
but which is dry enough to tend to
crumble around the edges. Roll very
thin, ducting the board and rolling
pin with oatmea I to keep from stick
ing. Koll a handful' at a time into
a round cake, about S inches across.
Out each cake in four. Bake on a
griddle, ungreased. The film of oat
meal used in rolling should keep the
cakes from sticking. Bake on one side
until the edges begin to "rl up, then
"toasv the otoer side in front of the
fire." Since open fireplaces for toast
ing are not usual in Portland, you
may use the oven for the crisping, dry
ing out process; but the flavor is not
as i od as when the oatcakes are fin
ished on the open hearth. A teaspoon
ful of sugar may be added, if liked,
but the unsweetened cakes are more
usual in Scotland.
Toin-ho. Wash.. Nov. x Enclosed find
driresseti envelope for the recipe of a white
fruit cake that has citron, candied cherries.
Thanking you in advance. B.
I hope the following will suit you. If
not. please write again
White Fruit Cake One cup butter,
whites of five eggs, two cups flour,
pinch salt, juice and grated rind of one
lemon, one cup shredded citron, one
cup sugar, on-iialf cu milk, two tea
spoonfuls (level baking powder, one
cup seeded raisins. one-half pound
almonds (blanched, dried and chopped!.
jeat the butter to a cream, add the
sugar, beating thorou ;hly. Now. add
the juice and grated rind of the lemon,
and the chopped almonds. Add the
milk and flour alternately, a little at a
time, beatiny briskly, having first
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sifted the flour and baking powder.
Stir in the fruit, and last of all fold in
the well-beaten whites of the eggs
Turn into a round cake pan that has
been lined with oiled paper, and bake
in a moderate oven for two and a half
hours.
se this icing: One and a half ci
sugar, six taoiespoomuis water.
Let this boil two or three minutes,
or until it threads. Pour in stream over
beaten white? of two eggs, beating
vigorously.
Portland. Or.. Nov. r.. Will you please
srive. throuph the column of The Sunday
Oregonian, a r-ipe for mincemeai? Thank
ing you in advance. MRS. H.
Kindly let me know the type of
mincemeat you had in mind with or
without meat, rich or inexpensive, with
or without molasses. Lo you care for
any green tomato mincemeat recipes
or similar "near-mincemeats?" "
Weiser. Idaho. Oct. '23. Please tell me how
to candy citron. Thanking you in advance.
E. O.
Directions for candying both citron
melon and real citron were given Sep
tember 20.
Portland. Or.. No . 1. Kindly give me a
recipe for clam chowder, ustiifc about a quart
of c iams. A friend told me of a "butter less,
mi Ik less, eitgless cake she tasted at the
world's fair in San Francisco Could you
tupplv such a renpe ? Thank'nc you for
Utiy "received. MRS. F.
By a lucky chance I also met that
impossible sounding cake at the Pana
ma -Pacific Exposition, and was pre
sented with the recipe which follows.
I have not tried it. but I think it must
be the one' your friend tasted. Fruit
could, of course, be substituted for
the nuts if preferred:
Butterless,. aiilkless. egglesa cake
TOE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, NOVE3IBER 14, 1915.
(Panama-Pacific Exposition). Two
cupfuls brown sugar, two-thirds cupful
lard, two cupfuls water, three cupfuls
raisins, one teaspoonf ui salt, two tea
spoonfuls powdered cinnamon, one
teaspoonful powdered cloves, one-half
teaspoonf ul powdered mace, one-half
teaspoonful grated nutmeg, two tea
spoonfuls baking soda, four cupfuls
flour, one teaspoonful baking powder,
one and one-half cupfuls chopped- nut
meats, three tablespoonfuls warm
water, one teaspoonful extract of va
nilla or lemon. Put lard into saucepan,
add sugar, water, raisins, salt and
spices and boil three minute-; cool and
when cold add flour, baking powder,
soda dissolved in warm water and nut
meats. Mix well and turn into a larded
and floured cake tin and bake
slow oven one and one-half hours.
Clam Chowder.
One. quart shelled clams, one quart
raw potatoes cut in half-inch dice, one
and one-half-inch cubes fat salt pork.
one tablespoon salt (level), one-eighth
teaspoon pepper, one-fourth cup but
ter, one quart scalded milk, one sliced
onion.
Clean and pick over clams, drain, re
serve liquor, heat to boiling point,
strain. Chop fine the hard part of
clams; try out the pork; add inion, fry
five minutes td a light brown; strain
into stewpan. Parboil potatoes five
minutes in water to cover; drain, put a
layer in bottom of stewpan, add
chopped clams, sprinkle wtih salt and
pepper, dredge with flour; aud re
maining potatoes in the same way;
add two and one-half cup3 boiling
water. Cook 10 minutes, add milk, soft
part of clams and butter; boil three
minutes. Add clam water, heated and
thickened with one tablespoon butter
and one tablespoon flour. Do not add
this to milk until the last moment, as
it may curdle.
PORTLAND, Nov. O. Will sou please friv
through the columns of The Sunday Orego
nian a recipe for dark fruit cake? Would
like one that is baked only, not first partly
steamed. Please tell me how to test the
oven to see if it is the right temperature
when I firVt put it in.
Thanking you In advance. MRS. H.
You do not say-whether you want a
rich or an inexpensive cake. The fol
lowing was sent me by a correspondent
some ume ago. Write again if it does
not read like the sort of thing you
had in mind. I have a whole volume
of fruit cake recipes of one kind and
another.
Line your pans with heavy white
greased paper to prevent burning. The
heat of the oven depends upon how
thick your loaves are to be. Use the
"four-quarter" rule (so frequently given
In this column) as a guide in your
baking. A teaspoon of flour on a
small sheet of parer will help you in
"guessing" about your oven, if you are
not well acquainted with it and have
no thermometer. The flour should be
gin to brown around the edges in 5
minutes, for a medium-sized fruit cake
of medium, richness. If it browns
sooner, the oven is too hot ; if later,
it is too cool. This is not an infallible
rule, but is sometimes helpful for
beginner. You must of course check
it by applying the "four-quarter rule"
mentioned above.
Fruit Cake.
(Mrs. R. F. R.)
(Hie cup butter, two cups brown
sugar, one cup molasses, one cup strong
coffee, four and one-half cups sitted
flour, two teaspoons soda, one tea
spoon baking powder, four eggs, one
teaspoon each of cloves, cinnamon and
mace, one pound raisins, on1 pound
currants, one-half pound figs, one-
fourth pound citron and one cup En
lish walnuts.
Have your raisins, currants and figs
thoroughly cleansed before commenc
ing the cake; also have walnuU
chopped ready. Cream the butter and
sugar together. Then add molasses,
coffee and eggs, the eggs having been
well beaten. Add next the soda. Sift
soda and baking powder together, also
mix spices and fruit with flour. Mix
all ingredients together and stir thor
oughly- Bake in moderate oven in .lay
ers. . Use the following filling:
One-half pound figs, one cup brown
sugar and water enough to float the
figs. Cook until p. th ick marmalade
is formed. Spread between layers.
This cake can also be baked in loaf
form. This recipe makes a large cake
and is much better when wrapped in
cloth and allowed to stand several
weeks to soften the fruit and nuts.
BLAINE. Wash., Oct. 31. Will you please
give recipe tor country sausage and head
cheese ? Dots the former need beef mixed
with the pork? L. H. W.
I cannot at the moment find my rec-
ipe for head cheese. Perhaps some
reader may make a suggestion; or I
may find mine by next week.
Sausage may be made of pork, or
pork and beef, or of beef only, or of
pork and veal or mutton the varia
tions are numerous, acd different
names are given,
may be varied.
Following is i
sausage recipe:
The flavorings also
typical plain pork
Home Mfide Sausage.
Young pork tenderloin, four pounds
cf any other lean cut. two pounds of
very fat cut. all without bones. Put
it through the sausage grinder (after
cutting up and freeing from all bone,
skins and gristle), and grind it three
times, or until as fine as desired. For
each pound of meat - use 1 teaspoon
sage. 1 teaspoon salt, 1-3 teaspoon
black or white pepper, as preferred.
teaspoon nutmeg or mace if liked.
Some makers like a suggestion of
thyme or summer savory in place of
using ail sage.' The amount of salt
and pepper may be varied to suit In
dividual taste. Mix in the seasoning
very thoroughly.
For storage, pack into Jars and cover
one inch thick with melted lard. Keep
in a cool storeroom. .
CO. G .WILL HOLD REUNION
(Continued From Page o. )
with insurance circles for some time.
He is manager of the Massachusetts '
Life Insurance Company here.
C. D. Emmons Now- with the War
ren Construction Company. He was
formerly in the real estate business
and has interests in the Queen Char
lotte Islands. B. C.
James E. Bangs Was a former dra
matic critic of The Oresonian. He is
now dead.
C. W. King Prominent in merchandising-
circles here for a lens time. He
is a member of the firm of Olds. Wort
man & King.
C. s Siadden. Now deceased. Was
formerly a real estate and insurance
dealer at Eugrene.
F. R. Lownsdale. In the real estate
business here for some time. Is now
dead.
H. A. Darnell. Was a manufactur
ers agent here and Is now living in
New York City. He was at one time
with the American Consulate in Paris.
- P.. Smith. After Hnmo-tima .
in hllsfllDaa In II.i 1 .1 L i . . . . .
' " ' ii nea on nis
farm near Oregon City. He has since
died.
N. F. Gillespie. Was with the Meier'
& Frank Company here for some time.
He left Portland a few years ago.
O. B. Stubbs. Proprietor of the
Stubbs Electric Company1 or this city.
C. A. Monell. Is clerk of the Dis
trict Court here.
J. M. Crabbe. Formerly in the in
surance business here. He went to
Caliiornia some time ago.
J. A. Reid. A former shoe manu
facturer here. He sold out and went
East.
J. JL Forsythe. Was with the busi
ness department of The Oregonian at
one time, but has gone East:
F. F. Pittock. Formerlv with the
business department of The Oregonian.
lie nas or late years been active In the
management of the Crown-Willamette
Paper Company's mill at Camas, Wash.
..ow in Dusiness in Portland.
-r. M. Taylor. Was an accountant
nere lor some time and is now in the
accounting department of King County
ac Seattle.
C. F. Schermerhorn. In business
here for some time. He is now a mer
chant in Honolulu.
J. C. Jones. An accountant here for
merly, but left the city for the East
some time ago.
H. D. Story. Now and for some time
past an attorney of this city.
Dr. G. F. Koehler. A physician here.
He has been -racticin in the city for
a numDer or years.
K. H. Palmer. Now in San Francisco.
Was formerly with the Northwest
.Newspaper Ijrtion here.
O. H. Stevens. Was with the First
National Bank here for some years.
He went fc.ast some time ago.
M. Mendenhall. Is now instructor in
the Arizona Agricultural College at
Tucson.
E. F. Campbell. Formerly . a sales
man here, but ic't the city and went
East.
F. A. Newton. No- living in Se
attle. He was deputy with T. Cader
Powell wh.n the latter was Marshal of
Alaska.
. F. Jones. A number of years in
the insurance business here. He is
now in Seattle in that business.
r. ti. fieming. is in the real es
tate business here. Was formerlv
teller at the Merchants National Bank
u. j. i?anemus. ow dead, was an
Insurance man and well . known as
musician. Has a daughter, a violinist,
on the Keith vaudeville circuit.
D. D. Shindler. A merchant in Oak
land. Cal. Was formerly in the furni
ture business with his father in Port
land.
C. A. Burckhardt. President of the
Alaska-Pacific Fisheries, with head
quarters in Portland and canneries in
Alaska.
P. Van Fridagh. Is a dealer in real
estate and insurance here.
C. E. Locivwood. An attorney in this
THANKSGIVING TABLE IS
TO HAVE NOVEL FAVORS
Anicent Nursery Rhyme of "Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe" Proves
Inspiration for One Place Marker Design.
i J.- C7 V . . - V
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S i : S
a 3
PblACE and plenty these are the
inestimable blessings for whlcn
the people of the United States
should gre thanks says the President
in his proclamation, setting November
25 as the National day of feasting.
For the feast there are any number
of new and captivating favors old
friends in new guise and new ideas,
never brought out before. An ancient
and beloved nursery rhyme has been
capped upon for inspiration in one case
WOMEN PLAY ROLES OF HEROINES
IN EUROPE AND UNITED STATES
Fate of Lady Ralph Paget Taken Prisoner by Bulgars, Is Subject, of Speculation Dr. Anna Shaw Refuses Car
in Suffrage Parade, Insisting on AY a Iking Women's Justice League Trying to Settle Colorado Differences.
Grace George Tjt
AMERICANS are Interested in the
fate of Lady Ralph Paget, who
is reported cantured by the
Bulgars at Uskub, while she was nurs
ing wounded Serbians. As Leila Paget,
she was well-known in London society
for several years before she married
her distant cousin. Sir Ralph Paget.
Her mother is Lady Arthur Paget, a
member of the Paran Stevens family.
which made much money keeping hotel
in New York.
.
The veteran suffragist. Dr. Anna
Shaw, marched in the suffrage parade
in New York City in her cap and gown.
An automobile was offered to her, but
she insisted on marching with the
others.
Tamaki Miura, the Japanese prima
donna, made her debut before the crit
ical New York public in "Madame But
terfly." The little Japanese woman
city, who has been prominent in poli
tics A. Cookingham. Is in' the transpor
tation business at Tacoma. owning- a
tfne of tugs on Puget Sound.
L. H. Lamberson. "Was in the - real
estate busines h re, but is now dead.
George W. Hoyt. Is assistant cash
ier in the Northwestern National Bank.
Was formerly cashier of the old Mer
chants National Bank.
George M. Hoyt. Is now dead. Was
formerly in the Insurance business
here
J. D. Leonard. Well Itnown in bank
ing circles and is teller at the United
States National Bank.
C. D. McLaine. Died several years
and the kiddies gathered about the
Thanksgiving board will especially ap
preciate this "Old Women .Who Lived
in a Shoe," though the shoe has fear
some features and weird eyes instead
of the neat buttons, one expects on a
conventional boot.
Nobody loves- a worm, but with the
fruit of the gorden, garnered for
Thanksgiving, along comes the big
garden worm, dressed up foppishly in
a tall hat and writhing characteristic
ally on a box of sweetmeats.
: ' H : . V S !
LJ I i 5 " ;
nlsa, "..a8r
y
was nervous at the thought of facing
the public and the critics in New York,
but her nervousness soon left her when
she found how cordial and appreciative
her audienca was. Her appearance
created much enthusiasm. Physically,
she visualizes the 15-year-old Japanese
girl of the operatic tragedy better than
any of her predecessors and her acting
was warmly commended.
Miss Grace George had an- idea that
a good stock company, giving good
plays for short seasons, would be pop
ular with the New York public. Miss
George proceeded to organize a well
balanced company of players. There
were difficulties from the first. One
of the greatest was the loss of Miss
George's leading man. She engaged
Jvenneth Douglas, who became ono of
the passengers on the ill-fated
Arabic. After losing all his personal
property in the sinking of that ship.
ago. w as secretary of the Portland
Electric Light Company.
E. R. Marring. Formerly a travel
ing man with headquarters in Port
land. He left the city some years ago.
H. M. Cake. An attorney here, well
known in legal and political circles.
H. E. Judge. General agent for the
Valvoline Oil Company here. A former
president of the Multnomah Club.
R. H. -Wallace. After some years
spent' in business here,, he is now an
orchardist at Hood River.
J. 'Norman Biles. Dear' Was quite
well known as an artist.
Harold Pilkington. Was a student at
the time he joined Company G. He
became a lawyer and later went East.
H. C. Johnson. Is now dead. Was in
the stationery business in this city.
M. W. Gorman. Was prominent as a I
botanist and worked In Alaska for the
Government. He is now curator of the
Forestry building.
O. P. McFall. Was in the paper busi
ness here-and is now-a farmer in the
Hood River district.
Ed Tucker. Is now in Seattle, where
he is connected with a firm of book
publishers and stationers.
F. O. Burckhardt. Is vice-president
of the Alaska-Pacific Fisheries Com
pany, with headquarters here.
George F. Jones. Now dead. Was
formerly a solicitor for The Orego
nian. H. A. Sehaub. Was prominent in
the transportation busines here and is
now city freight agent for the Bur-
ngton at Seattle.
I.. R Flint. Was traveling salesman
for a carpet house in Portland and Is
now a merchant at Eugene.
Ivan Humason. Is in tne real estate
business here, an occupation he has
followed for years.
GIRL WED, THEN COURTED
Bridegroom, However, Oisappenrs as
Another Marriage Is Arranged.
TRENTON. N. J. Nov. 6. Having
kept their marriage a secret for six
months. Mr. and Mrs. Roland C. Rocka
fellow, of North Plainfield. allowed
their parents to arrange another wed
ding, which was interfered with by
the disappearance of the bridegroom,
according to the story unfolded in the
suit for divorce brought by Mrs. Laura
Warnoch Rockafellow. The Court of
Chancery has just allowed the wife a
decree nisi, whfch is in reality a tem
porary decree becoming absolute in six
months if the court so desires.
The suit descloses one of the most
interesting cases that has come before
the Court of Chancery in some years.
After their clandestine marriage Rock
afellow kept on courting hia wife,
whom everybody still supposed to be
Miss Warnoch, then the date for the
weeding was set and, according to the
testimony, as the time approached
Rockafellow became afraid of the ex
posure, and at a dinner in nonor of
the proposed wedding attendants, his
wife told him that If he failed to an
nounce the truth she would do it her
self. He lost his nerve, quit the house
and wasn't seen' again. That was al
most three years ago, and the man has
never communic.ted with his wife
since.
Ogden Mills on Atchison Board.
TOPEKA, Kan., Nov. 7. Ogden Mills,
Mr. Douglas cabled his resignation,
having decided to remain in England.
However, his place was filled and Miss
George opened her season with a re
vival of Langdon Mitchell's "The New
York Idea," It has proved a great suc
cess. Mrs. John Ellis Roosevelt, wife of a.
cousin of ex-President Roosevelt, has
sued her husband for a separation,
charging "cruel and inhuman treat
ment." She was Miss Hammersley and
she is a sister of Mrs. Robert Roose
velt. She married Mr. Roosevelt, who
was a widower, in January, 1914.
.
The "Women's Justice League, of
which Mrs. Lee Champion is president,
is trying to adjust the differences in
the mining districts of Colorado. When
J. Z. Rockefeller. Jr., was in Denver
recently. Mrs. Champion interviewed
him and reported that the interview
was most satisfactory.
of New York, has been elected a direct
or of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe
Railroad for a four-year term to suc
ceed the late Thomas P. Fowler, of
New York, at the 20th annual meeting
of the stockholders of the road.
Charles S. Gleed, of Topeka, and Wal
ter D. Himes and S. Rieman Duval, of
New York, were re-elected directors.
The coat mined in the United Stales .ast
vear would load a train of cars lonp enough
to reach four and a half times around th
earth.
To Prevent
Falling Hair
W(S
(McuraSoap
And Ointment
Are most successful because they re
move dandruff, allay itching and irrita
tion, keep the scalp clean, and promote
healthy, hair growing conditions.
Samples Free by Mail
Cuttcur Soap nd Ointment aolt tsrywherw.
Liberal sample of each mailed tree wlta 32-p. book.
ddreaa pott-card "Cutlcura." JDept. 3G. Boston.
Make Your Hair Curly
and Wavy Over Night!
To curl the batr, without . at the same
time burning the iife out ot it. nothing
equals plain liquid rilmerine. If a little bo
applied to the hair with a clt-an tooth
brush before retiring, the loveliest wavy
effect imaginable will be in evidence in the
morning. It will also be found an excel
lent dreeJsinK for the hair.
ThU simple method is not to be com-
Bared with curling by means of a hot iron
ecause, instead of injuring the hair, it is
really beneficial A few ounces of the
liquid, which may be procured at any drug
store, will last for months. One can curl
the hair in any style desired and the effect
will b one of perfect naturalness. The
best wav Is to divide the hafr into strands
aid moisten each of them from root to tip.
The hair will be beautifully glossy, yet
without the least greasinesa or tlckintss.
Adv.