4.
THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 31. 1915.
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' Says . '. . ' : '
fr '''ft'
Beauty Wins Through Idle
ness, but Your Hands Can
Be Pleasant Company if
Taught Good Manners
WE SEE many fine women who
take more pride in their beauti
ful hands than in any other fea
tures of their makeup.
Those who are under the law of toll
and bear the Indelible prints of handi
craft cannot perhaps appear at all
times with perfect hands. But they can
rest in the comfort of knowing: that
"those divine tools," as Aristotle called
them, are breadwinners and have uses
In the world beyond the ordinary.
An eminent scientist has asserted
that by the Inspection of the hands he
can tell, in nine cases out of ten, the
avocation of the owner. Every trade
and every employment, except the
treadmill, calls for some assistance
from the bands. Lifting; heavy objects,
sweeping-, washing:, scrubbing-, when
long: continued, especially during
growth, destroy the admired shape and
contour.
The hand of little use not only has
the daintiest touch but the daintiest
form. The fingers are round and ta
pering:, the joints are small, the skin
is smooth and the lines shallow. Com
pare such a one with the hands of a
washerwoman and note how beauty
wins through idleness.
Even the lighter employments de
form to some extent this complex mem
ber. In writing-, if the pen or pencil
Is held awkwardly or in a cramped po
sition, it will soon leave a slight dis
figurement. A too small thimble will
distort the finger. Rings are often
left on the fingers until they are half
buried in a deep crease, and it is next
to Impossible to remove ehem.
I know many instances where the
hand has become puffy and ill-shaped
by wearing gloves that are fastened
too tightly at the wrists.
It is needless to emphasize the im
portance of the use of gloves.
The court ladies in olden times prob
ably could never boast of their pretty
hands, for the fashion of wearing
gloves with full dress was first intro
duced in England by Anne Boleyn, the
unfortunate Queen of Henry VIII.
Gloves were not at all popular at
first, and the great ladles of the court,
jealous that the country girl who was
made Queen should outstrip them In
the arts of beauty, circulated the report
that she had six fingers and adopted
like a clenched fist upon the arms of
chairs. poundVng the furniture while
talking, are the hands of a tyrant.
The poor, desperate hands that clasp
and unclasp continually denote a weak
and uncertain mind.
Deep thinkers sometimes mark up
tablecloths, tear the floral decorations
at table, and draw imaginary geomet
rical figures upon the cloth with fork
and knife or spoon, or fold up napkins
in odd shapes, keeping the hostess In a
fear of dread lest they ruin the whole
dinner.
Love brings out qualities of the
hands that are unknown to those who
have not loved, and forgotten by those
who have ceased- to love. The touch of
sympathy, the clasp of loyalty, the
touch of fear and the pressure of jeal
ous repulsion are a language of su
preme poetry.
Truth often lurks in the pressure of
the hands when the lips are trying to
deceive.
Be honest with your hands, and
whether they are worn and disfigured
by work, or beautiful and symmetrical
from idleness, let them express the
sympathy that you feel and the sin
cerity you know. They can be beauti
ful in cleanliness and care. They can
be pleasant company if taught good
manners, and they can be true emis
saries of love and friendship if allowed
to express what is in the heart by a
touch.
Hands should never be hard and
stilted in movement, but graceful and
easy of motion.
Gestures are detractors to beauty of
expression. More force can be ex
pressed by a pressure of the hand of a
lover than in all the words spoken and
all the language of the eyes.
(Copyright. 1915. by Lillian Russell.)
Lillian Russell's
Beauty Answers
GH. To make a lotion to correct the
. red and oil condition of the skin
add 15 grains of tannic acid to five
ounces of camphor water. This should
be used several times during the day.
In addition you should drink quan-
fill the bottle with elder flower wa
ter, add one ounce of eau de cologne
and shake well. Then add one-half,
ounce of simple tincture of benzoin,
shake slightly and fill with elder flow
er water. Apply with a soft sponge
night and morning.
E. H. Massage the busts gently
night and morning with spirits of cam
phor. Exercise with chest weights,
row, swim, box and fence. Vigorous
exercise of any sort which involves
the arm and chest muscles will help
you to get rid of the superflous flesh.
Miss Millie M. U.. Stony Plains.
Canada You might try this lotion for
the freckles: Lactic acid, four ounces;
glycerine, two ounces, and orange
flower water, one ounce.
Alice, Frazee, Minn. Your queries
require too detailed a reply to be an
swered here. I will be glad to give
you the information you wish if you
will send me a stamped and addressed
envelope for the formulas.
FUR AND BRAID VIE AS
FALL SUIT TRIMMINGS
Season's Fashions Have Touch of Simplicity and Practicability Is Carried
Out in All Wearing AppareL Motoring Coats Made of Heavy Material.
At.t. along the streets of the retail
section of any of our large Amer
ican cities the shop windows,
with their lovely women in new street
and party array, arc picture wooing
the shopper to enter and view the
glories within doors. On all floors of
the shops nothing is talked about but
new lines, new fabrics and new trim
mings that show the dividing lines be
tween the Fall fashions and those that
have gone before.
There will be a great deal of tinsel
in trimmings, much embroidery in the
way of motif, fur on everything and
good fur, all things considered much
broadcloth, velours and chiffon velvets
for street suits and much silk and
transparent crepe for indoor wear;
many ostrich tips, veilings rampant,
gingerbread perforations in shoe trim
mings, and, as before stated, fur trim
ming has a great vogue this season,
many of the suits made of broadcloth,
whipcords, velours, etc, are trimmed
with fur instead of the also popular
braids.
Fur is the ideal trimming for wom
en's Winter garments; besides being
rich and smart in appearance, it is so
comfortable and suggestive of warmth
on the cold days. It is a matter of
conjecture which trimming, fur or
braid will become the greatest favor
ite during this season; certain it is
that furs are more lavishly used than
son are practicable; there is not much
folly in fashions to shout at in this
year 1915, thanks to woes beyond the
seas.
Original ideas in millinery are usual
ly as hard to And as in other fields.
The imported models cost what the
Initiated think fabulous prices, because
of the original ideas embodied in them.
Copies of such models, equally as well
made, can be had, however, at reason
able rates, some shops offering beauti
ful copies of Importations as low as
$15. in velvet, gold and silver lace and
other combinations. However, indica
tions point to simplicity of shape and
trimmings In the new hats.
Paris favors the turban hat and
scores of the individual examples of
this mode are on display, in types ex
quisitely appropriate to carry out the
silhouette of this Winter and Autumn.
The charming diversity of their design
is expressed in a varied assemblage,
which Is the keynote of their appeal
to all ages. There are turbans for the
matron of conservative fancy and tur
bans of bewitching coqfuetry for the
maid in her teens. For every occa
sion a turban may be worn correctly,
commending itself above all previous
modes for general practicality. There
are trim turbans for motoring, high
turbans for formal -near, velvet toques
for afternoon, turbans with a wing or
a bow for street or calling wear.
Hat Stylex Varied.
There are many other small hats
shown also Colonials, tricones and
high - crowned models In typical va
riety, but the dominant ideas are ex
pressed in two styles, small, chic, close
fitting turbans or toques and the sailor,
the newest type of which is a sailor
with drooping or undulating brim In
stead of the straight brim worn in
seasons past, and many novel slashed
brim effects are being shown among
the extreme models. Fancy ostrich
tips trim many smart hats and there
are all sorts of beaded motifs ap
pliqued on the brim or on the side of
the crown.
Crewal embroidery forms another
effective decoration on black velvet
hats and. promises to be quite popu
lar. Cut jet and nickel buckles are
also much used. Valvet is the favor
ite material for covering, but satin and
novelty plushes, as well as pressed felt,
will be used extensively.
The wide, undulating brim sailor hat
is a stunning model and is popular. It
is made of black velvet, with a shirred
facing of silk on the upper brim and
is & simple hat. The trimming consists
of a fancy feather arranged diagonal
ly across the front and caught In the
center with a black jet buckle. Next
to the turban, the sailor is the popu
lar hat for this season.
Waist Line Is Shown.
As set forth in previous articles, the
growing tendency to emphasize close
fitting lines in dresses and suits is in
dicated by a curve at the waist line
and greater fullness of the skirt. This
is exemplified in some of the new mod
els shown, one of which consists of a
smart suit of dark laurel green broad
cloth. The jacket defines the figure
more definitely than has been the
vogue for some seasons, though the
tendency is not carried to extremes.
The closing Is in single-breasted
style and may be carried up to the
neck, with a round collar as a finish,
or the neck may be slightly open, with
a fiat collar.
Velvet suits are chic this season and
have an individuality all their own. A
pretty model is a blue velvet made in
military style, with broad belt, much
silk braiding and fancy buttons, a high
collar with fur finish, Fleeves are long
and fur trimmed, coat is lined with silk
messaline and it has the flaring skirt.
A simple yet stylish frock that ap
peals to a miss or college girl, for it
is all in one piece, calls for a heavy
weave of tussore silk in its natural hue
of pale brown, with deeper golden
brown velvet collar, cuffs and trim
mings. The three-gored skirt hangs
with a fraceful flare, the pocket on
skirt is also trimmed with velvet and
buttons are used to finish the termina
tion of the straps of trimming on the
skirt and blouse waist. One excellent
thing about this model is that it can
be made equally as well of wool, silk,
linen or cotton fabrics and is attractive
when made of the heavier materials,
trimmed with velvet or velvet ribbon.
It may also be trimmed with rows of
braid if it is made of silk or wool, but
whatever trimming is used on the skirt
must be repeated on the blouse or
waist-
One of the prettiest ways for finish
ing sleeves now is to trim them with
braid and button the lower p rtlon
close to the arm. Uraid-loo"p buttons
are exceedingly smart looking and fur
nish all the trimming that most sleeves
require. Silk and wool poplin are ex
cellent materials for this model, wita
velvet ribton and braids for the trim
mings.' One of the best-looking coats of this
season is made of heavy tan autowara
cloth. The back is made all in one
piece and hangs In loose folds down
the back from the collar. The shoul
ders are of the extreme raglan style,
with the seam Just above the elbow
and running down the sides of the
front almost to the waistline. There is
a belt which runs from the side seams
and can be fastened either in front or
across the back. The collar is cut
high and stands away from the neck.
This collar and also the coat are but
toned with large black leather-covered
buttons. There are two nice deep
pockets, a fact which will please your
escort, whose pocketj have in the past
been made to bulge with extra hand
kerchiefs, purse and sundry articles
useful to womankind. This coat,
while rather an extreme model, will
be found especially nice and loose
enough to wear over a suit when mo
toring. It is also comfortable and
smart.
Skirts Must Be
"E" 1 1 T T-r
A-un is ra
Short and
shion"s Mandate
THE manner in which one follows
the styles. Just now, depends upon
which exponent of the styles one
elects to simulate Doucet, Doeulllet,
Cheruit, Paquln, Worth, Drecoll, Ber
nard, Matial et Armand, Lanvln each
has his or her own method of express
ing the current mode, and each expres
sion is perfection until one sees the
next.
And what is tne current mode, that
so many different artists can express
it in so many ways? Is there any
definite rule or regulation which the
chic until the final limitation of ab
breviation is reached. This line comes
between knee and ankle and for the
street costume is drawn just below the
top of a trim buttoned boot: for the
evening costume with which slippers
are worn, a trifle higher.
. And skirts must be full another
fashion mandate. The fullness, if you
do not like the effect of flare, may be
controlled in pleats, cordings or folds
held down by hidden elastics. If you
dislike both flare and flatness, there
are draperies which lift the skirt co-
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t IIIIIINIIIInlllllllllllllllllllllJllinA Tfci V X have an individuality all their own. A II - if - - J
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V "m V S
this mode of concealing the deformity.
In later days the fops transcended
the belles in their mania for this lux
ury. Beau Brummell and the Count
IVOrsay each used to wear six differ
ent pairs daily, and never put on the
same pair twice.
Softness and whiteness of the hands
re prized by every beauty, and by
many who don't pretend to be beauties.
They can be obtained by softening the
water with a little borax, and rubbing
night and morning with pure olive oil.
Hand manners signify culture and
breeding. Refinement is indicated by
both the appearance and touch of the
hand. Natures are at once revealed by
a handshake, the firm, hard grip indi
cating a sincerity and alertness of
thought and action: the moist, fat.
Pinching handsnake indicating a vact
latlng. nervous temperament: the life
less, dry fingers. Just touching an
other's and quickly withdrawn, indi
cating a mean, selfish disposition. The
limp hand that seems boneless and
lifeless in your hand is characterless.
Its owner has no opinions or decisions,
but depends upon someone to obey. The
close clasp that lingers denotes real
character and friendship, dependable
and faithful.
Hand expression is very important.
The twitching hands of nervousness are
Irritating. The hands that must pull
or tear or twirl things are annoying.
Hands that clinch at things -and rest
titles of water and at least three pints
between each meal.
Anxious. Prophetstown, 111. Take
enough pure peroxide of hydrogen to
wet the hair and add a few drops of
ammonia, which will bleach the hair
and make it less conspicuous.
Constance. Portland, Or. What
you probably need for your face is a
good astringent wash. Take a half
pint bottle and Into it pat one and one
half ounces of cucumber Juice, half
ever this year and they blend particu
larly well with deep-pile fabrics such
as plush, corduroy, the new check and
novelty plaids, etc. and give a stimu
lating effect when placed on them.
Coney, opossum, fox. beaver, Hudson
seal, marten and white Iceland fox fur
are some of the most popular.
Practicability ! Rule.
Perhaps one of the most convincing
and satisfactory things of all Is that
most of the garments shown this aea-
quettlshly at one side or the other, oi
even at the back, to show a bit more
of the footwear than the general law
of skirt lengths prescribes. If you
adore flare and admit that the full,
gathered skirt, rippling out at the edge,
has a saucy and youthful style, you
may secure all the flare you choose
by aid of the new 20th century hoop,
a contrivance made of featherbone,
which Is so much like an old-fashioned
hoop that it may be called the hoop's
first cousin, reduced to almost no
weight at all like a modern belle who
resembles her great-grandma. .
Boned Bodices la Again.
The natural result of flaring skirts
was the tight bodice. Impossible for
the bodice to blouse artistically and
still look well with a skirt that hides
the contour of hips and limbs. With
the saucily swinging, short.' full skirt,
a close bodice was imperative, and
Fashion, sighing a long sigh of regret
n t thft thnneht of abandoning comfort-
amateur In dress can adhere to and aDle BtraiKnt fronts loose at the dia
sUll be completely chic In all essentials? ph,., na8 finally yielded to the in
To be sure there is; and M you examine evitable. Thia Fall the corset is tight
all the fascinating Paris creations or er than ,t was aDove the waistline, and
as many of them as come within the perhaps not quite as tight below,
scope of your vision you will find cer- it elves what Paris calls "an illusion
tain well defined style mandates gov- of hips," and also as trim and tidy
ernine them all. a little waistline as is possible after
a aecaae ot no uciub
Skirts Short, Coats Loager.
Bodices
fitrori rwfr thin new corset- take unto
For instance, the first and foremost themselves darts and seams that have
regulation is the short skirt. No skirt not been present in bodices these many
that falls oelow the ankles may be con- years; and seams are provided with
sidered chic At least, it cannot look short lengths of featherbone to give
chic, and each Inch further shortness the desirable "neat fit"' that is once
above the ankle adds an inch of extra more fashionable.