THE SXT5TDAT OREGONTAX, PORTLAND, MARCH S3, 1915:
JAPANESE SLEEVES AND MANDARIN
FLOWERED CREPE COMBINE NICELY
Simple Lines Recommended for Frocks Where Fabric la Much Broken by Printed or Embroidered Design.
Suggestions Made for Use of Embroideries Displayed in Profusion Now in All Shops.
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THOUGH it is only a coincidence
that brings Japanese sleeves and
mandarin flowered crepe together,
the Idea does seem appropriate. The
flowing sleeves of white indestructible
voile gives much smartness to a simple
frock. Folds of the voile define the
gurplice crossing: of the bodice, and the
little vest trimmed with glass buttons
Is also of the sheer white voile. A
corded piping holds out the tunic in
modish flare effect. This flare is made
with a natural waistline but the broad
belt of velvet gives the high-walsted
suggestion.
Where a fabric is much broken up by
a printed or embroidered design it is
Rlways best to keep the lines simple.
Inexpert would be the homo dresmaker
who could not achieve these frocks,
but in such a simple model distinction
must be given by specially distin
guished material. In one Instance it is
embroidered indestructible voile, sheer
as a cobweb, and trimmed with hand
some Venise lace. The sash ribbon is
white witli a green and brown design
In oak leaves and the green and brown
tones are repeated in the bat, and in
stockings of natural colored silk.
How to use the fascinating embroi
deries that are displayed on shop coun
ters is something of a problem. Here
Is a suggestion for this year's embroi
dery dress. Wido and narrow flounc
tngs in the same pattern of em
broidered white batiste can be used.
The wider flouncing forms the skirt
The bolero falls over a sash of rose
pink pussy willow taffeta and there is
a pleated collar of this taffeta, snap
fastened to the bolero so that it may
be removed when the dress is laundered.
and the sleeve: bolero and skirt-yoke
are cut from the narrower flouncing.
Fashionable Hints.
Every one is telling about the old
styles which are coming back, and one
of them is the upstanding collar of
plaited white lawn. The plaits open
at the top like the ruff of a few sea
sons ago.
Hats are, as yet, very little, changed.
It is almost inevitable that brims will
widen with hems, but as most of the
headgear worn at present have no
brims at all.- it is logical to assume
that the widening process will be a
bit delayed.
Several dancing gowns seen recently
had wide flounces on the skirt. These
were arranged in tiers of two or three
flounces to a skirt, festooned with
roses underneath, or even on the top.
The old-fashioned Bertha bodice was
revived with this. The effect is very
quaint and decidedly charming.
Touches of black vmvet were used on
the wrist and at the girdle.
The separate skirt is a thing of many
gores" in fact one dressmaker asserts
that from five to 24 is the standard.
A very new veiling seen recently
had a scalloped border of black velvet
and tiny polka dots in the mesh.
TUB FROCKS THAT CAN BE MADE AT
HOME ATTRACTIVE AND INEXPENSIVE
Professional Aid in Hemstitching and Pleating May Be Invoked Simple Designs Used for Elaborate Material
and Vice Versa Silks Make Cool and Pretty Garments for Afternoon Wear Cotton Boots Fashionable.
T5 MANY women buy their cos
tumes ready-made now-a-days that
the gentle art of home-dressmaking
has almost been abandoned in most
families in the larger cities, where
easy access may be had to the satis
factorily supplied shops. But this
spring there has been a decided re
vival in interest. In the matter of
home-dressmaking and there are two
reasons for this: the irresistible charm
of the new cotton and silk fabric for
summer wear, and the simple and at
tractively casy-to-attenipt styles now
fashionable.
It was not the easiest thing In the
world to make the old-style sheath
skirt look Just risht. If it was tight
enough at the ankle it was more than
llkelv to draw across the hips, giving
an ugly line at the back: but any
woman with a modicum of skill can
Few three breadths cf material togeth-
rr. put a hem at the bottom and gather
the top Into a waistband and lo, an
J 830 skirt of the most modern persua
sion! Bodices are also easy for the
tvro to achieve this year of high
waist lines. Provided the neck and
sleeve effects are right. It is so simple
to draw a wide, soft sash around the
ligure. between bust and normal waist
line, the lower part of the bodice melt
ing out of sight under the sash. Even
skirt trimmings are easy to manage
Infinitely easier than the draperies that
were hopelessly beyond the skill of the
home-dresser a year or two ago.
Kiounces. ruffles, band trimmings of
rvet. festoons of tiny flowers, rows
of buttons all these are as simple to
handle as tucks on a baby's little skirt.
Verily, this is the heyday of the home
dressmaker and she should take ad
vantage of her opportunity while it
lasts, for who knows when "difficult"
styles will be in fashion again.?
'- Tab Frock F.nnlly Jlsdc.
But the ambitious home-dressmajter
should confine her endeavors to simple
tub costumes for morning and after
noon wear. The new silk costumes
nffer untold complications for unskill
ful scissors, especially the costumes
combining silk with chiffon. Chiffon
is particularly hard to handle success
fully, though net and point d-esprit
may be managed by even a tyro. Inde
structible voile is a lovely fabric, like
chiffon in texture, so fine is its weave,
but it is more manageable in the han
dling and is much more durable than
chiffon. In pure white it is especially
'beautiful and airy, and it comes also
In all the evening tints and In charm
ing flowered and printed patterns.
Linen is a fabric that the home
. dressmaker may cut into without
Qualms. However simple in style, a
linen costume is always distinctive. In
cutting out linen, allow roomy meas
urements throughout the frock, for this more than 10, and will have better
material is not soft enough to gather
or tuck satisfactorily and fullness
must be allowed in the cut, which
should never be skimpy. Always shrink
linen before cutting: or at least put
In deep hems, and allow enough ex
cess material below the waistband to
permit of the belt being lowered after
the bodice has shrunk up as it as
suredly will unless the shrinking is
done before the material is out.
Expert Work Sot Required.
Many women manage smart summer
tallleurs of linen or kindred fabric, by
making the skirt at home and having
a tailor build the coat. Expert tailor
ing is not required for an informal,
belted coat of linen, which will be
tubbed several times during the season.
Be sure that the little tailor around
the corner knows exactly what lines
you desire in your coat, then let him
make it for it or IS. If the linen costs
say 35 cents a yard and you make a
plain, flare-gored skirt at home, the
suit should not cost, buttons and all.
MENUS OF THE WEEK
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
- - Sunday.
Tomato bouillon.
Oyster plant loaf with oyster sauce.
Broicn potato rings.
Acparasus salad mayonnaise.
Sponke with prune whip tilling.
Coffee.
Monday.
Potato aoup.
EpanUa omelet with peas and rice.
Apple, cabbage and nut salad.
Fig pudding.
Cufiee.
Tuesday.
Fish chowder.
Tecetarlan alow In potato border.
Lettuce and orange salad
Rice cream with cherry preserves.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Crecy soup.
Fish loaf, anchovy sauca,
grown potato strings.
Chicory aalad.
Apple pie.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Vegetarian broth.
Italian spaghetti ia casserole,
with cheese and tomatoes.
Celery and apple salad.
Blancmange.
Coffee.
Friday.
Green pea puree.
Nut loaf with cream sauce.
Glazed onions.
Canned pear salad.
Caramel Junket with cookies.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Cream of celery soup.
Curried eggs In rice border.
Cabbage with plmeto salad.
-Baked apples with 'data-stuffing.
Coftea,
stylo than a ready-made suit at that
nrice could possibly have. Summer
tailor-mades for beach and country
wear are being built of the hew khaki
kool, a delightful silk fabric with a
pongee-like texture but a deal more
distinction than part-cotton pongee
ever possessed. This new khaki-kool
comes In various tan and natural
shades, in putty, battleship gray, and
a lovely pearl gray tint. It may be
had, also, in white and in oyster-white
It makes perfect motoring coats for
Summer days and by the bye, a motor
coat is something that can be built
quite successfully in the home dining
room, if one has a good pattern, and
if the coat is taken' to a tailor for a
final preassing.
Button Holes Are Vital.
Button holes should also be worked
by a professional, if they are needed.
So many buttonholes nowadays are
merely indicated by embroidery or
corded piping, the garment closing easi
ly and securely by snap-fasteners. This
is a sensible arrangement for these
snaps are easy to fasten, and the use
of them on a tailored coat does away
with the sagging and spreading of but
tonholes a detriment to any coat.
The home-dressmaker should learn to
rely upon these invaluable little snap
fasteners which hide themselves away
among pleats, ruffles and draperies so
cleverly, yet are always ready to catch
the right edges securely together.
These snaps do not protrude at the
wrong moment as do hooks, to tear
delicate lace flounces, or worse yet. at
tach themselves so persistently to one's
brassier, just at the email of the back,
when the gown is half over the head
that one has to seek help to become dis
entangled. Klght Accessories Add Style.
The woman who makes her own dres
ses this Summer should be more than
ever particular about her costume-accessories,
for smart small belongings
will help amazingly to make up for
any deficiencies in the frock. With
the new cotton tub frocks buttoned
boots, also of white cotton or, in other
words, white duck will be en regele.
These boots have graceful lines, very
light soles and curved heels and are
as dainty as woman could wish.
Patent leather pumps with stockings
of natural colored silk are considered
smart with frocks in any color but
pure white. Hat, gloves and parasol
should also be carefully selected so
that the ensemble may lack no note of
correctness.
Smart New Costume Is of
Tan Worsted and Mohair.
Snort Flare Skirt Reveals Slim
-Black Leather Pumps and Stock
ings of Natural Silk.
o
NE of the smartest costumes for
young women, exhibited on a liv
ing model at a recent opening, was of
pale tan worsted and mohair mixture,
made with a short, flare skirt reveal
ing the new slim, black leather pump
guiltless of buckle or bow and stock
ing of natural silk. A little coat, but
toning high to the throat, was sur
mounted by a tall cnoker collar of
white organdie, with points reaching
up over the cheeks, and a broad stock
of black satin holding it in place. The
coat had a belt and a pleated coattail
at the back. This knowing Spring cos
tume was completed by a tiny black
satin hat with slashed sailor brim and
a floating veil of black mesh with an
all-over vinet pattern.
mm
For the little boy there is a Dickens'
suit made of knitted worsted, just the
thing for cool mornings in the country.
A buttoned waist of light brown worst
ed has ribbed cuffs and a turnover col
lar of darker brown, matching the
small breeches which button to the
knitted worsted waist in approved
Dickens fashion. These little suits
come in various color combinations and
two-color effects and the price seems
modest, only $2.
Smart blouses for morning wear are
of fine white linen with bands of pale
colored linen applied with hemstitching
in the same shade. Collar and cuffs
are also of the colored linen. Such a
blouse for wear with skirts or white
mohair or corduroy, is of white French
linen with hemstitched bands of du
Bary pink two bands down each side
of the front and two bands at the back.
The collar has fashionable height at
the back, but is opened quite low at
the front for coolness and comfort on
Summer mornings.
.
The Spring handbag should be small
and of dainty style, made of fine pin
seal, suede or colored morocco, with a
strap handle and covered' frame. Pleat
ed moired bags are replaced now by
gathered bags of faille classique silk,
and the most fashionable lining color
is pale yellow.
JEST HAS FATAL ENDING
Man's Retort "Shoot!" to Stranger
Is Answered by Shot.
CHICAGO, Mar. 17. When Harry
Hein was accosted at an entrance to
Jackson Park Sunday night by , a
stranger who pointed a revolver at
him and said, "Put up your hands or
I'll shoot." Hein laughed and replied,
"Shoot," continuing his walk. The
stranger fired and vanished into the
park shrubbery. Hein died later.
Tho police have a description of the
assailant, who, they assert, apparently
had no reason for shooting, as no at
tempt was made to rob Hein.
Miss Annie Gouthro, 6047 Harper
avenue, at whose home Hein roomed,
said the murdered man's parents live
in Spencer, Wis., and that he has sev
eral cousins in St. Paul.
FRILLS ON GLOVES IS
FASHION'S LATEST FAD
Ruffled Glove With Long Sleeve Is Made in America of Fine White Cotton
and Is Declared Exceedingly Dainty and Feminine.
FRILLS OS MILADY'S (LOTES NOW.
FRILLS are blossoming out every
where on woman's dress, these
days and the ruffle is at its apex
of popularity. The latest item of the
wardrobe to acquire a frill ia the long
wristed glove for wear with Summer
frocks and blouses that have three
quarter sleeves and that a great many
of the new costumes will have these
comfortable sleeves one has only to go
to the Spring openings to observe.
This new ruffled glove has the merit
of being made in America. It is of fine
white cotton and the tiny pleated ruffle
runs all the way up the outer seam
fiving an extremely. . feminine and
alnty effect. ....
VARIOUS ACTIVITIES BRING WOMEN
INTO REALM OF REAL PROMINENCE
Grand Opera Star Owns Prize-Winning Hound Cordelia Biddte Makes Debut Young Stage Star, Miss Irene
Fenwick, Makes Phenomenal Success on Broadway Serbian Girl Organizing American Aid for Serbia.
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NEW YORK, March 27. (Special.)
Anna Case is one of the minor
sopranos of the Metropolitan
Opera Company. She is well known
to the concert stage. Incidentally she
is a lover of dogs and her Russian
wolf hound "Ranco o' Valley Farm."
took first prize at the Westminster
Kennel Club show in Madison Square
Garden recently.
m
One of the most attractive members
of the Congressional set in Washington
is Mrs. Charles H. Dillon. This is her
second Winter in Washington, but she
has occupied a conspicuous position in
the social life of South Daota for many
years. Her husband is serving his first
term in Congress from that state.
Cordelia Biddle. daughter of A. J.
Drexel Biddle, of Philadelphia, made her
debut in January. She is an accom
plished girl, fond of sports.
Miss Irene Fenwick, one of the
youngest stars on Broadway, has made
a phenomenal success in one of the
most difficult roles. Miss Fenwick is a
native of Philadelphia, her family be
ing one of the pioneer settlers of the
Quaker City.
After going to an exclusive girl's
finishing school. Miss Fenwick turned
towards the stage and, after two years
of playing in minor roles, she was se
lected as the heroine in Sudermanrt's
"The Song of Songs," dramatized by
Edward Sheldon.
Miss Helen Losanitch, daughter of the
ex-Minister of Agriculture and Com
merce of Serbia, is in the United States
to ask help in rehabilitating her native
country. Seeds for Serbia that is her
plea. Serbia also needs agricultural im
plements and grain for immediate use,
and Miss Losanitch and a companion
Mme. Grouitch, wife of the Serbian
Permanent Under-Secretary of Foreign
Affairs are on a mission to obtain the
needed supplies. Miss Losanitch has
been acitve in organizing many field
hospitals for the Serbian army. There
was no regular Red Cross Society in
Serbia, and the Circle of Serbian Sis
ters, of which Miss Losanitch was one
of the leading spirits, determined to
supply the lack. The women trained
themselves in nursing and first aid.
with the result that, when Serbia was
pr mi4&-
V.
Afros'. CAas.Jf. &lon
at war with Turkey, the army was
well supplied with a firmly established
and well-trained hospital corps.
SIMPLICITY IS REGARDED
AS KEY TO HAPPINESS
Life-Old Search Taken Up by Hindu Poet and Fruitful in Silent Sky and
Flowing Waters Is Interpreted by Barbara Boyd.
BY BARBARA BOYD.
. i
THE search Tor nappiness i
as life itself. It began in the
Garden of Eden when the posses
sors of that fact, not satisfied with
what they had. started to get more.
And now a Hindu poet comes for
ward with a simple recipe for happi
H is a great noet. too. the idol
of his country, a winner of the Nobel
prize, a mystic who seems to nave so
riMr a vision of
truth that he
could satisfactorily
answer the ques
tion Pilate has sent
echoing down the
ages. So that what
he says about find
ing happiness Is
surely worth con
sidering .
This is his recipe
f0"MyPnPeart is full.
and I feel that happiness is simple,
like a meadow flower.
Easerness I Too Great. .
nr.. cra sn it with cruel eagerness.
anH crush it: we iumn beyond it In our
mad pursuit, and miss it forever.
"I look around me and see the silent
sky and the flowing waters, and feel
, 1 . V... nntnoCB 1 X RTired &brOad 8S
simply as a smile on a child s face.
Some of us will not agree 10 mis.
We do not see complete happiness in
-i lnwai anri flnwin&r water.
These would not suffice us, we say, to
fill our cup or nappmess to uveniuwius.
We might find some pleasure in them.
. A v. .nnf,t with thAsA would be
UUL IU - "
to resemble somewhat a ruminant ani
mal satisfied to stana Knee-aeep m
grass under the shade of a-tree In a
meadow.
But do you think the poet meant
these actual things or what they stand
for intelligence, government by fixed
laws, beauty, supply?
"Happiness," he said, "is spread
abroad as simply as a smile on a child's
face."
Child's Smile Significant.
What does the smile on a child's face
really signify mere animal content or
something deeper, something that
takes hold of eternal facts of life?
If we would look to its real signifi
cance, wouldn't we find it the latter?
Is not a child happy in the expres
sion of life? The life-force he finds In
him is sufficient for him. He does not
question It. He feels It can take care
of itself. H is happy in activity, in
enjoying the world that is about him.
The moment he reaches out for some
thing beyond himself, the moment he
wants something outside of what this
life In him supplies, he gets not happi
ness, but unhappiness. As soon as dis
satisfaction, discontent comes, then
comes unhappiness. Just as the poet
says, "We Jump over it in our mad pur
suit and miss it forever."
Overreaching; Is Deplored.
And by this condemnation of over
reaching is not meant that we should
curtail the expression of true activity
or life-force within us for growth or
development, but simply all expression
outside or beyond this. While we real
ize we are resting on the "everlasting
arms," as the Bible puts it, and content
in the power that supplies us, express
the activity it gives us, we find happi
ness. But when we grow doubtful of
this power. When we feel it is not suf
ficient, when we begin to think that to
get happiness we must reach out for
ourselves and grasp as happiness, the
chimeras of our own brain, then, will
we not, as the poet says, "crush it,
miss it altogether?"
For. knowing that our self-expression
is already determined for us, if
we will but use our eyes and see it,
and by an intelligence far superior to
any human intelligence we can bring
to bear on the subject, knowing that
our supply Is sure and abundant, can
we not look about at the silent sky
and the flowing water knowing the
power, the might, the Intelligence
these represent and see happiness
spread all about us? Cannot our hearts
be full, knowing that happiness is
here for us to take and enjoy as simply
and fully as a child expresses the lit
it feels.
Happy Medium of Luggage
Most Desired for Trip.
Small llrms Trunk Willi IVrreiMil
tle Sufficient for fomfort l AH
That Is Sirrded on Short Visit
to Fair.
LUGGAGE should be reduced to ths
least possible dimensions, every
aded pound in a handbag or sultcaso
is a burden in Spring nnd Summer time.
Most people who go to California this
year will make the trip within the lim
its of a few weeks' business vacation
at most a month and for this period
of time a small dress trunk or a steam
er trunk should be ample, eked out by
the traveling bag or suitcase carried In
the train.
For the overland Journey provide. Be
side the traveling suit of pongee, silk
faille or mohair a frock of pussy wil
low taffeta In some dark coloring and a
fresh blouse for every morning of ths
Journey by train.
Fresh gloves nnd fresh veils also
should be avsllable. unless one wishes
to look limp and demoralized at the end
of the trip. A white veil washed out
every day will seem to stand the grlmo
and dust of a railroad Journey better
than a black veil which has becomo
limp and dusty. White veils In tho new
trellis and fllarda meshes are partic
ularly becoming and smart.
In the trunk should be a second frock
of silk, a belted sport suit of tsn or
gray kahkk-gool for sightseeing at tha
Exposition, a Panama hat. soma com
fortable walking shoes and a thin
frock or two of wash silk or voile for
evenings at the hotel It is always
restful, after a day's sightseeing, to
change to a pretty, thin frock.
Buttoned boots will be most com
fortable In the long run for slghtscelnc
Jaunts, for when tho ankles are firmly
supported weariness does not seem to
attack one so soon. The chance to low
pumps or slippers may be made In tho
evening.
The least amount of underwear com
patible with fastidious neatness should
be carried. Silk undergarments may bs
washed out in one's room at a pinch
and these garments are so soft they
may be packed Into amazingly small
space. Envelope chemises of pussy
willow silk will answer for two gar
ments of ordinary comblns-tlon. Corset,
brasslers and petticoat will be the only
other thing required.
Make two circular flare flounces for
the same petticoat top, applying them
with snap-fasteners, and much greater
comfort will be possible than when ons
silk pettier f Is worn continuously.
BAD
COLD
HEADACHY
REGULATE YOUR
OR BILIOUS?
BOWELS! 10 CENTS
Break a bad cold? Yes! Surest way
In the world Is to take two Cascarets
tonlght'and you will wake up with a
clear head and the cold gone. Try this!
If headachy, stuffed up and sore all over
from a cold or grippe give your liver
and bowels a thorough cleansing with
Cascarets and you will wonder In tha
morning what became of your mlssry-
making cold.
Cascarets is the surest cold breaker
known a 10-cent box will prove It
Mothers should cure children's colds
this way no harm no dangerous drusa.
CANDY CATHARTIC
IOXCS -ANY
O 25 Sx SO CCN-
SO CENT BOXES -ANY DRUG STORE
ALSO 85 Sx SO CCMT BOXCS;