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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 18, 1915)
lO HOQUIAM'S DREAM OF GOOD ROADS IS COMING TRUE AFTER 25 YEARS Beautiful Quiniault Valley, Playground of Gods, at Last to Have Access, to Surrounding Country by Means of Highways to Magnificent Olympics, Which Rear Loftily on All Sides. f 1 - 6.- "-:- itstf-sS-iXfy -yiJrttt- "v"miT ltit,ifiYiaiiiiTiiTn'i'i HOQUIAil, AVafeh., July 17. (Spe- cial.) At last, arter a quarter or a century, a dream of Hoquiam and a dream of a little band of pioneers who went far into the "Big Forest" to make their homes, has come to pass. At last a road Is opened to Lake Quin iault and the Quiniault Valley beyond, a playground for the gods, and the com ing Summer what are left of those pio neers of a quarter century ago, and those who followed them in later years to the valley will reap their reward. The Quiniault road is a section of the Olympic highway, which, when com pleted, will encircle the Olympic Pen insula. The last 20 miles of this road has been built by state and county funds. While the work is not yet com pleted, the road will be finished and in excellent shape, on a par with any road in Chehalis County, by early Sum. mer. Work on the last 20 miles of the road from Hoquiam to the lake, the sec tion between Humptulips City and Quiniault, was begun during the Sum mer of 1913, with county funds, under contracts which covered the first half of the distance. Early in the Spring of 1914, when, money from the state highway fund appropriated for the road became available, contracts for the re maining distance were let and work was immediately begun on the last sec tion and on finishing the portion begun the year before. All Speed to lie Made, Construction work was not entirely completed last Fall, but already crews have been sent in and are at work on the highway, and the county officials are demanding all speed be used in finishing the road. A short section of grading remains to be done, and several miles of graveling, but both parts of the work will be rushed, as all equip ment is on the ground. The section to be graded is all cleared and the grad ing is a matter of only a few weeks. For the graveling machinery and tools are on the ground and everything is in shape to keep things moving steadily and rapidly. It is estimated , the road will be completed, rolled and packed and in excellent shape for automobile travel by the middle of June or by July 1 at thelatest. Completion of the road opens up to travel, to the visitor who does not. care for the arduous trip on foot or horse back over poor trails, one of the beauty spots of the Olympic Peninsula, and un doubtedly one of the finest Summer re eorts in the Northwest. It opens to the world, to the automobile of the tourist, the automobile of the rancher or busi ness man, and to the automobile stage a remarkable valley, beautiful In its natural scenery, notable for the rich ness of the soil of the valley, and a paradise tor the sportsman, the man v'ho seeks his recreation either by mountain climbing, by boat on the lake, in guiding an Indian dugout canoe through the swirling rapids of the . ....... ii . . ' - i r i " " 1 1 1 J ' 1 1 1 IT BLI fiiJIJ with rod and fly and delights to battle with the agile and hard-fighting trout Lake Set Amldnt Mountain. Lake Quiniault, more than three miles long and nearly as wide, with a depth variously placed at from 400 to 60 feet. Is situated in the edge of the mysta '.ous Olympic Mountains, at the eastern apex of the triangle of the Quiniault Indian reservation, virtually it is surrounded on three sides by the Olympic 'Moun tains, for on both the northwest and southeast sides a range of mountains rises from the water's edge. At the upper end of the lake the valley spreads out, but the river bends sharply to the east a couple of miles above the lake and the mountains "thus shut in the third Fide. At the lower end the moun t p ti a drop away suddenly ' and the - ' r r-s. - f-- 1 LrA&tfpSAVk I I X . x ...xnmiminf.n-aiw.,,. ,... .. ;. , . r y , fJ ...A'.J i fc .: . el- tv. .-' w.'i' - Vi.ip!,- " " ' '1 I : : . .. . - . .. . T r SOfsipr y-r-occ 6 , r - ' :vl Yi country spreads out in a wide plain, on which grows probably the greatest stand of cedar, spruce and fir in the united States, and the Lower Quiniault River, issuing from the lake, races down a canyon cut through this forest, to the ocean some 30-odd miles away by tne river course. For nearly 15 miles above the lake the Upper Quiniault River flows through a valley varying in width from a few hundred yards for a short dis tance at one place, to about three miles, and for the greater part of the distance is better than two miles wide. This valley is remarkably fertile, and pro jected as it is. forms one of the best aisincis m tne southwest section of the state for growing produce. Neither the cold breezes from the ocean, early or late frosts bother, and while in many of the lower sections affected by the breeze from the Pacific tomatoes or corn do not ripen, these grow splen didly in the Quiniault Valley. It also Is an excellent place for fruitgrowing, and the ranchers produce apples and small fruit of unexcelled quality and flavor. In addition to thi3. the yields are such as to stagger belief. Elk and Bear Found. The south fork of the Quiniault and Its branches come In from' the east, from the- divide running south-southwest from the apex of the range. Mount Olympus, while the north fork comes down from Mount Queets. From the lake one can take an early start and if he is a good, strong-traveler and knows his way or has a guide, he can camp the same evening on the top of the divide, in the shadow of Queets Peak and in the beautiful park coun try of the Olympics. A fair trail leads from the road in the upper valley up the side of the divide until it strikes the park country. And this park coun try Is something to wonder at. It con sists of series of prairies ranging In size from a few acres to a thousand or more acres, covered with rank grass in the Summer time, and dotted with small lakes and cut across with pure, cold, mountain streams. These areas, the park country, are not above timber line, but lie along the tops of the di vides or spurs. Here the elk feed, and if one is fortunate enough to come out to the edge of one of these prairies just as the morning sun is about to y - a -1: - scatter the mist on the snow-capped peaks to the east, just as it breaks through that wondrous haze of crim son, and if it is berry season, the chances are good he will see a big black bear, and possibly several. leer ing around the edges of the prairie. Al together it is a trip worth taking. tne trip to the park country. nen one has reached the park cotin try. then he has only a few miles far ther to go until he is at the top of the aiviae. wnere tne country slopes In all directions, where the Klewah. flowing norm into the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and one branch of the Quiniault. flow ing south and later into the Pacific, sian iron two little lakes within a quarter of a mile of each other. Above him wiU tower Queets peak, and oft to relief - the three peaks of Mount Olympus, the highest mountain of the Olympics, and the apex of the range, snowcapped and glacier crusted. Rocky CrB Challenge. Or yet another mountain-climbing trip worth while for the visitor ai Lake Quiniault is up the South Fork to the canyon, one of the grandest in the Olympics. For six miles the river plunges through a gorge ranging in depth from 100 to 1000 feet, with walls nearly perpendicular. Then a closer attraction still is Mount Bald. stand lng a short distance back from tne lake. Its great crag of a rocky ton looks down and seems to challenge you to come and climb it. Here again there Is the perpetual snow. Ranchers of the Quiniault Valley are wont to hold an annual picnic on the Fourth of July, which everybody is expected to attend, and it is a yearly custom to send a couple of volunteers to climb Mount Baldy and bring back in packs on their backs enough snow to make Ice cream for the picnic crowd. Mount Baldy offers enough hard work, enough danger and excitement to give the amateur mountain climber several real thrills. From the top of Baldy It is said the lights of Hoquiam can be seen on clear night. Lake Quiniault bears the distinction of being one of the few mountain lakes in which one can go swimming and enjoy it. The upper end of the lake slopes off gradually for several hun- ; dred feet, with a beautiful sandy bot U 'ill torn, and here the water warms in the Summertime sufficiently to make swim ming: in It a. Joy. Streams A bo u d In Trn1. After IS miles through the virgin forest, with the trees standing so close the sun never shines on the under growth, the Quiniault road audaenly emerges from the woods and one Is standing at the shore of the sparkling, brimming lake, surrounded on every side by the unbroken mantle of the green of the forest. It is an impres sive sight. Then the road skirts the lake for three miles, past one of the hotels, then on up the valley for sev eral miles further. Across the lake. at the upper end Is another hotel, built of logs. 40 by 44 feet In ground dimen sions, and four stories in height. Besides the Upper and Lower Quiniaults a number of smaller streams or creeks flow into the lake and all abound in trout. One can either have a try with rod and fly for the cut throat, or he can take a boat and go out on the lake to troll for lake trout, steel head or Dolly Varden. Either will give him plenty of sport, for there are no end of nsh, and he will return with an appetite he would never recognize at home. Xew Rontl IVrnairat Completion of the Quiniault road puts Quiniault Lake only hours drive from Hoquiam by three auto mobile, and then the driving would not be fast, for the distance in only 43 miles with practically no hills and an ex- tcellent graveled road all of the way , j lie new i unt in unnK uulll lor permanency, and when It is completed It will be ready for travel, and will need little packing before it is easy Kolng. The right of way la cleared full 63 feet; the road is graded and rolled; then a layer of crushed rock is put on and rolled and on top of that is a dressing of creek gravel and again it Is rolled. No better piece of road construction than this has been done in Chehalis County, famed for its good roads. Twenty-five years ago this Spring the first settlers, four or five families, made their way into the Quiniault Valley. They had heard of it from prospectors or cruisers and despite the fact it was shut in then by 45 miles of dense forest, they went, took up homesteads and settled there. At first their only means of ingress and egress was up and down the Quiniault Illver from the ndian town of Taholah by canoe. It ook two days to pole a canoe loaded with freight up the river and one can come down in about six hours, but he goes some coming down. From Taholah these settlers freighted up and down the beach to n. point opposite North Hay on Grays Harbor and then crossed to the harbor and were brought nto Hoquiam by boat. Later a trail not a horse trail but a trail for men, and strong men at that, was cut hrough the woods to Humptulips city. o which a puncneon and dirt road had been built. Dream Cornea True. Then gradually this became a better rail and then a bad plce of puncheon road, and thus it. remained for many years, while the hardy settlers, those who went tirst and those, who had olned them in the valley later, begged. cajoled, threatened, prayed for a road and at last they have it. too tne dream of a quarter of a cen tury, the dream of Hoquiam and of the pioneers, has come true. - The settlers have a way out for their produce, and this year will see a great procession of automobiles racing over this boule vard through the "big forest" to this beautiful resort, from Hoquiam to the ake and back again only to repeat the trip, home people and visitors. EARLY DRAMA RECALLED (Continued From V tion. Kodcrigo, Cassio, Brabantio and Montano were all experienced profes sionals and here were Othello, Iago, Desdemona and. Emilia who had never Walked the boards before. There was a pretty good advance sale of tickets and eomeway the Mayor had unfortunately taken It into his head to take a box thut'night. When I heard of the Mayor's Intention I was on- the verge of collapse. Stage fright (and there is nothing more awful) had me already in its paralyzing grip. Cassio. Roderigo and Brabantio. having thoroughly aroused, tried to take the rehearsal in hand, but Othello and Iago, swimming delightfully in their own blissful conceit, politely as they could told them to mind their own business, that they themselves were managers and financiers of the company, and would take directions from nobody. Well, the fateful night arrlveJ. The house was full, unfortunately. Iesie- ona and 1 dressed together. Juse before the curtain rose Mr. I (Othello) knocked at our door and said I want you to tell me how I look." He had already been to Miss C. She was very near sighted and had told hi in he looked splendidly. We were pretty green, but knew "makeup, especWilly for character parts, was an art. Poor Mr.' J. had made the unfortunate Othello a mottled creature who really looked ridiculous. CoMtumea Rich and Klrtaal. The costumes supplied were rich and elegant. Miss C.'a In particular. Money was then no object and she meant to spend it lavishly on her de sired climb to the temple of fame. She was possessed of a very thin pair ot legs and was not aware that plump calves were obtainable and always used when nature had left a deficiency Her full trunks made the thinness of her extremities more obvious. She had left off her glasses and. being near sighted, had a bad squint. When the stars made their entrances the house was convulsed and gradually lost control of itself till Othello and Iago were not allowed to be heard Behind the. scenes everybody was up set. Our professionals implored Liesde mona and me to arouse, to do our best. . They encouraged me, and when my entrance came gave me a farewell pat on the shoulder. Dcsdemona and saved the piece, they claimed, she with her beauty, and I with my tremendous earnestneits. Fortunately. I did not then know how entirely bad our prln cipals were and with the disrespect ful . treatment the audience accorded them my sympathy for them grew. thought, no matter" ho poor their act lng. they should not he Insulted, and as this feeling grew my stage fright began to disappear. Liberal Applause on In Role. Kmllia has nothing to do for th first two acts except to follow Deade mona as a silent companion, but when her lines begin from that time on she with Othello, largely carries tho piece. A ell I went Into It with my who soul. I had no stage technique but was mad clear through and that helped the part. The tide turned and afte that at least proper respect was show the unfortunate stars. I received round after round of applause. 1 di not know what It meant until Cassio, who stood beside me. and who ha done so much to help me. whispered "you have saved the piece, bow." I did but I am sure It must have been a awkward bow. The papers next morning said tha the minor performers were the stars and that the stars had better hide the! lights under a bushel and not emerge again, or something like that. The next morning! O! what a morn ing for our principals. The colossa pride and overweening confidence of the night before had shrunk like balloon when the, gas ooses out of I Their extreme humiliation was pltia ble. The next day they appealed to Cassio and Rcderigo and Brabantio This trio, despised the day before, ha risen to great prominence now. -They kindly called a rehearsal : taught us stage business, etc. The taught Othello how to make up. an Iago had a little lesson In padding nereas jd.r, J, ana C. were poo START SOON TO BE MADE TO MAKE SIUSLAW VALLEY REAL WONDERLAND Three Lumbering Companies With 2.000.000.000 Feet Each and Boom Facilities and Mill Sites Ready to Hir 10.000 Men Grazing and Farm Land and Fisheries There, Too. 3.-:',n:''!m :.-: ''::';-,v,. . -r' . - i LT W". 3- C-WJ 7Sr to c irate. tAr J ' --n7mm Gai-rS&of rf 77rousjar?cf. I Txe-Uf'TOnrf- Alom ""Jy,. i'aannnamnM ' TrrcJ Of 773 z7y,ct io ?gjnanaBansmmm4 ELUL.NE. Or.. July 17. (Special.) Lumbering on a. scale that wilt startle the entire Pacific Northwest awaits western Lane County with the first algn of returning markets, accord ing to lumbermen with upwards of $1. 000.000 tied up in the Sluslaw Valley. Claiming to have the most advantageous cutting and milling facilities in the State of Oregon, three companies, each Willi 2.000.0U0.000 feet of Kiusiaw tim ber, holding mtllsltes and boom facili ties and prepared to employ from 6004 to 10,000 men, are waiting the order so. Imagine 34.000.000.000 feet of uncut lumber stacked up on end on the edec of a river ao Ideal for logging as to mean absoltuely free log transporta tion. Already built and ready for use on this river is the largest storas-e log ooom on inn l acinc toast. An (8.000.. 000 railroad stands completed through the center of It all and a deep-water harbor, with 35 miles of waterfront for oceangoing vessels, forms not onli competitive terminal transportation fa cilities, but outlets to the entire globe. io tnts aud lou.ooo acrea or so of grazing land, luxurious In a climate that means free feed for cattle the year around anil an ever-moist soil awaiting a $1,000,000 truck, berry and fruit In dustry, and a commerce in fish that. witnout refrigerator transportation until now, has been paying $50,000 an nual wa;es. On top of this add a climate that makes life a recreation, that tullds forests 1000 feet an acre a year and add a combination of mountain lakes and 34 miles of hard sand beaches, all with in a few hours' rail ride of the me tropolis of Cfregon. This is not the dream of a profes sional promoter. It is the Siuslaw Valley, a buttled region that waa for mally uncorked last week with the three-day Rhododendron Festival at Florence, marking tho arrival of tho railroad. Some la Xot Seen. Tho several hundred excursionists from the Willamette Valley wlio echoed down the narrow Sluslaw last Saturday and Sunday past mile af ter mile of plledrlven log boom, did not see It all, for the Sterrett 4c Hovev Timber Company, owners, has built a canal through from the main river and has closed up at the outlet a long arm of the river, forming a storage boom lor Z00.000.000 feet of logs at one time, more than can be held In any such de vice in the United States. The Siuslaw River is said to be the best log-driving stream In the world. Fewer logs hang up along the way. It has a rock bottom and the banks are straight and narrow. its secret Is this: Logs can be run on the crest of a freshet. On nearly very other river In the world this is impossible not that the logs cannot be run. but that there Is no way to stop them from go ing direct to the sea on the flood. On all other rivers but the Sluslaw It li customary to run the logs on a falling water, with a Jam crew working In front to prevent the logs Jamming and a sacking crew following to pick up the stragglers. The Sluslaw never Jams; it has never seen a sacking crew. Thirty million feet of logs cam down last year with out loss. One driver says that he has run logs for 23 years without expend ing $100 to get the logs down. They are dumped Into the river at any time of the year rollways are not necessary and they Just come. No dams nor flush ing systems are needed. "It Is simpler than logging on the old Michigan streams." said H. A. Sterrett. of the firm of Sterrett & Hovey, "ex cept that the logs are larger. Donkey engines must be used Instead of horses. On the Sluslaw the timber has never been cut back from the river. "There Is a railroad paralleling the pie of culture, they each were wholly destitute of the dramatic temperament, they had no more emotion than a wood saw : It waa not there, and con sequently could not be brought forth, work as hard as our much-abused act ors could. Ambition without the nec essary talent or genius Is a sorry pos session. Xettronra Llnea Sever filvru. Othello and Iago had been boiled down and refined some so they could go through without Inciting a riot. We had two plays in our repertoire, "Othello" and "Lucretla Rorgla." a ter rible play full of coffins, poison and daggers. However, great feminine stars played It. and Miss C. wished to show her self In a woman's part. Of course, aa before, she read h er lines like a schoolboy. In Lucretla Borgia I waa cast for Prlncesa Negroni, V river. that when a milt needs special sizes turlng the Summer months. It merely phones the dimensions to the camps. "The lumber Industry on the Sluslaw has mad,' a wonderful development In the last .Vw years. Formerly only the lightest torts could enter the harbor and a poOi- wagon road came from thj Interior. NW It hits the best railroad, a good har or for the large ships, and It has booming facilities on tidewater for any quaalttiy of logs." Company ' One of Four lloldera. The SterretM. & Hovey Company Is but one of ftni r large holders. Tha Wendling Johnson Company, also with from a billion ai d a half to two billion feet, has a mill site on the railroad above Acme larga enough for the big gest sawmill In the world. It covers 3o acres. Porter .Mros.. holding a sim ilar amount of timber, is already op erating its mill lit Florence, with a daily capacity of ne.irly lou.OOi) feet, employing about 20V men. A 25.000-foot-capacity mill is Ieing oprnted at Point Terrace by lul Shlllerstrom. and the Saubert mill and the Wendling Johnson present mill .t Aran are both larger. The fishing industry Ka older than the lumber. Florence packed 10.0O0 cases last year: and it has dou' so for many years. Some years the ex tire p.tck re mained unsold because r bout could cross the bar to take the' fish to mar ket. Today the refrigerator tar brings the fish directly to market,, and a 23 foot bar makes shipping nA longer an uncertainty. The halibut tbdilng is a new Industry on the SiuslaM now be ing tried. arMl.owo Spent on Jctfi . T'p to the present time mwj re than $500,000 has been spent on the Siuslaw Jetty and contracts are belngr adver tised for additional work to cost more than $250,000. The farmer has his place on tlte Slus law River as well as th ilmLerman and the fisherman. Dairying comes second among the Industries a.vl It. too. Is not yet scratched. W. K. Wise, a farmer residing above tidewater, experimented a year ago to determine whether hogs can live on ite Siuslaw without being, fed. the wvty cattle have done. His band of seve.lU hundred animal prospered In thecretVt bottoms. A few weeks" feeding wi fatten them for the market at any time and they are sleek, clean animals., entirely unlike the barnyard variety. Mr. Wise markets garden truck Ions before the Willamette Valley farmers are ready: the mild coast country and the railroad make this possible. Valley la Narmt, The Sluslaw Is a narrow valley. Every entering feeder appears to he narrow, but these creeks run back for miles and miles and they grow witter and wider as they run back, leaving thousands of acres of sheltered valleys. These valleys exhibit two classes of people, the new and the old. "Sluslaw people are Independent." exclaimed J. R. McKenzie. Forest Su pervisor at Florence, several years ago. referring to the old type. "They are so I waa the only other woman in the play. I had only about three lines to speak. I had to leave a banquet table, come down the center and say a few words to Maffio. When I reached the center of the stage my lines left me utterly. I could not catch the word from the prompter and I f imply stood and f tared. perfectly frozen with fright. But good, kind Maffio came to my rescue. noke my lines and his. and I "went back to the banquet table, as the etase business called for. and made my hurried eit with the others. 1 always went through Knulia well and. as the actors said, "with growing ex cellence." but I do not think 1 ever got Negronfs lines or ever said them prop erly. This often occurs, a player will balk on a part of Just a line or twr. and then go straight through a much longer role. t I'tfu.uHt 5 2J Independent that they won't work. Ther plant a few spud, raise some truck and milk their cow. In the Ka'.l they go out and r;itrli enough salmon to buy tlour and a few clothes and then they go Into the hills and shoot deer and bear." T; p la Paasloa. This Is a passing class, but 'a class that Is hindering the development by holding land. Individuals with 300 t TOO aires of bottom land are not tempted by high price.. The railroad paid one man $!2.00 for 100 acrea alnnir Its right of way. "Why should I sell; I don't want to leave." said one man refusing $2500 for SO acres. "It's too easy to live here." . The new type of farmer, though. Is E. It. McCorinu k, who picked up for a song a quantity c-f raw land that, be fore he cleared and dyked it, would not support 20 cows. Now it has more than 200 cows and lie h;ts increased his net Income from $500 to $tono a year. He sella to the City of Flor ence alone 150 uuart of milk a day and sells more than $150 worth of pura cream each week. Pure-lllooded Herd Tlanned. He is weeding out his poor cattle and Is substituting pure. registered Jerseys. This marks a new movement among the Siuslaw dairymen, long ac customed to accept the wealth of the new country without betterment. He fetds his cattle pasture grass, supplemented occasionally hy rutaba gas and mnncletl beets. He believes that the time will come when these roots and red t lover will form the feed of the dairy cows on the Siuslaw. At present the Siuslaw has a co operative creamery, shipping from IS. 000 to lS.eoo pounds or Duller a month. It w ill ship ne.irly $50.0oo worth this year. It is supplied by more than S00 cows and pays 24 rents for bulterfat. The skim milk is fed to calves and pigs. All the dairymen are working to Im prove their herds, many bringing In funcy Holstein and other breeds." It Is So Easy To Remove All Jtching Skin trouble With QiticuraSoap And Ointment TRIAL FREE Just bat.j e thcaffected surface with Cuvticura Soap and hot water, dry and apply Cuti cura Ointment. Relief in most eases is immediate and healment romplete, speedy and permanent. Cvtletira np and Ointment until i mi ji an a LThrl ammre ot etc! I -uitetl trmc wttb koan. aaoraat pg-car4 "Uv n ora," Xtaot. 9. Boston,