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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 31, 1915)
' THE SUNDAY OREGONTAN. PORTLAND, OCTOBER 31, 1915.
DRESSY AFTERNOON COAT PARTAKES
OF FLARE OF SKIRT WITH POCKETS
Evening Wraps Are of Velvet, Rich Brocade and Soft Satin Nocturne in Wonderful Shades and Are Extremely
Voluminous in Actual Amount of Fabric Great-Grandfather's Overcoat ' Modernized.
11 1 1 111 H',
THERE is a dressy sort of coat for
wear with elaborate afternoon
frocks. The material is a new
velour de laine and the color a lovely
shade of rose with which the beaver
fur trimmin? harmonizes pleasingly.
The coat pockets, placed high, on the
waist rather than on the skirt of the
garment, are a notable detail. Below
these pockets occur most of the full
ness of the skirt portion, and waist
and skirt are joined simply by a cord
ed piping. The rich coat is a tritle
shorter than the frock of pussy willow
silk which reveals dainty dancing boots
with buttoned tops.
Though the new evening coats of
velvet, rich brocade and soft satin
nocturne in wonderful shades are ex
tremely voluminous In actual amount
of fabric, the fabric is managed with
such skill and art that the long, grace
ful lines tlo not emphasize the amount
of material used. Here is a modeia
theater wrap of jade colored velvet,
with curiously draped sleeves from
which depend huge silver tassels. The
wrap is lined with white goldenrod
satin and has a collar of silver fox.
The modern girl's great-grandfather I
wore a coat much like the smart mod
els she affects this Autumn. He called
It a "greatcoat," and if he lived out
in the country, likelv he wore, also a
roonskin cap something like this know
ins beaver turban his great-granddaughter
has taken a fancy to. The
roat is ntltlt of blue and frpt'n wnn
. plaid and has a military sash of fringe
trimmed silk. The exaggerat.-d but
smart collar is revived from the Gir
ondist period. The little cap of beaver
felt is trimmed only with a buckle and
narrow grosgrain ribbon.
To prevent strawberries and other
fruits you can from forming mold put
r layer of absorbent cotton in the
mouth of each jar or can. Any mold
that may form will cling to the cotton.
leaving the fruit clean.
The odor of kerosene lamps can be
stopped by putting one teaspoonful of
fine table salt into each lamp. The salt
should be changed once a month.
The soft silk or net fichu is excellent
for wear with dark street dresses.
arate coats thiS Fall may be included evening wraps defy naming in black
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COATS DESIGNED IN PARIS FOR USE
IN AMERICA KEEP TRIM APPEARANCE
Russian Bodice, Ripple Skirt, Belt and Huge Muffler Collar Designed for Every Winter Occasion Paquin's
Leather Coat Creates Sensation Evening Wraps Radiate Brilliant Color Mixed Worsted Used for Motoring.
serge, gabardine, troadcloth, whipcord,
English and Scotch wool mixtures, zib
eline. corduroy, gloveskin, velour de
laine. velvet, brocades of various sorts,
faille classique and satin bendel the
last named fabrics for evening coats.
There is also a new velvet striped
pussy willow ailk which - has been
fashioned into stunning theater and
dancing wraps. Velvet evening wraps
are gorgeous affairs, with their volu
minous breadths of material arranged
nevertheless to fall in the long, slender
lines of elegance their immense tas
sels and ornaments of gold and silver
cord and their collars of rich fur.
Kolinsky, silver fox. sable, beaver
and ermine are' first favorites for trim
ming velvet and silk evening wraps.
These sumptuous wraps are also sump
tuously lined, but though the wraps
themselves are brighter in hue than
wraps have ever been before, linings
have become softer and more delicate.
Flower-printed pussy willow is used
in limousine coats and in theater coats
of velvet and velour de laine; wraps
for the evening have linings of satin
debutante or satin nocturne in exquis
ite pastel colorings. -
Some of the shades of fashionable
and white chirography. They are col
ors that never were Been on sea or
land have perhaps in a sunset sky.
Flame velvet is the material of a
Cheruit coat trimmed with gold braid
and sable. A jade green velvet wrap
with gold tassels as big as those on a
royal canopy comes 'rom another cou
turier. Azure velvet, lapis lazuli,
emerald, petunia, fuchsia, marigold
these and other colors will lend won
derful brilliance to social gatherings
wheer rich wraps are on view.
To get back to everyday, practical
topcoats, which is like dragging one's
self away, so fascinating are the lovely
evening wraps, there is a new cape
coat or as one's great grandfather
would have said, a "great-coat" of
blue and green wool plaid, which will
entrance the girl looking for a sensa
tion in coatwear. This coat has a rip
ple line, with raglan sleeves and a
wide, soft sash of blue pussy willow
silk trimmed with fringe. This sash
knots low about the waistline and just
over it falls a circular capo of the
plaidf There is also a mammoth muf
fler collar in the style of the Giron
dists. with bone buttons up the front.
HOT WATER BAG NOT
GOOD FOR TOOTHACHE
Courses of Pains Are Traced and. First Aid Treatment for Common Ail
ments Given by Dental Surgeon Ingalls, of Army.
BT RAMOND E. INGALLS. D. X. S.
(First Lieutenant, Denial Surgeon, U. S. A.)
THE unfortunate person who is
awakened during the small hours
of a cold and frosty morning with
WHEN Taris evolved the new coat
styles for Autumn she had to
keep one fact in mind: that
American women simply will not ac
cept fashions that make them clumsy
of figure Americans particularly ob
ject to modes that lend bulk over the
hips. This they will submit to in
dainty dance frocks of picturesque
character when bouffancy is achieved
with diaphanous fabric as witness the
furore over dance frocks with quanti
ties of tulle lotjped up over "winds'" of
crinoline but coats that distend them
selves over the hips, American maids
and matrons abjure. So Paris, who is
relying tnese days on the business of
patrons across the water, had to keep
American prejudices in mind and the
new coats, cut from yards and yards
of material, are still expressive of
slenderness and svelte lines.
The first cold of October brought out
smart Winter coats in great number.
Kvery woman who took a train out of
the Grand Central station or the big
Thirty-third-street terminus for the
second October week-end. carried over
her arm- or allowed maid or railroad
porter to carry a stunning new coat
tor motor or other wear in the coun
try. These coats were an interesting
study U in themselves, quite aside
front charming new Fall hats. ' fur-
trimmed Fall suits and the very latest
thing in buttoned footwear.
There were coats of mixed worsted
stuff sturdy affairs, belted, be-pock-eted
and be-buttoned; "there were
dainty coats of velour and corduroy,
fur-trimmed. Of this sort was a model
which accompanied a pretty girl
dressed in a short-skirted, belted tail
l'iur of beige gabardine, touched with
beaver at th j collar. Her hat was a
tricorne of pressed beaver felt veiled
with a new taupe, lattice mesh, veiling,
and her buttoned boots had uppers of
beige cloth. But the coat was the no
table item of her pet-up. It was of
fawn-colored orduroy with a broad
welted weave and the lining was of
fawn-colored pussy willow taffeta.
Narrow strips of the corduroy cut
cross-wise of the material and flanked
by narrow strips of moleskin, bordered
the cuffs and ran all the way down
the front. The ccat collar was of mole
skin and was almost ' the size and
height of a baby's hat box. Undoubted
ly it rose about its wearer's ears when
the coat was donned.
A sensation of the openings in Paris
was the leather coat of Paquin. This
garment, which fell between knee and
the hip in full ripples, had stitched slot
seams that ran clear up into the collar,
giving the coat a ' tapering effect- at
the shoulder and a wide flare in the
skirt. At the lower edge was a band
of dark fur. Cuffs and collar were of
fur also, and on the front was an amaz
ing arrangement of braid loops and
buttons in military effect.
Saury Swine Kept.
But this is the extreme style the
top notch of fashion's originality in
coatwear for the season. Coats, as a
rule, are charming and wearable, and
they are youthful, too, with Uieir saucy
swine and flare above the skirt. A
few coats cover the entire frock, but a
smarter kind is given when the coat
fal's a little below the knees and be
low it the short skirt reveals the but
toned walking boot. The Russian ten
dency is strong in all the new coats, or
in seven-eighths of them at least. This
tendency is shown in the side-closing,
in the belt and in the full-skirted,
close-waisted outline the Cossack sil
houette. Yokes are much used to give
the desirable flat line at the front, the
fullness.' if any, coming below this flat
yoke. Collars, of course, are enormous;
they resemble young muffs, but they
have a smartness of their own, now
that t"ie eye has become used to them.
Most of these big moffler collars are
made m that they may be turned down,
away from the throat if desired.
I. - Among the favored materials for sep-
toothache will rush for the water
bag, fill it with hot water, crawl back
between the warm folds of the bed
with the bag at his cheek, and continue
to suffer -until morning. It Is rignuy
so; for this metnoa ot treatment
In the first place, why is a tootnacne.'
There are several brands. The com
mon, garden variety, technically known
as pulpitis or acute pulpitis, is the un
sparing type that mostly interests us.
or rather disinterests us, especially
near the termination of a pleasant
dream. As the name implies, pulpitis
s an inflammation of the pulp, or
nerve." as this much-despised little
appendage is generally incorrectly des-
gnated. The term only partially covers
the contents of the root canals. Add
the blood vessels, connecting tissue, et
cetera, and we have the dental pulp.
It is because'the pulp is encased within
the hard dental or bony walls of the
tooth, with no room for expansion when
nf lamed, that the tooth aches. the
pesky little nerve fibers of the pulp are
consequently impinged on, and they
quickly make their troubles known by
telegraphing it through the main trunk
line to the brain. The same amount of
inflammation on the hand, for instance,
would scarcely be noticed, as far as
pain is concerned.
Irritation Is Cause.
This leads us to the question of in
flammation. What is.it? The con
dition is simply diagnosed by the omni
present symptom of heat, pain, red-
and swelling. The sufferer will
argue that they are all there plus a
ittle more. But we cannot have in
flammation without irritation, a maxim
applying in dentistry as well as medi
cine. All pathological or diseased con
ditions may be traced tack to a cause
medical science is baffled in some
cases. However, the cause of our pres
ent trouble is this: The micro-organisms
or germs of decay have disinte
grated a goodly portion of the crown
of the tooth, and have gradually worked
their way, or rather multiplied them
selves, in through the microscopic
tubules of the dentine to the pulp. This,
then, is the irritant. Obviously, the
pulp does not take kindly to the intrusion.
Nature provides two different means
of protecting the dental pulp a deposit
of secondary dentine within the pulp
chamber and root canals as decay ad
vances; and an increased amount of
blood, especially the white blood cor
puscles to destroy or carry off the
micro-organisms of infection. Neither
stops the process of decay; they only
stave off the inevitable more serious
Hot Water Increases Pain.
All four of the symptoms of inflam
mation given are due either directly
or indirectly to the phenomena of
hyperemia that is. to an increased
amount of blood to the infected area.
The hot-water bag at the cheek, there
fore, only acts as an added stimulus
intensifying the pain by causing still
more blood to rush to the part.
Perhaps the one afflicted with the
midnight toothache well remembers
that in walking the floor some relief
was afforded. This is due to the less
amount of blood in the head when in
the upright instead of the prone po
sition. as when one is lying in bed.
What Is needed is some counter irri
tant to draw the blood to a part re
mots from the affected area, or an al
leviation of the pain by direct medical
application. If the water bag must be
used, fill it with cold water, although
little relief may be expected from this
Cold in the early stages of inflam
mation will counteract the blood ves
sels, retarding the growth and multi
plication of micro-organisms. Consider
able benefit will probably be given by
placing the feet in hot water for ten
minutes to start more circulation in the
distant extremities. However, if an
inhibitory action to the pain is derived
in this manner it is apt to be only tern
porary. the trouble returning shortly.
Local medical treatment should also
be resorted to. The mouth is cleansed
with warm water, or. preferably.
tablespoonful of peroxide of hydrogen.
full strength, provided this article is in
the family .medicine closet. The object
is to remove all debris possible from
the cavity of the decayed tooth. Tooth
picks and pellets of cotton rolled on
the end of a match or toothpick will
assist in performing the toilet of the
OIIh Allay Pain.
Next, it is dried with pellets of ab
sorbent cotton and may be kept free
from saliva long enough to insert the
medicine by placing a roll or twist o
cotton about the size of the index
finger on both sides of the tooth. All
this preparation is essential in order
to be sure that the drug reaches and is
effective on the inflamed tissue. Debris
in the cavity will only act as a hinder
lng barrier to prevent the action of the
drug, while the saliva dilutes it. A
number of the essential oils, as oil o
cloves and oil of wintergreen, usually
win allay tne pain. Eugenol, an aro
matic phenol, procured from oil of
cloves and other essential oils, is bet
ter. A still more effective remedy, em
ployed by most dentists, is the prepara
tion of Dr. G. V. Black, one of the lead
lng dental authorities. It is known
Black s one-two-three, and may b
obtained at ony drugstore at small cost.
The ingredients and proportions are
Oil of cassia, 1 part; phenol crystals, 2
parts; oil of wintergreen, 3 parts.
A small pellet of cotton about the
size of a pinhead is saturated with the
preparation and placed in the achin
tooth cavity. The balance of the cavity
is filled lightly with more cotton. Too
much of the medicine applied would
cause it to run out on the gums and
tongue. It acts as a cautery where it
touches, leaving annoying burns.
Asperln May Be Taken.
It is never advisable to take drugs
internally for dental troubles if local
means will control the pain. In cas
this should fail, eight grains of asperln
for an adult may be resorted to
with gratifying results. This drug
probably the least harmful of any, and
is sold without prescription at all drug,
stores. It may be purchased in pow
der form, tablets or capsules.
The - dento-alveolar abscess, lncor
Evarp Nnmii fa an extra vmht
nstplr as corati. For the
hyemnc feature, which aire
. 70a pay aoUung extra
The Trademark NEMO Protects You
The supporting, reducing and auto-massage service
of Nemo Corsets is due to the Nemo patented con
struction the free play of the bands end atrape aujainst the body.
Imitations are made with straps and bends of similar appearance, sewed
on to the corset, and therefore IMMOVABLE. These, of course, have no
supporting, reducing or euto-masaeje value, and only add to the weight
and bulk of the corset. Look for the trade-mark NEMO. That is
your protection egaintt useless imitations.
rectly referred to as an "ulcerated
loom. next to pulpitis, is the most
frequent cause of tooth trouble. It
improperly called ulcerated tooth for
the reason that the trouble is Just
beyond the end of the root and not
in the tooth itself, except that the
Infected putrescent or dead pulp of
the tooth is the irritant. It is not
ulcerated. An ulcer is an open eore,
while the abscess is enclosed.
There are two forms of abscesses
the blind and fistulous. The latter will
not be discussed, as there is generally
not enough soreness to require first
aid treatment, although it should have
immediate attention by the dentist, as
pus continuously discharges from the
fistulous opening, which, of course.
inds its way into the digestive tract.
The blind abscess sometimes becomes
very painful. The trouble arises im
mediately at the end of the root in
the alveolus, or socket of the tooth
The peridental membrane surrounding
tne root becomes inflamed, and the
slightest pressure on the tooth is like
touching a boil. Pus is soon formed.
a short time it will cause an open
ng through the bony wall of the
socket, and a swelling will start a
Needle W in Help.
If it is impossible to consult a den
tist at once, some means should be
undertaken to clean out the decay and
lodgment of food from the cavity and
make a vent through the root canals
to divert the flow of pus and crowd-
ng or gases. This applies only to
the earlier stages before swelling has
taken place. The tooth should be
cleansed as stated before, and with a
needle an opening should be forced
through the cavity into the pulp. There
need be no fear of ain in driving the
needle into the "nerve." for it is im
possible to have an nbscess and stil!
have a vital pulp. If the effort is suc
cessful; relief will be felt in two or
three minutes. Any medicine placed in
the cavity will only make matters
worse, defeating the object sought
drainage. If swelling has started and
there is no dentist available, the
quicker the abscess points or comes to
nead and breaks the better. This
may be hastened by hot applications
on the cheek and by painting the gums
witn tincture oi iodine.
How may the layman differentiate
between a case of acute nulnltia nd
dento-alveolar abscess in order to ap
ply tne proper nrst-aid treatment? It
very simple. The former does not
have soreness or swelling in the region
of the apex of the root. Pressure on
the tooth itself not to b confiuxtri
with pressure in the cavity will not
cause pain. The latter has these symp
torrm. Sudden thermal chanses' partic
ularly those caused by hot water, hot
coffee, etc.. will intensify the pain of
pulpitis. in an aDscess case anything
hot or cold in the mouth 'is no more
perceptible than under normal conditions.
Another common complaint is erupt
ing teeth of children or the eruotinsr
wisdom teeth of adults. The difference
between the swelling around an erupt
ing tooth and that of an alveolar ab
. The "Self-Help" Nemo Won
derlift is the new and DIFFERENT
corset that uplifts and supports the vital
organs with no compression and no drag
' on the kidneys and spine.
It is an ULTRA-STYLISH corset
that also prevents and banishes the
ills of womankind.
Perhaps not evtry woman will find the Nemo
Wonderlift the most stylish, healthful and eom
" fortable corset ever made; but a majority mill.
Too many women sacrifice health for style. The
Nemo Wonderlift creates end preserves BOTH.
It is unlike any other corset a NEW IDEA,
perfectly worked out. Models for every figure:
654 lor short loll figure
. 555 for taller fall Moure
556 lor slender to medium
Til keep tkis corset ra tend the id tne heme!"
So say thousands of women when correctly fated
;n a Nemo Wonderlift Corset. There csn be no
stronger evidence of its superior style end eomfort.
Study the "Self-Help" Nemo Wonderlift!
Nemo Self-Reducing Corset No.322 is worn by millions
ui women wno re ruse to wear any other.
Of the dozen or more distinct Nemo Self
Reducing models, No. 322 seems to suit more
individuals than any other one model.
It is designed for women of full figure and
medium height, who require a moderate degree
of abdominal support and a high degree of figure
reduction. For such figures it produces the graceful lines
of present fashion with a decided improvement
in the figure and the utmost comfort.
322 for medium fall figures SO.50
326 for taller tail figures. fj
The Nemo Lssticurve-Bsck makes the corset
skirt pliable and easy.
Three distinct models of Nemo Self-Reducing
Corsets with Relief Bands, for three distinct
types of the full figure, bring grace and comfort
to women of heavier build. These are
Nemo Nos. 402. 403 and 40554.00
wfcs. w ana iua ?i.inj y
scess may be easily distinguished on
account of the flap of unabsorbed gum
over the tooth. It is under this fiap
wtfere debris and Infection gather and
inflammation is caused. The eruption
with the finger quite hard until it
bleeds. The pressure will force out
some of the infectious matter, and con
siderable depletion will be caused by
the flow of blood. The gums may then
of teeth is a physiological process and be painted with tincture of iodine, or,
not pathological that is. it Is natural
and not adiseased change. If it were
possible to keep the space between the
biting surface and the overlying gum
surgically clean, there would be no
Pains Are Varied.
Our treatment should be directed in
an attempt to bring this about." Wash
out the mouth with peroxide of, hydro
gen as previously stated. If a small
syringe is at hand, fill It with peroxide,
place the nozzle between the tooth and
overhanging gum, and, with consider
able force spray and' wash out the part.
Repeat several times daily. A- moro
radical treatment. but painful, is to
press the inflamed gum over the tooth
MUFFLER COLLAR SMART
AND EASILY MADE, TOO
Dainty Bit of New Neckwear Is Useful Little Affair Special Style and
Chic Added to Costume Tiny Fringe of Fur Used.
preferably, aconite and iodine, using a
half of the tincture of eacn.
There are several other kinds of pain
in the assortment of tooth and mouth
troubles, but their occurrence is in
frequent. We all curse our luck when
afflicted with a toothache. However,
that very thing the pain drives to
the dentist thousands of people who
would otherwise serenely allow their
teeth to go on to destruction. The
small minority who consult their den
tist regularly twice a year will prob
ably never have occasion to apply first
Fatlier and Son Burled Side by Side.
HAGERSTOWN. Md.. Oct. 22. The
double funeral of J. Karl Cromer and
young son. who died from injuries re
ceived recently when the motorcycle
which they were riding collided with
a Frostburg automobile, near Hagers
town, took place the other day. Father
and son were buried side by side In
Rose Hill Cemetery.
Some years sbo a Briton who died left his
wife the sum of one farthing, and asked his
executors to iind this coin to her in an un
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iirv - J
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WHY LET YOUR
MUFFLER XECKWEAR LATEST FALL STYLE.
HIS dainty bit of new neckwear is
called the muffler collar, since it
arranged around the throat
something as one arranges a knitted
muffler. The collar is a useful little
affair, for it may be donned over a
simple blouse even over the ordinary
collar of the same giving special
style and chic to the costume.
The muffler collar pictured is fash
ioned of Persian brocade ribbon, cream
net frilling and a tiny fringe of white
It sounds a bit "fussy," but the ma
terials are really iut 'together very
simply and rather fussy neck belong
ings are in vogue now. Tou will need
about a yard of Persian ribbon of
handsome quality, and this should be
mitered into a point. at one end. The
ribbon is stitched over the net frilling,
a bit of fur the narrowest fringe of
fur. being inserted between. Lastly,
the collar is attached to collar foun
dation of stiffening which should be
faced on the inner side with a bit of
pussy willow silk or soft satin. The
collar hooks or snaps - in front, the
muffler end being allowed to trail
backward --on the- shoulder. - - - - -
Will prevent it in most cases by re
moving dandruff, itching and irri
tation, the usual cause of dry, thin
and falling hair. Nothing better.
Samples Free by Mail
Cmleur Soap sad Ointment sold gif bois.
ljbm aampl of eeh mailed frea with 32-p. book.
Addreea port-card "CuUeura. Dept. 11G, Boston.
Pretty, Wavy, Curling
Hair Without Hot iron
let me tell you of a. simple method
which is a favorite of the be Ilea of a cer
tain exclusive social . set. I'm sure you
would like to know of it. because It will
give your hair such a pretty curliness and
lustre and permit you to Jo away with the
ruinous waving iron forever.
Just set from any druggist a few ounces
of ordinary liquid silmerine, and at night
apply a little with a clean tooth brush,
drawing this down the full length of the
hair. In the morning you will nave a r--al
surprise, the fascinating, fluffy, wavy ef
fect will appear so natural, and there will
be no sr ea.y. yummy, streaky or other un
pleasant trace of this harmless liquid. You
will albO find this a splendid dressing for
the nair. -Mona Morrow la the Clubwoman.