The Sunday Oregonian., February 28, 1915, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 59

THE SUNDAY OEEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY S3, 1915.
SAUCILY TRIM IS KHAKI.KOOL SILK
COSTUME FOR TRIG MILITARY MAID
Brass Eagle Buttons Are in Evidence on Short Jacket, Known as Joffre Coat Belt of Red Suede With Leather
Straps Goes With Full Skirt Above Unadorned Pumps.
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SAUCILY trim and trig as the heart
of a military maid could wish is
this little costume of the new
khaki-kool silk In natural tone with
coat linings and pipings of scarlet
puesy willow taffeta. Brass eagle but
tons trim the short jacket, which is
called the Joffre coat, after the cora-mander-tn-chlef
of the French army.
The belt Is of red suede with red
leather straps, and the full ekirt with
Its new side pockets Is short enough
to show stockings of natural Bilk and
new pumps without vestige of bow or
buckle.
Woman has not forgotten how per
fectly satisfactory covert cloth used to
be as a coat material, and are welcom
ing It back enthusiastically. This
good-looking covert top coat has a belt
loping one way and a lower edge
sloping another, but the effect Is pleas
ing none the less.
The big square buttons covered with
the material are another novel fea
ture. The coat is worn over a country
club frock of pearl gray khaki-kool. a
new silk weave which is admirable for
outing costumes becau.se of Its
strength combined with fine texture.
Better have no tfprlng suit at all than
to have one with too Ions a skirt. All
tailored costumes now escape the pave
ment by at least six inches and the
well-shaped buttoned walking boot Is
a salient feature of tiie costume.
The practical tailleur for early
Spring is of gaDaraine in a new shade
of dark green and the coat has jet but
tons. The belt, slipping under the
fronts, is a new feature, and the oddly
set pockets are particularly smart. The
coat is lined with black and white
checked pussy willow silk and this silk j
appears on the collar-facing.
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Answers to Correspondents
BT LILLIAN TINGLE.
Portland, Feb. 4. TVUl you kindly I'll me
f torn way to rook calves' brains beside
frying; and creaming? We find those a
trifl monotonous.
AlfO have you any rule for making brown
bread ice cream such as I have eaten in ho.
tels? When I have tried mixing bread
crumb with cream It does nut have the
crisp taste the original has. K. W. F.
w-OLLOWIXG are Borne suggestions
V for the serving of calves' brains.
Of course In each case the prelimi
nary blanching and parboiling must be
understood. I Judpre that the sugges-
(Inns will he enoutrh for you. but If
you want any particularTeclpe, please
let me know.
Ways of serving calves' brains:
1. Scrambled with eggs on toast, with
or without chopped parsley.
I. Scrambled with eggs, chopped ham
and mushrooms, or chopped green pep
pers. 3. " With poulette sauce, white mush
room, tomato, or Spanish sauce, in
patty shells, timbales, bread or biscuit
cases.
4. An gratln; alone, or with hard
eg;rs. oysters or mushrooms.
5. In croquettes; piain, or combined
with hard eggs, peas or asparagus tips.
. In an omelette, with or without
chopped ham or tongue or green pep
pers. T. Fried In batter with a piquant
rcmoulde or tartare sauce.
8. Saute, with olives.
9. Breaded, and baked or fried, with
Haviquote sauce.
10. As a part of a dish of Italian
"mixed fritter."."
II. En brochette, with bacon and
fresh mushroom caps, or sliced purl
balls. '
12. Chopped and made into "brain
"cakes." with egg, parsley, mace, lemon
juice, salt, pepper and if liked, a few
white bread crumbs, fried and served
alone with creamed peas or asparagus
tips.
13. Brain cakes as above, served on
toast or coutons, with black butter,
topped with an egg cooked In the but
ter. A small muffin ring will secure
a good shape for the gently fried egg.
14. Chop equal parts brains and har4
eggs, heat gently In white sauce with
or without a few peas or chopped green
pepper or canned pimento and serve on
toast with or without tiny browned
sausages as a garnish and accompani
ment. 15. Roll In thin slices of bacon, se
cure with a toothpick and broil; or dip
in batter and fry.
IS. Curry the brains and serve in a
border of boiled rice.
17. Heat in Spanish sauce and pour
over polenta cakes. j
In general, brains may be served In
any way In which you are In the habit
of usinir sweetbreads.
I don't know that the following is
what you want, but you might try It.
Some of the crumbs are sometimes
soaked in a little sherry, or rum, or
maraschino, any of which will give
"crisp" sort of taste to a bread ice
cream. Another way is to use equal
carts brown bread crumbs and raaca
roon crumbs. or one-third bread
crumbs, one-third macaroon crumbs
and one-third finely chopped nut meats.
Brown bread ice cream Three pints
cream. IK cups dried and finely sifted
brown bread crumbs. of a cup sugar,
teaspoon salt. Soak 1 cup crumbs in
one uuart cream for 15 minutes. Rrfb
through a sieve, if necessary; add salt,
sugar and remaining cream, and freeze
In the usual way. If a granular con
sistency is liked, add the remaining
cup of the finest sifted crumbs when
the cream is frozen to a musn. n
sherry, rum or marachlno Is to be
used, soak these crumbs in the liquor.
A few crumbs are sometimes sifted over
the cream just before serving. For a
smoother consistency, soak all the
crumbs and rub through a sieve before
freezing. Pulverized grape nuts are
sometimes used in place of all or part
of the crumbs.
Portland. Feb. J1. Will you please give
me the recipe for K bread, same as Is Being
now used in Germany? Inquirer.
I cannot, of course, give the exact
formula used by the German bakers.
It is stated, however, that one-third
potatoes are used in the "K" bread. I
gave a recipe for potato bread of some
what similar proportions (such as was
used by our great-grandmothers in
times of wheat scarcity) in The Ore
gonian of January 10. You probably
can obtain a copy from the business
office. The recipe is on the front page.
I have had a number of letters re
porting excellent success with this po
tato bread. The exact amount of flour
needed will vary with the kind of flour
and the moisture of the potatoes. If
home-made liquid yeast has to be used,
it must be fresh and strong. One and
one-half cups will be needed, and the
amount of water should be proportion
ately reduced. Fresh compressed yeast
la surer.
Portland, Jan. 6. Can you tell me how to
make graham bread, such as we set at the
baker's? Any other recipe that you know
to be good will do it you have not that. I
have tried several, but the bread always Is
so solid, not light and spongy like bakers'
bread. Thanking you in advance. T.
A recipe for entire wheat bread was
given last Sunday. I hope you saw it.
Graham bread may be similarly made,
but will not be very light and spongy."
It will, however, be better in flavor
than the "spongier" kind, which. Is
often made with half white and half
graham flour, or one-third white and
two-thirds graham. Some bakers use
soda in graham, or part graham bread,
in which molasses is used, besides the
usual yeast sponge. This also tends
to give a Hghter texture. Graham and
entire wheat flours are sometimes made
out of poorer grades of wheat, in which
case the bread will be improved by the
addition of one-third to one-half good
patent flour.
The following is a bakery formula
reduced to domestic- quantities: Gra
ham bread One quart lukewarm water,
one fresh compressed yeast cake, one
level tablespoon salt, one-fourth cup
molasses, two tablespoons shortening.
Set the sponge with half the liquid
and the yeast, using half graham and
half strong patent flour. Let rise to
the drop. Add the rest of the water,
salt molasses and melted shortening.
with graham flour to make a slack, me
dium dough. Let half rise, then cut
down and place in greased pans. Let
three-fourths rise and bake in a me
dium oven (350 F.) Brush with butter
alter baking.
Straight dough graham bread One
quart lukewarm water, two yeast cakes,
three tablespoons melted shortening,
two to four tablespoons molasses, one
level tablespoon salt, or more or less
to taste. Mix one-third strong bread
flour and two-thirds graham. Mix the
yeast in the water with the molasses
and salt, add the shortening and flour
to make a medium dough. Set at a
temperature of 70 degrees F. Let it
rise well, but not drop. Work over
and place in greased pans. Let rise
and bake in a medium oven. The mo
lasses may be omitted if the flavor is
not liked.
Portland, Feb. 3. Please give recipe for
cooked saiad dressing. What is wrong wnen
mayonnaise curdles? Thanking you In ad
vance. Reader.
I wish you had told me how rich a
cooked salad stressing you want and
whether for keeping or for immediate
use.
The simplest cooked dressing is an
ordinary white sauce, to which you add
"to taste" (according to the kind of
salad you are going to make) vinegar,
mustard, salt, pepper and sugar.
For a richer dressing, you may beat
In one or two egg yolks to every cup
of white sauce, cooking the mixture
over hot water to "set" the egg. More
egg yolks, with a diminishing quantity
of iiour, are used for richer ' dress'
ings, until you reach equal measures
of eggs and liquid, for a very rich
"keeping" dressing that has to be di
luted with milk or cream and seasoned
to suit the particular salad before being
used. In general, you may take any
"boiled" custard you are accustomed to
make and by reducing the milk a little
and adding vinegar, either with or
without one or two tablespoons oil or
butter, and condiments to taste, in place
of sugar and flavoring, you will have
a "cooked dressing" which may be com
bined with whipped cream or egg for a
"fluffy" texture, or used alone, or in
combination with mayonnaise.
Following are examples of cooked
dressings to be modified to suit indi
vidual taste and different salads. In
any case never boil "boiled" dressing
after the egg goes in, or you are likely
to have a curdled mass Instead of a
smooth custard.
Cooked salad dressing. 1. Two
eggs, one-half cup vinegar, one cup
rich milk, one tablespoon oil or but
ter, one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon
mustard, one-fourth teaspoon pepper,
one to two teaspoons sugar if liked.
Mix the oil and dry ingredients and add
the eggs. Beat 3 to 5 minutes. Add
the vinegar and beat 1 minute, add the
milk. Cook over hot water about 10
tninutes or until creamy. Stir all the
time. Stir while cooling to avoid a
skin on the top. Bottle what is not
needed for immediate use. If butter is
used in place of oil add just before
taking the sauce from the fire. Four
egg yolks may take the place of the
two whole eggs, when egg whites can
be utilized for other purposes.
Cooked dressing. 1. Use two egg
yolks or one whole egg and one table
spoon flour. Other ingredients and pro-
Dortions as in No. . l. mko a wnite
sauce with tha butter, flour and milk.
Add the condiments, well beaten egg
and vinegar. Cook over hot water to
set the egg. Cool and use as above.
For a cheaper dressing use one egg
yolk and one and one-half tablespoons
flour.
Cooked "stock" dressing one cup :
egg yolks, one cup vinegar. Beat to
gether and cook over hot water until
thick. Cool and store in a covered
glass jar. When wanted for use diluta
a small quantity with cream, or beat
in a little melted butter and dilute
with milk, or beat, in oil and milk, or
whipped cream, or cream and whipped
egg to secure the proper consistency
for the particular salad you are malt
ing. Add condiments suitable for the
kind of salad. For instance potato
salad would need the maximum of salt,
pepper or paprica and mustard, with
possibly some' additional vinegar. A
fruit salad would need very little salt
and possibly a little sugar, with either
none or only the smallest trace of
other condiments, depending upon the
sort of fruits used. This dressing was
suggested in a recent demonstration
by Mrs. Nellie Kedzie Jones as a con
venient "store" foundation dressing to
be made when eggs are low in price.
LShe stated that it will keep several
jmonths in a c6oI place if tightly
coverexl. Yolks left over from wnite
cakes and angel cakes and white frost
ings can be used up economically in
this way.
Curdling of mayonnaise is usually
due either to mixing in a warm room
materials not properly chilled, or else
to too great haste in adding the oil.
Cooling and beating with a spoonful
of crushed ice is sometimes helpful, or
the beating in of a teaspoonful or more
cf egg white. As a last resource take a
fresh egg yolk and start in over again
with the curdled mixture. Sometimes
mayonnaise curdles because not enough
vinegar has been added in proportion
to the oil already beaten with the egg.
If you suspect this try adding a tea
spoonful of vinegar before anything
else.
Lent Is Time to Recuperate
From Bustle of Year.
Relief From Social Activity Afford
ed, nm Well as Chance to Benefit
by Fast or to Flan Spring Clothes.
THE melan-!'.uly days of Lent soon
will be upon us and we shall hear
the "sighs of many women bewailing
the lack of social activity and wonder
ing' what on earth to do with their
time. The wise of their generation will
have no trouble, however. They will
accept the temporary lull with thanks
giving and set themselves to all sorts
of'useful tasks.
Lent is pre-eminently a time for rest.
One woman who passes most of her
time in the gay occupations of society
said the other day that she looked for
ward to Lent as the most enjoyable
time of the year.
"I would never be able to go as I
do the rest of the time if I did not have
this period to restore my normal equi
librium and store up health for the rest
of the year," she said.
Whether you have any faith In any
religious cult or not you could do noth
ing better for your health than adhere
to the fast ordered by some of the
churches. This is especially true of
those who wish to reduce, nor will it
do any less than fatten those who wish
to gain weight.
It seems queer that it works both
ways, but the scientific explanation
lies in the fact that by giving the di
gestive organs a rest we make them
more capable of performing their natr
ural functions.
The diet prescribed is one full meal
a day not to be taken before noon. A
cup of hot milk, coffee, or chocolate in
the morning with a slice of bread. At
night a light collation, not more than
one- course of a usual meal. Twice a
woair mit Is eliminated at the prin-I
cipal meal and fish or eggs substituted.
No lunching before going to bed and
no drinking of tea or coffee and eating
of rich pastry in the afternoon.
You may say that you wouia De win
ing to follow the diet ir you couia una
some way to fill your time. If you want
to add to the benefit of the diet take
some exercise. Walk for half an hour
in the morning before your full meal.
Then the Spring styles are usually in
before Lent begins and it is a good time
to plan your Spring clothes, to make
waists and dainty Summer dresses. One
thrifty woman makes her Christmas
presents for the next year in Lent. She
usually gives pretty embroidered guest
towels, collars, and so forth. Another
who has a passion for beautiful lin
gerie, sewed diligently on exquisite
crepe de chine undergarments, which
she wore the rest of the year.
Lent is a wonderful chance for the
studious to perfect themselves in a
chosen field. The study of a language
or music or a recommended course of
reading will pleasantly fill days that
would otherwise seem barren.
If you belong to a card club, convert
it into a study class this year and you
will be surprised and delighted at your
own cleverness at the end of 40 days.
Choose an entertaining subject the
plays of some well-known and interest
ing author, for instance, and read them
and discuss them at the meeting.
Married Man nnd Hero.
Philadelphia Record.
Muggins That little shrimp doesn't
look like a hero, does he? Bugglns
Great Scott! no! What has he ever
done? Muggins He's been married six
times.
WOMEN WHO PROVE VALUABLE AIDES
TO PROMINENT HUSBANDS SNAPPED
Mrs. Arthur Capper and Mrs. Moses Alexander Rule Over Executive Mansions of Kant.au and Idahn
ful Wife of Flotilla Commander Entertains Often at National Capital.
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EW YORK, Feb. 27. (Special.) I
Mrs. Moses Alexander is the wife i
of the new Governor of Idaho. Mr. ;
Alexander is the firef Hebrew to be
elected Governor of a state.
Mrs. B. Sweeney is the wife of the
Assistant Secretary of the Interior. She
is unusually tall and of the true blonde
type, with beautiful golden hair. She
is a suffragist and much interested in
modern civic movements. She drives
her own automobile and calls for the
Assistant Secretary to take him home
after his day's work.
Mrs. Leigh C. Palmer is one of the
beauties of the Navy circle in Washing
ton. Her husband, Lieutenant-Commander
Palmer, is now in command of
the seventh division, torpedo flotilla,
and raises his flag on the McDoug.rl.
During his period of duty in Washing
ton the Palmers entertained a great
deaL Lieutenant-Commander Palmer
was the representative of the Navy at
the wedding of King Alfonso.
t ' .
Countess Forgach is one of the many
titled Austrian women who have be
come Red Cross nurses. The Countess
is the wife of the late Austro-Hun-garian
Minister to Serbia. It was he
who presented the ultimatum of his
country to Serbia the fateful paper
which brought about the great world
war.
e
For the first time in its history the
State of Kansas has a native son pre
siding over its destinies, and also for
the first time it has a native daughter
as the Governor's wife. Arthur Capper,
the new Governor of Kansas. Is the
owner of the Topeka Capital. Mrs.
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f k " N v vi"" ! ' . r '
li. Xv1 ViSr W'Ul)
er, who presides over I
t-' maiiKlnn w4 Vlorpnc
ford and Topeka was her home at thelcially, an al.le aide to her husband In
time she was married to the man who his pointful ambit Ions.
fannar- n-Yin .,.Ma nvoi lh (inV- U HOW (,OVertHir Of t'l " ' a M'.
ernor s mansion, was Florence t. raw-i tapper i a niarminn ...... r..-
Dainty Pajamas for Women
of Pussy Willow Silk.
Trousers Are Fnll at Top Saucy
Little Coata Flare Out, Giving -Decided
JVote of Gaiety.
r ETCHING pajamas for women are
of white pussy willow silk, with
frog and border trimmings in the mil
itary effect. Sometimes the borders
are pale lavender, sometimes a pale
pink; and there are equally fetching,
but lower priced pajamas of blue and
white plaid shirting madras, with plain
borders and the natty military cords
in white. Though following the gen
eral effect of masculine pajamas these
dainty feminine sleeping suits have a
decided gaiety of cut; the trousers are
full at the top, with a snap-fastened
closing down one side, and the saucy
little coats flare out from the arm
pits, coming just to the hip. At either
side of the coat are small pockets into
which the hands may be thrust Jaun
tily. Outing 6klrts, ready for tennis and
golf as soon as warm weather arrives,
are of white corduroy with a circular
flare cut and big pockets at either side.
Many of these skirts open all the way
down the front with pearl buttons and
buttonholes to add to the outing effect.
Others have . a snap-fastened closing
and buttons are added by way of trim
ming. Linen and pique skirts, made the
same way. show the flare cut and are
short enouah to reveal the buttoned
boot of white buckskin, or high, laced
outing boot with rubber sole.
Khaki-hool. a new pongee-like silk
in natural color. Is being shown In
smart motorcoats for Spring, and in
good-looking taillcurs for beach and
country club wear. The material haw
a crisp smartness which takes well to
tailored lines and promises to bo the
rage.
"Puriin" to Be Topic.
"Purim the Mask of Judaism," will
be Rabbi Wise's topic at Beth Israel to
night The Book of Esther will be the
topic tomorrow at 10:30. The children's
guild of personal service invites its
friends to a Purim party at B'nal
B'rith hall Saturday night. Bible class
Tuesday.
A
Her Unrrrlnif Instinct.
Liverpool (England) Mercury.
Mary I'm positive Fred loves me and
intends to make me his wife. Helen
Why? Has he proposed yet? Mary No;
but he dislikes mother more every time
he sees her.
Fashion's Litany Is for Sim
ple Garb.
hrllvrnsrr In 4kra From p aaa
l.lkr rratinna Bud t'nmnllratlnna
of Oilier JSallnna.
JIT CORDON SKAQItOVie
FROM straight lines, hip to Khouldrr;
from horrors of the basqua that
makes the poor beholder to quail at
fashion's task; from t-klrts both loose
and floppy; from small hats, high and
toppy; from fct both sharp and
choppy: from figures like a cask; from
skirts that make the thin girls a
witches In a shroud and make the triple
chin girls the sport of the crowd; from
hair that goes back waving, which h"
no grace that's saving, but makes all
girls look raving, or scared to doath,
or cowed: from hoopsklrts wild, un
ruly; from Co.ixack raiment loose that
nips and flops, and truly makes ons
look like the duece; from spata and
like creations; from gowns of other
nations; from further compltcntlnn
that art may Introduce good Lord, de.
liver us!
STORK-BASKET IS GIFT
FOR BABE OR MOTHER
All Things Necessary for Mending Are Provided for, While Japanese
Stork Presides With Appropriate Grace.
CONSTIPATION. COLOS. HEADACHES
. REGULATE YOUR BOILS!
10 CENTS
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rViaariaaaj-i!!,, 'iiV;feCii'-nWt'"rilffl'".;''.'
STORK" BASKET FOR BABY.
PRKTTT gift for the new baby,
or for baby's mamma, is a stork
mending basket of dainty de-
. . . 1.-1. A-lo
sign. The basKei is oi vm;n.OI ..u....
in dull gilt and trimmed with pale pink
ribbonsf The huge bow on the handle
ie of pink ribbon hand-painted, deli
cately in white and green. In the tot-
ha hanket is a quilted pad of
pink silk and the various sewing im
plements shirred pockets for spool
cotton and darning cotton, needle and
pin-cushions and so on, are ranged
around the sides of the basket.
Small garments to be mended and
tiny white stockings to be darned may
be heaped in the basket and a Japan
ese stork, balanced at one side pre
sides appropriately over the contents
of the mending basket
Furred tongue. Bad Colds, Indiges
tion, Sallow Skin and Miserable Head
aches come from a torpid liver and
constipated bowels, which cause your
stomach to become filled wtlh undigest
ed food, which bouts and ferments like
garbage in a swill barrel. That's the
first step to untold misery Indiges
tion, foul gases, bad breath, yellow
skin, severe colds, everything that I
horrible and nauseating. A Cam-aret to
night will Mirely straUhten you out by
morning a 10-rent box will keep your
head clear, stomach nweet. liver and
bowels regular and make you feel cheer
ful and bully for months.
Don't forget your children their llf
tie inrldp need a good, gentle rleansin.
too, occasionally.
CATHARTIC
xtslw ,0 cent BOsnr drug store rg'
Mrs 1. V. K.: Indeed, yes. Thirty Is
altogether too young to have wrinkles.
Fifteen minutes a dy will banish the
lines and wrinkles that are worrying
you Get from your druggist some
almozoln and glycerine. Take two tea
spoonfuls of the glycerine and one
ounce of the almozoin and mix with -j
pint of wnter. When this has been en
tirely dissolved. It will he in the form
of a fragrant cream jelly. Cleanse the
skin and drv thoroughly. Then apply
the almnzoin cream freely, ma.isnging
the wrinkles. The results of this treat
ment will surprise and delight you.
The starved tissues will become plump
and firm. The wrinkles will vanish,
leaving your ekln smooth and lovciy.
Gertrude: It is perfectly ntural to
want to be pretty. Every normal girl
wishes to he as Attractive as possible,
without having that made-up appear
ance. A good complexion is the first
requisite of a loveiy lace. i-purom
lotion will clear snd beautify your
skin. In pint or hot water or witcn
ha.el dissolve 4 ounces spurmax (you
can get It at any good drug storei.
then add 2 teasponnfuls glycerine. Ap
ply this to face, neck and arms and
rub lightlv until dry. Spurmax lotlnn
u invisible, anil srlves a lovely healthy
appearance to the skin without the use
The Home 13eautij Parlor 1
ti lerr uan
oily I
:f powder, and ymir ello,
ivili disappear at once.
. n. I..; Von are making bim
mistake in exercising eo vlolentlv a't
eating so llltla. You are elmplv elowlv
starving yourself to death. Trv this
simple nut effective remedy If you lh
to reduce. Dissolve ounces of purnolls
In 1 ) nitils hot water. Afier this ha
thcu ouKhly cooled It should h ( rained.
Tskii one aUesiionfn- tefor each
meal. This Is a harmless and erfwme.
wav of reducing weight. When Vu
have lost a mil' h weluht aa you wlsli,
you will find your flesh firm and solid,
nnd your skin will nut hang in wrin
kles or folds.
Gnldle: Yes. you can keep your hair
fluffv and soft if. Ilka I. you art verv
careful not to use makeshifts, hut
something Intended onlv for shampoo
ing. Canthrox will qiilcklv remove all
dandruff, excess oil and oust, making
the scalp so (lean and healthy thai the
hair crows heavy and long. 1 prenara
such a head wash at home at a cost of
about three cents per shampoo hv dis
solving one teaspoonful of canthrnx In
a cup of hot water. This keepa mv
hair so lustrous and fluffv that it
seems much heavier than it is.
Betty Dean'a Hu.au ty look, $5 Adv.