9
with a teaspoonful of salt, all beaten
until very light. One eup of milk,
three of sifted flour and three tea
spoonfuls of baking power. One-half
graham and one-half rye meal may be
used instead of wheat flour, or two cups
of cornmeal and one of flour. Drop
on well-greased patty pans and bake
20 minutes in a rather quick oven, or
bake on a griddle in muffin rings.
OPERA GOWNS THIS SEASON SHOW
TRAINS AND SUSPICION OF BUSTLE
PORTRAITS SHOWN OF WOMEN WHOSE
DOINGS ARE OF INTEREST TO WORLD
Marguerite Leslie Coming From England to Act Under Frohman Management Grand Dneheas of Luxemburg
Reported Considering Abdication Princess Marie of Anhalt la to Marry Joachim, the Kaiser's Youngest Son.
Costumes More Brilliant Than Ever, mod One Is Described of Pale Blue Panne Velvet in Combination
Sparkling Metal .Lace Decolletage Pronounced, but Has Modestie of Draped Tulle.
"With
CHILDREN DO FINE WORK
(Continued From Ure C.)
to
jfj 1 - Zt f Sr . 4 . , . . S 1 I
IF ever there is a suitable occasion
for the wearing of a train, that
occasion is surely the opera, where
formal gowns are called for. Thi3
year the train is an attachment rather
than part of the gown itself. Typical
of current modes is this costume of
pussy willow paneled net, over which
is draped one of the new trains of lace.
The panels of pale blue pussy willou.
TRAINS LEND TOUCH OF FORMALITY
TO OPERA GOWNS OF LATEST MODE
Bouffant Draperies Often Are Combined in Revival of Old-Time Fad Skirt Is Short Enough to Sliow Instep and
Ankle Brocaded Pussy Willow Silk Is Popular Material.
OPERA raiment deserves a whole
page to itself because it is rai
ment that establishes a prece
dent, that offers a criterion. It ex
Presses the utmost of formality at for
mality's utmost correctness. Anything
rood enough for wear at the opera,
will be good enough to wear at any
evening occasion which demands the
last word In elegance and convention
ality of dress.
Only one occasion call3 for greater
richness and formality of attire, that
is a presentation to royalty at the
Court of St. James. As there is no
court in America and no presentation
days on which Jewels may gleam and
rich satins and brocades sweep in
yards of train behind their wearers,
the opera must be accepted as the su
preme occasion for the exploitation of
the "grand toilette" as the French
would say.
Not only the dressmakers and the
furriers are on the qui vlve for weeks
before this momentous event. The jew
elers make ready their most stunning
ornaments; the bootmakers are ready
with exquisite slipper wear: fans of ap
propriate type are temptingly displayed,
reticules, hair ornaments, elaborate
evening petticoats como in . for their
share of interest. Even taxi drivers
are on the alert for not everybody
goes to the opera in a private limou
sine. Opera Gowns Have Trains.
On the grand opening night the
streets surrounding the opera-house
are Jammed with equipages and with
people anxious to see what the exclu
slves are wearing. Reporters wedse
themselves into commanding positions
for obseiving. Opera-glasses, leveled
from the galleries, sweep the brilliant
parterre of boxes and the orchestra
stalls, where slso. stunning clothes are
to be noted. It is one of Manhattan's
most splendid spectacles and no event
of the season is more important from
the sartorial standpoint.
Last season, scarcely a single train
swept tho carpet of the corridor which
Hanks the parterre boxes. This year
there will be trains a-plenty, for trains
are coming In again, and the train is
peculiarly adapted for expressing the
dignity and elegance inseparable from
an opera tolleti. The new trains hang
from waistline or from the edge of the
decolletage at back, and fall to the
llcor quite Independently of the skirt.
They are often quite separate from
the costume which may be worn'with
out the train as a dance frocft if de
sired. These independent trains are
msde of material contrasting with the
material of the gown; they may bo of
lace, when the gown is cf satin golden,
rod or some other rich satin; they may
be of velvet when the gown is of lace,
or they may be of brocade or metallic
tissue when the gown is of velvet.
The train is not long as a rule, it
drags only four or Ave inches on the
floor, but inevitably it gives the line
of dignity and the effect of impres
alveness so much to he desired. There
is no more beautiful accessory of
woman dres . Uian the train, and It
silk are appliqued to an open silk net
foundation, sivingr the costume an ef
fect of dainty lightness. Over the train
which also forms part of the
bodice is tied a girlish sash of velvet
ribbon.
A simple little frock, however delec
table in itself, would be lost in obli
vion amoni? the brilliant costumes or
opera night. One must be splendidly
gowned and wrapped to take part in
should never be abandoned in the cos
tume of ceremony and formality.
Sometimes the train is combined
with bouffant draperies one opera
costume. Just completed, shows a train
used with an actual bustle drapery,
though this drapery is looped up over
the sweeping folds of the train and is
quite separate from it. The gown is a
most beautiful model of ciel blue vel
vet, overdraped with silver laco at
sides and front of the skirt.
This skirt is short enough to show
the instep and ankle, but the blue
velvet train sweeps to good length
at the back. The bodice is of silver
lace, and below it there is a short tip
tunic, also of silver lace, stiffened
Hair Should Be Dressed to
Give Hat Proper Tilt.
Extremely High Coiffures Are Cor
rect for EvoninK, and Pins Add
Greatly to Effect.
rpHE hair may be dressed to make
X the tilt of the street hat correct.
High extremely .high coiffures are
the thing, for the evening. And into
the piled-up coiffures, toward one side,
is thrust a sparkling pin.
One particular pin is of imitation
- .-'J''
i
Cotnh for Formal Coiffure.
amber imbedded with rhinestones so
arranged that tho design shows thf.
amber through in pear-ahaped motifs.
Sometimes two pins are used. oa at
either side, or the jfina may be thrust
into tho hair on below the other, at
the sam side of the head..
11
1
I
the trreat pageant. A typical opera
costume brought up to date is of pale
blue panne velvet in combination with
sparkling metal lace. The decolletage
is pronounced in cut. though "there is
a modestie of draped tule. The sea
son's rather short skirt is united to a
long train and the metal lace peplum,
made to flare out by means of light
stiffening at the edge, merges into a
bustle drapery at the back.
around the lower edge with feather,
bone and forming small wir.sr draner-
ies at the sides. At the back the short
lumi; ja mcaeq up to make a coquet
iisn pusue drapery, over tho velvet
train.
Another trained gown for opening
upem nigni is or orocaded pussywillow
silk, also pale blue In color and by
the way. pale blue seems to be a fa.
vored tint for this season. The skirt
has a full flare around the ankrl
produced by setting inverted pleats of
silver net between panels of the pale
blue silk. A V-ner-ked sleeveless bodice
of silver net and lace sweeps at the
back downward to form a narrow train
which trails about four inches behind
tho feet.
It should be the easiest thing in the
world for the woman who desires a
modish train to attach a yard-wide
strip of lace to the shoulders of her
evening frock, confine it at the waist
line under a flat bow or sash arrange
ment and then allow the lace strip to
fall straight to the tloor. and lie there
an inch or two.
Opera Gowns Are Fur-Edged.
Trains are not at a premium, how.
ever, in costumes intended for wear In
orchestra seats or in the dress circle.
Full evening dress is the requirement
here, also, but there is not much space
to move about, and of course gowns
and jewels do not show off to as good
advantage as in the luxurious setting
of the boxes. Occasionally a black
evening gown is worn at the opera, but
such a gown must be very brilliant .
or must reveal a great deal of white
back and shoulders to be an effective
part of opera splendor.
Black tulle edged with black fur
and trimmed with broad bands of jet
ted net. comes up to the requirement
for brilliance. There is almost no
bodice at all, merely a,broad strip of
jetted black net over swathings of
black tulle, and two narrow shoulder
straps of jet. Bare arms are quite the
fashion now, and one need not don
long gloves unless one chooses, evsn
for an occasion as formal as the op
era. Only a woman to the manner
born, who wears evening dress everj
night of her life, can maintain abso
lutely her personality with arms en
eased above the elbow in restricting
kid gloves. They have a trick of re
minding one every minute that one is
"dressed up" and on one's best be
havior. Fortunately, just now, they
may be dispensed with without offend
ing Dame Fashion.
Most-of the exclusive opera wraps
are of velvet this year. And such vel
vets! In such indescribable and bril
liant shades! Chinese blue embroidered
with silver threads, one eeesgorgeous
Mandarin yellow, flame, petunia, Amer
ican beauty, jade green, copper.
And almost invariably there is a
touch of fur quite often a great deal
of fur. as in the case of a white velvet
debutante wrap trimmed with eight
inch wide bands of braver and lined
with flowered pussywillow silk.
1 How to Make Muffins Told.
One egg, well beaten, a tablespoonf ul
o butter and a tablespoonf ul of sugar.
give the most amount of butter fat to
the amount of milk. , But' that is not
all that we are after. We want the
skimmed milk to feed our pjgs and
young calves.
"I was quite undecided what cows I
would enter in on record keeping for
the first month. The cows that' 1
would like to enter were not fresh. I
entered two Jerseys that had been giv
ing milk for some time and were not
giving as much as they should.
"The Ayrshires are well-bred stock.
I fed my cows that were giving milk
what the Oregon Agricultural College
calls a balanced ration and . the, cows
that ar not giving milk also get. a
balanced ration, but somewhat differ
ent. 1 weigh the milk three times a
month on the 5th. 15th and 25th. I
milk my cows around 5:30 in the morn
ing and 6 o'clock at night and, test
once each month.
"There was a little change of feel
from .January to' February. I did not
feed quite so much hay as I did during
January. t iftd :y cows more kale
and roots in place of to much hay. The
test of February varied some from that
of January, as I have read, it is due to
the change of feed. March 14 I start
ed pasturing my cows on woods pas
ture. I charged it,in my record at the
rate of 50 cents a month for each cow.
Grass Fed In Spring-.
"For the month of March I weighed
the feed and ml)k and tested the same
as usual. April 1 I started feeding
the cows not quite as much dry feed,
for the green grass had begun to grow.
I did not feed roots during the month
of March, for they wore all fed out
during the month of February.
"During the month of May we fed
green vetch to -our cows. I valued
it in my record at $3.60 a ton. We
planted during May a half acre of man
gel beets to feed our cows, to get them
In shape for the coming State Fair. AVe
also planted an acre of rutabagas and
three acres of field corn to feed the
cows during the coming Winter.
"I have spent many nights during
this Summer working on this record
keeping, but X do not regret one min
ute, of the time that I have. spent. I
know the cows that are not paying for
their feed and they are the" ones we
are selling off. I also know that I
have improved In my writing by copy
ing so many times.
"I feel Uiat if 1 Co not win a po-lze
at the different fairs with this project
that I know I have won a prize by tho
experience I have had In feeding and
care of my cows,"
Girl Does Best With Turkeys.
Miss Carmen Jones, of Vincent, Or.,
is a Umatilla County girl who leads
the state in turkey breeding. f-he has
demonstrated that there is lots of
money to be made in turkeys in the
Eastern Oregon wheat belt. In addi
tion to making over J150 protit with
her turkeys only half grown, she won
the grand priie offered by E. R. Cor
bett, chairman of the Portland Clearing
House Association, to the boy or girl
making the best record in the turkey
club work. Miss Jones writes: ,
"About the first of March, 1915. 1
entered the poultry department of the
boys' and girls' industrial club contest
from School District No. 99. Umatilla
County. Oregon. I started with 15
young' pure-bred bronze turkey hens
and two 2-year-old Toms. The liens
were raised on the ranch and the Toms
were purchased from a man north of
Fendleton who keeps pure-bred fowls.
They weighed 40 pounds each and I
paid $15 for the two.
"When the hens began to lay I
cropped one wing and tied a forked
stick to the other one and put them in
a pasture fenced with hog wire with
three barbed wires on top to keep' them
from straying away while nesting. They
did well for a while on the green alfalfa.
I fed them grain each, evening. Each
day- after they had laid I would herd
them out to let them have a better va
riety of food.
MaKplex Peek Kggs.
"It was a pleasure to gather the
eggs until the magpies found their
net in the brushpiles. The birds
would peck holes in the eggs and eat
the yolks. I nut poison in some esrss
and placed them on stumps where the
magpies could get them. In this way
I got rid of them.
"The hens averaged about 12 eggs a
day during the laying season. I put
au eggs in an incubator and set nv
hens on 15 eggs each. " ' As each
hen became broody I moved her to a
wire pen, where she was supplied witn
food and water until she hatched.
"I kept setting hens as I got eggs
until 1 had 13 hens setting and when
the eg?s In the incubator hatched I
placed the little turks with these hens.
In all I had 275 egge setting and out
or these 248 little, turkeys hatched.
(This was May 2).
"I did not lose any to speak of ex
cepting those the hens crushed until
the latter part of May, when the cold
rains started in and lasted about three
weeks. I then kept them in coons in
a shed, but the damp weather and no
sunsnine took them off by the dozen.
After the weather became fair and the
ground was dry enough to let them out
again there were plenty of grasshop
pers and more than all could eat. This
5s what they have feasted upon all
Summer, with a little grain that they
picked up in the field. They were
also given charcoal. But the con
tinued nold rains seemed to cause veg
egtation to sour and after the turkeys
were feathered they took the sour crop
and I lost a large number from this.
Turkeys Dislike Houses.
"The young turks soon wanted to
fly up to roost and seemed to dislike
to be housed. So papa made a wire
pen about 25 feet long and perhaps 15
feet wide and 10 feet high. In this pen
they are driven every evening.
."I have lost In all 12 pf the May
turkeys by the coyotes. These tur
keys weighed from eight to ten pounds
each. At IS cents per pound this
would be a loss of $23.04 in the last
month. ,
"I have just 100 young turkeys that
were hatched in May: All the hens
but four laid and set' again. Now
they have 90 young turks. most of
which are about the size of half,
grown chickens. I gave these the
same care and feed, as far as neces
sary, that I gave the early ones.
"One morning about 4 o'clock the
pigs rooted one coop over and ate all
that brood but two, and about a week
from that time at midnight an old
coyote ate 19. All together I lost 34
of these younger turkeys, but I have
not lost any since. I hope to market
tfaese about February.
"They are getting all of their own
living fiom the farm mostly grass
hoppers, and a little grain that they
find in the stubblefield. The grain
feed I bcught for the young turkeys
at a cost of 14.80. which, with the bread
and milk, amounted to $7.55. The
young turkeys were given grain until
they were 10 days old and then they
were turned out. The laying hens
were fed 12.40 worth of grain, which
averaged 15 cents each.
- Gain Deemed Reasonable.
"The charcoal fed I made myself and
hence did not enter it in the cest of
production..
"This estimated gain I think is a
reasonable one. since I have figured the
present value of the turkeys at market
price for meat; but since they are pure
bred. 1 have already had chances to
sell for breeding purposes at prices
above their estimated cost.
"X exhibited one trio at the Umatilla
Ml.ti yC'-N ZA.
SSx J) p-7
If L'TW
II Ll--. -
1 V Jilt
V7 VW; '
ONE of Baltimore's pretty de
butantes is Christine Bowie
Mackall, daughter of Charles
Mackall. Her family was prominent
socially in Washington for many years
and her father Is the owner of much
valuable property there. Miss Mackall
spent the Summer at North Hatley.
Canada, and Cape May.
One of the roost beautiful of English
actresses is coming to this country to
act under the Frohman management
She is Marguerite Leslie. For two years
she was leading woman for Charles
Wyndham and then she went to Froh
man's London theater and ' created
roles in original productions which
were produced afterward in America.
Last season she created the part of
Henrlette In "Tho Secret," by Bern
stein. It is in this part that she will
appear in America '
There is a rumor that the Grand
Duchess of Luxemburg will abdicate
and that Charlotte, her eldest sister,
will succeed her. There are six of
the sisters. Marie Adelaide, the old
est, succeeded her father as the ruler
of the little duchy, which was invaded
against ner protest by the Germans at
the beginning of the war. Charlotte,
the second sister, was born January
23. 1896, and Elizabeth March 7, 1901.
Princess Mario Augustine of Anhalt
is to marry Joachim, the youngest son
of the German Kaiser. She is the old
est of four children of Prince Edward
of Anhalt and niece of the reignlna
Duke, Frledrich II. Her mother was
Princess Louise of Saxe-Attenburg. She
is II.
. m m
One of the interesting weddings of
the near future is that of Matilda Bige
low. of Home and New York, to Her
bert Pell, of Tuxedo Park. Miss Bige.
low s iatner was the late Nelson Biire.
low. of Lake Forest. 111.. and her
motner'ls Airs. Edward M. Pr.r)lfi-rt
She was living in Rome when the war
oroae out. out is now liviner in New
York. Miss Bigelow's mother was
aopnia uorda. daughter of a well
known Philadelphian.
xneaier.go.er8 who can recall the
days of a decade and a half ago. when
Julia Arthur, now Mrs. Benjamin P.
Cheney, Jr., of Boston, was one of the
brightest stars, will be more than
pleased at the information ttat after
her retirement of 15 years she is again
County Fair at Vincent September 11
5 and won flrst place.
"The same trio also won first place
at the school fair in the Industrial olub
exhibit." ,
Breadmaker Wins Trip.
Florence Wharton, of Roseburg, is a
Douglas County girl, who is the cham
pion breadmaker of the state. Not only
did she do all the home baking, but
she made the two loaves of bread and
the layer cake that scored the highest
of all in the state baking club contest
As a reward for her work and skill a
trip to the Oregon Agricultural College
Summer school for boys and girls was
awarded her, all expenses being paid
by H. L. Pittock, of Portland.
Miss' Gertrude Courtrvey. of La
Grande, a 17-year-old Union County
girl, was declared the champion potato
grower in the state this year, and to
her was awarded the grand-prize of
fered by H. W. Mitchell. nresiAent nf
, the Portland Implement and Vehicle
Clllh
S Miss Courtney's financial statement
is as follows:
Size of plant operated: r,eneth iOO fet :
width. T5 fet.
Cost of plowing-, discing, harrowing1
solf and team) 12 hours s 3.00
-Tost of hoeing potatoes. 9 hour 90
Cost of teed, spraying mixture, etc.,
24 sacks at J-', and formaidyhide. . 5.15
Plaiitinf(, labor, team, etc. 1.05
Cultivating potatoes .73
Digging and gathering potatoes 3.'o
Rent of land , .- 3.00
Culling, $50c; cribbing, $1.50. market
ing, tU , 3.00
Total ...Ile.us
Estimated value of potato crop
Total vleld In Dushela at 60 pounds 'per
buthel, 83.
Value of marketable potatoes $40 00
B value of "cull" potatoes 500
C value of seed potatoes sold or re
tained for own u.e 2 OO
Value potato crop and products S4S.40
Net profit on Club work.... J35i05
Money Made From Apricots.
A Wasco County boy. Exil Morgan, of
The Dalles, demonstrated that there is
money in apricots. The financial state
" J v J- "t a lis. : - y-wvr si
.3
-
f
A
ta be seen on the boards where Bhe
made such a decided success years ago.
Since her retirement from the, staga
she has been living the quiet life of the
wife of a Boston millionaire, who has
made his fortune In the manufacture
of silks. Time and time again has
she had flattering offers to return for
abrlef spell to tne stage, but always
has she turned down the tempting of
fers, until there came from Cleveland
s, newspaper man witn the script of a
new play.
ment of his work with 50 trees won the
grand prize offered by E. R. Corbett, of
the Portland Clearing-house Associa
tion, to the club member making the
best record in the fruit-growing
project.
His financial statement is as follows:
Cost of production 50 6-year-old apricot
treea
Packing r,13 crates apricots at 3c..-.$ "5.60
oi cratea, at 4 HO.
Cost of picking. 10 days at SI....
Cost of paper. Jc per crate
Cost of tops. 512 at 3c
Prujiing. two days at SI
Thinning, four days at SI
Cultivating, Cay at ?- per day.
Total coat of production
Receipts
512 crate of apricots 1.
Over-ripe sold in local market....
Total receipts
Net profit
3.04
10. 0O
j.r
2.O0
4.U0
1.00
. .f 409. fill
. . 1.'.00
. .S424.b0
. .S341.04
Boudoir Slippers and Cap
Dainty Gift for Bride.
Easily Packed Outfit May Be Tucked
la Traveling Bag; on Eve of De
parture and Takes tp Less Room
Than fUee.
A DAINTY- and acceptable gift to
tusk Into the bride's traveling bag
as a little surprise to her when her
destination is reached is a boudoir set
of cap and ribbon slippers. The en
tiro outfit will take up scarcely any
room at all in the bag not as much
room as the handful of rice which is
sometimes slipped in by a mischievous
bridesmaid.
The cap is an ordinary boudoir cap
of .white point d'esprit. frilled with
line white lace and trimmed with the
best quality of latin ribbon in pale
blue or pink shade. A bow of the rib
bon is caught against the cap with a
tiny rhinestone buckle. The slippers
have very flexible soles, cut from pale
blue or pink goldenrod satin; two lay-
niit-yv -fcics- r-
iff - l
VV1
ers of the satin for each sole and
thin layer of cotton batting may bs
slipped between if one fancies a little
thicker sole.
Two-inch blue or pink satin ribbon
Is sewed around the edge of the sole
and fastened together at the back.
About two inches of the ribbon are.
gathered along its upper edge over
cord elastic, to hold the slipper on at
the heel. The ribbon is gathered in
at the toe and the gathers are covered
with a tlat bow of satin ribbon and a
-rhinestone buckle like the buckle oa
the cap.
The
number
of electric liarht companies
Tatep s estimated at .VOQ.
DO YOUR HANDS
ITCH AND BURN
Because Of Eczemas, Rashes,
Chapping Etc? U So
CUTICURA SOAP AND
CUT1CUBA OINTMENT
Will afford instant relief and
quickly heal even when all else
has failed. On
retiring bathe
the hand?
freely with
CuticuraSoap
and hot water.
Pry. and rub
Cuticura Ointment gently into
the skin for a few minutes.
Wipe off surplus Ointment with
soft tissue paper or leave H on
and wear old gloves" or soft
bandage during night.
Samples Free by Mall
Concur Soa and Otntmast sold svarrwbar
Liberal tamota of sacs nuulad frat wits keek.
aaaresa poat-eara "Cattaura." Dept. 13, Bo
And You Wake Up With
Beautifully Curly Hair!
(Tewn Tattler)
This U a -,?crt that will. I Know, f apt
predated by my lady -who tUIik tho tdl.
ou and "nervous" task of twisting ler lpcUs
around a healed Iron, perhaps singeine tli
hair, bum in off the end and- bliterin;
fingers or scalp in tht operation. From any
drusUt procure a few ounce of pure
liquid silmerints and at pftfht pour a Htt;a
onto a clean tooth brush ana draw this
down the full length of ths hair. A kimple
thin to do, but remarkably etfectuil, as
will be apparent in th morning.
The hair will havu a wonderfully toft,
fluffy nurlinesB, much more natural Meelc
ins. tflosKier and Uvfeiier In apparr.c
thn wher a waving Iron has been uttd.
Silmerine doesn't make the hair sticky or
creaky . and there will bo no trouble dnint?
it un in any atvl desirod. Olca cr-mmmm
si
If I
Adv. , . - .