HEAVY MATERIAL MADE INTO COATS
FASHIONED IN GRACEFUL MANNER
Cheruit Produces Evening Wrap of Flame Red Velvet Lined With Pussy "Willow Taffeta Having floral Pattern
of Flame Geraniums on White Background Marine Blue Velvet With Gray Fox Also Used.-
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PROOF that even zibeline. one of
the heaviest coat materials, may
be managed with infinite grace, is
revealed in this runabout coat of dark
jjray zibeline with a collar of gray as
trachan. The coat Is ideally practical;
It may be donned over any sort of cos
tume and make its wearer instantly
ready for an errand to the mailbox or
the bakeshop. And it is smart enough
for an afternoon promenade, too. Its
lines are unusually graceful and the
ripple skirt, just escaping the buttoned
walking boot has a smart swing from
the hips. A felt sailor trimmed with
ostrich rosettes accompanies the coat.
With mousquetaire sleeves and a
dashing ripple cut, a Cheruit theater
wrap manages to take to itself a sug
gestion of the Roman this because of
the arrangement of gold braid trim
ming. Cheruit has built this astonish
ing and stunning coat of flame red
velvet and has lined it with pussy wil
low taffeta having a floral pattern of
flame geraniums on a white ground.
The trimming fur is sable, and this fur
is put on in an original manner. The
Cheruit model has been copied also, in
marine blue velvet with gray fox, and
In white velvet with Kolinsky.
Just the coat, this, for long tramps
on Autumn and Winter- days. The ma
terial pepper and salt wool mixture
is soft and warm yet not heavy enough
to be burdensome. The coat is so conf
fortable and loose, also, that a knitted
aweater may be donned beneath it on
especially cold days. Cuffs and collar
are of the reversed material and the
whole garment bespeaks utility and
service though concessions are made to
style in the flaring coat-skirt which
shows a short walking skirt of mohair
and walking boots in buttoned style.
Peasant Girdle Now Worn to
Harmonize With Blouse.
Featherbone and Crinoline Vaed
Gives Stiffening: and Makn Waist
Appear Trim and Cmall.
THE girl of the period is wearing, to
blend her blouse and skirt into per
fect harmony, the peasant girdle which
laces up the front over a lignt sullen
ing of featherbone and crinoline.
The remainder of the girdle is soft
- usually of wide ribbon or pussy wil
low silk in some bright color pattern
and crushes smoothly against the fig
ure, the lacings at the front insuring
a perfect fit. These girdles make the
waist look trim and small, worn with
new flaring skirts, and some of them
are designed to give the new pointed
basque effect at the front.
A girdle in mind is the poster print
pussy willow, with the strips of stiffen
ing down the front edges cut into
points at the bottom to give the prin
cess effect. Black grosgrain ribbon
laces pass through buttonholed eyelets.
A "stay' or lap of the silk is always
inserted beneath the laces, for the
girdle is not supposed to come together
at the front edges, but makes a V
shaped opening over the "stay" the
manner of the regulation peasant
girdle.
Defective Cupboards Cause
Spoiling: of Food.
Proper I.oeatton, Construction, and
Ventilation Are Kssenttals to Irc
wnt Common Form of Waste.
IN choosing a house, very few house
wives pay anything like the atten
tion they should to the position and ar
rangement of stole cupboards. Given
plenty of shelves and a window they
are usually quite contented, even though
the window admits the broiling rays of
the midday sun, or the wood be hung
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with festoons of damp rot. Naturally,
uch cupboards entail an enormous daily
waste of food, and consequently a con
siderable increase of expenditure.
No matter how economical the house
wife may strive to be she will con-
Atantlv be hnvinir In throw nvav nm
$ ions of milk, molded cheese- and
bread, and all manner of dry stores.
If the cupboard be defectively situated
or" arranged, in a couple of months she
will be sighing because her jam or
marmalade has '"gone wrong." Such
"going wrong" is an inveterate charac
teristic of the food of many households.
The perfect cupboard should have a
northerly or eastern aspect, it should
be "cool, dry, well ventilated, and situ
ated far enough.. away Irom-ihejtitclien
TITE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND,
J '
not to be influenced by the heat of the
lire, it must not be near a lavatory,
and the window should be large enough
to admit plenty of air for the destruc
tion of those enemies of pure food
damp and dirt. The walls, if they are
not tiled, should be limewashed, and
the shelves made of marble, slate, or
stone. .
The door may be partially filled In
with finely perforated zinc, to tnsure
proper ventilation, the aim being to
admit air while excluding Insects and
flies. The correct temperature is 50
degrees Fahr. in Summer, and in Win
ter about 38 deg'ees Fahr. During hot
weather some wet and porous material
should be spread over the window, on
the outside, for the purpose of cooling
tne atraospnere.
Auction Sales of Boohs.
. Atlantic
' last analysis '
'In.-lhe
pretty" much
everything, including poetry, is mer
chandise, and every important book
sooner or later turns -up in the auction
rooms. The dozen or 50 men present
represent the book-buyers of the world
you are buying against them. When
you sell a book at auction the whole
world is your market- This refers, of
course, only to important sales. At
other times books are- frequently dis
posed of at much less than their real
value. These sales it pays the book
collector to attend, personally if he
can. or, better still, to entrust his bid
to the auctioneer or to some represen
tative in whom he has confidence. Most
profitable of all for the buyer are the
sales where furniture, pictures and
rugs are disposed of, with, finally, a
few books knocked down by one who
knows nothing of their value.
Many are the volumes in my library
which have been picked up on such oc
casions for a very few dollars, which
are worth infinitely more than I paid
for them. I have in mind my copy of
the first edition of Boswell's Corsica,
in fine old calf, with the inscription.
"To the Right Honorable, the Earl
Marischal of Scotland, as & mark of
sincere regard and affection, from the
author. James Boswell." This stands
me only a few dollars. In London I
should have been asked, and would
have paid, 20 pounds for it.
Coquettish Bit of Color at
Ankle Is Displayed.
Velvet Rose on Peacock: Blue Uaed
In New Style Trlcorne Hats Seem
mm Popular m Ever.
AMONG the coquettish styles of the
Autumn was noted, the other day
at an opening, one especially coquet
tish. The skirt of a black satin-djfbu-tante
frock was caught up at the ankle
by two long sasn ends of black velvet
.which dropped from the waistline and
looped under the skirt edge, so that
the soft satin was drawn up to reveal a
good deal of stocking and slipper, and.
ncidentally, the tkirt facing, which
was of peacock blue pussy willow. To
call attention to this bit of color at the
ankle, a velvet rose in peacock blue
shade nestled at the waistline, a Jetted
rose beside it.
Tricorne hats seem as popular as
ever, but one does not note many
quatrecones this Fall. In fact, elon
gated hats are not as fashionable now
as round ones, whether the shape lean
toward sailor, turban or sombrero styl
jreit nats trimmed with velvet are
popular for morning wear and there is
a certain sporty smartness about these
models that makes them very correct
with simple tailored suits. More often
than not they are trimly veiled with
sheer face veil of hexagon or octagon
net trailed over by a dainty maiden
hair design.
Autumn dressmakers are using yards
and yards of cable cord, which is run
nto skirts to give them width, made
into velvet pipings for sleeve-edging,
and used to join waist and skirt in cos
tumes of the peplum style. Stiffening
of some sort there must be in the even
ing frock of soft, limp fabric, and this
stiffening is most artfully and subtly
introduced so that the silhouette is one
of dainty fluffiness, with harsh, defi
nite lines nowhere.
Good looking is an Autumn street
costume of darkest green mohair and
worsted mixture, cut in a pointed over-
skirt above a skirt of velvet-striped
pussy willow also dark green in shade.
The coat has revers and cuffs of the
striped pussy willow, and coat and deep
peplum are Joined with cable cord cov
ered with dark green velvet. A muf
fler collar of sealskin rises about the
neck of the coat, giving the correct.
swathed effect, and the ripple skirt
short enough to show patent leather
boots with buttoned black cloth tops.
Dainty Linen Ideal Gift for
Careful Housewife.
Attractive Set for Dlnlnsr-Room
Fnrnltare Designed With Embroi
dery Instead of Lace.
THERE is no branch of her house
keeping that is so alluring to the
dainty housewife as the replenishing
and keeping up of linens for the dining-room.
Piles of snowy napkins, in
itialed by hand, satin-smooth table
cloths of various lengths to fit the
dining table in all dimensions, doilies,
centerpieces, covers for sideboard and
sidetable, does not the good housewife
love to count them over and finger
them, the possessions dear to her
housewifely soul?
Gmbrotdery has come in again for
dining-room accessories, and is just
now as fashionable as lace, of which
almost too much has been in evidence
for the past few years. A set of cen
terpiece and doilies, of fine, heavy
linen, scalloped simply in a color
matching the dining-room furnishing,
makes an attractive gift for the hos
tess; and a set of covers for sideboard
and serving tables may also be em
broidered in the predominating color
of the room.
One scarf is intended for a small
sidetable and is part of a set which
comprises sideboard scarf, serving
table cover and. the scarf.
. Sideboard cover and serving-table
cover are shaped to nt the pieces of
furniture they adorn, and this little
scarf has curved, overhanging ends
which fall over the edges of a small
sideboard. The ends are finished with
hand crochet lace,. which also trims the
larger pieces all around. The embroid
ered design is in shades of brown and
orange; for this set was made to beau
tify a brown-furnished room.
ANOTHER BURIED FOR SON
Railroad Pays $1500 and Youth
Appears After "Death."
CHICAGO, Oct. 22. On Christmas
eve. 1913, Frank Bilek returned to his
home at 2520 South Sacramento ave
nue, lrom tire Bohemian Catholic Cem
etery, where, for half an hour he gazed
bareheaded at a tall marble monument
on wnich was chiseled "Thomas Bilek,
died May 21, 1913. aged 22." and sat
before the fireplace.
Tiere was solace in the fact that Tom
had a good funeral exceptionally good
music. flowers, carriages, many
mourners.
Bilek's thoughts wandered back to
the day when he had first been in
formed -of the death of his son by of
ficials of a railroad for which the
young man had worked at Pierre, S. D.
The company agreed to a settlement
and $1E00 was sent to the father.
His reverie was interrupted by a loud
kn'ocl' on the door. It opened and a
vouth entered.
: ".Merry Christmas, father!" greeted
the coy.
The old man looked doubtfully at the
visitor and drove nim from the house.
It was only after friends had con
vinjtd themselves and the father that
he was truly Thomas Bilek that the
old man admitted him to his home.
Thi story came to light when Harry
O. Keats, assistant to Judge Horner 'in
the I'robate Court, discharged Frank
Bilek as administrator of the estate of
his s"n.
The railroad company sued Mr. Bilek
for $1500. which it co-.ld not force him
to pay. The mc-ney had been spent for
the funeral c-f his supposed son. '
The identity cf the man who was
burie-1 with honors never was learned.
In 1914 Alireiir. Imported agricultural ma.
chine ry value4 at $1,3U2,472.
OCTOBER 31, 1915.
FACES SHOWN OF WOMEN WHOSE
NAMES ARE WELL KNOWN TO PUBLIC
Pittsburg Has Double of Mrs. Gait Ohio Girl, Married to Russian Nobleman, Has Heard No Word From Him
Since July War Thought to Have Disrupted Royal Romance Woman Acts as Mayor of Big City.
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THEf first double of the prospective
first lady of the land has turned
up. Shs is Miss Catherine Brim
mer, a pretty Pittsburg girl, daughter
of Mr. and Mrs. John Brimmer. Friends
of Miss Brimmer have noticed the re
semblance and commented on it- Any
one who will compare the smiling face
of Miss Brimmer with Mrs. Gait's will
confirm their opinion. Every mistrest
of the White House has had doubles
and Mrs. Cleveland, whose romantic
marriage suggests that of Mrs. Ualt.
had many in different cities of the
United States.
Baroness Beckendorff. the anxious
wife of a Russian Baron, is awaiting
news from him in New York. He is a
Lieutenant in the Russian army and
she has not heard from him since July.
The Baroness is staying in a New York
hotel hoping that each mail may
have some word for her of his safety.
The Baroness is a native of Coving
ton, Ky., and the daughter of Mrs.
Charles A. Orr, of Woodlawn, O.
An interesting romance has, it is
said, been abruptly terminated by Bul
garia's entry into the war. It had been
reported that Grand Duchess Olga, old
est daughter of the Czar, had been en
gaged to Crown Prince Boris, of Bul
garia, and the proposed match was fa
vorably regarded in circles of royalty.
By Bulgaria's defiance of Russia, it is
FRENCH CHINA DESIGNS
ARE USED FOR DOILIES
Patterns Also Are Used for Centerpieces. Making Delightful Table Linen
for Luncheons, to Match Dishes.
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.NEW PATTERNS L'SEO
THB needlework shops are showing
new doilies and centerpieces which
imitate In pattern the designs on dainty
French china. For luncheons where
such china is used, these new table
linens are delightful, though most host
esses will prefer plain, handsome -white
linens for the dinner table. A pretty
doily and centerpiece design for lunch
eon has circles of delicate color alter
nating with . circles of tiny embroid
ered flowers, in imitation of plate pat
terns in French china.
For example, the round doily trimmed
with lace, will show, half an inch from
its buttonholed outer edge, a half inch
band of shrimp pink, this embroidered
in cross-stitcn, stemsUtch - darning-
thought this romance has come to an
end.
A daughter of England's ruling fam
ily, who now lives in Spain, but who
must often in these war days look
anxiously toward her native land, is
Queen Victoria of Spain. What with
IV TABLE COVER1XG OW.
stitch or some similar effect. Half an
inch within this will come a band of
little embroidered flowers, the band de
fined by stem-stitching in black; then
another band of shrimp pink.
Another pretty design is the medal
lion. On the round doily, about an inch
in -from the lace edge, are drawn four
circles, two Inches in diameter. These
are outlined delicately in black and in
the center of each circle Is embroidered
a tiny basket and flower design..
Then the entire background, omitting
the circles, is stem-stitched with navy
blue cross-barred lines, about three
fourths of an inch apart. The center
piece to match will have much larger
circles and flower-baskets and the
cross-barred lines may be placed an
inch -and' a half apart.. . ....
her family of interesting children, how
ever. Queen Victoria is quite busy at
home. Beatrice, her oldest daughter,
was born in June. 1909.
One of the society girls of the South,
who is an exponent of classical danc- ,
ing". is Eleanor McMillin. the daughter
of Benton McMHlin. Minister to Peru.
Mr. McMillin has been member of the
House of Representatives and Gov
ernor of Tennessee. Miss McMillin gave
a public exhibition of her dancing when
a Greek play was presented in Nash
ville some time ago.
Estella Lawton Lindsay is the first
woman who has presided over the des
tinies of a city of the first class in
the United States. She is the only
woman member of the City Council
of Los Angeles. Recently the city's
Mayor went away and as the President
of the Council also was absent it was
necessary to elect a President pro tern.,
who would act as Mayor. The Coun
cilmen gallantly chose Mrs. Lindsey by
unanimous vote and she took posses
sion of the Mayor's office. Mrs. Law
ton says if she were a really truly
Mayor she would have the city do its
own paving; would abolish the jail and
substitute a misdemeanor farm; would
blacklist drunkards; would establish
the single tax system ; would have a
school for mothers: would drive the
loan sharks out of business; would
place free milk stations all' over town;
and would placard the owner's name
on all property so as to identify pub
licly the owners of places used for im
moral purposes.
$2000 AWAITS LOST CAT
Legacy Is Left for Pet Given -Away
Year neforc.
CHICAGO, Oct. 20. John H. Warder
used to think a great deal of his pet
angora cat, Boyse. In his will he pro
vided that $2000 be set aside in a trust
fund for the care of Boyse at a cat
paradise in Massachusetts.
The will has just been filed for pro
bate, and Mrs. Warder, to whom th-e
whole estate is left, was asked what
she intended to do in regard to Boyse.
"Goodness! she exclaimed, "we gave
Boyse away a year ago. I don't even
know where he is now."
How to Look Less
Than Your Age
There are three golden rules that every
woman who would ward off signs of ad
vancing1 ag sho-uld follow:
1. Cultivate cheerfulness. Those who un- ,
derstand the physiological effect of worry
ing know this advice should be taken more
seriously than It usual iy Is.
2. Whenever the complexion begin to
look worn or withered, use ordinary mer
coltxed wax for a week or two. Apply
nightly like cold cream, erasing it inorn
intes with warm water. This gradually ab
sorbs the tain film of surface skin, reveal
ing the fresher and younger skin under
neath. An our.ee of the wax. obtainable at
any drug store, is enough to rejuvenate
any complexion.
a. When the tell-tale wrinkles appear, or
cheek and chin muscles begin to sag, bathe
the f acf oi ice a da y for a while in a so
lo t ion of powierMi saxoitte. 1 ox., dissolved
in pint of witch hail. This ha" a re
markable effect In "firming up' ana
smoothing out the skin, Adv.