6
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTL.AXD, MAY 30. 1915,
LOOSE, COMFORTABLE MIDDY IDEAL
FOR WEAR FOR ATHLETIC SPORTS
Sensible and Useful Blouse Is New High-Low Collar Midel of Pussy Willow Taffeta Quantities of Tiny Satin
Covered Buttons Ornament Pretty Blouse of Georgette Crepe and Val. Lace.
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FTKR all Is said and done, there Is
nothing like a looee, comfortable
middy for athletic sports. The middy
Is easy to put on and never tfrnca up at
the waistline, as a more trimly ad
justed blouse miRiit durlns violent ex
ercise. A new model Is of white ftal
atea with collar and cuffs of blue lin
en, gtrHppcd with narrow white braid.
The small, smartly tied sailor knot Is
of black ribbon. Tho middy may be
worn with a white percale or linen
skirt or with a darker euit of khaki
or mohair for camping;. It is always
accompanied by Informal accessories
and demands an outing: hat and sport
shoes rather than the tailored hat and
buttoned boot that go with more for
mal costume.
A sensible and useful blouse is the
new hltrh-iow collar model, which may
be worn with open neck, or with tho
collar buttoned trimly about the throat
In military style when one dresses for
the street. This typical Summer model
Is of white pussy willow taffeta, sim
ply built but an art in every detail.
The material is slightly gathered along
the shoulder scam and the new patch
pockets ornament the front. Particu
larly smart is the trim fit of the
sleeves at the wrist, which is accom
panied by an arransement of tiny but
tons and loop or a line of snaps, to be
fastened after the sleeve has been
drawn over the hand.
Quantities of tiny, satin-covered but
tons ornament a pretty blouse of white
Georgette crepe and val lace. Km
broidered net was used for the sleeve
frills, the buttoned vest and the tall
collar, which is wired to maintain its
position. Lines of hemstitching Join the
lace to the material so that an ex
tremely airy, delicate effect is secured.
Under the net vest is a hemstitched
vest of the Georgrette crepe, cut in a
deep V. and If a lower-necked effect Is
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
PORTLAND. May 26. Will yon kindly
Iflve mc a recipe for various kinds, or color,
of rose beads, how to make them, and how
to strlno; them. 1 have made the tflack
beads, but not the colored ones. I thank
you many times in advance. MKS. K. C.
YOU . would see from the printed
notice sent you that It always is
Impossible for me to send replies by
mail.
Ited rose beads can, be made either
with or without rose petals. Most of
them, nowadays, are made without, dif
ferent kinds of "cement mixtures,"
either home-made or commercial being:
employed, as being- less tedious and
wasteful of perfectly good time than
the petal process. My best advice in
regard to the making of any beads is
"Iion't."
Red Fetal Beads No. 1 Boil the fresh
petals like spinach, adding one tea
epoonful of citric acid or one table
spoonful salt (preferably the first), to
Jteep the color. Use as little water as
possible to prevent burninjr. Remove
the fleshy part of the petals before
boiling. When tender, drain off the
liquid and grind the pulp smooth, or
rub it through a sieve, or pound in a
mortar. Into this paste knead enough
"filler." such as starch, flour, talcum
powder, etc., to make a flexible paste,
and give the desired light shade. Use
"fruit coloring" to taste if a brighter
tint is needed. Roll into beads of any
preferred size, with the hands; mould
or "carve" to taste: dry on pins stuck
on a soft board. Polish with a flannel
dipped in rose-perfumed oil; string
with any preferred "mounting beads"
(obtainable at most fancy work depart
ments, between the "rose" beads. For
stringing, use "bead thread." or very
strong waxed silk or linen thread.
A little soda or fruit coloring will
give a lavender shade, unnatural for
"rte" beads. Yellow or cream can be
obtained from white petals, and these
can be tinted more or less Inartistic
shades of green by the use of bluing
or green color paste, or spinach Juice,
or spinach Itself may be used to make
Kreen beads. ' using the above mehtod.
Only, don't call them "green rose beads"
In that case!
Rose Petal Beads No. 2. Dry the
petals quickly after freeing them from
the fleNhy part. Reduce to a fine pow
der, lifting several times. Mix this
powder to a stiff paste with dissolved
gum tragaoanth. or gelatine soaked
nd dissolved over' hot water. Knead
In "filler" (preferably talcum powder),
to make a smooth, flexible paste, and
finish as above, coloring or not with
'fruit color paste" as preferred.
Beads Make a stiff cooked paste
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-"i-lni iHV irtliiiin
desired, the lace collar may be unbut-1
toneq as rar down as this V of the I
with one cup water and one-half cup
flour. Tint any preferred color with
"fruit color paste" or other suitable
"dye for vegetable materials." Knead
to a flexible paste, with salt for a
"rough finish" effect, or with corn
starch or talcum powder for a "smooth"
finish. The salt gives a slight "spar
kle." Add a few drops of concentrated
penume or "rose, "orange flower,"
"lavender," "verbena," "violet." or any
other suited to the color of the beads.
If perfumed beads are desired, make
Into beads and finish as above.
The beads can be marked with a file,
or screw, or "carved" into fancy shapes
while still flexible. This seldom
makes them more beautiful.
PORTLAND. May 2. Will you please tell
me what to do with oil of thyme. If It can
be used in several ways, please tell me that.
Thank you for past replies. 1 would like to
ask also, can puddings and desserts be made
with egK and no mllkT, L. L..
I. think oil of thyme Is used in some
"mixed" perfumes, and in certain toilet
articles, such as washes for the mouth
and teeth. Probably there are other
commercial uses that I do not know of.
Thyme Itself Is used in cookery. In very
small quantities, as flavoring material
In dressings, sauces, soups, and so
forth, but 1 think oil of thyme would
be too concentrated for these purposes.
I believe, but am not quite sure that
oil of thyme is sometimes used, like oil
of pennyroyal, to keep off insects. Pos
sibly some reader may correct me if
I am wrong or may suggest other uses.
A loose-leaf scrapbook, lSVi inches
y 11 inches, with some Index pages,
is a good way to keep and classify
articles that one wants to save; and a
card catalogue set with "guide" cards
for "breade." "salads," "cakes." and so
forth, and cards on which recipes may
be either written or pasted is excel
lent for keeping and classifying recipes
or shorter directions and suggestions
on household topics.
I fear I do not quite understand your
last question. If it means "are there
many puddings and desserts that are
made with eggs and without milk,"
the answer is "yes." If it means "can
eggs be substituted for milk in pud
dings and dessert recipes," the answer
is "no." Let me know if you had any
particular recipe in mind.
PORTLAND. May 24. will you kindly tell
me how to prepare crawfish when caught 7
What should be removed and how should
they be prepared, especially over a camp
fire. What Is the best' time of the season
for themT Thanking you in advance.
MAY.
A friend, skilled In camping, tells
me that crawfish should be thoroughly
well scrubbed In clear water with a
stiff brush to get rid of sand aid oos-
slble parasites. The intestines should
crepe vest, and turned back In mor
open style.
be removed before cooking. This can
be done by holding the crawfish warily
by the back and perking off the ex
treme end of the tail and bringing
away the entrail with it. They are
boiled 20 to 30 minutes, according to
size, in boiling water well salted and
spiced. Spices vary according to the
taste and pocket of the cook. A fa
mous maker of "crawfish boiled in
wine" uses 32 different ingredients in
his "brew," but for a camp fire this
would hardly be practical. A few
cloves, alspice, berries, peppercorns,
bay leaf and 'stick cinnamon are easily
carried, however. A sliced lemon or
a little vinegar in the "brew" is highly
commended. One or two tablespoons
of sugar or molasses, used with vine
gar, is said to "develop flavor" in
camp-cooked crawfish. This again is
a matter of personal taste. The craw
fish turns red on boiling. 1 don't sup
pose you need directions for peeling
and eating him, but you will need
pepper, salt and vinegar, or lemon, at
the time, and. probably, a bath after
wards. Some crawfish expert reader
may offer further details.
INDEPENDENCE. May in. Will you
kindly give a recipe for a rich white cake,
suitable for a bride's cake? Also a recipe
for a dark wedding cake. Thanking you in
advance. M. IS. M.
Bride's Cake One-half cup butter,
one and one-half cups sugar, one-half
cup milk, two and one-half cups flour,
three level teaspoons baking powder,
one a quarter teaspoons cream of tar
tar, whites of six eggs, one-third tea
spoon salt, almond or vanilla or orange
nvwer water iiavoring. Mix by the
usual method for butter cakes, fold
ing In the stiff-beaten whites. Beat
the cream of tartar into the whites.
Bake 50 to 55 minutes, according to
the depth of pan. In a tin lined with
greased paper, dividing tho time in
quarters, as frequently described in
this column.
Deep narrow pans are convenient
for this cake and make cutting easy.
If euch pans are used without paper.
45 to 50 minutes will probably be the
baking time. Use a thick white frost
ing of the White Mountain Cream type.
Bride's Cake No. 2. Three-fourths
cup butter, one and one-half cups
sugar, one and one-half cups milk,
two and one-half cups flour, one-half
teaspoon cream or tartar, one-third
teaspoon salt. three level teaspoons
atting powaer. flavor to taste. Mix
as aoove ana bake in two loaves.
uark wedding Cake One pound
butter, one pound brown sugar, 12 eggs,
one cup molasses, one pound flour, four
teaspoons cinnamon, four teaspoons
alspice. one and one-half teaspoons
mace, one nutmeg grated, one-fourth
teaspoon soda, three pounds seeded
and cut raisins, two pounds Sultana
raisins, one and one-half pounds citron
sliced thin and chopped, one pound
currants, one-nair pound candied lem
onrlnd, chopped, one-half pound can
died orange rind, chopped, one cup
brandy, four squares chocolate, melted
In one tablespoon hot water. Mix In
the usual way for butter cakes, sepa
rating the whites and folding in near
the end; or use the "whole egg method,"
as preferred. Hove the pans well
lined with buttered paper. Let the
pans be deep enough to allow the cake
to rise without touching a carefully
adjusted- "cap" or cover of buttered
paper; or use covered tins If available.
Steam four hours, then finish by heat
ing one hour in a rather slow oven.
The cake may be finished If liked
with almond paste, made by kneading
together one part almond meal with
two parts sifted confectioners" sugar,
and just enough unbeaten egg to make
a flexible paste. For richer almond
paste use equal parts almond meal and
confectioners' sugar, with egg to make
a flexible paste. If for keeping, use
egg-white, not whole egg. For Im
mediate use egg yolk may be substi
tuted as this is often convenient when
extra whites are needed for frosting.
After covering the top of the cake
with almond paste any depth up to
one and one-third inches), cover with
thick white frosting; either "boiled"
or "ornamental" as preferred.
Wedding ICake No. 2. One pound
butter, one pound sugar, 12 eggs, one
pound flour, two teaspoons cinnamon,
three-fourths teaspoon, each, nutmeg,
alspice and mace, one-half teaspoon
clove, three pounds raisins, one pound
currants, one pound citron, chopped,
one pound figs chopped, one-half pound
candied cherries sliced or one pound
Sultanas, one-fourth cup brandy or
orange juice, two tablespoons lemon
Juice, two lemon rinds grated, one-half
teaspoon soda. Mix as above- Bake
four hours or steam three and one-half
hours and bake one hour. Finish with
almond paste or plain Icing as pre
ferred. The "prize wedding cake" and the
English "Royal wedding cake" (or
"Brother Killer"). both printed re
cently in this column, are also suit
able for your purpose.
FOREST GROVE. Or., May 16. Recently
at a home of a friend I was served with
what was called Bermuda punch. All 1
know of the Ingredients was rum and milk.
Will you be kind enough to Inform me
through The Oregonian what other Ingredi
ents are needed? D. F. F.
I am unable to supply the details.
It may have been a "personal spe
cialty." Why not ask your host or
hostess? Possibly some reader may
know a "brew" of this name corres
ponding to your description.
SEASIDE. Or., May 20. We are fond of
mayonaise. but I have difficulty in using
the egg whites. I am not successful ,tn
making cake or meringue shells, and I don't
care to make .divinity always, so how else
can I use them? J. S.
You can use whole eggs, or egg
yolk, or egg white alone in making
mayonnaise, there being only a small
difference in the color and flavor of
the finished product. This may remove
your difficulty. If not, you can use
extra whites in souffles, both hot and
cold, sweet or savory "fruit whips"
from either fresh or dried fruits,
"marshmallow" or "snow" puddings, or
similar gelatine desserts. Also in light
rolls or coffee cakes, in cake frostings
for whole egg cakes (if you are more
successful with them), and in many
other ways that may be suggested by
the above.
Summer Girl Will Wear Lin
en Military Suit.
Soldier Bine la Proper Shade anil
Moots Will lie Equipped With
ilraas Iluttonn.
THE Summer girl will wear trim
military suits of linen this year,
and naturally the linen will be blue
soldier blue In shade. Lanvin has de
signed such a suit for young women
and it is so attractive, cool and practi
cal for beach and casino wear that the
model is being copied in countless
made-to-order tailleurs. There is, first,
a natty coat, perfectly straight In line
and falling to the hips. This is bound
at the edges, on the cuffs and down the
front, which fastens across toward the
left side, with narrow white braid. One
white pearl button holds the front just
below a tall, military collar, also edged
with white braid.
A wide, loose 'black patent leather
belt edged with White kid and fasten
ing with two white kid buttons, holds
In the loose coat just below a natural
waist line. The skirt is a gored, flare
model, slashed up six inches in four
places at the edge. Skirt and slashes
are bound with the white braid, and the
skirt is short enough to show military
boots of patent leather and gunmetal
kid, with brass eagle buttons.
White gloves and a small military
hat of blue straw draped with a white
trellis mesh veil will add the finishing
touch of crisp smartness to this know
ing beach costume.
TAKE CARE OF IIAITt, IS TLEA
Io Xot Scratch Scalp or Tear Hoots
of Hair, Is Advice.
Few women take proper care of their
hair. They believe that ir they give It
a brushing at night and wash it every
two or three weeks they are doing all
that is needed.
Under normal conditions the proper
care of the hair is simple. The objects
to be kstpt in mind are to preserve its
natural luster and texture by means of
absolute cleanliness and to massage the
scalp sufficiently to remove any dan
druff that may adhere to it and thereby
promote the active circulation of the
blood. All this must be done without
Injury to the scalp or the hair by pull
ing, scratching or tearing. Cutting the
hair frequently has a tendency, espe
cially in youth, to thicken the indi
vidual hairs and promote their growth.
Neither this nor any other known proc
ess, however, tends to Increase the
actual number of hairs. All claims to
the contrary are the pretensions of
charlatans.
Professional hairdressers do not ad
vocate shampooing the hair oftener than
once a month. A thorough brushing
once or twice a week Is regarded by
them as sufficient for cleanliness and
as much more beneficial to the hair and
scalp.
Much contradictory advice has been
given on the subject of brushing the
hair, some persons saying that stiff
brushes should be used and the scalp
and hair brushed by means of them
with a .gqod deal of vigor; others rec
ommend soft brushes and a very mod
erate amount of friction. These differ
ences are probably due to different
views of the objects to be attained by
brushing. One object is to promote
the health of the scalp and hence to
give strength and vigor to the hair. For
this purpose brushes with hard, stiff
bristles may be used with considerable
vigor, provided the skin is not Injured.
The other object is to smooth the hair
and free it from dust. For this pur
pose brushes may be soft and used with
a very moderate pressure.
Care should be taken on the one hand
not to scratch the scalps tear the roots
of the hair, or cacse it to split and, on
the other, not to neglect the stimulat
ing effects of massaging the scalp and
removing dandruff. In other words, a
vigorous brushing should be directed
to the head or scalp, the gentler stroke
being employed In brushing the hair
itself.
Cleaning: White Clotlies.
For cleaning white clothes of any
kind, especially white wool, use the
common black magnesia. Lay garment
on table and rub magnesia into it
thoroughly; roll up and lay away for a
few days. Then shake out and brush
with clean brush. It will look like
new and save many a dry cleaner's
bill.
Now that the season of white clothes
is here it is quite necessary to know
how to clean these garments at home.
WOMEN IN ROMANCE AND WORK OF
WORLD ARE CAUGHT BY CAMERA
Yale Senior Marries "Baroness Vecsera" British Captain Killed at Front Leaves $300,000 to Mrs.
Brooks Count Czaky Works When Rich Wife Insists Miss Neilson-Torry in "Trilby."
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DONALD SHIELDS ANDREWS, a
senior at Yale and a son of Mat
thew Andrews, a prominent clti
ben of Cleveland, has married Mrs.
Alma V. Hayne. who sometimes calls
herself the "Baroness Vecsera." Her
first husband was an English Army of
ficer. He is said to be now at the
front. He sued her several years ago
for divorce, naming as co-respondent
another rich youth who he alleged had
followed her from place to place In
spite' of efforts to stop him. This suit
was discontinued and Capttain Hayne
and his wife were reunited for a time.
Then, he disappeared and she used him
for a divorce, which she obtained last
August.
Young Andrews" parents, fearing an
elopement, are said to have had detec
tives keep him a prisoner In a New
York hotel by taking away his cloth
ing. His mother later took him to col
lege. He eluded her recently and it is
now announced that he married Mrs.
Hayne. Mrs. Andrews has said that
she is a daughter of the late Crown
Prince Rudolph of Austria and Marie
Vecsera, the young woman with whom
he was infatuated and for whom he Is
supposed to have died.
Mrs. Phyllis Brooks, who was one of
the beautiful Langhorne sisters, has
Just inherited $300,000 from Captain,
the Hon. G. H. Douglas-Pennant, who
died at the front. It is supposed that
they were engaged. Mrs. Brooks came
to this country last December to get
a divorce from her husband Reginald
Brooks. She went back to London as a
nurse. She is a sister of Mrs. Waldorf
Astor and Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson.
"Go out and work," said the Count
ess. That is why Count Czaky, a
Hungarian of ancient family, is living
in a New York boarding house and go
ing down town each morning to his
job.'" What the job Is his friends say
they do not know, but It keeps him
well occupied. The Countess was Mrs.
Maude Howard Bryan, who inherited a
large fortune from her first husband.
She met the Count at a musicale at
the Waldorf Astoria in 1908 and they
were married soon after and went to
the Countess' home in San Francisco to
live. The Count was married once be
fore. His first wife is now the wife
of Jan Kubelik. the violinist.
"Trilby" has been revived in New
York with as many of the original
cast as could be engaged and It has
proved as great an attraction as when
the DuMaurier book was new and Paul
Patter's dramatization of it was fresh.
Wilton Lackaye is still the devilish
Svengali, just as artistic as before
possibly a little more finished In his
performance of what is really the
greatest part in the piece. Leo Diet
richstein, in recent years a star in his
own plays, under Belasco. is the Zou
Zou Sis of old only a much more
amusing and effective Zou Zou.
Burr Mcintosh is again Taffy. The
part of Little Billee Is In the hands
of Brandon Tynan and the Mme.
Vinard is Rose Coghlan.
"
The most conspicuous newcomer in
the company is Phyllis Neilson-Terry.
who came to this country but little
known, last winter and played a short
engagement in "Twelfth Night." she
has been seen since in "The Adventures
of Lady Ursula." In the revival of
'"Trilby" she has the title role and she
seems to old theiter-goers a great
Improvement on the original. In the
first place, she has youth and beauty
as well as a fine, intelligent delivery.
She has a well-trained voice and she
makes the singing scene extremely ef
fective. It is the best thing Miss Nell.
eon-Terry has yet done, but it id only a
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part of the perfection of a great re
vival. Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson and her
daughter, Irene, have been two of the
most active figures in the Tea Gar
den, which is a part of the annual
Flower Show at New York. Miss Gib
son has been one of the daily attend
ants at the Show, 'selling flowers for
the Red Cross.
Janet Soudder Conn, of New York,
was one of the flower girls who sola
for the benefit of the Red Cross at the
recent Flower. Show in New York. The
flower girls dressed differently each
Summer Traveling Coat Has
Semi-Military Effect.
Battle Gray Khaki Cool Material
Shrrin Oust Hradlly and Rrtlati
Creasing of Outing Trips Itun-
' about I-'rorka Jaunty
TRAVELING coats or battle- gray
khaki-cool are both smart and
practical. Tl5is new all-silk shantung
is distinctive and possesses also the
dust-shedding, not-easily-creased quail
ties that make the perfect traveling
and motor coat. A stunning new model
In battle gray tone has a semi-military
suggestion, with wide belt buttoning
like the coat with horn ball buttons
and a shoulder cape which gives the
garment special style and individuality.
In the broad belt are set small flap
pockets with buttons.
An excellent way to make up the new
striped taffeta runabout frock for Sum
mer is with a pleated skirt and Jaunty
little eton or bolero coat falling over
a wide leather belt. There is a natty
tailored suggestion about these suits
and they are also delightfully cool and
comfortable on warm days. A particu
larly fetching model of blue and white
striped pussy willow tuffeta has a skirt
five yards around at the foot or rather
at the boot top, for all such skirts re
veal the dainty buttoned gaiter boot
to within an inch of its upper edge.
The pleated skirt has a cross wise
band of the silk, eight inches deep, at
the bottom, and the short striped eton
Jacket is edged with a crosswise, four
inch band of the silk. Such a suit,
worn with a fluffy white blouse, a
tailored bat and floating veil of flla
dora or trellis mesh Is exactly the right
thing for all-around Summer wear.
For the inexpensive but good-looking
bathing euit nothing is better than
dark, blue or black, mercerized poplin
Thyllis
oay and their picturesque costumes
were among the attractive features of
the Show.
Mme. Lala Vandervelde. who camo
here several months ago to raise muney
for the Belgians, returned to Europe
on the Lusitania on the trip Just pre
ceding the one when the liner was
sunk. She toured the country and suc
ceeded in collecting several hundred
thousand dollars for the poverty
stricken victims of the war in her
country.
at 35 cents the yard. When wet this
material has the sheen of satin. Fina
grade mohairs are also used for the
new bathing suits and all euch suits
have short tunics, belted at trm waist,
or not as one prefers, and showing tba
full bloomer beneath.
Dressy wraps for wear over formal
frocks are of faille classique. or of
navy or taupe colored goldenrod satin
lined with black and white checker
board pussy willow taffeta. The fash
ionable afternoon wrap is dark on tha
outer side but linings are extremely
gay.
Rhubarb Pauce.
Rhubarb stewed with sugar to a.
thick marmalade makes an excellent
sauce to serve with pork instead of
apple.
FRECKLES
Don't Hide Them vrlth a Vell Resists
Them With the Othlne I'resrrlptloa.
This prescription for the removal of
freckles was written by a prominent
physician and is usually so successful
in removing freckles and giving a
clear, beautiful complexion that It is
sold by druggists under guarantee to
refund the money if it falls.
Don't hide your freckles under a
veil; get an ounce of othlne and re
move them. Even the first few appli
cations should show a wonderful im
provement, some of the lighter freck
les vanishing entirely.
Be sure to ask the druggist for the
double strength othine; it is this that
Is sold on tho money-back guarantee.
Adv.