THE SUNDAY OREGOyiAN, PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 1915. '
; i 1
tante, but so enchantingly becoming is
the style that undoubtedly it will be
adopted by women of all ages and all
figures. Sailors of velvet abound and
some of them are trimmed at the back
with flowers a notion that has
cropped out again after resting for
gotten for several years.
There are some smart felt sailors
and turbans for general wear with
tailored suits. Paris has pronounced
felt hats fashionable and their vogue
is assured. Smart semi-sport hats are
of colored felt, draped with silk
scarfs or trimmed with cabuchons of
pleated silk; and there are good-looking
tailored hats for shopping and mo
toring, made of fine felt, with suede or
velvet facing and trimming of pleated
ribbon or coque ornaments.
PERT KNICKERBOCKER HAT TRYING,
EXCEPT TO PRETTY YOUNG WEARERS
WHEN SMALL HATS ARE WORN THIS
SEASON THEY MUST BE MINIATURES
French Styles Are Almost Bare of Trimming, but Upstanding Silk Brim Forms Happy Contrast to Crown and
Headband of Velvet Broad-brimmed Sailors Are Having Revival in Realms of Fashion.
Larger Models This Year Are Inclined to Droop at Sides and Point Upward, Poke Bonnet Style
tumn Model Is Trimmed "With Roses of Unnatural Hues.
-Another Au-
Rapid Change in Styles Dis
tracts Merchant.
Women Who Would Keep TTp With
Fashions Have Little Time Left
for Other Things.
C -M y & v. . h
J Si ' z. - " I II
A FAD of the Fall season is the
pert Knickerbocker sailor, with
tiny, stiff brim and tall, blocked
crown a trying hat, unless the face
Is young, pretty and piquant. This
AUTUMN HATS ARE SIMPLE WITH
SMALL SHAPES DEVOID OF TRIMMING
Larger Ones Have Massed Adornment Sailors Built High at Back Are New Feature Velvet Cleverly Draped
in Unique Crowns Felt and Suede Fashionable for All Veils Much Worn.
1HE new Autumn hata are ready
and so attractive they are in their
readiness that It Is probable
-women will take to wearing them
earlier than ever this year. If It is
summery on a September day, one may
always put on a cool little frock of
pussy willow or some light silk; but a
Fall hat, obviously of the new season.
uuo tuL positively nave on one s head,
or the effect will be na
Tho new hats are big and they are
little. One may choose with absolute
cenamiy mat no mistake will be made,
for Paris this year indorses both styles.
" " at is big, it must be big
"""sn 10 nave a picturesque quality;
if it is small, it must be exceedingly
fimall and chic; and this is most im
portant it must be swathed in an equal
ly chic face veil. The small hat. veil
Jess, does not agree with Madam Mode's
ideas at all. She Insists upon the veil
as a component part of the hat, and
only the broad-brimmed model is per
mitted to show itself unveiled.
Veil Patterns Pronounced.
As the mesh of the face veil be
comes finer, the pattern seems to grow
bolder and more pronounced, and the
smartest veils have sprawling vinet
and ramage designs on a background
of almost invisible hexagon or lattice
mesh, but the patterns are so cleverly
arranged on the veil that the effect is
most becoming to the face. For ex
ample, a veil of hexagon mesh has a
vinet pattern which starts at the sides,
the delicate foliage forming a frame
for the center of the face, eyes and
,nose being covered only with the fine
mesh, while tiny leaves stray over tem
ple, cheek and chin.
Another face veil has a leaf and stem
pattern which forms a bridle under the
chin, the leaves spraying outward and
upward on the cheeks. All veils, worn
with small hats, are drawn under the
chin now and. while a few veils show
border designs, the border is not im
portant, as it merges into the collar,
often a high affair, featherboned and
trilled to reach almost to the ears.
Trlcornes Have Draped Gowns.
The tricorne is so becoming that it
refuses to budge from its pinnacle of
favor, and reappears each season with
some trick of brim-bending or crown
draping to give it newness. This year
the tricorne proves itself by its crown
rather than its brim, and some of the
small hats for wear with tailored suits
have perfectly straight brims with
soft, draped velvet crowns drawn out
into three peaks, to give the tricorne
effect.
Tb-e straight brim, fitting the head
closely, with much-draped crown above
is a feature of Autumn millinery, and,
while this sort of hat is chic on a
email head, and when the features are
pretty rather than strong, the average
woman should beware of the style and
insist upon having a rolling' brim, how
model of black velvet has a curling
brim of black bendel satin, and as
though the crown were not high
enough already, pleated satin ribbon
adds a few more inches to its altitude.
Satin and moire ribbons are twisted
ever tiny, for -the sake of becoming-
ness.
A smal hat is fatal on the woman
wnose lace is large or whose shoulders
are square and broad; she should wear
Collar of Extreme Height Is
Autumn Mode.
New Stock Is of 'White Net, With
Narrow Ribbon, Finishing Oft at
Base.
Collars Are Growing Higher and
Fuller.
........ ..........
WHAT seems to be the highest col
lar yet has appeared, but when
coat collars are swathing the neck to
the ears, blouse and bodice collars can
but try to keep up with them and
even to overtop them a wee bit, for
the edge of sheer white above the coat
collar 'is attractive.
A new set of stock for Autumn wear,
it will be noted, has most of the collar
at the upper edge, a narrow ribbon
finishing oft the base where collar is
attached to bodice. This stock is made
of white net. shirred to an Inevitable
foundation of light featherbone which
may be slipped out easily when the
stock is laundered.
A frame of featherbone, sprouting
from the tall stock, supports the flar
ing upper part of the collar which is
also of net, hemstitched -and finished
with a picot edge.
around the base of the pleating and are
tied in a saucy bow, held in place by a
big jet cabuchon. '
Larger hats are inclined to droop
at the bides and point upward in poke,
bonnet style, at the front quite the
reverse of the shepherdess shape so
fashionable last Summer. Picturesque
is the drooping-brim sailor of black
velvet with its rather high crown, tied
around with a broad satin ribbon
which finishes in a girlish bow at the
back. One big rose in soft shades of
pink and violet is poised against the
front. A simple hat, simply trimmed;
but wonderfully becoming.
There also is a rose-trimmed hat
for Autumn rather an innovation it
seems; but the roses are not in natural
nues; tney matcn the material of the
hat itself a soft beige velvet. The
hat has excellent lines, fitting the head
closely yet flaring from the face just
enough to.be graceful. The crown is
low and droops a trifle over the steep
brim. The flowers are of velvet and
silk and are so closely massed against
the hat that they blend with its lines
a roll-brim turban or a sailor of one
sort or another anything but the tiny
pert hat which adds massiveness to her
features. Here is where the value of
the veil comes in, for a small hat. neat
ly veiled, is usually more becoming
tnan the same hat, unveiled, and every
nat, when closely swathed in a veil,
looks smaller than it really is.
Velvet is the material most used for
turbans, though sometimes ribbed silk
like grosgrain or faille classique is
combined with the velvet for the sake
of contrast. This effect is shown, in a
Reboux turban which has a straight
brim three inches high, from the top
of which springs a flaring brim of
faille classique, two inches wide. The
crown of this hat is velvet, softly
draped from side to side so that the
material lies in even folds.
Hand-Made Hats Exclusive.
The woman who can pay any price
for millinery will have a hand-made
silk and velvet chapeau this Autumn.
These hats are made on light wires
over which the silk is corded by hand,
or shirred in soft folds; and such a
hat is light as a feather on the head,
and ideally comfortable.
A model in mind, made by a milliner
just off Fifth avenue, is a tiny turban
of beige colored faille classique, with
a rather high crown, corded over five
fine- wires. The brim rolls upward
slightly and is not more than an inch
wide at its widest point, which is at
the left side. This hat is trimmed
with raisins the latest French idea, if
you please, and the raisins, made of
the beige silk, are massed all around
the crown, near the top. There 'must
be five dozen raisins at least and each
has been painstakingly fashioned by
hand, by shirring little bags of the
silk to give the wrinkled raisin effect.
Another stunning beige hat is of vel
vet, with beige velvet - and silk roses
massed around the crown.
Trimmings Adroitly Placed.
Little trimming, if any at all, is
used on the small hat designed for
wear with a veil; and when trimmings
are used on larger hats, the effect is
carefully studied and made to look
unstudied. A soft-brimmed sailor of
brown velvet has a low crown band
with brown moire ribbon and at one
side is a rosette of the same ribbon
supporting a brown silk tassel. An
other sailor of navy blue velvet, with
slightly stirrer brim, has a draped
scarf of the velvet around its crown
and a spiky Jet and metal ornament
pointing forward at the front. A pic
turesque velvet sailor whose brim'
"dips" at the sides and points upward
at the front unlike the shepherdess
shape of Summer favor, which dipped
at the front and flared up at either
side is tied around with a band of
ribbon which forms a girlish bow at
the back of the brim. In front of tfte
crown is a big pink and violet velvet
rose. -
This 19 obviously a hat for the debu
A DISTRACTED merchant of the
Middle Wesff is no advocate of rap
idly changing styles, as witness this
letter, writtten last month to one of
the big trade weeklies:
"What good reason can there be for
this rapid-fire, instantaneous, violent.
frenzied, brain-racking and damnable
fashion change that is sweeping the
earth with the fury of a Kansas cy
clone, scattering the hard earnings of
consumers ana the pronts of merchants
to the winds: strewing the commercial
paths of our country with financial
carcasses all due to the mad rush to
keep pace with the decree of frenzied
fashions for light-brained females?"
All of which goes to show that the
rapidly changing styles, so profitable
to metropolitan manufacturers and re
tailers, frequently bring disaster to the
shopkeeper of a small inland town who
cannot turn over" his stocks auicklv
enough or to get rid fast enough of
current raoocs, which he has to keep
up with or exasperate customers, who
themsalves keep up with changing
fashions by perusing magazines and
newspapers?
Woman provides, nowadays, for four
seasons a year, while in the good old
days she bought new clothes for Sum
mer and Winter and got along by re
furbishing what she had in the between
seasons.
Keeping up with the styles is ardu
ous and strenuous work and only the
woman who has really nothing else to
occupy her mind can pretend to do it
successfully. How much of woman's
time is wasted thinking of clothes,
making clothes and buying clothes it
would be hard to compute; but certain
ly a good deal of this valuable time
would be better spent In rest, recrea
tion or out-of-door exercise. Will the
time ever come when woman buys her
raiment as man does, providing what
seems to be necessary for the season-to-be
in a day or so by a few visits to
tailor and outfitter and then dismiss
ing the subject with relief from a mind
filled with more important things?
HOTEL "BOUNCER" IS SUED
Broker Brings Action for 'itoug-li
Handling at Home.
CHICAGO. Sept. 11. Carl B. Knapp
the other day sued the International
Hotel Company, owning the Kaiser
hof. for J15.000. v
"Charles Shelley is a German." ex
plained Knapp's attorney. Henry
Knaus. "Shelley is the Kaiserhofs of
ficial bouncer. One night in July
Knapp, a little under the weather,
tried to get into the hotel to get to his
room.
"This Shelley lit into him and beat
him up. Mr. Knapp's time is too valua
ble to be spent recovering from any
bouncer's tattoo. He is a broker."
MONKEY MUTILATES BOY
Animal Escapes l-'rom Cage During
Carnival and Causes Panic.
SHENANDOAH, Sept. 13. During a
carnival performance here a pet mon
key escaped from its cage and caused
a panic in the crowded tent when it
viciously attacked Adolph Starowsky.
14 years old. terribly lacerating his
face and hands beforo it was beaten
off.
A number of women and children
were dangerously injured in the stam
pede. Couple Die in Suicide Pact.
ROME. Sept. 16. Mile. Odilla Van
Welderon, 20-year-old daughter of
Baron Van Welderon Rengo, Dutch
Minister to Italy, and Count Gioffredo
Caelani Dell-Aquilla Aragona, accord
ing to newspaper dispatches from Sor
rento, were found dead in the Count's
villa at a nearby beach. In the room
was found a letter in which they said
GLOVE SILK CHEMISE
LATE BOUDOIR LUXURY
Garment Is of Flesh Tint and Is Embroidered Exquisitely Across Top and
Inset With Net.
IMOMnillllllllllllllllllll'ttMi
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i GLOVE SILIv,CHKM ISE IS POPULAR.
4
OMEN who have once worn glove I
silk undergarments refuse to re-J
turn to cotton-woven ones, for
there, is aa.indescribablo and. most. deT J
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W
HEN this season's hat is small.
it is very small, and over it is
arranged a particularly smart
veil which shows to better advantage
because of the inconspicuous shape of
the- hat and its dearth of trimming.
An extreme type of simplicity is de
scribed here one of the smart little
model hats sent over by Paris early
in the season. It Is a hand-made hat,
exclusive in shape and handsome in
material, although so little material ia
used and scarcely any trimming. In
deed one can scarcely call the upstand
ing silk brini "trimming," though it
offers contrast to crown and headband
of velvet. The hew veil in hexagon
weave has a trailing flower design
which bridles the chin.
The new turbans are made for veils
and when veil and hat are successfully
blended the effect is perfection. A Fall
tricorn of black velvet Is popular. The
tricorne brought up to date, with close
head-band and soft crown drawn out
into three peaks above. At one side a
metal ornament in blues and greens is
caught against the velvet crown;
otherwise the little hat is quite desti
tute of trimming, according to the last
wnim or Paris. The veil of fine hexa-
they could not live without each other
and preferred to die. The Count was
separated from his wife. He was on
leave of absence from the front, where
he had been fighting with an Alpine
regiment.
lightful sensation of luxurious comfort
attendant upon the wearing of woven
silk next the skin.
A glova silk chemise'is"-the..latest
t
gon mesh has a rather bold vinet pat
tern which is, however, so cleverly ar
ranged on the mesh that most of the
face is revealed.
Not in several years have broad
brimmed sailors, trimmed high at the
back, been seen; but the style is one
of the fashionable revivals for Autumn.
The velvet sailor is exquisitely grace
addition to luxurious boudoir wear; a
cnemise so soft and fine that it can be
drawn through a bracelet and so daint
ily trimmed that it is fit for the Fall
bride's trousseau. Of flesh-tinted' glove
silk, it is exquisitely embroidered
across the top. insets of net giving the
embroidered design greater delicacy.
The chemise comes to the armpits
only and there are shoulder straps of
ribbon, also in pale flesh pink tone.
Lace and entre deux threaded with pink
baby ribbon trim the top and the
chemise is quite short, falling midway
between hip and knee. It may be
worn under the corset with perfect
comfort.
Autumn Corsets Are Curved
at Waistline.
Straight Front Still Prevails. While
Models Are Shorter, but Higher at
Bust.
THE first of the Autumn corsets have
arrived from Paris and there is no
doubt at all that woman's waist is
again on the way toward waspishness.
A decided in-curve is evident at either
side of the waistline, though the
straight front still prevails and there
is not the slightest tendency toward a
curve at tbe back. Hips are to be less
restrained, however, and while the new
corset is several inches shorter, it is
proportionately higher at the bust,
giving the figure the neat, rounded ap
pearance that best becomes new bodices
stiffened with featherbone.
v
Trellis mesh veils are particularly
flattering to the face and the new pat
terns show tiny woven dots at the in
tersection of the crossed threads which
make the trellis mesh.
New blouses for Fall are daintier
than ever blouses were before and
that is saying a good deal for them ar
far as sheerness goes. Georgette crepe
and tinted indestructible voile, delicate
ly hand embroidered, are used for more
dressy waists and there are hand
tucked batiste blouses for morning
wear. Sport blouses are of stitched
and tucked linen, striped linen being
particularly smart; striped pussy wil
low shirtings are also distinguished for
sport shirts. Costume blouses are of
pussy willow taffeta and of soft, supple
satin debutante and satin goldenrod in
bright colors that give a cheery look to
somber tailored suits.
.
There is more and more tendency to
ward the wearing of mannish gloves
when the costume is tailored in sim
ple, smart style. Hand-sewn French
kid gloves in one or two-button length
will give the right flntsh to the Autumn
tailleur; suede gloves of more feminine
type will accord best with the dainty
afternoon frock. Boots also are a
burning question now and there is no
doubt whatever that the correct boot
for Fall will be high-heeled, graceful
of, line and posesssed of a, beautifully
Attins .buttoned, .top.
V Yv ill '
ful in line, the corded crown being ex
actly the right height and size to har
monize with the curving brim; and the
curve of this brim is at the back where
the hat flares upward and has Its
widest dimension. Under the brim Is
a facing of flesh-tinted suede and the
closely massed velvet roses are in
shades of pink, tan and white.
SLEUTHS CATCH ELOPERS
Youth Is Accused of Abducting Girl
With "Baby Face."
NEW YORK. Sept. 14. When the
Hoston Express arrived at the Grand
Central Terminal all the passengers
were kept in the cars, despite their
protests, until Detectives Dietsch and
Manning searched the train and found
a young man and a girl who say they
are elopers.
"Please search Roston Express and
arrest Angus McKay for abduction,"
read a telepram to the New York police
from tho Chief of Police of Waterbury.
Conn. "He is accompanied by a pretty
girl with a baby fare, wearing white
hat and white dress." While the other
passengers protested, the detectives
searched the train until they came to a
pretty little girl with a big white hat.
Certainly she knew Angus McKay; he
had gone ahead to the baggage car to
check their trunk, she said. The detec
tives waited, while the passengers be
came indignant and some of them were
furious at being imprisoned.
But they were all held in the cars
until a dapper young fellow came back
through the train and demanded to
know from the detectives why they
were speaking to the girl. They told
him. and also informed him he was un
der arrest. He was McKay.
Then the other passengers were re
leased and the air about them was blue
as they hurried from the train. The
girl is Agnes McDonough. 17 years old.
of No. 50 Mitchell Tiace. Waterbury. .
Before being sent to the Florence Crit
tenton Home to await the arrival of her
parents, she cried and said she loved
Angus McKay and had run away with
him because her mother did not like
him.
McKay was a court messenger in
Waterbury. He eaid he had intended
placing the girl In a reputable hotel
untli he found a position, and then he
would have married her. He was locked
up on a charge of abduction, made in
Waterbury.
More than 1.413.000 Canadians are liable
for military service. Of ihfii it iw as
serted, at least 73 per cent are physically
fit.
To Quickly Remove
Ugly Hairs From Face
(Beauty Notes.)
Beauty-destroying hairs are soon
banished from the skin with the aid of
a delatone paste, made by mixing some
water witn a little plain powdered del-
atone. This is spread upon the hairy
surface for two or three minutes, then
rubbed off and the skin washed to re
move the remaining delatone. This
simple treatment banishes everv trai-x
of hair and leaves the skin without a
oiemisn. caution should be used to h
certain that it is delatone you huv
Adv.