The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, November 22, 1914, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 62

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    6
TTTE SUNDAY OREGOTfTATf. POTfTLAND. XOVE3IBER 22, 1914.
VELVET IS FAVORITE OF DEBUTANTE
FOR MATINEE WEAR AND PROMENADE
Severely Plain Tailored Suits of Stroller or English Type of Dark Green Gabardine With Coachman's Coat
'Adorn Smarter Young Women During Morning Honrs.
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VRLVET, once the traditional right
of the dowager. Is now claimed
by the debutante, and this year
velvet Is the fabric of fabrics Tor formal
afternoon wear. The debutante's vel
vet tailleur for retaurant lunching,
for the matinee and for promenading
on the avenue has special lines of
youthfulness and charm. This attrac
tive little velvet suit of tete de negre
velvet shows the long-tailed coat, col
lared with skunk and a skirt cut with
decided fullness around the feet,
though it Is short enough to show a
fetching walking boot with buttoned
top of fawn cloth.
Smart young women are dressing for
the morning hours in severely plain
tailored suits of the stroller or English
type. This model is of dark green-gabardine
with the new coachman's coat
and a short skirt, buttoned from waist
to hem, cut extremely short. Beneath
It shows buttoned walking boots of
tan calf with spats made to order to
match the gabardine suit. Mannish
gloves, the extremely simple, severe
hat and a starched linen collar carry
out the trig, tailored idea of the cos
tume. At the afternoon dancing sessions In
SOCIETY AND SHOPS CATER THIS
WINTER TO FASHIONABLE BELLES
Girlish Dash and Charm Central Idea of All Suit Designs Jewelry, Except Ring or Two and Necklace of
Pearls, May Not Be Worn Simple Lines Required.
NEW YORK, Nov. 21 (Special.)
December in New Tork Is conse
crated to service for the debu
tante. All the Important debuts occur
In this month and fashionable hostesses
defer more important entertainments
to "give the debutantes a right good
time." And a right good time verily
they have, for dinner-dances, matinee
theater ' parties, luncheons and other
festivities crowd the happy weeks and
the little debutante is kept in a con
stant whirl of ecstatic excitement. Very
often by Christmas she is so physical
ly and mentally exhausted that she
has to be taken to Pinehurst or to Ber
muda to rest up and be put in fresh
tfim for the remainder of the Winter.
After Christmas she Is supposed to be
well launched and takes her place In
society ae an established belle. Very
often her engagement la announced at
the end of her first brilliant season
and another Winter sees her In the
ranks of the young married women.
The debutante's wardrobe for this
first flutter in society is a very im
portant matter to herself and to her
mother, the latter realizing how great
ly correct yet striking costumes will
help In the coming campaign. The
debutante, having been kept for years
Jn simple schoolgirl raiment Is usually
fairly Intoxicated with the delight of
r
the smart restaurants, the well-dressed
young women wear frocks of dark
color and conventional tailored style
rather than the fluffy frocks that are
considered correct for at home or even
ing wear. This model for a debutante
is of fine French serge and black satin.
The accordion pleated skirt, over a pet
ticoat of satin, buttons part way down
with blue and gold outtons, and the
draped bodice has a smart waistcoat
with twin points at the front. But
toned dancing boots and a tailored tur
ban accompany the frock.
Half a dozen dancing frocks will be
none too many to start the Winter
with, if the debutante belongs to a
fashionable set. This piquant frock is
one of several dainty evening frocks
lust completed for a debutante of De
cember. Coral and bronze velvet forms
skirt and draped bodice, the bodice
having an under-bodice of white tulle.
The full tunio of white tulle Is set on
under a gorgeous girdle made of
pearl beads with tassels of bronze
crystal and pale coral beads. Gold
satin slippers and stockings of natural
silk complete a. pretty dancing cos
tume. Blender, girlish figured women can
wear extreme blouses that would be
possessing dozens and dozens of beau
tiful, grown-up frocks, hats and wraps
to say nothing of negligees and
strong hand over her is necessary to
keep her clothes aspirations within the
bounds of suitability and conventional
correctness.
Youthful Effects Aimed At.
Fashionable debutantes are permitted
no Jewels, except a ring or two, and
perhaps a dainty brooch. They may
wear a string of pearls but elaborate
diamond collars. corBage pins, tiaras
and dangling ear-rings are for mar
ried women, or for unmarried girls
who have left first youth behind and
are in their third or fourth season.
This is quite as it should be for youth
is a charm which no amount of superb
dressing or bejewelling can Improve;
and youth is the thing which the de
butante's mamma and her modiste seek
to emphasize In all her new belongings.
Her afternoon tailleur may be of vel
vet which now Is worn by all ages of
women but its cut and its style will
be very different from the cut and the
style of an older woman's tailleur. The
debutante can wear very dashing
things, and dash combined with sim
plicity of line Is c the result aimed at.
For a debutante of December has just
been completed a fur-trimmed velvet
suit for Winter afternoon wear. The
skirt, set smoothly over the hips in a
t - - v ' -
trying; on older women, and the debu
tante needs plenty of blouses, for . she
Is harder on her clothes than her less
exuberant mamma. Here is a blouse
of bright orange pussy willow silk,
softened by a veiling of black butter
fly marquisette. The collar of tucked
orange satin crosses and is snap-buttoned
in Iplace, the jet buttons making
an effective trimming. Sheer collar and
cuffs are of white mousseline.
deep yoke, has a ripple lower part
which flares to four-yard width at the
edge where a band of skunk adds rich
ness to the dark erreen of the velvet.
This skirt is very short as are all the
debutante s Winter costumes this sea
son and below It will be evident
smart little boots of patent leather with
buttoned gaiter tops of fawn-colored
cloth. With these stockings of natural
silk will be the correct thing. The
coat of. this pretty suit has a low-set
oelt of the velvet and below the belt.
at the back, a square coat tall bordered
with skunk, falls to the knees. At the
front, the coat buttons high to the
throat where there is a close collarette
of skunk and skunk bands edge the
long coat sleeves. The coat buttons
are covered with the velvet and though
they are flanked by hand-worked but
tonholes snap-fasteners beneath hold
the the fronts together as is usual this
season. With this charming green
velvet promenade and matinee cos
tume, the debutante will wear a large
green velvet sailor hat. trimmed with
a band of the skunk.
Suits Have Girlish Dauab and Charm.
Another tailored suit for the same
debutante Is In the new stroller style,
which is rather mannish In suggestion
and well suited, in its saucy dash, to
youthful wearers. This suit Is of
I green gabardine green, you see, is Ojt
the helghth of the fashion and the
coat is a redingote affair, called the
"coachman's coat" because of its severe
lines, deep collar and huge buttons. Its
lower edge falls over a simply cut but
slightly rippled skirt, which reveals
walking boots of dull calf with but
toned tops of gray cloth. . '
With her stroller suit the debutante
wears a fur toque with a smart gilt
spangled cockade, or a rather severe
turban perched at one side of her head.
Hat crowns are small now and to ac
commodate them the hair is wound
closely against the head so that the ef.
feet is very small and dainty, especially
when a flaring collar stands out below
the chin and at the back. Youth can
wear outrageous collar effects which
would be trying to older women.
Dancing Frocka a Moat Important Item.
At least six dancing frocks for the
evening, and almost as many more for
the afternoon will be required to see
the fashionable debutante through her
first season. These frocks, which will
be protected out of doors under a
smart, fur-trimmed coat of broadcloth
or zlbeline or a handsome fur coat of
Hudson seal or caracul, are this Winter
of silken fabrics combined with chiffon,
butterfly marquisette and velvet. Satin
Is the prerogative of youth now. as
well as velvet, and the debutante may
also wear faille if she chooses. A lovely
dinner-dance frock of corn - colored
faille classique has Just been sent home
for a December debutante. Its tunic is
of corn-colored chiffon bordered with
Jet another prerogative of youth these
days and a bodice made of Jet strings
Is laid over a bodice of the pale yellow
chiffon. Another pretty dinner-dance
frock is of flowered daphne silk pale
pink poinsettias on a pale turquoise
with a bodice of white lace and a broad
sash of pale blue satin.
Simpler frocks for morning wear are
In the trotter style and are of French
serge, braid bound at the edges with
sleeves and skirt of black satin, and of
mohair and worsted mixture with
sleeves, girdle and waistcoat of Scotch
plaid taffeta. Half a dozen blouses of
pussywillow shirting and some sepa
rate skirts in the new ripple lines pro
vide for early morning hours at home.
Though she may not wear many jew
els the debutante's furs may represent
thousands of dollars. Besides her ermine-trimmed
evening wrap, she must
have an afternoon carriage or limou
sine wrap of fur or of velvet, fur
trimmed; and an automobile coat with
fur collar and perhaps fur lining also.
Street furs will include a dark set of
skunk or pointed fox, and lighter set
of fitch and chinchilla squirrel.
Blouse of Last Season Can
Give Service Again.
Easy Ways Are Told for Home
Dnunaker to Remodel WaUst so
It Will Be Fashionable Again.
IF YOU havo on hand a last season's
' blouse that is only out of styt. not
really worn, it may be made to do duty
this year by a little refurbishing. If It
Is a chiffon blouse and the sleeves are
short, use the chiffon of front and back
sections to lengthen the sleeves, at
taching the extra length Just above the
elbow, and havethe seams hemstitched.
Then cover the body of the blouse with
a sleevelasg jumper of pussy willow
silk, which may be cut In two sections
and snap-fastened at one shoulder
under one of the coquettish shoulder
roses now so fashionable. If you make
a new lining for your chiffon blouse,
an entirely new color combination may
be worked out. and of course the taf
feta Jumper will harmonize with the
coloring and not only with the shade
of the chiffon. For Instance, If your
blue chiffon blouse was worn last year
over a white silk lining, drop it this
year over green and match the blended
colorings in a rich shade of peacock
pussy willow silk.
If your last season blouse Is of white
lace and net, dip it Into water in which
a teaspoonful of powdered ochre has
been dissolved. This will give the ma
terial a creamy tan tone, more fash
ionable just now than clear white. Drop
the creamy white lace blouse over a
lining of flesh pink daphne silk and
wear it with the new tailored suit of
brown broadcloth or corduroy. Be sure
to buy also a pair of the natural silk
stockings which are in the creamy tan
shade that is smart with brown cos
tumes, with all costumes In fact, for
these stockings are the fad.
If the last year's blouse was of pussy
willow silk or of crepe de chine, match
it if you can, and if not, match its
shade in some other silk. Pussy willow
is used with a crepe de chine or with
crinkled crepe. Faille classique, a new
ribbed silk, may be used In combina
tion with any of the other three. Cut
out the old sleeves and set in new ones
of the contrasting silk. Make, also, a
wide girdle and, below It, pointed
basque fronts of the new silk. The last
year's waist probably has a aurpllced.
crossed front that opens in a deep V,
whether or not there is a flare collar at
the back. Rip off the collar and edge
neck and fronts with a straight, folded
over band," exactly as you'd finish the
neck and fronts of a kimono. This fin
ish is used on some of the smartest
blouses and Is easy for the home dress
maker to make. A snap fastener at the
Bare Nectc Shows la T.
bustline should hold the fronts trimly,
and another snap fastener will hold the
lapped girdle.
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FRUIT LAXATIVE FOR MAMMA, DAD,
BABY, "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS"
Better Than Calomel, Oil xr Salts
for Liver, Bowels and
Stomach.
Mother, daddy and the children can
always keep feeling fine by taking
this delicious fruit laxative as occa
sion demands. Nothing else cleanses
the stomach, liver and bowels so thor
oughly without griping.
You take a little at night and in the
morning all the foul, constipated
waste, , sour bile and fermenting food,
delayed in the bowels, gently moves
out of the system. When you awaken
all headache, indigestion, sourness,
r..
WOMEN WHO FIGURE IN EVENTS OF
NOTE POSE FOR PRESS CAMERA MEN
New Queen of Roumania May Have Happiness Marred by War Pa jama Girl Becomes Bride of Banker's Son.
- Mrs. Charles S. Whitman Is First Lady of New York State.
t sv
THE happiness of the new queen of
Koumanla may be, and probably
has been marred by the Euro
pean war even before she is crowned.
Roumania has been facing the peril
dally ofbelng drawn Into the war. The
new queen is said to be the most beau
tiful woman of the royalty in Europe.
Before her marriage in 1893 to Fer
dinand, Crown Prince of Roumania, she
was Princess Marie Alexandra Vic
toria, daughter of --the Duke of Edin
burgh, son of the late Queen Victoria
of Great Britain. She was 18 years
old at the time of her wedding and la
now the mother of five children, two
sons and three daughters. Only re
cently the aged King Charles died and
his son, Ferdinand, succeeded him.
Much pressure is being brought to bear
on the new king to send 400.000 troops
to help decide the campaign in Qalicia
and Poland.
On October 24, at St. Martin's Pauline
Chase, the "Pink Pajama Girt" who
had been reported engaged no less than
ulna tlm. (n am monv fHff...nt
sons. Including Vincent Astor and
Graham White, chief af the British
Aviation Corps, became Mrs. Aleo V.
Drummond. A photograph was taken
as she and Mr. Drummond were leaving
the church after the ceremony. The
groom is prominent In the British Yeo
manry and Is the son of George Drum
mond, head of Druramond's Bank of
London. A few hours after the cere
mony,' Mr. Drummond started for
France with the West Kent Yeomanry.
The bride Is a daughter of Dr. and Mrs.
E. B. Bliss, of Washington,. D. C, and
her maiden name was Pauline Bliss.
Mrs. Charles S. Whitman sat In a box
at the Metropolitan Opera House
watching Pavlowa dance while the re-
Impression of Frock Depends
Much on Neckwear. '
Well-Arransred Colffnre Helps Drtai
to Pass Without Criticism, Even
If It Is Last VY ear's.
THE woman,, who lunches at the
restaurants a great deal is fas
tidiously particular about hsr
headgear and her neckwear, for if these
two items of her costume are im
peccable her frock will pass without
criticism, even If It is a last-season
affair. By the same token, the woman
who attends the matinee Is exquisitely
careful to havo her coiffure -well ar
ranged and her collar the latest thing.
The collar and cuff set illustrated is
the last word in "little fixings," and.
though these sets are. quite expensive
for the trifles they are. In the shops,
almost any girl should be able to con
trive a set for herself at modest cost.
A doubled band of white net forms the
tall collar and the straight band of
the cuff. The ends of the doubled band
ar turned in to make a neat finish,
and two snap fasteners will hold the
collar together under the lap.
The cuff is fashioned in the same
manner. Box-plaited net frills edge
both collar and cuff, and the seam by
which the frill Is attached to the net
foul taste, bad breath, fever and diz
ziness is gone; your stomach Is sweet,
liver and bowels clean, and you feel
grand."
"California Syrup of Figs" Is a fam
ily laative. Everyone from grandpa
to baby can safely take it and no one
is ever disappointed in its pleasant
action. Millions of mothers know that
it is the ideal laxative to give cross,
sick, feverish children. But get the
genuine. Ask your druggist for a 60
cent bottle of "California Syrup of
Figs," which has directions for babies,
children of all ages and for grown-ups
on each bottle. Refuse with contempt
the cheaper Fig Syrups and counter
felts. See that it bears the name
"California Fig Syrup Company.": Adv.
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ports from the election in New York
state were coming In.' She was not
anxious about the result, for before the
performance had begun it was reason
ably sure that her husband had
been elected Governor of New York
and the question in doUbt was only
one of plurality. The coming social
arbiter of Albany was Olive Hitchcock.
Everyone In New York is speculating
on Mr. Whitman's chance to be made
Republican candidate for the Presi
dency in 1916 and that might make Mrs.
Whitman as "first lady" at Washing
ton. Among the prominent figures at the
loading of the ship of Christmas cheer
for the war zone, was Mrs. F. II. Law
ton, wife of Major Lawton. of the
Quartermaster's Department Of the
strip Is hidden under the narrow band
of velvet ribbon. A second band at
the opposite edge balances the trim
ming. The collar, as shown with this blouse
of brown pussy willow taffeta. Is worn
around the throat, though the bare
neck ehows in the V of the open
blouse. Smart also is the brown velvet
I
CAME from Russia Gor
don brought me here before
the war broke out and now
I m an American
a popular one at that.
I am Russian Fitch.
My fur is soft as
V
Scart of N atanl
RoMUa Fitch.
LT-S0
Mali . SM.00
In cheaper quality
akin. Scarts 9.00
Mod . tW-0
Gordon & Ferguson,
frlahexs of GOUT) OU TURX. Fun. CVr- T5 at
LAW 0- Forty ITeavr O X- JttAJjJjt
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Army, who had charge of the task.
There was a corps of volunteer women
working under Major Lawton, but Mrs.
Lawton was really in charge of them,
and her advice was helpful In assort
ing the cargo. There were also 75
soldiers and 60 sailors who helped to
load the ship.
Mrs. Paul D. Cravath, the wife of
the well-known New York lawyer. Is
a leading member of the Long Island
set and a constant attendant at the
hunt and race meets there. She Is the
owner of many fine horses which she
exhibits at the fashionable horse hows.
She was Agnes Huntington before her
marriage. '
sailor, trimmed with civet fur and
birds' heads an odd but decidedly
smart combination.
Gossip and Fear of It.
Exchange.
Gossip is bad. but fear of it keeps
some men on the straight and narrow.
if
silk and wonderfully good
looking
And now it is made up
into Muffs and Scarfs by the
Gordon fur-people who know
how to add the last touch of
style to a fur.
I am guaranteed to be
what they say I am, like all
Gordon Furs under the
GORDON
Pure Fur Law
Look for the man down
town who sells Gordon
Furs he is a mighty good
man to know. For he sells
quality merchandise.