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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 31, 1915)
4. THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 31. 1915. 1 rn JTv m .. - - ' Says . '. . ' : ' fr '''ft' Beauty Wins Through Idle ness, but Your Hands Can Be Pleasant Company if Taught Good Manners WE SEE many fine women who take more pride in their beauti ful hands than in any other fea tures of their makeup. Those who are under the law of toll and bear the Indelible prints of handi craft cannot perhaps appear at all times with perfect hands. But they can rest in the comfort of knowing: that "those divine tools," as Aristotle called them, are breadwinners and have uses In the world beyond the ordinary. An eminent scientist has asserted that by the Inspection of the hands he can tell, in nine cases out of ten, the avocation of the owner. Every trade and every employment, except the treadmill, calls for some assistance from the bands. Lifting; heavy objects, sweeping-, washing:, scrubbing-, when long: continued, especially during growth, destroy the admired shape and contour. The hand of little use not only has the daintiest touch but the daintiest form. The fingers are round and ta pering:, the joints are small, the skin is smooth and the lines shallow. Com pare such a one with the hands of a washerwoman and note how beauty wins through idleness. Even the lighter employments de form to some extent this complex mem ber. In writing-, if the pen or pencil Is held awkwardly or in a cramped po sition, it will soon leave a slight dis figurement. A too small thimble will distort the finger. Rings are often left on the fingers until they are half buried in a deep crease, and it is next to Impossible to remove ehem. I know many instances where the hand has become puffy and ill-shaped by wearing gloves that are fastened too tightly at the wrists. It is needless to emphasize the im portance of the use of gloves. The court ladies in olden times prob ably could never boast of their pretty hands, for the fashion of wearing gloves with full dress was first intro duced in England by Anne Boleyn, the unfortunate Queen of Henry VIII. Gloves were not at all popular at first, and the great ladles of the court, jealous that the country girl who was made Queen should outstrip them In the arts of beauty, circulated the report that she had six fingers and adopted like a clenched fist upon the arms of chairs. poundVng the furniture while talking, are the hands of a tyrant. The poor, desperate hands that clasp and unclasp continually denote a weak and uncertain mind. Deep thinkers sometimes mark up tablecloths, tear the floral decorations at table, and draw imaginary geomet rical figures upon the cloth with fork and knife or spoon, or fold up napkins in odd shapes, keeping the hostess In a fear of dread lest they ruin the whole dinner. Love brings out qualities of the hands that are unknown to those who have not loved, and forgotten by those who have ceased- to love. The touch of sympathy, the clasp of loyalty, the touch of fear and the pressure of jeal ous repulsion are a language of su preme poetry. Truth often lurks in the pressure of the hands when the lips are trying to deceive. Be honest with your hands, and whether they are worn and disfigured by work, or beautiful and symmetrical from idleness, let them express the sympathy that you feel and the sin cerity you know. They can be beauti ful in cleanliness and care. They can be pleasant company if taught good manners, and they can be true emis saries of love and friendship if allowed to express what is in the heart by a touch. Hands should never be hard and stilted in movement, but graceful and easy of motion. Gestures are detractors to beauty of expression. More force can be ex pressed by a pressure of the hand of a lover than in all the words spoken and all the language of the eyes. (Copyright. 1915. by Lillian Russell.) Lillian Russell's Beauty Answers GH. To make a lotion to correct the . red and oil condition of the skin add 15 grains of tannic acid to five ounces of camphor water. This should be used several times during the day. In addition you should drink quan- fill the bottle with elder flower wa ter, add one ounce of eau de cologne and shake well. Then add one-half, ounce of simple tincture of benzoin, shake slightly and fill with elder flow er water. Apply with a soft sponge night and morning. E. H. Massage the busts gently night and morning with spirits of cam phor. Exercise with chest weights, row, swim, box and fence. Vigorous exercise of any sort which involves the arm and chest muscles will help you to get rid of the superflous flesh. Miss Millie M. U.. Stony Plains. Canada You might try this lotion for the freckles: Lactic acid, four ounces; glycerine, two ounces, and orange flower water, one ounce. Alice, Frazee, Minn. Your queries require too detailed a reply to be an swered here. I will be glad to give you the information you wish if you will send me a stamped and addressed envelope for the formulas. FUR AND BRAID VIE AS FALL SUIT TRIMMINGS Season's Fashions Have Touch of Simplicity and Practicability Is Carried Out in All Wearing AppareL Motoring Coats Made of Heavy Material. At.t. along the streets of the retail section of any of our large Amer ican cities the shop windows, with their lovely women in new street and party array, arc picture wooing the shopper to enter and view the glories within doors. On all floors of the shops nothing is talked about but new lines, new fabrics and new trim mings that show the dividing lines be tween the Fall fashions and those that have gone before. There will be a great deal of tinsel in trimmings, much embroidery in the way of motif, fur on everything and good fur, all things considered much broadcloth, velours and chiffon velvets for street suits and much silk and transparent crepe for indoor wear; many ostrich tips, veilings rampant, gingerbread perforations in shoe trim mings, and, as before stated, fur trim ming has a great vogue this season, many of the suits made of broadcloth, whipcords, velours, etc, are trimmed with fur instead of the also popular braids. Fur is the ideal trimming for wom en's Winter garments; besides being rich and smart in appearance, it is so comfortable and suggestive of warmth on the cold days. It is a matter of conjecture which trimming, fur or braid will become the greatest favor ite during this season; certain it is that furs are more lavishly used than son are practicable; there is not much folly in fashions to shout at in this year 1915, thanks to woes beyond the seas. Original ideas in millinery are usual ly as hard to And as in other fields. The imported models cost what the Initiated think fabulous prices, because of the original ideas embodied in them. Copies of such models, equally as well made, can be had, however, at reason able rates, some shops offering beauti ful copies of Importations as low as $15. in velvet, gold and silver lace and other combinations. However, indica tions point to simplicity of shape and trimmings In the new hats. Paris favors the turban hat and scores of the individual examples of this mode are on display, in types ex quisitely appropriate to carry out the silhouette of this Winter and Autumn. The charming diversity of their design is expressed in a varied assemblage, which Is the keynote of their appeal to all ages. There are turbans for the matron of conservative fancy and tur bans of bewitching coqfuetry for the maid in her teens. For every occa sion a turban may be worn correctly, commending itself above all previous modes for general practicality. There are trim turbans for motoring, high turbans for formal -near, velvet toques for afternoon, turbans with a wing or a bow for street or calling wear. Hat Stylex Varied. There are many other small hats shown also Colonials, tricones and high - crowned models In typical va riety, but the dominant ideas are ex pressed in two styles, small, chic, close fitting turbans or toques and the sailor, the newest type of which is a sailor with drooping or undulating brim In stead of the straight brim worn in seasons past, and many novel slashed brim effects are being shown among the extreme models. Fancy ostrich tips trim many smart hats and there are all sorts of beaded motifs ap pliqued on the brim or on the side of the crown. Crewal embroidery forms another effective decoration on black velvet hats and. promises to be quite popu lar. Cut jet and nickel buckles are also much used. Valvet is the favor ite material for covering, but satin and novelty plushes, as well as pressed felt, will be used extensively. The wide, undulating brim sailor hat is a stunning model and is popular. It is made of black velvet, with a shirred facing of silk on the upper brim and is & simple hat. The trimming consists of a fancy feather arranged diagonal ly across the front and caught In the center with a black jet buckle. Next to the turban, the sailor is the popu lar hat for this season. Waist Line Is Shown. As set forth in previous articles, the growing tendency to emphasize close fitting lines in dresses and suits is in dicated by a curve at the waist line and greater fullness of the skirt. This is exemplified in some of the new mod els shown, one of which consists of a smart suit of dark laurel green broad cloth. The jacket defines the figure more definitely than has been the vogue for some seasons, though the tendency is not carried to extremes. The closing Is in single-breasted style and may be carried up to the neck, with a round collar as a finish, or the neck may be slightly open, with a fiat collar. Velvet suits are chic this season and have an individuality all their own. A pretty model is a blue velvet made in military style, with broad belt, much silk braiding and fancy buttons, a high collar with fur finish, Fleeves are long and fur trimmed, coat is lined with silk messaline and it has the flaring skirt. A simple yet stylish frock that ap peals to a miss or college girl, for it is all in one piece, calls for a heavy weave of tussore silk in its natural hue of pale brown, with deeper golden brown velvet collar, cuffs and trim mings. The three-gored skirt hangs with a fraceful flare, the pocket on skirt is also trimmed with velvet and buttons are used to finish the termina tion of the straps of trimming on the skirt and blouse waist. One excellent thing about this model is that it can be made equally as well of wool, silk, linen or cotton fabrics and is attractive when made of the heavier materials, trimmed with velvet or velvet ribbon. It may also be trimmed with rows of braid if it is made of silk or wool, but whatever trimming is used on the skirt must be repeated on the blouse or waist- One of the prettiest ways for finish ing sleeves now is to trim them with braid and button the lower p rtlon close to the arm. Uraid-loo"p buttons are exceedingly smart looking and fur nish all the trimming that most sleeves require. Silk and wool poplin are ex cellent materials for this model, wita velvet ribton and braids for the trim mings.' One of the best-looking coats of this season is made of heavy tan autowara cloth. The back is made all in one piece and hangs In loose folds down the back from the collar. The shoul ders are of the extreme raglan style, with the seam Just above the elbow and running down the sides of the front almost to the waistline. There is a belt which runs from the side seams and can be fastened either in front or across the back. The collar is cut high and stands away from the neck. This collar and also the coat are but toned with large black leather-covered buttons. There are two nice deep pockets, a fact which will please your escort, whose pocketj have in the past been made to bulge with extra hand kerchiefs, purse and sundry articles useful to womankind. This coat, while rather an extreme model, will be found especially nice and loose enough to wear over a suit when mo toring. It is also comfortable and smart. Skirts Must Be "E" 1 1 T T-r A-un is ra Short and shion"s Mandate THE manner in which one follows the styles. Just now, depends upon which exponent of the styles one elects to simulate Doucet, Doeulllet, Cheruit, Paquln, Worth, Drecoll, Ber nard, Matial et Armand, Lanvln each has his or her own method of express ing the current mode, and each expres sion is perfection until one sees the next. And what is tne current mode, that so many different artists can express it in so many ways? Is there any definite rule or regulation which the chic until the final limitation of ab breviation is reached. This line comes between knee and ankle and for the street costume is drawn just below the top of a trim buttoned boot: for the evening costume with which slippers are worn, a trifle higher. . And skirts must be full another fashion mandate. The fullness, if you do not like the effect of flare, may be controlled in pleats, cordings or folds held down by hidden elastics. If you dislike both flare and flatness, there are draperies which lift the skirt co- .,-f: ' ''lllllllllllilllllllll t'lTat sre mo-vVshirrd Vha'u .-OL i - "1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 rW A. N(-TT -. - . jri i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ti 1 1 1 1 1 it 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 tf i ii ii it n v ' i . . ... . . - f f m 1 1 1 1 1 1. . - .v - . . -r jt t IIIIIINIIIInlllllllllllllllllllllJllinA Tfci V X have an individuality all their own. A II - if - - J vJlllllllllllllllllIlM tSvi I - pretty model is a blue velvet made in J , - It v" -" -'if' A -' j I " -"U nl rf-. ,, V K X military style, with broad belt, much -- rt , -'jf-' - - V "m V S this mode of concealing the deformity. In later days the fops transcended the belles in their mania for this lux ury. Beau Brummell and the Count IVOrsay each used to wear six differ ent pairs daily, and never put on the same pair twice. Softness and whiteness of the hands re prized by every beauty, and by many who don't pretend to be beauties. They can be obtained by softening the water with a little borax, and rubbing night and morning with pure olive oil. Hand manners signify culture and breeding. Refinement is indicated by both the appearance and touch of the hand. Natures are at once revealed by a handshake, the firm, hard grip indi cating a sincerity and alertness of thought and action: the moist, fat. Pinching handsnake indicating a vact latlng. nervous temperament: the life less, dry fingers. Just touching an other's and quickly withdrawn, indi cating a mean, selfish disposition. The limp hand that seems boneless and lifeless in your hand is characterless. Its owner has no opinions or decisions, but depends upon someone to obey. The close clasp that lingers denotes real character and friendship, dependable and faithful. Hand expression is very important. The twitching hands of nervousness are Irritating. The hands that must pull or tear or twirl things are annoying. Hands that clinch at things -and rest titles of water and at least three pints between each meal. Anxious. Prophetstown, 111. Take enough pure peroxide of hydrogen to wet the hair and add a few drops of ammonia, which will bleach the hair and make it less conspicuous. Constance. Portland, Or. What you probably need for your face is a good astringent wash. Take a half pint bottle and Into it pat one and one half ounces of cucumber Juice, half ever this year and they blend particu larly well with deep-pile fabrics such as plush, corduroy, the new check and novelty plaids, etc. and give a stimu lating effect when placed on them. Coney, opossum, fox. beaver, Hudson seal, marten and white Iceland fox fur are some of the most popular. Practicability ! Rule. Perhaps one of the most convincing and satisfactory things of all Is that most of the garments shown this aea- quettlshly at one side or the other, oi even at the back, to show a bit more of the footwear than the general law of skirt lengths prescribes. If you adore flare and admit that the full, gathered skirt, rippling out at the edge, has a saucy and youthful style, you may secure all the flare you choose by aid of the new 20th century hoop, a contrivance made of featherbone, which Is so much like an old-fashioned hoop that it may be called the hoop's first cousin, reduced to almost no weight at all like a modern belle who resembles her great-grandma. . Boned Bodices la Again. The natural result of flaring skirts was the tight bodice. Impossible for the bodice to blouse artistically and still look well with a skirt that hides the contour of hips and limbs. With the saucily swinging, short.' full skirt, a close bodice was imperative, and Fashion, sighing a long sigh of regret n t thft thnneht of abandoning comfort- amateur In dress can adhere to and aDle BtraiKnt fronts loose at the dia sUll be completely chic In all essentials? ph,., na8 finally yielded to the in To be sure there is; and M you examine evitable. Thia Fall the corset is tight all the fascinating Paris creations or er than ,t was aDove the waistline, and as many of them as come within the perhaps not quite as tight below, scope of your vision you will find cer- it elves what Paris calls "an illusion tain well defined style mandates gov- of hips," and also as trim and tidy ernine them all. a little waistline as is possible after a aecaae ot no uciub Skirts Short, Coats Loager. Bodices fitrori rwfr thin new corset- take unto For instance, the first and foremost themselves darts and seams that have regulation is the short skirt. No skirt not been present in bodices these many that falls oelow the ankles may be con- years; and seams are provided with sidered chic At least, it cannot look short lengths of featherbone to give chic, and each Inch further shortness the desirable "neat fit"' that is once above the ankle adds an inch of extra more fashionable.
