TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX. PORTLAND, MAY 30, 1915.
7
BOLERO BLOUSE IS ONE OF LATEST
AND LOVELIEST OF SPRING MODELS
Pure White Georgette Crepe and Val. Lace Used With Charming Effect in Distinctive Garment Striped Hand
kerchief Linen Blouses in Tailored Style Among Newest Ones Received From . Paris.
V " .i. vMaxvXi '
s' -'Jty7 i P" L'
PERHAPS the smartest blouses are
the jacket blouses which have
separate boleros or eton over
under blouses, drawn in to the figure.
A lovely model is of pure white Geor
gette crepe and Val. lace, with lines ot
hemstitching at all seams and joinings
of the two fabrics. The jacket is really
entirely of lace, with band trimmings
of the white crepe, and at the front is
lnperted a little square vest of fine
white embroidered batiste. The jacket
sleeves are of the crepe, bordered with
lace and are In the bell effect, with
close-fitting lace undersleeves beneath.
Novel and interesting is a blouse of
indestructible voile and orange linen,
the warm colored linen being used for
the lower portion of blouse and sleeve,
attached to the sheer voile with hem
stitching. Further color Is added by
a collar and narrow belt of bright blue
'suede, and by the big brass buttons,
elach stamped with the American eagle.
C'f course the suede collar Is detach
able, so that the white and orange
blouse may bo laundered whenever nec
essary. One of thee blouses accompa
nied the goinK-away tallleur of a
Spring bride. The coat and skirt were
of tan mohair and worsted fabric and
the white, orange and blue blouse lent
a pleasing bit of color.
Some of the smartest Paris blouses
that have come over this Spring have
been striped hankerchicf linen mod
els in tailored style. A green and white
linen blouse Is a copy of one of the
FIRST REQUISITE OF NEW BLOUSE
IS THAT IT BE EXQUISITELY SOFT
Georgette Crepe Favored Material for Sheer Garments and Pussy Willow Silk for Tailored Models Hemstitch,
ing Used in Fastening Material Together Boleros of Lace Soften the Girdle Line.
SOFTNESS of textura Is the first
qualification of desirability in a
modern blouse. Whatever the
style, whether tailored to the final
perfection of correctness, or all a-flutter
with filmy lace and net ruffling, a
blouse must be exquisitely soft, a mere
limp rag, without form or substance,
when off its wearer. Slipped on, such
a blouse acquires lines and shape,
smartness, too, plenty of itt For this
reason most of the new blouses are
displayed In the shops on manniklns, or
are folded deftly into boxes, with
enough crushed tissue paper tucked un
der the fronts and into the sleeves to
Rive the garment a certain shapeli
ness. One picks up a limp bit of lace and
crepe, put together with hemstitching'
and the $8 or $10 price on the tag
attached seems appalling; but when
this airy bit of fabric is tried on, be
hold a lovely blouse well worth the $8
or tlO price, considering the grace of
line and the beauty of material!
Georgette Crepe Favored.
Georgette crepe is the favored ma
terial for sheer blouses of exclusive
type. Tailored blouses that it is not
desirable to have transparent, are of
pussy willow silk, and the finely
striped pussy willow shirtings are es
pecially distinguished.
A young woman who is an accomp
lished horsewoman has ordered six
pussy willow shirting blouses for wear
with her rldinig coat. Two of these
correctly-tailored "shirts" are of white
pussy willow, two of the shirting white
with fine black lines in mannish
shirting effects; one of lavender and
white candy stripes and the sixth of
inch-wide pale pink and white stripes.
These "shirts" are made in masculine
negligee shirt style, with link cuffs.
patch pockets and narrow neckbands
lor the wearing of a riling stock.
Though the rigidly tailored, mannish
shirt appeals to the athletic woman, or
the woman who is sporty" in dress,
the average woman pins her faith to
the semi-tailored blouse, tho blouse
that has the severity of un-
trimmed lines, yet owns to a certain.
plcturesqueness that makes it more be.
coming than the stern masculine style.
There are scores and scores of these
semi-tailored blouses, and new do
signs are appearing every day. Most of
them are in tub silk, crepe de chine
or pussy willow taffeta, and hem
stitching, buttons and loops, patch
pockets and collars that may be worn
high or low are their distinguishing
features.
Profit Made In SklmplnB.
Some of these blouses seem Inex
pensive in the shops, but only the
woman of slenderest proportions can
afford to Indulge In a $1.98 silk tailored
blouse, for the profit is made on these
models by skimping of material wher
ever possible. There la not an Inch
fk !s "1 iV V
V-v
4
2 5:1
original French models and Is particu
larly graceful. All the seams are hem
stitched and the epaulet shoulder is a
modish detail. Cuffs, collar and chemi
sette are of hemstitched, ruffled white
allowed for shrinking anywhere and
unless the figure is as flat-chested as
a boy's, the front of the blouse will
be ungracefully skimpy and drawn, aft
er a single laundering.
Some of the prettiest blouses that
have come from Paris this year have
been models of striped handkerchief
linen in rather severe tailored style.
These striped linen blouses are worn
by Parlsiennes with their tailleurs, of
a morning; they are not considered
correct for luncheon or afternoon wear.
The linen is sheer and fine handker
chief linen and the stripes are in pas
tel tints, of even width with the white
stripes between. Any width stripe is
correct, but best of all is the awning
stripe, two inches wide.
These blouses are put together with
SUMMER CALLERS FIND
VERANDA TEA PLEASANT
Dainty Tea Sets, However, Necessary Adjuncts of Entertainment for Aft
ernoon Visitors Black and White Notable Effect of New Designs.
I ffitrmrrn m 1 1 T t, , 1 1 1 n n n n f i 1 1 1 1 FirnTTmT !
t FOR TEA OX THE VERANDA. I
AGhACIOUS hospitality is the serv.
ing of afternoon tea to Summer
afternoon callers. Hot tea is
served in England no matter how tor
rid the day and there is something
stimulating and refreshing about a cup
of tea, whatever the weather. But the
service must be dainty and the teacups
small, thin affairs, so that the steaming
tea is not overpowering in suggestion.
Buttered biscuits, delicately browned,
and no larger than a 60-cent piece, will
be relished with the small cup of de
licious tea; or one may serve thin slices
of buttered bread cut into diamonds
and triangles and tiny, iced cakes.
Cream must be offered, but most pre-
-JL. f ?-Z G 77
batiste and under the open cuff the
sleeve closes trimly with pearl but
tons and loops. A pretty note Is the
pin tucking of the blouse between the
pale green stripes, at the front.
I hemstitching and sometimes have cuffs
t and collars of white hemstitched linen.
They look well with sport tailleurs of
navy or checked serge, or with more
formal suits of tan or dark-colored
gabardine, or mohair and worsted
mixture. But they are not so pleas
ing with white tailleurs which demand
white blouses for an effect of smart
uniformity. With the white serge or
mohair coat and skirt suit a while
pussy willow shirting blouse or one of
soft Georgette crepe, and also a white
hat draped with a white trellis-mesh
veil, a white parasol, white gloves and
white buttoned boots; thus is spic and
span Summer distinction achieved!
Two soft, silken fabrics used to
gether give individuality to some of the
new blouses. For example, a pale
ler in warm weather their tea with a
thin slice of lemon. A sprig of mint
floating in the cup Imparts a spicy.
refreshing flavor.
In a dainty tea set intended for porch
use, the three receptacles for tea, sugar
and cream are of a new black and white
china, which is fashionable just now
along with other black and white ef
fects In house furnishings. With this
tea set may be used eggshell teacups
to match, or cups in the delicate green
color of Irish Belleck china. The tea-
cloth may be of white linen, embroi
dered in green and black, and in the
center of the tea table or tea tray
should stand a slender glass or silver
vase filled with maidenhair fern, migno
nette or lily of the valley.
maize-colored pussy willow silk model
has a vestee of hand-embroidered
Georgette crepe set in-with hemstitch
ing. Cuffs and collar are also of the
embroidered crepe, the embroidered
design showing small, heavily-padded
dots in straight lines. This blouse la
priced in the shops at 83.75.
Another Model Stunning;.
Another stunning model of white
crepe de chine of heavy quality has
tucked panels of Georgette crepe down
the front, each panel set in with hem
stitching. A blouse of white batiste
Is bisected straight across the front.'
back and sleeves with hemstitching and
below this hemstitching the blouse- la
of rose pink linen.
While Dink Is still a favorite blouse
color, pale yellow and pale green
seem more the choice of fashion just
now anl with country club and beach
suits of khakl-kool the pale yellow or
green blouses are smart Indeed.
The woman who loves dainty blouses
yet cannot afford to pay $9 or $10 for
a really distinguished model should set
herself to work to evolve a hand
tucked French batiste blouse. These
sheer, tucked blouses are exquisitely
beautiful and, what Is more important,
are much in style. "She whole of back
and front, as far as the armhole.
should be covered with the finest sort
of tucking; groups of pintucka alter
nating with narrow pleats make a pret
ty effect; or there may be plntucks
with lines of hemstitching set in between.-
The outside of the long sleeve
should also be tucked and collar and
cuffs of organdie should be hem
stitched.
Tucking; Must Be by Hand.
All the tucking, by the way. must be
done by hand with fine thread: the
hemstitching also, though machine
hemstitching is permissible. The front
of the blouse may be trimmed with a
nemstitcned trill, and closed with
pearl buttons. The price of such a
blouse in the shops is about 812.
Lace is being used again as a blouse
trimming, and Val or shadow lace com
blned with sheer batiste or better still,
with daphne silk or Georgette crepe,
achieves a smarter blouse than all-
lace this season. White, indestructible
vouo -with lace also is beauti
ful. In all cases tho lace and
fabrics are set together with hem
stitching, which adds greatly to the
filmy character of the blouse: and the
newest models show dainty boleros of
lace, wnicn partly veil the girdle in
graceiui enects. And finally an im
portant word the sleeve of the smart
oiouse. lauorea, dressy or sporty, is in-
variaDiy long.
House of Worth Leads in
.Victorian Fashions.
Establishment of Late Queen Cou
turier TornlOK Out Creations Pat
terned After Koyal Tastes.
THE HOUSE OF WORTH seems pe
culiarly well fitted to be the lead
er in fashions of the Victorian era, re
vived this season, since one of the
original members of the famous firm of
dressmakers, M. Jean Worth, was the
ravorlte couturier of Queen Victoria,
any many of the gowns of the early
Victorian period, when the young
queen was at the most "dressy" pe
i ui nvr reign, were turned out by
him. It is to be presumed therefore
that the archives of the House of
w orth have furnished many valuable
suggestions for 1915 frocks after the
early Victorian style, and at any rate.
Worth has unquestionably led in tho
movement toward a revival of Victor
ian modes.
The spreading silk gowns of the
'40s. with their ruffles, flounces and
Vandyke bandings of velvet were of
tiowered delaine, and of grosgrain silk
that reliable silk of our grandmoth
ers' day which endured for years and
could actually "stand alone." The
modern frock, patterned after early
Victorian inspiration is of softer sUk
usually of the lustrous pussy willow
taffeta, in flowered pattern, or of
frisper faille, especially faille class
Ique. which comes In wonderful shim
mering shades of gold, military blue,
foliage greens, sweet pea lavenders and
watermelon pink a favored pink this
season.
M. Jean Worth, the founder of the
House of Worth, died some years ajr
but his sons, Gasten and Jean-Phil-lippe,
have carried on the business, and
though Queen Victoria's couturier, the
original Worth was an Englishman his
sons are thoroughly French in tem
perament and sympathies. This house
has designed costumes for most of the
famous singers and actresses of the
century and is famed for its toilettes
for grande dames costumes of con.
servative refinement and good taste
which never approach the bizarre.
ADVICE TO HOUSEWIVES GIVEN
Subject of Canning June Fruit Dis
cussed by Cookery Editor.
In the Woman's Home Companion
the cookery editor writes a page of ad
vice to housewives on the subject of
canning June fruits. The jelly-mak
ing, canning and preserving time is
approaching and the directions given
are particularly valuable Just now.
Following is an abstract from the gen
eral directions:
"Fruit for canning should be fresh,
firm, of good quality and not ever
ripe.
"For canning fruit allow one-third
its weight in sugar and two and one
half to three cupfuls of water to each
pound of sugar.
"To sterilize jars: Wash Jars and
fill with cold water. Set in a kettle
on a trivet and surround with cold
water. Heat gradually to the boiling
point, remove from kettle, empty and
fill while hot. Let covers stand in hot
water five minutes. Dip rubber bands
in hot water, but do not allow them
to stand. Always use new rubbers and
see that the covers are in perfect
shape."
Xotes and Notions.
If there are any sleeves at all in the
newest evening dresses they are likely
to be long.
Blouses must blouse, but very care
fully must it be done.
The revival of quaint old shapes Is a
feature in Spring millinery: there are
even Watteau hats with ribbons and
hand-made flowers.
Sashes 'fringed with gold braiding,
khaki and bright metal buttons are all
introduced in the material styles being
shown by Paris dressmakers.
There is a charming arrangement of
narrow double belts on some of the new
frocks. One belt seems to hold the
shirring in at the top of the full skirt,
giving a high-walsted effect, while the
other is placed about four inches lower
and at the bottom of the shirring.
Potato Cream Roll.
Pare and chop fine six medium-sized
raw potatoes, season with half tea
spoon of salt, a teaspoon of onion juice,
a dash of cayenne and Just enough
cream sauce to bind them together. Put
them into a buttered shallow baking
dish and place in a moderately hot
oven, in a pan of hot water. Cook un
til the potatoes are done, then' roll
them over like an omelet; let them
stand a few minutes longer, but do not
let them brown. Turn out on a heated
dish and garnish with parsley and
orouea Dacon.
Pretty Xurse Aids.
Hicks Isn't Withington a long time
getting well? They told me three weeks
ago that he was convalescent. Wicks
I see you don t know what a pretty
nurse Withington has. Tit-Bits.
DANCING DEVELOPS NATURAL WAIST
AND ELIMINATES NEED OF CORSET
Noted Russian Dancer Says Tango and Other Modern Steps Have Brought Feminine Figure to Stage Where
No Stays Are Required and Tight Gowns Are Viewed With Disdain.
"11 -7 r V- 1 ' 1 JJk
Ht J r 1 I I
BI ULLE. ANNA FAVJLOWA.
The World-famous Russian Ballerina.
ODERN dancing, wonderful exer
cise that It is, has brought .the
modern feminine figure to the
stage, where stays are discarded. If
you want to tango you cannot lace
tightly.. If you tango enough, if you
sufficiently strengthen the muscles of
the abdomen and the torso, you do not
need stays. The corset of today is
really nothing more than a girdle. The
bust and the abdomen are unconfined.
Free breathing Is not Interfered with
and the vital organs are not com
pressed. Dancing has done it. Dancing
Is my vocation in this life. My avoca
tion is tracing the history and influ
ence of the dance on manners and cus
toms in various periods.
During my tours of America and
Canada I have gained a very clear in
sight into the dance as a national so
cial force. I consider the popularity
of modern society dancing one of tho
most potent influences for general bet
terment that America has ever known.
I realize there are some features of
modern society or ballroom dancing
which' are harmful, but the benefits
are greater than the harm. It was be
cause of this study of society dancing
that I agreed to lend my efforts to
standardizing society dances and elim
inating the objectionable features.
During my present American tour 1
will devote 40 minutes of my pro
gramme to socety dances, and 1 hope
the public will not only be pleased with
the dances . themselves, which I have
originated, but also that the standards
I hope to set will be of good social
benefit to all.
Among the most pronounced benefits
of society dancing today is the elim
ination of tight lacing. It is simply
impossible to dance the tango, for in
stance, or any of Its allied dances, in
a tight gown with a tightly-laced cor
set underneath. The styles seem to
Sports Hats for Outing Wear
Are Trim Affairs.
Ideal Model for All-Hound Summer
t'ae Im Llicht Brown Cane Straw
Willi Flexible II rim.
r
SPOUT HAT FOR THE
MEK GIRL,
..... ......
THE sport hat has achieved an im
portant place in woman's ward
robe and is now as essential an item
as the smart tailored hat for first sea
son wear, or the graceful theater and
restaurant hat which accompanies for
mal costumes. This year's sport head
gear is a good way removed from the
ancient "sun hat." which used to be
considered good enough for the.country
or seashore, and is a knowing bit ot
millinery indeed.
Rather small are the new sport hats,
with picturesque lines and of course
the flexible, shady brim which may be
pulled down over the eyes when occa
sion requires. The less expensive mod
els are of stitched cloth or duck,
trimmed with tailored bands of rib
bon, small cockades or buckles: the more
costly sport hat is of genuine panama
or some other fine, soft straw, but the
rakish lines are the same.
For the girl who rides there is a very
chic hat of white felt In trlcorne shape,
the under brim faced with black hemp.
A pink felt sailor trimmed with a
black grosgrain cockade will suit the
taste of the pretty girl who enjoys
country club doings. Another sport hat
of the tennis girl Is of straw with
crown covered with blue cotton crepe.
Sport hats for steamer wear are of
white straw with flarini? white wings
and for the golf links there Is an ap
propriate Scotch Tarn of straw and
. ,A i
I J ' j
M-
iYo7ri Ss7 Ti'me of
til e rsj f
have changed today, and tight town
are now looked upon with disdain. But
for a girl with the dancing figure tho
figures which comes only through much
dancing no tight lacing is necessary
for any style of gown or frock. If you
should happen to come to see my per
formance when I appear here, you will
note that the dancers in my company
and I appear in many different cos
tumes representing many periods of
the dress from the Watteau-like gown
of "Amarilla" to those of the 1810
gowns of "The Fairy Doll." but not
one of us wears a corset. We wear cor
set waists only. Even in those ballets
where we personate the grand dames
of the Grand Monarch, when 13-inch
waist was the fashion, we want no
tight stays. We will have dancing fig
ures. Since it has been dancing which rev
olutionized corsets and their use. I
have been led to delve into their his
tory throughout the ages. Although
dincinj has changed the style In cor
sets in such a marked degree, f believe
no further change will come. The nat
ural waist, the loose, though properly
moulded, gown has come to stay.
silk. One smart little sport hat. Ideal
for all-round Summer wear, is of li7ht
brown sugarcane straw with a flexible
brim and sailor band of brown arid
white ribbon, the short streamers held
by a bead ornament, red and brown in
color.
The sport hat worn on tennis court
or golf course is unveiled, but on sport
hats worn in the automobile or on a
yacht the veil is a smart as well as
practical adjunct. White veils of flla
dora or octagon mesh, trimly adjusted
and gathered in under the chin give
the best effect with these hats.
CRETOXXE LIXCHEOX SETS FAD
Material Ioe Not Require Intricate
. Stitclies to Give Beaut).
Many persons are making arrange
ments for furnishing- their Summer
homes. While selecting everything
which will lend an air of coolness,
these vacationists should not overlook
the fact that luncheon sets of cretonne
are much the fad. The person who de
cides to make a set for her home
should select cretonne with a design
carrying out the color of her china
or the general color scheme of the dining-room
in which it is used.
The -excellence of this material used
for such a purpose is that it requires
no intricate stitches to give it beauty.
The edge of the large centerpiece and
the smaller doilies are scalloped and
button-holed, and that is all there Is
td the embroidering of the set. Women
fond of crocheted edges might crochet
plcot lace on to the edges of the various
pieces.
Activities f Women.
Prominent New York women have
subscribed $6000 to provide medical
treatment for drug users.
A Georgia woman has invented and
patented a new kind of hoe.
The Bellevue Hospital In New York
City has a female ambulance doctor.
Female telephone operators in lOng
land are paid $5.50 a week during their
training period and $S when trained.
Miss Mabel Guppy, an English girl
who has been teaching English in a
Japanese school, has resigned her posi
tion to become a Buddhist nun.
Nearly all the girls in Lewis. Kan.,
have Joined the Anti-Cigarette League
formed In that town, and now none of
the members will walk the streets 'with
any man who smokes cigarettes.
Boiled Spongecake.
Ingredients:
Six eggs.
One cup granulated sugar.
One-half cup water.
One cup flour (heaping), sifted five
times.
One-half teaspoonful vanilla.
Formula:
Put sugar and water on to boil. Sift,
measure and set aside flour. Separate
eggs.
Beat yellows, add flavoring and beat
again until very stiff. Beat whites un
til points stand upright when beater
Is withdraws; add the boiling- sugar
Some sort of corset Is necessary to
make one symphonic whole of a wom
an's costume. P'or example, how sup
port the etocklncs? Go back to the
thoroughly harmful, circulation-hindering
elastic garter? Never. A corset
waist answers the purpose.
Ancient Greek worm n, they of th
perfect figures, wore modifications of
the corset even with their flowing
garments draped from the nhouldrr.
Homer writs of the "cestus" or bro;id
girdle of Venun. The corset can be
traced to the remotest Jntlquit.
Women have always worn them nd
always will. But the torture of tight
lacing Is pRFt. The corset does not
now, and never will again. Mnder
breathing or displace or hinder the
organs. Two years of dancing have
done more to free women from cornet
torture than three centuries of cru
sading. Speaking of crusading iigain.st stay",
I find that in the first decide, of tha
19th century an orpranlzjition in Amer
ica had for it.s motto "Natural wulMs
or no wives." Nowadays men set nat
ural waists In their wives without a
motto, thanks to the dance.
atfer it has reached the threading
point, beating ill V.e while and until
t!ie mixture has become stiff anil cold.
Then mix gently the yellows. Do not
stir. iJistly. add the flour, which
should be folded in.
Bake one hour. Have oven slow to
moderate for the flrt 20 minutes and
Increase the heat until it Is quick at
the finish.
For Hie Dancing Cla.
A frock which would be useful for
dancing classes, or for home evening
wear is carried out in soft white wash
ing silk, with a skirt of novel design,
fully gathered with a double row of
gauging at the back and sides, but
finished in front with a plain flat
pleat. A broad sash of ros-eolorcd
satin encircles the waist, while the
bodice Is gauged becomingly round
the shoulders, and arranged with a soft
chemisette of white nlnon, gathered
hinh to the throat. In fine French
cashmere, or In crepe de chine with a
chemisette in net and lace, this would
make a pretty afternoon frock for
smart occasions.
COVERED FACE
Head and Ears of Child. Kept Get
ting Worse. Very Irritating. Face
Quite Disfigured. Used Cuticura
Soap and Cuticura Ointment.
Trouble Entirely Healed.
Clsy Center. Neb. " I want to tell vbti
Cuticura Soap and Ointment baa dona for
my little girl. Her face, head and ear were
jutt completely covered
with a sore eruption. It
made lu appearance la the
form of a rash and kept get
ting wone and spread until
her face and ear were al
most a solid mass. Terr Irri
tating and causing great
itching and di stress. It
made her restless at night
and her face was quite disfigured.
"I tried different remedies suggested but
nothing we did brought any relief. Finally
I decider to give Cuticura fluap and Oint
ment a trial. I washed her face with Cuti
cura Soap, dried it lightly and applied Cuti
cura Ointment. I could notice an improve
ment with the first application and in two
weeks' time the trouble wa entirely healed."
(Signed) Mr. G. O. Slick. July 31. 1014.
Sample Each Free by Moil
With 32-p. Skin Dook on request. Ad
dress post-card "Cuticura. Dept. T, B mm
ton.! Sold throughout the world.
DISTRESSING
RASH
J s