THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX. PORTLAND. JANUARY .'31, 101."?.
COSTUMES OF EUROPEAN PEASANTS
COPIED WITH CHARMING EFFECT
Sand and Wet Sand Are Two New Shades of Color Finding Many Devotees Spring Frocks Are Lashed With
Gold Braid to Give Military Suggestion Shoe Tops to Be in Sight. -
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roses, and patent leather slippers with
stockings of natural color.
It Is easier to adjust one of the loose
veils now worn over a turban than
over a wide-brimmed sailor. Veils- worn
with wide-brimmed hats are best sewed
in place, Fathering in the upper edge
of the veil slightly by pullingr a thread.
The turban now is invariably veiled,
and the smartest Aeils are diaphanous
ones which fall no lower than the chin
often not so low the ends being:
pinned loosely at the back with no at
tempt at tying. Therefore, the little
veil blows about gayly in the breeze
and adds much to the dashing Spring
costume.
It is almost impossible to keep the
hair smooth and neat through an even
ing of dancing unless a net is worn.
This need not be adjusted so closely as
to flatten the loose, soft waves of hair,
and if held in place by invisible hair
pins, it will not show at all. Never pull
a hair-net far over the forehead. It
should be adjusted so that -the front
hair is soft and loose. The part to be
kept trim and smooth Is over and Just
back of the ears.
AMERICAN GIRLS WIN PLACE IN
NEWS AT HOME AND ABROAD
Miss Elizabeth Reid Rogers to Become Princess Christian of Hesse Miss Callie Hoke Smith and Miss Eliza
beth Harding Are Southern Belles at Capital John Drew's Daughter to Go on the Stage.
THERE is a strong suggestion of the
peasant costume of a European
country In one attractive little
frock for home wear. Sand and wet
sand, two shades of brownish gray
now fashionable, are combined in the
costume with much advantage of con-
trast. The full skirt, pleated into the
waist line. Is of sand-colored pussy
willow taffeta, trimmed with bands of
the darker silk of which the peasant
bodice Is made. This bodice is pleated
at the waist under buttons covered
with the lighter pussy willow taffeta.
Frills 'of shadow lace edge neck and
sleeves.
Many of the new frocks for Spring
are of black taffeta combined effective
ly with checked or striped taffeta in
black and white combination. One
model has a graceful skirt of black
pussy willow tiff eta trimmed with flat,
bias bands of the silk. The bodice is
of black and white striped pussy willow
taffeta and over it rises one of the new
waistcoat effects which carry up the
line of the skirt over a contrasting
bodice. This waistcoat snap-fastens at
the shoulders, and bodice and belt but
ton with red enamel buttons.
In the costume of early Spring taf
feta will reach its climax of charm,
for no other material is so ideally
suited to the crisp flounces and gath
ered effects now the fashion. A Lenten
bridge frock Is of King's blue pussy
willow taffeta with a seven-flounced
skirt, each flounce being corded at the
edge to Increase the crisp effect. There
la a suggestion of the military In the
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sleeveless waistcoat embroidered . in
gold thread. The double collar of
cream net piped with blue is also a
clever imitation. Like all new frocks
this one is short enough to show the
buttoned boot.
HOME STITCHERY URGED
AS AID TO ECONOMY
Costly Lingerie and Silk Garments Recommended for Greatest Saving.
Tailored Style Said to Be Most in Vogue This Season.
THERE Is one part of the wardrobe i Snap fasteners are also better and safer
that can assuredly be provided than tapes for the culotte, and if you
more economically by home ' select the riht kind they will not rust,
.titchery. and that is lingerie. AllL The Pettiest coYset covers now are
y . . . , . . . 1 in surplice style, with the trimming
women love dainty underwear, but fordefininff a deep v at front and back
the sheer, soft, exquisitely desirable instead of a low, round neck, as for
garments the shops charge exorbitant I merly was the custom. Pussy willow
prices. .A crepe de chine chemise can
be fashioned at home in an afternoon
at a cost of 43 or less. A similar
chemise, fitted as daintily and trimmed
as prettily, if bought ready made will
cost probably from $6 to 10. Nigrtat-
cowns are easy to make, for they re
quire no special fitting process, and
three and a half yards of fine nain
sook at i5 cents a yard, with five yards
of lace at la cents a yard and a few
yards of ribbon in shower bows, will
achieve a robe du nuit that could not
be purchased under a $5, price.
ft rarelv pays to make petticoats or
corset covers at home, except in case
f elaborate models, like dancing- petti
coats of silk and lace with rose fes
toons for trimming', and corset covers
of lace or net for wear under trans
parent blouses. These "come higii" in
price in the shops and may wisely be
attempted at home, but good petticoats
and corset covers for ordinary wear
may be purchased for $1 anywhere at
any time, and it is better to put pre
cious moments of labor on garments
less easily obtainable. When buying
a petticoat of modest price always se
lect the largest size you can ct for
the sake of the extra width at the bot
tom. Cut the petticoat in half mid
way, fit the upper part neatly to your
hips and then gather the fuller lower
part to It with a neatly stitched felled
eura. Lap the upper section slightly
And use a snap fastener for the closing
Instead of tape strings, which are apt
to come untied and causo disaster.,
silk in white or taint flesh tint.
trimmed with deep. Vandyked val.
lace will make at dainty corset
cover for wear under the lace or net
blouse. Outline the surplice fronts
and. back with val. insertions and fin
ish the edge with a casing of doubled
net footing, run with half-inch satin
ribbon. This is a smarter finisli than
lace edging. Place two or three snap
fasteners at the front edges so that
the surplice may be adjusted high or
low to suit the bodice you happen to be
wearing.
An easy ana pretty way to make
nightgown that will look like a $5
model is to attach the lower part of
fine nainsook to a kimono yoke of
tucked batiste by means of a ribbon-
run beading-or inch and a half satin
ribbon run under, a shirring of net
footing. The batiste top is tucked in
tiny pin tucks, set two inches apart all
the way across the material. Then the
kimono top is cut out. Set the Kmpire
beading and ribbon rather low and
open the yoke 141 a deep V to this bead
ing at the front and not quite so low
at the back. Then work two or three
eyelet loops at the V edges, just above
the beading and lace together the
fronts with ribbon. Such a gown will
slip easily over the head without need
of unlacing the ribbons, which are put
in for modesty sake and for the sake
of prettiness. The short kimono
sleeves may be edged with lace, like
the V of the neck opening.
It is In silk lingerie that the greatest
eavinjj can be e f f ected. On e can not
get up a silk chemise or nightgown
at a cheap price, but it will be vastly
cheaper than the price of the garment
ready-made.
Pussy willow silk Is ideal for such
lingerie. It keeps its delicate color
better than crepe de chine when laun
dered, but, of course, such garments
are really best sent to the cleaners, for
if one can afford to wear extravagant
lingerie one is supposed to be able to
afford the expensive sort of freshen
ing. The smartest .silk lingerie now
is what is called "tailored" style; that
is. perfect fit and the least amount of
trimming are preferred to much elab
oration in the way of lace insets and
ribbons. Net footing set in with nar
row entre ' deux,- or hemstitching, is
particularly smart; vandyked edges of
val. are much used, and some lovely
trousseau garments of pink pussy wil
low silk are being edged with wide,
flat insertions of shadow lace, fitted to
the garment by mitred corners.
Little Talks Given to Housekeepers.
Correct Way to Make Embroidery
Eyelets Is Told fa Plain Langnage,
mo All Can Understand.
THE size of the eyelet and the even
ness of workmanship determine al
most entirely the attractiveness' of eye
let embroidery. Eyelets may be round,
oval, or pointed, the stitch in each case
being the same.
To open a round eyelet use a bone sti
letto. Set the point of the stiletto in
the center of the circle and push gently
through until the opening Is sufficient
ly large. With the point of the needle
turn the edges of the opening back and
under, then with a fine running stitch
outline the design. This prevents the
edge of the eylet from fraying.
After the eyelet is opened and out
lined, set the needle for the stitch just
outside of the outline of the eyelet.
Bring the point out in the opening
and pull through. Repeat until the
eyelet is completed. Fasten the
thread at the completion of each eye
let by running the needle back under
the last three or four stitches, then
pull it through and clip.
The stitch employed for eyelet work
is simply the overcasting stitch. It
should be pulled up firmly and evenly
at each stitch and should take up the
least possible amount of material.
Eyelet embroidery is used both alone
and in combination with French em
broidery and if well made Is unusually
beautiful. (Excerpt from correspond
ence study course in home economics.
University of Wisconsin Extension di
vision.)
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Knife and Fork Pace Out
Hours on Unique Clock.
New Timepiece In SonereBtlve of
Dreary Honrs of DrndeeiT
Kitchen
A KNIFE clips off the moments ana
a fork serves up the hours on this
unique clock, shaped like a frying pan,
and intended most probably for kitchen
use, for who would choose to have such
timepiece elsewhere In the house?
It migrht be, even, that the cook her
self would prefer something less
drearily suggestive of her dally drudg
ery In the way of a clock for the
kitchen shelf,- but at any rate the fry
ing-pan timepiece Is the essence of
novelty for the householder who is al
ways on the lookout for something
unique. -
The clock is really a rather high-
priced affair, for it is made of copper
and black enamel, the knife and fork
moving over a face of brilliantly burn
ished copper. It may be added also
that this eccentric clock keeps excel
lent time.
JBaz'n JYmw.
KW YORK, Jan. 30. (Special.)-
Eltzabeth Reid Rogers, daughter
of Mr. and Mrs. Richard Reid
Rogers, of Washington and New York,
was married recently in Berlin to
Prince Christian of Hesse. Miss Rogers
met the Prince at a ball in Cairo more
than a year ago. Prince Christian,
who is 27- years old, is the son of the
late Prince William, Landgrave of
Hesse. His mother, who was his fath
er's fourth wife, was Princess Augus
tine of Schleswig-Holstein.
Miss Callie Hoke Smith is the pretty
daughter of Hoke Smith the Senator
from Georgia and she helps her mother
to dispense a gracious hospitality in
their pretty home in Washington. Miss
Hoke Smith is one of the beauties of
the Southern set.
.
Miss Clare Louise Brett is one of
New York's pretty society girls who is
on the list o.' those to be wedded this
Winter. Htr engagement to James
Polk McKinley, Jr., has just been an
nounced. Miss Brett is the daughter
of Mr. and Mrs. George Piatt Brett,
who have a beautiful home on West
End avenue. Her mother was Marie
Tostevin.
Coming from a family of famous ac-
I Y
S .
tors and actresses, it is little wonder
that Miss Louise Drew, the daughter
of John Drew, shows that she has In
herited hur histionic genius rrom ncr
lonsr lineage of player folks. In pri
vate life. Miss Drew, who is appearing
in "It Pays to Advertise," Is considered
one of the most vivacious leaders of
the younger set in society.
...
Miss Elizabeth Harding is the daugh
ter of W. P. G. Harding, of Birming
ham. She is one of the belles of the
A -"in
Southern oily. This W'.nter she will
spend In Washington where her father
in now living nn a member of the Fed
eral Reserve Board. She hns already
made her bow to society st the Nation
al Capital and Is counting on an actlv
Winter there.
"LITTLE FROCK" IN NEWEST STYLE
IS SHORT WITH LIFTED WAISTLINE
Ankles Are Displayed, but Fashion Places Ban on Showing Wrists Taffeta Reaches Epoch Period and Sand
and Wet Sand Colors Are Two Most Favored Peasant Garments Inspire New Models.
I Best Use of Mirrors.
Use mirrors economically; make every
one count.
Place one, after the French fashion.
over the fireplace to reflect the room.
Or place one, in English fashion, be
tween the windows at the end or a long
narrow room to emphasize the light
Place one where it will reflect a
charming i glimpse of the garden
through a window opposite it.
Place one in the hall opposite the en
trance into the drawing-room or living-
room to give a sense of spaciousness.
Place one on a dark wall, where it
will catch the light.
Place one in a bedroom, where It will
reflect the mirror of the dressing table.
Even Valentine Cupids This
Year Smack of War.
Some Wear Soldier Capa ana Epau
lets Amid Usual Profusion of
Hearts and Darts.
Enormous Buttons Add Style
to New Spring Blouses.
Loose Veils Over Turban Are Eai7
to Adjust, but Thorn In Wlde
Brinyned Hata Are Best Sewed In
Place.
' T. Valentine's day is due on Sunday
t this year and therefore will be
celebrated on February 15, so there is
no reason why Cupid like everybody
else should not have his "blue Monday"
which every good housekeeper knows
is another term for that cheerless
household occasion, wash-day. Here is
Cupid, attired in a capacious apron.
"busily at work over the tub, scrubbing
the cobwebs off a heart. The pretty
little bisque figure will make a charm
ing place favor for the valentine lunch
eon and of course pink candies or salt
ed nuts will divide honors with the
heart In Cupid's washtub.
Some of the most fetching valentine
Cupids this year wear soldier caps and
HE fashionable womanbusy with I designers the possibility of adapting
many or the peasant costumes to iorm
original Spring models. The short,
gathered skirt and sleeveless bodice
worn over a guimpe of contrasting ma
terial may be taken as the basic Idea
in all these adapted peasant styles.
Usually they are quaint and pictur
esque, but rarely are they smart.
I.unebeon Kroelc 1m Hxample.
A rather pleasing example of this
style is shown in a luncheon frock for
Lnt, a dainty "little frock" of pussy
willow taffeta in the two most fash
ionable shades, and wet-sand. These
shades are in pale tan and grayish
brown tone and harmonize well. Other
neutral colors that are much favored
by fashion are putty, gunmetal, bat
tleship gray, winterfleld brown, smoke
and taupe gray. But sand leads the
lot in modishness and at least half the
new taffeta frocks for early Beason
wear are of sand or wet-sand hue.
There is a great tendency on the part
X used on the new Spring blouses, and
these mammoth buttons certainly give
much style to simple, high-necked mod
els. Usually, the buttons are of the
blouse material pussy willow silk,
goldenrod satin or Georgette crepe, but
they may be of fur, or plush, of chenille,
or even of bone.
One cannot but be impressed by the
prevalence of cream and butter tones in
new lingerie t rock a and blouses. A
smart new frock for the South is of
deep cream batiste with a short, gath
ered skirt showing alternate bands of
ecru filet insertion and nun tucks run
by hand. The cream and ecru frock is
dropped over white goldenrod satin,
which makes the creamy tone of the
batiste and lace delicate. With this
frock, will be worn a pale pink satin
sash, a lecrhorn hat trimmed with pink
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Laundry. Day for Cupid.
epaulets quite appropriately, for the
imagination of youthful femininity now
turns towards,- brass buttons and other
military effects. Hearts and darts are
as plentiful as ever on new crepe pa
per decorations for the valentine table
and there is a growing tendency toward
making all valentine missives captivat
ing, whether the sentiment thereon is
a declaration of affection, or a- "knock"
humorously expressed.
the whirl of late Winter pur-
suits, takes time at this season
to order two or three "little frocks'
of fetching style, which will tide her
over until actual Spring arrives with
its necessity for a radical change in
the wardrobe. The "little frock"
bought Just now will partake of new
fashion ideas and will give the right
touch of readiness and freshness to
the Winter wardrobe. It will be use
ful for Lenten bridge parties, musi-
cales and luncheons, and will be worn
of a morning, if a week-end trip out
of town is part of the Lenten pro
gramme.
Most of the new frocks turned out
by the shops are extremely short
at least six inches from the floor,
sometimes eight inches, but usually
there is a .deep hem, set in by hand, so
that the skirt may be lengthened
bit if one objects to showing so much
of the ankles. The lengthening or
skirt, however, may make the lines of
the frock all wrong, so tne woman
who undertakes to change a- ready-
made model must be careful.
Waistlines Are Lifted.
With the shortened skirts, waist
lines have been lifted considerably, and
if a skirt is let down, the distance
between Its new edge and the high
waistline may give the whole costume
awkward proportions. The normal
waistline is used by dressmakers in
frocks having full-length skirts, and
these skirts, of course, are most be
coming to large women, or to short
women of rather heavy figure. It is
only the sprite of a woman who is at
her best in a little rrock witn a nign
waistline and skirt which swings
clear of the ankle; and I beg of you,
if vour ankles are not beyond re
proach in the way of supple slender
ness. do not adopt the coquettish short
skirt!
Taffeta, it may be said, has reached
the epoch period in the fashions of
this season. This lustrous silk with
its soft, yet crisp, texture is ideal for
the new flounced and pleated skirt
effects, and where one desires some
thing more sheer for a bodice, a taf
feta bolero or waistcoat is dropped
over a waist of chiffon with long
sleeves.
And here is another point. All
sleeves are long, so very long that they
drop well over the hand. If ankle
bones are fashionable, wrist bones are
not; and moreover, a long sleeve to be
graceful must be long. There is no
uglier line than that of the long sleeve
chopped off just a bit too short at tne
wrist. Sometimes little currs or tarieia
finish the long sleeve of chiffon when
the frock itself is of taffeta. Black
taffeta dresses with a yard or two of
checked or striped black and white In
troduced in the bodice are exceedingly
smart. One sees also blue taffeta with
blue and white checked taffeta in
charming combinations.
A nrettv rrock or tnis sort, lust com
pleted for Lenten wear, is of blue and
white checked pussy wiiiow laiieia
combined with plain blue pussy willow
of the same shade. The skirt has a cir
ular cut and is gathered at tne sides
of the waistband, box pleats being set
in at center, front and back, thougn
these are merely indicated at the waist
line not stitched down. On this wide
circular skirt of blue pussy willow
taffeta there are three five-inch bias
flounces, corded at the edge. Over the
bodice of checked blue and white taffe
ta cut on the bias to bring the checks
into diamond suggestion. Is lined an
entirely new eton girdle of the blue
taffeta. This girdle has a clasp or
vivid red enamel touched with gilt and
there are rows of small, bright brass
buttons on the checked bedice. This
suggestion of the military is fetching.
It is shown again in a frock of Army
blue and white striped indestructible
voile which has blue cord frogs down
the front of the waist and up the sides
of the skirt above the knee.
Fuller skirts have suggested to the
MENUS OF THE WEEK
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
Tuesday
Lima Ban Soiid
Baked Smtlt Brown Mashed Potstoei
Celery and Apple Salad
Rice Cream 1'uddlnip
Coffee
Wednesday
clear Brown Vegetable Soup
Braised Short rtlns of Beef Potatoes
Mafhed Tnrplps
Tomnto Jelly Salad
-Apple TapSiru with Cream
Coffee
Thuraday
, Celery Soup
Beef Curry with Uir-e
Chutney
Lettuce Salad
Ratfdn Tie
Coffee
Friday
nice Tomato Soup
Baked Halibut, Chopped Pickle Sauce
Potatoes
Cabbage and Nut Salad
Graham Date Pudding, Lemon Sauce
Coffee
Saturday '
Brown Onion Soud
Meat Loaf. Brown Sauce
Scalloped Potatoes Stewed Celery
orange Salad
Chocolate Blanc Mance
Coffee
Sunday
Clear Brown Soup with Vermicelli
Roast Umb Currant Jelly
Brown Sweet Potatoes Spinach
lettuce, Apple and Date Sulud
pineapple Sponge
Coffee
- Monday
Carrot Puree
Sliced Lamb In Casserole with Vegetables
Mashed Potato Crust
Lettuce Heart Salad, cheese Dressing;
Banana Dessert
Cnff.
of the dressmakers to make the i-klrt
of silk and the bodice of chiffon. nt
or lace; but almost Invariably the skirt
material is csrrliyl up Into tho wslst
In such manner as to exprcsa conti
nuity of line.
Dinner liown llnralea Plan.
An excellent example of this is a
dinner gown for Lenten wear recently
noted at an Important opening. Thu
skirt of this costume was of black and
white faille classlque In Inch-wide
stripes, but the silk wan pleated to
br!nc the black stripes outermost and
all tho pleats were stitched down to
form a black skirl yoke over the hips.
Above this was a black girdle of satin
and above the girdle mas an exquisitely
diaphanous bodice of Chantllly over
black tulle, with long sleeves of the
black Chantllly to the wrist. Between
the Chantllly and the tulle. Just above
the black satin girdle, pointed sections
of the striped faille, picot finished at
the edge, were carried up Into tha
bodice, and the sections rose highest
each side of the center back. There
seemed no possible manner of getting
into and out of this complicated lace
and tulle bodice, but the dressmakers
hide away snap fasteners everywhere
so cleverly now that one might b
poured Into one's frock for all tho vis
ible hint of an opening there Is.
Of course, the new short frocks de
mand utmost prettiness In boots, and
still most highly favored Is Ihe biM
toned boot with lightweight sola, high,
curved heel and a top of tan or gray
cloth, giving the gaiter effect.
nrsTi.Ess nrsTKii nRi:.T aid
Every Housewife Who Has Used
Convenience Cannot He Without It.
Every housewife who has used a
dusticss duster declares that she can
not do without It Other housekeepers
envy them their ease In dusting, de
clare that they are going to hava some
of these convenient bits of cheesecloth,
but never get around to have them be
cause they do not know how to make
them.
One woman gives this plan to fol
low: Buy black cheesecloth of any
quality it matters little whether one
uses the better or the cheapest. Cut It
in squares and hem. It takes but a
moment to run the hem up on the ma
chine, and hemmed dusters are a Joy
to the neat housekeeper. Pip them In
about a pint of gasoline and let them
dry.
Suspicion In a Motive.
Exchange.
We are also disposed to suspect the
man who talks a great aeal aoout
rfnciple.
H! NOT CALOMEL. OIL OR SALTS,
TAKE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS"
Delicious "Fruit Laxative'
Cleanses Stomach, Liver
and Bowels.
A harmless cure for sick headache.
biliousness, sour stomach, constipation,
indigestion, coated tongue, eallowness
take "California Syrup of Figs." Kor
the cause of all such misery comes
from a torpid liver and sluggish bowels.
A tablespoonf ul tonight means all
constipation poison, wsste matter, fer
menting food and sour bile gently
moved out of your system by morning,
without griping. Please don't think of
"California Syrup of l' lgs" aa a physic.
Don't think you are drugging yourself
or your children, because this delicious
fruit laxative cannot causa injury.
Kven the most delicate child can take
it as safely aa a robust man. It Is the
most harmless, effective stomach, liver
and bowel cleanser, regulator and tonic
ever devised.
Your only difficulty may bo In get
ting the genuine, so ask your druggist
for a ro-cent bottlo of "California
Syrup of Figs." then see that It Is
made by the "California Fir Syrup
Company. This city has msny counter-
felt "fig syrups, so watcn out. act.