TITE SUNDAY OHEOOXTAN. PORTLAND, AUGUST 22, 1915.
6
blaser stripes are ready for sport wear
with Norfolk suits of mixed worsted
snd tweed. Such a blouse should match
the color of silk stockings, and a silk
band of tha pussy-willow taffeta may
be twisted. about the new felt sport hat.
About the Ice.
Always shave Ice thin for cold
drinks. Large pieces of Ice are difficult
to manipulate in a glass. Small bits
are far plesssnter. They are more at
tractive to the eye. too. An ice shaver
for prepsrlng Ice for freexing Ice cream
can be used to prepare Ice for bev
erages. Jf such a shaver Is not st
hand a big" piece of ice can be put In a
clean piece of stout cloth and ham
mered on a stona until the Ice is
cruslied. Then It should be put in a
strainer, quickly rinsed under cold
water, and then used.
PRESS CAMERA MEN TAKE LATEST
PICTURES OF WELL-KNOWN WOMEN
PINK SILK ATTRACTIVELY USED IN
ADORNING COLLAR, CUFFS AND VEST
Thamar Karsarvina. Beautiful Russian Dancer, to Visit America Mrs. Lorillard Spencer Active Nawport Host
essEdna Goodrich Home After Serving as Red Cross Nurse "With Belgian Division.
Blaiier-Striped Blotrse for Sport Wear U ia Good Style Button Take Place of Embroidery in Net Blouse, Being
Especially Pleasing and Easily Made Cuffs. Collar and Pirated Frills Attached With Beading.
Smocked Frocki Are Popular
for Autumn Wear.
Pretty Csstsns Ia of Pnasy-Wlllow
Taffeta, and Another la of Dove
Gray Indestructible Voile.
vr' . . a- J ik
X". V V V?-t V.fl
rV
: . . . ? )
x ' 't Vv;. . ' K;"
TMc Mitvnl ralur cr mis new
blu of bnr IndrstructlbU votlc
I th ad'iitlon of pal pink In col
lar, cuff and t. Tha Iranaparcnt
blouM I hil and unJ.r It la worn
dalntr bra.lr run wltb palt pink
ribbon liicli harmoii dll.-atly
with lha pal pu.y willow laffta of
tha blua trtramlns, H'inlHchln
ftnl. tha il k "t. ruffa and collar
bi.t and IS ball buttona on t
and cuff ara rorl with tha pala
plnh puaar willow taff'la.
Himrl. 1t dltlnulhl brrauae of
a iiwl atjrl and It. fina material
blna and whtta ptrtt'd p" willow
ana ahtrtlna la thi blr bloiu for
Autumn .port aar. or fr mrnln
waar with tha tailorad auit. Collar,
porkvt f an and ruff flan ara of whit
puaay willow taffrta ami tha buttonrd
own flapa on po-krt and ruff add a
rfiMfi.'ilv miMl.rn not. Tfr collar.
with Ita nott-hrd cut. tn.rrlnr Into f
BLOUSE REMAINS IN FAVOR THOUGH
DRESSMAKERS TRY TO BANISH IT
Soft Crepe. Silks and Lace Incorporated in Autumn Blouse Wear Buttona Simulate Hand Embroidery Cheruit
Introduce the Chemise-Blouse for Formal Wear Drawn-Thread Blouses of Chiffon Arrive From Paris.
NOT W IT H sT A N I I NO the unremit
ting: effort of dressmaker to
banls!) tha blouaa from woman's
wardrobe, this comfortable, convenient
and easily obtained Item of dress re
fuaes to builse from feminine favor.
There Is aothtnc like a new blouse to
sd t freshness and smartness te week
end attire. A prety blouse donned
with tha mld.ea.on tallleur and hat
snake one f.el ready for almost any un
asserted InvttatK-n. and where Is the
woman whose spirits do not rise at
tha addition of a rharmtns new blouse
to her raiment.
Aa Ions as the tailored suit remains
la fashion, Jujt so Ions will the sep
arata blouse endure la favor, and
aressmakers mar sneer at It all they
may and refuse to consider It serlou.ly
aa a correct adjunrt of the formal
costume. Tha practical vlu of the
blouse Is too firmly established now
ta b en.lansered by any professional
atlsma of eootrmpl. Of course, there
ara occasions w hen blouses ara under
tne ban.
At a we.lms. for Instance, one
would not tMnfc of weartne a separata
wal.t of any sort. Neither Is tha
blouse p.stb;e with a tr.eater costume
la the eeenina-. or at a formal after
Boon reception or luncheon. It may
b wora wiia. hnpnnity at any res
taurant mal. at an afternon brldce
ar at the mac aee. and there are
area.y biou.ea r - sw.-h occasions Just
a there are stmpie blouses for morn
Ins wear, and tailored blouses for
sport wear.
abeer Wadeta W raabsawable.
Someone has said of skirts that
theT ara now aa short aa skirts can
poselbly be. It may be added that
Mouses are now as sheer as they can
poeatbly be. This sheernes doea not
mean indecency or Immodesty, for the
sheer fabrics ara need to veil each
other n'l the shoulders and arms be
neath. The whole e.Tect Is exquisitely
soft and becoming, yet much less iar
Jnlr resllns thsn the ancient
-peeh-s-boo" .hlrtwslet with Its
embroidered perforations showing
a-plenty of colored baby ribbon.
For thee new sheer blouses of Fsl!
4acar save used pastel asd white
r
turnad back lapala Is also a new Idea.
The bloua la unatherad but tha ahoul
dar linaa ara Ions, with a straight,
mannl.h alravv and the blouaa flta
luoalr and comfortably.
At fir.t la oca this dainty white net
blouaa nmi to ba hand embroldrrad
wltb little dota. but the dola ara really
mail, rathar flat white crochrt but
tna arwad closely aralnat the net.
This la an Idea for tha woman who
materials of exquisite softness, like
rhirfon. crepe georgette, dahpne silk.
Indestructible voile a sheer, yet re
markably strong fabric, wltb the
transparency of marquisette nets of
sll s-rts and lacee In Mack, white and
the new blonde tint. Ulonde net. also,
la used, and sine this net launders
perfectly In soap and water, it Is
bound to have a lona run of special
fsvor.
Blonde nets and laces are a deli
cate cream In tone. They appear
white, esrept when held close to pure,
chalk white, and then their soft,
creamy tint Is plainly dlacernlbte.
They are especially flattering- to the
complexion, much more so than the
clear white tints which are trying to
faces past youth's first freshness.
This new blonde tint nppeere also In
f!l veilings of hexagon, lattice and
niadora mesh. The new fashionable
natural silk stockings approximate the
blonde tone of laces and nets very
closely.
over btonde net. or flesh-toned chif
fon, black cbantllly la very smart for
dressy blouses, and snch blouses have
more exclusive style thsn bUck lace
over white models.
rkeastae neaae la fee. f arts ale.
Cheruit has brought out a new model
whlcn she calls the chemise-blouse, snd
the loose comfort and grace of It can
hardly be surpsssed In sny other sep
arate wslst worn by women unless one
excepts the hard-to-die "middy" of
Summer time. This Cheruit chemlse
btouse nans loosely from the shoul
ders, for all the world like a chemise,
except thst It has sleeves to the wrist.
At the waletllne the soft folds are
gathered In carelessly, under a band of
grosgraln ribbon, tied in a bow at the
front.
The blouse Is of flesh pink moussel
Ine veiled with shadow lace, and there
Is a little turnover collar of pink satin
nocturne nhleh tapers Into a V-shaped
vest. This vest fastens with tiny but
tons and permits opening enough st
the top of the blouae for the garment
to be slipped over the head like a veri
table chemise. About three inches be
ie the waistline, black chiffon is at-
! lacbtd io lbs cLemiae of shadow lace.
cannot embroider. The net Is run In
lanathwlve plntucks about two Inches
apart and one of the smart features
of the blouaa la Ita loose, easy fit.
Cuff, collar and pleated frill are at
tached m-lth bead ln. and beadlnir Is
set Into the seams of shoulder and arm
hole. The whole blouse ia exceptional
ly dainty and dlstinaulshed and almost
any woman could copy it satisfactorily
at home.
so that the edge of the blouse merges
Inconspicuously Into the skirt.
Another distinguished blouse, just
arrived from I'aria. comes from Chris
tlanV. whose blousewear Is famous the
norld over. The Chrlstlane model is of
stlkajour. the new hemstitched chiffon
which Is among the exclusive weaves
for Autumn. The blouse Is In an in
describably dslnly shade of blue lav
ender, a new shade, called bleu d'horl
son. Hemstitching forms bairline
stripes in the sheer chiffon weave, and
cross-wise strappings of white satin
groupa with tiny satin-covered buttons
t the strap ends lend the blouse a
military air. There is a vest of white
satin, set In with hemstitching, snd
panels of the satin are hemstitched
Into the sleeve below the elbow, ex
tending downward in points over flare
cuffs of the sllkajour.
. IHewee Is far Mermlag Wear.
Tailored models sre the only sort
for mornings, but materials grow thin
ner and thinner. Batiste so sheer It Is
almost cobwebby l band-tucked In
groups across the entire bark snd
front of the blouse, and collar snd
cuffs may have a tiny edge of plcot.
Other morning blouses sre of crepe de
chine, or of pussy-willow taffeta,
tucked or corded; and the looser and
more graceful the morning blouse Is,
so much the better for Its smartness.
But Ita material must be fine: this Is
an admantlne rule of fashion now.
Even net blouses sre seen In the
morning, snd blonde net. which may be
washed like so much batiste. Is used
for these models. One smart blouse of
blonde net shown at a recent opening
remains in mind. The net was pin
tucked to represent stripes, a tiny tuck
being set every two Inches serosa the
fsbric On slternste spaces between the
tucks, at the front of the blouse, small
white crochet buttons were sewed fn
groups of three, giving the effect of
cushion dots embroidered by hand on
the net- These small buttons were also
evident on the turnover collar snd
cuffs, the latter falling downward over
th band as very smart cuffs do this
season. Collar, cuff and blouse front
ware edged with pllsse net.
Blouses of pussy-willow ahlrUug- In,
WHEN smocking is the fashion. It
Is "the veritable erase; when It
goes out of fashion, it goes with a
rush: so now that smocked effects are
popular, one should go in for them en
thusiastically while they last. Smocked
blouses and coats have been the fad all
Summer, and now smocking attaches
Itself to the Aumumn frock, which is of
soft silk in some charming, neutral
color.
A tsupe frock of pussywillow taffeta
has princess panels from neck to ankle
at front and back, and under the arms
the silk Is smocked in six or eight rows
from psnel to panel, the skirt riaring
in full, gathered folds below this wide,
smocked girdle.
This dainty frock, with Its graceful
princess panels and smocked waistline,
la entirely untrimmed. At the neck is
a collar of sheer natural colored bstlste,
scalloped with white. Wide cuffs of
the bstlste rinlsh the long sleeves.
Pstent lesther pumps and stockings of
natural ailk harmonize with the frock.
Another smocked model for Autumn
wear Is of deve gray Indestructible
voile, the strong, sheer voile thst is
much more satisfactory tlian chiflon.
with all Its sheer, floating quality. This
frock has smocking across the bodice
at front and back, and the full skirt
is smocked at the hip In groups. The
smocking Is done with gray silk, and
the lovely, demure little frock is
mounted over flesh-pink pussywillow
taffeta. A girdle of the pink silk,
veiled with the grsy voile. Is weighted
with grsy silk tassels. One great vel
vet rose In shades of pink and mauve
catches up the skirt at the side.
Boots Suggested as Relic of
Many Romances.
Little Consideration Given by Fash
ionable Society to Material of
' Kaary Wares In Haw State.
DOES milady or milord, for that
ever give a thought to the four
legged Inhabitant of the forest, who
once ranged free and content In the
kin that now conforms graciously to
the last requirement of fashionable
footwear?
Who knowa what primal tragedies
or joys, or loves, or jealousies may
have once Inhabited the wherewithal of
one's boot that, dainty boot, with Its
slim lines of toe snd ankle. Its taper
ing heel and aristocratic buttoned top?
Who knows of hat one's boot is
made? Are your dancing slippers of
rose pink kid? Once they were a
mountain goat, clambering more miles
In a day than you could onestep in
an evening. Those gleaming patent
leather pumps were once sly and crafty
Japanese wolf. The ancestor of that pair
of sturdy sport shoes which cary you
blithely around the golf course was
a formidable Russian bear. The neat
shopping boot of gunmetal calf, with
its buttoned top of matching cloth,
barks back to the cruel and rapacious
Kaffir wolf.
Femininity is accustomed to the sen
sation of wearing the skins of wild
animals, in handsome furs, but in the
smartness and daintiness of modern
foot coverings, one scarcely gives a
thought to the wild animals which Just
as certainly minister to the need of
humanity for clothes.
New Cap for Bathers Trans
forms to Bathing Suitcase.
Bag Is Made of Striped Poaay-Wll-low
Taffeta and Provided With
Drawatrlns. i
HERE Is the most practical cap yet
deiiKned for bathing wear. You
will say at first glance that the cap re
sembles a handy bag for the bathing
suit, and this is just what it is in one
Incarnation. In the other incarnation
the hag becomes a cap. All that Is
necessary to effect the transformation
la to tie the draw-strings around the
head. Then the frill at the top of the
bag becomes a shady brim all around.
and the top of the cap falls over this
brim in tsm fashion, the tuck coming at
the edee of the tarn.
The bajf-cap Is made of striped pus
sywillow taffeta in green snd white,
and of course the black silk bathing
dress will have a collsr and tie. snd
perhaps a girdle of the same striped
taffeta. The modern bathing suit, with
its glove silk undergarment, is so soft
and dainty that it m- easily be rolled
Into a compact enough parcel to fit Into
such a bag and there will be room
enough also for silk stockings, and
even a short bsthing corset.
It Is essy to organise a good roads asso
ciation, snd as .rasy to let it crop aith a
thud. This Is the average vxuerlenoe the
world over.
Carry Haaee Bathing Salt la
Cap.
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P . : S' hj - '? i v 1 v!'
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' : y:y?b fe v -1 lit frY' I,
v-r'.;;wl --yh Csef v-v Ss- iv
Htm fmr
ar M ERICA is to have next season
Its first glimpse ' of Thamar
a Karsarvina. said to be the most
beautiful woman now dancing in pub
lic She is a member of the Russian
ballet which will be brought to the
Metropolitan Opera House for a season
of four weeks. She is young and she
ia considered supreme in her special
field, which is that of mimetic dancing,
ess
The friends of Mrs. George - eabody
Eustis are sending her congratulations
on the arrival of a young Kustis the
first to .visit her home. Mrs. Eustis
is at Newport. As Rosamond Street
Undergarments of Glove Silk
Ideal for Travel.
Hiding; Habits of Linen Crash, Com
bining; Norfolk Coat and Divided
Skirt, Seen at Mountain Itesorta.
FOR Summer travel and motor wear
the ideal undergarments are- of
silk tricot, or glove silk, so soft and
fine that they are as nearly nothing
tn w.i.ht nu . 'l fin..,, t . fun hi. In na.le
pink, with delicate embroidery, the lit
tle chemises ana pantaions are espe
cially dainty and the best. of it is, that
.i V. vinaA mi, nv.rniffht n
Llit:y ii J wis i i v... . ---n ,
invaluable advantage to the traveler
who is not stopping long enougn any
where for laundry to be done. These
. oian noclr oflsilv and several
changes may be packed into an inch
or two OI space in suncase or uicaamft-
bag.
. . - U ..1 .! mi,ri In Hflfi-Klim-
(I 1 1 1 11 wiiu me " ' ...
mer dispense with part of the formal
ity and conventionality tnai gooa iuim
. I . . 1 .llnw Kohl, H 1 1 T" i Tl IT
aemanas in inn 1 iuiufs "
cooler months. One sees, at the ex
clusive mountain resorts where riding
is a favorite sport, good-loking habits
of heavv linen crash combining a loose,
belted Norfolk coat and divided skirt
which may be buttoned trimly to
gether when Its wearer descends from
her mount. The belted coat fits a bit
more trimly than the regulation sport
i Ho I , I m nlnced hisrher.
so that the coat will hang in good lines
In the saddle. A riding sailor of straw
accompanies such a suit, though many
young women this Summer are riding
in the country witnoui nais. me nan
being tied in girlish fashion at the
back with a bow of black ribbon.
. v.ll for earlv Fall days
has a maidenhair pattern, wrought in
delicate thread design on mie
u Th. intiip. nnttern. with
gun mean. r -
open, crossed mesh, also is a favorite
and is becoming to women with a good
deal of color. As a rule, fine-patterned
veils best become women of pale
complexion and conspicuous patterns
women whose flesh tones are deep and
vivid. A new veil tor tne motor cm
has an artfully placed beauty spot
. , v. thA cheek or at one
side of the mouth, the long veil float
ing In graceful folds arounu me nsu.
to the waistline.
Intelligent Catering.
II NINTELLIGENT catering, uujm
I .inhl always, is lees objection
able in Winter than In Summer. In
Winter the appetite is likely to be
sharper, and the nmiiea vmw u.
fruits and vegetables tends to screen
:L"..w. in the caterer. With
the advent of hot weather, however, in
telligent preparation 01 mo ,
come, of great importance: rich meals
TELEPHONE DISGUISED
TO FIT ENVIRONMENT
Dainty Contrivances Used in Boudoir, Living-room or Library, Inclosing
Businesslike Machine or Screening It From View.
. . . . 1.1. fn hide the
IX Is iasniouauii- "
businesslike telephone from view
when It stands In a room handsome
ly furnished. For the boudoir there
are all sorts of contrivances for dis
guising the telephone: dainty screens
of French rococo gilt with Watteau
silk panels, and even gay dolls Imi
tating Colonial dames In -spreading
itfiiaa1r urn t
she was one of the beauties of New
York and Washington society.
e
Mrs. Lorillard Spencer is one of the
most active of Newport hostesses this
season. She Is a daughter-in-law of
the Mrs. Lorillard Spencer, who went
to the Philippines some time ago to
do missionary work. v
Edna Goodrich, former wife of Nat
Goodwin, has arrived in New York,
bringing- with her "Hoko." her Jap
anese spaniel, which has distinction
of being acknowledged the smallest
dog in the world. Miss Goodrich served
as a Red Cross nurse with the Belgian
and monotony in meals are to be
avoided.
The houswife must remember that
the appetite needs to be tempted in
warm weather and that, in the interest
of health, a meal must be carefully
balanced.
The use of fat and starch should be
limited. The Summer diet should not
exclude these Important food factors,
but it is easy to use too much of the
heat-producing materials.
Tork. beans, potatoes, rice, creamed
cabbage, heavy puddings, etc., are not
well adapted to hot weather diet. The
requisite amount of starch, sugar and
fat can be introduced in a more tempt
ing and digestible form. For ex
ample, if the day is very warm and
your dinner contains meat that is rich
in protein and vegetables and a cold
soup that is high in water, supply the
fat in a salad oil a salad with a
mayonnaise dressing is tempting even
in hot weather and the starch in some
vegetable such as peas or green beans.
This will give you a balanced ration
that will not appear heavy and will be
palatable even in the hottest weather.
Butter, salad oils and creams always
can be used on the table without of
fense even in midsummer, and are a
valuable addition to the light foods
that are most likely to tempt the ap
petite. Mousses, iced coffee with whipped
cream, stewed fruits with cream and
cream soups offer pleasant means of
introducing cream in the hot weather
menu. Oil can be introduced in either
French mayonnaise or tartare dress
ings, and good butter, like good wine,
needs no bush. 1
Fish if fresh is an excellent dish
for Summer. It is rich in protein and
is easy of digestion for the average
person. The southern Italians, the
Greeks and the Turks eat a great deal
of fish cooked in oil, and if they find
it wholesome as a warm weather diet
there is no reason why we should not
find it so.
Week-End Hostess' Success
Is Due to System.
Everything Planned Carefully in Ad
vance Makes Entertaining De
lightful and '.Hospitality Ia Per
fectly Expressed.
TO SOME women "company" is a
dreadful burden, to be endured he
roically when obligations are to be paid
off, and undertaker. Only from a stern
sense of duty. , Other women seem to
delight In entertaining and apparently
have as good a tim,e as the guests who
have nothing to do but enjoy the pro
gramme prepared for them.
Every housekeeper knows that in a
small household where only one or two
maids are kept several guests over
Sunday mean a great deal of work
manual labor for the domestics and
head work and responsibility for the
silken petticoats which hide the tele
phone Beneath their ample folds.
Here Is a telephone cover for a
stately living-room or library: a mas
sive ornament of art bronze in verde
finish representing a globe upheld by
dancing figrures. The globe and standard
open on invisible hinges and the tele
phone may be slipped inside or brought
out speedily when its imperious bell
summons
division for seven weeks, and did a
lot of relief work in r ranee on her
own initiative. While in France she
saw a great deal of the Canadian
soldiers and she was impressed to see
these "magnificent specimens of man
hood, who had been woundeu, begging
to be cured in order to go back to the
front."
...
Archduchess Maria Theresa is the
mother of the heir to the throne of
Austria. Archduke Carl Frans Josef.
While her son is at the front she Is
acting as a Red Cross nurse In her
palace in Vienna, which has been
turned into a hospital.
hostess. If things are to go smoothly
and hospitality is to be perfectly ex
pressed, somebody has got to do a deal
of thinking, planning and preparing
beforehand and this somebody is, nat
urally, the housekeeper and hostess.
One little woman whose delightful
Summer cottage is filled every week
end with a Jolly party, seems to enter
tain without the least effort. Every
thing goes like clockwork; meals are
delicious and perfectly served, and the
hostess herself appears to have plenty
of time to play tennis, go in swimming
and spend long hours out in the sail
boat But 'the clockwork has been care
fully wound up and oiled beforehand.
This same hostess spends hours pre
paring for her week-end guests; but
all her preparing is done on the couch
in her breezy sitting-room, a pad and
pencil in her lap. After the last batch
of week-enders have departed, the
house is thoroughly cleaned and put in
order, so that nothing but dusting and
remaking of beds will be necessary on
Friday. A complete rtst of menus for
Friday, Saturday, Sunday and1 Monday
morning is made out. and duplicate
lists are typewritten and tacked up in
the kitchen. . Thursday the hostess and
her cook go over the list and every
thing that will be needed Is ordered by
telephone from .tradesmen; and per
haps the secret underlying the perfect
success of this little woman's delight
ful week-end parties is the fact that
both cook and parlor maid know be
forehand that for every guest in the
house, and for every day that guest re
mains, there will be a certain, stipu
lated bonus to be paid when the month
ly wage is paid.
Fortune in Bolivia Tin.
Indianapolis News.
Bolivia should profit immensely by
the British embargo on tin. In that
South American mountain Republic are
tin mines of a remarkable richness, and
railroad connection with the Argentine
Republic has recently been completed.
These same mines were producing for
tunes in silver before the first Pilgrim
landed In New England.
TODAY'S BEAUTY
SUGGESTIONS
Face powder simply covers up an
unattractive complexion and leaves no
lasting benefits. Those who have tried
a simple spurmax face lotion find it
much better, as it removes skin dis
coloratlons, such as freckles and tan,
and makes the skin smooth, white and
velvety. This lotion is made by dis
solving four ounces of spurmax in one
half pint hot water, then adding two
teaspoonfuls glycerin. This complex
ion beautifier does not rub off or show
like powder, and gives a more refined
appearance. It removes both shininess
and sallowness, rapidly giving the skin
a perrrnent, healthy, youthful appear
ance. An especially fine shampoo for this
weather can be had at trifling expense
by dissolving a teaspoonful of can
throx in a cup of hot water. Pour slow
ly on scalp and massage briskly. This
creates a soothing, cooling lather that
dissolves and removes all dandruff, ex
cess oil and dirt. Rinsing leaves the
scalp spotlessly clean, soft and pliant,
while the hair takes on a glossy rich
ness of natural rolor. also a tluffiness
which makes It seem very much heavier
than it is. After a canthrox shampoo
arranging the hair is a pleasure. Adv,