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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 4, 1915)
T11K STTNDAY OTtEGONTAX, POKTIiAXD. JULY 4, 1915. 3 ! - .NpJ. HffV I ?f Wl -Wn vk- a .1 III! ..-.., avt- ,. ' m X n. a -mm M m r mi - mt- . mm M 1 M r m aj ' -. . , saa. 1 aTBt-" ; - a t0 - I r gtefeA x&&ft " jAt-A I ft A I WIS UBJThi I "''"'iZh 1 v .! A W' .v ill r Ai l.4 ? rf-; ! f Kfl f lit: : : li - f 5 Is'' ' t . ' i . I WrV ItvovV 'JAYvm -rt jfvJ - ' . - . . -- j j- v rp- &7rz.-z:2?L JAW C - '.J x Ml up. "I have made mantles lined with S"! CIk- V " '"' 'v r- V black fox tor 120.000. but not recently 7JC1 Vr 5 2? V Xl' i ''-"';V? i T If T for men. Even astrakhan has cone Ji&f' 'M -- L yT ' -J' C x' '"fc greatly In the last fire years. A Ion flLPFl1 (ZJ VV t""' ' VS," I coat may cost from g00 to J1000." f 71 1 tfj. ZZ fcr X - f ! jfc toward - r- t-WSw4 ; . . . W ' ' V -J I sCfy squirrel are th BT STERLrNG HEILIG. PARIS screaming styles are In the air . for Autumn. (This Is no fashion article, but, rather, socio logical, aesthetic, sporting1 and In dustrial. If you take me, with a dash of natural history and Judicious in quiry why they do it). Dressy office girls are liable to go down town in. shoulder capes, with falling tabs as big as aprons, banded broad with wait, I'll tell you. Struggling wives will stroll to moving pictures In cape coats, humped, flounced, puffing, striped and bordered with wide bands of patience, it's a new fur. And, I tell you, schoolgirls, shop- Which makes the second ste the "trimming" craze. The dye brush. Real black fox is only used for stoles, muffs and parures. He brought out two such stoles, lovely, lustrous black. I chose the most beautiful. It proved to be a "lustre," artificial, worth 50. The other, exactly like it but which I had thought slightly less beautiful girls, rich girls, poor old ladies with wa a natural black fox. worth 150001 no back teeth, blooming brides of lucky business men will spread them selves in hip jackets with standing collars, spotted like a pard: or long straight coats, yoked, flounced with scollops, ruffed with weazel: or shaped coats of brocade, flaring, swelling, flanked "with rolling ermine cuffs on flowing sleeves, vast square-cut ermine collars, and. and. and Vladimir Grunwaldt told me.' He said: "It is not our fault!" Especially the little dogs, cats, rats and rabbits. It is almost paradoxic. "Rich American women set the pace," ke said, "by loving only beautiful things." (This Is the rue de la Paix. ural or tho remember.) He showed me littla silvers de la Paix sables, the most precious in the world, worth $1000 per skin. They were almost a dull reddish-brown, "with little white hairs." "Or these,"' Vladi mir continued, " "much the same, with darker lines down the back, which I prefer. A mantle or long coat re quires 100 to 115 skins. You can have beautiful, natural dark skins from $280 apiece (good, not extra) to $800. $900 and so on (for extra), and down to $80 or $100 for cheap. A child can calcu late it. 51 me. Vanderbilt had one made. 12 years ago, for $30,000. Today, it would be worth double." You Bee, It is a e'"s, even for the rich. Appreciating the beauty of "only the best." they hesitate at a sables coat that costs $80,000 to $100,000. It makes the first step toward the trim ming craze. xnese Deautilul sables are not used Ten dyed black foxes are sold for one natural one," said M. de Lamarre. "even to rich women. The difference of price is so great and the dyed prod uct so beautiful. You take the Canada red fox, which used to be considered trash. You do not tip it nothing common, like that! the right process is to touch it with the dye brush. Marvellous production! Only the ex perienced eye can tell it from the precious skin. Ah, the dye brush!" This is the rue de la Paix, Paris. This Is the famous Grunwaldt con cern, most expensive furriers in the world, in four capitals. You pay your money and taUe your choice the nat- "'istre." But If the rue is forced to praise the dye brush, what shall it not be with the others? ' Take a skin of which America Is king the seal. "The most beautiful seals are Alas kan," said Vladimir, "and your Gov ernment takes care of them. The hunt ionable women, who pay storage is restricted, and only the American insurance through the Summer, gives a charming product, and the rusty dock rat. except that his skin is tender, not to mention river rata of South America, so plentiful that a man has invented a machine to skin them automatically. "Wonderful dye brush! The real seal must. Invariably, be dyed. Why not the rat seal? Is It beautiful? Yes. Is it durable? Almost. These questions - answered, the ad vantage of price strikes the modern woman. A large sum invested In a single gar ment Is a risk. "How avoid moth?" I asked. "Perfumes!" blurted out a man who stood there. "Ask Guerlain." Vladimir admitted, simply, the ex istence or rur perfumes, as such "Women like them." he said, are not many." "How avoid moths?" I repeated. "Insure!" laughed Vladimir Grunwaldt. Such. Indeed, is the practice of fash- nd ladies know or care In York? Fur trimming! furs for trimmings. Not to mention skunk. "The skunk comes from America," said M. de Lamarre. "We used to buy them for $1 or $3 per skin. Today they Paris or New are worth up to $20 per skin." Evidently th say) will find e-extremely fashionable Grunwaldt, "the Imitation Is beautiful. Do not imagine, for a moment, that the house of Urunwaldt deals In It- I tell you because you ask me. It Is a world current But flying-squirrel (you say) itself Is almost dear. Piroon. flylng-squir- struggling wife (you rel can be made fro:n the long-haired skunk trimming dear? Orinoco rat. The river swarms with The hour has struck, and women will No. It Is in the reach of all. Skunk them from Brasil to the Argentine, have It! - trimming is made from flylng-squir- But (you ay) dun't they need those Ermine. chinchilla, sables' tails, reL rats for sealskins? Pardon, sealskin putols (fitch), light fox and flying- "When well worked." says Vladimir can be ilio msdi from rabbit. Kabbit sealskin has a softness and a lustre all Its own. And should a schoolgirl need more skunk, it Is made from the Euro pean marmot, not to mention the Amer ican opossum. (The American opossum comes entirely from Australia.) Moleskin Is a highly fashionable trimming. Moleskin Is beautiful and fairly ex pensive; yet you will e bsnds of moleskin three deep on the yoked cost of the flower-faced shopgirl. How? Why? They make moleskin' out of little dogs. And rabbits. (Rabbits will be busy. Ermine ruffs, square-falling collars, ermine cuffs and edgings lend a purity and freshness to young beauty. Ermine Is expensive. It Is an emblem of pur ity and honor without stain. From the Middle Aim, It has gsrbed royalty and the Judges of men. Ermine Is made from the white do mestic rat. The product is completely beautiful. Fo the proud woman, with her wealth (you say) must fall bark on chinchilla. It Is the choicest of Indoor furs. No other so resembles the finest plumage of downy-feathered birds as the skin of the little mourn of the Andes. It becomes rarer and more costly each year. Chinchilla trimming Is Die sp panage of the rich. Pardon. It is hard to be exclusive, these days. Girls who want to hold your heads up. ask for Asiatic chinchilla! Here we have no imitation. They are real chinchilla mice, except that they come from the Himalayas. Thibet. Mongolia. Siberia. Exactly, t'.iey are very tiny rats. The Hulins who discovered them counted on mak ing millions. The supply Is great; but. unfortunately (or fortunately) ti er have to be "worked ti Imitate their rich relations of the Andes; snd "work ing is artificial. So (It looks! the vast slock which Is piling up In UusMa will delight the modest purses of good women. Heart up! Everyone shall have fur trimming. striped anJ scbra-ed. banded. cg-d and spotted, tabbed and e -d. yoked. flounced, collared, ruffed end borJer-J, the good women will diport them selves In new shapes, humped and puff ing, shoulder-csped, hip-Jacketed and scalloped, long linen vertically pltarJ. what do I know? They are silhouettes adapted to fur trimmings. "Nutty." I said, quitting the great Paris house of real furs. "Nut-tie?" repeated Vladimir, "but beau-tl-ful. My gyrr.pathlee are with all women. I am glad that they shall have fur trimmings." Canada tlrr 11 an flf7.uuO.uOo f.rodurta are orth more r. )tar. LURE OF EASY MONEY THE SPANISH PRISONER HOAX (Continued from Pana 3) a Russian was Introduced, but habitat still remained In Epainw business man of New York received "There & 'ettr signed by one Blavsky, which which I have a paper Indispensable for several encea, and I beseech you to come to time Scotland Yard man who bad been the Havana and lift the attachment on my appointed to the Barcelona beadquar A baggage, so you may acquire the se- ters. arrested a band at whose lodgings curltles and cash within the same. In were found address books, written in languages, containing the ran: I beg you to help me obtain a your possessing $330,000 which I have names of thousands of persons, with sum of $180,000 I have In America and In the United States. In return I will a minute description of their babtts. to come here to raise the seizure of give you one-third of It. or $110,000. character and family history and my baggage by paying to the registrar In fear that this letter may not reach financial standing. of the court the expenses of ray trial you. I shall not sign my name. It is It was thought that this time the and the recovery of my portmanteau, impossible to receive your answer In real Spanish "prisoner" had been cap containing - securities In the pocket nrlaon. so If vou will send a draft lured, but It turned out that the Der- never , ... . ... . seal may enter America. We used to keeping their furs at home. Naturally ' T ", , ' " ,J7 TK to person In my conridence. wno will sons caugnt in me raia were oruy ...... i .r .w- w . .. '' ward I will give you one-third part, .nt it In entire safety and in great agents. A few n-onths later a Spaniard gram to a person of my confidence. for coats, or only exceptionally," said lionaire. You take a rat tne son of the Grunwaldts, "but rather other, and another, and for stoles, muffs and trimmings." And this is true of the "beautiful furs" in general sables, black fox. chinchilla, ermine and Kamchatka beaver. A "beautiful" chinchilla mantle costs $10,00, and the cheapest $1600, "which no American woman would look at!" "A Demidoff might have a black fox buy beautiful skins for $16. Now you cannot have them for $30. A beautiful seal coat used to cost $400. Today you '- w ' """5 paroon, luster Is ...v. m h.ii..- i. . Yet never were there so many splen- more reasonable than on the natural xhl, ,, curiously reminiscent of the did sealskin coats worn. The clUes article worth $.,000. And the more so Btyi, of letters written by the Spanish are full of them. dark, velvety, supple, because a second skin Is needed for the -prisoner." Inclosed in the letter were cut "dressmaker lr gracious lines. muff which makes $10,000 as against riinni. riin, th. - r r . i. . Russian banker and the disappearance fur It all comes to this" said Vladimir - i . .J. . . . , houses honor the product which never Grunwaldt, "women of all categories. .appo8e1 to hive had wUh hlm. - , oi. ti.ic (.urns to Know ventor of the process is today Again, Even it is --the dye brush! the great, fashioni blc the fur houses hesitate to tell their trick. Now. insurance on a $50 stole of $160,000. I cannot receive your answer impatience, that I may not shown sign, appeared Ira Paris calling himself Senor in prison, out you must sena a came- D." Catala. advertising himself as the presl-. One Spanish "prisoner" claimed to dent of the Knights of Mystery. Es have made his money through his con- tabltshlng a "caballstlo Institute." be nectlon with the De Lesseps syndicate offered to reveal -the secrets of love. In Panama and to have been- forced to beauty and worldly success tor a sub flee from London, leaving his money stantlal honorarium. Some of his there, but having a draft tor It. which methods, however, attracted the atten he did not dare cash. tlon of the police, who. upon investl- bor rowed from that body, and now Is gallon, reported that the Institute bad chairman of the Neutrality Board. The beers used chiefly for blackmailing pur- At another time the lot of others. ion sew gether like a patchwork quilt. You shave It the machine cannot be bought; it is rented on a royalty. You a mu- dwiuiui uings, and are not . . v, k.-j c ... -... . iur aarment. anH minv Frrnrh raMnta rw-tt Vi a- - . 4 T f .nl.n. V .. i " . . " i.muin craze. York received letters from a them all to- ' It is not our fault." he says. "It Is ,, j K- .......i.j , scene of the to Cuba, of New prisoner Cuban old Intimacy among the three has been re-established on closer terms thsn ever before. From time to time the postal author- poses. A servant who had a grudge arilnat Her mlatreaa would affr to- sell the secrets of her employer's achieved private life, and these the president of the Knlghta of Mystery made use of it lata In the United Statea and the aL worm current. in..nn M. Ilk. hi. c.nl.h Tnnaula laauxl .arnlnr anln.t a. v III. hn4-rltfn. All skins are rising in price. It Spain, desired to share his fortune the swindle, but there were always found to be so like that of the Spanish makes no matter. Since the War broke m-lh anv otw. aa-hn u willing - mnv itaranm who did not haar nr -arlimi.p" that Ihara vaa 1 11 1 1. a.ki dye it, doll it these are unpatented out. in August, there has been no mar- to Havana and lift the attachment on would not heed these warnings, and that he bad at some time been a mem secret processes. Muskrat. which the ket. It is nothing. The Leipzig fair his baggage, which contained a secret the business kept up with fluctuations ber of that notorious band. As soon French call musquash, makes the love- took place for Germany only. A vast ruktt In whlrh was haarHi m,, in thia rountrv and in En-eland until .. ,h i..a.iirat!i w K.run t,. ... sealskin. The exclusive fashion- quantity of beaver and astrakhan w . n-. s. 1.1 ......a. . ,..niiv u i it- .... . i .. bouses work only In musquash sold to officers. The rt w. . . . a i 1 . j 1. - - .1 , . ' ... .1 ... . pelisse, said M. de Lamarre. coming seal; but the biS brown tewer rat furnUhlng. sheep, lamb, etc What do you will learn from my excellent refer- year the police, aided by a one- Klnce that episode the Spanish "prls- oner" has been very quiet, but there have been similar periods of inactivity, and he may yet break forth into letter writing and beg for a guardian for bis lovely young daughter, who In all the years that the trick has been played has never grown older. She la stci sweet 15 and will send her photograph to any dear relative who will show enough Interest to send her Imprison parent money for the release of his luggage. The fortune will probably vary in amount, as It has in the past, from $10,000 to $300,000. The Spanish Consul In New York an nounced several years ago that his country was teUng to suppress the Spanish "prisoner" swindle, but that it could not be done without American co-operation. He asserted that he had offered to take letters and forged docu ments which had been brought to his office, but that the holders clung to them as tenaciously as If they were of great value. It Is probable, however, that with the notoriety which the scheme has It has at last become loo generally known for a very heavy harvest to be reaped unless the char acter of the swindle Is so thoroughly changed that its disguise may not be easily penetrated. llest able Te the Bitter t"tt. Judge. Crsbuhaw Why don't you try patch things up with your wife? Henr-eck It's no use; she won t en grant aa armistice. to
